# Awlgrip Vs Interlux Perfection



## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Does anyone have experience with the difference between Awlgrip and Interlux Perfection. Both products are owned by the same company. Would be interested in how hard each is to apply (roll and Tip) and how long each last as far as abrasion and UV.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

We've used Awlgrip, but sprayed with HVLP gear. OK/amateur results. (Far from perfect but perfect from afar)

I think they are similar in properties but Perfection is said to be more 'repairable' in the event of dings and scratches. It may also be more suitable for roll and tipping, though I think both offer reducers geared towards different methods.

Alexseal is another similar product that gets good reviews.. http://www.alexseal.com/exterior/topcoats


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

We used Alexseal. Very happy with it. Had it professionally applied, but supposed to be easier to apply than Awlgrip.

Its value proposition is that it's as durable as Awlgrip, but repairable, as the product doesn't float a clear coat to the surface. It's just as shiny, however. We tested that reparability this past summer. We had another boat impact us, while we were asleep on a mooring at 4am. The yard was able to feather in a repaint down several feet of both side of the bow. Undetectable. 

Alexseal was invented by the original inventor of Awlgrip, after his non-compete expired after selling Awlgrip. I believe he even makes it in Awlgrips original factory.

Ironically, many of the original ingredients he formulated in Awlgrip are no longer available. Awlgrip is now arguably a bastardization of it's original formula.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> We used Alexseal. Very happy with it. Had it professionally applied, but supposed to be easier to apply than Awlgrip.
> 
> Its value proposition is that it's as durable as Awlgrip, but repairable, as the product doesn't float a clear coat to the surface. It's just as shiny, however. We tested that reparability this past summer. We had another boat impact us, while we were asleep on a mooring at 4am. The yard was able to feather in a repaint down several feet of both side of the bow. Undetectable.
> 
> ...


Interesting. This whole painting thing has got me totally confused. One problem I am not sure if the paint on my hull top side is two part or one part. I did some of the test as described by interlux perfection, Awlgrip, and basically what Alexseal describes. The two part test of the existing paint failed according to Interlux perfection, and Awlgrip, but passed based on Alexseal. What happens is the existing paint gets slightly soft when applying a solvent soaked rag and then covering for 1-24 hours based on the test. The existing paint does not peel or bubble after the test, and hardens up after the rag is removed, so I am thinking it is two part. I tried to sand it all off over the weekend, but the paint is extremely hard- with a 6 inch industrial ROSander in 3 hours I only removed 2 feet square and this was using 60 grit paper- so I ended up just sanding the surface to roughen the paint using 180 grit as a prep for the primer.

I did look up the link to Alexseal and found the rep here in Hawaii is Pacific Diversified Coatings- I have delt with them in the past and they are excellent. I spoke to them about the painting and they are very helpful. I will look into this more- they rep both Alexseal and Awlgrip.
Thanks All


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

If I was going to roll and tip I would definitely choose Perfection. Well done it is as good as a sprayed finish. I have even seen some darker colors applied roll and tip with an excellent outcome.


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## Barquito (Dec 5, 2007)

> I tried to sand it all off over the weekend, but the paint is extremely hard- with a 6 inch industrial ROSander in 3 hours I only removed 2 feet square and this was using 60 grit paper- so I ended up just sanding the surface to roughen the paint using 180 grit as a prep for the primer.


Three hours on a couple square feet with 60# should have gone through the paint, gel coat, and maybe a few layers of glass. If you find that you do NEED to remove the old paint, it may actually be faster (but, still take a very long time) to scrape it off. I have only used Perfection. I chose Perfection partly because it was my impression that it was more DIY friendly.


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## robert sailor (Jun 22, 2015)

Awl craft by Awl grip is closer to perfection.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Barquito said:


> Three hours on a couple square feet with 60# should have gone through the paint, gel coat, and maybe a few layers of glass. If you find that you do NEED to remove the old paint, it may actually be faster (but, still take a very long time) to scrape it off. I have only used Perfection. I chose Perfection partly because it was my impression that it was more DIY friendly.


I did try scraping. Not really effective as the paint was so hard, when I did break through the paint, I would also end of gauging the gelcoat. Sanding did best as I could control the depth of the paint removal.

I also tried to soften the paint with the perfection thinner, which seemed like a strong solvent. the paint would soften some, but not to the point where it could be scraped easily, and if you tried sanding the soften paint, it would just gum up the paper.

I have actually never seen a paint this hard, it is very thin and no primer- looks to have been sprayed directly to the gel coat. I think it was applied in PNG Papua New Guinea about 8 years ago. The only problem with the paint is that it was red and the sun has faded it to pink. Even where I had the boat tied tight to the pier with fenders, and 50 foot waves breaking just outside the breakwater for days, the paint did not wear through.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

robert sailor said:


> Awl craft by Awl grip is closer to perfection.


That is what the Interlux/Awlgrip manufacture told me also.


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## bob77903 (Nov 10, 2008)

I had my topsides painted by a pro 3 months ago. I used Awlcraft 2000 by Awlgrip. I asked the painter about Awlcraft or Awlgrip, and he said he always uses Awlcraft unless the customer insists on Awlgrip. Said most pro's use Awlcraft. Awlcraft can be spot painted for repairs, and polished and waxed. Can't do that with Awlgrip.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Awlgrip is an LP paint that is very durable, but can't be compounded down to a fresh layer of color, since it has a clear surface. Awlcraft is an acrylic paint that is much softer, more susceptible to chafe or scratching, but much easier to compound or repair. I had Awlcraft at one time and the fenders rubbed it dull in those spots.

Alexseal is a durable LP paint that can be repaired. It was an easy decision for us, in the end.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Saw and spoke with the folks at Hawaii Pacific Diversified. Very knowledgeable. They sell interlux, awlgrip, and Alexseal. Took a boat part with the hull paint on it. They think it was single part paint. But their experience once a paint gets to be as old as mine, all the liquids in the paint have evaporated off, so even though it is one part, it is ok to apply a two part- just 180 grit the surface and prime well with a two part primer and top coat with a two part LP. I will probably go with Awlgrip. They say they paint a boat with the product it left the construction boat yard with to maintain compatibility , weather that be Awlgrip or Alexseal.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

casey1999 said:


> Saw and spoke with the folks at Hawaii Pacific Diversified. Very knowledgeable. They sell interlux, awlgrip, and Alexseal. Took a boat part with the hull paint on it. They think it was single part paint. But their experience once a paint gets to be as old as mine, all the liquids in the paint have evaporated off, so even though it is one part, it is ok to apply a two part- just 180 grit the surface and prime well with a two part primer and top coat with a two part LP. I will probably go with Awlgrip. They say they paint a boat with the product it left the construction boat yard with to maintain compatibility , weather that be Awlgrip or Alexseal.


If I'm following you, they are saying that Awlgrip over Awlcraft/unknown acrylic is more compatible than Alexseal over Awlcraft/unknown acrylic? Awlgrip is a fine product, with limitation stated above, but that compatibility argument sounds odd.

I'm sure primer will stick to a sanded one part acrylic. However, your brand new (expensive) paint job is only going to be as good as your original paint's adhesion to your hull over time.

Personally, I would take off what's there now, especially if you don't really know what it is. Whether you're painting your house or your boat, quality and longevity are directly correlated to preparation.

Are you going a dark color or light? I've never seen a repaint that didn't require some fill and fairing, especially if using a dark color. I really don't think you can fill over top of paint.

Good luck. A nice boat paint job always feel great.


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## SV Siren (Mar 8, 2013)

With all the talk about Awlcraft, I would like to mention that it cannot be rolled and tipped, it must be sprayed as it flashes too fast for it to level out before drying. I would love to use the stuff on my own boat, but I don't have a sprayer, and no experience with spraying for that matter. Being able to make repairs is part of the appeal of certain paints... I will be painting this summer so this thread is good timing for me as well.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

Does anyone know who makes TotalBoat Wet Edge from Jamestown? Has anyone here used it and what was there experience. They have lots of videos of it being roll and tipped, and that is going to be what I am doing this spring. Some of the results in the videos look good. I am thinking ease of application and repair ability are more important to me than finial finish or longevity. (I am sure I will regret the longevity in 10 years but don't think I will own the boat that long)


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> If I'm following you, they are saying that Awlgrip over Awlcraft/unknown acrylic is more compatible than Alexseal over Awlcraft/unknown acrylic? Awlgrip is a fine product, with limitation stated above, but that compatibility argument sounds odd.
> 
> I'm sure primer will stick to a sanded one part acrylic. However, your brand new (expensive) paint job is only going to be as good as your original paint's adhesion to your hull over time.
> 
> ...


1. If I'm following you, they are saying that Awlgrip over Awlcraft/unknown acrylic is more compatible than Alexseal over Awlcraft/unknown acrylic? Awlgrip is a fine product, with limitation stated above, but that compatibility argument sounds odd.

-They are not say Awlgrip will not work over Alexseal or Alexseal will not work over Awlgrip. They just like to stick with the original spec for the boat. Then again there is always the chance the two different brands are not compatible, so why chance it when the color offers by Alexseal and Awlgrip are about the same? Also they were not talking Awlcraft, and as you point out is an acrylic- I think different type paint than Awlgrip or Alexseal.

2. I'm sure primer will stick to a sanded one part acrylic. However, your brand new (expensive) paint job is only going to be as good as your original paint's adhesion to your hull over time. Personally, I would take off what's there now, especially if you don't really know what it is. Whether you're painting your house or your boat, quality and longevity are directly correlated to preparation.

- agree. However to take off the existing paint would take me about 375 hours. As I pointed out the existing paint is adhered to the hull very well- takes me 1.5 hours to sand off 1 foot square using 60 grit paper in an industrial RO sander. So the only thing I was concerned about is the new paint lifting the old during painting due to the solvents in the wet and curing paint- my discussion with the paint supplier alleviated that concern.

3. Are you going a dark color or light? I've never seen a repaint that didn't require some fill and fairing, especially if using a dark color. I really don't think you can fill over top of paint.

- New paint will be whisper grey or similar. I had very few defects in the hull. The ones I had I sanded down to gel coat/ glass and used west system epoxy to fill and fair. These areas, along with the entire hull will get two coats of grey two part primer, then two coats of two part top coat.


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## appick (Jan 20, 2014)

We went with Perfection as it had better instructions on roll and tipping. We ended up roll and rolling instead as it turned out better. Just wet you roller wet out your area then go back over slowly with the same roller and knock down any large stipple. Then leave it alone and watch it flow to a mirror like finish. It must be painted in the shade as it will flash way to fast in even indirect sunlight. Get some tarps and tarp off from the deck to give you a nice shade shelter, it'll also help keep dust and other junk out of the finish.


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## appick (Jan 20, 2014)

I agree with the filling and fairing, I did the whole hull on my boat as the early 60's mold it was taken from was quite lumpy so to speak. My shoulders still hurt thinking about longboarding that hull again. Also yes dark colors show imperfections more than light colors. You can get away with the cheap chemical resistant foam bullet rollers from the hardware store. They will last about 20min a piece and will start to expand and get puffy when they are starting to let go. They give you plenty of notice before they start to fall apart. 2 part primer is a must too. I ended up doing 4 coats of primer and 7 of topcoat. A little overboard but I kept wet-sanding between each coat to get the surface baby butt smooth. It took me a couple of times with the topcoat to figure out that rolling and tipping just wasn't working for me. I tried every brush that cost between $15-50 and I wasn't satisfied with how any of them flowed. It wasn't until I rolled and rolled that I was happy. Good luck, have fun and just keep thinking about all the heads your boat will be turning when you're done! I know mine sure did.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

One caution I learned on our project.. if you're washing/rinsing the sanding dust off when fairing don't rely on the water film to try to determine if you've got the job done. It's way too thick and hides the true surface. And palm sanders just lead to a moonscape esp if you're impatient. Unfortunately long boarding is the laborious but effective way to go, esp for dark colours...


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Casey, I'm still confused. (Not hard to do)

I thought you said the current paint is one part and you're going to paint two part over it. If the paint guy is saying to use what was originally specified for the boat and that's two part Awlgrip, where did the one part come from?

I paid a pro to sand my hull down and it certainly didn't take that kind of time. If that's the sole reason you're skipping it, you may want to find out how the pros do it. Mine was definitely sanded, like you were attempting.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> Casey, I'm still confused. (Not hard to do)
> 
> I thought you said the current paint is one part and you're going to paint two part over it. If the paint guy is saying to use what was originally specified for the boat and that's two part Awlgrip, where did the one part come from?
> 
> I paid a pro to sand my hull down and it certainly didn't take that kind of time. If that's the sole reason you're skipping it, you may want to find out how the pros do it. Mine was definitely sanded, like you were attempting.


My boat originally was a white gel coat. Then a Polish girl decided she wanted to sail around the world alone and being Polish, and Red and White being the color of the Polish Flag, it would then be nice to sail a red and white boat. Therefore the hull was painted red in Papua New Guinea as far as I know. The paint supplier thinks one part was used based on a solvent test done on the existing paint.

natasza cabin - Bing video

Now I could use a one part paint, but my experience with using some one part on the deck 4 years ago is that it just does not hold up well to UV and abrasion. Although the existing red hull paint on the boat has held up extremely well (only problem has been UV fading of the red color to almost a pink). I am thinking the red may still be a two part paint- the painting was done in a commercial ship yard. So the thought is to paint over the single part paint with a two part. When the painter was talking about staying with the OEM paint, he was talking about very high end boats that maybe get painted a lot more often than our workhorse type sailboats. In that case, where all the solvents may not have evaporated out of the paint, sticking with the OEM paint might be wise- the paints are most probably compatible, but when doing a multi $100k paint job, why take the risk.

As far as removing all the old paint, the thought is if it is well adhered, and it will bond to the new paint, then no reason to remove it. By removing the existing hull paint, at least some of the existing gel coat will also get removed- which is not a good thing.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

I thought the 'recoat compatability' issue was about the solvents in two part paint dissolving the old coating after application.. resulting in both coming away (expensive paint remover in a way ) or at least orange peeling or being otherwise ugly. I think I'd want to try a test patch...


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Faster said:


> I thought the 'recoat compatability' issue was about the solvents in two part paint dissolving the old coating after application.. resulting in both coming away (expensive paint remover in a way ) or at least orange peeling or being otherwise ugly. I think I'd want to try a test patch...


Agree- that was covered in my Post #4:

Interesting. This whole painting thing has got me totally confused. One problem I am not sure if the paint on my hull top side is two part or one part. I did some of the test as described by interlux perfection, Awlgrip, and basically what Alexseal describes. The two part test of the existing paint failed according to Interlux perfection, and Awlgrip, but passed based on Alexseal. What happens is the existing paint gets slightly soft when applying a solvent soaked rag and then covering for 1-24 hours based on the test. The existing paint does not peel or bubble after the test, and hardens up after the rag is removed, so I am thinking it is two part. I tried to sand it all off over the weekend, but the paint is extremely hard- with a 6 inch industrial ROSander in 3 hours I only removed 2 feet square and this was using 60 grit paper- so I ended up just sanding the surface to roughen the paint using 180 grit as a prep for the primer.

And when I went to the local paint supplier, he rubbed some solvent on a boat part that had the red paint on it. The red paint was not effected- not even softened so he said good to just paint over with a two part LP paint.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

The way I was taught to test was to apply a rag soaked in acetone to the surface. If you removed color, it's one part, if not than it was LP. 

I'm as confused as ever as to what the original manufacturer specified, if it was delivered with white gelcoat. But it doesn't matter, I really don't think that is a factor anyway. 

Seems like your concern is compatibility. There really is only one sure remedy. Take the existing paint off. The time it took you to test is not reasonable, nor should be expected. Something was wrong with your sander, paper or technique. I know I could easily get through two square feet of paint in minutes, not hours. It's not that thick. 

Whatever you choose to do, I wish you well with it.


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## drakeParagon (Dec 8, 2011)

Landcruiser said:


> With all the talk about Awlcraft, I would like to mention that it cannot be rolled and tipped, it must be sprayed as it flashes too fast for it to level out before drying. I would love to use the stuff on my own boat, but I don't have a sprayer, and no experience with spraying for that matter. Being able to make repairs is part of the appeal of certain paints... I will be painting this summer so this thread is good timing for me as well.


The directions say that you're not supposed to roll and tip Awlcraft, but I did and am very happy with the results. I painted my topsides and my aluminum mast and spreaders on my Westsail 42 with Awlcraft 2000 Oyster White. Also painted the bootstripe with Awlcraft 2000. Yes, if you look very closely you can see that it wasn't sprayed, but it's very shiny and I think it's beautiful. It did take a lot of care to apply - very quickly rolling and tipping very small sections at a time, and only using a very good quality brush. What I like is that I can repaint/repair it myself anywhere where the weather is warm and dry enough. I made a video about painting the mast...


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## SV Siren (Mar 8, 2013)

Drake, good to hear that you did paint with Awlcraft......I had just spoken to the Awlgrip sales rep at the Chicago Strictly Sail show and they told me what I had relayed. Did you do anything to slow the flashpoint on it to allow it to have more time to level out?? I would love to roll and tip it, and come out mirror finish, as I will be painting this summer.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Drake, I think there are few things that dress up a sailboat more than a painted mast. They're beautiful. I've resisted only to avoid the inevitable maintenance. 

How did you strip your mast? (I didn't re-watch the vid, but recall it from years back) Did it take you three hours to sand off 2 sqft, as the OP experienced?


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## drakeParagon (Dec 8, 2011)

Landcruiser said:


> Drake, good to hear that you did paint with Awlcraft......I had just spoken to the Awlgrip sales rep at the Chicago Strictly Sail show and they told me what I had relayed. Did you do anything to slow the flashpoint on it to allow it to have more time to level out?? I would love to roll and tip it, and come out mirror finish, as I will be painting this summer.


It comes out really shiny, and I think it looks really beautiful, but if you look closely you can tell that it's not sprayed. When I painted my topsides I used a small 6 inches wide roller and a Purdy brand brush. I rolled a column from top to bottom about 2 feet long, and then tipped immediately afterwards, then rolled a continuation of the column to the bottom and so on. Then I would roll an adjacent column to the right and so on from bow to stern. The first coat looks horrible. You need 2-3 coats. You also need a long hot windless sunny day without bugs that will land on the paint. If you paint too late in the day then the finish gets dull. I also sanded the primer down super smooth with 200 grit sandpaper with a Dewalt palm sander or by hand.

It has been many years since I painted the mast. Since then we've sailed up the US east coast from North Carolina to Boston, to Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Greenland, Iceland, Faroe, Scotland and Ireland, and the hull has been through a lot of scrapes to say the least. I'm looking forward to someday lightly sanding the topsides and repainting with Awlcraft 2000 again. I'm glad that I won't have to put primer on again with lots of sanding because I think that a new coat of Awlcraft 2000 won't have any problems sticking to an old coat of the same.


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## drakeParagon (Dec 8, 2011)

Minnewaska said:


> Drake, I think there are few things that dress up a sailboat more than a painted mast. They're beautiful. I've resisted only to avoid the inevitable maintenance.


Since I painted it, we've had many years of no maintenance the mast still looks great. I doubt I will ever have to repaint it.



Minnewaska said:


> How did you strip your mast? (I didn't re-watch the vid, but recall it from years back) Did it take you three hours to sand off 2 sqft, as the OP experienced?


The paint on our then 36 year old mast was so far gone that it didn't take that much effort at all to sand it all off down the bare aluminum with a Dewalt palm sander. Started with a coarser grit and finished with 220. Just removing all of the hardware was a bigger job than the sanding.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

drakeParagon said:


> Since I painted it, we've had many years of no maintenance the mast still looks great. I doubt I will ever have to repaint it.


I wonder if our 130 genny smacking across the mast on a tack would fare as well? I've seen all kinds of boats with painted masts that have scuffing up the first 10 feet or so. Glad you're exempt.


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## drakeParagon (Dec 8, 2011)

Minnewaska said:


> I wonder if our 130 genny smacking across the mast on a tack would fare as well? I've seen all kinds of boats with painted masts that have scuffing up the first 10 feet or so. Glad you're exempt.


HA!  I guess we don't tack that much actually. Typically we're many hundreds of miles on just one tack.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

drakeParagon said:


> HA!  I guess we don't tack that much actually. Typically we're many hundreds of miles on just one tack.


I'm trying to decide if I'm more jealous of your painted mast or hundreds of miles on one tack.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> The way I was taught to test was to apply a rag soaked in acetone to the surface. If you removed color, it's one part, if not than it was LP.
> 
> I'm as confused as ever as to what the original manufacturer specified, if it was delivered with white gelcoat. But it doesn't matter, I really don't think that is a factor anyway.
> 
> ...


Minne:
The test for LP paint vs one part as specified by Awlgrip, Alexseal, and interlux is as follows:
-soak a rag with solvent (each company has a different solvent type) and then tape a ziplock type bag over the rag and up against the unknown paint being tested. Tape all edges so the solvent does not evaporate. Come back anywhere from 1 hr to 24 hours (again, depends on which companies test you are following). If unknown paint is bubbled or wrinkled then the paint is one part and 2 part cannot go over. Some manufactures allow the test paint to soften slightly and consider the paint being tested to be 2 part.

When I did the above test, I came up with existing paint as two part (the paint only slightly soften- and by the Alexseal test parameters, that would be a two part.

The stern of my boat was painted with what I think was a 1 part paint. it softened and would peel with the above solvent test. Also, rubbing a rag soaked with acetone would rub off the paint (with what I think is two part, it would have no effect). The paint on my stern came off fairly easily- about 30 minutes to take off 3 layers of paint on about a 6 ft2 area.

My boat in 1978 was made with a gel coat exterior. That apparently lasted until about 8 years ago when it was painted.

What the local paint supplier is telling me that many super yachts now days are built and then painted (using either Alexseal or Awlgrip). I am not sure if these yachts also have a gel coat, but what he is saying is that gel coat is no longer used as the final layer on the hull of the delivered super yacht. I would assume that you could just have an epoxy hull and paint directly to the epoxy (no gel coat). The paint supplier is saying gelcoat has fallen out of favor as it is difficult to repair and the color choices are not extensive- paint offers more options.

I could be doing something wrong in trying to sand off the paint. However I am using a professional Porter Cable industrial random orbital sander with Porter Cable industrial paper and hooked to a vacuum cleaner for dust protection. Change the paper when it gets clogged up. As I said, I first used 180 grit paper, and when that went slow, I tried my 80 grit and that was still slow.

BTW, on Saturday I spent 8 hours and sanded the two layers of bottom paint off the hull using the same sander and 80 grit paper. It was a lot of work, but the sander performed well- unlike what it would do on the topside paint.

I also need to sand the mast as it has the same red paint, I think it will go a lot faster, with an old sanding disk took me 5 minutes by had to remove a few square inches- with the machine, should go quick- could be the paint is not boned as well to the existing mast white paint and the paint adheres well to the gel coat on the top side.


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## SVTatia (May 7, 2007)

drakeParagon said:


> ...I'm looking forward to someday lightly sanding the topsides and repainting with Awlcraft 2000 again....


But you could wax and buff it to bring the shine back, right?
Have you actually tried that?


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

casey1999 said:


> ....he is saying is that gel coat is no longer used as the final layer on the hull of the delivered super yacht.


I'm sure what he was saying is that colored gelcoat (as opposed to white) is not often used anymore. At first, colored gelcoat is substantially more durable than any paint. The problem is that it eventually fades (chaulks), especially if you don't care for it routinely. Many don't, since it presents itself as so bulletproof at first. Ultimately, most everyone paints over colored gelcoat anyway.



> I would assume that you could just have an epoxy hull and paint directly to the epoxy (no gel coat).


I've never heard of that, but doubt it's correct. Painting is expensive and many/most yachts are left original gelcoat white. I wouldn't think many boat manufacturer's would require paint.



> The paint supplier is saying gelcoat has fallen out of favor as it is difficult to repair and the color choices are not extensive- paint offers more options.


This is true. It's not that you can't repair a scratch or ding in gelcoat, but it's difficult. If the problem is many square feet of damage, particularly if it's deep and inconsistent fading, it's nearly impossible to get the repair to be the same color as the surrounding surface.



> I could be doing something wrong in trying to sand off the paint.....


I can't say for sure. Something isn't right about the time it's taking, although, it's a bear of a job for sure.

I'm only encouraging you to make the best choices for the longevity of what will be a huge job either way. I've never heard of a good paint job that didn't require fairing around most of the hull. Fiberglass shrinks, etc, over time, so leveling out is typically needed.

Best of luck with your project. If you're happy with it, that's all that counts.

p.s. Did you consider Interlux paint stripper?


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## captjcook (Sep 27, 2008)

I will avoid most of this, however, I use and have used a lot of Awlgrip. I will say that in painting an aluminum mast, Alexseal is the way to go...because of their strontium cor-spec (Mil-spec) epoxy primer. Shoot 1 slightly wet coat wait 3 hours and shoot topcoat...done in 1 day (how we painted my friends mast)...Awlgrip Max-cor requires 17-24 hours then must be coated with Awlgrip hi-build +wait a day, 545 + wait a day, then topcoat with an hour between coats. (This is how I did my mast) For anything new I am switching to Alexseal...


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

Interlux Perfection is no longer distributed in Canada, and according to Interlux may disappear from the US soon as well. When I asked why I was told there is a small market and it is also really better suited to professional use.


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## PseudAnon (Mar 9, 2016)

miatapaul said:


> Does anyone know who makes TotalBoat Wet Edge from Jamestown? Has anyone here used it and what was there experience. They have lots of videos of it being roll and tipped, and that is going to be what I am doing this spring. Some of the results in the videos look good. I am thinking ease of application and repair ability are more important to me than finial finish or longevity. (I am sure I will regret the longevity in 10 years but don't think I will own the boat that long)


I believe they have been formulating their own paints and epoxies for the past few years now. At least that is what [email protected] told me last time I spoke with him.


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## Shockwave (Feb 4, 2014)

Awlgrip is linear polyurethane, color goes to the bottom and clear rises. The wet look with Awlgrip is one of the best. It's difficult to repair and cannot be buffed. Alwcraft 2000 is an acrylic urethane, the color is throughout and doesn't quite have the wet look of Awlgrip but it can be buffed and repaired more easily. It's also softer. We like Awlcraft because stuff happens and the guys fixing my fubars make it like it never happened. When the boat was repainted the crew took off all the old paint with 1/2 sheet sanders then long boarded. It was hard, back breaking work, I was glad not to be pushing the sander, writing checks was much easier. If you're not sure what's under the new paint job it's probably best to take it off. I have no knowledge of Alexseal but others have raved about it.


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## Kristtaney (Feb 17, 2016)

Used Interlux about 17 years ago to do a complete paint job, used the roller and tip method, came looking fantastic. We had the boat till last year and it still looked as good as the day it was done, the only care it received was wash with mild soap water, retained its shine and never saw wax through the years.
If you use it follow the instruction don't take short cuts, I used a piece of glass to get the mix right (test your mix on the glass to make sure you have the sag right) when bone correctly your application marks will disappear.
They used to have a tape you could watch, yes that long ago likely find a something on YouTube now.
Good luck and watch you pot life.


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## boatpoker (Jul 21, 2008)

I bought a can of Perfection to try roll & tip on my pilot house. I turned out .... well to 'perfection'. Incredibly easy to roll and tip with nary a brush stroke in sight and a wonderfull gloss. Thoroughly satisfied with the product off I went to the chandlery (just a week later) to buy enough to do the whole boat ..... product now banned for sale to the public in Canada because apparently our government thinks we are too stupid to use "toxic" products. Had to strip it all off and go back to 1-part paint.


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## Tanski (May 28, 2015)

Doesn't really surprise me, most people don't have access to the required saftey equipment.
I wouldn't use the stuff without a full fresh air supply respirator unit.
I really hope thats the reason and not some stupid environmental thing!
BTW still shown for sale at MarineOutfitters.


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## Kristtaney (Feb 17, 2016)

Hepa mask is fine unless you plan to spray.


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## Tanski (May 28, 2015)

Hepa does not filter out any vapour, great for sanding doesn't do a thing for fumes. Fumes will kill you just as quick with a hepa.
You need an carbon organic vapour at minimum, and I still wouldn't.
I have a very high end cartridge respirator for work, spend hours with it on, different filters for different things from P100 particulate filters to carbon.
Carbon filters have to be replaced regularly.


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

Perfection will probably disappear from the US as well.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Just and update. Ended up painting the boat with Awlgrip. Put two coats of the 545 primer on and then two coats of the Whisper Grey top coat. Plan to add one more coat of top coat. Turned out pretty good. Never worked with the two part LP paint so it was kind of stressful. Especially trying to mix the paint, and roll and tip by myself while working from a 10 foot ladder. Once, while priming the wind lifted up my roll pan full of paint and tossed it. Some days it was 85 degrees with the wind blowing 25 knots so it was some tough painting conditions- paint skim dried within minutes of applying. I do have a little orange peel but not too bad. I tried adding more reducer to thin the paint and increase dry times. Did not really work, but it did eat the foam rollers faster- even though they were for the two part LP paint. Overall a good learning experience, and when I paint again in 10 years might end up with a mirror finish. A lot of friends would drive by and stop and say how good the boat was looking and showed interest in going sailing- no one offered to help paint, such is life...


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Pic, Still have some detailing to do


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## tschaefer (Apr 21, 2016)

Great video using Awlcraft 2000. Which converter and reducer did you use?
We have a mast painted with Awlcraft and want to touch it up but u sure what t buy to be able to brush it on.

Thanks


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Well got the final details. Almost ready to launch. I will be heading for the horn soon so will be moving over to cruisers forum.


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## newt (Mar 15, 2008)

casey1999 said:


> Well got the final details. Almost ready to launch. I will be heading for the horn soon so will be moving over to cruisers forum.


As somebody who has more than a few posts on CF, you are welcome to them!


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