# yanmar manual crank?



## bradfalk (Jul 31, 2008)

hi all, 

I have a yanmar 2gm20f on a caliber 28'- how important is it to get my hands on a manual crank to start the engine if the started motor dies? I've heard mixed things and some people say it's so hard to manually start the thing that it's not worth buying and crank. anyone have experience with this and/or know where I could buy one? 

also- anyone know of a better yanmar "manual" than the "yanmar manual?" I have probably already learned most of the important things from friends but would like a better source than that lousy manual. 

thanks in advance- 

brad


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## mrwuffles (Sep 9, 2008)

I am a day fresh out of mack boring's yanmar small diesel class, the manuals were probably stiff for those people because they wernt doing it right, on top of the valve cover there are a couple little tabs and if you release them they will let out the compression making it easy to crank, so you crank it as fast as you can and once you get it up there you click them back to fire it right up. If it is just the operating manual that probably isn't going to tell you too much a service manual will have tons more info.


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

We have a Yanmar 3GM that we have tried to hand crank on numerous occaisions. Despite releasing the compression tabs and having a hefty winch gorilla swinging the handle, we have not been able to "fire it right up" at all. Nothing seems to work but the electric starter, so we have ramped up our solar charger so the batteries are fully charged all the time. We have no problems pushing the starter button, and if it has fuel, the engine runs.


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## artbyjody (Jan 4, 2008)

Last year when my starter died on my Yanmar, we tried to use the crank. Even using the compression levers we could never get it to turn over. End result we broke the doodad that the handle slides into - but since we could never get it to go at sufficient speed to turn over by cranking never fixed it. Just my experience. Do however, check into the price of new versus rebuilds - sometimes new is actually cheaper than rebuilding or purchasing a rebuilt starter.


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## nereussailor (Nov 3, 2007)

Which manual are you talking about, the owners manual or the repair manual? I bought the repair manual, and it is very descriptive about everything on the motor. I believe it was around $65


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## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

Don't buy a manual - anything you need is at this website:

Yanmar 2GM & Related Links


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

WAY back when (1974) i have seen single cylinder diesels that had GIANT flywheels that would allow you to spinup the motor buy hand and the flywheel stored enough engery to start the motor after you poped the compression release


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## jcboyce (Dec 7, 2011)

As an old Mariner my first responce is better of not printed, I have had several 30Plus vessels with no Engine.
My Yanmar is of the 15 HP, but I'm only Documented at 11 tons.
Crank Starting a 40 HP Deisel can be done. Genneraly by three large men, cranking to build up enough heat to ignite the fuel since the 3GM has no glow plugs, to ignite the fuel.
Do you need a crank, Back in the 70s I knew a guy that had 3 hurnia opperations before he listened to his doctor and put a winch on the bow to pull up his anchor.
Do you Sail outside of the relm of help? Do You have a towing sevice that will jump start the engine?
Granted I live Motto, If you can't get yourself home, don't take your self to sea. If It won't run, & I can't sail out I tow it with my diny. 
If you want to be able to take care of your self, gear a small portable diesel gen
Boyce


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## j34035 (Nov 10, 2006)

If you rub 2 sticks togeather fast enough you can build a fire, too. Never seen either one work............


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

In the early 70's I had a boat with a Volvo MD-1 (with the big flywheel) and I hand started it a few times to prove it could be done.

My current Yanmar YSE-8 - no such luck. I think if you were really mad maybe.

I agree about the manual - don't buy one as the service manuals are all on line.


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## marcusc130 (Oct 8, 2011)

I have a 2qm15 that I have been able to hand crank a couple times. It's a workout for sure. You have to really get the thing moving, and it helps a ton if you have someone else around to flip the decomp. levers. 

A little tip, if your battery is weak, you can flip the decompression levers, spin the motor up with the electric starter, then flip the levers closed. It doesn't take nearly as much juice to get it going this way.


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## SlowButSteady (Feb 17, 2010)

I've tried to hand start my 2gm20 a couple of times, without much success. Part of the problem on my boat is the limited engine access. My bet is that if the engine was already warm I *might* be able to get it going again with the hand crank; but, if the engine was stone cold I would probably have a coronary long before the damned thing was running on its own.

On the other hand, my dock neighbor has a one cylinder Yanmar on his boat and he's able to hand start it without too much trouble (at least according to him).


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

j34035 said:


> If you rub 2 sticks togeather fast enough you can build a fire, too. Never seen either one work............


By practicing, I did learn to start fires with two sticks; even did it in the dark to get light.

But I never could get the hang of hand cranking, even though my Dad could do it.

I was also afraid the crank would snap around and break my arm when the motor fired.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

bradfalk said:


> hi all,
> 
> I have a yanmar 2gm20f on a caliber 28'- how important is it to get my hands on a manual crank to start the engine if the started motor dies? I've heard mixed things and some people say it's so hard to manually start the thing that it's not worth buying and crank. anyone have experience with this and/or know where I could buy one?
> 
> ...


I guess I'll break with the pack and say HELL YES get yourself a handle and learn to use it! I had the Yanmar 2QM20F which is a slightly older verion of your exact motor (mine was 1980). I probably hand started it 20 times or so and I'm no gorilla. Once after flooding the starter with salt water I used it to motor out of Princess Louisa Inlet. If you're not familliar with the area, it's a fjord with mountain walls so high you can't even get VHF reception with a nearby coastguard station. We would have had to wait for the next ice age for wind there!

People will tell you that it's impossible but really it's a matter of technique and once you get it right you can always do it, though you do need 2 people so that the second person can release the decompression lever. There are lots of tricks and shortcuts that make it easier. PM me or ask me to post it if you'd like the entire procedure and list of tricks to make it easier.

Yanmar put a lot of thought into this feature also. For example the handle will not fly around and break your wrist as some hand crank engines will. It is attached to a free-wheeling device simmilar to how a bicycle wheel can be driven by the pedals but not the other way around. In fact, in my manual, it listed the starter motor and electrical gauge panel as optional accessories!!!

On another occasion I had another electrical issue and couldn't use the starter. Having the hand crank meant I could still start the engine, and go on my weekend trip to show off the boat at the wooden boat festival without worry.

Now that I have a 45HP that doesn't have a hand crank option I REALLY miss the ultimate redundancy of the hand crank.

Medsailor

PS One more tip, carry a spare length of bicycle chain and a chain remover/fitter tool. Keep it in a zip lock packed in grease. The first time we tried to hand crank the motor the bicycle chain connecting the flywheel to the hand crank wheel broke from rust.


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## Lake Superior Sailor (Aug 23, 2011)

I have a YSM-8 , I am a tree climber by trade, I bought the crank, But I can't do it either! When my batteries were dead I had to sail in! The crank is handy while working on motor, or a heavy weapon! --Dale


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## sawingknots (Feb 24, 2005)

i can't on my ysb12 either,i expect the compresion or engine wear has something to do with it,i keep plenty of batterys and a spare starter on board and a backup outboard mounted on the stern,i had to call s**tow once,i'll not make that mistake again,fool me once shame on you,fool me twice shame on me


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

I have a Yanmar 2gm20F installed in a Nor'sea 27. It would take two people to hand start the engine. One to crank it with the decompression levers open, the second person to close the levers while the engine is spun up. I don't have the crank. Any idea how much they want for it?


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## killarney_sailor (May 4, 2006)

I had a Nonsuch 30 with a Volvo (I think it was 23 hp) that I hand-started a few times. I found that you really need two people - one to crank the damn thing as hard as you possibly can and the other to flip the decompression levers down. I found that if you took one hand off the crank (and still kept cranking with the other) it would not work. One time I did it by myself by running a light line from the lever through a couple of blocks to a loop around the top of my head and then moved my head back to close a lever once I was cranking furiously. It can be done, but is quite hard work.


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## j34035 (Nov 10, 2006)

skygazer said:


> By practicing, I did learn to start fires with two sticks; even did it in the dark to get light.
> 
> But I never could get the hang of hand cranking, even though my Dad could do it.
> 
> I was also afraid the crank would snap around and break my arm when the motor fired.


Did not say it could not be done, just never seen it. Rubbing 2 sticks have kept a lot of kids busy over the years though
DD


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

I put a new on the pallet YSM8 1 lung in the first boat I built. When it arrived it was sitting on the pallet and I was checking it out. I put the hand crank on it and couldn't really turn it. Then I discovered the compression release, released it and spun the engine over a couple of turns - after that I closed the compression release and the damned thing lit off - on the assembly lube! 

Talk about a moment of panic until I thought to simply trip the compression release again.

After I installed it, I started it with the handle a number of times - even in the winter, although THAT took some doing. All I ever had to do was open the throttle wide, trip the compression release, crank it until it was spinning well and close the CR - it would start right up - first or second time if it was warm out, after many times if it was cold. Having someone on the throttle to slow it down obviates diving into the cockpit before it over-revs.

The YSM base engine had no electrics - starter, alternator, panel - all options. The crank was for real. If I had a diesel with a crank, I'd learn how to start it manually - they don't provide the hand option for no reason, it costs them money to provide it.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

As SJB alluded to above, the engine will start on it's own shipping lube, and like any compression-ignition engine, diesel is not it's favorite fuel.

I learned this trick from the chief engineer of a cruise ship. For assistance starting your diesel: take off the air filter and while cranking (either by hand or electric starter) spray WD-40 into the air intake. This is how they bench test diesels in shops he worked. Even with a fuel source disconnected they will run indefinitely on WD-40 and they are MUCH easier to start with it's help.

NOTE: do NOT use starting fluid (either) for this trick. It will eat your rings. WD-40 will not.

My method for hand cranking, that was foolproof required 2 people.

The weaker of the two tries their best to start the engine. The throttle must be wide open. After several failures They have added significant heat to the combustion chamber.

Now the stronger person spins the handle like a bastard as fast as they can, again with a wide open throttle. The second person releases the levers when the cranking person least expects it. This usually works. If it doesn't try again, this time with the lever releasing party spraying 4D-40 into the air intake (throttle still wide open). This always works.

An alternative is to buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0QN61GZ833PY6SD8GFG0









Don't waste your money on a cheap one. This particular model I have used to start a friends 4cylinder diesel genset on their boat. We cranked and cranked that puppy while troubleshooting it for several goes of 10 full seconds a piece. The group 24 battery we were "assisting" at the time showed 11.0 volts.

MedSailor

I still think you should get the handle.


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## centaursailor (Nov 7, 2010)

That WD 40 tip beats the older and riskier trick of holding a burning oily rag to the air intake while cranking.
My 3GMF is a ***** with the hand crank positioned near the sole so scraped knuckles are inevitable without gloves.
I tried to start her last summer when the battery went flat, no joy but luckily the battery fo my electic outboard did the trick. Didnt risk the pre heat as I was still in dock but will give the more sensible WD40 tip a go as its always good to be prepared for battery failure.
Safe sailing


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

centaursailor said:


> That WD 40 tip beats the older and riskier trick of holding a burning oily rag to the air intake while cranking.
> My 3GMF is a ***** with the hand crank positioned near the sole so scraped knuckles are inevitable without gloves.
> I tried to start her last summer when the battery went flat, no joy but luckily the battery fo my electic outboard did the trick. Didnt risk the pre heat as I was still in dock but will give the more sensible WD40 tip a go as its always good to be prepared for battery failure.
> Safe sailing


Burning oily rag? Sounds like a recipe for an insurance claim!:hothead

The version of that I have used is holding a blowtorch to the intake. Compression begets heat which begets ignition. If you start with hotter air (ie the torch) it's easier.

BTW do NOT try the blowtorch trick and the WD-40 trick at the same time. 
:hothead:hothead:hothead:hothead

Medsailor


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## Sailingking22 (Feb 17, 2012)

I'm a little fuzzy on the decompression trick. On my Yanmar YSM 12 when opened the engine spins easily. When closed engine is impossible to spin. Additionally, it's located under the air intake so the only way to open and close it while spinning is with a string attached to the lever. Any help/advice?


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Sailingking22 said:


> I'm a little fuzzy on the decompression trick. On my Yanmar YSM 12 when opened the engine spins easily. When closed engine is impossible to spin. Additionally, it's located under the air intake so the only way to open and close it while spinning is with a string attached to the lever. Any help/advice?


In most cases, hand cranking a diesel is a two man job - one to crank, the other to control the decomp, spraying WD40 etc.


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## Tafa (Feb 8, 2012)

Hi Bradfalk,

I used to have a 2GM18 in my first boat and I managed once to start it by manual cranking. It was a starter failure, not a battery related issue so jumper cables etc was not the option.

As mentioned here before it's a two man job. One for cranking, one for managing the decompression levers. Cranking it to the starting speed is hard but possible. 

Once you get enough rpm, closing decompression levers needs to be done as one cylinder at a time.

In my experience it worked but it needs, lots of muscle power and sweat.

Good luck 

Tafa


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

One Yanmar salesman told me of a guy who hose clamped a diving weigh to his starting handle to get enough momentum to get her to fire. He said it worked that time. Harder to do on a colder engine in winter.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

This is one situation where nothing replaces a huge flywheel. One of those monsters like they used on big single Volvos and the Swedish SABB diesels. Decompress, take 15 or 20 minutes () to get that thing up to speed and let go - kachunk, kachunk, kachunk......

Personally, I'd prefer to see marine diesels regress to that old style of engine. Modern pump and injector technology, fine but lightweight rpm's are a poor substitute for all that slow moving iron IMHO. They sure don't last as long either. I fully intend to have my granddaughter inherit my old Perkins lump, drips and all.  I just wish IT had a hand crank and bigger wheel.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Tafa said:


> Hi Bradfalk,
> 
> I used to have a 2GM18 in my first boat and I managed once to start it by manual cranking. It was a starter failure, not a battery related issue so jumper cables etc was not the option.
> 
> ...


I agree with the above part about it being a 2 person job. Never tried to do it alone. As for releasing the levers one at a time, I never tried that either, mine were attached together at the decompression lever.

It takes sweat, some muscle, but mainly (manly?) technique. I hand started mine a dozen or more times and I'm 5'10 160lbs. I have to admit, besides the confidence you gain from being able to start a motor without an electrical system or without a starter, there is just a certain kind of Cave Man pleasure you get out of getting the iron beast to relent and succumb to your pure strength. It's just plain FUN when it goes "spins-spin-spin-spin-spin Thunk.......... thunk... thunk..thunk.thunkthunktnkthunk"

I really like the idea of adding weight to the handle as Brent Swain suggested. That could really help!

Another idea is a "spring starter". They are bolt on replacements for your electric starter motor that have exotic springs in them. You wind them up, bolt them on, release a lever and they start your motor just like an electric starter. Halfway between a regular starter and a hand crank handle. I think they're a pretty cool idea myself. Haven't found a reseller of one in the US though. 









MedSailor


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## Leocat66 (Dec 11, 2010)

We have a 3GM 30 F. I did not think the fresh water cooled engines hand crank option could be used at all, as things seem to be in the way of the access of the crank receptacle. I have been told that only the salt water cooled 3 GM was set up for hand cranking. 

Had an old Volvo in the past, with a huge fly wheel, which was fairly easy to crank with the decompression levers released. Not that crazy about Volvos but it was nice to know that you had that option if the starter went south.


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## Mobnets (Apr 24, 2011)

That Spring Starter looks like a pretty cool idea and got me curious about North American sources. Not easy to find but did find this one:

INDUSTRIAL DIESEL PRODUCTS INC.
7075 Tranmere Dr.
Unit 7
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
L5S 1M2
Tel: (905) 362-0423 Fax (905) 362-5015
E-Mail:[email protected]

Mobnets
1973 Chance 32/28 "Westwind"


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## Tafa (Feb 8, 2012)

Thanks MedSailor and Mobnets... This is great... another item for the wishlist


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## mananamon (Feb 5, 2012)

I only have a 1GM and in my experience the hand crank makes better ballast than a device for starting the motor.

I'm probably old fashioned but I like having a paper copy of the repair manual as it's easier to flip pages back and forth while working. Plus, where do you prop up your computer while down in the bilge?

Rich 
Anxiously waiting for launch day


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Tafa said:


> Thanks MedSailor and Mobnets... This is great... another item for the wishlist


You're welcome. Just doing my part to try and stimulate economic spending. 

Credit due to Beth and Evans Beth & Evans <--Huge wealth of wisdom here. Especially the "articles download" page.

Evans was ranting (rightfully in my opinion) about too much focus on "black box" single use "emergency" equipment instead of tools and true self-sufficiency items. He made a passing reference to a "spring starter" and I wondered "what is that?" Googled it and decided I must have one!

Not being able to hand crank my current motor (it doesn't have the option at all) makes me much less comfortable than before. I've once had a starter die at the end of a 40mile Fjord where you would have to wait for the next ice age to get wind. The mountain walls of the fjord were so steep that the coast guard can't hear your VHF broadcasts from inside. So even if I wasn't too stubborn to call for a tow, it wasn't an option. Was R-E-A-L-L-Y glad to have a manual option then. With the spring starter, I might have that option again.

Not sure how much they cost, but I'd be willing to pay. Even a refurbished Yanmar starter for my 2Qm20 was >$600 10 years ago. 

MedSailor


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## ScuzzMonkey (Jun 26, 2006)

Had the starter go out on a 2QM20 a couple years ago and it was absolutely impossible to start with the hand crank... not enough room in the engine compartment to get a full revolution out of it. So, that would be the first thing I would check before springing for a crank handle.

After that proved impossible, we cut a hole saw blade to fit a high-torque drill that _did_ fit in the engine compartment and used that to spin her up. Still no go. And don't let anyone tell you they won't kick back on you when you're cranking... it may not be the old donkey kick from a Model T, but I about dislocated my shoulder when we flipped the compression levers back, and that was _without_ a start.

Found a used spare starter at the local consignment shop for sixty bucks, and later had the original re-built. Between that and solar to cover a drained battery, I figured I had a better backup plan than the crank.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

MedSailor said:


> Even a refurbished Yanmar starter for my 2Qm20 was >$600 10 years ago.  MedSailor


Most cities have motor rewinding specialists - they can rebuild starters, alternators, generators etc. almost indefinitely and for a lot less then $600.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

SloopJonB said:


> Most cities have motor rewinding specialists - they can rebuild starters, alternators, generators etc. almost indefinitely and for a lot less then $600.


Very true, but that wouldn't have done me much good at the end of the Jervis inlet. Since I can't hand crank my current motor, I want to have a spare starter (ideally a spring starter) with me aboard. After all, the darn things never fail at the dock do they? Always at the end of a windless Fjord with no cell or VHF reception.

MedSailor


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

MedSailor said:


> Very true, but that wouldn't have done me much good at the end of the Jervis inlet. Since I can't hand crank my current motor, I want to have a spare starter (ideally a spring starter) with me aboard. After all, the darn things never fail at the dock do they? Always at the end of a windless Fjord with no cell or VHF reception.
> 
> MedSailor


The cheapest solution is to just sit at anchor until the next boat arrives and have them tow you out.  In your case you'll have to hope it's not a 26' with a 6 HP outboard. Also, don't have it happen in late October or you could be there until Spring. 

Or, you can put a decent outboard on your dinghy and use it as a hip tug - all the way down Jervis to the "wind".


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

Many have a boat to get away from civilization. If the starter goes in Jervis Inlet you are just away a little longer.


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## Sailingking22 (Feb 17, 2012)

Lots of great information on these forums. I especially like the spring loaded starter that was posted. My engine is a YSM 12 (1 Cylinder). Their is a power issue somewhere keeping it from spinning fast enought to start but I haven't figured it out. Now that you have explained the decompression piece I can do it myself as I only have one cylinder. I cut a car jack that looks like a + sign. With the compression open I can spin it pretty fast but haven't tried WD-40 yet. When I close compression my momentum stops dead in the tracks so no starting yet. I ordered an old Hand Crank off a Model T on eBay which will fit my motor better and the spinning handle should help me get more speed. I'll let you know how that goes. As for the starter, I had it rebuilt (tests fine in the shop) but hooked up to the engine it spins way too slow. I measured (potential power) at 12.7V on the starter. When I hit the start button it drops to nearly 0V. I hope this means I have a grounding issue and once solved the starter will spin freely. If I understand correctly, you have Positive to Solenoid.....Negative from battery grounded to engine and boat. When I jump direct off a battery pack the starter still spins too slow but it does spin a little faster. While I solve this issue I've also ordered a little scissor lift for an outboard kicker motor. I figured I'll mount my 7.5 Evinrude to the boat as a back-up engine for when the Yanmar fails me and the winds are wrong. Does anyone have any good advice? I figured the jump back would spin the starter full speed but for some reason it doesn't. What are other possibilities?


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

SK22, you did not specify if you jumped only the hot side to the electric starter. If so, try jumping a ground wire also, this should bypass a grounding issue with the electric motor. 

I have an electric motor on my truck's dump body, and when I oiled the frame my lift slowed way down. Turned out it was the oil interfering with the ground, I removed the motor, cleaned the mounts, added some copper to squash in there under the bolts, and now it runs like a top.


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## CapnBones (Sep 20, 2010)

For the slow cranking starter, check cables and connections for corrosion and to make sure they are tight. How far is your battery from your starter (how much wire does the power need to travel through)? Ideally you want the shortest allowable run to prevent power loss. If it goes through a selector switch check those connections as well. Next check for proper sizing on your wires, if they are too small they will not allow enough energy to make it from the battery to the starter. If you go batt to selector to starter all wires need to be large enough probably 2/0.


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## HUGOSALT (Jun 15, 2004)

My 3GM raw water cooled has hand crank, but can't access as install is such
that motor is turned 180 degrees (saildrive) and can't access crank to motor as 
rudder post is right there. Makes for lots of room as motor is installed far aft.
But have come to love my JNC battery booster (see med sailor post # 21)
Years ago met sailor who had large wooden schooner? 80-90+ft. built in Norway or Sweden that had a u-boat diesel installed from after WWII and he used compressed air from a scuba tank to start. Later come to find out compressed air sometimes used to start all sort of large diesels.


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## johnnyquest37 (Feb 16, 2012)

Read an article once about a guy who rigged a line at the end of his boom and used it to crank start his engine. He crashed gybed and boom going over gave the oommph to the line acting as the crank.


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

I once read about a guy who was on Cocos with a dead battery. He lowered a 150 lb anchor over the side ,connected to his flywheel with blocks, rigged like a pull start. When he cut the anchor loose, it pull started the engine instantly. Rubber shock cords made from inner tube , put on layer after layer, could give you huge pull start power. 
My old Hatz diesel had a gizmo which, once set, would let you crank five full turns before it let the compression lever drop. Worked well for years. Never had an electric starter, for the 12 years I had it.


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## Sailingking22 (Feb 17, 2012)

I checked all my wiring. Everything looks good. Starter still spinning very slow. Spins fast on bench test and when not engaged to my flywheel. Possible restriction on the flywheel? Anyhow, my hand crank should be here any day now. I read the trick is to get it spinning very fast with the compression open and then slam it shut. I hope that gets it working.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Sailingking22 said:


> I checked all my wiring. Everything looks good. Starter still spinning very slow. Spins fast on bench test and when not engaged to my flywheel. Possible restriction on the flywheel? Anyhow, my hand crank should be here any day now. I read the trick is to get it spinning very fast with the compression open and then slam it shut. I hope that gets it working.


If you haven't already read it, do read post #21 of this thread where I detail the starting procedure using the handle. You really need 2 people and it is much easier with WD-40.

Post here or PM me with questions. Also, BEFORE you even get started make sure to get the engine as warm as you possibly can. Since you're doing this dockside (I presume) you have options. Space heaters, radiators, heat guns, electric blankets etc. Everything about trying to start your engine will be easier if it's good and warm.

Good luck!

MedSailor


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## Sailingking22 (Feb 17, 2012)

Hey Medsailor - How hot is hot enough. The tempature today was 91 degrees and about 100 in the engine compartment but she still did not want to fire up. I had the new starter put on and it was spinning fairly fast - faster than I could get with the hand crank. Still did not start. I've been using my 7.5HP outboard kicker - this old Yanmar YSM 12 is starting to rust away. Hasn't run in two months now but I don't have the $$$ to get it fixed properly. I'm curious since it looks like this engine will just sit in here for a while if I should do anything to store it....bleed the lines, drain the oil.....I am starting to think this Yanmar will never run again for me.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Sailingking22 said:


> Hey Medsailor - How hot is hot enough. The tempature today was 91 degrees and about 100 in the engine compartment but she still did not want to fire up. I had the new starter put on and it was spinning fairly fast - faster than I could get with the hand crank. Still did not start. I've been using my 7.5HP outboard kicker - this old Yanmar YSM 12 is starting to rust away. Hasn't run in two months now but I don't have the $$$ to get it fixed properly. I'm curious since it looks like this engine will just sit in here for a while if I should do anything to store it....bleed the lines, drain the oil.....I am starting to think this Yanmar will never run again for me.


That temperature is perfect for starting a diesel. If you're not able to start it with an electric starter spinning well, then it's not a hand crank problem it's just a starting problem.

Try this as a test: Take off the air intake housing (2 or 3 clips) and have someone press the start button and crank it over (at full throttle) while you spray 4D40 into the air intake. It should run while you're spraying. If it runs while you're spraying then you've probably got good compression.

If it continues running after you've stopped spraying then you've got a weak starter which is likely the result of poor battery or wire condition (since your starter is new).

If it stops running when you stop spraying then you know you've got rotation, air, and compression. All you're missing is fuel. Likely if you check for blockages in the fuel system and bleed the lines you'll be in business.

BTW I highly recommend this book. It has great flow sheets for troubleshooting that start with things like "engine won't crank" or "engine will crank but won't start." It's very easy to read and approachable, unlike Nigel Caulder's tome:
Amazon.com: Troubleshooting Marine Diesels (9780070123540): Peter Compton: [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@51vIxMBwd7L









MedSailor


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## jcboyce (Dec 7, 2011)

1 Are you keeping the tank full, If not water would condence on the walls of the tank, run down, be picked up & pumped to the injection pump. I don't think Yanmar's return line goes back to the tank traping water in a delivery loop at the pump. Water make a poor fuel in a diesel.
2If you can get it to runn on a prime, Carfully see if you can remove the delivery pipes to the injector.then bleed it removing a little fuel, the ctank it over, wateching the cnow open fuel couple at the injection pump. if all is well small amounts of fuel oil should spurt. (Not even a drop) If that happens smell it so you know it's diesel. connect the injector pump end, after blowing it clear.
crank until fuel comes out. connect the orther end, ingage the compression release crank it about 20 times. close the compression release, and do it for real.
Always when testing fuel systems keep a fire extenguisher handy, and wipe up fuel with a rage. If you have blowers run them othgerwise open the hatches and stir the air. and keep your hands away grom the intake and moving parts.
JC Boyce


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

Leocat66 said:


> We have a 3GM 30 F. I did not think the fresh water cooled engines hand crank option could be used at all, as things seem to be in the way of the access of the crank receptacle. I have been told that only the salt water cooled 3 GM was set up for hand cranking.
> 
> Had an old Volvo in the past, with a huge fly wheel, which was fairly easy to crank with the decompression levers released. Not that crazy about Volvos but it was nice to know that you had that option if the starter went south.


I have the Yanmar 3gmd (sea water cooled). It is set up for hand crank start. I have tried to find a starter handle (none came with boat) but no luck. Access is so limited (v-drive) hand start would be difficult, or maybe impossible due to crank clearance required. I do like that spring starter.

FYI: Checked the "Spring Starter" supplier mentioned in earlier post- they do not carry a spring starter for Yanmar 3GMD.


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## jcboyce (Dec 7, 2011)

If you have a 3GM20 Rather then th, You mige 3GM30 You might want to try. Most used marine chandleries eventualy come up with a crank. 
If not a welder can make one frpm a pipe or rod the right size, welded to a peice of bar stock, with a bolt inside a pipe welded on to serve as a handle, slotting of 90 deg on either side R or L for direction.

as to the 3 GM 30 F, the nearest one is 2 slips over & its 11 PM. If I remember ther is a belt gaurd, blocking the normal crank access, which is capted. 
I'm not quit as crazy as I used to be, But I think it could be done.
But as I said when I went to pick up a 40 cruising catch, for the sea scouts, & found the starter was bad, Any mariner worth his salt would have a spare and it should be in this drawer here. It was one up. 
Ifyou don't want to get a hole starter used, Get a new Cylinoid. my 2QM15 Cylinoid is used by several manafactures. the cheapest sells for about $14 
JC Boyce


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## toolarts12 (Mar 16, 2013)

Have you tried flipping all the compression levers up, getting the crank turning, and then popping 1 compression lever? I have found the 3 GM will run very nicely with only one cylinder firing. Once it cranks on its own--on one cylinder, try popping the other levers one by one. I am pretty sure this would work as long as it isn't too cold outside.

I can't test it...I have a crank, but the position of the engine makes it impossible to operate.


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## NCC320 (Dec 23, 2008)

My previous boat had the YSM-12 (single cylinder) and my battery was forever dying. With the compression lever closed, it was impossible for me to use the crank to turn the engine over. With the compression lever open, it was stiff, especially when cold, but I could do it. To deal with the compression lever, I used an expandable boat hook which I could wedge between the galley cabinet and the lever to hold the lever open. Then, with both hands, cranking as hard as I could and getting the engine turning as fast as I could, I would pull the boat hook away, the spring loaded compression lever would close, and usually, the engine would start. Sometimes it took several tries....each try tended to heat the compression chamber a little I think. My set up was such that if the boat hook slipped out of place it wasn't going to get hung up in the running parts and be a safety issue. I didn't know about the WD-40 trick....it would have made life easier.


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## Bacchus258 (Aug 24, 2012)

Does anyone know where to buy the crank handle? Some in this post said they bought one but my Google searches come up empty. Any help is appreciated as always. 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4


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## rikhall (Feb 7, 2008)

I have one you can have it I knew where you lived (Hint - fill out your Profile)

Rik


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## THEFRENCHA (Jan 26, 2003)

If your starter works well on bench but very slow when installed ...and after your have cleaned your ground connection you might want to bypass all the harness and connectors and install a push button right on the starter 

I did this for when battery is weak or when the stupid Yanmar electrical harness creates problems 
Never failed and a very good back up to use when you need your engine running NOW and don't have time to check where the problem is

In your case I would also check if the seacock was closed During your several attempt to start you might have flooded your engine with seawater. The compression would explain why the starter cannot make the engine turn fast enough to start Check your oil level and COLOR


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## Bacchus258 (Aug 24, 2012)

Rikhall,

It has been updated and I tried to send a PM but I have not posted enough to do that yet. My email is [email protected] if you would send me an email I will email you my address.

Thank you, Bruce


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## rikhall (Feb 7, 2008)

Bruce - I sent an email with pics

Rik


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## White Knight (Sep 14, 2013)

From my experience with hand starting a 2QM20,it comes down to timing.It is imperative that the decomp lever is flicked over just as you are starting to "lift" the crank handle,about 7 o'clock is the right position.It also helps to be a weight lifter.
Chris
LFH Leaboard Ketch "Tern"


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## UncleJim (Jul 27, 2009)

I was having starting problems (fuel related) last week and asked my mech about the WD-40 and he told me that the new formula is not the same and it does not work as well as it used to. Anyone know about this?


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## White Knight (Sep 14, 2013)

I was once told that WD40 is perfumed Fisholene,how true I don't really know.
Chris
LFH Leaboard Ketch


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## arvicola-amphibius (Apr 14, 2012)

Back to the original question. About 20 years ago I had a boat with the very early 2GM which was rated at 13 hp. Using the decompression levers I was able to hand crank that baby and had to do so on many occasions because of low battery capacity..
My current boat has the later 2GM-20 which comes with a crank handle. Even though access is good enough to get a decent swing at it, no way can I develop enough grunt to get it over compression. Me being 20 years older may be part of the problem, but I think the lack of a flywheel is the other part.
So, I carry a spare electric starter motor now. And have double the battery capacity on this boat.


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## billymc38 (Jan 24, 2013)

try a little starting fluid just prior yo releasing compression should do the trick if all systems are working


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

I really need to figure out how to make and post an instructional YouTube video on how to do this. It CAN be done, but it takes some technique. 

Also, starting fluid is bad bad bad. WD40 works nearly as well and doesn't have the same issues. 

MedSailor


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## WGEwald (Jun 2, 2014)

j34035 said:


> If you rub 2 sticks togeather fast enough you can build a fire, too. Never seen either one work............


Primitive Fire Using the Hand Drill - YouTube


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## WGEwald (Jun 2, 2014)




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