# Sewing machine corner



## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

Hey guys, 

I contributed to another post and to keep it from being permanently high jacked I figured I would start a thread for folks to ask questions about sewing machines seeing as it is something that many of us venture into purchasing. One of my many responsibilities has been to purchase, maintain and upgrade sewing machines for a sewing sewing department that makes wheelchair seating. I have been trained on repair of machines and have a decent knowledge of the machines that are out there and I am an fair enough at sewing to get by. If you have a question feel free to leave a message here on this thread and I will answer it soon as I can. I am going to post a short write up of the different options for sewing machines out there and address some of the FAQ's about them as soon as I find the time to write it up. Hope this is a good help to you guys and please don't hesitate to ask. 

All the best, 

Gary


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## gbgreen59 (Aug 20, 2013)

I bought a sewing machine from SailRite. I found out after buying it that the triple stitch zig-zag is an important part of sail making/repair. I'm wondering if I should replace this machine with one that has the triple stitch zig-zag feature. Do you have any experience whether the normal zig-zag is good enough if you are just making things from canvas (Sunbrella) and just repairing sails?


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## gbgreen59 (Aug 20, 2013)

Do you have any tips for maintaining a sewing machine while cruising? What kind of general maintenance should there be?


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## Jd1 (Aug 16, 2011)

gbgreen59 said:


> I bought a sewing machine from SailRite. I found out after buying it that the triple stitch zig-zag is an important part of sail making/repair. I'm wondering if I should replace this machine with one that has the triple stitch zig-zag feature. Do you have any experience whether the normal zig-zag is good enough if you are just making things from canvas (Sunbrella) and just repairing sails?


SailRite mentions that a triple stitch zig-zag is not a requirement for sail work. It allows you to do in one pass what a regular zig-zag requires two passes. Be happy with your regular zig-zag until you start building sails commercially.
BTW, canvas work uses straight stitching.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

gbgreen59 said:


> I bought a sewing machine from SailRite. I found out after buying it that the triple stitch zig-zag is an important part of sail making/repair. I'm wondering if I should replace this machine with one that has the triple stitch zig-zag feature. Do you have any experience whether the normal zig-zag is good enough if you are just making things from canvas (Sunbrella) and just repairing sails?


Great Question. Let me start off by saying I am a big fan of the Sailrite machine. It is a very well built machine in a compact form. As far as the triple stitching zig-zag on the sails you are correct, that is the strongest stitch for the sails. Below is an example of the differences between regular zig-zag and a 3stitch zig-zag. 








Typically the machines that do this stitch are going to be bigger and not very mobile. Not all sail-makers use this stitch either. The other way to get a strong seam is to run parallel zig-zag stitches to double the strength. 
The Sailrite machine can do this, you just have to get good at running those zig-zags parallel to each other. The biggest thing that you can do to help you do that is make sure you are very consistent on your feed of the material. Let the machine do the work and pull the material just guide it and make sure that it feeds the same through the entire run.

As far as stitching on Sunbrella and other canvas type materials for covers the straight stitch is fine. I just suggest running at least two stitches and always using a folded seam. This will give you the strength you need and a good finished look.

For good Triple stitch machines you can try looking at CowBoy sewing machines. They have machines designed for sail making applications with double needle zig zag machines and triple stitch zig zag machines. Prices may be quite high for the hobby sewer though.

Heavy duty zigzag sail making machines

Hope this helps.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

gbgreen59 said:


> Do you have any tips for maintaining a sewing machine while cruising? What kind of general maintenance should there be?


Yes, the three things that you can do to make sure the machine stays in good working order while cruising is as follows.

1. Keep it well oiled! A good oil coated machine using a heavy oil is going to help prevent rust in a salt environment. I is usually a good to keep it in a well ventilated area in stowage that will not have a great deal of moisture in it. Keep the belts with a bit of belt dressing on them to keep them from dry rotting.

2. Make sure you have the machine secured so that it is not buffeted about i while stowed and in heavy weather. All that knocking it around will cause it to get out of adjustment and out of time. Secure it upright and solid and that will save you tons of headaches.

3. Use it. Don't let it sit for 6 months pull it out and use it for something. it will keep the internals oiled and will keep it running smoothly.


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

gbgreen59 said:


> Do you have any tips for maintaining a sewing machine while cruising? What kind of general maintenance should there be?


I think perhaps obvious, that another tip would be having the user manual, and if you can find one the service manual, if not for your specific machine then a generic service manual for that class of machine.


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## glymroff (Apr 2, 2009)

Is there a 'new' machine in the $300 dollar range that is ok for cruising? The intended use would be canvas (bimini, dodger, sail cover, etc.), re-doing the cushions both inside and out, & emergency sail repair (just to get to a sail loft and have it done right). 

I'm of the assumption that a zig-zag feature would be just for sail repair, and not really necessary for quick 'get you home' repairs.

thx in advance!


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## hurricanehole (Oct 22, 2009)

Hi-thanks for doing this. I have a red sailrite machine and would like to know if I could take it to my moored boat and sew with it running off a small red honda generator, EU200i. If so that would push me over the edge in buying a small gen.


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## Letrappes (Apr 30, 2010)

I was seriously thinking about buying a new Sailrite machine a few months back. About the time I was ready a friend was selling a wedding present to them which was a singer 160. It was brand new and retails for about $400 but I paid $175. 

Over a couple weeks I made all new hatch covers for my boat and it did a great job. I don't think I would use it for sail making but for normal canvas it works great. I'm in the process of making an insulated companionway cover for my boat and am planning on making a new mainsail cover. I really wish I hadn't paid someone to make a new bimini for me early this year as it would've been easy with this.


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## 3ladies (Oct 29, 2003)

I just bought an industrial sewing machine made by Toyota. I haven't used it yet but can't wait though.


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## Squidd (Sep 26, 2011)

I have to say I am one of those guys with an older cast iron Kenmore with the steel gears and I can sew a mean zig zag as well as straight stich....

And I have made many boat related items, covers, etc as well as some major sail repair (there are several threads around)..

BUT..My buddy got a sailright machine, and let me play with it a bit and I hate to say it but I have to... 

There is no comparison between the two The Sailright machine just grabs and pulls and stitches like nobodys business no breaking a sweat, or thread, or needles just hold and sew...multiple layers no problem...

I'll still fight with my old machine for a few minor projects I have, But High on my list of things to get is an actual Sailright LZ1 for any major projects I plan to do in the near future.

You gotta see one in action to really appreciate the ease. 

(maybe I'll just go over to his house and "borrow" his)


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

Tad off subject BUT I recently purchased the Sailrite LZ1 along with a jib and main sail kits. I have to say the sewing machine is a brute. It has gone thru 8 layers of 7.4 oz dacron along with 4 layers of nylon webbing. I do believe whatever fits under the foot it will sew. 
I'm just about done with the jib.


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

For those considering a straight stitch machine for marine canvas, some information on types of machines might be helpful. Almost all folks who sew marine canvas for a living use a rotaty-hook, compound walking-foot machines (aka, compound-feed, unison-feed, triple-feed).

A compound walking-foot has both drop-feed (bottom-feed) and needle-feed (top-feed) with an alternating presser-foot (walking-foot).

The following links might be helpful, and do click on "show more" on the YouTube video.

Sewing machine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia






The Sailrite LS and LSZ machines are drop-feed, walking-foot machines.

Canvas can be sewn with what are sometimes called semi-industrial home sewing machines and are drop-feed machines. Another limitation of these machines is clearance under the foot, and the number of layers of material can mount-up quickly. Just try hemming the inside flat-felled seam of a pair of Levis to get the idea which is fewer layers of material than is usually encountered sewing marine canvas.


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

The Sailrite LSZ-1 has a similar compound walking foot to what you show. You can see it in action at 1:10 into this video:





My only piece of sewing machine advice is to buy a real Sailrite and not one of the similar machines like a Barracuda. I bought a Barracuda, but by the time you fix all of the deficiencies that the Sailrite has improved on you will have spent as much as what a Sailrite costs.

I bought the Barracuda for $500 on Amazon. Added the monster wheel (still not as good as Sailrite's wheel) for $100, Sailrite case for $125, and the Sailrite user manual for $20.
To really fix my machine to have the locking wheel that Sailrite has would cost another $60 in parts. That is about $800, the same price as the Sailrite and I don't get the benefits of Sailrite service or the small internal improvements that they've made.

Since I've bought it the Barracuda price has gone up $100.


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

Alex W,

The Ultrafeed is a walking-foot machine but not a compound walking-foot machine.

Looking carefully, the action in the video shows the alternating presser-foot but no needle-feed -- the needle simply goes up and down, and does not follow an elliptical path pulling material through the machine. Sailrite's documentation does not claim compound feed for the Ultrafeed, but does for the Sailrite 111.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...1fa-KA0pTpqe8M0fq12xnNg&bvm=bv.57967247,d.b2I


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## Missingyou (Aug 16, 2013)

I've been researching machines for the past few months and am considering the LSZ-1. It is $75 off at the moment with free shipping. These machines easily sell used for $600 and go quickly if in good shape. If you run out of interest or projects you would have no trouble unloading it. 

My projects will include a full winter cover, perhaps modifications to my Bimini for screens, hatch covers, cushions, etc.


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## Liquorice (Nov 28, 2007)

I run a one man sail repair and canvas business. It pays for my sailing trips!
The business is seasonal - there are currently ice boats on the lake - I do get a few ice boat sail repairs though!
I bought an LSZ-1 Sailrite machine in 2007 - it is the only machine I have.
I've just printed my 200th invoice. That's 200 sail repairs; UV stripes on genoas; companionway covers; boat covers; dodgers; furling socks etc., etc..
Most of the boats I do work for are in the 25ft to 30 ft size.
In 6 years the LSZ-1 has lost its timing once. I re-timed it myself by looking at the manual. Back in business in 2 hrs. This machine is bullet proof. Backup from Sailrite is always there if you need it - you probably won't!
you can cheap out on second hand, $200 machines, but the grief isn't worth the hassle. If you are new to sewing you won't know if it's you or the machine. All of my problems when I started were me! The machine just kept going. There is a learning curve to marine sewing, just like anything else. Having good, reliable equipment takes one unknown out of the mix.
Sam


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## gbgreen59 (Aug 20, 2013)

I have used the LSZ1 to make a kiteboarding kite and to repair kites. These fabrics tend to move relative to each other even though the machine has a walking foot. What ends up happening is that the fabrics don't feed at the same rate. This happens even when tension is maintained by hand when feeding of the fabrics. SailRite recommended taping the fabrics (double sided tape) when using these fabrics. Taping did the trick and made managing the fabric much easier. I am assuming that kite fabrics are lighter (i.e. thinner) than sail fabrics. Do sail fabrics also require taping? I think the issue is that nylon/dacron tend to be very slick thus causing the feed rates being different. Any insights into this by some of the more expereinced users?


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## Liquorice (Nov 28, 2007)

I use double sided tape a lot.
It takes the place of the pins my wife uses with her home sewing. I never use pins, they are very hard to use with even a few thicknesses of canvas.
I also use a stapler. A regular long reach office stapler. Will penetrate canvas and Dacron easily and the staples are easy to pull out with snips or small pliers.
Sam


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

" Do sail fabrics also require taping? "

Yes. Sailrite included 250 yards of double sided sticky tape in the two sail kits I recently purchased. The Dacron is very slick. I don't see how one could sew together the parts with any kind of accuracy without the tape. I have stapled together parts of cushions prior to sewing.


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

Seam-tape can gum-up the needle. However, seam-tape seems almost essential for long, internal runs, including sails. Two ways to help mitigate gumming the needle is to apply the seam-tape offset from the line of stitches or use a thread lubricator.

When hemming, in addition to staples I also use HDX 3/4 in. Mini Spring Clamps (37 cents each from Home Depot), Binder clips from an office supply store, such as 3/4” wide, 3/8” capacity, or T-Pins from Sailrite.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

glymroff said:


> Is there a 'new' machine in the $300 dollar range that is ok for cruising? The intended use would be canvas (bimini, dodger, sail cover, etc.), re-doing the cushions both inside and out, & emergency sail repair (just to get to a sail loft and have it done right).
> 
> I'm of the assumption that a zig-zag feature would be just for sail repair, and not really necessary for quick 'get you home' repairs.
> 
> thx in advance!


That is a tough order! There are a great deal of machines that you can get that will do what you want (used) but the portability is where you are going to suffer a bit. For that price you are likely going to be in the range of a used NELCO, BROTHER or if you are lucky and early generation Sailrite LS. The Nelco is a better quality home machine that will do some medium duty sewing but is not necessarily designed to do the heavier canvas so results on a tri-fold seem may not be consistent. Many machines that were designed to do the heavier materials were designed to also be compact. You can get a Sailrite machine at the sailing shows for a deal which would put you in the $600 range.

Here is a sample of a NELCO machine

Restored Vintage Nelco R-400-2 Zigzag Sewing Machine - made in Japan, heavy duty - Sewing Machines & Sergers


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

hurricanehole said:


> Hi-thanks for doing this. I have a red sailrite machine and would like to know if I could take it to my moored boat and sew with it running off a small red honda generator, EU200i. If so that would push me over the edge in buying a small gen.


Should work fine. The Machine you describe is the LS-1 (I think) and that motor pulls 1.7 amps at 6600RPM. Even at start up I don't think it would be enough to trip the breaker on the Honda by a good 5-8 amps. You should be just fine doing that. By the way that is a nice little generator!


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

Captainmeme said:


> Tad off subject BUT I recently purchased the Sailrite LZ1 along with a jib and main sail kits. I have to say the sewing machine is a brute. It has gone thru 8 layers of 7.4 oz dacron along with 4 layers of nylon webbing. I do believe whatever fits under the foot it will sew.
> I'm just about done with the jib.


You are correct. If it fits under the foot it will go through it. Heavier needle helps the cause.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

gbgreen59 said:


> Do sail fabrics also require taping? I think the issue is that nylon/dacron tend to be very slick thus causing the feed rates being different. Any insights into this by some of the more expereinced users?


The thicker the material the better it hold shape and feeds more evenly. Double sided or "basting tape" is a good practice for novice or learning sewers. I still use double sided tape when making sail repairs because it is one less thing that I have to worry about. The other thing that you can use is one of the many attachments available the will do the folding for specific seams for you. Sailrite has a good selection of attachments. With more experience you will need less assistance. I have a couple women in the shop here that can sew very quickly with little to no aid from folders, attachments or tape.


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## mjf55 (May 1, 2007)

So interested in a lsz-1 ..but have some questions. First, how old should I consider purchasing a used one? What changes have been made to a new one to warrant a newer model? Is the monster wheel needed? I will be making new sails and canvas accessories. 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

You might want to ask this question on the Sailrite forum. I'd read through some of the threads there because I think I recall similar questions have been asked.

Sailrite Sewing Machines - Sailrite Forum - Page 1


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## mjf55 (May 1, 2007)

Thanks TS, I did find out what I was looking for as far as how old should you go. Sailrite recommends 4 years as that was when the last update went out 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk


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## glymroff (Apr 2, 2009)

Just an update:

Bought an lz1 sail rite. Every blog I've read said essentially the same thing. So I caved.
Also bought the bundle accessories and the magnetic guide. 

Now begins the work for the admiral 

Although I may do some as well. Hey it's like a new toy at Xmas .


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## heelangle (Dec 30, 2009)

Has anyone used any of the other Singer machines with success? Prices range from $99 - 499 on the net.

I just broke my old mechanical Singer and need a replacement for canvas, cushions and general repairs. I am not going to do any sail making. That I am going to leave to the experts.

Can you recommend any models?


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

What broke on your mechanical Singer? Might it be cheaper/easier to fix than to replace?

I have a lower end Pfaff Hobby that works nicely on cushions and lighter weight materials. It is easier to use (threading, bobbin winding, built in thread snipper all make it faster for me to use) so I use it until I need the power of the Sailrite machine. I leave my Sailrite machine adjusted for higher tension and pressure foot tension and the Pfaff adjusted for lighter fabrics.


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## gedaggett (Oct 21, 2008)

heelangle said:


> Has anyone used any of the other Singer machines with success? Prices range from $99 - 499 on the net.
> 
> I just broke my old mechanical Singer and need a replacement for canvas, cushions and general repairs. I am not going to do any sail making. That I am going to leave to the experts.
> 
> Can you recommend any models?


If you wanted a singer here are a couple that I saw in your area on the cheap.

The 301 and 401 machines are decent machines that are a little step up from the home machine. They can handle the thickness of the material pretty well and as are still somewhat compact. There are some other machines out there that would be good though best thing to do is see what you can find and then ask questions about specific models. Here are some CL listings.

Heavy Duty Singer 401A sewing machine with Carrying Case









Singer CG-550C commercial sewing machine


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## Ferretchaser (Jan 14, 2011)

hurricanehole said:


> Hi-thanks for doing this. I have a red sailrite machine and would like to know if I could take it to my moored boat and sew with it running off a small red honda generator, EU200i. If so that would push me over the edge in buying a small gen.


At the moment, our EU200i is running the full size fridge, Christmas decoration lights, two laptops, keeps the boats batteries charged and running the Sail Rite sewing machine. All on the economy setting and it is not even picking up the revs. Been doing that for 3 weeks now day in day out.

ATB

Michael


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

If you have room and the time to wait, sometimes a Singer 111W155 becomes available on craigslist. The 111W155 is an industrial compound walking-foot machine. My earlier post on compound walking-foot machines on this thread might be helpful.

The disadvantages include: used, likely heavily used; $500 might be about as good as you could do (I got one with a clutch motor for $325); probably not be equipped with a servo motor; no reverse.

Also, seeming lightly used Sailrite LS machines can sometimes be found for about $500 on craigslist.

Actually, trading off lack of reverse for compound-feed can be a good trade off. The most common use of reverse is back-tack to lock the stitch. Here's what old-time professional sewers did before reverse. When fabric management is not an issue, simply bury the needle, turn the fabric 180 degrees and sew over the seam to lock the stitch. Otherwise, with the needle up, raise the foot a bit, pull the fabric toward you about an inch, drop the foot and sew over the stitch to lock the stitch. Raising the foot slightly does not open the tension discs, and enough tension is retained on the needle thread that the thread does not need to be held.

Having said that, reverse is useful in other situations to help mitigate fabric management, such as sewing around a patch, especially in the middle of a large piece. Needing to turn the fabric a total of 360 degrees is a real hassle trying to get lots material under the arm. Instead, sew one side of the patch, bury the needle, turn the fabric 90 degrees counter-clockwise and sew the next side, bury the needle, turn the fabric 90 degrees clockwise and sew the third side in reverse, bury the needle, turn the material 90 degrees counter-clockwise and sew the final side.

In your search, you might also consider a Juki 562 or 563 (the 563 has a larger bobbin). The design is similar to the 111W and the quality seems just as good.


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## Missingyou (Aug 16, 2013)

I just dragged an old Juki LU 563 back from Hamilton Ontario, it's built like a tank. $500, which included a new servo motor. It went through two thick pieces of leather like butter. I plan to make a winter cover with it, among other things. It's a compound feed walking foot machine, but unfortunately not very portable. Lifting it and the table took two of us.


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

A Juki 563 in good condition with a servo motor for $500 is a real deal. Here's a refurbished one for $1265.

Refurbished Juki LU-563 on Stand

Send me a PM if you'd like a good copy of the user manual and/or parts manual in pdf form.

Also, you might be interested in chapter 4, _Sewing Machine Repair_, of the following link that states.

"Your shop may have the Consew Model 225, the Juki LU-562, or the Singer Model 111 W 155 sewing machine. These three sewing machines are essentially identical, and all specifications and instructions are the same for all three sewing machines. For simplicity we will use the Singer 111 W 155 as a model for all three sewing machines."

The juki 562 and 563 are essentially the same except that the 563 has a large bobbin. The manual fails to mention that the Juki has reverse.

http://navybmr.com/study material2/NAVEDTRA 14217.pdf


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## amphicar (Mar 13, 2014)

Hi I am new to this forum .
I bought a Juki 563 today and can not find a proper copy online 
I tried to PM you but because I am a new member it is impossible to do.
Can you help me with a copy ?
Peter


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## Missingyou (Aug 16, 2013)

I have the manual for the 563 and 563N as well. Can send if you like.


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## amphicar (Mar 13, 2014)

Brian,
I have send you an email , please send it to me

thanks Peter


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## Multihullgirl (Dec 2, 2010)

I used to and sometimes still do work in a canvas house, and I do a sideline biz repairing sails and fabricating canvas stuff. (disclaimer)

There are quite adequate machines available for the $300 or maybe even less range. These machines are not walking foot. They are regularly used in sail and canvas fabrication houses. ex: Schurr Sails in Pensacola FL has something like five P138s in-house.

I refer to the PFAFF 130 and the PFAFF 138.

The 130 is a small machine, and it has zag. Very portable. The 130 will sew anything from silk to sails. You can find these for anywhere from next to nothing to the $250 range. There is a restorer on eBay who commands high prices but these are restored machines. Hand cranks are available for the P130. My 130 will go on the boat with me.

The 138 is larger, more of a dedicated industrial machine, it also has zag. I have had more trouble with lighter cloth with my 138 but that may be on my end. I've seen these from $300 on up to about $800. The 138 has a longer throat area which makes it easier to use for larger items. It is heavy, though, not so portable as the 130

I have hot-rodded both my machines by adding extra springs to the pressor foot shaft, and I've installed more aggressive-toothed feed dogs. In the shop, I learned how to help the cloth along by pulling it, you learn with some practice how to help feed your machine.

Sailmaker's Supply, where I did work, carries not only notions and fabric, but also a very nice Consew DC servo motor (she can get all sorts of stuff, just ask). I'm addicted to the servo motor. It's got a smoother acceleration, and you can control its speed without having to install small pulleys (like on a big 1/2-horse motor), and it's DC so I should think I can set it up for the boat, nevertheless this little motor is light and tiny, it's really the shizzle.

My travelling rig is the Pfaff 130 with the Consew servo. Light, powerful, quality.


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