# Galley counter top material



## sailmichelle (Sep 28, 2012)

Has anyone ever used Starboard for counter top material? Would love some feedback on this..


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Too expensive and cuts/slices too easy. I'd think it would mar way to easy from chopping and hot pots. 
For the money a good laminate would be better, and if weight doesn't matter I'd go with a thin stone or other top.


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

Agree with chucklesR: Starboard is too soft. Thin Corian would be better,but our 22 yr. old boat has laminate and it still looks good. You need to use cutting boards, in any case and a trivet or potholder if you need to place a hot pot, no matter what kind of plastic surface, if you want it to stay in good shape.


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## SlowButSteady (Feb 17, 2010)

Laminate (Formica, et cetera) is probably best. Corian is pretty heavy.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Agreed, starboard is not good countertop material. If its a do-it-yourself project, I recommend going to Home Depot or similar and see what scraps they have available from a recent home installation. Could be anything from formica, to corian to stone, or even the thin fake corian laminated to plywood. Often, they are more than big enough to do a boat galley. If you do use something that has a wooden back, I would seal it with penetrating epoxy.


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## SlowButSteady (Feb 17, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> Agreed, starboard is not good countertop material. If its a do-it-yourself project, I recommend going to Home Depot or similar and see what scraps they have available from a recent home installation. Could be anything from formica, to corian to *stone*, or even the thin fake corian laminated to plywood. Often, they are more than big enough to do a boat galley. If you do use something that has a wooden back, I would seal it with penetrating epoxy.


Ummm....

A slab of stone, 100-200 lbs (or more?) of added weight, several feet above the boat's ballast and maybe off-center.

Does anyone else see a problem here?


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

SlowButSteady said:


> Ummm....
> 
> A slab of stone, 100-200 lbs (or more?) of added weight, several feet above the boat's ballast and maybe off-center.
> 
> Does anyone else see a problem here?


Granite weighs somewhere between 10 and 15 lbs per square foot. Depends on how much galley counter top you have, but I've seen it in many boats. I'm not necessarily advocating for it. Ours, at over 20 tons, wouldn't even know it was there. However, we have corian.


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## sailmichelle (Sep 28, 2012)

Thanks everyone for the feedback.. Exactly what I needed....So between Formica and Laminate not sure I know the difference? Anything I need to ask for to get a better quality?
THANKS again everyone!!


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## msmith10 (Feb 28, 2009)

Formica is just a brand name for laminate.


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## SlowButSteady (Feb 17, 2010)

msmith10 said:


> Formica is just a brand name for laminate.


Yep. Formica does seem to be one of the best, if not _the_ best, brands of laminate. However, as far as I can tell, the difference in quality among the best brands is pretty minimal. Go to you local Home-Depot/Lowes/whatever and take a look. They usually a basic selection in stock, and you can always order whatever color you want. I would stick to a solid color, rather than a pattern, as patterns almost always look too busy in a small space (like a boat galley).


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

Also try some local kitchen/bathroom cabinet shops. Bib box stores don't build any of that stuff, just sub it out for build and install. In bigger towns to local cabinet manufacurer. Whenever possible, go to the source.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

SlowButSteady said:


> Ummm....
> 
> A slab of stone, 100-200 lbs (or more?) of added weight, several feet above the boat's ballast and maybe off-center.
> 
> Does anyone else see a problem here?


I'd snicker audibly if there were any of these on board:
* Cored panels
* Carbon fiber anything
* High modulus lines
* High modulus sail fabric
* Mattresses lacking inner springs
But perhaps my priorities are misplaced.

I've had both laminate and gelcoat. My PDQ has gelcoat over a cored panel, which seems smart. Both did fine in the long run. Heck, they last through decades of daily home use, generally going out of style before wearing out.


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

SlowButSteady said:


> Yep. Formica does seem to be one of the best, if not _the_ best, brands of laminate. However, as far as I can tell, the difference in quality among the best brands is pretty minimal.


Ooooh, I disagree with that second statement. We had some kitchen work done and failed to specify "Formica" brand and the crap we got was a real PITA. Stained if you look cross eyed at it and scratched very easily. Even doing cross word puzzles in the newspaper left stains. 
One of the best kept secrets is butcher block. Doesn't weigh much more than 1.5 inches of ply plus formica, is easily sealed with tung oil, which can be renewed and is easily restored with light sanding and re-oiling.


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## sailmichelle (Sep 28, 2012)

SlowButSteady said:


> msmith10 said:
> 
> 
> > Formica is just a brand name for laminate.
> ...


thank you both.. appreciate your help!


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

I bought enough type 316 stainless to cover my galley counters for $13 , from a scrapyard. If you find restaurant stainless in a scrapyard, sometimes you can find it with a galley sink molded right in . You can put anything hot directly on it, with no worries. Best counter top available . Restaurants have figured that out long ago.


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## CapnBones (Sep 20, 2010)

Brent Swain said:


> I bought enough type 316 stainless to cover my galley counters for $13 , from a scrapyard. If you find restaurant stainless in a scrapyard, sometimes you can find it with a galley sink molded right in . You can put anything hot directly on it, with no worries. Best counter top available . Restaurants have figured that out long ago.


Any pics? It sounds awfully industrial, but I work in a machine shop so there is more stainless laying about then you can shake a stick at, so it would be dang easy to just slap on top of the existing laminate(yellow yuck).


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

CapnBones said:


> Any pics? It sounds awfully industrial.....


It sure is. The kitchen in a restaurant is designed to be efficient and clean, not homey. Dents and scratches are part of the territory.

While not advised, you can put laminate on top of laminate, particularly if the edges are covered with a fiddle.


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

formica gets dings and gouges easily--was used extensively in the 50s-70s in tract housing. is a pita, as it isnt durable and not beautiful for quality work. is a poor tribute to the builders who used the cheapo materials to save dough and offer boats at mid income pricing. 
i will mebbe go to corian or granite, as that extra weight is not a problem with my heavy displacement cruiser. maybe be impractical on a racing boat, but this aint that....


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

I have some pink Corina from remodeling the kitchen. If you want a hunk, pm me and
we will work something out. I think the problem with any of the thick counter top materials, Corian, granite, soapstone, ect is the additional work around the sink, faucet, icebox and stove as well as the fids. The stainless steel approach is practical as well as functional but a bit cold aesthetically IMHO.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I would not say that laminate scratches or dings easily, but certainly more easily than stone or corian. Best to use light colors that won't show minor abrasion. The real problem is, if you do scratch it, you have to live with it.

They do make some laminate patterns that don't look as 60s as they used to.


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

CapnBones said:


> Any pics? It sounds awfully industrial, but I work in a machine shop so there is more stainless laying about then you can shake a stick at, so it would be dang easy to just slap on top of the existing laminate(yellow yuck).


People viewing the round the world racing yachts said they also look very "Industrial." They look "industrial" because "Industrial" is what works, as opposed to "decorative," which has far more liabilities. Looking "Industrial' can also be interpreted as looking "Practical" or looking "Intelligent" or "Realistic" as opposed to looking "Pretentious."


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

i found over time since 1956, when i began noticing the counter tops in mommas house that formica is an inferior product from 1950s that equates with inavbility to cleanand keep clean and stains happen and do not come out and the dings and open sores made with pots and pans..ugly stuff. was made for cheap kitchens in tract homes and v=brought to boatdom by cheapest builders. 
if ye dont believe it dings and comes apart and stains a lot more than other surfaces, then hit it a few times with a decent pot or pan or a baseball bat, lik emomma did when we bought our house in ny..she hit it to see if it stood up to her kids. it did not. mpmma had tiles placed by 1958. bought house in 1954. no tlong to last, methinks, for a large investment, one would think the surface would not be levittown quality.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

Captainmeme said:


> I have some pink Corina from remodeling the kitchen. If you want a hunk, pm me and
> we will work something out. I think the problem with any of the thick counter top materials, Corian, granite, soapstone, ect is the additional work around the sink, faucet, icebox and stove as well as the fids. The stainless steel approach is practical as well as functional but a bit cold aesthetically IMHO.


Most of the synthetics like Corian can be worked with with normal wood working tools abet carbide bits. Routers make quick work of holes for faucets and sinks. Though they are available in different thicknesses. For a boater the epoxy glues should not be much different than working with fiberglass.



zeehag said:


> i found over time since 1956, when i began noticing the counter tops in mommas house that formica is an inferior product from 1950s that equates with inavbility to cleanand keep clean and stains happen and do not come out and the dings and open sores made with pots and pans..ugly stuff. was made for cheap kitchens in tract homes and v=brought to boatdom by cheapest builders.
> if ye dont believe it dings and comes apart and stains a lot more than other surfaces, then hit it a few times with a decent pot or pan or a baseball bat, lik emomma did when we bought our house in ny..she hit it to see if it stood up to her kids. it did not. mpmma had tiles placed by 1958. bought house in 1954. no tlong to last, methinks, for a large investment, one would think the surface would not be levittown quality.


Zee, I think in the last 50 years they may have improved it just a bit. I just put in an offer on a house though that was built in 1958 and has the original counter tops and they look new. Very ugly but look new. I don't think they had very much use as it is a two bedroom house likely no kids. Current owner was an elderly lady. But in my "newer" houses I have never had any modern laminate counter top get any significant damage except one guest that decided to cut a lime for drinks without a cutting board, but that was real abuse with an extremely sharp knife.


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

the formica that was used in this boat is crap--white, badly stained, and holes and dents and nicks. i like the idea of ss countertops--or granite, as i can stand the weight on this boat
btw--my boat is a 1976.
my ericson has butcher block formica--is a 1979--that stuff cracks and peels, but isnt as bad as this white stuff is.


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## s/v vamoose (Oct 5, 2012)

We have corian and it seems to hold up well


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Brent Swain said:


> People viewing the round the world racing yachts said they also look very "Industrial." They look "industrial" because "Industrial" is what works, as opposed to "decorative," which has far more liabilities. Looking "Industrial' can also be interpreted as looking "Practical" or looking "Intelligent" or "Realistic" as opposed to looking "Pretentious."


How about "warm" & "comfortable" instead of "cold" & "sterile".

I don't know anyone who would like their personal boat to look like a Volvo 70 down below. Even the Volvo racers are more than happy to get off those things. That sort of environment is something one puts up with as a tradeoff for racing performance, not a choice anyone welcomes as a preference.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

SloopJonB said:


> How about "warm" & "comfortable" instead of "cold" & "sterile".
> 
> I don't know anyone who would like their personal boat to look like a Volvo 70 down below. Even the Volvo racers are more than happy to get off those things. That sort of environment is something one puts up with as a tradeoff for racing performance, not a choice anyone welcomes as a preference.


I have to admit I like Stainless Steel counters, perhaps from my restaurant background, makes me feel at home. For me it has a kind of 1950's feel to it.


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

ss counters would mean being able to chop/mince and slice stuff easily without a cutting board.....easy clean and no 5 yr change out..LOL


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

zeehag said:


> ss counters would mean being able to chop/mince and slice stuff easily without a cutting board.....easy clean and no 5 yr change out..LOL


Not really - they get badly scratched up and the knives get quickly dulled. Commercial kitchens have lots of cutting boards around.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

I have butcher block counters in my house (Ikea). Generally we like them but you can't set anything ferrous on them or there will be a permanent stain. Regular tin can? Circular stain. US dime? Circular stain. Cast iron pot lid? Circular stain. 

The above stains are actually the only ones we have since we've gotten careful with not putting ferrous metals on the counter. Problem is if you let someone else cook in your kitchen....

What I'd like to use when I re-do my boat's galley is use copper flashing over plywood. I've seen several restaurants that use copper for their table tops and I think it looks great! Seem to me that it would have all the utility of restaurant stainless but look much more ship-like and homey. Copper is antibacterial on contact as well....

MedSailor


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

MedSailor said:


> I have butcher block counters in my house (Ikea). Generally we like them but you can't set anything ferrous on them or there will be a permanent stain. Regular tin can? Circular stain. US dime? Circular stain. Cast iron pot lid? Circular stain.
> 
> The above stains are actually the only ones we have since we've gotten careful with not putting ferrous metals on the counter. Problem is if you let someone else cook in your kitchen....
> 
> ...


Copper has a lot of bad taste it can add to food. Note how copper pots are only copper on the OUTSIDE where the food doesn't contact it. It's also toxic - that's why they put so much of it in bottom paint.


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## SlowButSteady (Feb 17, 2010)

SloopJonB said:


> Copper has a lot of bad taste it can add to food. Note how copper pots are only copper on the OUTSIDE where the food doesn't contact it. It's also toxic - that's why they put so much of it in bottom paint.


Copper bowls are routinely used by cooks and bakers for whipping eggs and egg whites. Copper kettles are also used in candy making, among other things. And I do believe that these bad boys have just a tiny bit of copper in them:









Copper is toxic, to *marine invertebrates*. That's why it's used in bottom paint. However, unless one inhales copper dust, it's pretty safe for *humans* to touch, handle, hold, and even fondle metallic copper. Just ask anyone who has ever handled a penny.


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## dacap06 (Feb 2, 2008)

Do you mean flashing used in roofing? Copper is a soft, ductile metal, flashing is particularly so and is thin for easy bending to conform to corners. I expect you'll have a problem with denting if you use it. If you really want to use copper, then get something thicker and harder than pure copper. I'd take a look at Beryllium Copper alloys since they are both harder and resist corrosion.

There's also the issue of cost and availability. I would expect to pay around $100 a square foot for 1/8" copper sheet, more for a sheet of Beryllium Copper alloy.

I'd recommend using aluminum instead. It is widely available in a number of sizes and thicknesses. I would use 1/8 or 3/64 sheets to resist denting. This page from The Metal Store online catalog shows you the price of various sizes of 3/64" smooth aluminum sheet. 24" x 36" x 3/64 is under $30.00 US, while the same size in 1/8" (the thickness of aluminum deck plate) is $67.00 US. The metal store is just an easy-to-find example from Googling. There are lots of other places to choose from -- doubtless some are cheaper than this.

Tom


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## wingNwing (Apr 28, 2008)

Laminate in a granite pattern; pix here:Life Afloat Archives: Small-Space Living ... Afloat This was done 5 years ago and we've lived aboard, full-time, ever since. Trivets and cutting boards are a must, but overall, this has been a very durable, easy-care solution. Inexpensive, and comes in a vast array of color and pattern.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Copper bar tops look nice, but they are always dented. I've seen them intentionally distressed when installed, so the inevitable denting blends. The tell tale, dimpled half moon impression from a beer bottle base are common, once the public has at one. I would assume, you would get the same aboard.

Maybe the copper is just polished, but they seem to have a sealant on them. I've never seen one turn green from all the moisture, which makes me think they are sealed.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

dacap06 said:


> Do you mean flashing used in roofing? Copper is a soft, ductile metal, flashing is particularly so and is thin for easy bending to conform to corners. I expect you'll have a problem with denting if you use it. If you really want to use copper, then get something thicker and harder than pure copper. I'd take a look at Beryllium Copper alloys since they are both harder and resist corrosion.
> 
> There's also the issue of cost and availability. I would expect to pay around $100 a square foot for 1/8" copper sheet, more for a sheet of Beryllium Copper alloy.
> 
> ...


Boy, youse guys are sure desperate to avoid good old practical, cheap & easy laminate. 

One of the best looking countertops IMHO is a black suede finish laminate. Costs about $50 for a fairly big galley.

You can also get laminate with S/S. aluminium and copper finishes - actual metal foil laminated on the top surface.


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## Ninefingers (Oct 15, 2009)

I installed stainless panels next to my cooktop in my house 10 years ago. The are inlaid into the wood countertop, also 10 years old. The idea was to have a place to place pots without scratching or burning the wood top. Well, that worked, sort of. The stainless would heat up so much that it would expand and then "pop' itself out of the inlay it was glued into.

So if you do overlay your existing top with stainless, don't glue it and allow for expansion should you leave a hot pot on it.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Copper is available in all kinds of thicknesses. My local restaurant has tables that are made of pretty thick stuff and not dented. It's probably 1/16" or more. You would need tools and force to dent it.

Copper Sheet, Copper Flashing, Copper Sheets, Copper Foil Rolls, Copper Sheeting for Arts and Crafts and Various Applications These guys seem to have it all including a thickness guide with a video showing you the flexibility of different thicknesses.

As for the toxicity issue... remember everything is toxic. The poison is in the dose. The "toxicity" is actually a plus because it is antibacterial. So the salmonella from the raw chicken I put on the counter might not linger there if I don't clean it up well enough.

As for the taste issue, France (where they KNOW food) has lots of copper pots in use for various specialty cooking applications. Most of the time though I would be cutting food on a wooden cutting board anyway so if I set my food on the counter for a minute or two I don't think it'll affect the taste.

MedSailor


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## flyingriki (Sep 27, 2012)

zeehag said:


> ss counters would mean being able to chop/mince and slice stuff easily without a cutting board.....easy clean and no 5 yr change out..LOL


Pretty hard on knives,,,,,,


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

Another alternative is soapstone (saratoga soapstone) kinda in between a corian and granite, very elegant looking


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## copacabana (Oct 1, 2007)

poopdeckpappy said:


> Another alternative is soapstone (saratoga soapstone) kinda in between a corian and granite, very elegant looking


But very soft I would imagine.

One of the advantages of granite is that it is very hard, making it pretty much scratch proof and long lasting. I'm thinking of going with granite when I re-do my galley. It's very cheap in Brazil (starting at USD100 per 10 sq. feet, installed).


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## MysticGringo (Oct 9, 2006)

Has anybody tried a liquid glass like product? It's the clear epoxy you see on bar and table tops at restaurants. You can embed all sorts of things prior to pouring. 

Cutting boards become necessary.


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## SlowButSteady (Feb 17, 2010)

poopdeckpappy said:


> Another alternative is soapstone (saratoga soapstone) kinda in between a corian and granite, very elegant looking


Soapstone varies quite a bit in composition, but it can be very soft: as low as about 2 on the Moh scale (fingernails, 2.5 Mohs, can scratch it). However, the soapstone used for countertops is usually a bit harder, at around 4 to 5 Mohs (slightly harder than Corian, which is usually about 3.5 Mohs). Still pretty easily scratched, particularly in a place as busy as a sailboat cabin.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

copacabana said:


> ...One of the advantages of granite is that it is very hard, making it pretty much scratch proof and long lasting. I'm thinking of going with granite when I re-do my galley. It's very cheap in Brazil (starting at USD100 per 10 sq. feet, installed).


Nothing is perfect. Granite is also porous and must be sealed (and maintained) or it can be permanently stained.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

MysticGringo said:


> Has anybody tried a liquid glass like product? It's the clear epoxy you see on bar and table tops at restaurants.....


I applied this to a bar top in my rec room at a previous house. It is easily scratched. Coasters, placemats, etc were needed religiously. If you look at one in a bar, they are hazed over by the scratching, although, don't look too bad. I'm also certain they can't take much heat.

Installation is probably the tougher part, unless you can remove your counter tops from the boat. They need to be perfectly level, and I mean perfectly. The stuff seeks a level and the slightest imperfection will be noticed over the length of a counter. No way any of our boats are that level. The advantage, however, is that the fids will provide a natural barrier to hold the stuff in place. Letting it run over the edge is very difficult to get right.


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## copacabana (Oct 1, 2007)

Minnewaska, I've never had a granite counter at home stain, but I suppose it's possible. Marble is porous and stains easily. Granite (at least the Brazilian stuff) stands up to a lot of punishment and keeps looking great. The weight is a bit of an issue on a boat though ...


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

Corian, marble and granite cannot take a hot pan right out of the oven or off the burner. If you need this capability look at the synthetic granites; stilestone or caesar stone. The color and detail variations are enormous and can be templated to fit the unusual shapes and dimensions of a sailboat. It is incredibly strong and very easy to clean up. It is price competitive with granite and more so if you go looking for decorator granite. The only draw back is its weight, which is only important on a smaller boat like mine.


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## MysticGringo (Oct 9, 2006)

Minnewaska said:


> I applied this to a bar top in my rec room at a previous house. It is easily scratched. Coasters, placemats, etc were needed religiously. If you look at one in a bar, they are hazed over by the scratching, although, don't look too bad. I'm also certain they can't take much heat.
> 
> Installation is probably the tougher part, unless you can remove your counter tops from the boat. They need to be perfectly level, and I mean perfectly. The stuff seeks a level and the slightest imperfection will be noticed over the length of a counter. No way any of our boats are that level. The advantage, however, is that the fids will provide a natural barrier to hold the stuff in place. Letting it run over the edge is very difficult to get right.


Cool. I wonder if there are different versions with different levels of hardness. A few I've seen still remain pretty clear. One I saw said it'd withstand 270 degrees without marring or staining... so not hot pan or pot, but definitely coffee or plate worthy.

My galley is pretty tiny, so I'm not worried about seeing it out of level for a portion... but the chances of getting the boat to stop swaying back and forth during installation is pretty slim. I may try it and do a write up.


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

Granite can't take the heat? Huh?!?

One of the reasons for granite as a countertop material is that it CAN take the heat of a 400º pan without a problem...
HowStuffWorks "How Granite Countertops Work"


> ... Formed ov*er millions of years from compressed molten rock under the Earth's surface, granite is extremely hard and durable.
> 
> With its heat-resistant qualities, granite doesn't blister; it's also unlikely to scratch or chip. When used for kitchen countertops, it's far superior to marble, synthetic and laminate...


Granite is porous, and it will stain if you place oil on it.


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

Wasn't there a thread where some of the members of this forum gave grief to a guy who lost his boat that was equipped with granite counter tops? Something about spending money on counter tops and not on essential gear. 

I'm finishing the interior of me boat. While we have granite in the kitchen and and an old corian top in the garage I'm going with high pressure plastic laminates, Formica.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

MysticGringo said:


> My galley is pretty tiny, so I'm not worried about seeing it out of level for a portion... but the chances of getting the boat to stop swaying back and forth during installation is pretty slim. I may try it and do a write up.


Why not do it when you haul for bottom paint? Just spend the time to carefully level the boat when you block it.


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

Captainmeme said:


> Wasn't there a thread where some of the members of this forum gave grief to a guy who lost his boat that was equipped with granite counter tops? Something about spending money on counter tops and not on essential gear.


Yes, Doug Sabbag of S/V Triumph. There is a thread about it in here.


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

eherlihy said:


> Granite can't take the heat? Huh?!?
> 
> One of the reasons for granite as a countertop material is that it CAN take the heat of a 400º pan without a problem...
> HowStuffWorks "How Granite Countertops Work"
> ...


Yeah, I know all that stuff about granite. I've also seen it cracked when a heavy roasting pan was put on it straight out of the oven. I've also seen it with a big chunk broken off the edge where someone hoisted themselves up on the cabinet top. Plus, it has to be maintained, not just cleaned. 
Remember, granite is full of imperfections that can be the source for cracks and chips. Plus it is ugly unless you purchase really expensive stuff.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

If you want real stone counters on a boat, granite tiles are a pretty good option. They weigh a lot less than full stone tops and if you're careful with your grout selection they are nearly indistinguishable from one piece tops, at least if you use black or dark granite with no heavy patterning.


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## MysticGringo (Oct 9, 2006)

SloopJonB said:


> Why not do it when you haul for bottom paint? Just spend the time to carefully level the boat when you block it.


Because I just put the boat back in the water 2 weeks ago from painting the bottom and didn't have the time, energy or money to do the counter tops at same time.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Granite and marble can both crack from vibration. Most builders will require you to sign a waiver if you install a garbage disposal. This can probably be limited, if you select a stone with no vein. I have jarred about every boat I've ever sailed to the point that I could loosen teeth. Stone would make me nervous.

If you've not felt like granite was stainable, I highly suspect it was already sealed.


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## SailingChance (Aug 29, 2012)

Stainless steel. May sound intimidating and expensive, but it is actually quite cheap and easy. Build a top with 1/2" plywood complete with cut outs for sink, etc. Find a local metal/steel yard (again, you;d be surprised how easy) and get 16guage stainless steel sheet. Often they will cut the pieces into your outer dimensions for you for $1 a cut. getting stainless from a metal yard is really cheap. For example, I just got 12gauge (pretty thick) 1" stainless tubing - 20' for $31.00. Compare that to anywhere else in the marine industry at $8/ft. You could probably get the whole counter for less than $100. Once you have the exterior dimensions cut and matched, you simply need to trace the openings on the underside, mark with a sharpie and cut with an angle grinder or even a dremel. There are even steel cutting blades for jig saws. Heck, the guys at the metal yard might do the whole thing for an extra $50.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

While a SS countertop isn't my thing, I wonder about grades of SS. Lower grades can and do corrode before your eyes in a marine environment.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Minnewaska said:


> While a SS countertop isn't my thing, I wonder about grades of SS. Lower grades can and do corrode before your eyes in a marine environment.


Shop with a magnet. If it's not magnetic, odds are it's 316.

MedSailor


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

MedSailor said:


> Shop with a magnet. If it's not magnetic, odds are it's 316.
> 
> MedSailor


I think lower grade SS can become magnetic, based on how its molded, but I don't think you can rely on a magnet to assure you it is 316.

I know you said, "odds are", but can't really say you would know what odds you were working with.


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## ehmanta (Sep 12, 2006)

I'm surprised no one has mentioned ceramic tiles yet. I installed mine(2" X 2" tiles) over plastic laminate about 15 years ago and they are still in great shape. They add little discernable weight, resilliant, whatever color you want and attractive. If your laminate is in sound condition, sand with 36 grit paper, use a good waterproof adhesive mastic and epoxy grout and you'll be loving life!
My grout joints have yet to crack or discolor due to it being epoxy grout.


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

copacabana:930712 said:


> poopdeckpappy said:
> 
> 
> > Another alternative is soapstone (saratoga soapstone) kinda in between a corian and granite, very elegant looking
> ...


That is why mentioned saratoga soapstone, it is specifically used in custom counter tops.


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## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Feb 19, 2012)

I built my own soapstone counters at home. Glued up a farmhouse sink and everything. 

I'd do my boat counters in a heartbeat out of soapstone. 

It is not light. But I doubt you have tons of counterspace. 

It does scratch but you just re oil it and you are good to go. Develops a great patina.

Got it from alberene soapstone south of charlottesville va. 

They also do soapstone tiles. Sad but no one in the usa can cut stone tiles. They ship their soapstone to China to be cut into tiles and ship it back. It isn't cheap. 

The soapstone countertop pieces are very reasonable all things considered and with our weird shapes and dimensions we likely would be able to use some remmnants and off cuts. 

You work it wet with diamond blades and it cuts like butter. The dust is epic! Do not do upwind of anyone you like. 

You can carve it,turn it,sand it and I do love the stuff. 

Sent from my Kindle Fire


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Minnewaska said:


> I think lower grade SS can become magnetic, based on how its molded, but I don't think you can rely on a magnet to assure you it is 316.
> 
> I know you said, "odds are", but can't really say you would know what odds you were working with.


Actually "odds are" was a manner of speech. It's the iron that rusts in lesser alloys of stainless and it's the iron that the magnet reacts to. No magnetism, no iron, no rust. It's actually a very good test, probably better even then trusting a chandlary that says it's 316. Got this trick from a Pardey book and confirmed it once with a friend who has a masters in metallurgy.

MedSailor


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

MedSailor said:


> Actually "odds are" was a manner of speech. It's the iron that rusts in lesser alloys of stainless and it's the iron that the magnet reacts to. No magnetism, no iron, no rust. It's actually a very good test, probably better even then trusting a chandlary that says it's 316. Got this trick from a Pardey book and confirmed it once with a friend who has a masters in metallurgy.
> 
> MedSailor


Med, I was trying to acknowledge that I understood what you meant by, odd are. Sorry, if I was confusing.

"No magnetism, no iron, no rust" may be helped with some clarification. All stainless steel has iron. Its only a matter of how much chromium has been added or other minerals that will affect its grade. More chromium is generally more resistant to iron oxide. Ironically, the reason it avoids iron oxide is the chromium on the surface actually oxidizes (rusts) in the presence of air first. The layer is so small, you just don't see it. As a protective layer it prevents the iron from oxidizing. This is also why SS, including 316, that is not exposed to air will decay, as the iron does begin to rust without its chromium oxide protection.

While 316 is highly resistant to magnetism, lower grades may become magnetic, but are not inherently magnetic. Your buddy with the degree in metallurgy would be able to explain better than I, but magnetism is the result of the alignment of the molecules, not just the presence of iron. When you mix other minerals, you change that alignment, just like you do when you heat a metal. When you mix chromium with iron, I understand you realign the molecules to a lesser, imperceptible magnetic state.

I understand it is possible, with lesser grade SS and lesser chromium to recondition it to be magnetic, depending on how it is processed into a screw or fitting. I also understand that it can also be heated and returned to non-magnetic.

In the end, this was always my rule of thumb. If a magnet does not stick, it is stainless, you just don't know the grade. If a magnet does stick, it is not a high grade stainless, if stainless at all.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Minnewaska said:


> All stainless steel has iron. Its only a matter of how much chromium has been added or other minerals that will affect its grade. ....
> 
> ...Your buddy with the degree in metallurgy would be able to explain better than I, but magnetism is the result of the alignment of the molecules, not just the presence of iron.
> 
> In the end, this was always my rule of thumb. If a magnet does not stick, it is stainless, you just don't know the grade. If a magnet does stick, it is not a high grade stainless, if stainless at all.


Right! Thanks for the clarification. Of course all stainless *steel *has iron it it or else how could it be steel at all? I'm not sure what I was thinking when I wrote that. As for magnetism being a complex process, I do recall THE most boring lecture I EVER attended was a college level physics lecture on magnetism. That was a long time ago and obviously I wasn't paying much attention.

My metalurgist friend said that I could use the magnetic trick to verify that something was 316. I'll have to run that last paragraph of yours by him and see what he says....

MedSailor


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