# Pulling up the anchor single handed. Tips?



## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

The joy of single handing is something I have revisited this year with more than half of my outings last season being solo. My anchor roller and electric windlass situation isn't sorted out so I've been using the Fortress on rope all summer with me weighing it by hand. This has worked well, except when the wind is up.

I've had one or two days when I felt like I was making trips back to the wheel to regain position, then forward to pull in rode, too many times. I have tried forward idle with the autopilot but it generally moves me too fast and I risk over-running the rode and fouling the prop.

I can recall much windier situation, and times where I was close to a lee shore, where getting the hook up solo would be a real challenge. I have the benefit of being able to think about this problem and discuss it before making changes, hence this thread. I do plan to replace at least my windlass switches, but more likely my entire windlass. 

Should I have a second windlass control at the helm? Any tips for pulling up the anchor solo in a blow, either by hand or with the windlass?

MedSailor


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## sharkbait (Jun 3, 2003)

1


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## misfits (Dec 9, 2011)

Why not a handheld remote to control the windless from the helm?
There was a recent article in one of the magazines where a hand held remote for a jeep or atv winch was used at a fraction of the price of a marine unit.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Currently, I have a handheld remote that is wired and secured to the bow rail that I use for the windlass. I also have a cockpit switch that I rarely use, mainly because I frequently use my saltwater washdown to wash the mud off the chain and anchor while raising it. I use an all chain rode, therefore, I use the weight of the chain to move the boat forward. I do this by hauling in just enough chain till it begins to tighten, then stop and allow the chain's weight to advance the boat. It only takes a few times doing this to position the boat directly over the anchor, then when it pops free of the bottom, I retrieve it to the anchor rest using nothing but the windlass.

When I was a bit younger and fishing the offshore waters of the Atlantic for bluefin tuna from a small powerboat, I utilized an anchor retriever system that was nothing more than a red fender buoy and a ring that connected to the buoy via a short length of nylon rope. It worked like a champ. It was just a matter of clipping the ring over the rode, then motoring upwind or uptide at a 45 degree angle to the anchor. Take a look at 




Good luck,

Gary


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## padean (Jul 5, 2001)

Like you, when I single hand, it means making a few trips back and forth between the wheel and the anchor line - in general, the more wind, the more trips. 

I have read some interesting articles about bringing the line/rode alongside the boat and hauling the anchor in from the side or stern, but it didn't seem to make much sense to me and I am more afraid of getting the anchor line fouled in the prop than I am of a few trips back an forth, as much of a pain as that is to do. It may take a little more time that way, but I have not found it to be a problem otherwise. I have no interest in adding a windlass until I am too old to haul the anchor in by hand (and I'm not there ye).

So I plan to stalk this post to see what some much or our much wiser sailing colleagues come up with....


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## Barquito (Dec 5, 2007)

Until you get your windlass working. How about running the rode back to a winch? A mast mounted winch would be handy. For chain, you might need to clip another rope line on to the winch. Otherwise, if the boat is blowing around a bit, you may be able to pull a little in at a time as the boat swings around. If you are worried about having quick access to engine controls, maybe you could run the road to a cockpit winch and pull in from the stern.


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

Med, I will give you my method but it is for a windlass.

Considerations:
I never fight the boat or the wind. I use them to help.
I don't use engine in forward with AP unless its blowing well above 20kts.
I have well marked chain.
If I am in 10 meters of water I know I will stop at 10 meters of chain as it will take a moment to break out.
At 10 meters I must ensure there's no hill of chain in the locker so I can pull the last 10m up in one go.

My method 
I wait till a tiny lull in wind when chain slackers a bit and pull that slack in. Then stop and wait for the catanary weight of the chain to pull the boat forward giving me another slight bit of slack.
I keep the boat moving forward by taking up the slack when it appears.
At the point the anchor needs to break out I pause for it to do so. Its obvious when it does as the chain goes slack and then I wind it in as fast as possible.

With rode iI would do similar but have a turn asound a cleat so I could stop when the slack is taken.

Most important points: do it slow. Wait for the slack. Try to get the boat moving forward 

Btw I don't worry about the anchor dragging - it never does when plucking it for some weird reason


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I have a remote windlass control at the helm, but will only use it to drop the anchor, not retrieve it. You need to be at the bow to know you aren't towing your boat with the windlass. 

Certainly tricky to do singlehanded. I think you have little choice, but to motor over it, wind some in and repeat. I suppose you could try to get good at timing how much idle forward would keep up with the windlass, but it would vary based upon current and wind speed.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

certainly not my idea, I think it was in Good Old Boat but this makes an good wireless remote:

Wireless Winch Remote Control

I think in the article the guy had to open the unit up and seal with a bit of sealant at the screw holes and realign the gasket to get it to be water resistant.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

miatapaul said:


> certainly not my idea, I think it was in Good Old Boat but this makes an good wireless remote:
> 
> Wireless Winch Remote Control
> 
> I think in the article the guy had to open the unit up and seal with a bit of sealant at the screw holes and realign the gasket to get it to be water resistant.


I like this idea and also don't. It may not be the best part to go cheap on. If the switch were to fail in the "on" position bad things could happen. Perhaps an argument to have the breaker accessible from on deck.... or... if it is jamming up against something then in theory the breaker would blow on it's own?

I'll have to give this one some thought. Thanks for the link.

MedSailor


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## misfits (Dec 9, 2011)

miatapaul said:


> certainly not my idea, I think it was in Good Old Boat but this makes an good wireless remote:
> 
> Wireless Winch Remote Control
> 
> I think in the article the guy had to open the unit up and seal with a bit of sealant at the screw holes and realign the gasket to get it to be water resistant.


Bingo, that's the article I was trying to remember.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

misfits said:


> Bingo, that's the article I was trying to remember.


I seemed to skim over your post too, not sure how I missed it.


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## nolatom (Jun 29, 2005)

Use the seas to your advantage, to break the anchor out: once you've got the rode almost vertical, when the bow drops into a trough, take up the resulting slack and cleat it, real quick. Now, when the next sea lifts the bow, it also frees the anchor from the bottom.


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## Uricanejack (Nov 17, 2012)

When you figure out a good technique let me know. But this is how I do it. I’m sure it looks a right [email protected]#$
I have no winch, just some rope 10m of Chain and a 15kg lump of iron
Not much of a problem in light winds. Strong wind it’s a [email protected]#$. Bow blows of real easy. 
When its difficult. 
I start the donkey but leave it out of gear.
I take the anchor rode back to the one of my sheet winches the self-trailer. 
I go back up forward and take anchor line of the cleat on the fore deck.
Back to the sheet winch and wind like heck
Once the anchor is aweigh or when the chain comes over the roller. I go forward and pull the anchor up on to the roller by hand.
I don’t like to put in gear until I sight the anchor is clear. ( I’ve pulled up a sorts of crap)
Once the anchor is sighted and clear I can put into gear and get moving to open water.
No auto pilot so another reason not to put into gear until I have the anchor up.
Depending upon where I am I often don’t put engine in gear If I have sea room I put a sail up.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

I would just have to wonder, isn't buying a critical piece of equipment from Horror Fright kind of like keeping the insecticides on the spice rack? In a dark closet?

I got a "free" digital multimeter from them once. It was more than one full volt off at "12" volts. No one had even attempted to calibrate it, all that took was turning one screw.

Then a disposable [sic] buffer for one project that justified it. Except, the buffer's handle had to be attached with two of those knurled allen-key screws. And they packed two different sizes. No problem...just go back to the store and try again, or, they could mail me a new screw, expect it to take about eight weeks by China "sea" post.

But the kicker was a "jump box" they had on sale. A 17AH agm battery in a useful red plastic case, battery clamp wires, charging transformer, voltmeter, built-in test light, power port,....seemed like a useful box for only about $10 more than a raw battery would have cost. Yeah, well...the built-in voltmeter didn't work. I discovered that was because it hadn't been PLUGGED IN internally. And the 17AH battery was just dropped loose in the case, no attempt made to screw or tape or strap it down, not even any padding to keep it from banging around. Back it went.

Would I trust those people with ANYTHING that might even remotely (no pun intended) have to do with pulling a heavy load at a critical time?

Is this white sweet powder the arsenic, or the confectioners' sugar? 
Let's try it and find out!

Sorry, no, I'm quite happy with the $1.99 adjustable wrench I bought to use in a small parts repair kit. That one just has to be stronger than the flesh on my thumb. But that's about the limit of HF tools for me. If that one breaks, I won't cry. I hope.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Over the years I've purchased many things from HF and never had a bad experience. This includes two drills, one electric and battery powered, an electric grinder, electric buffer, lots of drills, socket wrenches, tarps, bungee cords, etc... Never, not once, had a dud. And, I also got two of those free multi-meters - both worked perfectly. My son purchased a genset from them and it runs like a champ, puts out exactly what was advertised and he has used it for four years. And, the prices are always lower than anyone else. I guess it all depends upon what you buy.

Gary


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

" And, I also got two of those free multi-meters - both worked perfectly."
OK, easy question. If you hold both of them on a '12' volt battery at the same time, on the 20vdc scale, do they both READ identically? Now repeat in your wall socket, on the 200VAC scale.
That's not as good as using a calibrated voltage source, but the wall socket should be showing about 117VAC, and a fast running alternator about 14.4 volts. I'd be shocked (no pun intended) if your meters were within 1/10th of a volt on the DC scale, and doubt they come within 2 or 3 tenths--which is significant in a 12 volt system.
Obviously some of their stuff works well enough some of the time...but I'd rather try my luck in Vegas, where at least I'd get free drinks while I gambled.(G)


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

I installed the windlass on our boat. While the thread was started with a question of how to rise the anchor single handed I must include the equipment on the boat as it is part of the system. We have a wireless remote control that I use at the bow and an anchor switch at the helm. As explained before the slack is taken up and the boat is pulled forward. I don't have the engine in gear while rising the anchor. The problems that do occur are mud on the chain, mud on the anchor and the shank not lining up with the bow roller. The windlass power is routed thru a breaker and thru a heavy duty on/off switch. When the anchor is to be raised/lowered the switch is turned on and when the anchor is set the switch is turned off. I used reversing solenoid from Amazon and a wireless control from Ebay.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

Hf has some crap like the free meeters, have not had one work out of 6 or so and even had one pop and sputter. But other things are OK have not had issues with things they don't give away. Screw drivers, flashlights, meeters and other stuff they give away are crap for sure.

And in this case you can buy a few and have some spares and it is an auxiliary method of controlling the windless not the primary. 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

When getting out of a tight spot, in a strong head wind, I have sometimes run my anchor rode back along the side deck to the sheet winches and cockpit. You will need a bow roller. This lets me raise my anchor ,while still being at, and in control of the tiller and engine controls. Eliminates all that running forward then back to the cockpit time and time again,to put her back on course.
When I get to open water ,with lots of sea room, only then do I wind my anchor rode on my drum winch. 
I have seen fish boats with the anchor rode run down the side decks, and the anchor winch in the cockpit, for this reason.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

hellosailor, I just tested both on the same outlet at home and they were within .2 volts of each other - I can live with that. Now, for the DC alternator, I'll have to wait till the boat goes back in the water in April. In reality, it doesn't make a bit of difference to me. I have a great battery monitor on the boat that does that for me. The meters are dirt cheap, but I only need them to determine whether or not something is working, or not working, whatever the case may be. As for the odds in Vegas, well, having done music jobs in casinos I can assure you that HF provides better odds with their junk giveaways. Just sayin'

Good luck,

Gary


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Have wireless remote for AP and windlass control on very long wire. Sometimes still need to run back and forth. Can't see rode from cockpit.

In strong wind set throttle so boat doesn't move and little to no tension on chain. Then use "weight of chain" technique well described above. Stil need to goose throttle time and again. Try very hard to not have windlass move boat forward. Told that's bad for the windlass. Try hard to not run windlass for more then a few seconds at a time. May use AP to line up boat but probably wishful thinking. 

In light air just weight of chain technique. Sometimes will put some main up to keep boat lined up with wind.

Find its very slow. Find chain is dirty so once have room flush chain best I can in chain locker but it's always still stinky. When I have access to a dock hose always wash that area out extensively. Find leaving enough chain down so anchor is in the water as I power out helps but need to have anchor below boat and go slow so nothing gets scratched. Find pulling anchor up and down a few times works better. Hate dried mud on fordeck. 

Don't think there's a good way to do this except when the smoke goes straight up. Then make a pile of chain and pull it up.


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

I agree with much of the above. Particularly Mark's post (#9) which is to say: Use the boat's momentum and the wind and waves. In calm weather it's really easy; just go slowly. At about 15 knots of wind I find that it's a bit more challenging, but I still do the same - which is to take it really slow and let the boat move up on the chain as the weight of the chain pulls it. At higher winds I may need to put on a little forward engine. Once the boat breaks free, I have to be really careful that I don't drift into someone or something (like a lee shore!!). I get up as much scope as I can quickly. Basically at that point I'm going back to the cockpit and powering up to bring the boat into control, but slow enough that I don't scratch up my boat if the anchor is not at deck. If the anchor is not catted down, I'm back up to the front to finish the job. It's all about timing, but it works out. One of my big rules in this situation is NEVER run. Hey, I'm by myself, and this is one time when I'm not tethered into my jack line. So, slow and careful, but no wasted motion. That's a big deal - when single handing It's all about thinking through my procedures and getting all the gear in place for implementation.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Some great tips so far! Thanks to all for their experience. At least now I know I'm not the only one running back and fourth so much. 

Setting the throttle to be ghosting forward wasn't an option for me this year, but that's largely because my throttle cable was totally stretched out and shot. Fwd, neutral, reverse? Who knows! Bit of a guess really unless the hammer was down. While it sure added interest to my docking maneuvers to not know if I was in forward or neutral, the issue has since been fixed. Should be much easier to finesse the throttle forward when needed.

I've been using all chain for so many years now that I have actually forgotten some of my own tricks! Back when I was on a mixed rode I used to use my mast mounted halyard winches to raise the stubborn anchor. I also have a cabintop mounted electric winch which, with the help on one snatch block for a fair lead from the bow to the winch, could be used as a windlass that is within arms reach of the wheel.

Also good advice about how the chain pulls you forward. I've been playing with rope only this year. Although this isn't really the case when the wind is up, and that's when things are difficult. 

Another idea which I may implement is to paint the chain a bright color in the area when I would want to stop the windlass. That way if I'm raising it from the helm, I can see the bright color on the chain at the right spot and stop the windlass before the anchor is all the way up. This is essential for me because I have a bobstay that the anchor could snag on, and if it keeps coming up, bad things could happen. In addition my anchor doesn't always come up the right way. Sometimes it's upside down. Actually, it seem like that's always the case. I definitely need to be able to raise it so that it's just at the waterline or slightly above, then once motored clear of obstructions I can finish the rest. 

MedSailor


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

OK The OP asks what can you do to make recovering the anchor easier without an electric windlass when you are single handed.

*CAVEAT THIS DOES NOT WORK WITH ALL BOATS AND SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED IN CROWDED ANCHORAGES.
*
Center the traveler and let out the mainsheet a little. Hoist the mainsail. The idea is to get the mainsail to fill and move the boat forward at an angle.

Now you are on the foredeck and can start to recover the rode. Cleat it off and the boat will come round on to the other tack. Uncleat and recover more rode. As you get close to the anchor you can arrange to have it break out and continue on the preferred tack.

It is worth having a practice on a light wind day and better still with someone on the helm and the engine running in case it all goes horribly wrong.

I have used this on a Jaguar 22, a Ryton 38 ketch and a 44 ft cutter.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

I let the boat do most of the work...

*1)* Quick blast of forward gear while aiming in the direction of the rode.

*2)* Walk to the bow and _collect_ as much rode as you can while the boats inertia glides you towards the direction of the set anchor.

*3)* If you don't get to 1:1 on the first try, you usually won't, snub the rode and go back and give it another quick blast and repeat.

*4)* When you get the rode to 1:1 or near 1:1 (vertical) snub it and now walk back and use the engine to break the anchor free from the bottom. This saves your back.

*5)* Walk back to the bow and haul up the last remaining dead weight of chain & anchor. This is usually not all that difficult with anchors under 60 pounds....

In higher winds you'll make more trips but can still be done quite easily even with most fin keelers.

I have not used my windlass in a few years and do all the setting and retrieval solo, even with the family or other guests on-board. The key is letting the boat do 90% of your work...


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## WanderingStar (Nov 12, 2008)

A good thread, thanks for your methods.
TQA, your method reminds me that I used to sail off anchor every time, the boats had no engine.
MaineSail, that's about how I do it. WS is so slow at ahead idle that I can often just leave it in gear. If I need to keep her head to wind I can set the mizzen hard in. I don't have autopilot, but I can lash the helm. The weight of the boat and her full keel are an asset, she doesn't blow off quickly. I do have to consider possible wind shifts, current changes, arrival of other boats. Sometimes that means anchoring a little farther off than I wish, but another hundred yards can make all the difference.


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## rbyham (Dec 25, 2012)

Dont have a windlass. Rode is about 30" of chain and then 5/8 rope. I often single-hand sail. I am interested in trying the use of cockpit winches to pull anchor. I can see it fairly easy to walk rope rode back to cockpit but are there any secrets to avoiding the chain scarring deck as it comes on board? Maybe the marks would be minimal. But given a 31" boat I could haul almost all chain from the cockpit. I would probably stop the haul with the anchor just below water surface. This wold allow me to drag the anchor and get a good bit of this famous Charleston mud off before bringing all the way up. Interestingly I have a stern mounted lunch hook which I have weighed using a cockpit winch but never considered using sheet winches for pow anchor...


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

TQA said:


> OK The OP asks what can you do to make recovering the anchor easier without an electric windlass when you are single handed.
> 
> *CAVEAT THIS DOES NOT WORK WITH ALL BOATS AND SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED IN CROWDED ANCHORAGES.
> *
> ...


Sailing out the hook is something every cruiser should learn . Its amazing how many don't know this.I have done it for decades and teach others how to, as often as I can.


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

rbyham said:


> Dont have a windlass. Rode is about 30" of chain and then 5/8 rope. I often single-hand sail. I am interested in trying the use of cockpit winches to pull anchor. I can see it fairly easy to walk rope rode back to cockpit but are there any secrets to avoiding the chain scarring deck as it comes on board? Maybe the marks would be minimal. But given a 31" boat I could haul almost all chain from the cockpit. I would probably stop the haul with the anchor just below water surface. This wold allow me to drag the anchor and get a good bit of this famous Charleston mud off before bringing all the way up. Interestingly I have a stern mounted lunch hook which I have weighed using a cockpit winch but never considered using sheet winches for pow anchor...


Best keep your chain shorter than the distance from bow roller to cockpit winches . You can dump it in a milk crate.
As I mentioned. I only run my rode to the cockpit when I have to get out of a tight spot , until I can get clear, with sea room. Then I put it back on the winch drum, on the foredeck. That minimizes wear on the side decks. 
Try it for a while and see how much wear there is. Fish boats put plywood wear strips on their side decks


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## Uricanejack (Nov 17, 2012)

rbyham said:


> Dont have a windlass. Rode is about 30" of chain and then 5/8 rope. I often single-hand sail. I am interested in trying the use of cockpit winches to pull anchor. I can see it fairly easy to walk rope rode back to cockpit but are there any secrets to avoiding the chain scarring deck as it comes on board? Maybe the marks would be minimal. But given a 31" boat I could haul almost all chain from the cockpit. I would probably stop the haul with the anchor just below water surface. This wold allow me to drag the anchor and get a good bit of this famous Charleston mud off before bringing all the way up. Interestingly I have a stern mounted lunch hook which I have weighed using a cockpit winch but never considered using sheet winches for pow anchor...


You have pretty much the same system as me. I try and avoid winching the chain along the deck. I am usualy nearly up and down by the time the chain comes over the roller. I can usually pull from hand from there.
I sometimes winch back to the shrouds. Not further than the shrouds due to possible damage dragging a taught chain past the shrouds just didn't seam like a good idea.
The toughest bit is breaking out if well dug in. I can do that with the motor if I have to. 
My boat is a 35ft so simmillar sire to yours. In most conditions I can do by hand but if the wind is strong I use the sheet winches.


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

There is a method using a large buoy with a large ring, through which the anchor line runs. The idea is to shorten up as much as possible and power the anchor up to the buoy with the engine, then pull the anchor to the boat clear of the bottom.
I've never done it on a small scale, but I have done the same thing using a 65' crew boat (twin screw) as the buoy. Exciting times!
I've seen kits available for these systems for yachts and commercial fishing boats some years back, but I don't remember where.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

A couple of thoughts that might help.

This is the first thing I do, nearly every time I am about to weight anchor, unless in a very crowded spot. I put the motor in reverse and fully straighten the rode against the present wind/current. Especially with all chain, it may be laid out in a circuitous route on the bottom from shifts in wind and current. Knowing it is all laid out directly in front of you, should make it a bit easier to guess on how to power into it singlehanded. If you've run it over, it may be because the rode took a turn and you didn't.

Another thought would be to attach a small buoy to the anchor itself (many have a place to locate a trip line), on a length of line that approximately the depth. You would then have a visual on its exact location. I have this buoy aboard, but have rarely used it. My real intent has been to identify where my anchor actually is, so that others in crowded anchorages don't drop on top of it. This is especially necessary, when in light but shifting winds, and the anchor could be 90 off the beam, as one's rode hasn't been pulled straight. If you can see your anchor, you might be able to better judge how much forward thrust to apply when singlehanded.


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## alctel (Jan 25, 2014)

I've got a 45lb mantus and often single hand.

If it's calm, I use the 'pull up till tight, wait for boat to drift towards anchor, repeat' method

A bit windier and I give it a small shot of forward and then back to neutral

If its jammed in the bottom or windy, I'll use a chain hook to clip on a line and run it back to my big jib winches on the side of the cockpit


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Minnewaska said:


> A couple of thoughts that might help.
> 
> This is the first thing I do, nearly every time I am about to weight anchor, unless in a very crowded spot. I put the motor in reverse and fully straighten the rode against the present wind/current. Especially with all chain, it may be laid out in a circuitous route on the bottom from shifts in wind and current. Knowing it is all laid out directly in front of you, should make it a bit easier to guess on how to power into it singlehanded. If you've run it over, it may be because the rode took a turn and you didn't.


Funny, this never occurred to me to do before. I'll have to try it.



Minnewaska said:


> Another thought would be to attach a small buoy to the anchor itself (many have a place to locate a trip line), on a length of line that approximately the depth. You would then have a visual on its exact location. I have this buoy aboard, but have rarely used it. My real intent has been to identify where my anchor actually is, so that others in crowded anchorages don't drop on top of it. This is especially necessary, when in light but shifting winds, and the anchor could be 90 off the beam, as one's rode hasn't been pulled straight. If you can see your anchor, you might be able to better judge how much forward thrust to apply when singlehanded.


With our shifting winds and currents we routinely float all over our scope circle. Many years ago I was reading a blog of a sailor in Mexico who used an anchor float, only one day to have his boat float over it, and have it snag on some appendage under his boat. When the wind piped up his boat's appendage (rudder? prop?) pulled the anchor out and he was adrift, with no anchor and no ability to maneuver/power.

Since reading this I've not been tempted to use an anchor buoy except over foul ground.

MedSailor


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

MedSailor said:


> When the wind piped up his boat's appendage (rudder? prop?) pulled the anchor out and he was adrift, with no anchor and no ability to maneuver/power.
> 
> Since reading this I've not been tempted to use an anchor buoy except over foul ground.


I would think a hitch about 8ft below the surface, with a weight attached, would likely keep the line from ever getting under the boat.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

I am utterly amazed how many single handed sailors do NOT consider using the simple, anchor ball retrieval system. It's so easy, yet so many of the above posters insist on using winches not intended for that kind of strain. To me, it makes absolutely no sense at all to risk ripping a winch off the boat trying to retrieve the anchor, whey you could just slip a ring over the rode/chain and motor uptide/upwind and pick it up with absolutely no effort. Once the anchor shank slips into the ring, a 5 year old child could easily haul in a 50-pound, mud caked anchor. Am I missing something?

Good luck,

Gary


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## sailordanny (Sep 27, 2015)

Another alternative when using a chain/nylon rode is to use a retrieval line attached to the anchor and the chain/nylon join. Once the chain breaks the surface the retrieval line can be used to hoist the anchor. With a 65 lb anchor I at times use a halyard and winch for this last part. this avoids the chain dragging on the deck.


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## rbyham (Dec 25, 2012)

Interestingly I was at the boat today working on an oil line on the Yanmar. A friend stopped by to chat. I mentioned this discussion about anchoring single-handed indicating that this ring/bouy idea sounded interesting. He was already aware of the method and even offered me a ring from his boat as he is about to sell. SO it seems I may be joining the ring/bouy clan before long...


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## misfits (Dec 9, 2011)

rbyham said:


> Interestingly I was at the boat today working on an oil line on the Yanmar. A friend stopped by to chat. I mentioned this discussion about anchoring single-handed indicating that this ring/bouy idea sounded interesting. He was already aware of the method and even offered me a ring from his boat as he is about to sell. SO it seems I may be joining the ring/bouy clan before long...


We used this approach to retrieve an anchor & rode back when I used to anchor out on the ledge to tuna or shark fish many years ago. When you're trying to recover 500-600 feet of rode it's pretty slick but it's still a lot of work...

Granted a sailboat wouldn't have that much rode out but if one was in a crowded anchorage with some wind or tide, I suspect it would get interesting trying to recover a rode single handed using this method.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

When anchoring by myself I put a trip line it's a float on the Rocnas roll bar. That way I can approximate where it actually is.buried. Fortunately I have a manual windlass so I can mechanically pull the boat up over the anchor. We have 90 feet of chain. 
Plus 350 rope 

Don't most electrical windlass have mechanical overrides like a slot for a winch handle should they get jammed. You could almost do the same thing.

I was cautioned years ago about using the windlass if electrical to pull the boat forward over the anchor. That is a sure way to burn the motor out. 

Dave


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

I'd generally assumed an electric windlass (oh, you kids and your modern conveniences!) was chosen by the ratings, which are rating for lifting an anchor and chain weight. They're not rated, or chosen, for tearing boulders off the bottom or hauling boats across parking lots. wet or dry.

Like the winch on a 4WD, if you know that the continuous working duty is, and how much load you are going to apply to them, they shouldn't be damaged by heavy use _as long as it is within spec._

They are not as fragile as engine starter motors, which are designed differently as high-impulse motors with a working cycle of perhaps 15 seconds and a required cool-down of 20 minutes after that. (Ballpark numbers.) Or home paper shredders, similarly built, that are often good for 5 minutes of run time followed by 30 minutes of cool-down, unless you get into the "commercial" product range.

But really, given the size, weight, cost, power consumption of electric windlasses, no matter how you slice it, they're going to be easy to burn out, unless you're really willing to study the specs and ante up (till it hurts) before installing one. Aren't they?

Not the winches' fault.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

chef2sail said:


> I was cautioned years ago about using the windlass if electrical to pull the boat forward over the anchor. That is a sure way to burn the motor out.
> 
> Dave


This information is on page one of my instruction manual. And yes, there is a manual override feature that allows me to connect a handle and disengage the electric motor to raise the anchor.

All the best,

Gary :2 boat:


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

HS
You're right of course. It's amazing how many people use the windlass to move the boat!! Also amazing people don't use a chain lock or snubbers to protect its gearing. At least once a year seems I'm next to someone standing on the fordeck swearing at the thing when it's their fault it's fried or a tooth broke free because they abused it.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Remember the OP and his question. When you are single handed what do you do. 

Chatter about windlass rating really are not really important unless you believe that is the proper technique for pulling up to the anchor when you are singlehanding. 

This conversation would be useful to those of us who actually do this vrs some theory driven discussion.

I have weighed and dropped anchor many times when singlehanding. I take great care to minimize my exposure to falling overboard by minimizing my trips out of the safety of the cockpit. To this end many of my sailing line including raise the main, e z jacks are led to the cockpit. The thought of running forward and aft ward to raise or lower the anchor numerous times would increase exposure to danger IMHO.. 

I try to go up to the foredeck and get low/ sit down when doing anchor work both raising as well as lowering. The mechanical windlass affords me that luxury. That's why I suggested a technique of using the manual override on electric windlasses to pull up on the anchor as well as pull it out. When I reach my float I know I am above the anchor. 

I then have the choice of going back to the helm moving the boat forward the get it unstuck or using the leverage in calmer seas of just using the manual windlass. I usually forgo the process of washdown when singlehanded when there is wind when by myself as I don't want to increase the time away from the helm.


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## rckfd (Dec 3, 2015)

I only have a 32 foot boat but this may help. Generally I sail off anchor I figure they been doing it longer than motoring so how hard can it be right. What I do is lock the helm straight up, rig the halyard go to the bow open the locker and gently pull. I find in strong 20kts + takes a little to get it going but once she moves its easy as no wind. Once the rode is straight up raise the main cleat in mid ships and then back to the bow. I stand at the bow let luff wait for her to point away from any danger and pull like . Once up I don't worry about getting it out of the water I cleat it off and gingerly stroll back to the helm.At the helm I push the boom to windward and rudder toward the boom no more than 5º until she starts backing and the main fills. once the main fills I leet it go steer straight as she starts moving forward ease and turn down a little until you get steerage. Once under way stand on the stern and bow(everybody is looking)
bob


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Still would appreciate further advice. What do you do once anchor breaks free?. If you're have neighbors and it's windy or there is a current once the anchor breaks free if the bow drifts off you need to get back to the helm right quick. I'm built for comfort not speed like the song says.
Think about this before I anchor. Look at forecast for day I think we'll be leaving. Try to be what will be upwind from the channel or deep water where no one will likely anchor. Try to be near channel even knowing there be more boats going by. Then may have option of breaking free and heading straight into the deeper channel or water. Sort out getting anchor fully up after leaving anchorage where there's room if I drift for awhile.
Ugly but safer.


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## sailordanny (Sep 27, 2015)

This is where I use the trip line attached to the chain/nylon join rather than buoyed. With 60 feet of chain and trip line generally the anchor breaks out after the trip line is secured. Once the trip line holds the anchor off the bottom you can return the cockpit and navigate. If you secure the trip line to a halyard with the halyard led to the cockpit then you do not need to leave the cockpit until you need to secure the anchor at the bow.


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## rckfd (Dec 3, 2015)

Outbound!
Advice once you weigh on your boat you have about a week to walk to the helm. Don't anchor in Tiverton basin or in the Woods hole channel. Boom on center line rudder straight she may wag a bit but she aint moving.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

R
Tx. for reply. Experience may vary. We weigh 30 tons. We are over 49' ft.LOA. Good anchoring in the islands is usually close to shore with the centers filled with rental buoys and quite deep and filled by 4-5p.m.. Winds during kite season and with Xmas winds are commonly in the 20s even in the basins. We have enough windage that once the bow falls off we move along. So try to anchor near entrance before buoys. Commonly will have 150-200' of chain out. Or if too deep in the center on windward edge of basin. Anchor may pull out before truly up and down when weighing. Bottom usually sand so will rebury if not brought a fair way up. Usually to less than depth. Have fast windlass but still takes some time. Use 5:1 or better even with Rocna.
Lagoons are often shallow. Often have little choice of where to anchor. Those spots crowded. Or if small so limited that any real drift means you're not floating anymore. Plan to avoid these unless not alone. 
Maine is difficult as well. In many places mooring fields leave no room for anchoring. Little that's there requires more chain than I have or swing includes areas less than my 6 1/2' due to rocks. Need to be quite careful of where you drop.
I learned to bite the bullet and put mooring fees in the cruising budget if alone.
If I can anchor great but if not safe just suck it up. Find this issue, not the sailing, is what keeps me from moving all to often when alone. Having someone else at the bow watching the chain and pushing the button is so reassuring.
Chain/rope rodes requires moving from chain to rope on windlass. This takes time and feeding rope down below takes time. So, among many other reasons, don't use chain/rope rode unless I'm not alone and it's very deep.
Oh well.


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## rckfd (Dec 3, 2015)

Outbound!
Your funny


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## SOLPHIAIR (Mar 15, 2015)




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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Tx.
Life's too short to be serious. But hope we all muddle through.


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## sneuman (Jan 28, 2003)

As long as you're not fighting a strong wind and/or current (and assuming an all-chain rode), use the canternary to your advantage. It will take some time, but the chain will droop near the entry point on the bow and allow you to take it up easily hand-over-hand.

Voyage of Symbiosis: Voyage Of Symbiosis


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