# What is the best way to Tarp a sailboat for winter



## Grampian1989 (Aug 21, 2013)

Hello, First time sailor here, looking for advice w/pictures of how to properly Tarp my 30ft sailboat for the winter.....

Im assuming throwing one over the boom and another somehow over the bow. Ive heard of others taking one long tarp and cutting it, sliding it stern to bow... That didn't seem like a good idea because of the weight of snow... Im open to any ideas!! 

Cheers,
J


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## caberg (Jul 26, 2012)

One in the front, one in the back. The front one is supported by a 2x4, the back one goes over the boom. Use lines where necessary to add structure underneath. Some people build some pretty nifty PVC frames, but I found this to work great. Sorry I don't have a better picture but you get an idea of the front end. It's definitely not rocket science.


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## Grampian1989 (Aug 21, 2013)

Im in Upstate NY, and thank you for the pictures!! That is exactly what i was thinking. But would the snow on the deck of the boat be an issue?? if i use two tarps one on the bow, one on the stern... there is a space near the mast.. is that an issue?


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## caberg (Jul 26, 2012)

Where the two tarps came together at the mast, I used short lengths of twine to tie the gromets together. There is a little space around the mast, I guess, but I had it pretty tight. 

There are openings at both the back and front, a good thing in my view to let air flow through. The only idea is to keep snow/rain/ice/leaves from dropping directly down onto the boat and building up around the hardware, etc. Snow/rain slid right off my tarps all winter. Let's not forget these are boats, not some antique furniture, a little weather will not hurt them.

Also, I am in Vermont (this is in the Islands, actually, between VT and NY). Probably similar to your winters.


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## Grampian1989 (Aug 21, 2013)

Thank you for the advice!! Time to Winterize, Tarp and wait........Spring can't come soon enough!


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## caberg (Jul 26, 2012)

Here's one other picture which shows the beginning of installing the front tarp. You may be able to see how I rigged the 2x4. I basically went up with a couple pieces of wood, some twine, some duct tape, 2 tarps, and had at it....


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## Delta-T (Oct 8, 2013)

It makes me cringe when someone near me on dry dock does their own tarp. 9 times out of 10 there will be more damage to their own boats and adjacent boats then it is worth, if you don't know what you are doing. Most of those tarps, the grommets are useless and will rip out, and the string I have seen used. Any movement of the tarp can cause wear and tear.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

The only downside of tarps is there hell on a hull with a good finish as the flapping during a winter blow can beat the carp out of the shine





Never under estimate the weight of one good snow storm when building the frame as we had 36" last winter on long Island in about 19 hours and even with that much pitch it was hard to stay ahead


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## caberg (Jul 26, 2012)

Delta-T said:


> It makes me cringe when someone near me on dry dock does their own tarp. 9 times out of 10 there will be more damage to their own boats and adjacent boats then it is worth, if you don't know what you are doing. Most of those tarps, the grommets are useless and will rip out, and the string I have seen used. Any movement of the tarp can cause wear and tear.


9 out of 10? Is that a scientific study?

What kind of specialized knowledge do you need to tarp your boat? Is there a degree, trade school, certification?

Mine looked the same in spring as it did in fall, and I'm certainly no boat-tarp expert.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

Tom, I'm confused. Did you tarp over shrinkwrap?


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

I have done both on the same boat BUT NOT at the same time 

The LARGE flair in the J24 hull let me get away with NO tarp damage 

The FLAT topsides Cal 29 would get the carp smacked out of it as a normal winter here will have several storms with LONG periods of time with 60 MPH winds


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## vega1860 (Dec 18, 2006)

Not exactly what you are looking for, I know, but these photos may give you some ideas.

These awnings were not designed for winter. We had them made in Hawaii and are typical of the set ups you find there to keep the sun and rain off and make a live-aboard more comfortable. But we now find ourselves in our fourth winter in snow conditions; our second winter in Alaska, and have learned they work very well in snow too.

The set consists of five pieces: one over the bow cut like a narrow triangle with the tip cut off, one large piece abaft the mast, and two smaller pieces enclosing the stern. We have had them up in winds over 40kts and with 18 inches of snow on the docks with no problem. They are made of Sunbrella secured with 3/16 polyester rope.

To be ideal for storage, they should be much lower and have some additional support for the main section but the cut would be similar. This set is fifteen years old (Photos taken Nov 2012) and is still in excellent condition.



















Made to set lower, with the bottom flush with the deck instead of the lifelines and with a wooden frame with battens nailed on the outside, this arrangement would be about as bomb proof as you could hope for. Added benefit is that you could still easily get aboard to work  in the cabin.


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## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

Dropping the mast allows you to use inexpensive tarps instead of custom covers. Very easy with a gin pole on a 25 foot boat. May not be so simple on a 30 footer, especially if you have dual pairs of spreaders.

I get extra heavy duty tarps (9-11 mils thick), they're worth the extra premium and still inexpensive. They have a bolt rope to reinforce the grommets. I've gotten 3 winters out of them so far - might get a fourth, depending on how they look when I inspect them in a couple weeks.

Note that the pictures below were taken before I finished tying up the bow area:


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## Grampian1989 (Aug 21, 2013)

Do you guys take out your batteries?


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## Minnesail (Feb 19, 2013)

Grampian1989 said:


> Do you guys take out your batteries?


I just read this article by Maine Sail: Effect of Winter on Battery Self Discharge Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

The gist seems to be that if a battery is 100% charged, just unhook it and leave it.


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## rikhall (Feb 7, 2008)

OK - no expert here, no advance PhT degree, but this is the way I have done it on three different boats (T22, T28 and Irwin 34) for more than fifteen years. We live where it can get to more than -20 C and lots of snow and wind can happen: (masts for all our boats come down)

1 - we build a frame and put carpet or something where the tarp will rub




























2 - we wrap it up and tie it down.




























And, we check it on a regular basis.

Batteries stay in, cushions, sails, dodger etc come off.

Rik


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## mgb69 (May 3, 2012)

I covered my Mirage 24 for the first time last year (about to do it again). 
Having looked online I used a variation of the mast down system. 
I made 3 braces to support the mast above the deck (level and high enough for airflow)
Then I bought a bunch of inexpensive PVC electrical conduit - zip tied it to the toe rail on one side bowed it over the mast and zip tied to the opposite toe rail (drilled holes through the conduit). 
Then I loosely tied a good quality tarp over the boat, followed by a large section of fish net. The netting was pulled tight, kept the tarp in place and didnt wear. Protected the tarp with carpet sections where it would chafe. 

Worked great. I'm in Nova Scotia and it shed snow well, withstood some serious windstorms. Boat was great in the spring. 

I used an inexpensive plastic shipping wrap to hold thing together - keep carpet in place, secure shrouds etc. 
Sorry - no handy pics. 

Mark


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## benesailor (Dec 27, 2012)

I see that the vast majority of people don't take their lifelines down. In the pictures anyways. The marina i used to store at everyone took their lifelines down. I always do. I moved my boat down the canal this year away from the snowbelt (250" yr). I know you would never shrink wrap a boat with lifelines up. I've seen what happens; can snap them right off. With the mast down on tall crutches what do you guys think about going over the lifelines with a tarp?? 
I always tarp so far. I finally bought a thick vinyl tarp 20 x 46 and custom cut and glued it myself. I got tired of buying a new HD poly tarp every year. The wind was ripping them apart. They were tied well by the way. I watched shrink wrap blown off as well. My old storage yard was wide open to the northwest winds. 60 miles of fetch.


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## benesailor (Dec 27, 2012)

By the way; if i tied my boat in my previous marina as loose as some of the tarps i see in these pictures it would be gone in a week. You guys most have some protected storage areas.


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## asdf38 (Jul 7, 2010)

I've tarped mast up and mast down. It's a hell of a lot easier down.

When the mast was up I used two tarps with sawhorses out of 2x4's as necessary. 

Build the frame high to shed the snow. Don't trust the grommets. Wrap the tarp around. Golf ball and wrap a slip knot around that.


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## MikeOReilly (Apr 12, 2010)

With our previous boat (Grampian 34 centre cockpit) we tarped every year. We get real winters up here on the north shore of Lake Superior, so our tarp had to keep the snow out while standing up to severe winter storms. 

After a few versions I settled on making a frame of flexible plastic conduit (1" perhaps 1 1/2"). I tied the arches to a 3/8" line that I used as a ridge pole/backbone. The conduit was secured to the toe rail and tie-wrapped to the spine. The tarp was then draped over and secured down to the cradle. 

The benefit of this system is that it flexes with the wind. Using this we never ripped the tarp, and always kept the snows out. It's also easy to set up and store.


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## abrahamx (Apr 3, 2006)

Take a walk through the yard. You are bound to see plenty of them.


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## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

I store mast up. My system consists of using the boom and whisker pole as the centerline supports and them have hoops using 1 inch PVC conduit (like Mike above) that attach to the boom or whisker pole and the toerail. Without the hoops, snow and water will collect. I use two tarps, a bit oversized and slit at necessary points to get around shrouds etc. and reinforced with Gorilla tape. I strongly recommend buying a heavy duty tarp (silver) not the light blue or green ones. MUCH more durable, don't flap nearly as much due to the additional weight, and twice as many grommets that don't pull out. I'm on my fourth season with mine. Buy them online and they are about the same as the cheap blue ones at the local hardware store.

Heavy-Duty Silver Poly Tarps at Tarp & Cover Superstore


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## Rhapsody-NS27 (Apr 8, 2012)

Where I live, boats stay in the water. I've only seen two or three boats that have actually been hauled and shrink wrapped. When my boat was on its trailer, I used tarps to cover most of the deck. I'm looking at making a boat cover someday out of sunbrella hoping that it would last longer than the tarps.


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## Don L (Aug 8, 2008)

I never have had the plastic type tarps make it though the winter they always tear apart. The yard this year has banned them from boats due to the damage they do to the boats once they start flapping all over.

So I thinking in spending some cash this year for a good canvas tarp. But just to keep the snow out of the cockpit so I can get onto the boat in early spring.

My boat doesn't leak


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

Don0190 said:


> I never have had the plastic type tarps make it though the winter they always tear apart. *The yard this year has banned them from boats due to the damage they do to the boats once they start flapping all over.*
> 
> So I thinking in spending some cash this year for a good canvas tarp. But just to keep the snow out of the cockpit so I can get onto the boat in early spring.
> 
> My boat doesn't leak


You are correct that many yards have banned them because they can and often do damage other boats in the process. A flapping grommet in 25 knots can do a number on a 15K Awlgrip job......

A well done home made tarp can be fine, but they are often not "well made"...

Fail:









Fail:









Fail:









Fail:









The key design criteria up here is PITCH, PITCH, PITCH. These covers MUST be able to SHED snow or they very often fail........

Personally I build my own framing and a buddy with the tools shows up helps me shrink it. I would get my own guns but he is so reasonable it would be too long of a pay back...

Our cover design has never held snow nor does any part of the cover or frame every touch our painted topsides.

Getting ready to frame her up:









Framing in progress:


















My latest cross tie design can be removed for winter work and replaced from inside the cover.









Another design I came up with is to build into my winter cover a "vestibule"... No opening a cheesy zip door or fighting to get on-board I simply walk out the barn and up the ladder.... The barn also has its own shore power outlet on the second floor...









Sleek, slippery, easy winter access and does not touch the painted hull. Most importantly it never holds or retains any snow. The minute it gets to 1/4" to 1/2" it avalanches and comes off in sheets...


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

*Old Indian trick*

Believe it or not, buffalo hides for tipis did NOT come with grommets. So here is a genuine "old Indian trick".

Place a smooth roundish object, a small marble or smooth pebble, behind the fabric and push it towards you and tie around it so it's in a tight pocket. You should see the shape of the pebble/marble on your side with the tie rope on your side and behind the pebble. This is much stronger than a grommet, and you can do it wherever you need a tie, but where possible do it on the hem or a seam for strength. Be aware that it's heavier than a grommet, it's up to you to make sure it won't flap and flail around. Mine don't sit against the boat.

As Maine Sail says, steep pitch is everything. I also like the ridge high so I can get in there comfortably. And I like some opening at the ends for ventilation.

I have one tarp that's been on continuously for three years (stored), it just split a few days ago at the ridge. It's still dry and pleasant in the boat.


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## asdf38 (Jul 7, 2010)

This isn't quite the right thread for this but what are thoughts about leaving batteries in over winter?

Now that I have a proper solar panel and controller I was considering leaving the batteries on-board over the winter with the panel (on the stern rail) exposed.

I'm guessing that with the silver tarp enough light won't get through for the solar right? I've heard that shrink wrap lets in enough light normally to keep batteries topped off.

This saves me lugging them in and out and gives me lights and power over winter.


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## Delta-T (Oct 8, 2013)

No need to remove the batts. as long as you have a full charge on them and disconnect them. Batts will lose like 2% a month. I would not keep the solar hooked up unless you are going to check water levels. Assuming you have non sealed wet batts.


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## JimMcGee (Jun 23, 2005)

I'm always impressed by the engineering I see in these tarp threads. But every year I see ripped tarps flapping in the boatyard. Their sound is as much a part of winter as slapping halyards and wind through the rigging.

My boat came with a Fairclough winter cover (thanks to the original owner). It does a good job of protecting the boat and it's held up incredibly well -- it's now 18 years old and is showing no signs of failing.

They're not cheap, but they're a good investment and good quality covers aren't prone to failure. Mine goes on in less than an hour with two people and is fitted to the boat.

Just my 2 cents.


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## Andrew65 (Dec 21, 2009)

I live onboard in Norway and made somewhat of a thermal blanket on a frame. 

I have a tarp slightly longer than my 29ft boat and split it from the mast to the bow to wrap the mast and then sewed it up strong to the bow. I have 6 sections of 1/2 foam mat insulation (4ft X 12ft) and laid that on top. lastly, I put on my pvc boat cover and secured it as usual with line and water jugs from a gas station. I regulate the end openings for draft. It`s strong and works like a charm.

Something new to think about if you either live onboard or work on your boat during the winter months.


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## asdf38 (Jul 7, 2010)

JimsCAL said:


> I store mast up. My system consists of using the boom and whisker pole as the centerline supports and them have hoops using 1 inch PVC conduit (like Mike above) that attach to the boom or whisker pole and the toerail. Without the hoops, snow and water will collect. I use two tarps, a bit oversized and slit at necessary points to get around shrouds etc. and reinforced with Gorilla tape. I strongly recommend buying a heavy duty tarp (silver) not the light blue or green ones. MUCH more durable, don't flap nearly as much due to the additional weight, and twice as many grommets that don't pull out. I'm on my fourth season with mine. Buy them online and they are about the same as the cheap blue ones at the local hardware store.
> 
> Heavy-Duty Silver Poly Tarps at Tarp & Cover Superstore


Thanks for the link. They are $20 cheaper than Tarps Plus (for 20'x30') where I went last time so I'm giving them a try

I used the same silver tarp and I was happy with it although I only got two years from it. That's because I had a wooden frame and it chafed pretty badly on the wood. This year I'll wrap the wood in pieces of the old tarp for protection.


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## deltaten (Oct 10, 2012)

Harbor Freight has cute little dealies for tying tarps. Sorta an extended, egg-like circle of plastic with a "button" hat fits/snaps inside, once pushed thu from the back of the tarp. I use 'em for tie-downs and to lace-up and close entry. 
'Bout a buck apiece or less...cheap attachment and insurance that a tarp will hold where ya put it!


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

DeltaTen, I looked at those yesterday when I was in the store. I was afraid the "female" part would poke into the tarp. Did you use them and did they damage the tarp at all?


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## hriehl1 (Aug 8, 2007)

I have gotten very good service on my 28 footer with a home-built electrical conduit frame and Kover Klamps. Kover Klamps secure the intersection of the conduit no matter what the joining angle may be.

The original making of the conduit frame took two of us perhaps 5-6 hours... mostly trial-and-error piece-by-piece bending and fitting (the Kover Klamp directions were decent). Then I made another dozen of so wood-slats-joined-by-rope that I sling over the ridgepole to create more ribs for snow support (I am in New Hampshire). The outboard slat-rib ends are secured taut to the port and starboard longitudinals with zip ties. I cover all hard-points with cheap cut-up carpet squares secured by zip ties.

This worked brilliantly for almost 3 full years with one silver 30x15 heavy-duty tarp while I did a full refit. This past summer I launched and it took me maybe 90 minutes to break-down the frame (all pieces marked for easy re-assembly). This fall, I re-assembled the frame alone and it took 4 hours... if I had a helper it would have been more like 90 minutes.

I've been very pleased with the whole setup... it is very sturdy and easily disassembled and reassembled. I did put on a new $65 silver tarp on it... based on prior experience, I expect certainly 2 and maybe 3 winters from each tarp.

PS: Zip ties may be next to duct tape in the list of God's gifts to the do-it-yourselfer.


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## Delta-T (Oct 8, 2013)

@ Jimgo

No, I do not tarp my boat, sounds like allot of work. Those SS straps, I would not use for tarping. I seem to be having an issue with posting to the incorrect thread, that was meant for the Anchor rode bag storage on stanchion. Sorry. But for the $3.50 they are great to have handy. And the ones that are stocked at Walmart are only the 6" ones, online they sell a 11" ones. If used through grommets, there should be no issues using them for tarping. 

If you want a mans sized plastic tie tap, go to you local HVAC supply store. They make them in up to 48" long.


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## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

asdf38 said:


> Thanks for the link. They are $20 cheaper than Tarps Plus (for 20'x30') where I went last time so I'm giving them a try
> 
> I used the same silver tarp and I was happy with it although I only got two years from it. That's because I had a wooden frame and it chafed pretty badly on the wood. This year I'll wrap the wood in pieces of the old tarp for protection.


You're welcome. I bought my tarps from them and was happy. Yes, avoiding chafe is key to getting multiple years out of a tarp. I use the foam pipe insulation at every corner and chafe point. Already split, cheap, cuts easily, and you just slip it over the conduit and use some duct tape to secure it.

When I got my new-to-me boat I priced out a custom cover, but the $2000 price was shocking. So far I have four years out of about $150 spent for tarps, conduit frame parts, and rope, so figure there's no way the custom cover was ever going to make $$ sense.


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## MikeOReilly (Apr 12, 2010)

Those silver tarps are definitely more durable than the cheap blue ones, but I would usually get at least three years out of each blue one, sometime more. The key is avoiding chafe, but I also contend that our success came from allowing the whole shelter to flex with the wind. This allows the tarp to shed snow, and deflect shredding wind gusts. Conduit does this well, but moving to a rope spine (the vertical posts) was another key change.

I'm a bit amused by those who say tarping your own boat is a difficult task. On the scale of boat DIY projects, this has to be one of the easier ones.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

The 2013 Seafever plenty of room to work on the boat in complete comfort addition


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## CatMan22 (Apr 16, 2012)

Since I trailer my Catalina 22 and the mast is down I use three 12 x 12 tarps with grommets tied together and covered these with a 20 x 30 tarp that after I tie down I run 4 ratchet straps around bottom of boat to snug the tarp and stop wind flap.


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## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

Some good ideas on tarps. On some past boats I have shrinkwrapped them and used a wooden frame set up. Worked quite well but took 1-2 days to construct and shrink. My current boat is a 29 footer stored with the mast off the boat. It has an Awlgrip hull which precludes me from using any cover that touches the hull. My solution is cheap and effective. This really only works if you have a slotted toe rail. I get a heavy duty plastic tarp about 9'6" x 12 foot from Harbor Freight. I then buy their 40 shock cord deal for another $12. I position the tarp just aft of the forward hatch and it extends over the companionway. I secure all the grommets to the toe rail with shock cords drawn reasonably tight. I then go from rail to rail forming a couple of x patterns that cover the whole cabin top. This prevents the tarp from flapping but there is still a little give. I position a couple scrap pieces of 6x6s on the forward edge to keep the tarp from lifting.

I can enter and exit the boat in the winter through the forward hatch which is watertight.

Bottom line is that I have at the most $ 25 invested and it keeps any water from getting into the cabin.


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## deltaten (Oct 10, 2012)

No damage, Jim...just sometimes tough ta get 'em ta go together. There's a trick to it that I haven''t master'd yet  My boat buddy's been using them for years and years. Seem ta hold up and HOLD well.

HTH


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## sailor1950 (Dec 8, 2009)

bite the bullet and get a custom cover. It would be a plus if you sell. The big problem is when water gets under fittings and then freezes breaking the seal and allowing water into the deck.


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## 34crealock (Dec 30, 2012)

After years Of beating up my boat with tarps I use shrink wrap. My installer agrees with Mainesail( pitch, pitch, pitch) . Most damage I have seen in Maine is caused when covers don't shed the snow.the other benefit of white shrink wrap is that my solar chargers keep the batteries topped up.


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## caberg (Jul 26, 2012)

Just finished tarping for this winter. Some of you guys way overthink this. The guy next to me (to the left in the photo) had some complicated homemade pvc/2x4 system he was erecting. Appeared that he and his wife had been there for a few hours before I got there, and were nowhere near putting the tarps on before I left. For this year, about 2 hours and $8 for some additional line for tie downs. I'm in northern New England with big snows and winter storms.


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## rikhall (Feb 7, 2008)

I know this will be Greek to a lot of you, but I found the best price and the heaviest custom made tarp at a place that makes "*liners for outside hockey rinks*".

Hey - it works for me!

Rik


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

If you throw a tarp around your mast and over your lifelines, you are taking a risk if you are in a snow zone. My neighbor's boat was covered in this fashion last winter and had several stanchions pulled inward and punch through the deck as a result of an unusually heavy, wet snowfall last February.

My boat has a professionally designed frame that distributes a snow load via longitudinal stringers supported by bows that go outside the lifelines. It has a ridgepole that is a few feet higher than my boom, thereby providing a steeper slope than a "boom tent". I had no problems in the blizzard of '13, but remember getting under the cover and pushing what must have been a tone of wet snow off the cover.

My understanding is that some folks in Maine using furring strips along the lifelines that are connected via athwart lumber to keep them from collapsing inward under load. You may be in an area where the snow is drier--and therefore lighter--than some of the wet snow we get along the coast. Local knowledge may be your best guide.


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

For my Islander 28, I can fit the entire cover, frame and everything in the trunk of my 1999 Saab 93. Tired of ridge poles and frames. last year I changed things. I mount the spreaders from my mast against 2' pieces of 6x6 sitting on pieces of 2x8. I use pipe clamps. The two mounted spreaders are located at either end of the boat. In the bow the 6x6 sits just aft of the anchor locker. The stern spreader sits on top of the cockpit coaming. I have a very strong and secure pad eye at the stern for the back stay adjuster. At the mast step I have a third (middle) upright. It is a piece of 2' aluminum pipe, attached to a 6x6 like the spreaders, with a pvc T fitting on its top end. I run a piece of 1/4" Amsteel from the bow chain plate, over the end of the bow spreader, through the pvc T on the middle support, down over the end of the stern spreader, through the pad eye, to a winch. I tied all three support posts to the toe rails to give them lateral stability. I tighten up the Amsteel and drag my tarp over the ridge line. I "tie" every grommet with shock cord running under the hull and fold the tarp at the stern so it can be opened. The height of the middle support is important. It should be high for a steep pitch. It worked great. I use a white tarp.

Down


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## Ulladh (Jul 12, 2007)

Do you need to completely enclose your boat with tarp??

I covered the entire boat a few time with a tarp, on a 20 ft boat it is not that difficult, but not anymore.

The deck has been exposed to wind, sun and spray for at least 6 months, 6 months of wind, snow and ice is not going to make much difference. Just remove whatever items you think may not do well under winter conditions, tarp over the cockpit to reduce the possibility of freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw-freeze from clogging the cockpit drains.

The deck will need to be cleaned in the spring with or without a cover.


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## MikeOReilly (Apr 12, 2010)

caberg said:


> Just finished tarping for this winter. Some of you guys way overthink this. The guy next to me (to the left in the photo) had some complicated homemade pvc/2x4 system he was erecting. Appeared that he and his wife had been there for a few hours before I got there, and were nowhere near putting the tarps on before I left. For this year, about 2 hours and $8 for some additional line for tie downs. I'm in northern New England with big snows and winter storms.


Hey, caberg, if it works for you, then who is anyone to say otherwise. It certainly wouldn't work for our winter, where we lots of snow and nasty winter storms (high winds). If your boat was up here that tarp would quickly chafe through at the stanchions, the grommets would rip out, and you'd end up with first a pile of snow in the collapsed tarp. This would turn to a large glob of ice, risking the stability of your boat on it's cradle, let alone the possible damage the ice might cause.

The point of covering the boat is two-fold. You want to keep snow off to avoid weight loading on the boat, especially in the cockpit, but possibly also on the deck (although that's less on an issue). But the major issue is to protect against freeze-thaw problems. Snow-covered decks will promote water intrusion. Cored decks that have thru-fittings will be at risk in freeze-thaw situations, and if (and when) you have water intrusion, then freeze-thaw cycles will start to cause real damage.


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Ulladh said:


> Do you need to completely enclose your boat with tarp??


No! I use the bow pulpit to form a scoop that allows air to blow under the cover. I keep an opening at the stern, too. With a high pitch and air having access to both surfaces, enough rippling movement keeps the snow off even here in coastal Maine. My tarps last for years. Their failure is from UV exposure. Using only shock cord at every grommet is very important. Having things give a little is essential. Using shock cord that I run under the hull works well. I use 4 long pieces that get "laced" through opposing grommets. This allows the tension to balance itself. It would never allow loads to bend stanchions! Really??

I buy 1/4" shock cord on a bulk spool. It is a fraction of the cost by the foot. I also "discovered" a small plastic hook that lobster fishermen use. It fits into grommets on the hook end and the 1/4" shock cord compression fits onto the slot at the other end. No knots required and simple adjustment.

My tarps are normal hd white poly tarps. One will last 3 to 4 seasons. They cost less than $100.00 for a 20 x 40. It is the best looking cover in the yard.

Yup it gets dirty under the tarp. Spring cleaning required.

We plan to be un stepping our mast on deck next year. I want to store it there and use it as our ridge pole. One observation I have made about this option is storing it up high off the deck. Windage might be a consideration at some point. We do have three boat stands per side and the windage shouldn't be as strong as storing with the mast up. I will enjoy designing the crutches for that. We are planning some canal cruising and would like to carry the mast as high as practical. Any suggestions?

Down


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## casioqv (Jun 15, 2009)

downeast450 said:


> I buy 1/4" shock cord on a bulk spool. It is a fraction of the cost by the foot. I also "discovered" a small plastic hook that lobster fishermen use. It fits into grommets on the hook end and the 1/4" shock cord compression fits onto the slot at the other end. No knots required and simple adjustment.


Any details on what these hooks look like and where to find them?


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Sure,

Hamilton Marine.

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## courish (Sep 16, 2010)

This is making me feel cold!


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## scottbr (Aug 14, 2007)

The best way is anyway that works well for you.

Used a silver, hay bale tarp that lasted 6 seasons ( 1 too many as silver flecks covered the boat last year ) Supported a 2x4 ridge with vertical 2x4's lashed to the mast, and forstay. Used rope from the ridge to the bow cleats, mid cleats and stern. Used a multitude of tarp rope grabbers until I found one that really worked well that actually screw through the tarp and had an eye for the rope. Tied off underneath and kept the tarp tight. Ziplocked a poly skirt to the mast at the pening to shed water / snow and used tarp tape to seal the cuts down the sides for the chainplates.
Never had any snow accumilate on the tarp and zero issues over the 6 seasons.



Finally tossed that tarp last spring and bit the bullet for a custom tarp, very similar designed as the silver tarp. Installed in half a day.


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## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

Here is my Harbor Freight special. Only covers cabin top and companionway. Shock cord suspension system provides some flexibility and keeps tarp from flapping. I have about $25 invested. Awlgrip hull sides so I can't have the tarp overlapping the rail. Worked great last year and we had 60" of snow for the season. The scrap 4x4s insure very little air gets underneath.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

Having kept my boat on the shores of Lake Champlain (not this year), am familiar with the snow issues. I've always used my mast as the "ridge pole" of a long tent, supported by uprights every 5' or so. I use a 40' x 20' tarp with cutouts for hardware. It works out pretty well. A LOT of weight builds up from snow, so a mast or boom used as a support really needs to be braced up every few feet. I've found that snow will build up no matter what I do and sag it so that during thaws, ice will form in depressed spots, requiring some chipping. It's pretty much necessary to take a trip to the boat after heavy snows and shovel it off. I bring a ladder and big shovel, although a roof rake would work as well. It's good exercise during the winter too One thing to avoid is forming pockets in which water can build up. I've seen some boats with literally hundreds of gallons in a tarp-pond. Also, don't tie off tarps to Brownell stands for obvious reasons.

Another thing I do is remove the lifelines (Amsteel) and put holes in the tarp so the stanchions poke up through. This tends to keep the tarp in place and doesn't really let much leakage in.


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## SawWhet (Mar 1, 2008)

WE store our Beneteau 321 in our back yard ,mast on deck and one tarp covers bow to stern and down to keel well tied also purchased a "roof rake "for removing snow.


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## Skipaway (Jun 2, 2008)

*shock cord hook*

downeast: couldn't find that hook at hamilton, but did here: 
Crab Traps & Supplies - Bag of 50 Small Crab Pot Hooks - Quantity Discount Available 
$9.45/50; looks reasonable; at 20¢ each I'll expand my use of shock cord.

question: is the hook opening large enough to fit in the toe rail slots?

I'll add to the discussion when I can take some photos later this week.


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: shock cord hook*



Skipaway said:


> downeast: couldn't find that hook at hamilton, but did here:
> Crab Traps & Supplies - Bag of 50 Small Crab Pot Hooks - Quantity Discount Available
> $9.45/50; looks reasonable; at 20¢ each I'll expand my use of shock cord.
> 
> ...


HM probably doesn't list them in their catalog. There is a fishing gear section in the Southwest Harbor store that carries supplies for commercial fishermen.

Yes they do fit the openings in the aluminum toe rail on our Islander-28. They are a little tight and it is the only place I have managed to break one forcing it in on a cold day. Simply wrapping the shock cord around something and hooking it on itself works everywhere there isn't a grommet. I have purchase a bag of ? 50? and that was several years ago. I use them with 1/4" shock cord on our other boats and as camping ties, too. Great little hooks and very inexpensive. No steel hook to damage a surface. No more bungees unless the application calls for a large S hook or a more powerful elastic.

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## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

I stepped the mast today with my gin pole (or is it un-stepped?), and put up my PVC pipe structure to support the tarp. I'll probably wait a couple weeks before covering it, while I decide whether to get new tarps or try to get another year out of the the 3-year-old heavy duty silver ones that I already have. I'm also considering replacing lifelines and rebedding stanchions, and I would want to get those off before covering this year. Normally the cover goes over those things (tennis balls on top of stanchions to prevent chafe).

Here are pics of the PVC pipe to make a nice pitch on the bow of the boat, and the sawhorse that I use to support the mast and cover back in the cockpit. Note the carpet pieces over the ends of all 2x4s to prevent chafe. Lowering the mast is a 3-step process: lower mast with foot in tabernackle into the mast support crutch, remove foot and walk the mast forward to the bow while mast rolls through the roller, then build the sawhorse under the mast and move it off the crutch onto the sawhorse. The sawhorse will not fit under the mast until the foot is moved to the bow:


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## Chas H (Sep 6, 2013)

My mast is on a rack for the winter ready to work on in the spring. A tarpaulin covers the boat from stem to stern over a 2x4 ridge supported by A-frames. The ridge is also supported at the mast step. I've removed the stanchions and lifelines. The tarp is rolled under and pulled tight at the gunwales. Zip-ties hold the tarp taut at the perforated toe rail. The tarp is also wrapped around the the bow and stern. I've allowed ventilation through small openings at the ends at the ridge. It isn't as tight as shrink wrap but not bad. My concern now is if the tarp will shred because of the tiny holes at the gunwales where the zip-ties go through the rolled edges. Although I don't think much wind will get under the tarp.

I like the idea of covering the boat with a fishing net.
-CH


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Here is a collection of photos that show how I am using an amsteel ridge line to cover my boat. The entire cover fits into my Saab's trunk. This boat spent this season on the hard and shows the dirt of a dirt storage lot.


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## MikeOReilly (Apr 12, 2010)

downeast450 said:


> Here is a collection of photos that show how I am using an amsteel ridge line to cover my boat. The entire cover fits into my car's trunk. This boat spent this season on the hard and shows the dirt of a dirt storage lot.


Nicely done. That is very similar to my approach with our previous boat; cheap 3/8" rope ridge line (amsteel seems an overkill ... no?) tied pulpit to pushpit, with a series of verticals posts along the centre. Instead of line we used 1" conduit to create the ribs, but basically same idea.


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

MikeOReilly said:


> Nicely done. That is very similar to my approach with our previous boat; cheap 3/8" rope ridge line (amsteel seems an overkill ... no?) tied pulpit to pushpit, with a series of verticals posts along the centre. Instead of line we used 1" conduit to create the ribs, but basically same idea.


Thanks Mike,

The Amsteel is a little stronger than it probably needs. I have a bunch of it. (I had a source who was selling me mill ends (20' to 100+' for $10.00 a pound.) I use it for everything now. I did choose it because of its rigidity under tension. Once you have pre stretched the stuff it doesn't stretch any more!! With it tightened you can almost pluck a tune on it. It duplicates the support of a piece of cable or a rigid support. It also fits into my pocket! Ha!

This is the second winter for this setup and there was no sag under some heavy snow loads last year. I expect the same this time. What I was trying to accomplish was simplifying the "hardware" needed for a sound cover. This system works.

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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

downeast450 said:


> ...With it tightened you can almost *pluck a tune *on it.
> 
> ...What I was trying to accomplish was simplifying the "hardware" needed for a *sound cover*. This system works.
> 
> Down


What song are your covering?


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

skygazer said:


> What song are your covering?


"Sweet Caroline"


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## stuart11 (Sep 21, 2013)

An approach to tarp a smaller boat is on Youtube Boat cover bows/poles homemade.

Basically using pvc poles with t-pieces cut to fit on the rail.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

stuart11 said:


> An approach to tarp a smaller boat is on Youtube Boat cover bows/poles homemade.
> 
> Basically using pvc poles with t-pieces cut to fit on the rail.


Here is link to the video: 





With our larger sailboats, a support ridge would be helpful, what is shown won't work up here in Maine, need steepness for snow.


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## stuart11 (Sep 21, 2013)

anyone have pics of a pvc frame for a smaller daysailer? Mine is 23' LOA, 7' beam.

thought is to build four 1 1/2 bases to hold up a PVC ridge pole, place about five supports on the ridge pole to keep sagging to a minimum and encourage snow to slide off.

any suggestions and/or pics welcomed


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

skygazer said:


> With our larger sailboats, a support ridge would be helpful, what is shown won't work up here in Maine, need steepness for snow.


Agreed. I used to build a more elaborate frame but have settled on 4 'A' frames that support a continuous 2x6" ridge. Now on my second set of A's, I've learned it's pretty good at shedding snow.

Occasionally conditions will layer wet snow on one side and I have to go inside and push it off but the frame holds. That happens maybe once every year at most. It's never collapsed.

It goes up pretty quickly, keeps the boat bone dry and well ventilated, I can work under it, and tarps last 1 season for the cheapies, 2 for the mediums, and 3 for the best(I've settled on the mediums).

One plus with my old boat is that the bronze stantions slide out of bronze pockets bolted in the deck.


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## stuart11 (Sep 21, 2013)

Was thinking of building a PVC frame similar to yours for my small daysailer (22' loa/7' beam, but with pvc bases attached to a flange screwed into a wood square for stability. I thought I'd make A frames with 1 1/2" pvc poles connected by 90 degree t's and tie to the ridge for stability. 

Sounds like you did not use bases, but support the ridge pole with the A frames, are the A frames tied onto the pole are connected with a T connector or something else to secure them?


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

stuart11 said:


> Sounds like you did not use bases, but support the ridge pole with the A frames, are the A frames tied onto the pole are connected with a T connector or something else to secure them?


Hi Stuart, just a pretty crude 1-1/2"x5" pocket cut into the tops of 4 A's that the 2x6 slides into.

Each A is secured at the two bases with plastic pipe strapping to a few convenient ties I've found that work on my boat. They do need to be anchored as I'm right on the harbor and we get some powerful winter winds.

For a smaller boat, you could use 1"x for all the parts. The top of the A also gets a gusset of plywood or piece of 1x scrap. The pocket can be cut in that as well.

I tried to upload a photo but the server refused(something new).


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## stuart11 (Sep 21, 2013)

thanks Tom,

Stuart


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## stuart11 (Sep 21, 2013)

*Daysailer under frame/cover for winter*

Good suggestions on this thread.

Our daysailer arrived on Friday, giving us a few hours on Saturday to build the frame and put the tarp on.

We did it successfully, held up after Saturday's snow (about 3") and very windy conditions.

Boatyard only a few blocks away, easy walk to check after the snow hit.

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice, wasn't able to upload a picture.

Stuart11


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