# Sticky  Product Reviews



## Cruisingdad

Equipment & Gear Reviews​
I thought this might be a nice sticky for everyone. No offense, but I do not trust all the magazines to give me an honest review!! I want to know what sailors think and real life applications.

So... post away with BOAT ONLY Gear reviews. If they really irritate you... say it and why. If you found something really cool and want to let others know... again, the same.

GROUND RULES: STAY ON TOPIC. I do not mind some debate on product reviews, but let's keep it on topic and civil or I will delete it. Also, list the product you are reviewing in the subject. It will make it easier to flip through pages and find things. Look at my example below on the Garmin 478 GPS.

There is an old phrase that says, "If you ask 4 sailors their opinions you will get 5 different answers." I agree with that... so welcome all opinions. This should be good for both seasoned and new boat buyers alike. Let's make it fun and informative.

- CD


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## Cruisingdad

*Garmin 478 GPS*

Garmin 478 GPS map.

What a really cool unit. It has preloaded all of the coastal maps for the US. I believe it even has Hawaii and Alaska. You can overlay weather on it, output it to your pc, etc.

It is like a mini, portable full function GPS. I have always said all that you need in a backup is lat and lon so you can overlay, but should you lose your main system, this think would sure be nice to have. Neat technology that would have been unheard of ten years ago.

Cost: It lists about 999 at West. I have seen it advertised in the 7XX. We got it at west last weekend for about $650... and I am sure they still made a profit!!

- CD


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## Cruisingdad

*Self-Inflateable Fenders*

I cannot give you the model number, but they are the self inflateable fenders with the little pop-out finger pump.

It sounds great because you can always refill your fenders without having to have a seperate pump. Instead, mine just seem to leak out of there and you do not have enough years in your life to refill a large fender with a finger pump.

You are better off staying with the traditional fenders and filling them the old fashioned way. You will save more money that way too. DONT BUY THEM, in my opinion.

- CD


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## phallo153

Even more than a sticky, IMHO this topic warrants its own forum, with the product name as the topic and all linked reviews and replies in the same thread - easier to keep organized and to browse through. As a sticky, product reviews and responses/reviews from other users will soon become jumbled with other posts, and after a few pages the only way to pull all the replies together will be through a search anyway. Would seem to make more sense to make it a forum and keep products, reviews, and replies all in the same thread.

This is certainly one of the first places I come to do a search on a product before I buy or consider anything.


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## labatt

I was going to suggest the same... a new forum for people to put in product reviews. Putting them all in one thread will be difficult as soon as there are 20+ and commentary. Along the same lines, I'd love to see a forum for companies to put press releases or new product announcements - a forum where the people won't get jumped on for "advertising" their product. That would be a huge benefit to me!


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## TrueBlue

As was mentioned, some form of indexing, or cross reference system certainly needs to be co-ordinated. Perhaps if a forum format is decided, it could be set up with categories, so relevant reviews and articles could be initially posted in order by the author. 

Otherwise CD (it is his brainchild) would need to do some regular organizing to avoid the need for inquiring sailors to sift through pages and pages of random reviews . . . just to find recommendations for say, the best bilge vermin eradicator.


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## sailingdog

Teshannon-

IIRC, the Garmin in question has a bayonet mount antenna and you can get an extension cord for it, so that the antenna can be remotely mounted. However, it generally will work inside a fiberglass boat fairly well. I have the older 276 model, which didn't come pre-loaded with the coastal maps and doesn't support the XM WX weather info. It also does terrestrial (car) navigation and comes with City Navigator or some other set of USA maps preloaded IIRC. 

They're excellent little units. I got mine primarily for use in my truck, but also carry it aboard as a backup to the main Garmin I have. 

As for the price. West Marine had a sale last weekend, so he may have gotten it during the sale.


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## Cruisingdad

phallo153 said:


> Even more than a sticky, IMHO this topic warrants its own forum, with the product name as the topic and all linked reviews and replies in the same thread - easier to keep organized and to browse through. As a sticky, product reviews and responses/reviews from other users will soon become jumbled with other posts, and after a few pages the only way to pull all the replies together will be through a search anyway. Would seem to make more sense to make it a forum and keep products, reviews, and replies all in the same thread.
> 
> This is certainly one of the first places I come to do a search on a product before I buy or consider anything.


I am going to go ahead and answer this here: I would like to see the participation and activity on this before pursuing with the admin a new forum. Let's see if we can kick it off. If it gets to be too large we can always move it over. I thought it would be nice to scroll through the many pages here and see product reviews. You can serach the thread for topics you are specifically interested in.

It would also be very helful for everyone to list the product they are discussing in the subject line - so it will be easier to follow.

- CD


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## Gene T

*Pettit Trinidad SR bottom paint*

Pettit Trinidad SR bottom paint

2 coats, in the water for 3 years 8 months in San Francisco Bay and all growth just hosed off. Looked like the day it was painted. No barnacles.

I will use it again.


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## Gene T

*Topside Oil Changer*

Topside Oil Changer

I bought one 30 years ago and it still works great. Simple and mess free. Need to warm up the oil first and it does require some patience.

I have tried a pump that you run with your drill, didn't work for me.

If the engine has a drain plug then I drain into a plastic bag, messy if you aren't careful but it's quick.


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## sailingdog

*Orca Green Marine LED Tri-color/Anchor Light*

I've been using an Orca Green Marine LED Tri-Anchor light for two years now. The unit only needs two wires to work as both an anchor light or a tricolor, and uses very little power. When I've been anchored out, and look at the anchored boats from shore, I've noticed that the OGM anchor light appears brighter and whiter than the anchor lights on other boats.

The fixture I have also features an emergency strobe and required a third wire to use the strobe feature. They've come down quite a bit in price over the last two years and are USCG certified. I am planning on switching all of my deck level running lights over to LED-based fixtures.


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## BarryL

*Lowrance LMS337CDF Chartplotter / SONAR unit*

Hello,

In April I bought a Lowrance combo GPS chartplotter / SONAR unit (LMS337 C DF). This has a 5" high resolution (480 X 480) color screen, 50 and 200 hz SONAR transducer, external GPS antenna, NMEA 2000 (and 0183), etc.

The unit was easy to install and works great. I paid $550 at Westmarine (closeout price) with a 3 year service plan. For $100 I bought the detailed charts for the entire US.

The only difficulty is that the connectors for the SONAR are very large so I could not fit the wires in the steering pedestal or the pedestal guard. I have bought a bigger pedestal guard and will do a better installation job over the winter.

Barry


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## FrankLanger

*Starbright Black Streak Remover*

I had black streaks running down the hull/topsides from a nearby fire, similar to the black diesel engine exhaust stain I sometimes get on my transom. After trying boat soap, simple green and similar cleaners with very limited success after lots of elbow grease, someone suggested Starbright Black Streak Remover.

It worked like a charm--spray on, wait a minute and wipe off! It only cost me about $8.00 for a spray bottle that lasted all season.

I have since then seen Black Streak Remover made by other companies, including in the RV section of department stores, but I haven't wanted to risk getting less than the great results of the Starbright stuff.

I have no connection with any of the products mentioned.

Frank.


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## bestfriend

Gene T said:


> Pettit Trinidad SR bottom paint
> 
> 2 coats, in the water for 3 years 8 months in San Francisco Bay and all growth just hosed off. Looked like the day it was painted. No barnacles.
> 
> I will use it again.


I will second that. Its what I used, but only one coat. Next time, two coats. The growth on the bottom is very slow.


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## SEMIJim

I would unreservedly recommend the Moeller Oil Boy Fluid Extractor Kit. Used it this fall on my Atomic 4 and it worked like a champ. Extracted all the oil in just a few minutes (I didn't time it, but certainly less than five) with just the recommended 15-16 pumps, with plenty of vacuum left over.

The only disadvantage I've found with this product is it's tall and narrow, so it's kind of tippy during transport.

Jim


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## sailaway21

*Poli-glo*

One of the few "miracle" products that actually delivers what is promised. It truly does a wonderful job on older, dull gel-coat and takes a mere fraction of the time waxing requires. About an hour, once a year, and your older boat has an almost like new shine. I have it on good authority that using it on walkways is contraindicated. (g) Seriously though, it leaves a very smooth and slick surface that might be suitable for the bulkheads of the cabintop but not for anywhere you'll wish to keep your footing.


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## TSOJOURNER

> *TRIDENT MARINE 12 VDC MARINE GAS CONTROL & DETECTION SYSTEM*
> 
> (22a) #1300-7760
> 
> w/ Full detection/control panel, Gas Detector, & 10 foot quick connect cable. (1300-7760 will work on 24 VDC when used with a 24 VDC solenoid #1300-7708.2-24V).
> 
> (22b) #1300-7761 w/12 VDC Solenoid
> 
> w/ Full detection/control panel, Gas Detector, 10 foot quick connect cable and 3/8" solenoid.
> 
> Turns LP Gas ON or OFF from inside Galley; continuously monitors space(s) for presence of LP Gas in up to three locations with additional Gas Detectors (1300-7720); and automatically turns gas off and activates audio and visual alarms if gas is detected at 10% or more of lower explosion limit (LEL). Includes Marine UL Listed Detector (with red function light); UL Listed low pressure solenoid (22b); and UL Listed state of the art surface mount Control Panel (three alarm zone indicators, green function light, red alarm lights, 95 dB alarm, new mute/test button and 10 Foot Quick Connect Cable (#1300-7721-120). The detector is ON and monitoring even when Gas control panel is OFF, and its alarm horn will sound as long as LP Gas is present at 10% LEL or until the mute button is touched. If gas is detected when the control panel is turned ON, the control switch, green light, solenoid and gas are automatically turned OFF. The red alarm light illuminates to show where the alarm occurred. Accepts additional gas detectors (model 1300-7720). Draws 163 M.A. when OFF 953 M.A. in ON/Standby mode, & 255 M.A. in alarm mode.


Bought and installed this system on my boat, along with new propane tank, hoses, fittings and rebuilt Force 10 stove. Used two detectors, one directly under the dedicated propane locker in the bilge area under the aft cockpit. The other is in the cabin about 1 inch above the sole and about 18" from the stove.

*First Impressions:* Opened the box and was less than impressed with the items. The housings are all plastic and not particularly durable. I ended up making a new box for the cabin sensor unit to allow it to be flush-mounted. The black plastic thing was ugly and would have easily been damaged. I left the bilge unit in the plastic casing as it is not likely to come in contact with anything.

The control unit itself also comes in a plastic casing, dark grey, and while it looks a litle cheap, it can at least be invisibly mounted.

The solenoid and hoses looked run-of-the mill and seemed to be of acceptable quality.

The instructions were adequate - included pictures which helped somewhat. Did not hardwire the unit as the manufacturer suggests, rather, put it on a switch, wired into the 12 volt panel. This proved to be a very smart move on my part.

*Operating Results:* The unit performs as advertised. If anything it does its job a little too well. The cabin sensor goes off for any number of reasons, propane, butane, battery gas, some cleaning solvents, pretty well anything that isn't pure, clean, air.

The bilge unit has never gone off - for which we are eternally grateful, however I know it works because the little red light goes on, and there is a test button on the main panel, which also says things are fine.

*Issues:* It would be good if the alarm were louder. It is audible if the engine is not running, or the stereo is not on, but I questio whether it would wake us up if we had been imbibing.

*Recommendation:* I think it's a serviceable unit and does what it is supposed to do. Have not assessed it against comparable units, but it does have some features that I like - namely, it shuts off the solenoid automatically when it senses gas, and the panel indicates which sensor is picking up the trace. It can also handle one more sensor (for a total of 3), which I might install next year.

Found the instructions and


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## TSOJOURNER

Sailormann,
I installed one this year and it seems to work great. No false alarms, functions as described and no bilge hits to date. I feel a lot better with it installed.


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## TSOJOURNER

My batteries are under a settee in the cabin, pretty close to the sensor, and I think that is the primary reason it goes off . I think that if we had locaed it somewhere else it might have been better.


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## Cruisingdad

*RayMarine E80, incl radar, dual helm CP, etc*

We get a lot of questions regarding electonics, so I will write up my impressions of the Raymarine prodcuts as objectively as possible. Electronics rank as one of the more significant purchases you will make on the boat, so make sure it is worth it.

*E80(s)*​
The E series CP and radar is a considerable improvement over the old RL series in my opinion, as I have owned both. You can "daisy chain" them together in series which allows a quick relay of information between them. The E series differs from the C series in that you can control the functions between any of the units and they talk to each other. THis is very nice because it allows you to:

1) Plot your course, etc from your nav station. When I personally lay out a long run, I have PAPER maps and charts everywhere. I find it is a pain to do that in the cockpit. Thus, you can sit down below and review/put in all of your waypoints and make your route without sitting outside. Once I have saved the route, it will be relayed/read to the unit at the helm.

2) Review your course from your nav station/seperate location. The REALITY is that when you are offshore, you are not sitting at the helm all day waiting for the off chance that a boat will cross the horizon. You will keep watch in the cockpit, but will get up and make coffee, snacks, or go to the head which takes you down below. I always bring up the radar so I can keep glancing over at it and know when something is appriaching - often before I can see it.

3) Bring up different screens. Depending on the run (offshore/coastal), I will seperate the screens to my prefered settings. For example, at the helm I keep up the Chart Plotter on one half and the radar on the other. I will occasionally flip over to see what the Cross Track error is and time to target. Down below, I usually keep up the radar on one side and the log information on the other. I personally make 30min paper plots for dead reckoning (just in case). You can also make the screens totally custom to show just the information you want. It is easy to do with the E/C series Raymarine.


The E/C series all scroll quickly. THat was a major frustration with the old RL series that they slow to scroll - which was a MAJOR PITA when plotting courses and reviewing waypoints.

THe E/C series has a Find Ship function that quickly puts the cursor on your current position and holds that into the middle of the screen so that the screen scrolls versus the boat moving off the screen. I believe you have the ability to change that the boat moving instead and refreshing at the end of the page - but I detest that function so have never tried.

Installation is one of the big plusses for the E/C series. It is about as Plug-Play as it gets.

You can easily pull up tide information from any area at any time (even future).

You can pull up telephone numbers and addresses of about any marina with that information - and there is a lot. This is of course assuming the info has not changed.

Navionics charts are very detailed and have many nice functions, including a 3-d overview and satellite pictures, but they are expensive.

I find it easy to manuever through the screens and appreciate the customability of the units.


MARPA. This stands for Mini Automatic Radar Plotting Aid. It basically tracks your course/heading against up to 10 other contacts. If there is going to be a collision, it warns you. I have not spent enough time with this to give it a thumbs up or down... but still a very nice tool to have in crowded harbors or shipping lanes.

_*The Radar overlay on the screen is absolutely an awesome function*_. In my opinion, it helps account for the reality of where things are versus where the CP says they are. Though the units are better now than 5-10 years ago, there is still an offset. It also allows you to focus more on the CP versus having to keep look between the radar and CP. THis is very helpful when travelling down the ICW at night which is a hair raising experience in shallow, narrow lanes. You will see pilings that are not supposed to be there and one missing where the CP says they are.


You can Overlay weather up to X miles offshore. I have been told 200 by some, and 20 by others??? This requires a Sirius weather receiver (which will also recieve your music) and a subscription that ranges from about 20/month for the very basic and 50 for everything which includes wave height, period, doppler radar, weather predictions, etc. I DO NOT HAVE THIS, I am only telling you what I have been told. So, this is hear-say. The garmin unit also uses this, though it requires a XM subscription (at basically the same cost). However, be aware that XM is being purchased by Sirius if the SEC approves.

Very nice numerical information is relayed from the peripheral units (wind/depth, etc). You can custom this to your personal preferences. This is a really nice function that we use a LOT when plotting offshore.

Easy communication and connection b/t Raymarine wind/depth/speed.

You have the ability to put cameras (up to 4 I think) on the unit and video monitor different areas. We have considered putting one in the kids cabin, but have not used this function yet.

Another REALLY neat function we have not taken advantage of (and I THINK is unique to Raymarine) is the personal locators. It is a little orance wristband you put on yourself, kids, dink, etc... and if it ever gets more than a certain distance from the boat (30 feet I think) it sets off an alarm. I think it sets off a MOB. I personally know this would make me sleep more at rest on long runs at night. Losing one of my kids or my wife at night is a nightmare I always have.

The picture quality is very nice at night and day. You can easily reduce the brightness for running at night. I have never had a problem seeing the screen even in the brightest sun.

Negatives:

The cost. If you can get by with one unit (preferably at the helm, of course) you will save a LOT of money, since you can use the C series which is considerably cheaper and appears to have all the functionability of a single E series. I would estimate the cost difference at 3500-4000 once you inclide cables, etc (not including install difference). I will say that I priced out the difference between the E series and the comparable of Garmin (which is the only other unit I personally would consider outside of RayMarine) and the cost was about the same to get the same functionability.

You cannot turn on one unit (a slave) without the master being set on. In other words, when you set these up, you tell the system which of the units is the Master. It always has to be on. Since my Master is at the Nav (which I may change), I cannot turn on the unit at the helm and leave the unit down below off to save power. I feel that is a negative.

Once you know how to set up the customability of the unit, you will do it in a snap. However, figuring it our the first time is a pain.

Service. I have had some experience with the service on my RL series and was not overly impressed. They fixed it without charging me a dime, but they could have been a little more friendly. I have heard others say that too. I have also had others swear by them as being VERY nice... so take my comments as my personal experience only. I have not had to deal with them for many years, so it may have improved (or gotten worse!!).

The Daisy Chain/(HSB): Well, It is a positive and a negative. The positive is that it makes it very easy to install. The negative is that if you lose a HSB anywhere, you will basically lose everything. I had a cable come lose on my depth, and my CP's and radar both went into error mode. Luckily, it did not matter at the time and I tracked down the source. But in a storm offshore or making a narrow entrance at night I would have a heart attack. Also, they really should put in some type of a clip to hold the USB connections inplace. Since they are held there by "pressure" alone, they are doomed to work out over time (in my opinion). Basically, can you spell maintenance?? Like I need something else to keep an eye on with my boat.

*Radar​*
I have used the Radome 2kw on tso different boats now that I have owned. It seems bulletproof. I have never had any issues.

*Wind/Depth/Speed​*
Absolutely no issues that would not an issue on any unit (like the paddle wheel gumming up). I won't buy anything but.

*ST 6001+ Autopilot​*
Bulletproof. Never had any problems. I will go further to say that one time we were offshore in 10-15 breakers off our stbd, stern quarter. We had three boats with us. For 27 hours, our autopilot was the only one that held where the others gave out. I will not buy anything but.

*Conclusion:​*
In my opinion, I feel they make the best units for our use. I think Garmin is a very, very, very close second and I would strongly consider Garmin (except that new touch screen... not so sure about how that will work in cold weather with gloves on or stand up to the weather). It has its little quirks and since I have owned both Garmin and Raytheon (and Raymarine) products, I feel compelled to say that you will be up and running quicker on the Garmins than you will the Raytheons. However, once you learn how to manuever the Raymarine products, you will not have any difficulties.

These are just my opinions, so take them as such. I have personally owned the RL 70 series (BW and color), Garmin stand-alone color CP (cannot remember the model now), and used Furuno (sp??) products offshore but have not owned them - so will limit my responses there. I will be happy to answer any question I can on what I can.

- CD


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## Cruisingdad

*Raytheon RL series CP's*

As I have just finished a writeup on the E series (the newer version) I thought I would also do a writeup on the older RL series. I do not think these are in production anymore. If I recall correctly, they were about the last marine product put out by Raytheon (which split off to become Raymarine). However, since many of the older boats still have these units, some review might be helpful to boat buyers when the vessel they are purchasing has these units. Please excuse any unintentional mistakes in this writeup since I have not actually used these for several years now.

*RL 70 (CRC)*​
Would it be fair to call it fairly trend setting for its time? I think so. In my opinion, they held the market then and the Garmin products were not well developed or sought after... if they were even around. The leading competitor in my opinion was probably Furuno, whose specialization in radar, really carried them forward.

The RL series came in monochrome black and white, or color (if designated in C). The 70 stood for 7 inch display. They were taunted as truly daylight viewable - especially the color series. I put a color series at the Nav and had a B&W at the helm. This probably was a mistake because the color unit gave much better resolution. I always found the B&W unit difficult to see in direct daylight, though not as bad if it was not really bright. The color unit was by far superior.

Many of the functions that were present on that unit were carried over to the new E series. You can read above what those are. Some exceptions that I am aware of are the overlay for radar, camera, and weather ability. The course plotting and waypoint settings all work(ed) similar to the new E series. Those that are upgrading will easily navigate through the E/C series units.

I have to say that there are a few differences that make the E/C series units well superior to the older units. They are:

1) Daylight viewable. Much better resolution and brightness.

2) Scrolling. This is a big one. I always found the R series slow to scroll across the screen. The refresh took a while too.

3) The radar overlay. To the best of my knowledge, the old units did not do that. If I am wrong, I apologize.

4) MARPA. This stands for Mini Automatic Radar Plotting Aid. This is a function that was once only utilized by commercial ships to overlay up to X number of contacts (the E series is limited to 10, as I recall) and plot their course against your heading. They warn you if there is the potential for a collision. To the best of my knowledge, the old units would not do this. This is a nice function to have when crossing shipping lanes or on busy harbors.

5) AIS. Not sure they would take that input. I am not sure it was around then (which it may have been) but I had not heard of it.

I cannot think of a lot of other differences. I will say that I did have some problems early on with my units suddenly locking up. They ended up replacing the unit to get the problem resolved. Other than that, it worked fine and was an awesome tool to have on board.


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## CaptKermie

Can we request Reviews here too?
I did a search on a furler unit Schaefer Snapfurl CF-700 and did not get many hits but I am sure there are a few out there that have this unit or something similar and could provide some feedback. It is for a smaller boat 24'-28' but I have noticed there are numerous owners in that range. I did a google search on it and found lots of supplier/sales info but not a lot in the way of customer reviews. Any experience with this unit out there?


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## Freesail99

*Wonder Clean Washing Machine*

It was suggested that I post my review of the the Wonder clean, washing machine here.

About 1.5 years ago I bought the wonder clean for my boat. I have since sold the farm and I am living in an apartment. No washing machine. The wonder clean does a great job of cleaning cloths. Doesn't use a lot of water to wash, but I've found that it does take more water to rinse then they claim. Still, I have put very dirty jeans and a couple of golf shirts in it and they come out clean. Also ringing out the cloths when your done washing them, is a bit of a pain. The other downside on a boat is where to store it. I have a large cockpit locker, so it isn't a problem for me, but I could see how it could be a problem for others. All in all, one of the best $42.00 I've spent.

EDITED BY CD: I edited this simply to put the title in the subject line. That is all I changed.


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## pegasus1457

*LED work light*

I use110V work lights around the house but every second time I go to use one I manage to give it a little bump and the filament in the bulb goes. A real PITA. The last thing I need on the boat.

I discovered an all-LED work light from bulbtronics.com. It is a bit expensive ($35), but it is perfect for working in the engine compartment. It runs off 12VDC, 110AC or its own internal NiCads. There is plenty of light and I can never burn myself by touching it  And there are no filaments !

Order code: LDTRUHHWRKLT Part # 0050154

[I have no affiliation with bulbtronics]


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## TSOJOURNER

*Roll Off*

The best topsides cleaner for getting stains and various droppings off the deck.


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## Giulietta

Magic cloth....

I buy 4 or 5 everytime I go to the US...best stuff after the wheel


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## pegasus1457

Giulietta said:


> Magic cloth....
> 
> I buy 4 or 5 everytime I go to the US...best stuff after the wheel


_Related suggestion:_ there are now bath towels made from a similar material, available in REI and other camping stores. They are super-absorbent and roll up into a compact form. I carry one on my charter voyages, leaves room for a bottle in my bag. 

Here is a link to the towel: _http://www.rei.com/product/715990?vcat=REI_SEARCH

_


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## camaraderie

*MAGIC CLOTH that Giu is referring to is really Seafit Miracle Cloth* I think...
... a metal polishing cloth sold by West marine here:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...e&storeNum=null&subdeptNum=null&classNum=null
It is awesome!!


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## Giulietta

Yes yes...not magic as I said, MIRACLE...yes

sorry...but its the one CAm is pointing in his link.

Besides, I learnt of it here at Sailnet, I think him or SD recommended..not sure


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## sailingdog

*Boeshield T9, SailKote and LanoCote*

Three must haves for the Sailor's toolkit are Boeshield T9, McLube SailKote and LanoCote.

Boeshield T9 is a great water displacing light lubricant that also protects metals from corrosion. I spray my tool boxes and their contents with T9 regularly to help protect the tools from corroding.

SailKote is the best dry film lubricant I've found and is good for coating sail tracks, genoa tracks, sail slugs, roller furling foils and many other items on a sailboat that need to slide or move freely, but you don't want to collect dirt. Unlike Boeshield T9, McLube SailKote won't attract dirt at all, and dries to a thin, almost invisible film. I use SailKote once a season or so on the mast mainsail track, genoa tracks, mainsheet traveler, and roller furling foil.

LanoCote is a paste that is made from anhydrous lanolin and works well as a galvanic isolation compound between aluminum and stainless steel. It also works quite well as an anti-galling/anti-siezing compound for use on stainless steel to stainless steel contact. The one downside to the stuff is it looks like baby cack...  When commissioning my boat in the spring, I use LanoCote on all the screw-pin shackles on the boat, as well as most of the bimini/dodger fittings so I can be sure to take them apart at the end of the season.

BTW, The Seafit Miracle cloth is one product that most Sailnetters and Practical Sailor agree on.


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## Mary51

*LED worklight, can't find it . . .*

Pegasus:

I'd like to find this worklight, but can't seem to work my way through the Bulbtronics website to find it. Can you offer any other clues?

I think I've tried the order code in all product catories.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Mary


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## pegasus1457

Mary51 said:


> Pegasus:
> 
> I'd like to find this worklight, but can't seem to work my way through the Bulbtronics website to find it. Can you offer any other clues?
> 
> I think I've tried the order code in all product catories.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
> 
> Mary


Mary,

Their web site needs a professional rework! [I only found the work light by talking to a technical rep on the phone, discussing another subject.]

At the top of the main page is a search window. Select "bulbs/lamps" in the left panel of the search window, then enter the part number (0050154) in the right panel.

That should get you there.


----------



## Mary51

*LED worklight, got it!*

Thanks, Pegasus. Santa will be taking care of this for me.

How's Port Jeff? And the LIRR? Used to ride into and out of the city from Greenlawn, or Huntington Station when the train didn't stop in Greenlawn.

Mary


----------



## pegasus1457

Mary51 said:


> Thanks, Pegasus. Santa will be taking care of this for me.
> 
> How's Port Jeff? And the LIRR? Used to ride into and out of the city from Greenlawn, or Huntington Station when the train didn't stop in Greenlawn.
> 
> Mary


I spent 2 weeks commuting to/from Huntington this summer working on the "new" boat I had just purchased, trying to get her into shape for a launch -- in the middle of the summer heat wave... But that is no longer a problem


----------



## Gryzio

*This looks to be a great thread in time, thanks CD*

I may be off topic a little.

First; this about the Radar was excellent for myself. As I been eyeballing a C-Series. 

I did want to comment on this quote;



Cruisingdad said:


> The negative is that if you lose a HSB anywhere, you will basically lose everything. I had a cable come lose on my depth, and my CP's and radar both went into error mode. Luckily, it did not matter at the time and I tracked down the source. But in a storm offshore or making a narrow entrance at night I would have a heart attack. Also, they really should put in some type of a clip to hold the USB connections in place. Since they are held there by "pressure" alone, they are doomed to work out over time (in my opinion). Basically, can you spell maintenance?? Like I need something else to keep an eye on with my boat. - CD


Sometimes I use a little hot-melt (Glue gun stuff we find in Hobby Stores) to stick troublesome cables so they stay in place. It usually easy to un-stick with an untrimmed fingernail or whatever. I not say it will work for everyone, but, it has seemed to do well for myself.


----------



## Cruisingdad

*Fujinon FMTRC-SX Binoculars*

By far, the best binocs I have ever used. They run around $700ish I think, which is not bad considering the quality. Outstanding eye relief and clarity. I compared them to the high-end steiners, and still feel they are a better product. Worth the money, and great for sky watching. My only small complaint is that the eye relief is so great, it is hard to make out the compass. But the field of vision more than makes up for it. For a great and relatively cheap set that has the compass (~$300), I suggest the lower end Fuji's or Steiners.

- CD

For those considering cruising, I will say that we used our bisnocs ALL THE TIME, especially at night. We would sit on the deck and watch the moon, stars, etc. These are a great pair for that... but don't lose them!!! We keep a cheaper pair at the cockpit (the lower end fujis) for most of our cockpit stuff while under way. Apparently the cheaper ones float... but I have not been able to bring myself to try it!!


----------



## johnshasteen

I see folks refering to prices at West Marine - I shop there too as I am a BoatUS member, but the best prices I have seen are right here in the SailNet store. I just bought a Garmin Map 76CSX for about $50 less than the best price I saw anywhere, including West Marine.
Always check here first!!!


----------



## dman

*fein orbital*

I just went up to the 8 inch Fein orbital from the six inch...size does matter.Works amazing and worth every penny.BTW there are different pads,if you are doing hull work go for the extra soft one/comes with a flat hard one.


----------



## soul searcher

Jack lines are very important for offshore work, That is why I have to tell you all that the flat west marine jack lines are probably not your best choice.
They are flat and your tether will slide nicely over them but they are too smooth and when wet are dangerous to step on. even with the best deck shoes they are kin to slipping on ice or oil. 
so I have to give them two thumbs down.
I nearly busted my @## a couple of times because of them. safety gear shouldn't be dangerous


----------



## camaraderie

I will add that I use the Wichard FLAT jacklines and have been very happy with them. They are NOT at all slippery when wet and are made of NYLON rather than Polyester like the West Marine ones. They come with a nice heavy duty snap shackle at one end and plain to tie on a cleat at the other end.


----------



## Windborn

*Bosch 1250 DEVS sander/polisher*

Last haulout my trusty sander died an ugly death. All I could find in a hurry was a Bosch variable speed, dual action sander / polisher. I originally balked at the cost, but as I was on deadline to get out of the yard I bought it. This is by far the best sander I've ever used. Highly recommended.


----------



## ArgleBargle

*Garmin GPSmap 76CSx review*

i posted this in the gear section as a response, but thought i would repost it here for reference:

i thought i'd give a user review of the Garmin GPSmap 76CSx since i've got so much useful info out of Sailnet but havent had much of a chance to return the favours.

I bought it at westmarine in early january 2008 as part of a promotion/sale (for some reason it is currently well over $100 more than what i paid). I have used it in the BVIs chartering in february and as a backup to my cockpit-mounted Garmin GPSmap 545 unit in coastal waters of British Columbia, where i live & sail. i previosuly used a small garmin GPS without charts/maps/fancy display as my backup.

i used it as my main navigation tool in the BVIs (since the footloose boat's chartplotter was a chartplotter in name only and the paper charts they provided looked like they came from the a paper placemat from macdonalds) and it really came through with flying colours. in BC i have been comparing it with the 545, and to be honest i like the useability of the smaller 76CSx better.

the 76CSx is different from the 76CS by the addition of altimiter/barometer and electronic compas. The unit is a bit big for a handheld 2.7" x 6.2" x 1.2" (50-70% larger than my smart phone)

It has 6 user configurable pages - 
1. satellite - detection/signal strength/position
2. trip computer - where most of your user selectable info is displayed
3. Map page
4. compas page with additional user selectable/configurable numerical display boxes.
5. Altimiter/barometer page with graphical chart of altitude vs distance.
6. main menu - for selecting other functions

PROS:
- battery life is sufficient and uses two AAs (cheap)
- quite easy to use, reasonably intuitive
- has flexible, user configurable pages - very handy - can easily configure both type and format of displayed info.
- almost as many extra features as my 545, eg anchor drag, VMG/time & dist to destination etc, depth alarm, tides/currents, 
- extremely fast to obtain a lock/fix when turned on - its quite impressive really - much faster than the 545.
- don't know much about GPS antennas and accuracy, but seems as accurate as the 545 (granted, i do not uses an extrenal antenna)
- is apparently not only waterproof (and it got soaked one day in the BVIs w/o problem) but also bouyant, though i have not had cause to test this second feature. i can also tell you that it is impervious to beer and red-wine.
- has altimiter (hopefully not a necessary feature for marine use) and a barometer (which is useful).
- electronic compas.
- waypoints are easier to use than my 545

CONS:
- attachment for lanyard isnt great
- for the size of the unit, the screen could be a bit larger
- resolution (180 x 240) isnt nearly as good as my smartphone/pda, which is a smaller unit.
- the screen brightness is user adjustable, of course, and is reasonably bright, but my cell phone/pda screen is much brighter - however, this is mitigated by the fact that in direct sunlight you can view it front lit by the sun.
- chart prices - it came with one unlock code which i used for the carribean. since i'm in canada none of the garmin products come preloaded with any of our charts - i did spend about $120 on west coast canada and charts. but i find that they do cover quite a wide area - all of the west coast of canada from puget sound to alaska and all of the carribean from including the southern half of florida to including the north coast of south america, both the large and small scale charts for all of these areas are included and while i wasnt thrilled about the price, i am 100% certain that buying all of the paper charts for these areas would be an order of magnitude more expensive.

overall i'm very happy with the purchase, though i hope the follow up model will have a larger, higher resolution display and better lanyard attachment.

see many reviews at:

GPS Tracklog: Garmin GPSMAP 76CSx review


----------



## camaraderie

Great review...thanks AB!


----------



## xcbxer

*Home Depot 110v flourescent trouble lite - also halogen*



> I use110V work lights around the house but every second time I go to use one I manage to give it a little bump and the filament in the bulb goes. A real PITA. The last thing I need on the boat.


From my aircraft mechanic friend, I use a flourescent tube style work lite. It has soft rubber ends and an unbreakable soft tube lens and hook for hanging. Never gets hot so you can lay it down anywhere or place it in tight quarters by your cheekbone. You can throw it or drop it. Lite is omni direction but a little less lumens than a 100W trouble lite. Usually I use both types in conjunction.

Doing maintenance to really lite up a whole cabin or engine room nothing beats those 200 W clamp-on worklite halogens.


----------



## xcbxer

*Get Rid of Boat Odors by Peggie Hall*

Just received "Get Rid of Boat Odors" by Peggie Hall. Great book on marine sanitation, only negative is that the section on boat odors not related to your head is only 2 pages long, plus another 2 pages on the fresh water system. I was hoping for more on general odors. For $30 I give it three and one half stars out of five.


----------



## Cruisingdad

Nice reviews XCB.

- CD


----------



## eherlihy

Cruisingdad said:


> Garmin 478 GPS map.
> 
> What a really cool unit. It has preloaded all of the coastal maps for the US. I believe it even has Hawaii and Alaska. You can overlay weather on it, output it to your pc, etc.
> 
> It is like a mini, portable full function GPS. I have always said all that you need in a backup is lat and lon so you can overlay, but should you lose your main system, this think would sure be nice to have. Neat technology that would have been unheard of ten years ago.
> 
> Cost: It lists about 999 at West. I have seen it advertised in the 7XX. We got it at west last weekend for about $650... and I am sure they still made a profit!!
> 
> - CD


CD - I've had one of these for two years now, and agree that they are a great portable unit (mine would be even better if I paid what you did ). You completely left out all the complete STREET NAVIGATION for the entire US that's built into the unit too!

I frequently use mine when I'm on business trips to get me from one client to the next. I have also used it on a trip from Boston to Key West and back on my motorcycle. Some co-workers poke fun at it because it's not as small as a Nuvi or TomTom, but let's see them use one of those on a boat.

You can interface it with NEMA 0183 devices (DSC Radio, AutoPilot, etc.) and it has a built in Sattelite radio control - the antenna (receiver) costs $300, so I'm not going to call this a tuner - that can provide XM weather service if you subscribe, you can plug in a depth sounder/fish finder....  There is a lot in this unit.

I bought it initially because I sail OPBs, and could never count on knowing how to use the chartplotter on the boat that I got.

Ed


----------



## sailaway21

*Makita 18volt cordless drill*

Makita's latest cordless drill is 18 volts, has a 1/2" chuck, and uses lithium-ion batteries. You can get one with two batteries at Home Depot for about $200. The charger will recharge a battery in about 15 minutes! No more waiting around, or having to have over two batteries, anymore. I did have one battery go bad on me, actually my wife-but she let's me use it, and they just swapped it out at HD. No further troubles and it's been a year of regular use.

Three things make this the best drill my wife has ever owned. OK, it _was_ going to be my drill but when I saw how light weight it was I decided she needed a surprise gift for just because. It really is the lightest drill I've ever used and it's also the highest voltage so it sure does crank. What really sold me, at the store, was that it has a 1/2" chuck. I was going to take it to work as about half the things I need a drill for call for a 1/2" chuck. Most drills are 3/8" chuck and it's a pain in the neck either in an electric or battery drill.

The 15 minute charging time is for real as well and the lithium-ion batteries do not lose their charge sitting in the case nearly as quickly as the other's I've owned.

The only thing I can say negative about the drill is that, instead of the traditional Makita green, the company decided to make it silver and grey. It's an awful color scheme and looks like it was influenced by some sneaker designer. I'd own two by now except my wife has been generous in letting me borrow it and besides, I get out of a lot of pressing non-boat projects by telling her I just need to charge up those old batteries and I'll be right on it, dear!


----------



## Valiente

I have an 18 V Mastercraft (Canadian Tire) cordless I am quite pleased with, but it's really overkill for most boat jobs, so it stays at home with its companion cordles 5 1/2" circular saw (der Uberpruner). Aboard I use a wimpy 6V Black and Decker "electric screwdriver", which is, however, very good with the softer brass screws, and a 14 V Black and Decker 3/8" cordless drill that somebody in the club threw out! I cleaned it up, charged the TWO batteries and it works great!

But for the tough stuff, I have a 1/2" Makita hammer drill that runs off a cord and is just brutal, which is sometimes necessary on steel boats. I have a 4" Makita angle grinder aboard which is compact enough to get in tight spots, and a 7 1/2" Makita circular saw I love for cutting planking.

I'm pretty pleased with Makita, I'd have to say, although I wouldn't turn down some of the DeWalt and Milwaukee power tools I've seen. Strangely, considering it's a "house brand", my six amp Mastercraft reciprocating saw went through 30 or so blades cutting new portlight holes on my buddy's steel ketch, and is currently chewing through a tenacious bead of 5200 and some sheared bolts between a steel flange and my aluminum pilothouse roof. So I won't diss what is likely a Chinese knock-off, but maybe isn't because it's about six years old. It helped to tear down a shack a few years ago, and it's still going strong.


----------



## artbyjody

*Powertool Reviews:*

I run the gambant on brands.

1. Ryobi Brand: I have several sets that include the flashlight, drill, recip saw, sander, and circular saw. One set I keep onboard at all times with three battery packs. They are dependable, have been submerged or left out in rain and still run, and are very economical. They might not have the bite of the more expensive tools but they have been instrumental in underway repairs, cutting out cored sections to install gear, etc. Considering the price point and the fact they have tolerated being stored in less than ideal conditions...they get my vote...

I also use a wide range of their other standard workshop tools as well, and have no complaints less the planer which no one ever seems to stock the drive belts which wear in a hurry...

2. Porter Cable - I use their portable air compressor religiously for any construction or upholstery work. Granted I have probably 6 different staple / nail guns - there is nothing more relaxing knowing that you can bang out quick work reliably. I also have a series of air powered tools such as a sprayer, hammer, etc... but for where you are stapling or needing rapid nailing ..the best core $200 bucks ever spent... because glue doesn't always cut it..

TIP: The secret to upholstery if you do not sew or pay someone to do it.

a. Use fine strips of wood that wraps up the vinyl or cloth and staple through it. The wood acts as a stress reliever and even if some of the material on the top layer (staple cuts through fabric for instance) gets strained the wood will bind to the inner material preventing rippage of the material. And always use a breather material such as cotton backing material as that will slow down the escape of air trapped in such designs. That annoying "fart balloon" effect....

3. Bosch: Back onto staple guns - what Porter doesn't cover they do.

Those are the three brands I generally use in a range of projects onboard or off....

My 2 cents


----------



## tdblanchard

bravo!
need more posts like this


----------



## RickQuann

pegasus1457 said:


> I use110V work lights around the house but every second time I go to use one I manage to give it a little bump and the filament in the bulb goes. A real PITA. The last thing I need on the boat.


I learned the benefits of using a headlamp from backpacking in mountains. It's inexpensive, lightweight, compact, focuses the light directly on the object of your attention, frees up both hands and is very miserly on batteries. Most operate on 2-3 AAA and usually one change of batteries will last a season.


----------



## landlockvasailor

*HydroCore Marine Plywood*

I have been using HydroCore Marine Plywood which passes the BS1088 standard. I found this company 250 miles from my home. That location is in Windsor, NC. Two other locations are in Michigan and Florida.

After applying varnish to the HydroCore, it has the appearance of teak, without the cost. Last price of 4x8 purchased was $85.00.

The woods that they stock are impressive and customer services is first rate.

Suppliers to the Marine Industry

Tom


----------



## T37Chef

*4" SS Nicro Day-Night Solar Vent*

$$ for $$ they cant be beat. One set intake & one exhaust. I have them installed since this spring and are very pleased in how much better the cabin doesn't smell and seems cooler than ever before.









Day & Night Plus Solar Vent


----------



## T37Chef

*Harken MKIV Furling & Reefing Unit 2*

Purchased the unit in the summer of 2007, so far it has worked flawlessly, with the exception of the cheap like line that come with the unit there are no complaints. I got a very good deal on the unit and find it to be a excellent value!

http://tradeonly.harken.com/pdf/MKIV-FS-furling_product-brochure-LR.pdf


----------



## tonybinTX

*Seoladair Boomkicker*

Boomkicker

Purchased: New 1500k model
Used on: 1984 Hunter 31 - fresh water
Other useful information: 4:1 boom vang, crusing main with big arse roach, 4:1 mid boom main sheet.
Install time: 1.5 hours (could have done it in less time, but this was the first hole I put in the boat) They offer install kits to use the boom track, but I opted to tap the screw holes for a more permanent mount.

Highlights: Works as advertised. Came with two sets of fiberglass rods. One thicker than the other to provide more resistance. I installed them first, but it was too hard to hank the boom level. Changed out to the smaller diameter rods (10 minute process) and they worked like a charm. I got rid of my fixed wire topping lift and now my mainsail roach no longer gets caught.

Their service department was awesome. Responded to email questions on the same day and were patient with newbie questions.


----------



## T37Chef

*Cetol Marine Natural Teak & Marine Gloss*

Easy to apply, easy to maintain!

I have used the light and original for years, but the much improveded color of the *natural is the best yet*, and with 3-4 coats of the gloss its getting close to a varnish  Sikkens Cetol Marine Natural Teak










This spring we stripped all the exterior teak and applied the natural, IMO it looks awesome!


----------



## padean

*TackTick Sail Instruments*

I purchased these this winter to replace my boats original equipment and installed while in storage. The instruments I selected are:


T101 Wind system with analogue display
T103 Speed/Depth "Triducer" with Hull transmitter
T909 Compass
Overall the instruments were very easy to install. Not having to run wires was a real treat, but even better is the ability to relocate the different displays to my liking (I often leave 1 below, and interchange the other two at the pedestal or bulkhead depending on whether "racing" or cruising, and who is responsible for what on the boat).

Concerns:

Hull "triducer" is a little bigger (2in diameter), and it is always a little frightening to drill a bigger hole in the hull for me.
Wires for the Compass and Triducer were a little short. I had to work hard to find a location for the Wireless Transmitter that met all the criteria the instruction called for and still reached both pieces. It would be nice if TackTick would provide a little longer wire for each.
Instructions for installation of the Hull Transmitter were poor. I still don't know if there is a battery, but I assume so.
Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to purchase these again. The price is a little steep, but if you need to replace more than one major instrument, it is reasonable.

Be sure to remove the displays and store them below when not onboard, since they are easy to "lift" out of their mount.


----------



## sailingdog

The TackTick hull transmitter and NMEA 0183 interface seem to have internal batteries of an unknown size. I know this since I can shut down my electronics breaker and the instruments will continue to function, after a short series of warning beeps.

I chose to not use the quick release mounts, preferring to permanently mount them to a port, which acts as an instrument panel on my boat. The port still functions as a port and can be opened to pass things from the galley to the cockpit in bad weather without opening the companionway, and used for ventilation at anchor.












padean said:


> I purchased these this winter to replace my boats original equipment and installed while in storage. The instruments I selected are:
> 
> T101 Wind system with analogue display
> T103 Speed/Depth "Triducer" with Hull transmitter
> T909 Compass
> Overall the instruments were very easy to install. Not having to run wires was a real treat, but even better is the ability to relocate the different displays to my liking (I often leave 1 below, and interchange the other two at the pedestal or bulkhead depending on whether "racing" or cruising, and who is responsible for what on the boat).
> 
> Concerns:
> Hull "triducer" is a little bigger (2in diameter), and it is always a little frightening to drill a bigger hole in the hull for me.
> Wires for the Compass and Triducer were a little short. I had to work hard to find a location for the Wireless Transmitter that met all the criteria the instruction called for and still reached both pieces. It would be nice if TackTick would provide a little longer wire for each.
> Instructions for installation of the Hull Transmitter were poor. I still don't know if there is a battery, but I assume so.
> Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to purchase these again. The price is a little steep, but if you need to replace more than one major instrument, it is reasonable.
> 
> Be sure to remove the displays and store them below when not onboard, since they are easy to "lift" out of their mount.


----------



## T37Chef

*Galleyware Dinnerware*

A bit expensive, *but* after using them heeling at 30+ they are a real value . I appreciate the thoughtful design allowing you to easily remove the non skid ring for cleaning.

Although we have only had them a short time, they show no signs of scratching from cutting on them with steak knives or similar.

One complaint, the coffee cups do not have the non-skid ring, I would have preferred to have it or been able to choose that as an option.

We ordered direct from Galleyware (The Galleyware Company) and they arrived within two days...WOW! I wouldn't go with anything else since using these, there is NO substitute IMO.

We purchased a set of 6 with the additional platter seen in the picture:


----------



## T37Chef

*Barnacle Buster by Trac Ecological*

Used the Buster Concentrate to flush my raw water cooling system, I saw a immediate reduction in engine temperature. I let it sit per instructions, 12 hours I think, as easy as winterizing your engine with antifreeze.

TRAC Ecological Marine Products


----------



## jimmalkin

Water Pump Impellers:
2 years ago I put a new waterpump on our 72 HP Yanmar Diesel. I had been reading about the new composite impellers by Globe. The following is the text from the Defender Industries website on this product -
_The only impeller in the world guaranteed to run dry for 15 minutes. 
Globe/barco impellers are made of elastomer compounds, developed for optimum performance and self lubricating for run dry protection. 
These compounds (niprene) allow these impellers to pump diesel, fuel, engine oil and gasoline without swelling. 
Also, these impellers have greater resistance to sand and dirt abrasion. 
_This weekend in Nantucket Sound, the water temp alarm went off while running at our usual 2,800 rpm and throwing good water out the exhaust. Short version following is the two year old "you beauty" Globe impeller was worn at the back end and replacing the impeller solved the over heating. There are filters at the raw water intake prior to the seacock and two filters prior to the water pump. There was nothing other than minor weed in the primary filter/strainer. I had been expecting better from the new composite filters.


----------



## artbyjody

*ATN Topclimber*

I had had a halyard jammed up the mast due to a "racer's" excitement, and then that asym mishap with stuck halyard mid way. West marine recalled their bosun chairs but discovered they actually sold the ATN Topclimber - and since it was race day - purchased it.

While I only went halfway up, I did find with a little bit of practice it worked fairly efficiently. It does though put the load of climbing up on the climber (then again I am scared of heights and was kinda shocked how fast I went up before I looked down), and I would still recommend having someone else manning a halyard attached to the unit for safety. But, it is nice to know it is a unit that works as advertised and in a pinch if I had to - I have the ability to get myself up the mast. It is also fairly comfortable.

For those that do rock climbing - in principle it works very much like some of the systems you may use. At any rate I would recommend the product albeit its a pricey solution.


----------



## dongreerps

*Garmin Product Support*

Our Garmin GPS unit is superb. Last week we attempted to update the map data base. Did not work. Yesterday called suport at 12:04. The recording suggested a wait time of 30 to 35 minutes. A real person finally answered at 1:40.

The long wait was aggrevating. The misinformation about the wait time was aggrevating.

With wait times like this I wonder if Garmin is having more technical problems than they should.

The solution offered was they would send us a DVD instead of trying to update over the internet.


----------



## sailingdog

Just make sure the shackle is in the correct orientation as described in the addendum to the manual... since the shackle pin can back out if it is in the wrong way...and that would be bad.


artbyjody said:


> I had had a halyard jammed up the mast due to a "racer's" excitement, and then that asym mishap with stuck halyard mid way. West marine recalled their bosun chairs but discovered they actually sold the ATN Topclimber - and since it was race day - purchased it.
> 
> While I only went halfway up, I did find with a little bit of practice it worked fairly efficiently. It does though put the load of climbing up on the climber (then again I am scared of heights and was kinda shocked how fast I went up before I looked down), and I would still recommend having someone else manning a halyard attached to the unit for safety. But, it is nice to know it is a unit that works as advertised and in a pinch if I had to - I have the ability to get myself up the mast. It is also fairly comfortable.
> 
> For those that do rock climbing - in principle it works very much like some of the systems you may use. At any rate I would recommend the product albeit its a pricey solution.


----------



## TSOJOURNER

Honda 1000 generator. Works great. Charges the batteries, runs the computer and the water maker


----------



## retclt

*Stick Up LED Lights*

Great little product for dark tight places like lockers and drawers. I put one in every locker, drawer and berth. I have one stuck up inside the companionway entry pointing forward. It's all the light I need unless reading or fixing something. Plenty to see by but doesn't mess with my night vision when I scamper back up to the cockpit. I have extras laying around the boat I can easily grab for a flashlight. Get the ones with the single LED not the triple. The single LED ones actually give better light and the batteries last longer.


----------



## bobelon

I prefer Tef-Gel to LanoCote


----------



## Joevacs

*Latex Paint !*

I painted my topside with Valspar Premium Acrilic paint from Lowes last year, and it is holding up wonderfully. I had read a bunch online about latex and was a little sceptical, but I had previously painted with very expensive boat paint and after 9 months it was looking bad, and it mildewed. This paint was a lot less expensive, easy cleanup and it looks great. And so far, so good with respect to durability
The arguement in favor of it, that pushed me over the edge was, A lot more research goes into house paint than boat paint, because the market for it is 10 times bigger. And people that paint their house, don't want to do it again for 10 or 20 years, and want to paint with no prep. So it stands to reason that the paint has got to be good.


----------



## marineelectronicsreviews

*Marine Electronics Reviews*

I have a website with free unbiased reviews on chartplotters, VHF radios, image stabilized binoculars, and more gear in several other categories. The list of products tested is far too long to post here. I have a well established reputation as an electronics tester for several major boating and fishing publications including Powerboat Reports, Practical Sailor, and Florida Sportsman. Check them out. You can find my website address by clicking on my login name and visiting my homepage.

Al


----------



## captainchetco

*Pettit Trinidad SR mismo*



Gene T said:


> Pettit Trinidad SR bottom paint
> 
> 2 coats, in the water for 3 years 8 months in San Francisco Bay and all growth just hosed off. Looked like the day it was painted. No barnacles.
> 
> I will use it again.


I have had the same result with two coats, and a third along the waterline. One year of the three has been in Mexico


----------



## orthomartin

*Solar Stik*

Works as advertised. With the two 50 watt panels and the Blue Sky I get from 6 to 8 amps routinely. Also the company has been fantastic. I broke my stik coming out the St Lawrence (due to wrong and poor installation by my yard). I emailed Solar Stik on a Sunday at 7pm and the owner was on the phone with me at 8PM. FedEx'ed all parts and more at no cost to me in Quebec City and talked me though the whole fix. I also use the stik to support a new Furuno radar. Great system, great company


----------



## patrickrea

*ProMariner 12 charger*
Picked it up at Bass Pro Shop at the Vaughn Mills Mall for CDN$130 back in September. Hardwired, Fused Lines, Ignition Protected, Dual Banks, Handles Flooded, AGM and Gel batteries. 3 Stage charger.

A great little charger for those who have lower charging requirements. It took me maybe 5 minutes to install into my battery compartment. I'll take photos when I can see the boat under the snow and the island ferries are running.

I was dragged by the admiral to Vaughn Mills Mall (Just north of Toronto for those who don't know) and I actually wanted to see Bass Pro Shop. Turned out to be a decent little store for basic items. Fenders, docking lines and such and good prices. I also fish (Musky only - gotta love a freshwater fish that can take your hand) and they have some decent lures and pricing. Don't bother looking for sailboat hardware, anything bigger than a bass boat and the staff get the "Deer in the Headlights" look.


----------



## TSOJOURNER

*Micron 66 Bottom Paint*

Always used Trindiad SR but after 6 Months in Mexico I actually had barnacles attached to fresh SR! I think the SR is great in colder water but not so good in warm.

Even with that said, the Micron 66 seams cleaner even in SF.


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## broggerp

*Pettit Protect "Epoxy" -- Really??*

This is my first barrier coat job, but I'm more than a little curious.

I mixed some of my first Pettit Protect gallon kit in the 3-to-1 ratio, and began applying to my sanded epoxy coat. By the time I got 'round to the stern again, the paint applied first appeared to be "drying". That is, I could see differences between dull-looking older paint an the newer (or thicker) portions.

Not to mention, it just didn't _smell_ like any epoxy I've used. It smelled very strongly like good ol' oil-based enamel.

Finally, I left a little in the can and sealed the lid. The next morning, it's still liquid -- seemingly unchanged from when I mixed it.

Now, I'd expect an entire thin layer of epoxy to cure at the same rate, and any residue in the can to be hardened after some period, despite the can's closure.

So, what's the grip? How is this highly volatile _paint_-looking stuff supposed to be an _epoxy_? I'm not convinced it qualifies.

This is not to say there's definitely any problem. The stuff mixed well (though not by hand -- I had to ask the kind people at Home Depot to run it through their machine for me) and went on nicely, and covered a greater area than I'd have thought. (It _did_ seem to, in about a half hour, just about completely dissolve the West System foam roller cover I was using . . . ) It goes on pretty thinly, so I'm sure it'll take more than three coats to get anywhere near the 20 mils -- or whatever the target thickness is (I can't remember right now).

I worked my tired behind off, spending all my spare time last fall, laboriously grinding away my gelcoat. I guess I expected something more obviously like my epoxy first coat to chemically bond with it, rather than what seems more like a simple paint. If InterProtect 2000 is more like "real" epoxy, I'd probably be feeling a lot better right now, having spent a little more $$ to use that, instead.

Anybody else have any experience around this stuff? (Thanks.)


----------



## sailingdog

Interprotect 2000E is definitely an epoxy... I have a couple pairs of work pants that are well covered to prove it... It definitely cures faster with higher temps... I used it to barrier coat my boat two seasons ago.


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## broggerp

*Pettit Protect "Epoxy" -- Really!*

For what it is, Pettit Protect seems to be fine. It dries as hard as rock and looks to be adhering very well.

Much of my doubt about its "epoxy-ness" stemmed from some small residue of a mixed batch remaining liquid in a closed can overnight. But given that, I got careless and left about 1/3 gallon, mixed & stirred, in a closed can. _That_ stuff had cured to a stiff, rubbery solid in less than 24 hours. The only way I can account for the difference is that the first bit was left out on a cold night, while the larger batch was inside my heated "boat tent" -- and therefore must have cured more quickly.

The stuff does seem to smell like paint, and does seem initially to dry like paint, but it also cures to a _very_ tough coating, and looks like it will do nicely.


----------



## ohaavik

*Wichard Lyf'Safe Jackstay*

My latest necessity on board  The jacklines are reflective and I love the way they're fastened with a buckle and a screw-on protective cover so they don't come loose.

Expensive yes, but it's safety equipment, no? They look cool and I can fasten them to the mooring cleats so it's even possible they can hold 2 100kg guys falling overboard at the same time as claimed. Any excuse.


----------



## fawcettm

Hi, talking about bottom paint, has anyone used Micron CSC and how does it compare to Micron Extra for salt/brackish water. We currently have CSC and are planning a south trip and want to know if we need to apply the Extra for salt water.

As well how often do you paint it? we have sections that seem to be pitting and I have to sand those and reapply but if I keep painting doesnt the paint just build up and eventually peel away? and leave craters?

Mark


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## TSOJOURNER

*FROLI Sleep System*

Nice! I just discovered this thread. Good one. So the Froli Sleep System is awesome. We have a vee-berth with original vinyl cushions and fiddle edges that protrud up maybe an inch and a half. When the filler is in, we would end up feeling the wood fiddles in our back. Not very comfortable for sleeping, let alone any amorous activities... I had already done an "I Found it at the Boat Show" video segment with them for our TV show, and they said the video worked wonders. But they were getting a lot of requests for an installation video. So we traded - full disclosure here - an installation video for the Froli system (they got the better end of the deal as far as monetary value, but then we get to sleep without wood in our backs now, so we are very satisfied and happy!). Our friends who liveaboard their Grand Banks are also extremely satisfied. In fact, the few people I've run into that actually have the Froli on their boat are all 100% satisfied.

It was very easy to install, and it made a huge improvement! And it's not very expensive, either. I believe the system we got was worth about $250. Which isn't much considering the benefits (which include air circulation under the mattresses for liveaboards and those in more humid environments). Still, I run into people all the time that ask if the system really works. Now, I don't make any money from it, so I figured it would be OK to post the installation video here. If nothing else, it demonstrates very clearly everything I am talking about...

PS - That's my wife and our boat!


----------



## mgmhead

*Froli System*

Let me second the recommendation for the Froli system. Bought mine at the Annapolis Sailboat Show in 2007 and installed it immediately. Installation was very easy, no tools required. Quality of sleep is wonderful. As stated earlier, I think the cost was around $250 and that's not too much to spend for a comfortable bunk.

:thewave: :thewave:


----------



## anthon

Windborn said:


> Last haulout my trusty sander died an ugly death. All I could find in a hurry was a Bosch variable speed, dual action sander / polisher. I originally balked at the cost, but as I was on deadline to get out of the yard I bought it. This is by far the best sander I've ever used. Highly recommended.


I have a number of Bosch power tools for many years and neither has had any problems. I can certainly vouch for them!


----------



## TSOJOURNER

We have a yacht repair company. here is what we like.

ANCOR WIRE STRIPPER, best tool in the bag. Strips 10 gauge wire and up to about gauge wire with speed and ease
KLEIN WIRE CRIMPERS, your butt connectors will be on tight, not like those cheapie pliers that come in the kits. The ratcheting pliers are nice but too hard to use in tight quarters, which is everywhere on a boat
SPRAY 9 CLEANER, Best all around cleaner ever. So strong that we cut it 50%. Cleans engines, decks, vinyl, clothes, bilges etc. 
DAVIS FSR. Takes the brown hull stains off like magic. No rubbing! Works like the ads of 30 years ago where the housewife takes one swipe across the stove and it sparkles
FLUID FILM. Derusts and protects. Can be sprayed on electrics. engine mounts etc., Protects the engine area and other areas.
ANCOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS. Don't use the cheap brands, these are worth the extra money!
JABSCO IMPELLER PULLERS. Makes changing the salt water impeller job much easier
CORKSCREW PACKING REMOVER TOOL. Not sure of the brand, but they are usually stocked next to the shaft packing. Looks like a miniature wine corkscrew. gets that packing out quick!
COSTCO's SOLAR LED FLASHLIGHTS. Bought 2 more tonight, about $22 pair. They are bright, a single charge lasts 5-10 hours, recharge in sun or incandescent lighting, water proof to 80 feet. NO MORE AA BATTERIES!
LIFELINE BATTERIES. Expensive but if you can afford, they are worth it. A step above the others and usually more "horsepower" than brand X
SENSIBULB LED's. Cost a lot but you get what you pay for. Most LED's are spots or make the saloon look like a lab with the white lights. These work.
CETOL WOOD PROTECTION. Stop being a slave to varnish. This product is easy to apply, no sanding between coats, three coats is max and requires yearly recoating which takes little time. (clear looks beter than original IMHO)
SEARS 12V TEST LIGHT. Sturdy, long self coiling cord, bulletproof. We can't break the damn thing, no matter how much we abuse it.
SEARS 19.2V DRILL. They are powerful, last a long time (but they do not survive drops from 50 foot mast or drops into 16 feet of salt water, as we have found out) these drills are very reasonably priced ($110? maybe less on sale or in a package) BUT the sears jig saw and angle drill which are part of the same series are horrible. poor designs.
YANMAR ENGINES. In the <100hp world, nothing evens comes close to a Yanmar. Nothing!
PB BLASTER PENETRANT . At a few bucks a can, this may be the best value in the toolbox. This stuff actually works to free up bolts. Like Liquid Wrench on steroids. Auto parts stores carry it as does some of the big hardware stores.
KYOCERA 130 SOLAR PANELS. Do these things EVER break??? have never had one come back, started using them 12 years ago.
ACETONE. I love that stuff. can't find it in Puerto vallarta where we now are. breaks my heart. Did not realize how good it was until I could not get it. Clean and dewax hulls with it, thin gel coat, clean greasy areas. (I have to settle for brake cleaner down here to do the job.

Thats my list of good stuff. Have serviced boats for 17 years, and now cruise part time. gary


----------



## MJBrown

*Teak Guard!* The best product I've ever used on teak. Easy to apply, easy to maintain, water based so it doesn't attract dirt and mold, wipes off the gel coat with a damp rag so no need to tape, keeps it's color all season long, doesn't leave a slippery surface and a bottle goes a long way. Just great stuff. I wont use anything else.


----------



## TSOJOURNER

*SURETTE (ROLLS) BATTERIES - 30H108M and T12136M*

I bought two batteries last fall to replace the older ones that the boat came with. Had to get slightly different sizes in accordance with the boat's dimensions. Put them in quickly and didn't think about them.

Brought them home when the boat was hauled for the winter and put them in the garage. Noted at the time that one of the date stickers on one of the batteries seemd old. Was a bit concerned that this might have meant the battery had expired or was nearing the end of its life.

The charger that I was using seemed to bear out my suspicions. It sometimes indicated that the older battery was not holding its charge as well as the newer one.

Accordingly, when the boat show rolled around, I spoke to the Surette rep at their booth and voiced my concerns. He gave me his card and asked me to follow up with him by email after the boat show.

He was quite cordial and I didn't get the impression I was getting a brush-off.

Followed up with an email to the rep, who referred me to the quality control manager. I explained the situation to the QC person who explained to me that the batteries were stored dry, so the dating should not really be an issue. He sent me detailed information on how to test the batteries, and a results sheet to fill out.

I bought the voltmeter and hydrometer he suggested I should use and proceeded to check the batteries. As it turns out, it was my original meter that was faulty, the batteries are fine.

Had they not been, I have every confidence that they would have been replaced immediately no questions asked.

Kudos to Surette for providing patient and professional support ! It's a very rare commodity these days and they deserve to be mentioned for it.

I'll definitely stick with their products. I encourage eveyone else to buy their batteries as well. They may cost a little more up front but they're certainly worth it. The ones that I replaced were 9 years old and still totally serviceable. I gave them to someone else in the marina who installed them on his boat.


----------



## L124C

sailingdog said:


> Three must haves for the Sailor's toolkit are Boeshield T9, McLube SailKote and LanoCote.
> LanoCote is a paste that is made from anhydrous lanolin and works well as a galvanic isolation compound between aluminum and stainless steel. It also works quite well as an anti-galling/anti-siezing compound for use on stainless steel to stainless steel contact. The one downside to the stuff is it looks like baby cack...  When commissioning my boat in the spring, I use LanoCote on all the screw-pin shackles on the boat, as well as most of the bimini/dodger fittings so I can be sure to take them apart at the end of the season. .


Lanocote is good stuff, but use it sparingly. If the weather is cool when you apply it, excess can run off when it gets warm and create a hell of a mess! My buddy found out the hard way!


----------



## L124C

T37Chef said:


> A bit expensive, *but* after using them heeling at 30+ they are a real value.


Wow! Your heeling at 30 degrees and eating (off plates no less)! Leave the galley, go up and release the traveller...It got windy!


----------



## kaluvic

anthon said:


> I have a number of Bosch power tools for many years and neither has had any problems. I can certainly vouch for them!


I've had very good luck with Bosch tools....however their free "throw-in" drill bits kit is ****.


----------



## kaluvic

I cant believe that the word (another way of saying defecate) was censored out....that’s a little over the top isn’t it?


----------



## LarryandSusanMacDonald

*Cap't John's Boat Brite Algae & Waterline Stain Remover*

I work in a marina, and when we haul boats, after pressure washing there is always the 'scum line' along the waterline as well as rust stains from drain holes and the infamous Pamlico Smile (some call it the Chesapeake Smile). Up until recently we used Y-10 or On and Off. Both are very caustic, we would suit up and wear gloves and go around painting the stuff on, wait for the scum to disappear and then hose it off. Sometimes we would have to repeat the application. It could take up to an hour on a really stained boat (that includes suiting up, trip to the stock room, getting hose out, etc. etc.).

About a year ago we started using *Cap't John's Boat Brite Algae & Waterline Stain Remover*. What a difference! Walk around the boat and spray - wait about 5 seconds and hose it off. (Always keeping upwind of the spray so it doesn't blow back in your eyes.) 40 foot boat in about 10 minutes!

The label claims it meets EPA National Clean Marina Guidelines. It says non-toxic and no harsh chemicals. I don't know what's in it but whatever it is, it works well.


----------



## KismetP362

*Corrosion X*

Pros:
This stuff is the best. I keep one on the boat, in the dingy, in the truck, in the garage, in the shed, and in the basement. My wife gets a couple bottles for my father and I each year for Christmas. Use on electronic contacts, trailer parts, squeaks that keep you up at night, Polish SS with it, uber-penetrant everything.

Cons:
$15 a bottle, the aerosol version runs out of aerosol before it runs out of liquid (avoid), Dust and dirt do get caught in it. Little goes a long way and I'm always putting on way to much.

I get mine at HamiltonMarine.com


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## ereiss

*Poop-Off All Marine Bird Poop Remover*

It works. Came back to boat, last year, to find that the cormorants had decided my spreaders were the "in place" for dining. Poop-off removed their leavings from the sailcover and dodger beautifully.

Doesn't get any better. Actually it does, new boat is Freedom which has no spreaders.

Can be found in pet supply stores and Amazon.com


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## Gene T

Duraglit or Never Dull. Same thing but it is very handy and works great for cleaning stainless.


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## thekeip

Just got a chance to use a product called "Spotless Stainless", introduced on Sailnet a few months ago, and am pleased to report that the stuff is every bit as good as the chap said it was. This is a product that is a creamy white gel one applies with a short bristle "acid brush" to the affected rust stain. Leave it on for 30 min and hose it off. I find I'm more comfortable using it than I am with FSR, also a gelled rust stain remover. I haven't used Spotless in general stain removal applications on gelcoat as I have with FSR, but as far as Stainless cleaning is concerned this stuff gets my whole hearted approval.
Howard Keiper
berkeley


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## dougshipl

I second Gene T's thoughts on the Pettit Trinidad SR bottom paint. We had a Irwin 34' sloop we kept in Richmond Bay Marina in SF and it lasted 3 years. Then we sold the boat when we relocated and used the product in combo with Interprotect 2000 as a barrier coat on a 46' we purchased in Fort Lauderdale and often sail in warm Bahama waters. When we hauled last Oct...after 2 years...it was in better shape then the Irwin hull. We had slime on the waterline on the sunny side of the hull while at dock but that was it.


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## T37Chef

L124C said:


> Wow! Your heeling at 30 degrees and eating (off plates no less)! Leave the galley, go up and release the traveller...It got windy!


LOL, yup, maybe I exaggerated a bit  Ya think.


----------



## LinekinBayCD

*Garmin Oregon 400c*

I could not resist the sale at West Marine for the Gamin Oregon 400c handheld, $299 vs. a Garmin list of $499 and online prices at GPSCity.com of around $425 and $450 at TigerGPS.com. I got this as a backup to a fixed mount Garmin 3006c and Garmin GPSMap 478 (transportable but not a handheld). It is replacing a garmin GPSMap 76 (being retired because of the grey scale screen and my need for reading glasses. The big features for me with the Oregon 400c were the price, the fact that it is preloaded with all US coastal charts and the color screen.

In addition to the above units I have owned a Garmin GPS 12, a GPSMap 12 and a Nuvi 205 (still using). I'm obviously a big fan of Garmin products and put the order in as soon as I saw the sale price and compared some online vendors. This is a preliminary review as I have not used it on the water yet.

Pros

All US costal charts preloaded.

Excelent GPS reception. I'm getting 4 out of 5 bars inside a stone portion of my house.

Good color screen, in sunlight and in shade.

Battery usage appears to be very good. Use two AA's Alkaline, Lithium, rechargeable.

Contains tide tables and sun/moon phases

Update of unit software very easy.

Download of waypoints and routes from Garmin Mapsource program very easy.

Is a fair amount smaller than the Garmin GPS 72-76 series.

Accepts map data cards.

Cons.

Menu system not very intuitive. Different from any other Garmin unit I am familar with.

Software used appears to have been designed for hikeing and fitness use rather than marine use. Some typical marine functions not found such as "course to steer", "speed over ground". The software for the GPS 72-76 series better designed for marine use.

Instructions on calibrating touch screen difficule to find but at end of manual.

4/6/10

Still have not used it on the water yet but did have a problem with the software update installed as part of the online registration process. There is a glitch with the latest software version 3.7 which prevents the unity from being put into the "nautical" mode which changes the default screen colors making it easier to read the charts and with the display of spot sounding. Tech support at Garmin with providing a work around untill an updated version of the software is issued. They emailed an earllier version of the unit software to be installed (very easy) until the fix is made.

5/17/10

Finally tried it on the water as a back up to a Garmin 3006 and 478.

Pros

Found current stations in the preloaded software, a nice surprise.

Cons
Ther vertical (portrait) orentation of the screen doesn't work as well IMHO as the horizontal (lanscape) orentation of either the 3006 or 478.

The unit software does provide tide charts which can be adjusted for other than the current date but it does not provide an indicator line of the current time. You need to interpert where you are on the tide chart from high and low times.


----------



## JimMcGee

*Imtra Lights*

We've been gradually upgrading everything on our boat so the OEM plastic light fixtures had to go. Imtra makes some great looking pieces. I originally hesitated because of the price, but wanted something sharp for our new bulkhead light.

I ordered the St Maarten with a glass shade at the boat show and was really impressed when I received the light. Excellent build quality, high quality connectors and a really sharp looking piece.

After a year I noticed some slight pitting in the shade and called Imtra. They were aware of a problem with some lights and without question shipped me two additional glass shades. I'm VERY impressed with their products and customer service.

Jim


----------



## SuzySailor

Okay, just worked my way all the way through this very useful thread. Our contribution:

Harbor Freight Multi-Function Tool. We're getting to the end (thank the Gods) of a complete deck replacement, and use this tool fairly continuously, every day. We got two, eventually, and got the $5 extended warranty with each. With two we can both work at the same time, keep them set up with different blades, or with blades set up at different angles. Also if one croaks, you still have the other. They work great (though loud, I use ear plugs) and are about a tenth of the cost of the Fein Multi-Tool. 

Another thing we love is the solar flashlights you used to be able to get at Costco. Not sure they're still there. Bright light, no friggin' batteries to change if you just keep them where they can get sunlight. VERY tough-- we melted one, and it's curved worse than a banana and still working...

Spotless Stainless is amazing in re-habbing corroded stainless steel.


----------



## WanderingStar

*Jabsco 36800*

I installed one last fall to replace a dead PAR. I've read poor reviews of Jabsco pumps, but it was onboard, new in the box. I didn't try it until spring, when I refilled my tanks. It leaked. I tightened the fittings and clamps. It leaked. Tightened again, broke the outlet port. Bought a new port, reassembled, it leaked. Looking carefully, I see that the leak is from the pressure switch. Removed, tightened, reinstalled. It leaks. Removed, tightened the bottomplate screws. Reinstalled, no leak! I don't know how well the pump will last, but I'm not encouraged by the lax assembly procedure.


----------



## tattoosteve

SuzySailor said:


> Okay, just worked my way all the way through this very useful thread. Our contribution:
> 
> Harbor Freight Multi-Function Tool. We're getting to the end (thank the Gods) of a complete deck replacement, and use this tool fairly continuously, every day. We got two, eventually, and got the $5 extended warranty with each. With two we can both work at the same time, keep them set up with different blades, or with blades set up at different angles. Also if one croaks, you still have the other. They work great (though loud, I use ear plugs) and are about a tenth of the cost of the Fein Multi-Tool.


i totally agree on the multi tool, absolutely indispensable. i thought it paid for itself the first time i used it. also the finger sanding attachment can get to places you would not believe, dramatically reduces sanding time.


----------



## L124C

*Rust removal*

Found a spray rust remover called "Ready Strip" by Sunnyside Products at my local hardware store. Contains Oxalic and Citric Acids. I've tried similar products before, but this stuff did a good job on rust stains nothing else worked on. 32 oz cost less than $6.00! It's odor free, and claims to be environmentally safe.


----------



## j34035

Max Prop (PYI) is now on my list of preferred vendors. I worked with Fred Hutchison on parts for a prop and he took all the necessary time to make sure I was getting what I needed. They seem like a good company to do business with!
DD


----------



## Chadfunk48

Has any gotten, or know someone who as sail from FX sails online. Are they any good. They would be for a Hunter so I'm not worried about sizing issues. Any toughts?


----------



## Jerry Pleiades

I have tried many brands of ablative paints for my sailboats the past dozen years. In the Bronx, NY, there is a constant coating of brine shrimp. I would dive down and clean the bottom almost every other week by August/September as the water warmed up.This past winter I found an article in Practical Sailor. They raved about *Blue Water Marine Paint Copper Pro SCX 67 Boosted Ablative Paint*. It is almost September, and I have done one quick cleaning all season. I will never try another bottom paint!!!


----------



## Brewgyver

SuzySailor said:


> Okay, just worked my way all the way through this very useful thread. Our contribution:
> 
> (snippage) They work great (though loud, I use ear plugs) and are about a tenth of the cost of the Fein Multi-Tool.


That's a very important tip about the earplugs. While you're at Harbor Freight, HD, whereever, pick up a box of the foam ear plugs. Be sure to use them right: you have to roll them between finger and thumb to compress them, then insert them INTO your ear canal. It will tickle when they expand, but that's the ONLY way they will work. If the end of the plug is sticking out past your ear, they will not protect your hearing!


----------



## Sea Dawg

3M Finesse applied with a Milwaukee right angel polishing motor will absolutely cut thru flat sun-faded gel coat and get it back to a gloss with color. Don't overdo it as there is a limit to how much gel coat you can remove.

PB Buster or Kroil are two of the best penetrants made for your worst fastener that's stuck. WD40 is on every shelf so you'll have to look at NAPA or some high end stores to find them.


----------



## zz4gta

Gill safety knife. 
Wish I could've reviewed the knife but the sheath held so poorly it would drop the knife if there was a stiff breeze. Wrote to gill, no response, no change in design. Horrible retention.


----------



## L124C

zz4gta said:


> Gill safety knife.
> Wish I could've reviewed the knife but the sheath held so poorly it would drop the knife if there was a stiff breeze. Wrote to gill, no response, no change in design. Horrible retention.


You're missing the point (no pun intended!). The knife instantly falls out of it's sheath into the drink. Then...there is no way you can hurt yourself with it. Can't get any "safer" than that!

Seriously, maybe your's was defective (looks like it has a mechanical release). If West Marine carries them (and IF you still have it!), I would check them out there. They would probably exchange it. No excuse for Gill not responding though! Unfortunately, poor customer service (or NO customer service!) seems more common now days.


----------



## L124C

*Led spotlight*

*Edit: See post 113 before buying this light!*
Bought this Led spot light at Lowe's for $39. It's rechargeable, is compact (it's body is about the size of my hand), waterproof (it floats beam up), has a bright beam for a small light and has adjustable intensity to save power. The on/off adjustment system looks like a potential weak link to me, but user reviews are good. A nice addition to my boat.
Shop Stanley Waterproof LED Spotlight Flashlight at Lowes.com

BTW: This thread has proved useful and popular. Having just reviewed it again, I agree with early posts that called for a product review forum. It would be even more useful. Categories could include: Tools, Paints, Cleaning products, Electronics, Lighting, etc. The pages of this thread should provide a useful guide.


----------



## rugosa

Had 2 of those lights, bought at Costco in Canada for $29.99 each. Great ergonomics, size, range, brightness. BUT neither one would recharge after about 4 months. Used them when showing houses, never had them wet. I'm rating them 0 out of 5 stars.


----------



## carl762

L124C said:


> Bought this Led spot light at Lowe's for $39. It's rechargeable, is compact (it's body is about the size of my hand), waterproof (it floats beam up), has a bright beam for a small light and has adjustable intensity to save power. The on/off adjustment system looks like a potential weak link to me, but user reviews are good. A nice addition to my boat.
> Shop Stanley Waterproof LED Spotlight Flashlight at Lowes.com


I bought one of these Stanley lights last year. Works great, no problems with on/off, really holds a charge, and is very bright.


----------



## L124C

*Oh no...say it ain't so!*



rugosa said:


> Had 2 of those lights, bought at Costco in Canada for $29.99 each. Great ergonomics, size, range, brightness. BUT neither one would recharge after about 4 months. Used them when showing houses, never had them wet. I'm rating them 0 out of 5 stars.


Yikes! I was afraid of that, but thought battery technology had advanced enough to avoid that old problem. I understand that Costco has such volume, that name brands manufacture products "especially" for them to achieve their price points (hence, the 33% discount). Don't know if it's true, but given the favorable reviews I've seen on the light, including one in this thread, maybe thats the case. If not, I'll be sure to post about it, just after I return the light to Lowe's!
*Edit: Sure enough....The light no longer takes a charge. Called Stanley and they said I could return it (of course). Asked the rep it the light was problematic. He said "no...I have one myself". Yeah...right! Too bad. Other than the fact it no longer works, it's a nice light!*


----------



## carl762

Hmm, must have got lucky. Been using mine in a marine environment for well over a year. Love the light. It really packs a punch.


----------



## NauticalFishwife

*Re: Product Reviews-SNADS*

Finally getting around to installing the snaps for my cockpit cushions. After thinking twice about drilling, even a small hole for the metal snap/screw I decided to use the 3m SNAD. It's plastic, has a great adhesive with no holes to drill. I used the male SNAP for the locker lids and metal female snaps for the strap on the cockpit cushions. So far, so good! They are holding very well!


----------



## Tanley

*Re: Product Reviews-SNADS*



NauticalFishwife said:


> Finally getting around to installing the snaps for my cockpit cushions. After thinking twice about drilling, even a small hole for the metal snap/screw I decided to use the 3m SNAD. It's plastic, has a great adhesive with no holes to drill. I used the male SNAP for the locker lids and metal female snaps for the strap on the cockpit cushions. So far, so good! They are holding very well!


Do you have a link to the product? I checked Google and the 3M site and snaps snaps for everything from dentures to stethoscopes.


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## blutoyz

Boomkicker...

Two thumbs up

Installed easily and I no longer fight with my backstay mounted topping lift. An added bunis is no more ducking at anchor


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## DocTom54

I have an '86 Peterson 46 that is fitted with Adkins Hoyle hatches and port lights. For the life of this boat these have been superior products, well constructed with little in design left to be desired. recently I went to replace the galley hatch as the opening portion developed a crack in the aluminum casting from metal fatigue from the spring. It only lasted 27 years! Wishing to replace with like brand I ordered a new hatch from AH as they would not replace the broken part only. It is a 12"x 17" hatch, replacement was $1275.00, which I thought was a bit high but as I could not fault the quality ordered the replacement. What I received was not the quality present on the boat and AH gladly accepted return with promise of a suitable replacement. Having just received the replacement and being again dissatisfied with its quality, called AH and spoke to Eric. He indicated that he had himself inspected the unit before shipment and found it acceptable. the issues are the castings which are of a much rougher finish and overall poorer in detail, the hinge bar holes were inaccurately drilled making the hatch and base misaligned upon meeting, the hatch is "reversible which is an additional charge but the support bar hole was not tapped. When I informed AH about the deficiencies I was informed that this was "as good as it gets" and that I was welcome to return the unit but that there was no point in replacing as another would be no better. I will likely keep the unit as I wish to keep uniformity in my components but I wanted to let folks know that we cannot rely on the quality of AH products as we have in the past. ERic at AH told me it was no longer profitable to invest the labor to make the same quality product as is on my 27 year old boat. And that is at $1275 for a 12x17 hatch. 
so as a gear review thread just thought I would put this out there. The people were polite and accommodating and willing to accept return so I cannot fault them for that but they are apparently no longer capable of producing the quality that is their reputation.


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## rugosa

I had similar response and attitude from Eric over saloon and head hatch lenses and also opening port gaskets & fasteners. For two small lenses, 3/8" gasket & 6 2-1/2 socket head screws over $600. I located everything needed elsewhere for less than $200. They obviously don't know how their competitors produce a better product at a profit. But it's the attitude that less is better when boats cost more, production volume is lower, and the higher end buyer is expecting more. You would think tooling quality for castings would have improved, not gotten worse. A&H covered a huge market in their day, but it sounds like their days could be numbered.


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## DocTom54

Thanks Rugosa, it helps to know that I wasn't being unreasonable.


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## VallelyJ

*Ritchie Navigator BN202 bulkhead compass*

The magnets fell off the bottom of the card. Spontaneously, as far as I can tell. I looked one day and the card was skewed and unresponsive to a magnet. The 2 little magnets were rolling around on the bottom.
Sent it back. They were good about fixing it under warranty (about 2 years old) and said that enough glue hadn't been used during assembly.
So there I am stuck in a fog bank with only the compass to get me along a safe course. Plop. The magnets fall off because a) they were stuck on with glue and b) not enough glue. How chinese.
OK, the boat was on the hard and not at sea when this failure occured. But only by pure luck.
As I said, they fixed it without any problem, once I spent my time dismounting and shipping it to them. (No need to apologize, by the way) But the more I think about it, the more p__ed off I get at these dumb-asses. For over $200 they can damn well figure out how to affix the magnets mechanically, and not just stick them on with chemical spit. (Maybe mold the plastic so they clip in place, and glue them redundantly? Or is that too expensive?)
I hear Plastimo's equivalent is good--I wish I'd bought one.
John Vallely


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## sulli

DocTom54 said:


> I have an '86 Peterson 46 that is fitted with Adkins Hoyle hatches and port lights. For the life of this boat these have been superior products, well constructed with little in design left to be desired. recently I went to replace the galley hatch as the opening portion developed a crack in the aluminum casting from metal fatigue from the spring. It only lasted 27 years! Wishing to replace with like brand I ordered a new hatch from AH as they would not replace the broken part only. It is a 12"x 17" hatch, replacement was $1275.00, which I thought was a bit high but as I could not fault the quality ordered the replacement. What I received was not the quality present on the boat and AH gladly accepted return with promise of a suitable replacement. Having just received the replacement and being again dissatisfied with its quality, called AH and spoke to Eric. He indicated that he had himself inspected the unit before shipment and found it acceptable. the issues are the castings which are of a much rougher finish and overall poorer in detail, the hinge bar holes were inaccurately drilled making the hatch and base misaligned upon meeting, the hatch is "reversible which is an additional charge but the support bar hole was not tapped. When I informed AH about the deficiencies I was informed that this was "as good as it gets" and that I was welcome to return the unit but that there was no point in replacing as another would be no better. I will likely keep the unit as I wish to keep uniformity in my components but I wanted to let folks know that we cannot rely on the quality of AH products as we have in the past. ERic at AH told me it was no longer profitable to invest the labor to make the same quality product as is on my 27 year old boat. And that is at $1275 for a 12x17 hatch.
> so as a gear review thread just thought I would put this out there. The people were polite and accommodating and willing to accept return so I cannot fault them for that but they are apparently no longer capable of producing the quality that is their reputation.


I realize this an old post, but there is an excellent product I have used to weld aluminum with great success its called ALUMIWELD. I used this to repair a hole ripped into an aluminum hubcap from a 1925 Nash After 20 years its still there and only slightly different color. Also an alum flag staff bracket, a deck chair, and a few other things.
After welding the parts together the weld can be filed,ground,sanded and polished. I dont know how to add a link but I just typed the name and search found it. You get 20 sticks for $35 a lifetime supply or share with friends,I am connected to them in any way just think its a great product.


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## Johnniegee

I,ve had a stanley light that looks like that one for years. was a xmas present a long time ago and still works fine.


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## warren22

Product: BoatLife's LIFE-CAULK
Its an old product, been around forever.....works better than silicone in most applications.


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## RobGallagher

*Re: Led spotlight*



L124C said:


> *Edit: See post 113 before buying this light!*
> Bought this Led spot light at Lowe's for $39. It's rechargeable, is compact (it's body is about the size of my hand), waterproof (it floats beam up), has a bright beam for a small light and has adjustable intensity to save power. The on/off adjustment system looks like a potential weak link to me, but user reviews are good. A nice addition to my boat.
> Shop Stanley Waterproof LED Spotlight Flashlight at Lowes.com
> 
> BTW: This thread has proved useful and popular. Having just reviewed it again, I agree with early posts that called for a product review forum. It would be even more useful. Categories could include: Tools, Paints, Cleaning products, Electronics, Lighting, etc. The pages of this thread should provide a useful guide.


I purchased the same light at Walshite. Oddly enough I picked up an orange colored unit in the camping dept. that was selling for about $50. I was walking down the isle towards checkout and noticed this yellow unit near hardware for about $30.

I compared them and could tell the tooling/molding was very similar. In fact, I think they are the same light. Can't remember the brand of the orange unit.

I tossed the orange one out of the cart and in goes the yellow one. That was over a year ago. It got some light use over last summer and sat in storage all winter, so far is still holding a charge!


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## eherlihy

*Re: Led spotlight*



L124C said:


> *Edit: See post 113 before buying this light!*
> Bought this Led spot light at Lowe's for $39. It's rechargeable, is compact (it's body is about the size of my hand), waterproof (it floats beam up), has a bright beam for a small light and has adjustable intensity to save power. The on/off adjustment system looks like a potential weak link to me, but user reviews are good. A nice addition to my boat.
> Shop Stanley Waterproof LED Spotlight Flashlight at Lowes.com
> 
> BTW: This thread has proved useful and popular. Having just reviewed it again, I agree with early posts that called for a product review forum. It would be even more useful. Categories could include: Tools, Paints, Cleaning products, Electronics, Lighting, etc. The pages of this thread should provide a useful guide.


I just bought a similar, yet different LED spotlight at WallMart. It cost ~$35, has a NiMh battery, is claimed to be waterproof up to 6 feet, and comes with both a DC and an AC charger... The model number is : FL5W10.

I filed the receipt, so I'll turn it in if it fails in under a year.










The most common complaint in the reviews were that some version of the advertising stated that you would get an LED Headlamp if you bought the unit, and the LED Headlamp was not included.


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## grumpyolddude

I'd like to send a shout out to Forespar, I lost one end of my small extendable whisker pole, couldn't find where to get a replacement. Long story short, sent an email to Forespar and they sent me two replacements, no questions asked. That is good customer service!!


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