# How to cut stainless steel railing



## bratzcpa (Oct 18, 2011)

I'm working on building a frame on which to mount my 3 solar panels. The design phase is working out well. I'm planning to use the premade corner, rail, hinge fittings.

But . . . what's the best way to cut the 1" SS rail tubing to the correct length? My choices include, hack saw, powdered Sawzall, a plumbers tubing cutter (where you tighten the wheel as you rotate the device around the pipe), electric grinder with a cutting wheel, or something else???

This SS rail stuff is really tough. Any words of wisdom out there?

thx,


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## smackdaddy (Aug 13, 2008)

I just did this and used a tube/pipe cutter. Very accurate, very simple, very smooth...no power required.


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

You might get 2 cuts using a plumber's pipe cutter before it is trash. There are similar cutters the pros use for the job you are doing. I normally mask the pipe, use a hack saw, then dress it with a file or mini grinder. The tape will protect against the blade drifting and damaging the finish around the cut. You should plan on polishing also to remove residual rusting potential on the cut.


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## VallelyJ (Nov 21, 2008)

I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel specifically made for SS. Hardware stores or welding supply stores should have the wheels. You can use the same tool with a grinding wheel to clean up the burrs.
JV


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## aloof (Dec 21, 2014)

Fine tooth hacksaw in a miter box. Cut slow and carefully like a craftsman, not like a boatyard hacker.


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## fryewe (Dec 4, 2004)

Sometimes the compression of the tubing cutter will cause the tubing to become oval at the cut which makes fitting installation on the tube very difficult. When using a tubing cutter, make small adjustments in the depth of cut.


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## ReefMagnet (May 8, 2008)

Here's a tip to cut the ends perfectly square: wrap some thick paper around the tube so that it's straight edge aligns at the cut. Paper doesn't stretch so this will give you a perfect square line. 

As for cutting, a 4" angle grinder with 1mm (0.040") thick metal cutting disk cannot be beat. Don't forget to allow for the kerf - the length lost by the width of the cut - when marking the cut line.


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## mbianka (Sep 19, 2014)

When I was fabricating my solar bimini I used a small plumbers pipe cutter from Home Depot. I only needed to do two cuts but, it worked fine. 
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: SOLAR BIMINI PART FOUR: Locating and trimming the rear frame
You could also buy extra blades if your project requires a lot of cuts.


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## cruisingdream (Feb 7, 2007)

There you have it, use something different for every cut & report back what works best.


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

Wait!
Take two fittings like those used to hold two struts together on a Bimini. Slide them in place, lock them down spaced just right for a fine hack saw blade and saw away. Dress the outside of the ends with a file and the insides with a round file.
You'll get very accurate, perfectly square cuts.
Also, a good bike shop will have a cutting guide that clamps onto 1- 1 1/2 OD.
John


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## bratzcpa (Oct 18, 2011)

thanks for the awesome ideas.

I am going to be working on this while we motor down the ICW for endless hours. It'll give me something to do and get a project done at the same.

Based on that, I think I'll try the tubing cutter (with some extra wheels along just in case). 

hmm, just had another thought. I wonder if a dremel tool would work? I could easily power that with my inverter??


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## bvander66 (Sep 30, 2007)

Have a rotozip anduse the metal cutoff wheell


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Working _while under way_??

Then I'd definitely think twice about the tubing cutter, least likely to be moving around while you work. They DO come in different qualities, "home" versus "pro" and guess which is made of harder steel? Also, some cutting oil or even motor oil will help keep it sharp while at work.

And I'd pick up a couple of round and flat files, in case the edges need a little finessing.

If you use a hacksaw, consider a tungsten carbide blade. They cut a wide slot, compared to a fine metal blade, but they really don't care how hard the tubing is, they just chew through it.


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## captain jack (May 5, 2013)

bratzcpa said:


> I'm working on building a frame on which to mount my 3 solar panels. The design phase is working out well. I'm planning to use the premade corner, rail, hinge fittings.
> 
> But . . . what's the best way to cut the 1" SS rail tubing to the correct length? My choices include, hack saw, powdered Sawzall, a plumbers tubing cutter (where you tighten the wheel as you rotate the device around the pipe), electric grinder with a cutting wheel, or something else???
> 
> ...


a tubing cutter can do ok, although, it will often indent the metal around the cut.

a sawzall with a steel cutting blade works but most stainless is very hard and wears blades out fast. that can get pricey. my favorite is an air powered die grinder with a cut off wheel. if you know what you are doing, it's got great control, doesn't dent the metal, ad it outlasts a saw blade. *one word of caution. the steel will get hot at the point of cut. use leather gloves and let the steel cool before handling it for further work. *


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## captain jack (May 5, 2013)

bratzcpa said:


> thanks for the awesome ideas.
> 
> I am going to be working on this while we motor down the ICW for endless hours. It'll give me something to do and get a project done at the same.
> 
> ...


dremel tool cut off wheels tend to break easily and the tools don't tend to have the grunt of rpm's for heavy work. that's why i said an air powered die grinder. but, then, i didn't realize you were doing it while under way.

that being the case, you really have to watch using any kind of power tool. sawzalls and cut off wheels throw very hot bits of metal all over the place. fiberglass is plastic. plastic burns and melts. it would suck having a bunch of burnt in dots all over your cockpit.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

I probably do 100+ tubing cuts per year and use a Ridgid pipe cutter with heavy duty SS capable cutting wheels. This is the plumbing grade Ridgid, from a plumbing supply house, not the cheap stuff from Home Depot. I get about 20-25 cuts per wheel.


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## PorFin (Sep 10, 2007)

Something to keep in mind is that stainless gets work hardened -- if it gets hot, it will get hard. Very similar to tempering steel (getting it hot, then quenching it in oil.) This is why when drilling stainless, you want to go with a really hard bit, a pretty slow drill speed, lots of water, and firm but steady pressure.

Going at stainless with a high speed blade like a sawzall, roto-zip, or the like is going to make life more difficult.

In other words, be the tortoise and not the hare...


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## Group9 (Oct 3, 2010)

smackdaddy said:


> I just did this and used a tube/pipe cutter. Very accurate, very simple, very smooth...no power required.


I've done it several times that way, too. So easy, it's actually hard to believe. I've done it with a hacksaw, too and that's not nearly as easy.


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## VallelyJ (Nov 21, 2008)

You're using fittings for the corners, etc. That means your cut-off ends need to be free of burrs that would interfere with the fit, but the ends don't have to be perfectly square. The sockets are about an inch deep. A sixteenth or so of cant in the end will be meaningless. I'm all for being able to make square, neat cuts in any material when necessary. It's a valuable skill. I'm also a fan of getting the freaking job done and not obsessing over irrelevant details. There's very good advice here for making a good square cut where a square cut is necessary. If you're going to stick the end into a socket, then whether you use a hack saw, an angle grinder, a tubing cutter, don't let perfection be the enemy of the good. Stop obsessing and just cut the damn thing off and move on.


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

Maine Sail said:


> I probably do 100+ tubing cuts per year and use a Ridgid pipe cutter with heavy duty SS capable cutting wheels. This is the plumbing grade Ridgid, from a plumbing supply house, not the cheap stuff from Home Depot. I get about 20-25 cuts per wheel.


Professionals always have the right tool for every job. If they need it once they might rent or borrow it, if they need it more often they buy it. Finesse may be secondary when the poop hits the fan, but a craftsman should execute each job with recognizable pride, and get the cuts right, it's their personal trademark - IMHO


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

rugosa said:


> Professionals always have the right tool for every job. If they need it once they might rent or borrow it, if they need it more often they buy it. Finesse may be secondary when the poop hits the fan, but a craftsman should execute each job with recognizable pride, and get the cuts right, it's their personal trademark - IMHO


It's not just about being professional it also saves my customers money. I can cut a 1" .065 wall SS tube in about 30-45 seconds with no clean up & no filing of rough edges etc.. I can also make cuts precisely and repeatably to measured insert depth.

There were ten or twelve cuts stiffening this bimini to accept solar panels. Imagine 10-12 cuts all with de-burring and clean up..... Instead I was able to make those cuts in minimal time with virtually no clean up... The right tools for the job pay for themselves...









The same can be said for Weld-Mount a product I use regularly. I actually had one customer complain at the cost of the studs, mixing tips and two part adhesive. These "costs" saved him multiple hours of labor which he failed to calculate and actually netted him a savings of well over $100.00. Even though the price of the product may _appear_ steep it is a cost saver in the long run....


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

Would any of the Weld-Mount products be suitable for installing recessed acrylic fixed ports, like for C & C retrofit? The short cure time would avoid need to build temporary jigs to hold in place.


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

Maine Sail,
Just as a point if interest, how much does your pipe cutter cost? My suggestion to use a hack saw and the slides as a guide is from the premise that one has those items already onboard and you don't have to carry specialty tools around for one time uses. For sure the home supply store cutters are less that worthless and might even cost you a pipe or two.
For what it is worth, I think a square cut is important as when the pipe sits squarely in the end fitting it will be much more solid and allow the set screws to work properly. Also, the inside of the pipe will require dressing after using a pipe cutter as it is almost inevitable that some time down the road some one is going to put their finger in there and draw blood. You wouldn't think so, but my experience with steering tubes on bicycles is just that. So my rule was always dress a cut.
John
P.s. Do you ever use glue in lieu of the set screws?


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Oh, come on guys. let's stop d*cking around with shadetree mechanics tools and start discussing the real proper choice for cutting stainless tubing quickly and cleanly.

You've got waterjet, laser, and plasma.

Rip out the engine, stick in a proper genset, install the proper tool where the helm used to be.

Now the only question, is the comparative merits of the three REAL proper tools.


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

"You've got waterjet, laser, and plasma." You left out shaped plastic explosive charges.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

I used a heavy-duty pipe/tubing cutter that I purchased at Home Depot. I've cut lots of 1-inch, heavy gauge stainless with it and it has held up for 5 years. Cost $29.95 when I purchased it, and I believe the price is still the same. 

Gary


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## JimMcGee (Jun 23, 2005)

Can anyone recommend a good source for stainless tubing and fittings?


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## __floater__ (Nov 14, 2014)

A tubing cutter would have to be specifically designed for SS with extra wheels opposite the cutting wheel to keep the cutter on track, though the tubing used for your rail may be too thick for even the best cutter.

The quickest would be a grinder with a cutting disc, but you will risk the chance of discoloring the tubing with heat generated by the wheel. It can he hard to remove the discoloration without a lot of elbow grease.

A sawzall is quite difficult to keep on track in my opinion. They seem to like to wander, especially in hard(er) materials.

A hacksaw with a good quality bi-metal blade and a 32 pitch would be the way to go. Mask off the area with one layer of tape so you can make a good clear mark to follow. A drop of light oil every 5 or 10 saw strokes will make life a lot easier. A fine file will knock off the burr after you're through.

Whichever way you decide to go, remember, measure twice, cut once. 
Good luck.


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

JimMcGee said:


> Can anyone recommend a good source for stainless tubing and fittings?


I found a supplier in Knoxville willing to sell me 1 inch OD, .065 thick wall 
304/304L at $3.25 per ft and 316/316L at $3.90 per ft. The down side is the length is 24 feet. They were found by googling stainless steel suppliers then emailing them my requirements. Pretty sure the prices they quoted are wholesale.


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## smackdaddy (Aug 13, 2008)

JimMcGee said:


> Can anyone recommend a good source for stainless tubing and fittings?


I got my tubing from Grainger. Fittings on eBay from Aurora Canvas.

Pretty cheap. And it seems to be holding up well.


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## bratzcpa (Oct 18, 2011)

I have ordered most of the fittings from this place. Good prices and (so far), I've been pleased with all of the various things I have ordered from them over the years.

They just have a simple website. If you get on their mailing list, they send email "deals" of 20% approximately every other month.

Marine Part Depot


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

I used them as well to purchase the parts for my solar panel supports.

Gary


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## Group9 (Oct 3, 2010)

travlineasy said:


> I used them as well to purchase the parts for my solar panel supports.
> 
> Gary


That's where I did most of tube cutting. I built my solar panel frame out of one inch stainless steel tubing. I cut the first couple of times using a hacksaw blade in my saws-all. I decided there had to better way and remembered I had a pipe cutter that I think I inherited. It was old and rusty, and didn't look like it would work to me, but it went through that pipe so quick I couldn't believe it.

I still use it every time I need to build something out of tubing and it's still using the blade it had on it when I first used it and still works great. It does seem to put a tiny, tiny taper on the ends of the tubing but I don't see how that hurts anything for what I am using it for.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Actually, that tiny taper probably makes it easier to insert the tubing into the fittings.

All the best,

Gary


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