# Beneteau hull liner replacement.



## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

I forgot to post on this headliner replacement. Was on a Beneteau first 305. I did it a few years back but just now getting to adding it here.

The 80's Bene's used a foam backed vinyl for the liner and in short order the foam would separate from the vinyl and start sagging. 


















I used lightweight hull liner from Sailrite and 3M 8090 super trim adhesive. Basically I removed all of the existing vinyl liner and used those parts as templates. I had a good pair of 9 inch scissors and a 25x25 tarp. One by one I would make the piece from the existing one and glue them up. In order to glue you have to spray the trim adhesive on both the material and the surface it is going to be put onto. You let the trim adhesive sit for about 2-5 minutes then you can install the piece. The whole boat took about 15 hours in total. One of the nice characteristics of the sail-rite hull blanket is that it has very low memory meaning that it does not want to spring back to flat so once you glue it in place it is content to stay there
HullBlanket Headliner Hull Liner Carpet Type - Shape Conforming









This was the end result. After 5 years the owner reports that the liner is still in fantastic shape and looks as good as it did when I installed it.


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## benesailor (Dec 27, 2012)

Very nice!

Have you had any moisture issues with that? It appears almost carpet like.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

benesailor said:


> Very nice!
> 
> Have you had any moisture issues with that? It appears almost carpet like.


It is a lot like carpet but very lightweight and breathable. No moisture issues. Breathes much better than Vinyl.


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

The whole boat only took you 15 hours???? 

Thats excellent!

You've done a great job. Well done.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

It looks good. We need to replace our vinyl head liner. It is stained and drooping in a lot of places, and hides access to the through-deck fittings. Do you remember how many yards you bought?


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## boatpoker (Jul 21, 2008)

I've never used that adhesive. Is it like contact cement ... don't get it right first time and you're screwed or can you slide it around a bit after contact ?


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

jimgo said:


> It looks good. We need to replace our vinyl head liner. It is stained and drooping in a lot of places, and hides access to the through-deck fittings. Do you remember how many yards you bought?


Not off the top of my head. I have done 3 of the jobs though. best way to do it is measure your areas and then add 10%.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

boatpoker said:


> I've never used that adhesive. Is it like contact cement ... don't get it right first time and you're screwed or can you slide it around a bit after contact ?


You do have some working time, maybe about 10 minutes before it starts to become compromised. repositioning is doable. The glue sprays out like a spider web and stays on, whatever it hits it sticks too. Wear a well fit respirator or you will get yourself very sick from fumes. Also get a good laminate roller.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

MarkofSeaLife said:


> The whole boat only took you 15 hours????
> 
> Thats excellent!
> 
> You've done a great job. Well done.


Need to clarify this. That was just for the Layup of the new material. Took another 10 hours or so to strip the old stuff and remove the foam residue from the hull.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

gedaggett said:


> Not off the top of my head. I have done 3 of the jobs though. best way to do it is measure your areas and then add 10%.


That stuff is reasonably priced but still expensive when you literally need a boatload of it.

If I was doing it, I'd remove the drooping stuff and lay it out on a 72" wide tarp - like laying out patterns on veneered plywood. Once I had them laid out to use the material most efficiently I'd know how much to order (always +10% scrap factor)

By the way, great info and nice job. 

There was an article recently in the British mag "Practical Boat Owner" about a couple re-doing their vinyl covered foam - WAY more work than this method.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

That is basically what I did but just measured in place with a regular measuring tape and a tailors measuring tape. Came out pretty well spot on though I factored 20% overage for my first one. You will use twice as much glue as you think.


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

Headlining Replacement

That is how I did the liners in my Jeanneau with the same issue. THere is a link to the head area too. Took me a bit longer. but I replaced a lot of the flat area's with vinyl cover plywood. That took a bit of shaping and cutting.

Marty


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

blt2ski said:


> Headlining Replacement
> 
> That is how I did the liners in my Jeanneau with the same issue. THere is a link to the head area too. Took me a bit longer. but I replaced a lot of the flat area's with vinyl cover plywood. That took a bit of shaping and cutting.
> 
> Marty


thanks for that...I want to do the plywood covered vynil panels for my deck undersides...the rest will be painted to access the bunch of deck hardware easily

appreciate it


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

Christian,

The plywood part works, "IF" and "where" you have a filler in the deck, ie balsa, foam etc. Otherwise the fiberglass is too thin to put screws in. 

I just used as I think the article stated some door panel plywood I got at home depot. 

Marty


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

thanks have you tried simple velcro before?...my decks are ply cored


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## socal c25 (Nov 1, 2013)

You can use Kydex instead of plywood, Kydex is heat moldable plastic, with a heatgun you can form the plastic and then cover it with padding and vinyl, industrial grad velcro will hold it in place.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

Christian, that was my thought, too. I considered industrial strength Velcro, but I think even the regular stuff would probably hold OK since it's not holding much weight.


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

The new jeanneau's are using velcro. Mine used screws. so I kept the status quo per say......

it would be worth a try.

Marty


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

awesome guys...

have been away from the boat too long...sorry for the mild hijack...awesome info and help guys

keep it up

christian


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

blt2ski said:


> Christian,
> 
> The plywood part works, "IF" and "where" you have a filler in the deck, ie balsa, foam etc. Otherwise the fiberglass is too thin to put screws in.
> 
> ...


You could epoxy on battens of wood to place screws into, they can also help level an uneven surface using shims.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

we took off all the ply battens on the roof....as I wanted to go smooth white paint and fully accesible hardware and backing plates...also since the boat is new to me I wanted to be able to check for leaks, modify or seal up holes and hardware not needed anymore easily etc...

for the deck undersides however Im thinking either straight velcro to the underside and some simple ply and vynil covers will be fine

I bought some mahogany or cherry trim for all the lines or bends that hopefully will make things look nicer

another personal issue on my boat is that I have added tie rods to the hull for the aft lowers, from deck backing plate to a place on the hull sides...and I cant have anything permanent over this, maybe 1 ply panel with a hole in the middle to cover the backing plate and then panels forward and aft of said panel

Im thinking velcro and panels are the way to go here since at least its flat...

thanks guys


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

boatpoker-
CALL 3M. There's a phone number on each can. Their different spray cements are each targeted to specific materials, so you need one that is good in heat (overheads get hot), permanent, and will work on the materials you have. Some work well on plywood, others won't. Some work on "impossible" plastics like polythene, others don't. 
It pays to call them and ask, with all the specifics at hand.

3M are great at tech support, they'll get you to an actual product engineer, not just a salesbabe, for any product, any division, any use, anywhere in the world.


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## PCP (Dec 1, 2004)

Some Polish boats use that type of solution. Good work. Well done


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

I have to admit, did not think of a filler batten. Used that option for stapling the vinyl on. I usd a cedar batten about 1/4"x2" available at thelocal lumber yard.

Marty


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## catnap (Apr 6, 2016)

By any chance did you keep the pattern, or know where I can get one. I had someone start and he went out of business 1/3 of the way (without giving me the pattern or all the old materials back). Thanks


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## Nordik (Apr 6, 2016)

I have a First 375 with the same issue - my aft cabin layout is similar to your F305. How did you do the outside corners under the cockpit sole? Did you overlap the material?


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## johnny buddha (Jan 12, 2016)

Looks great, @gedaggett!

We just bought a 1984 First 38 that still has the original headliners in the vee-berth and the main saloon - the former owners ripped out the liner in the quarter-berths and replaced the liner in the port quarter-berth using a similar technique... and left the starboard undone.

If we were closer to Illinois or you were closer to Maryland, I'd gladly hire you.


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