# Hello! im trying to reach 10 posts to post a link



## fireblade274 (Sep 9, 2018)

Hi! Im new here, in the market for a small sailboat to get started. Looking at a Cal 28, trying to post a link to get advice on a repair. Trying to get those 10 posts in without sounding TOO desperate lol. Ill be sailing in the Chesapeake.


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## Johney2554 (Sep 8, 2018)

I'm new also and found help with boat questions right away I think your in the right place


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

Hello,
Say hello back and your at 2.


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## fireblade274 (Sep 9, 2018)

well I managed to reach my 10 already, but im having trouble finding the thread i posted first.. It said it would appear after approval by a mod, but its been almost 24 hours and I still dont see it


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## boatpoker (Jul 21, 2008)

Welcome to the forum


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

What's your question?


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## fireblade274 (Sep 9, 2018)

How can I repair this rotted wood on part of the bulkhead? https://www.dropbox.com/s/maxjkasp7s9jjeo/IMG_3128.MOV?dl=0

Is 500$, for a mahogany/teak plank, a multi tool, epoxy, fiberglass sheets, 3-7 days of full time work on it, unrealistic or not?


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## jephotog (Feb 25, 2002)

If it takes $1000 and 14 days can you still afford it? I am not saying that it will but you also asked about a survey, not sure you can afford one. You should add up all the costs you can see and be realistic what it will really cost to get this boat in the shape you want. How is the motor, sails? A $2,500 boat can easily cost $5,000 or more.


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## midwesterner (Dec 14, 2015)

fireblade274 said:


> How can I repair this rotted wood on part of the bulkhead?


You mentioned in your video an idea of a way to keep tension on the mast when you remove the port chain plate. You can't sink a helix and support it on one side that way. Your starboard side would be tensioned from the deck and your port side from a helix on the ground you would end up pulling your boat off the stands and toppling it. Most people just attach one of the halyards to a cleat and tension it that way. Then you can tie the shroud to a cleat and well.


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## fireblade274 (Sep 9, 2018)

Motor is an Atomic 4 engine with six years usage after major overhaul replacing all moving parts, he also, "installed a Moyer Marine "short block" which replaced all the moving parts of the engine."

I've seen the sails, the are in immaculate condition, still have a new-like color to them, zero UV damage, per my buddy who owns a flying scott who went with me said

anything well past 500$ would not be worth it to me, depending on what I can get the boat for. Your right its very possible I cant afford a survey; when does a survey not make sense? 1000$ boat? 5000$ boat? Idk, I havent ruled it out. If the bulk head is the only major thing preventing it from sailing across the bay, im game. Im going to see it again with an old family friend whos been sailing the bay for decades, hes been my thumbs-up/thumbs down guy, if you will, for the boats ive seen so far. 

He brought up the survey possiblity, rightfully citing that its generally a good idea to get a survey done on a used boat. But when do i decide if a survey is worth it do me? I've a second mind to accept a bit of risk going on only what he can see, without a moisture meter (but the deck is apparently not cored and straight glass?) and just going to town on replacing that part of the bulkhead

Also thinking about moving this discussion to a different section


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## tschmidty (Sep 25, 2008)

It's definitely a balance issue on a "cheap" boat, so I'll leave that decision to you. The thing is it is good insurance usually since they can probably point out problems you may not see.

As far as the repair, it's definitely DIY doable. Here are a few thoughts

1. If the port side is bad so is the starboard plan on doing both.

2. Marine plywood, $110 or so, epoxy $100 or so, fiberglass $20, time priceless. It doesn't have to be expensive if you have decent wood working skills and tools. But it really needs to be done right, since that bulkhead is holding your mast up. I would soak the heck out of it with epoxy, especially the end grains on top, and I would also really soak the grains where you drill holes to mount the chainplate and wherever else it is drilled through which will strengthen the end grain there. If it is tabbed to the cabin top, I'd consider putting a layer of cloth over the top before tabbing to prevent any water intrusion at the top since those chainplates will leak.

3. Cost wise, sit down and think about everything you need to do. Does it need bottom paint now? When does it need it next? Any other things need to be fixed to go sailing? What is the rest of the rigging look like? 

Good luck.


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

A survey doesn't just tell what a boat has, it also tells what a boat needs. The cost of a survey can make a big difference in assessing if the boat will require more than it is worth. There might be other boats available that might cost a bit more, but save you money in what it will cost to get it seaworthy. This boat looks like it may need some other work. (have you run the engine?). 

The bulkhead repair is doable, but is not a minor task. Yes, look at both sides, and yes, take the chainplates off. 

Spend some internet time looking to find a class association that can talk with you about this particular boat. What kind of boat is it? Only you can decide if this is the right balance of cost vs project.


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## fireblade274 (Sep 9, 2018)

the engine was completely rebuilt in 2007 and runs currently, could probably use an oil and filter change after being on hard for 3 years but the guy says its only had 6 years of running time since major overhaul


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

Fire, I not sure I understand. Did you acturally run the engine yourself?


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## Donna_F (Nov 7, 2005)

I don’t mean to offend, but if you can’t afford a survey as you say, how can you afford the upkeep of a 28 foot boat? The purchase price is only the beginning of your expenses. Even if you get through the initial repairs that you’ve mentioned, there will be more. It’s a boat.

Maybe start smaller?


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

I think you need to realize that port side bulkhead is probably tied into the lockers that run aft of it, and whatever is on the forward side of it. Could be two long days just to get it all out without doing damage to anything else, and the chainplate will have to be removed to make room to work. 

There's also some black in the wood above the starboard side of the bulkhead, which would indicate moisture damage in the overhead, which means possibly in the deck and the mast compression post. You'd have to check for that, I just saw the dark areas as a blur going by.

"Simple" marine ply will never match the interior woodwork. No problem if you're planning to paint it over, but a matching wood veneer would be pricey. There's also a funny thing about water damage. As you get one piece out, you find out the next piece below it also has been damaged, so there's MORE where you can't see it--until you've gotten the next piece out.

Also, not having a balsa cored deck doesn't mean the deck isn't cored. It may be solid fiberglass or plastic core, but the odds are it is plywood cored if it isn't balsa. Plywood can still rot, so you need to check the deck and fittings.

That's part of what a survey would do, if you could find a competent surveyor. You could be looking at five or ten grand in hazmat landfill and haulage fees, to take the boat away if you can't fix it up. So yes, you can actually lose more than the purchase price of a boat.

But that's worst case.

You say the sails look good: New sails usually have a plastic resin coating on them. If the coating is worn off, they start to stretch out from their intending shape. They can still LOOK great for a couple of years after the resin is gone, but they may be stretched out of shape. Hard to tell without seeing how the boat sails, or at least hoisting them to see what shape they hang in.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

From the comments on the video, its pretty clear that you don't fully understand how boats are built. To do even a half way decent job of it the chainplate needs to come out. That's not a big deal. You will need to simply tie off the mast to deck hardware on either side while the shrouds and chainplates aren't tensioned. 

For the record, depending on the year Cal's of that era have either plywood cored decks or masonite cored decks, both of which are more rot prone than Balsa. They are notorious for core rot. 

Back to the rotten bulkhead repair.....The fiberglass tabbing that you say is in good shape, will need to come out since that is the connection between the bulkhead and the hull. If there is rot in the wood backing block, then there is rot in the bulkhead, and that rot extends behind the tabbing. Plus what you can see is probably the tip of the iceberg. A proper fix will require cutting away part of the bulkhead and splicing in a new piece in a structural manner. Depending on how the boat was built, you would then need to either tab (build up a fiberglass fillet) the bulkhead into the hull, or first install the backing block and then the tab both the backing block and bulkhead into the hull. If this ties into cabinetry, that may need to be removed and reinstalled. Its all doable, but you need to know what you are doing and your comments suggest that you don't. Materials wise you are probably looking at well less than $1,000 and three weeks of work to get back to something structural, but that would not be full time work. 

That boat needs bottom paint way more than it needs to be polished. 

Jus' Say'n,
Jeff


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## GeorgeB (Dec 30, 2004)

Fireblade, I concur with Jeff that he could do it in three weeks (I imagine that his truck carries a boatyard's worth of tools in the back). I, on the other hand look at this as a complete off season project. That bulkhead distributes the load from the shrouds across the deck and to the mast. replacing merely a "strip" will compromise the integrity of that bulkhead. The fiberglass you were tapping on is tabbing that ties the bulkhead into the hull. You will have to remove the entire bulkhead and replace. The good news is it is regular marine plywood with a mahogany veneer. You will also need to get some mahogany for the stiffener strip. The scary things are what you didn't show. The plywood core in the deck is definitely rotted and needs replacing. You will need to figure out how far the moisture extends then cut out the deck skin, replace the wood, dry it out, epoxy and vacuum bag. Lot of work, but it can be done. I have a good friend who actively races his Cal 28 so I can ask him any specific questions you might have. Good luck, and next time you video, go slower and longer. I needed to see the bulkhead from inside the head area for example.


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