# Interprotect 2000e Painting Help (ASAP!!)



## bryanphaas (Jan 28, 2009)

Friendly weather has finally hit Chicago which means I can finally apply my barrier coating to my Catalina 28. 

Ive sanded her down, acetone washed her, and gotten the bottom completely ready for the new Interprotect 2000e. 

My question is, since the boat is currently in the cradle, how do you apply the barrier paint underneath the pads. 

Yes, I know to use a jack stand to lower the stand of the cradle, but since Interprotect needs the 5 coats, how do you ensure that you get the 5 coats under the pads while maintaining the barrier protection with the other coats on the rest of the hull?


My concern is that Interlux states that the maximum drying time between the final coat of interprotect and antifouling paint is 7 hours (at 70 degrees).

This means that either I resand and then apply the anti fouling (im very sick of sanding, id like to skip this step), or attempt to get the 5 layers of interprotect on within 7 hours of the rest of the boat being finished... (Impossible). 

How are you supposed to build up all 5 layers (or 10 mils thickness) under the pads, and then get the anti-fouling paint on within 7 hours?

I had originally figured on painting the visible hull, but then i realized that this becomes problematic when trying to get the anti fouling paint on as well. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

The stuff cures WAY FASTER then you will expect. mix small batches and you can do 4-5 coats where each cradle pad goes while you have stands supporting the boat. then do the rest of the hull. Did you use course grit sandpaper? Hint, apply your bottom paint as soon as possible too. it won't stick very well to 2000E if you don't .


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

Sand. After applying a layer of barrier coat paint, you won't have enough time in a day to get anti-fouling done as well anyway.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*Interprotect*

Interprotect 2000E over IP2KE has a 6 month window for a chemical bond. It is only the last & final coat of barrier that must be "thumb print" dry when you "hot coat" the bottom paint.

IP2KE kicks off quite rapidly to thumbprint dry at 70f. Mine was just done a few weeks ago indoors at 70f. We had two guys on it because we were loosing thumb print at 55-65 minutes. Thumb print dry is more important IMHO, and actually according to Interlux tech support, for adhesion of the paint to IP2KE than the suggested 7 hours in the instructions.

Rather than Acetone you should use a dedicated Dewaxer as a wipe down and also do a hull moisture check as over coating a wet hull with IP2KE is somewhat pointless. Interlux tech support told me they wanted to see a moisture content of .2 max moisture content.

You DO NOT want to sand the last layer of barrier as no matter how ell you sand you will stil have a secondary paint bond as opposed to a chemical/primary bond if hot coated. If you need to hire someone for the last day to help get the last two coats on (IP2KE & paint) do it..


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## bryanphaas (Jan 28, 2009)

Thanks everyone for your help. 
Looks like ill have to paint under the pads first. Needless to say im frustrated by this, as it will add at least a day to my project, but so it goes.... 

Shame they cant figure out a way to make boats float in things other than water :-D

I used a Interlux 202 as a solvent and dewaxer; just using the acetone as a final chemical wash. 

Ill take pictures and let everyone know how it goes!!


~b


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## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

You might find something smooth and nonsticking so the pad carpet doesn't imprint the barrier coat. I'd wait a couple of days actually. then bottom coat the pad area too while leaving an edge of barrier coat to tie in the rest. Then do the rest of the hull. Some things just can't be rushed!


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## bryanphaas (Jan 28, 2009)

Figured I would post a quick update on how today went. 

I managed to get 4 jack stands, so I was able to completely remove all the cradle pads and set the boat only on the jack pads. 

Mixed up 24 ounces at a time and just went around the boat getting 5 applications on in approximately 6 hours. This stuff dries FAST!
Thumbprint test came up clean about 30 minutes or so after application and was ready for another coat. 

Tomorrow, if the paint seems hard enough I will lower the boat back onto the cradle and see how many coats I can get on for the rest of the hull. Again, depending on time the VC-17 will come next. 

Does anyone recommend 2 coats since there is no residual from seasons prior?

Also, I used the new foam rollers. These are smaller than a typical roller, but made up of a high density foam with no nap. I found that this produced a better coat than rolling and tipping. Saved a step and looks better. Always a good thing...


Again, Ill post pictures of the process once I finish. (and get enough posts to put up pictures  )

Thanks again for all the help. 


Now only a few more projects before this neglected boat (previous owner) sees the water !!!


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## GaryHLucas (Mar 24, 2008)

I did the bottom of a Catalina 22 a little differently. (I put the stands at both ends and taped all the way across the hull at both ends between the stands. Then I painted the first coat up to the tape. I then moved the tape two inches and painted the second coat. Moved the tape 2 inches and painted again, until I had five coats. I moved the stands onto the new paint and painted five coats on the ends taping and painting the steps I could see in the previous 5 coats. The hull was nice and smooth the whole way, no pad marks, and no missed spots.

Gary H. Lucas


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## bryanphaas (Jan 28, 2009)

Here is the photo update I had promised; you can see the hull from its original poor shape all the way to now.

Picasa Web Albums - Bryan - Inclination R...

Thanks again for all the help. This forum is a treasure of a resource!!

~bryan


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*Whoa !!!!!!*



bryanphaas said:


> Here is the photo update I had promised; you can see the hull from its original poor shape all the way to now.
> 
> Picasa Web Albums - Bryan - Inclination R...
> 
> ...


Bryan,

If I may suggest... please slow down!! You are actually wasting your time, $$$ and effort if you are not removing ALL the previous paint before applying a barrier coat.

Edited: Disregard above as I see you are already done and it's too late. Next time, which there will likely be, you really need to remove all traces of old paint and get her down to the bare white gelcoat. This takes lots of time and lots of effort. There's a reason yards charge 4-10k for bottom jobs..

Applying a barrier coat over any traces of bottom paint will leave you with areas of very poor adhesion compared to the areas over bare gelcoat. It's really kind of like building a house with only the sheet rock as you need a solid foundation for the sheet rock/barrier coat to be nailed to and with paint there you just don't have it .

The bottom MUST be down to bare gelcoat for a proper bond and a quality and lasting protection layer. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you actually had a lot more work to do before the application of a barrier coat..

It definitely should NOT look like this when you are applying a barrier coat:









It should look more like this with NO paint left:


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## bryanphaas (Jan 28, 2009)

Well, I have a feeling that this is about to become an experiment in the durability of the chemical bond between Interprotect and an epoxy substrate!!
 

I had apparently gotten some bad advice; but we will see how it goes and how long the coating lasts!! Hopefully it wont be too expensive of a mistake...

It's all a learning process i suppose. Nothing to do but smile and keep on working :-D


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## Joesaila (May 19, 2007)

*But it looks nice!*

It really does. I hope it holds. My boat has a barrier coat and the previous owner used a hard bottom paint that never bonded. When we got the boat we had to scrape about 30 poounds of solid chips and then put the bottom paint on. Its been super ever since [3 years]


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