# Just bought a Pearson 10M



## Sailorgary10m

Hello community I'm clicking off items on my bucket list, just Bought Pearson 10M And have never sailed a day in my life, sailing classes start next week. My new boat has all the bells and whistles only wish I knew how to use them. Any help or suggestions would be most appreciated. If anyone has a copy of the owners manual I would sure love to see it since I don't even know the location of the sea-cocks.Hope to hear from a fellow 10 M owner to discuss this boat.
Gary


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## aa3jy

Sailorgary10m said:


> Hello community I'm clicking off items on my bucket list, just Bought Pearson 10M And have never sailed a day in my life, sailing classes start next week. My new boat has all the bells and whistles only wish I knew how to use them. Any help or suggestions would be most appreciated. If anyone has a copy of the owners manual I would sure love to see it since I don't even know the location of the sea-cocks.Hope to hear from a fellow 10 M owner to discuss this boat.
> Gary


What year and engine config.?

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1797


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## Sailorgary10m

It'a a 1973, hull # 21 Westerbeke w-21 diesel 425 hours


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## contrarian

Best advise I can give is to look up Dan Pfieffers (not sure of spelling) site on the 10m. He was the guru of all things Pearson for some time starting with the venerable P26 and later a 10 meter that he made considerable upgrades to. I think you will find the 10m to be a good sailing boat and fairly easy to handle once you get past the learning curve. It can be a handfull when over canvased with a big genoa and full main in a stiff breeze though.


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## Sailorgary10m

I've been to his site, tried to contact him, no response yet. There are no recent posts though, last update was 2005. Thanks for responding.


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## contrarian

Sorry to hear that Dan's not active any longer, happens to the best of us. With regards to your post though you mention that the boat has all the bells and whistles but you don't really go into detail as to what you mean, ie are you referring to sailing gear such as updated winches, clutches, traveler, barberhauler and the like? If so, I am sure that these things will be covered if you take a good ASA course. I have never had a course so I probably have some bad habits that are too late for me to change. I learned by crewing on other peoples boats on Sat. Morning races ( these were basically just preludes to beer drinking fests), never the less you do tend to learn a lot that way( bout drinking beer that is ). This practice has virtually vanished here in my area, seems most people just moved on to cruising boats and just lost interest in racing or they just quit the sport entirely. The 10m was a strong contender back in the day and had decent accommodations down below unlike it's rival the Tartan 10. Should make a good all around boat for just puttsing about in.
Congrats on your purchase.


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## krisscross

Congratulations and welcome to the joys of owning a sailboat. Pearson 10M is a very nice boat that should serve you well. You should get very familiar with your boat before you venture out and get to know each and every system on it. This just can't be overemphasized, especially with regards to critical systems, such as water ingress points, pumps, electrical system, engine, steering, rigging, and so on.


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## cdy

I have raced on one years ago - very good sailing boat , performs well to its PHRF rating - if you ever progress enough to start racing it - it does well.


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## Sailorgary10m

I agree, that's why I'm trying to locate the owner's manual or another 10 M owner but since only 250 were built 40 years ago this is proving to be difficult but I shall persevere.


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## JimsCAL

The 10m was part of the 70s Pearson lineup designed by Bill Shaw that included the P26, P30 and P36-1. The family resemblance is obvious if you look at them together. The 10m had good success in the PHRF fleets for many years. One highly modified one out of Port Washington, NY was very successful for years. A bit long in the tooth now and has some of the disadvantages of boats from that era (like small a cockpit), but all in all, you could do a lot worse. Sounds like yours was repowered, as most came with an Atomic 4. Enjoy.


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## VIEXILE

What would you like to know? If you don't have the add-on bulkhead chainplate attachments and you're chains are into the knees, add biax and west system port and starboard. Gutted one, stem to stern, bulkheads out, etc., repowered, redid, lightened up, kicked ass. Tiller steered. If I got another one, I'd toss that Edson helm that clutters up the forward end of the cockpit and bridge deck over board and install a tiller. Looked at 2 recently. 

Also be very aware at haul out the aft end of the keel SHOULD NOT BE BLOCKED. It's just a fiberglass cover aft of the lead keel. You can tell where it ends by tapping. Just point it out to the yard people.

Way better than a Tartan 10 (although I'm thoroughly enamored with the T37's of late) for toughness, space, and I've tromped a few T10's. Much more room below, engine isn't in the middle of the salon, etc. They're both fun boats.

I have singlehanded in 30kn with WAY too much headsail (I kept it all hank on). But managed. Drop the traveler. Damn thing balances unbelieveably with almost no weather helm. Just enough to keep you awake. A Switlick stick with a cockpit side lock and I could run forward as the 150+ disintegrated (it was an antique and I was racing) and yank it down to the next hank, lash that to the tack, run back and get another beer. Won the race, lost the old genny. All I got was name on trophy in the case at Skinny Legs, Coral Bay, but it was fun. Have contemplated another 10M (sold that one circa 2011), toughen it up, get self steering, go on tour. It would do it.


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## Sailorgary10m

As I stated in my original post I am completely new to sailing and that applies to sailing jargon also you sound quite knowledgeable on all aspects of the Pearson 10M but reading your response I may as well have been reading Greek, I didn't understand most of what you are saying.

What I'm looking for is really a copy of an owners manual that depicts wiring diagrams piping in tubing and seacock locations. Thanks for the information about the aft end of the keel wouldn't want to pay for another repair job.

Safe sailing


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## Jeff_H

Sailorgary10m said:


> As I stated in my original post I am completely new to sailing and that applies to sailing jargon also you sound quite knowledgeable on all aspects of the Pearson 10M but reading your response I may as well have been reading Greek, I didn't understand most of what you are saying.
> 
> What I'm looking for is really a copy of an owners manual that depicts wiring diagrams piping in tubing and seacock locations. Thanks for the information about the aft end of the keel wouldn't want to pay for another repair job.
> 
> Safe sailing


What he is telling you from experience is that you bought a boat that is a really nice design, but it has major idiosyncrasies that can prove dangerous if ignored. It appears that you did not bother to get the boat surveyed and do not have enough experience to survey the boat yourself. Before doing too much, you probably should get the boat professionally surveyed just for your own safety. The boat could have a negative value, meaning it could cost more to put into safe condition than you can possibly sell it for.

It is unlikely that there ever was an owners manual for that boat, let alone one that depicts wiring diagrams, piping in tubing and seacock locations for this boat. We owned a slightly earlier era Pearson and the 'owners manual' was little more than a cover letter that thanked us for buying the boat, a parts list listing options and a blurry sail plan that was stapled to a brochure for the boat. It was a different time and place.

The good news is that this is a simple enough boat that you should be able to open lockers and find all of the hoses and seacocks. Like most boats of this era, Pearson's wiring really was lousy being non-tinned, and on our Pearson began failing pretty quickly. If that boat hasn't been rewired, then, if you care about reliability, you probably have a rewiring job in your future. The good news is that you can generate a wiring diagram as you go.

Jeff


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## Sailorgary10m

Thank you for the post, prior to purchasing this boat I did have it professionally surveyed and there is no mention of bulkhead chain issues. The recommendations based on the survey were all minor in nature, otherwise I never would've purchased this boat. It is unfortunate that apparently there is no documentation of the Pearson 10M. I'm also in possession of the Pearson welcome letter option listing in the same blurry sail plan. I'll continue to explore the innards of this boat and eventually find everything I need.


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## VIEXILE

Sailorgary10m said:


> Thank you for the post, prior to purchasing this boat I did have it professionally surveyed and there is no mention of bulkhead chain issues. The recommendations based on the survey were all minor in nature, otherwise I never would've purchased this boat. It is unfortunate that apparently there is no documentation of the Pearson 10M. I'm also in possession of the Pearson welcome letter option listing in the same blurry sail plan. I'll continue to explore the innards of this boat and eventually find everything I need.


Yes, you will, and I apologize for my over exuberance w/re: the 10M. Mine was a 1973. Go to Dan Pfeiffer's site and read every page and look at the pictures. Get the book "This Old Boat." Learn your boat inside and out. Know where every wire or bit of plumbing goes. I'm pretty sure there were diagrams and an "owner's manual" years ago. A friend of mine shipped a whole fleet of them to St. Thomas in the mid 1970's and chartered them out. A properly prepared 10M can cross oceans. But it wasn't designed for that out of the box. You will find yourself reeling in almost every boat you go after, and passing. They sail amazingly well.

It's a 44 year old boat. Pearson did have owner's manuals and wiring diagrams, but the ones I've seen weren't particularly helpful. If you don't have aluminum boxes showing on the bulkheads on each side in the salon, with chainplates attached, your "surveyor" missed a critical issue with this make and model. There was a recall. Pfeiffer's site should cover it. Nothing to generally worry about, but one boat did dismast due to the chainplate configuration, which they entirely changed in mid-1975 production. Sail fast, stay safe.


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## Sailorgary10m

I'll go to the marina today to check the chainplate issue. I would be surprised if there is an issue because the previous owner took surprisingly good care of this boat. I have purchased "This Old Boat", as well as " Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual", and Don Casey's " Sailboat Maintenance Manual", as I am a bit of a perfectionist having to know everything about everything.Thanks for the advice.


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## VIEXILE

Sailorgary10m said:


> I'll go to the marina today to check the chainplate issue. I would be surprised if there is an issue because the previous owner took surprisingly good care of this boat. I have purchased "This Old Boat", as well as " Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual", and Don Casey's " Sailboat Maintenance Manual", as I am a bit of a perfectionist having to know everything about everything.Thanks for the advice.


And that's the problem. The disease. Kinda like Otto Lilienthal's quote that has affected me tremendously since I quite hang gliding years ago. It's true: "When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes skyward, for there you have been and there you will always long to return"

Same thing applies to ocean sailing. The more you know the safer you are. I figured out diesels over the years, rigging, 12V, fiberglass work. I'd sit and stare at something for a half an hour, conceptualize a plan, and get it over with.

One of my credos with each boat I bought, when I started, was "float float (make all the holes in the boat safe), go forward go forward (rigging, sails and engine)." What could sink you? A faulty valve? A valveless thru hull connection? The less holes, the better. I would punch each and every through hull and replace all of the valves and attendant water lines. I want them to work when I want them to work. I don't want to be hitting on them with a hammer (oops). I'm going to guess you have all of the old standard WC tapered plug valves. Almost 45 years of galvanic action. I'm about to jump on a 1979 Tartan 37. Every through hull comes out, and new valves go in.

As to "negative value," that happens mostly with "wish lists" and yard bills. I had the kids buy our 10M for $2500 from the Virgin Islands Fish Cops (DPNR). It had been seized by the Department for some kind of violations. Then I dumped at least another $25K into it. Sailed it for 6 or 7 years and sold it, a little worse for wear (but with a new yanmar in it), for $12,000.00. C'est la vie. C'est la bateau. Boats are never a "good investment," although I sold my Bristol 35 for $45K. The guy sailed by me in Drake Channel off Tortola and in no uncertain terms informed me that he would own the boat. I did, in fact, pretty it up quite a bit over the previous few months. But I probably didn't make anything on that one, either.

Once you get it exactly where you want it, its just a matter of checking and maintenance. You'll get the sailing part down just fine. She is such a beast close hauled, yet the tiller is quite tame on the wind. You are going to have some serious fun.


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## Sailorgary10m

Thanks for the post, I agree with your comments about flying, I used to own a Piper warrior in another life, that was like throwing money up in the air during a hurricane. I hear boats are like throwing money into the water. As of yet I haven't sailed the day and am already looking at self tailing winches (quite expensive). I guess I'm just crazy. I do have a set of plugs and a rubber mallet at the ready but I'm not quite sure where the through hulls are, I guess I'll find them when the water comes gushing in, hope that never happens.I see you like tillers, mine has a wheel, I don't think I'll be replacing anytime soon.

Stay safe, happy sailing.


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## VIEXILE

Sailorgary10m said:


> Thanks for the post, I agree with your comments about flying, I used to own a Piper warrior in another life, that was like throwing money up in the air during a hurricane. I hear boats are like throwing money into the water. As of yet I haven't sailed the day and am already looking at self tailing winches (quite expensive). I guess I'm just crazy. I do have a set of plugs and a rubber mallet at the ready but I'm not quite sure where the through hulls are, I guess I'll find them when the water comes gushing in, hope that never happens.I see you like tillers, mine has a wheel, I don't think I'll be replacing anytime soon.
> 
> Stay safe, happy sailing.


You can live without self-tailers. None of my previous boats had them. The cleat behind the winches works just fine for hanging onto the bitter end, just don't "hard" cleat it so you can release quickly if you want. The T37 I'm currently looking at has self tailers. I used to race on a big boat that had electric self tailers.

AS TO THRU HULLS: Forward you will have through hulls to port for water in (head) sink drain out. Sink is usually connected to fresh water tank (in). Under the port settee you will have the head drain valve, which will have a high loop (or should) inside the cabinet in the head. Realistically, there will be a Y Valve somewhere in that for diversion to a holding tank.

You will have a sink drain off the galley, which may drain to one of the cockpit scuppers or drain independently elsewhere. You will have one larger valve on each scupper port and starboard. AND you will have a raw water intake valve somewhere close to the forward end of the engine. Your bilge pump(s) should run to high loops at the transom and out. I did have one that ran out high on the port side, as I recall. I always had an automatic 500 and an additional 1500 with a switch mounted a little higher, with a "manual" switch at the companionway as well "just in case."

By the way -the cockpit scuppers should CROSS each to the other side of the boat to their respective valves. Less water in the cockpit on heel, and they drain properly.

Oh, and you'll have thru hulls without valves on them for any transducers (knot, log, depth).


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## Sailorgary10m

Thanks for the reply, I'm sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, as I was called out of the country on an emergency Thanks to your information I found most of the seacock's. I took the boat out this weekend for the first time it was exhilarating. I've completed asa 101 and am now preparing for the 103 course.

As you told me sailing close hauled was a blast. Hope you aren't affected by the hurricane.Happy sailing.


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## olson34

If not done already, re-bed all of the stanchion bases. You may have to replace some wet core from underneath. In that era Pearson was using "rubber gaskets" under the bases. That material broke down and regularly let water seep in. 
While it proved to be a terrible idea, it probably sounded great when the gasket salesman dazzled them with the labor hours and tubes of sealant they could save on each boat. (sigh)

Do not replace those "gaskets."


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## sailodr

Nice choice in a 10M! I own a Pearson 323 and have a lot of admiration for Pearson Yachts but have not had the pleasure of sailing a 10M. The specifications sound great - and it had a tall mast option too! As a Pearson webmaster I have not come across a 10M manual. I have heard that many sections of the manual are common to different models, but the diagrams are swapped for the appropriate boat. There are some electrical diagrams and rig diagrams out on the 10M site and we have a P323 1978 owners manual on Pearson323.com that could be useful for some things such as checklists, common systems, etc.

By the way we have published a new Pearson site: PearsonYachts.org and our work-in-progress is to re-publish a lot of the original Pearson documentation. You will find many links there to active Pearson sites and archival sites. Take a virtual cruise and register your boat at: PearsonYachts.org


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## bblument

Thanks so much.. I've been looking for the Owner's Guide ever since I bought my P26 about six years ago. Your site has it! Now I can tell EXACTLY what ridiculous "improvements" the previous owners made to the wiring!


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## Sal Paradise

I really like the lines of the Pearson 10M - posts some pics of her. Good luck


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## RichH

olson34 said:


> If not done already, re-bed all of the stanchion bases. You may have to replace some wet core from underneath. In that era Pearson was using "rubber gaskets" under the bases. That material broke down and regularly let water seep in.
> While it proved to be a terrible idea, it probably sounded great when the gasket salesman dazzled them with the labor hours and tubes of sealant they could save on each boat. (sigh)
> 
> Do not replace those "gaskets."


The (damnable) Pearson "stanchion gaskets" were intended not only to seal the balsa core; but probably also, to allow some 'give' (cushion) to the ultra-thin top deck that covered the balsa deck core. The 'give' was probably intended to prevent breaking/splitting of the ultra-thin top deck that covers the balsa core when the stanchions are side-loaded'.

So, if you remove those gaskets you probably should consider to remove the rotted balsa coring under those stanchion bases and fill the space with solid (with very slow cure epoxy to prevent an epoxy 'foam out' !!!!) chopped fiber filled epoxy mush. 
In all practicability, if you remove the gaskets and only use caulk to seal, any side force on the stanchion will transmit tremendous leveraged forces to that thin 'top layer' of the decking, causing it to split/break. 
For cosmetic purposes, Ive found that cutting into the Pearson decking from the bottom or 'underside' of the deck, completely removing the core, cleaning out any accumulated rot in the balsa, extending the fill area by several inches in all directions ... is a sound structural way to do this. If you only dig out the (usual) rot through the OEM stanchion bore holes and not scrupulously clean out the remnants of rotted balsa, you'll probably not get a proper water tight seal when filling that void from the removed balsa core. ..... one hell of a job!!!


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## bblument

RichH said:


> The (damnable) Pearson "stanchion gaskets"..........If you only dig out the (usual) rot through the OEM stanchion bore holes and not scrupulously clean out the remnants of rotted balsa, you'll probably not get a proper water tight seal when filling that void from the removed balsa core. ..... one hell of a job!!!


Thank you, Voice of Doom.  I've got some pretty good cracking around a few of the stanchions on my P26, and have been using the tried-and-true "avoidance" and "denial" methods of dealing with the issue. The idea of going in from underneath doesn't appeal to the meatball version of finish work that usually results from my current skill levels of epoxy (beginner, but a little) and gel coat (none, and very afraid). Plus I'd still need to do something above to fix all of the hairline spider cracks.

accckkk..... Oh well. One more thing to learn to do, I guess. I've finally figured out a good wiring plan, the stove project is going well. Might as well learn how to gel coat. Sigh.

Any ENCOURAGING words out there?


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## LameBMX

I learned a good word I should probably share here. B.O.A.T. aka Break Out Another Thousand!


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