# Perkins 4.154 Crank Pulley removal



## TYLERWCOM (Jan 23, 2012)

I am trying to remove one or both of the front mounted crankshaft pulleys to replace with a serpentine belt for a larger alternator.
Looking at the front of the engine the first pulley (.5 inch Vee) has three bolts going through it, the next pulley is larger in diameter and has four bolts going through it.
How can I get one or both of the pulleys off the crankshaft?
The engine is a 1990 Perkins 4.154 or GA 00007-J13353 U 4-154-200 Series.
I heard they are cast iron and break easily.....HELP.


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## dacap06 (Feb 2, 2008)

You intrigued me with your question so I did a bit of searching.

The Shop Manual and the Parts Manual are both available on line for the Perkins 4.154 engine. Download these two PDF files for future reference.

The shop manual on page 10 of 108 (page number is 9) shows the set up fairly clearly. There's a center bolt that affixes the crankshaft pulley to a keyed crankshaft. I infer from your picture, the aforementioned page, and the picture on page 15 of 52 in the parts manual that the power take off pulley is bolted on top of the crankshaft pulley.

My guess is that if you undo the bolts on your outer pulley and remove it, then you should have access to that center bolt. Good luck!

Tom


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## TYLERWCOM (Jan 23, 2012)

Thanks, Tom.

The manual the previous owner provided with the boat did not show this detail.
Thanks for the manual online !!

Now I just need to find a replacement crankshaft pulley with serpentine belt grooves instead of the standard V-belt groove.

I will post pictures of the project for other owners wishing to upgrade.
I am also going to replace the fresh water pump as a preventative measure since the current one was installed in 1990 when the engine was new.

Tyler
S/V Dorado
Pearson 390 hull number 37


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## sea_hunter (Jul 26, 2000)

My guess you're adding a Balmar alternator? As you're replacing the pulleys for the serpentine kit, you'll only need the "V" for the raw water pump. Remove all the bolts and apply some heat. Use a damp cold water rag to quench the pulley and repeat. Tap it as it cools down with a small ball peen hammer. Add more heat and use the puller to remove.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Do you need to change over to a serpentine system - big expense, tensioner is another potential problem to stop the engine far from home etc. . How about just changing to a quality cogged belt? They transmit a lot more power and run on v-belt pulleys. Made a BIG difference to my table saw.


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## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

according to various sources, the 4.154 shouldn't have more than a 100 amp alternator. Too much loading on the bearings. You don't need a bigger belt for 100 amps. Run your idea past the perkins experts, TransAtlantic Diesel. they may have some good advice and/or parts you might need.


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## sea_hunter (Jul 26, 2000)

xort said:


> according to various sources, the 4.154 shouldn't have more than a 100 amp alternator. Too much loading on the bearings. You don't need a bigger belt for 100 amps. Run your idea past the perkins experts, TransAtlantic Diesel. they may have some good advice and/or parts you might need.


I don't know what sources xort is commenting upon; our 154 runs just fine with a 200 amp Balmar twin post and has done so so 5 years. Now that's a documented source. There are many Perkins experts and TAD sell the pulley kit for the 154 as well. The 154 is twice the engine as the 108-7 and almost 4 X better than many replacements as the 154 is a CD rated engine @3000 RPM. The Cummins and the Yanmar are ID engines rated 40% lower than the 154 which TAD recommends against installing a big case alternator. This is one of the main reasons I'm not choosing a Cummins for a choice as a repower. Make sure the belt is adjusted correctly as not to load up the FW pump too much.



SloopJonB said:


> Do you need to change over to a serpentine system - big expense, tensioner is another potential problem to stop the engine far from home etc. . How about just changing to a quality cogged belt? They transmit a lot more power and run on v-belt pulleys. Made a BIG difference to my table saw.


There is NO tensioner with the 154 serpentine belt, only an idler pulley. And yes it is a requirement as big cased alternators require a lot of umph to turn; without the serpentine, they'll just squeal like a pig. My thoughts are that you don't own a 62 HP table saw.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

https://store.electromaax.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=38


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Not sure if this helps. We installed an electromax with smart regulator. They have pully kits for all enghines on their site. Was recopmmended by Mainsail over Balmar.

https://store.electromaax.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=38

Dave


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

sea_hunter said:


> There is NO tensioner with the 154 serpentine belt, only an idler pulley. And yes it is a requirement as big cased alternators require a lot of umph to turn; without the serpentine, they'll just squeal like a pig. My thoughts are that you don't own a 62 HP table saw.


 Indeed I don't (it IS a brute though). I've never seen a serpentine system without a powerful spring loaded tensioner - the one on my wife's minivan requires a breaker bar to unload the tension. How is tension maintained on the belt on the system you describe?


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## sea_hunter (Jul 26, 2000)

SloopJonB said:


> Indeed I don't (it IS a brute though). I've never seen a serpentine system without a powerful spring loaded tensioner - the one on my wife's minivan requires a breaker bar to unload the tension. How is tension maintained on the belt on the system you describe?


Yes automotive serpentine belts require a loaded tensioner, the ones used on marine engines employing large case alternators do not. The belt goes around ALL the drive pulleys, but underneath the idler pulley. The tension is loaded with the alternator adjusting arm. The main reason it's done this way is that marine diesel engines don't operate at variable and higher engine RPMs (therefore no backlash that causes the belt to "jump") like automotive engines. Hope that helps.
:thewave:


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

sea_hunter said:


> Yes automotive serpentine belts require a loaded tensioner, the ones used on marine engines employing large case alternators do not. The belt goes around ALL the drive pulleys, but underneath the idler pulley. The tension is loaded with the alternator adjusting arm. The main reason it's done this way is that marine diesel engines don't operate at variable and higher engine RPMs (therefore no backlash that causes the belt to "jump") like automotive engines. Hope that helps.
> :thewave:


Thanks - good to know.


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## TYLERWCOM (Jan 23, 2012)

I have been stuck in this project because I decided to proactively replace the water pump since I had the front of the engine mostly apart.

Perkins had TWO versions of the 4.154. One they made and one that Mazda made under license. My engine number is A07_J13352U. The J means Japan and that means Mazda.

A good engine was made by Mazda I was told. But it is NOT the usual North American version with North American Accessories. The manual posted earlier in this link has the INCORRECT water pump part number listed as U5NW0053 (hand written) corrected to U5MW0053 (still not correct for a Japan engine). The good part number is 136315100A (Mazda) I have seen this NA version manual, with the hand written pump number, posted all over the web

I removed the entire water pump casting and took my manuals (also North American) to the Perkins dealer. One of them spotted the J in the engine number and said, "you have the Mazda version!"

A day later I had the perfect drop in pump unit !! 
(learned more about Perkins than I wanted to, but now I know I have the Japanese version.)

Now on the the alternator project...


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## sea_hunter (Jul 26, 2000)

Yeah, that's an oddball for sure. I know the license built Perkins 4.154, it was imported into Canada in the Mazda B trucks and the Ford Ranger in the mid 80's. It's pretty much the same engine but with Mazda specific externals. What heat exchanger does it use? Just for future reference, ALL the Perkins part number beginning with *USN* or *USM*, are invalid. Since Cat bought Perkins, all part numbers have numerical references.


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## dacap06 (Feb 2, 2008)

I'm sorry to have misled you with the manuals. It wasn't intentional. Looks like we have ALL learned something!


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