# Install anchor chain markers



## saillessinseattle (Sep 27, 2011)

Is there a trick or an easier way than pulling out all the chain from the locker and laying that out on the dock? Say you have 300ft of 1/2 inch chain and you want to mark the whole chain. How about pulling the boat so the rollers are over the dock so you can use the windlass? I have never dealt with this much chain.


----------



## PhilipStevens (Mar 24, 2002)

saillessinseattle said:


> Is there a trick or an easier way than pulling out all the chain from the locker and laying that out on the dock? Say you have 300ft of 1/2 inch chain and you want to mark the whole chain. How about pulling the boat so the rollers are over the dock so you can use the windlass? I have never dealt with this much chain.


I have done just that on the pontoons of a dock.

I pulled the chain out to 12metre lengths (chart depths are usually in metres), bringing the next length alongside the previous length. It was easier to mark the chain in 3meter marks, so that when dropped, I would have a better idea of how much to let out with relation to the depth.

I marked the chain with dayglo paint at one link as the mark for the first 3metres, two links for the marks for the 2nd 3metres and so on. I only have 40metres of chain, so only marked up to 9 marks. 10metres was one mark, 11 was two.

i.e. if I anchored in a depth of 5 metres, I let out the chain to the 5th mark (15metres), being the minimum chain to depth for good weather. For any blow, I would let out more chain to be sure not to drag.

I was thinking of using cable ties, but worried that any sharp end would result in a cut on the hand.


----------



## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

I'm in the paint school (my windlass has rejected all other markers). A cardboard box contains the paint over spray.

Sail Delmarva: Marking Chain

However, yes, I would park nose in and use the dock if I had a monohull. When replacing anchor and chain a few years ago that is exactly how I did it.

Sail Delmarva: A New Anchor: 35-Pound Manson Supreme


----------



## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

I anchor almost every night of the year.

I use colored cable ties three at a time. Sure they need replacing every few months but it is rare for all three to go at once.

Paint does not last if anchored in sand.


----------



## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

It's is exactly one meter from my windlass to the bow roller so its easy to measure while on the water.

I also use colored cable ties. They are very easy and I have about six or seven every ten meters. They last well and are quick to do


----------



## barefootnavigator (Mar 12, 2012)

I use 1/4" colered nylon three strand through the links lengthwise. 12" strands are easy to see, it will go through the windlass fine and lasts a very long time


----------



## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

As mentioned, paint will have to be renewed routinely if cruising in a place with an abrasive bottom, such as the Bahamas... Colored cable ties are the cheapest and overall best solution, probably...

I'm using these "Chain Rainbow" markers from Osculati, they're pretty slick... Kind of pricey in the States, but down in the Caribbean they're pretty cheap at Budget Marine or Island Water World...


----------



## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

Another very effective method that is seldom mentioned but that works in the pitch dark and in the rain. Some will state that markers you can feel are good, but placing naked fingers on the chain between the rollers and the windless is unnecessarily dangerous. I think we've all heard of a few windlass injuries and had a few close calls.

For windlasses that power down, the simplest method of all is to *count*. If the rate is 8 ft/second and you need 100 feet, about 12 seconds. Very simple, will never get stuck, and will never wear off.


----------



## vtsailguy (Aug 4, 2010)

pdqaltair said:


> For windlasses that power down, the simplest method of all is to *count*. If the rate is 8 ft/second and you need 100 feet, about 12 seconds. Very simple, will never get stuck, and will never wear off.


Simple, never thought of that.

How do you get the initial rate though?


----------



## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

vtsailguy said:


> Simple, never thought of that.
> 
> How do you get the initial rate though?


Count the time it takes to reach the water from the bow roller.


----------



## Omatako (Sep 14, 2003)

JonEisberg said:


> As mentioned, paint will have to be renewed routinely if cruising in a place with an abrasive bottom, such as the Bahamas... Colored cable ties are the cheapest and overall best solution, probably...
> 
> I'm using these "Chain Rainbow" markers from Osculati, they're pretty slick... Kind of pricey in the States, but down in the Caribbean they're pretty cheap at Budget Marine or Island Water World...


Yep, we use these too. Over time they do tend to fall out but I haven't replaced the originals for a few years now and there are still enough left to know whats going on. Also not cheap in NZ (I see your image link is the place we buy ours from )

Only problem is not enough colours so we start at 10 metres (never put out less than that) use them every 5 metres and go from red to white to yellow to white the red and so on. That way we plan the depth so for example, 25 metres is second white - when the anchor is dropped that's all we have to look for. Oh, another small glitch is that over time the mud stains the white ones so that when it's a little dark it gets hard to tell white from yellow.

We can power the chain down but never do. And I can certainly vouch for keeping fingers away from windlasses. I nearly lost two fingers three years ago.

We must get poor quality cable ties in NZ because my windlass removes them like a purpose-built cable-tie stripper


----------



## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

vtsailguy said:


> Simple, never thought of that.
> 
> How do you get the initial rate though?


a. Catalog. Generally close enough.

b. Time to drop measured 100 feet.


----------



## arvicola-amphibius (Apr 14, 2012)

I put the bow roller over the dock and haul all the chain out about every six months to give it a fresh water wash and use that time to clean accumulated mud and weed out of the chain locker.
While the chain is out I refit fresh coloured cable ties - the smaller the better as they are less likely to chafe or cause the chain to slip on the gypsy. Three whites for 10 meters, three yellows for 20, three greens for 30, three reds for 40 and three blacks at 50 (when it's almost all out). The colour coding is logical to my brain, darker = more chain. By having three cable ties at each point, even if two break over the six month period to the next clean-out, it's no problem.


----------



## Bene505 (Jul 31, 2008)

pdqaltair said:


> Another very effective method that is seldom mentioned but that works in the pitch dark and in the rain. Some will state that markers you can feel are good, but placing naked fingers on the chain between the rollers and the windless is unnecessarily dangerous. I think we've all heard of a few windlass injuries and had a few close calls.
> 
> For windlasses that power down, the simplest method of all is to *count*. If the rate is 8 ft/second and you need 100 feet, about 12 seconds. Very simple, will never get stuck, and will never wear off.


We also count how many seconds when dropping the anchor. We drop from the helm, so that makes it easy to get it about right and then set the anchor.

But then I go check the actual length by finding one the yellow painted links "- --- -" at 30 feet, "-- --- --" at 60 feet, "--- --- ---" at 90 feet and then "---- --- ----" at 120 feet.

Counting is nice, but I want to be very accurate -- not too long so I don't swing into someone else, but not to short so holding power is good.

(Actually more painted stripes than painted links. Stripes were easier to paint.)

Regards,
Brad


----------



## saillessinseattle (Sep 27, 2011)

*Thanks*

Many helpful suggestions. I will get the anchor and chain on the dock and try the plastic stubs you hammer in at 30 ft intervals. And practice the timing trick as a backup. Are chain counters typically reliable? They seem like a convenience but really not necessary in most conditions.


----------



## Stu Jackson (Jul 28, 2001)

One other thing to consider: most folks anchor in water no less than 10 feet deep, right/ So the minimum they would deploy would be (to make the math easier, forget about the height of the bow) say 50 to 60 feet for starters. That's where I'd put the first chain marker. Putting one on at 30 feet when that would always be in the water is a waste of whatever material you're using.

Also, you should be able to figure out half of 30 feet, so I find that markers every ten feet are also a waste.


----------



## obelisk (May 23, 2008)

> Originally Posted by JonEisberg View Post
> As mentioned, paint will have to be renewed routinely if cruising in a place with an abrasive bottom, such as the Bahamas... Colored cable ties are the cheapest and overall best solution, probably...
> 
> I'm using these "Chain Rainbow" markers from Osculati, they're pretty slick... Kind of pricey in the States, but down in the Caribbean they're pretty cheap at Budget Marine or Island Water World...
> ...


nothing is cheap in NZ! 

i have used these markers but keep losing them and cable ties. paint is really the only way to go, in my opinion. sure it takes some planning but also gives you the chance to inspect your entire rode every couple of months, something that yuo rarely have the chance to do without going through this exercise. i find that marks every 25' are more than sufficient--when in doubt, just pay out until the next mark. more scope is a good thing!


----------



## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

obelisk said:


> nothing is cheap in NZ!
> 
> i have used these markers but keep losing them and cable ties.


Interesting, I'm a bit surprised to hear you've had those markers come loose...

Perhaps the recommended use would be to go one size larger? I have 1/4" HT chain, and could only find the Osculati markers sized for 5/16 or 8mm... Took a bit of work with a flat head screwdriver, with an assist from MacLube, to coax them into place, but mine have remained secure, have yet to ever lose any... The downside would be, when the time comes to end-for end, or re-galvanize your chain, dealing with these markers will involve a bit more work than simply snipping off cable ties, or similar...

As Andre mentioned, probably best not to use the white markers anywhere close to the bottom of the chain...


----------



## puddinlegs (Jul 5, 2006)

saillessinseattle said:


> Is there a trick or an easier way than pulling out all the chain from the locker and laying that out on the dock? Say you have 300ft of 1/2 inch chain and you want to mark the whole chain. How about pulling the boat so the rollers are over the dock so you can use the windlass? I have never dealt with this much chain.


At the risk of offense, is it really that hard? If so, I'd head to the gym. Strength and mobility is an important component of safety on a boat. But why not pull the boat up in your slip and drop the chain as you've suggested, then pull it back and forth between two measured points to mark things?

Sailing is at times physical. Sometimes very physical. Hauling some chain out on the dock to measure and mark? One of the pain in the butt but not particularly hard chores.


----------



## Kenny Henry (Jul 8, 2013)

I'm of the 'paint' school for marking my 300' of chain. Lower in on the dock and paint about 1 meter of chain every 60' in a different color. The mnemonic suggested by an article in Cruising World is "Rub Your Body With Oil": Red, Yellow, Blue, White, Orange. I go with the British Royal Navy mnemonic "Rub Your Balls With Grease" so my last section is Green. Sure makes it easy to know how much is playing out. Touching up the paint occasionally is no big deal. K.


----------



## Capnblu (Mar 17, 2006)

I let the stern line loose, pulled the bow in, and flaked the chain onto the dock by hand in 25' lengths. red cable ties at 25, white cable ties at 50, blue at 75, yellow at 100, yellow and red at 125, yellow and white 150, yellow and blue at 175, green at 200, green and red at 225, green and white at 250, green and blue at 275. The 300 foot is the splice to rhode, and Its all goin out if I get that far, so I don't give a damn after that!


----------



## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

*Re: Thanks*



saillessinseattle said:


> ... Are chain counters typically reliable? ....


Not at all.


----------



## gamayun (Aug 20, 2009)

Just did this last weekend after procrastinating on it, but it really was not bad with 200 feet of chain and another 100 feet of rope. I used day-glo paint before and after the first 100' mark so I can see that coming and 2 nylon ties at 50' increments. I use the ROYGBIV mnemonic. I had considered using those clips but the local chandlery was selling a small pack of 5 (or so?) for $14, which was too much for something that likely would need to be replaced often. Cleaned out a small bucket full of sand from the bottom of the locker, too. Now glad to have checked that one off the list...


----------



## Blue Pearl (Apr 6, 2017)

Perhaps 1 chain marker at 10 feet, 2 at 20, 3 at 30 and so on? Color doesn't matter


----------



## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

If paint is good enough for the US Navy...



















... just sayin', just for fun.


----------



## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

I use red, white, and blue cable ties. Red at 10 meters, white at 20 meters, blue at 30 meters. Repeat the pattern?

Don't like the metric system? It's 33 ft, 67 ft, 100 ft. Ish. Close enough.


----------



## twoshoes (Aug 19, 2010)

pdqaltair said:


>


Took me a second to realize I wasn't looking at regular sized chain with some oddly posed action figures. :laugher


----------



## capecodda (Oct 6, 2009)

It's been interesting to see the different color schemes. We do this:

Red - 25'
Green - 50'
Blue - 75'
White - 100'
double Red - 125'
double Green 150
etc.

We've been using whatever cheap spray paint we can find or have lying around when it needs refreshing....and a cardboard box to keep from getting paint everywhere.


----------



## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

twoshoes said:


> Took me a second to realize I wasn't looking at regular sized chain with some oddly posed action figures. :laugher


I will have to apologize to the marina for complaining that they charged me for three people to commission my anchor chain.


----------



## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

Minnewaska said:


> I will have to apologize to the marina for complaining that they charged me for three people to commission my anchor chain.


I dare say they use more than three.

US Blue Ridge (LCC19)

----

Although paint does wear off the outside of my links, enough stays between the links for about 200 nights.

Yeah, I would use the dock and the windlass. That is how I load new chain.

To paint, drape the sections to be marked across a cardboard box. No mess and you can pain all sides.


----------



## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

twoshoes said:


> Took me a second to realize I wasn't looking at regular sized chain with some oddly posed action figures. :laugher


That is regular sized chain. Not the little necklace chain we use. *grin*


----------



## colemj (Jul 10, 2003)

We use 11" cable ties and leave the tails - starting with black: [email protected]', [email protected]', [email protected]', [email protected]' - then switch to white: [email protected]', [email protected]', [email protected]', [email protected]'.

So it is a pattern that repeats in black, then white.

Don't see a need for marking less than 50' since that seems to usually be a minimum that goes out anyway. If we want less, it is easy enough to guess (it is 15' from the water to our windlass).

The zip ties go through the windlass with no problem, but sometimes get broken or chewed on the bottom. We anchor almost continuously year-round and I have to replace a random tie maybe twice a year. It isn't any problem to know where to replace it because only the tail breaks and the rest is still secured to the chain.

In the dark, I just feel the chain as it goes up/down for the tails to pass my hand (it is 8' from our roller to the windlass, so not very dangerous to have my hand lightly against the chain 4' away from the busy ends).

Mark


----------



## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I bought the Imtra chain markers many years ago and didn't install them until I replaced my chain about two seasons ago. I use four markers, of the same color, in a row, at each marked length, and one has fallen out here and there. I have extras to replace the missing. Many complain that they all fall out, but so far, not bad for me. They may work better on larger links, who knows. Paint would be substantially less expensive, but these are working for me. Pulling my chain out, drying it off, painting without overspray all seem like a lot of work for such as small project.

I put Red at 50ft, White at 100ft, Blue at 150ft, Yellow at 200ft and mixed colors at 250ft and just before the full 300ft would be deployed. I also put a label on the windlass control so one doesn't need to remember (R50,W100,B150.....). I still count seconds off in my head, old habit.

Marine Chain Markers


----------



## colemj (Jul 10, 2003)

We used those plastic insert things for a couple of months. First thing that happened is they all quickly stained the same color (New England and Chesapeake anchoring), so were impossible to know where one was in the chain unless one counted closely. Second thing that happened is when anchoring in mud, if we didn't get the chain perfectly clean and some mud was still stuck in the links, you couldn't tell where the markers were when random sections of chain had mud in it. Third thing was they all started randomly falling out until I just got fed up with them. 

I really wanted them to work because they seem like a good idea in principal, but for us, they were awful in practice.

Mark


----------



## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

Minnewaska;3884345... drying it off said:


> Drape the chain sections to be painted across/inside an open box. Trivially easy. They dry quickly, the box catches the over spray, you can paint all sides, and they hang free until dry. It's so neat I paint mine on deck. I've done this 3 times without issue.
> 
> It is just about knowing how--my first article sold to _Good Old Boat_ illustrated the method.


----------



## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

Mine are at 12m, 22, 32, 42 etc to 70m

The 2 is bow roller to water. So in effect they are 10m intervals.

The plastic things between the links are bullrwaddle. Can't see them. So I supliment with cable ties.

Color scheme is
R red
Y yellow 
B blue
W white
G green

Rub Your balls With Grease. And is standard for many boats but not all.


----------



## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

colemj said:


> We used those plastic insert things for a couple of months. First thing that happened is they all quickly stained the same color (New England and Chesapeake anchoring), so were impossible to know where one was in the chain unless one counted closely. Second thing that happened is when anchoring in mud, if we didn't get the chain perfectly clean and some mud was still stuck in the links, you couldn't tell where the markers were when random sections of chain had mud in it. Third thing was they all started randomly falling out until I just got fed up with them.
> 
> I really wanted them to work because they seem like a good idea in principal, but for us, they were awful in practice.
> 
> Mark


The two Marks agree!

First time ever, ever, ever! ☺☺☺☺


----------



## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

colemj said:


> We used those plastic insert things for a couple of months. First thing that happened is they all quickly stained the same color (New England and Chesapeake anchoring), so were impossible to know where one was in the chain unless one counted closely. Second thing that happened is when anchoring in mud, if we didn't get the chain perfectly clean and some mud was still stuck in the links, you couldn't tell where the markers were when random sections of chain had mud in it. Third thing was they all started randomly falling out until I just got fed up with them.


That's the pretty standard report, but I'm having much better luck.

The white do get dirty and are a bit tougher to notice, as a result. The others have not stained, certainly not enough to disguise their actual color. You need to see them on the way down, so I'm not sure why mud is a big issue, which we anchor in frequently. We spray our chain with a washdown pump on the way up. I also hit the locker with a minute or two of fresh water when I'm cleaning up at the dock. Maybe that's the departure from norm.

As I said, I put four of the same color in adjacent links. I've had one fall out, but the three are still noticeable. If they are all on the same plane (i.e. inserted in every other link) you can miss them, if you are looking down at the chain and they go through the windlass sideways. Learned that one quickly, however.


----------



## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

pdqaltair said:


> Drape the chain sections to be painted across/inside an open box. Trivially easy. They dry quickly, the box catches the over spray, you can paint all sides, and they hang free until dry. It's so neat I paint mine on deck. I've done this 3 times without issue.
> 
> It is just about knowing how--my first article sold to _Good Old Boat_ illustrated the method.


Great tip. Thanks.

If and when my current program flops, I may give it a try. Muscling 750lbs of 1/2" chain around the deck/dock would require a good back day. . Suppose it could be done by laying it all on the bottom, and hittitng the colors on the way out.


----------



## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

Minnewaska said:


> Great tip. Thanks.
> 
> If and when my current program flops, I may give it a try. Muscling 750lbs of 1/2" chain around the deck/dock would require a good back day. . Suppose it could be done by laying it all on the bottom, and hittitng the colors on the way out.


I've done this with 1/2-inch chain for friends. Just line the bow up with a dock on the other side if possible. Lash the anchor in place, and walk the chain down the dock in ~ 25' flakes as it comes off the windlass. The trick is to have a few helpers.

On my cat, the chain can be taken off the side of the gypsy, straight across the tramp, which makes it child's play. If you can take it off the side, I wonder if it would be worth the time to make a wooden "chute" that would take it off the side and over to the dock. Then the windlass does most of the work.

It is also very easy to do when the boat is hauled for bottom paint, if you remember. Touch-ups are stupid easy, because you don't even measure. You just drop the chain in a pile, and when a mark comes, drape it over the box. Then wind it back up the next day. No dragging it around at all.


----------

