# Deck Core replacement



## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I plan to start this task next month on my boat. I'll be using balsa core and wanted to get some opinions on bedding hardware and using a liner as outlined in another post here on sailnet. I just want to make sure that a skim layer of FG is not required on the inside for strength. I plan to do the re-core from the inside leaving the outter decks untouched. (I know, I know). 

I'll keep updating this post with pictures and progress. Hopefully I can have the repair done with 100sq ft of balsa, and minimal down time. 

Here are the steps I have outlined
1. drop the mast and remove hardware
2. strip insides of anything important, vests, gear, etc. 
3. start from the companionway and cut sections of deck out working my up to the bow. 
4. plug all hardware holes to keep out rainwater, and allow a week to dry.
5. begin cutting and expoxying new balsa in place, same order as it was removed. 
6. epoxy over all exposed balsa to seal it. Let it cure. 
7. drill new holes and install hardware.
8. cut and install liner. 
9. put the stick up. 

WAAAY easier said than done. I'm not looking forward to this.


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Cored decks, like cored doors get their stiffness from the outside laminate layers, not layer.
You'll want to put at least one layer of FG over the core.

Imagine a door to your home with just the outer face and some cardboard waffles on the back. Imagine how fast it would warp out of true.

Another point, check your epoxy's curing temp's for min/max. Gooey don't work.


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

How do you intend to hold the balsa in place from underneath while the epoxy cures? I experienced sagging. Some sort of bracing is necessary. As chucklesR said, you absolutely do need the inside layer of fiberglass. You can save the inside skin, grind away any rotten balsa stuck to it and glue it back in place. Then you'd only need to glass the seams. But holding the layers in place will be your biggest challenge. As steated in the earlier threads, the one lesson, main lesson, I painfully learned was: do it from the top. I know, you know. Once the epoxy was applied, I didn't want to stop and grind it all away after I figured out how to brace, so I ended up putting screws from the top into my core to hold it in place after the sagging couldn't be stopped due to insufficient bracing from below. That left me with holes to fill from above anyway. Think it through. Folks have been successful doing this from below, but not me.

Good luck.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

zz4gta said:


> I plan to start this task next month on my boat. I'll be using balsa core and wanted to get some opinions on bedding hardware and using a liner as outlined in another post here on sailnet. I just want to make sure that a skim layer of FG is not required on the inside for strength. I plan to do the re-core from the inside leaving the outter decks untouched. (I know, I know).
> 
> I'll keep updating this post with pictures and progress. Hopefully I can have the repair done with 100sq ft of balsa, and minimal down time.
> 
> ...


You're forgetting a very important part of repair from the bottom GRAVITY! Use vacuum bagging!!! What ever the interior skin was made of lamination wise I should be put back with the same schedule.

I can assure you that without vacuum bagging this job will be harder, and come out with more gravity voids than doing it from above and repainting the decks. You make it sound so easy and I wish you luck!!


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## US27inKS (Feb 6, 2005)

I agree with Chuck. The balsa core causes the deck to have structure much like an I-beam. Without the interior fiberglass, you've got nothing.

What has been done with success, but more work initially, is to save the interior fiberglass as a panel. Carefully cut around the area you wish to cut out, and very carefully remove the fiberglass by cutting the core out. Then you can grind off any remaining core material from your panel. Then you can replace the core. To reinstall the panel, wet out the balsa core, the apply thickened epoxy to the panel. Prop the panel in place making sure it has good adhesion all the way across. Then fix the cut lines and you're done.

Or you can do what I did. Hold a 50 x 60 inch piece of dripping wet 18-2 biax over your head for about an hour.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

jbondy said:


> Folks have been successful doing this from below, but not me.
> 
> Good luck.


I believe folks "think" they have been successful. I have had the opportunity on a number of occasions to either dig into this work myself from above or have seen it in the shop and can assure you they were not nearly as successful as they thought they were..


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## US27inKS (Feb 6, 2005)

Maine Sail said:


> You're forgetting a very important part of repair from the bottom GRAVITY! Use vacuum bagging!!! What ever the interior skin was made of lamination wise I should be put back with the same schedule.
> 
> I can assure you that without vacuum bagging this job will be harder, and come out with more gravity voids than doing it from above and repainting the decks. You make it sound so easy and I wish you luck!!


I tried vacuum bagging mine, with no luck. I couldn't get a good seal on the stupid thing. So I used a piece of light plywood (3/16 if I remember) and braced it in multiple places. Yes it sucked.


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## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

How large an area are you talking about? You mention in the post going from the companionway forward. I can't fathom doing that much core work from underneath.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

NOLAsailing said:


> How large an area are you talking about? You mention in the post going from the companionway forward. I can't fathom doing that much core work from underneath.


All of it. 

There is no paint on the deck now, just gelcoat and I'd like to keep it that way, the outter shell is in good condition and I really don't want to hack it up if I can avoid it. The inside liner is cracking severly and coming apart, mildewed and rotting.

I guess my other question (which I've asked on a Merit site) was the thickness of the core. It looks to me like 3/8" plywood, I'm assuming I could use 3/8" end grain balsa to replace this correct?

jbondy, I plan to use adjustable "hood props" that some mechanics use. Basically a telescoping pole that can be locked into place. If those don't turn out to be cost effective, then wooden dowels cut to length will have to do.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

I can see you getting the core in place somewhat BUT i am not seeing the glass work as being that easy


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

tommays said:


> I can see you getting the core in place somewhat BUT i am not seeing the glass work as being that easy


I also see that as being my biggest headache. I'm open to suggestions, I don't believe theres FG on the inside as it is. Looks more like a thick coating of something else. I don't see any fibers in it even where its broken apart.

Edit: I'm planning on using Contourkore as the core material.


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## Capnblu (Mar 17, 2006)

Start with a small area, just to give yourself a feel for the pleasure, and accomplishment of undertaking of such a gratifying job. Kind of work the kinks out. Then when you are thoroughly coated, covered and bonded to your mess, you can revel in you good fortune that you didn't try the whole thing in one shot. Take lots of before, during, and after photos. Hey a video would be great! Lord know we all need a good laugh! (you poor bugger)


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## JohnRPollard (Mar 26, 2007)

zz4gta said:


> I plan to start this task next month on my boat. I'll be using balsa core and wanted to get some opinions on bedding hardware and using a liner as outlined in another post here on sailnet. I just want to make sure that a skim layer of FG is not required on the inside for strength. I plan to do the re-core from the inside leaving the outter decks untouched. (I know, I know).
> 
> I'll keep updating this post with pictures and progress. Hopefully I can have the repair done with 100sq ft of balsa, and minimal down time.
> 
> ...


I thought you were planning to circumnavigate Delmarva this coming spring!?   

More seriously, would it be at all possible to unbolt the deck and flip it over to do this work? It sounds daunting, but I think it would save you a ton of time in the long run and also yield much better results.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

On my J24 hull core sample from the knot meter the OUTER SKIN is thin and the inner SKIN is about double the thickness 


I am unsure how the deck is layed up in terms of skin thickness


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

JohnRPollard said:


> I thought you were planning to circumnavigate Delmarva this coming spring!?
> 
> More seriously, would it be at all possible to unbolt the deck and flip it over to do this work? It sounds daunting, but I think it would save you a ton of time in the long run and also yield much better results.


lol, exactly why I don't want a squishy deck between me and the atlantic.  And besides, I tight deadline is always good motivation. :laugher

From what I've read, you need to haul the boat for "deck removal", and also make a jig so the FG deck shell doesn't twist in odd directions while you're repairing it. It's also considered to be extremely hard to refit the deck to the hull. Most of the time one or the other has tweaked while they were apart, and now doesn't fit properly.


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## JohnRPollard (Mar 26, 2007)

zz4gta said:


> ...from what I've read, you need to haul the boat for "deck removal", and also make a jig so the FG deck shell doesn't twist in odd directions while you're repairing it. It's also considered to be extremely hard to refit the deck to the hull. Most of the time one or the other has tweaked while they were apart, and now doesn't fit properly.


Okay, for some reason I thought you had your boat on a trailer/cradle in your driveway. Regardless, you make some valid points about keeping the hull and deck in the proper shape. I think it could be done (with the boat hauled, of course), but no doubt it would be a major undertaking.

Then again, what you are about to embark on is no picnic. I would really think hard on the advice from Mainesail and others who've tried or seen this tried.

P.S. Also, you might touch base with ArtbyJody. He was facing some serious work on his Catalina 27 but eventually came to a different solution.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

J/24 #140 - Renovation










This guy did it from the outside and it will give you a good look if you have not seen it before


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

If you really don't want to do this from the top, I'd consider flipping the whole boat! Seriously, it would be easier to glue on or mold new non-skid.


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## US27inKS (Feb 6, 2005)

I'm still trying to figure out why you are wanting to do twice the work, just to save a can of paint. Are you afraid the deck will look so much better than the topsides that you'll have to paint the whole boat?


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## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

Seriously, ZZ - forget doing it from the inside if it's that extensive. You can ruin the boat.

You'll never get a properly bonded core and deck. This can work for smaller areas, but if you're doing a majority of the boat...forget it.

You need to cut from the top - do it in sections - foredeck, each sidedeck, cabin top, etc.


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## merc2dogs (Jun 5, 2004)

To support the balsa, rather than cutting props to size use a bunch of scrap 2x4 ripped down to about 3/8" or 1/2" thickness and some to 1/4 or 3/8. 

Wear a hard hat when you put the balsa in place, then hold it with your head and place one of the strips across then spring a few of the other boards up to hold it in place. Put as many cross bits and springs as you think you need. The hard hat's easier to clean than hair, and frees both hands to speed up the work.

The strip across the balsa evens out the pressure so you don't get divots, and springing the strips in place to hold it works better than trying to cut a brace with an exact fit, and 2x stock is tons cheaper than buying dowels.
You can place them as close together as you want for more pressure if needed.

tape on the cross bits will prevent the resin from sticking if/when it starts to bleed through.
the spring makes it self adjusting so it takes up space as the resin levels out

Much easier to do it from outside.

You DO need two layers of fiberglass for strength. But the fiberglass can be built up in place, use "T" headed pins, or very short staples to hold it up, then remove the pins or staples as soon as the resin cures enough to hold the cloth in place

Ken.


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

I suppose if the inside layer is as insubstantial as the OP states, it may not be feasible to do this from the top. I can't wait to see the pix!


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I have some pix already on film, I'll see if I can't dig em out tonight. I'll be sure to bring a digital cam with me to get some before pictures.


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## idontwantanaccount (May 18, 2005)

*recoring from the inside*

I have done some recoring work from both the inside and the outside. My experience is that recoring from the outside is easier, except that the finish work can take more time than you save with the fiberglass work if the area is small to moderate. If the deck is already painted, going at from the outside makes all the sense in the world because it is easy to match paint or repaint the whole deck. If you have original gel coat & molded nonskid on the deck the choice is harder. Work from the inside can typically be concealed by the headliner so a perfectly faired job is not necessary. To work from the inside, wet out the area with epoxy, then glue in the balsa with epoxy thickened with silica. A generous amount of thick epoxy should be applied the center of small to moderately sized balsa sections and pressed into place until epoxy oozes out the sides (Clean up with a plastic scraper). Brace in place using a piece of thin ply (covered with plastic) & numerous cheap pine battens from the local lumber yard (flexed into place). Laminate each fiberglass layer from the inside by wetting out the area and then waiting util tacky (e.g., after 30 min for 60 min pot life) and then pressing precut cloth sections into the tacky epoxy. Use a roller to eliminate voids and then paint on fresh epoxy for the next layer or finish coat. Use staples (remove as each layer kicks) or thickened epoxy if you have area that are problematic.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

Thank you for that detailed response.


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## mikehoyt (Nov 27, 2000)

interesting discussion.

Mike
J27 #150


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

ZZ, 
If you can get the balsa core to set in place with thickened epoxy (and lots of patience holding it in place until it kicks) to hold you can put the glass back in the same way (i.e, half kicked thickened epoxy troweled on and push the glass into it. Do it in manageable sections and use a bunch of plastic thumbtacks/t-pins to hold it up until it starts to kick then use regular epoxy and a roller to wet the glass out. Leave the pins in place until it's solid, then grind off the heads and smooth the interior as needed. Finish it with paint or a vinyl liner if needed.
If you do it in sections you may want to do seams, or one big sheet over the whole thing. It's about strength not fracture lines.

If you really want to go esoteric - vacuum bagging won't work in your situation but a balloon might (blow up mattress anyone?) Test first, your results may vary 

Remember the epoxy secret - epoxy doesn't stick to wax paper or waxed surfaces. Use liberally, often and before you THINK you need it.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I would highly recommend doing the repair from the topside, not from the bottom. First, getting a properly laid up laminate without voids is much more difficult from the bottom—since gravity is working against you. Second, you have to really be careful when glassing inside the boat or you can make a really amazing mess...that will take forever to clean up—which isn't the case when working from the top down. Third, it will go much faster if you work from the top down. You also do need to put a layer of fiberglass on the side you're working from—since that is what gives the cored laminate its strength, as others have stated. 

The way a cored laminate works is that the two layers of fiberglass act as the top and bottom of an I-beam effectively, one in tension and one in compression with a stress web, the core material, between them. This makes it far stronger than solid laminate of the same weight would be. Not glassing the interior will result in a one-sided I-beam...which is pretty weak. 

For core material, I'd go with divinylcell or Airex foam rather than balsa.  It is probably going to be a lot easier to work with. ContourKore balsa is great to work with, but have you priced it recently???


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

Yes I've checked the price of those. Its more than a $1 per sq ft increase over balsa. Marine plywood is by far cheaper. Then balsa, then the foam as far as price goes.


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## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

I'll say again that the scope of the area you're recoring is too big to do from the inside. I sincerely wish you good luck if you go that route, but I don't see a repair stretching from the companionway to the foredeck ending well.

Much of the repaired area will be under non-skid, right? Non-skid is very easy to paint with durable products like Interlux Interdeck.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Yes, but ease of working with it may more than make up for the price difference.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

sailingdog said:


> Yes, but ease of working with it may more than make up for the price difference.


Not sure I follow. How much different is it going to be working with a plastic/foam core as opposed to plywood?


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Balsa and Plywood don't bend—foam does, at least Airex does, Divinylcell less so. Most cabin tops aren't flat, so some curves are needed. IIRC, ContourKore balsa is pre-cut with kerfs in it so it can be somewhat more flexible than plain balsa would be.


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## motovationcycles (Dec 2, 2008)

*Deck core*

Trevor,
Like I told the guy in the other thread. I have over 15 year professional experience with these type of repairs. your boat is not very far from me. Give me a call at my shop:
Motovation Cycles & Accessories 301-472-1811. (Let them know when you call it is about my boat, They screen my calls from all of the telemarketers).I will be glad to have a look at it with you and get a game plan togther. I am sure we can swap some labor back and forth between our boats!


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Ditto on the labor Trevor. 
I got a bottom to do and a locker to re-floor and re-glass.
It's always easier to measure twice when there are two people.


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## donhaller (Dec 19, 2008)

That goes three times Trevor. Dan and ChucklesR, I'd be glad to help out with any of your boat chores. This will help me learn to do the work on my own boat.

Send me a PM when you need some help!


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## Capnblu (Mar 17, 2006)

Too bad you guys don't live in BC. Try re-fitting a Tayana 42 with two artifical hips, on your own.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

Thanks for all the offers of help, I'm reading over the requirements for the fillers and resins now. Trying to decide what's the best to use. I'll probably use the West systems, but not exactly sure of everything I'll need. I've been reading their website.



motovationcycles said:


> Trevor,
> Like I told the guy in the other thread. I have over 15 year professional experience with these type of repairs. your boat is not very far from me. Give me a call at my shop:
> Motovation Cycles & Accessories 301-472-1811. (Let them know when you call it is about my boat, They screen my calls from all of the telemarketers).I will be glad to have a look at it with you and get a game plan togther. I am sure we can swap some labor back and forth between our boats!


Thanks for the offer Dan, I'm actually going down to the boat this weekend. Helping a friend move on friday, and sailing on saturday. Do you work on saturday? BTW I'm more than happy to help out others on their boats, and have connections to a machine shop if you need some strange parts. I'm a certified automotive machinist.


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## motovationcycles (Dec 2, 2008)

*Saturday*



zz4gta said:


> Thanks for all the offers of help, I'm reading over the requirements for the fillers and resins now. Trying to decide what's the best to use. I'll probably use the West systems, but not exactly sure of everything I'll need. I've been reading their website.
> 
> Thanks for the offer Dan, I'm actually going down to the boat this weekend. Helping a friend move on friday, and sailing on saturday. Do you work on saturday? BTW I'm more than happy to help out others on their boats, and have connections to a machine shop if you need some strange parts. I'm a certified automotive machinist.


My shop is open From 9:00am to 3:00pm Saturday. Give me a call I Will come over and take a look. By the Way I went sailing yesterday. Tried out my "Victoria" remote control Sailboat my wife bought me for Christmas.


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## idontwantanaccount (May 18, 2005)

*material*

The contour-core balsa works great for curved surfaces. Just remember to fill the kerfs before applying. FWIW you can also bend ply over curves that aren't too radical--just lay up 2-3 of thinner sheets to get the requisite thickness instead of one thick sheet. You could also kerf yourself or apply in smaller squares. Another couple of thoughts for you... if you are using the West epoxy, the gudgeon bros (West system) people are great resources if you need some advice on the project--just give them a call. Also if you do end up doing it overhead you could do it sections. Just be sure to prep properly and overlap layers of glass. You might also think about using stainless/monel staples to fasten the inside cloth layers to the core and not have to worry about grinding off or removal.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I like the idea of stainless staples, thank you. Can you typically find them at home depot and the like?


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## idontwantanaccount (May 18, 2005)

*staples*

I wouldn't think home depot would carry that kind of thing, but I have never checked. My favorite place to order that kind of thing is Jamestown Distributors.


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## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

McMaster Carr (click for link) carries them. They also carry everything else. Just type "stainless steel staple" into the search box.


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## SimonV (Jul 6, 2006)

Call me stupid if I have missed something. How bad is this rotted/wet core? Could you possibly use the West System and saturated the area with epoxy pumped in under pressure. At my marina in Queensland there is a CT 41 that has had this procedure done and and it turned out very good and solid.


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## motovationcycles (Dec 2, 2008)

SimonV said:


> Call me stupid if I have missed something. How bad is this rotted/wet core? Could you possibly use the West System and saturated the area with epoxy pumped in under pressure. At my marina in Queensland there is a CT 41 that has had this procedure done and and it turned out very good and solid.


I have done many repairs of this type. Pumping epoxy in is not the best repair. It is a good stop gap measure until a complete and proper repair can be made. There are several issues that need to be dealt with such as: Killing all of the rot spores present (if balsa or plywood)to prevent the rot from spreading, complete drying before injection, not causing more delamination by using too much pressure in an attempt to completely fill any voids., increased weight, and decreased strength.


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## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

Simon - unless you're dealing with a very small area (less than 1 sq ft) then "drilling and filling" is completely inadequate. I tried it when I was intimidated by the prospect of cutting open the decks and doing a proper recore.

What I found is that a recore, in addition to being the right way of repairing it, is also far easier.

I would not use the drill and fill for a stop-gap; it makes the eventual recore much more difficult as you have to get all of that cured epoxy out of there. That's no fun and causes unnecessary damage to the remaining skin.


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## pcyc2 (Feb 27, 2003)

Don't and try and reinvent the wheel. Coring is fixed from the outside. Cut out bad core, and leave inner laminate in place and rebuild on that laminate. Or hire a professional to do the job properly.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*While..*

While you can drill & fill DRY deck delamination, as can happen in foam cores or in hot environments, you can not effectively fix wet core with this method. Wet core is wet core no matter how much epoxy you inject in. Epoxy only penetrates dry rot. If the core is moist the epoxy will not displace the water and take its place. In 25 years of tearing into boats I've yet to see a cored deck or cored lamination that exhibited dry rot. It's always either wet or dry but I've never seen dry rot..

Penetrating epoxies, or thinned West System, is meant for dry not wet core fixes. Even then it does not work very well and does not penetrate as one may think it would..


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Heck Trevor just cut the top off, take it home and make a new one with the fittings you need where you need them, then tab and glass it back on and non-skid the whole thing.
Custom boat with a solid deck to walk on, lighter than the original.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

LOL... while this sounds simpler, you'd have to make the fiberglass far heavier than the cored deck would be to get the same strength and stiffness. 



chucklesR said:


> Heck Trevor just cut the top off, take it home and make a new one with the fittings you need where you need them, then tab and glass it back on and non-skid the whole thing.
> Custom boat with a solid deck to walk on, lighter than the original.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Well - you sound like you and your posse are ready to take on a big project so I'll wish you well. A couple of suggestions...

Don't pull the entire underside ot the deck off at one time. The boat will flex and you'll be epoxying a few bends and twists into the hull that shouldn't be there. Do it a small section at a time.

Think about using an alternate method. Cut 2 1/2 inch longitudinal channels out of the existing underside. Lay in a 3/4" stringer (wood/foam/carbon fibre/whatever) and then cover the stringer with several layers of roving. Once you have a complete structure of stringers, finish it off with some trnasverese ribbing done the same way. Then core between the stringers - use Airex. Cover everything with a bit of roving. 

Remember NOT to use balsa in areas where hardware will pierce the deck. It is not strong enough from a compression standpoint. Use plywood. Make epoxy plugs on each hole.

Good Luck - Post Pics !!


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## SimonV (Jul 6, 2006)

I am just glad I have a dry deck, I would have messed (EDIT BY CD) it up. Good luck and keep us informed.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I plan to document this repair the best I can to help others considering it's a pretty common problem. I got my bags packed for the weekend, going sailing saturday, and dropping the mast when we get her back in the slip. Also going to clean her out, and ready for the start on Feb 8th. 

Sailormann, thanks for the tips!


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Sailormann said:


> Well - you sound like you and your posse are ready to take on a big project so I'll wish you well. A couple of suggestions...
> 
> Don't pull the entire underside ot the deck off at one time. The boat will flex and you'll be epoxying a few bends and twists into the hull that shouldn't be there. Do it a small section at a time.


This is very good advice.



> Think about using an alternate method. Cut 2 1/2 inch longitudinal channels out of the existing underside. Lay in a 3/4" stringer (wood/foam/carbon fibre/whatever) and then cover the stringer with several layers of roving. Once you have a complete structure of stringers, finish it off with some trnasverese ribbing done the same way. Then core between the stringers - use Airex. Cover everything with a bit of roving.


This is more work, but probably a better choice in the long run.



> Remember NOT to use balsa in areas where hardware will pierce the deck. It is not strong enough from a compression standpoint. Use plywood. Make epoxy plugs on each hole.


Make the sections where the hardware comes through the deck solid glass that is tapered to meet the cored areas so you don't get a hard transition line if you can avoid it. Solid glass is a much better solution than pads of plywood, since the plywood can rot.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Makes sense, wood rottens.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

One last question on materials, I'm looking at picking up the following and wanted to know what else I was missing. Please feel free to chime in. 


750361 
Epoxy Resin 105-B 10.3 Lbs. $68.99 $68.99 
This item is on sale. - Our Regular Price: $74.99 - You are saving: $6.00 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

750364 
Fast Hardener 205-B 2.3 Lbs. $30.99 $30.99 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

750408 
Colloidal Silica 406-7 0.8 Lbs. $17.99 $17.99 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

751507 
Episize 9oz. Glass Tape 733 4.4 Lbs. $90.99 $90.99 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subtotal: $208.96


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## idontwantanaccount (May 18, 2005)

*what else?*

Buy the dispenser pumps for the epoxy--well worth the cost. Also, I have always thought West episize fiberglass was overpriced, its much cheaper to buy a few feet off of a roll and to cut your own strips. Just make sure the cloth (esp. mat or cloth/mat composites) are compatible with epoxy. Last time I think I bought cloth from raka, but there are numerous sources if you search for them.


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## Myblueheaven (Sep 7, 2003)

*core repair photos???? please post your progress*

Please take images and post em here of the process. I (we) would like to see how this works out. I need to do the same.

thanks, Chris
([email protected])


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## Gary M (May 9, 2006)

I have done this on fairly small sections, no more than maybe a foot square. I used wax paper over 1/4" plywood propped up with flexible wooden pieces to first hold the coring in place then the two layers of glass. I will be doing 4 more small spots as soon as it is warm enough.

Worked fine, no real issues but I would be nervous about a large area. Start small and see how it goes.

Good Luck
Gary


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I have two peices in place now. I do have photos but won't be able to upload them until tomorrow. I'll be down this weekend to continue the work. I may only repair about a foot in front of the chain plates this season, and complete the work next winter. We'll see how this weekend goes.


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