# Need help on bleeding a Yanmar 2GM



## PBzeer (Nov 11, 2002)

Was motoring along, when suddenly the engine starts losing revs, and then dies. I figured I finally had a clogged filter. After changing it though, I can't seem to get the line bled. Thought I understood what to do, but obviously I don't. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

The current issue of Cruising World has an article on how to bleed a diesel engine.


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## Rickm505 (Sep 4, 2005)

When you say you changed your fuel filter, is the it the primary 'Racor' type you changed out, or the Yanmar secondary fuel filter?

I'll assume primary. On my boat my fuel lines run 10 feet from primary filter to lift pump. Changing the primary puts a serious air gap in the fuel line by the time I get it full of fuel. The engines start, then litterally run out of fuel. I have to pull the fuel line off at the lift pump and use my mouth to suck the full through the line. Then use the lift pump to fill the fuel bowl of secondary filter and then I crack the banjo at the injector open a bit and use the lift pump until I have fuel at that point.

Engines start fine.

Rick in Florida


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## Rickm505 (Sep 4, 2005)

I just noticed you have a 2GM. If you really feel the engine had been bled correctly, I'd move on to the #2 cause of older, raw water cooled engines, quitting.

Pull the mixing elbow off, it's probably clogged and this will cause the symptoms you describe.

Rick in Florida


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

John...here are the steps...
BLEEDING THE FUEL SYSTEM
(Purging of air which causes shutdown)
This bulletin contains helpful information for bleeding the fuel system of a Yanmar Diesel and other
small diesels as well. Please post where your field service personnel can review.
Since the presence of air in the fuel system anywhere between the fuel tank and the injector will
"use a no start or erratic running condition, always bleed the air from the system when the fuel
system is disassembled, filter changed or run out of fuel.
1. Make sure fuel tank off is in "on" position.
2. Bleed the air from fuel filter. Loosen the air bleed screw at the top of the fuel filter body and
operate the manual handle the lift pump until the air bubbles completely expel in the fuel flowing
from the filter.
3. Bleed the air from the fuel return pipe. Loosen the connector bolt of the fuel return pipe installed
on the fuel injector, and bleed the air by operating the manual handle of the lift pump. (If there is
more than one injector, bleed the one at the end of the line).
4. Bleeding the air from the fuel line - (line from the filter to the injector pump). Loosen the air
venting screw at the injection pump and operate the manual handle of the lift pump until an the
air bubbles are out.
5. Bleed the air from the fuel injector. Loosen the nipple on the fuel injector side, set the throttle to
half and the decompression lever to the decompression position and crank engine. When no
more bubbles appear in the fuel flowing from the end of the injection pipe, re-tighten the nipple.
THIS BULLETIN IS FOR INFORMATION ONLY AND NOT AN AUTHORIZATION FOR REPAIRS
*****************
Hope that helps a bit but ALSO check if your hand operated lift pump is actually pumping fuel. There are a lot of problems with these Lift pumps and gaskets. Easiest way to check is to loosen/remove first fitting after the pump (not the exit fitting of the pump) and check for good flow as you pump. If you get little flow or constant bubbles with the flow...you have a leaky gasket and the ENTIRE pump needs to be replaced (about $75) and here's a couple of places to get one from quickly:

Distributor 
Union (New Jersey)  Mack Boring & Parts Co.  2365 Route 22 West
7083 Union (New Jersey)  908.964.0700 
908.964.5032 
Mack Boring & Parts Company - The Power Behind The Power 
 Dealer 
Myrtle Beach  Hague Marina Inc.  Myrtle Beach Yacht Basin
29577 Myrtle Beach  843.293.2141 
*If you DON'T have a leak at the pump...*
then it is simply a matter of following the piping around and bleeding each fitting until you see no bubbles. Check your hi-pressure fuel pump in the manual as some have TWO bleed screws.

I don't know YOUR engine John so some others may be able to be more specific. Your symptom SOUNDS like a clogged line OR a line getting air into it assuming you don't have any other symptoms like overheating or water in the oil. Rick's suggestion should be checked too!
Good luck on the fix & hope the above is helpful.


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## PBzeer (Nov 11, 2002)

Mine is setup with the primary, after the lift pump, then to secondary. Not going to try anything in the dark, was hard enough in the light. If all else fails, I'll get some use out of my TowBoatUS membership and have them tow me into Southport in the morning. Meanwhile, I'll just wander around all night.

And no, I'm not sure I bled it correctly. Thanks for the help. At least I have sails


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## Rickm505 (Sep 4, 2005)

I'm certain you'll have this fixed pretty quick. Just a quick question, when was the last time you fueled the boat? Does your setup have a water separator? If it does, it's worth checking the bowl and see what you have in there.

The 2GM exhaust mixing elbow should be easy to access on a 2GM as it's the highest point of the engine installation as I recall. I have twin Yanmar 1GM10s in my cat and the mixing elbows come off in about 5 minutes. If it's clogged, you can probably open it up by pulling some of the carbon out of it. This should be enough to get you into your slip. If the problem is fuel line bleeding, well, it's just logical, follow the fuel flow until you know you have fuel at the input to injector pump. 

If fuel is at the input to the injector pump and she still won't start, I'd humbly suggest that you grab that tow. 

Rick in Florida


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## keelime (Aug 31, 2006)

I have a yanmar 3gmd and encountered a similar plroblem after changing my fuel filters. My engine seems to get little air bubles stuck in the high pressure fuel lines. 
When using your manual fuel pump to bleed the injecters, make sure you are at full throttle, those little manual pumps need all the help they can get in order to pump enough fuel to get out all the air. 
Also, depending on how long ago you changed your filters, you may have nocked loose some gunk into your injectors. Good luck


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## keelime (Aug 31, 2006)

Sorry, I forgot to mention to do this when cranking your throttle to bleed your injectors.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

BTW, if you're cranking the engine for more than 20 seconds or so, don't forget to shut the raw water intake for the exhaust system off-if you have a water lift muffler, so that you don't get water in the engine through the exhaust valves and hydro-lock the engine. Hydro-locking the engine will just ruin your day.  *And don't forget to open the intake when you get the engine started. *


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## Gary M (May 9, 2006)

I just removed and cleaned my fuel tank and then replaced the primary filter on my 2GM. I tried the little manual pump but it did not seem to do anything so with the bleed screw at the top of the engine mount filter open it the starter button and diesel sprayed out. That seemed to take care of the air and it started and ran fine after that. I would highly recommend a rag over the bleed screw to contain the diesel.

With more research afterwards I found in the manual that if the hand pump does not seem to be doing anything then you are to turn the engine over 360 degrees which apparently engages the hand pump. Not sure how this is set up but that is what the manual says.

Hope you are tied up by now. 

Gary


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

I could not get my 2gm going about 3 wks ago, I removed the PITA line at teh top of the engine at the pump, and daughter cranked engine, put the line on, and she fired up, right then and there! This line is under the coolent lines, and needs a short handle 17MM wrench to get to it. Or an inverted ie 90* to handle crows foot or equal would work too.

Not positive, but the ynmar manual may be here at home, I can take it to spouses work and scan the pages needed. If it is not here, which a birdie is saying it is in the boat 80 miles north of me on the hard. So this option may be useless untill saterday or sunday when I go up there to do a few thing between shop doing bottom paint etc.

Marty


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## sailhog (Dec 11, 2006)

John,
Be sure to give us an update on your progress when you have a moment. Look forward to the All-is-Well post...
Sailhog


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## rperret (Apr 11, 2003)

*bleeding yanmar*

You've gotten lots of great advice here - so I will add my experince on a 1GM10.

After the yard changed the filter, it would not start easily - in fact it started very hard. I don't think the yard bled the system or tried to start the motor The manual lift pump on the Yanmar did not appear to pump any fuel.

At any rate, after shutting down the engine I noticed a small amount of fuel coming out from under the banjo bolt/bleed screw on the fuel injection pump (not the injector itself). BINGO. Air leak. So a 5 minute replacement of the bolt/bleed screw - and the manual lift pump (on engine) easily bleed the fuel and now she starts like a charm.

Also - here is a link to a website called yanmarhelp.com. have found it somewhat useful.

BLEEDING AIR


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Be very careful when tightening a banjo bolt. If you overtighten them, it will deform the copper seal, and then it will cause an airleak.


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## yotphix (Aug 18, 2006)

sailingdog said:


> Be very careful when tightening a banjo bolt. If you overtighten them, it will deform the copper seal, and then it will cause an airleak.


Too true...but if you undertighten them you will be ankle deep in fuel. I once assisted a 30ish larson motor boat brand new from the yard when they had 4 inches of gasoline in their engine room bilge from an untightened banjo bolt!


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## resdog (Mar 29, 2006)

_"With more research afterwards I found in the manual that if the hand pump does not seem to be doing anything then you are to turn the engine over 360 degrees which apparently engages the hand pump. Not sure how this is set up but that is what the manual says."_
This is good advice. I think what is occuring is that the lobe that is driving the pump has the pump lever engaged and when you flip that hand priming lever up and down all you are doing is working the spring. Turn the engine a bit so you can fully engage the priming lever. I know I've sat in that engine compartment spanking that little lever with no results before I figured that little trick out.


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## Gary M (May 9, 2006)

*Priming Bulb*

Another idea I came across while doing a little on line research was a suggestion by a diesel mechanic to put an outboard motor fuel priming bulb in the suction line at the fuel tank. Then you can just pump the bulb for bleeding and line filling. Seemed like a good idea but have not tried it.

Gary


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

Gary,

The bulb works great! I have a Yanmar powered trackhoe, and a Kabota power bobcat with inline bulbs from the factory. I've needed and used it on both! If one has fuel lines apart on their boat, and installing this item would be easy while apart, I would recomend installing one.

marty


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## PBzeer (Nov 11, 2002)

Turns out I was bleeding it right, the problem was the filters they sold me as "replacements" were not the right filters. They fit, but didn't allow fuel in. Found a Westerbeke filter on the boat, tried that, and voila. Unfortunately, it only lasted 12 hours, then it clogged. Evidently I got some bad fuel last stop.

Mine also has the priming bulb inline, and it works well.


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## Rickm505 (Sep 4, 2005)

The best solutions are the simplest!! Nice diagnosis!!

Rick in Florida


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

John...if yer clogging that much, my guess is NOT bad fuel but a bunch of crap in your tank getting stirred up by being in some rougher water. Suggest that when you haul to get your engine/shaft work done, you also get a fuel polishing to clean it out. In the meantime buy lots of filters! 
Also...if you have concerns about fuel...consider getting one of the "baja" type fuel filters from West. They work GREAT and are about 1/5 of the price of the stainless "baja" versions and keep both water and crap out of your tank.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

PBzeer said:


> Turns out I was bleeding it right, the problem was the filters they sold me as "replacements" were not the right filters. They fit, but didn't allow fuel in. Found a Westerbeke filter on the boat, tried that, and voila. Unfortunately, it only lasted 12 hours, then it clogged. Evidently I got some bad fuel last stop.
> 
> Mine also has the priming bulb inline, and it works well.


Hmmm...pump it all out and start over, Amigo...it may be the easiest way to put it all behind you. Even after a "pump out" it may take awhile before you have to stop changing filters.


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## christyleigh (Dec 17, 2001)

PBzeer said:


> Unfortunately, it only lasted 12 hours, then it clogged. Evidently I got some bad fuel last stop.


Good Luck John !! Hopefully you didn't stir up too much sludge. I get a sick feeling every time I hear of this happening to someone else. On my self delivery from Annapolis to RI the well baked sludge on the bottom of my 2 - 60 gal tanks stopped me dead every day after the first wave bashing session down the Delaware Bay. I spent $1000 to get the fuel 'polished' by a reputable firm in Portsmouth RI that fall but that only got me through last summer - and I had another mild clog. That's why I spent much time and money setting up a dual 'Filter Boss' system last winter that I can simply flip 2 levers in the event of a clog..... but the real effort was to set up my own polishing system tank A to B, A to A, B to A, or B to B so it will (hopefully) never happen again. There are cheaper ways to do it but the bells and whistles, separate pump, etc... plus Fantastic support from Andy the owner made it worth the 'Investment' to me


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## sailhog (Dec 11, 2006)

John,
Bust out the keyboard and give us some details of the trip.
Dwight


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## PBzeer (Nov 11, 2002)

Well, after all the bashing I went through before this, would have thought anything that was going to bust loose would have. Maybe it just took that last bashing coming out of Winyah Bay to finally break it loose. I figured it was the fuel, because the first clogged filter was old and probably should have been replaced sooner. Well, we shall find out.

On the good side, I woudn't have seen Wrightsville Beach if it hadn't happened. Looks like a good place to spend a few days. Not much to say about the trip from Georgetown to here. Two nights without motor. Last night, also being without wind. Otherwise, just sailing along.

_Currently at 34 12 43 N 77 48 23 W_


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