# How to spruce up molded in non-skid deck???



## SiXeVeN (Jul 7, 2007)

Sorry, i'm sure the is a newbie question...

Almost my entire topside is a molded in non-skid pattern. The problem is that the gel coat is getting really chalky and nasty (mildew, etc). How do you clean up, renew, revibe, etc. that surface.

I have tried to buff it out with rubbing compound... 

I tried to scrub it out with a heavy plastic brush on a rotary drill...

I tried to chemically strip it...

The problem is that there is no way to get into the little low spots in the non-skid pattern. All you end up doing is scubbing, sanding, treating, the proud points between the low areas.

An attempt to paint it looked like crap...

When it was new it looked great and could be cleaned with a simple brush. I solved the wax issue with a spray variety that minimized build up in the low spots. However, after years of Florida UV, the gel coat has oxidized and it is so chalky and porous that it absorbes dirt and looks terrible.

I would think painting would be the answer but how do you prep/clean the surface? How do you paint it without filling all the low spots with paint while the proud areas barely get coated (trust me it looks like crap)

AAAAAAaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh      

Any advice would be appreciated.


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

I'm fighting more or less the same issue with my new 30 foot boat. Spent time today. StarBright non-skid deck cleaner didn't do much. Nor did the Pine boat soap. There was a mold killer product that I sprayed on that helped a little, but not too much. I'm going to try a power washr next but I am not too optimistic.


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## SiXeVeN (Jul 7, 2007)

The power washer is the best i've found. The problem is that it will stay clean for maybe a week until the dirt/mold returns. The basic issue is that the gel coat is highly oxidized and porous. You can clean it all you want but if you can't seal it or polish it.... your screwed. It will be constantly dirty.

Like I said, I tried paint but because you can't get the pits of the molded non-skid clean or sanded, the paint doesn't stick well. Plus, it looks bad as the paint pools into some of the low spots but not all of them so it makes the non-skid surface look irregular and sloppy. 

Hopefully someone will chime in with some helpful advice?


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## TackBoston (Oct 11, 2008)

I too would recommend a power wash, but follow it up with an application of Woody Wax Fiberglass & Non-skid Deck Wax. You spray it onto your scrub brush and apply to a wet deck. It's very slipper when it first goes on, but it dries into a wax sealer. This will make it easier to clean the next time around, so you can just scrub it as usual.


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## Perithead (Nov 16, 2007)

Thats a good question, I am in a very simular situation with my project boat. I have to paint the "molded" non skid but I dont want to loose the non skid quality or have some of the holes filled and it be sloppy.

Someone better chime in or I will just end up asking the question agian in about a week.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

SiXeVeN said:


> ...Almost my entire topside is a molded in non-skid pattern...


A gentle lesson on terminology for you here... the "topsides" of a boat is the area between the waterline and the deck edge - ie the surfaces of the hull itself above the waterline. I doubt that that is in nonskid!

You are, of course, referring to the *deck*.

Powerwashing and a good stiff brush generally works best, but it's always difficult to get the grime/mildew/grunge out of the deepest parts - which you'll need to do even if you plan to paint over it. You do need to be cautious that you don't fill the nonskid pattern and make it ineffective.

If you do paint, adding a grit (sand, walnut shells, or a more commercial product like "Grip-tex) will help. Getting a uniform appearance takes some practice.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

sand it flat and paint... lots of work but it is the only option other than a glue-on deck product for an older boat. I had really good luck with Interlux Interdeck. Still looks great after two years. It wasn't terribly difficult or expensive as far as boat projects go. The most time consuming and difficult part was removing and then replacing every piece of deck hardware.


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## Banshi (Jul 4, 2007)

I painted mine and I did not have any problems with "pooling" paint. I used interdex nonskid and put it on with a roller cutting in at the edges where the color changed with a brush. If the paint is pooling your putting to much on at a time. It took two coats on mine. The moulded non skid areas a giege and the flat areas ( I used non skid paint in these areas as well) are white. This is probably the best picture I have.........but you can clearly see the moulded non skid is still there and the deck is far grippier now...........


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## Perithead (Nov 16, 2007)

Wow, that is a nice paint job and a good picture. Thanks for letting us know how it went.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

Banshi  

That looks great if you could give a bit of detail on the prep work you did it would be great


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## Pamlicotraveler (Aug 13, 2006)

I recommend Flood's Penetrol, a low viscosity penetrating oil. It works like Armor-all on a car. Your deck needs to be clean first, and make sure its going to have a while to dry and don't put it on too thick...very thin layer with a rag, wipe off surplus after 2-5 minutes, before it gets tacky...and your boat will shine until you have to do it again. If it's too thick it will run after it dries and looks like spilled varnish and can attract dirt.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Banshi said:


> I painted mine and I did not have any problems with "pooling" paint. I used interdex nonskid and put it on with a roller cutting in at the edges where the color changed with a brush. If the paint is pooling your putting to much on at a time. It took two coats on mine. The moulded non skid areas a giege and the flat areas ( I used non skid paint in these areas as well) are white. This is probably the best picture I have.........but you can clearly see the moulded non skid is still there and the deck is far grippier now...........


Good job. Another satisfied Interdex user.. Did you sand your deck at all? I pretty much annihilated by molded non-skid, but that was only to removed the last guys paint attempt. It says it sticks to properly de-greased gel-coat. I would bet Banshi here used a drill attachment paint mixer. I did a couple small sections hand stirring that looked like crap. Stir stir stir!!!


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

We used Interdeck on our cockpit sole after removing aged glue-on non skid which left smooth gel coat behind. Once the glue residue was scraped away a light sanding was all we did. Two seasons later it looks good and grips well.


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## SiXeVeN (Jul 7, 2007)

> A gentle lesson on terminology for you here... the "topsides" of a boat is the area between the waterline and the deck edge - ie the surfaces of the hull itself above the waterline.


I thought that was Freeboard. I thought topsides was anything above the hull deck seam or above the gunwale. Anyway, you are correct. I should have just said deck. 

Banshi, that looks very nice. It does appear that we may have a different type of molded non-skid. Mine is almost like mini diamonds on end all compressed together. Probably 1/4" deep and rather pointed on top. Actually can be uncomfortable with bare feet.

When I attempted to paint it, the paint tended to level itself into the recesses of the non-skid and expose the points. Plus each little recess between the points ends up with a different level of paint so I looks rather sloppy. Perhaps as suggested I should just sand out the texture and paint it with interdex.


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## Banshi (Jul 4, 2007)

Interdeck is pretty thick, if you have not tried rolling it I would give it a try before I went to the trouble of sanding it down unless of course you just wanted to go ahead and get rid of the diamond points anyways. A orbital pad sander with some 80 grit paper would probably make quick work of it. Don't forget to clean the surface with some sort of form release solvent.


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## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

Pamlicotraveler said:


> I recommend Flood's Penetrol, a low viscosity penetrating oil. It works like Armor-all on a car. Your deck needs to be clean first, and make sure its going to have a while to dry and don't put it on too thick...very thin layer with a rag, wipe off surplus after 2-5 minutes, before it gets tacky...and your boat will shine until you have to do it again. If it's too thick it will run after it dries and looks like spilled varnish and can attract dirt.


Are you using the penetrol for cleaning or for finish coat? I think you are saying you use it for a finish coat but I'd like to be sure.

I'm having trouble getting diesel spot stains out of the non skid.


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## heinzir (Jul 25, 2000)

I painted my non-skid areas with Durabak 2 years ago and am happy with the results. It is very easy to apply, the color is uniform, and the traction is fantastic. It goes on thick and easily fills small cracks and chips.






Durabak Company; Truck Bed, Marine, Boat Ship Industrial & Workplace Non-Skid Coatings.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

A caution on Penetrol (not a cleaner, btw) - it's extremely effective at "restoring" chalky gelcoats, esp the deeper colours.. but it's temporary and makes subsequent painting difficult. All traces of it must be removed prior to painting,- it does "penetrate" the surface so it's difficult to know for certain it's all gone - and could lead to unsatisfactory results with the new coatings.

Heinzir: Pretty shippy little boat!! Nice.


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## Wayne25 (Jul 26, 2006)

I second the power washing and Woody Wax. Its worth a try and you can always remove the wax and paint it if it doesn't meet your satisfaction. We use it on my cousin's fishing boat and it keeps the non skid looking new. Easy to apply, follow directions.
I have used Penetrol on chalked gel coat. Looks ok when first done, but it doesn't last long and is a pain to remove.


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## Pamlicotraveler (Aug 13, 2006)

xort said:


> Are you using the penetrol for cleaning or for finish coat? I think you are saying you use it for a finish coat but I'd like to be sure.
> 
> I'm having trouble getting diesel spot stains out of the non skid.


No...It's definitely not a cleaner. It has just been the only thing I have found that would clear up the chalkiness on our 20 year old nonskid and make it look glossy again. It is temporary, but so is a cleaner if you think about it.


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## retclt (Nov 7, 2006)

I bought a portable sand blaster for a previous boat that worked really well. It was great for cleaning out the old paint in the non skid. I use it for all kinds of stuff now.

They don't make mine any more but it was similar to this one . . .

Northern Industrial Abrasive Blaster with FREE U.S. Patented Deadman Handle &#151; 5-Gallons | Portable Abrasive Blasters | Northern Tool + Equipment

.


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## [email protected] (Apr 13, 2006)

On my thirty year old boat, I use a household product available in most grocery stores tilex mildew remover, in a spray bottle I do 3 steps . 1 pressure wash the decks well, and let completely dry.2spray one area with tilex , scrub nonskid with a stiff deck brush leave till almost dry then pressure wash off. works for me Ole


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## SiXeVeN (Jul 7, 2007)

Sandblasting... hmmm. That might actually work. Messy but would get into all those little pits and get them scrubbed out. I could then powerwash out the grit and prime/paint. I'll have to look into that.

BTW, I called a local boat painter and he said he would have to sand flat the molded in non-skid and then paint it with Interdex. Also said it would be major $$$ (of course )

I liked this molded in nonskid when the boat was new but now it is a huge PITA!!!


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## maccauley123 (Sep 2, 2004)

I am taking a similar approach to heinzir. He is using Durabak which I looked at but decided to go with Kiwi Grip. I have heard great reviews and hoping for good results. Good cleaning, lots of taping and then just put it down.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

SiXeVeN said:


> Sandblasting... hmmm. That might actually work.


True sandblasting is a bit harsh... and potentially damaging. Most use soda blasting as a more controlled way of removal, and even that can remove gelcoat. Retclt's sandblaster setup could probably do it, just use a gentler medium. At work we use a glass beader to clean parts - another "gentle" sandblaster application.

If you use a "sandblaster" I'd practice at a distance and see how effective it is and whether or not you actually remove material, rather than just dirt and grime.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I think pressure washing is far safer than any type of material blasting.


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

One of our neighbors in the boatyard had to recore his entire deck. When done, he put treadmaster down as non-skid. It's a little pricey, but glued down easy and looked great. He used a color similar to the pain Banshi used.


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## easygoing (Aug 9, 2008)

I've the same problem. I was told to use cool seal compound like used on a roof of a house trailer. I will let you know if it works and what it looks like.LOL


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## retclt (Nov 7, 2006)

Faster said:


> True sandblasting is a bit harsh... and potentially damaging. Most use soda blasting as a more controlled way of removal, and even that can remove gelcoat. Retclt's sandblaster setup could probably do it, just use a gentler medium. At work we use a glass beader to clean parts - another "gentle" sandblaster application.
> 
> If you use a "sandblaster" I'd practice at a distance and see how effective it is and whether or not you actually remove material, rather than just dirt and grime.


You're right Faster. Sand blasting can be harsh if you aren't smart about it. I'm speaking from my own experience only. You can use as low or high a pressure as you want. I had deep molded in nonskid and when using 40psi and fine playground sand (3 bucks a 40lb bag) I had an incredibly clean paint removal with no harm to the original 40 year old finish underneath. It was also so fast and easy a cave man could do it.

Soda blasting is very popular lately. If I ever do it again I'll probably go that route. The key is to use the finest media you can find. I sifted my playground sand for the occasional larger pebble. I bought a can of glass bead (so fine it feels cool when you stick your fingers into it) for cleaning old metal parts, spark plugs etc. The blaster is a fun little toy . . . and a back saver.

Forgot to add . . . . . . . the sandblasted nonskid was the perfect prep for paint.


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## pegasus1457 (Apr 14, 2002)

*more on KiwiGrip*

I recently posted to Buying A Boat forum with details on the Kiwi Grip product:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/buying-boat/47524-dilema-1989-pearson-31-2-a.html

The post includes a link to a photo site with a deck completely done with this product. Take a look.


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## SailingAlien (May 23, 2007)

*To Paint or Apply Chemical?*

What made you decide to paint instead of going with Marine Penetrol, Interlux of any of the other options? We have a '69 Morgan that is oxidized from and orginally very modly and dirty. We pressure washed her and that helped a lot but I'd like to get the shine back on her - and some protection. Right now she looks chalky though very white. I'm not intersted in changing her color. I just want to improve her appearence and improve the gelcoats ability to fight off mold.



Banshi said:


> I painted mine and I did not have any problems with "pooling" paint. I used interdex nonskid and put it on with a roller cutting in at the edges where the color changed with a brush. If the paint is pooling your putting to much on at a time. It took two coats on mine. The moulded non skid areas a giege and the flat areas ( I used non skid paint in these areas as well) are white. This is probably the best picture I have.........but you can clearly see the moulded non skid is still there and the deck is far grippier now...........


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