# Oil Change experience - Lessons Learned



## kmeeks (Dec 9, 2002)

REMOVING THE OLD OIL

I just changed the engine oil on my diesel this weekend. After having read several reviews and pros/cons of using a hand pump that withdraws the oil through the dipstick hole - versus using an electric pump through an attached hose at the drain-plug, I opted for the cheaper alternative: hand-pump.

I was very careful in laying out pads to absorb oil - and kept a rag wrapped around the pump handle to catch any dribbles.

The hand-pump was an inexpensive model from West Marine (about $26).

The hoses were correctly sized - and assembly was quick and easy.

I did notice that the pump leaked more than I expected along the plunger handle...causing a minor mess as oil dripped in places I didn''t cover. It took approx. 30 minutes to transfer the old oil out.

Realizing that there was probably still oil in the lower portion of the engine oil pan, I decided to attempt further draining by placing a plastic cup in the bilge and letting gravity do a little work. About 1.5 cups were extracted...hopefully it was the worst of the lot...to compensate for the additional mess and effort getting it out.

REPLACING THE FILTERS

Next I removed the PH16 oil filter - luckily I had a nice wide oil catch pad already prepared, as about a 1/2 cup of oil spilled out as I removed it...and I quickly installed the new oil filter [remembering to lightly coat the new rubber seal first!!!]

Then I examined the old filter...

Oops.

No rubber seal.

Off comes the new oil filter - and I removed the old rubber seal from the engine block...re-install new oil filter.

ADDING NEW OIL

The previous owner told me he was using simple 30-W engine oil...I opted for a 15-40W blend that should provide extra protection during higher engine operating temperatures.

CONCLUSION

Overall, I would give the hand-pump a grade of a "C" - it was messy - and took longer than I wanted to spend on the task.

Storing the now-messy oil pump and associated hoses is problematic - and would be a contributing factor to creating new messes whenever it is needed again.

My next oil change will include a project to add an electric pump connected to a hose that is fitted into the drain plug of the engine.

Making engine oil changes simple, clean, and easy will help ensure that maintenance isn''t delayed due to inconvenience...and thus hopefully prolonging the life of vital equipment.


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Forget the electric pumps - get a Big Boy vacuum pump/holding can.


----------



## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

Buy the oil change kit from West Marine (a bucket with a pump mounted on top of it) and remove the pump from the bucket and mount it permanently in your engine compartment. I did this last winter and now I change my oil every fifty hours because I can (I drain it into empty washer fluid bottles). Make sure you put a ball valve in betwen the pump and the hose for positive shut off. I remove the handle of the ball valve just in case. I also bought a PVC threaded plug that I screw into the outlet of the pump so no risidual oil drips out inbetween changes. This is the best and easiest way to change oil!


----------



## pirateofcapeann (Aug 27, 2002)

I hate to be the barer of bad news, but this may be for the better. I''d check with the owner''s manual about the type of oil to use in your diesel engine. Most like a single weight fleet type oil and don''t recommend the multi grades. There''s a round API service label on quart bottles of oil and there''s a specific grading for diesel engines. Make sure your using the right oil!

Another trick for draining the oil sump is to remove the drain plug and pipe in some 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch brass piping up to where you can put a suction hose from your pump onto it with out spilling! The wider pipe will make the task go faster and being at the drain will allow you to get it all. Make sure you put a cap on it when you’re done! Try running the engine a while first to get the oil hot and lower it''s viscosity. That will help it flow faster too.

Pi


----------



## capedoryus (Dec 17, 2002)

I have used the hand pump this past oil change and I agree all the way. I have used the vacum based top sider available at West Marine in the past but lost it in a move and want with the cheap pump which was a mistake. I used the top sider for pumping the diesel oil from a car for over 300k miles and it worked great. Just have to make sure the oil is warmed up.


----------



## L124C (Oct 4, 2007)

As stated above, you really need to warm the engine. My electric pump won't move the oil at all when cold. Once heated, it drains the oil in about 30 seconds!


----------



## nimble1 (Apr 29, 2002)

Tried the hand pump first with disastrous results...went with the West Marine vaccum unit and its much better.


----------



## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*Guys..*

I don't even know if KMeeks is still an active member and would assume he's done quite a few oil changes since 2003..


----------



## boatpoker (Jul 21, 2008)

pirateofcapeann said:


> I hate to be the barer of bad news, but this may be for the better. I''d check with the owner''s manual about the type of oil to use in your diesel engine. Most like a single weight fleet type oil and don''t recommend the multi grades. There''s a round API service label on quart bottles of oil and there''s a specific grading for diesel engines. Make sure your using the right oil!
> 
> Another trick for draining the oil sump is to remove the drain plug and pipe in some 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch brass piping up to where you can put a suction hose from your pump onto it with out spilling! The wider pipe will make the task go faster and being at the drain will allow you to get it all. Make sure you put a cap on it when you're done! Try running the engine a while first to get the oil hot and lower it''s viscosity. That will help it flow faster too.
> 
> Pi


This can be done with the correct hose but DO NOT connect a brass or copper tube to the oil pan drain fitting ! The constant vibration will "work harden" the tube, it will be come very brittle and disintegrate depositing all your oil in the bilge.


----------



## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

Get a PELA 2000. I can change my oil without spilling a drop in less than 10 mintes, with minimal labor.

_Not a drop spilled._










PELA 2000 Oil Extractor at


----------



## brak (Jan 5, 2007)

I have been using hand pump for oil changes for a while. My engine takes 1.25 gallons of oil too, so I know what it's like.

Well, I can tell you that there is nothing better than a *right* hand pump (and nothing worse than a wrong one). To that end, the plastic hand pump sold at West Marine and few other choice retailers can only be qualified as total crap. In fact, until I bought a decent brass pump I was of the same opinion as you.

With a right pump, and properly warmed up engine I can pump out 1.25 gallons of oil in less than 5 minutes, and don't spill a drop either (use plastic gallons bottles like those from antifreeze with narrow neck and a long tube).


As far as "oil change kits" go - I had the vacuum pump thing (from West Marine too). I sold it on Ebay last year  And don't start me on electric oil changers. Once I visited friend's boat, when he was using one of those. He accidentally switched wires and the darn thing started pumping dirty oil back out spraying it all around. He ruined his cabin cushions and my brand new boat shoes


----------



## cutterorient (Feb 22, 2009)

Changing the oil is a pain in the kiester for sure. I have a Westerbeke that has a little flexible tube for draining which helps a little. A guy at the boatyard made an excellent suggestion this fall when I was draining the oil for winter. I used an aluminum foil roasting pan from the grocery store which cost about 1.50. It has good capacity, holds shape, and can be bent/fitted to the space under the engine. Spillage was reduced to basically zero.

Also I was able to comfortably leave the thing draining ( metal pan bent to stay in place) for weeks after the first 98% was out. This let me leave it open to get each drop out that was gonna come out - hey why not. I then added about 1/2 the oil she takes to coat inside and will add the rest before I fire it up after the hibernation.

The filter is still a PITA and always drips. Thoughts? My car has a cast filter holder. Pop the top off, change the element, put the top on. Presto ! 30 seconds, zero spill after 50 + oil changes. Wish the boat had that too.


----------



## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

The filter is definitely a PIA. I take an oil diaper and tear it in half. Half gets wedged on the motor under the filter and half goes into a plastic bag. The bag is strategically positioned to just drop the filter into after I spin it off the motor. It isn't perfect; sometime it works great, sometimes I still have to clean up some spilled oil.

I can't understand why Yanmar mounts oil filters and water pumps the way they do.


----------



## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*You need*

You need one of these! Ten to twelve pumps to prime it and it then sucks the entire contents of my pan while I sit back and watch. They used to be made by Tempo which is now Moeller.
*Moeller Oil Extractor (LINK*)










These SUCK or don't suck depending on how you look at it. They are 100% total junk when compared to the Moeller unit above.









Photos courtesy Defender


----------



## jonfreeman (Dec 20, 2006)

*Oil Change - FILTER*

I take a 1 gallon milk jug, and cut it to resemble a scoop, and insert it under the oil filter while removing it. The oil and the filter drop neatly into the jug, and I can drain it into my receptacle with minimal mess. FWIW.

BTW - I also use the Moeller Marine 4.0 Liter Fluid Extractor - vacuum pump drainer from Boaters World. Works great, and neatly.


----------



## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

I like the milk jug idea. I'll try that next time I change the oil.

MaineSail - that vacuum pump is similar to the PELA unit I use. Either option is the only way to go! I tried one that attached to a drill...I'm not sure, but that may have been just an elaborate practical joke played by the manufacturer.


----------



## Dumah (Feb 18, 2010)

respectfully disagree with the poster who claims single viscosity oils are better, been working marine and automotive diesels for 35 years and to my mind the best multigrade lube oil out there is (1) Shell Rotella 15 40, and (2) Ultramar 15 40. I have found the detergent package is much better than others and as far as changing oil filters, cheap insurance to replace at EVERY oil change. I do not recommend Exxon or Esso HDX lubes, have noticed high alumnium deposits in engines I've torn down. Hope this helps, Dumah


----------



## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

I got an X-Change-R ( X-Change-R® Oil Change Systems Reversible Impeller Gear Oil Pumps Marine Service Maintenance ) with which I am quite happy (two oil changes and a transmission oil change). The greatest benefit is that when I have to jug fuel I use it as a fuel pump and don't have to lift the full fuel jugs from the dinghy to the deck. Sweet!


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

I use Shell Rotella, not through any great dedication, but because it's a name product, is rated for diesel and because it's readily available at the local Auto Store. For autos or boat, I don't switch brands once I lock on to something that works.

I agree with Maine Sail - The brass Jabsco pumps are junk for oil changes. I tried one once, got more oil on the floor than in the jug and never really got it all out of the engine. We have a Westerbeke with the flexible hose. It works, is neat, but really slow draining. I usually do something else during the hour that it takes to drain (change fule filters, zincs, etc), but am always worried about kicking the drain pan while moving around the engine. I think that I'll try one of the vacuum systems.

I like the milk jug idea. I usually spread oil absorbant pads beneath the filter area and then just move fast.

regarding oil absorbant pads - for some reason, no auto stores carry them. Pep Boys had something similar, but didn't absorb oil very well. Nothing like the 3M pads. One parts store guy told me that they carried them for a short time but that people couldn't understand why anyone would want one of the pads. Made me shake my head.


----------



## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

*100% Agree*



Maine Sail said:


> You need one of these! Ten to twelve pumps to prime it and it then sucks the entire contents of my pan while I sit back and watch. They used to be made by Tempo which is now Moeller.
> *Moeller Oil Extractor (LINK*)


These things rock :chaser


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

Just bought one on eBay, Chef. I really hate my current method. Thanks (I hope!) for the recommendation.


----------



## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Yeah, the Moeller (or a copy) is a gem. All the cranking and pumping and whatever else besides vacuum cans is fruitless. Use a vacuum system once and you'll add it to the "pry from my cold dead fingers" list. My only complaint is that the vaccum hose can spring around and make an oily mess, so we bag it in a plastic shopping bag with paper towels, and then store the whole pump in another thicker bag.
Sure does take the "work" out of the job though!


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

I'm looking forward to getting the Moeller, now that I've ordered it. I rarely make impuse purchases, but this was one of them. I've never liked the slow drip-drip of draining the oil from the oil pan tube. I was never sure that I got all the old stuff out. 

I made the eBay purchase while the Admiral was asleep on the couch next to me, and I immediately went into "Rationalization Mode". So here's what I came up with - Since I do my own auto oil changes, the Moeller will be of use on cars too. Especially on my 350Z which has a pan under the entire engine compartment that must be removed to access the oil pan and filter. I don't have a lift and have used the dealership since I bought the car last April. 

Thanks Sailnet - another great idea.


----------



## roline (Apr 7, 2000)

Ive used the pella suction pump for years with Rotella-T oil, just run the engine a little to warm up the oil to reduce the viscosity before you pump...


----------



## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Sabreman-
In theory, pulling the drain plug (on your car) is a better way to change oil, as any sludge or grunge in the oil will be on the very bottom of the pan and will come out when you pull the drain plug. A vacuum hose will never get that "syrup" off the pan bottom the same way. 
On my car, the road pan doesn't cover the oil pan, that would also interfer with cooling it. Perhaps a neat 2" hole in your road pan would help?
But you're never going to regret the Moeller on the boat!


----------



## sailhog (Dec 11, 2006)

The only thing I have to add to the above is to be sure no one is present at your marina when you are disposing of the oil. The oil tends to float on top of the water, forming a huge slick. The hull of your boat can become fouled, so it's always best to go to the end the dock and dump it out next to someone elses boat. This way your hull will protected and it will look like they are the ones dumping oil instead of you. I should also add that oil is flamable, even when it's floating on water in a marina. If it catches on fire, the boats in the marina could burn. While this normally isn't that big a deal, the fire could spread to your boat if, say, the slick happens to drift in your direction. So be careful, always make sure no one is around, and take the utmost care when dumping oil overboard at your marina.


----------



## Livia (Jul 20, 2006)

brak said:


> To that end, the plastic hand pump sold at West Marine and few other choice retailers can only be qualified as total crap. In fact, until I bought a decent brass pump I was of the same opinion as you.


Ditto - our brass hand pump doesn't leak a drop and our plastic one was a mess.


----------



## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

When changing the oil filter I tape a large heavy duty garbage bag to the side of the engine around the filter.

Then when working inside the bag spills are contained. 

I also use latex gloves and change them when dirty. $4 per 100 on offer from Harbour Freight!

Ex mechanic


----------



## redhead78 (Dec 7, 2009)

*re oil change*

I also found if to take a large ziplock bag around the filter, you will catch most of the oil, a white 2x2 absorbent in the bilge is also a must. To remove Oil you can get a pump system from Beta Marine, I will try to put up a picture.....Red


----------



## Dumah (Feb 18, 2010)

I own a Mermaid Mariner (6 cyl, 135 HP) and it came complete with a "sump pump". I have modified to add an electric pump witch allows me to not only change the oil with 12 volts, but also gives me a "prelube" before starting. This is accomplished by connecting an old furnace burner pump to a 12 volt blower motor and adding a "t" and two ball valves to the discharge side. One side of the "t" goes into the oil gallery, while the other line is for oil change purpose only.


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

FWIW, sounds like the OP was using a Fram filter, probably not a good idea in a marine diesel unless the manual specifies such a filter, which I would doubt. You should only use filters listed in the manual, which of course are often those sold by the manufacturer at exorbitant prices. The automotive filter may fit, but they are not equivalent components. (I wonder what the warrantee says on this issue...)


----------



## svHyLyte (Nov 13, 2008)

An alternative to the hand pumped vacuum collector is a 5-gallon plastic paint pail with two plastic fittings in the lid, one sized for a hose to match the dip-stick tube or if one has a built-in sump pump as does our Perkins 4-108, the nozzel on the pump and the second sized for the hose from a small shop vac. Ideally, the fitting connected to the engine should have a spout on the inside of the lid of the pail that extends a foot or so into the pail but I'm not certain that's entirely necessary. With this arrangement, one can warm the engine for a moment or two, insert the drain hose in the dip-stick tube or connect it up to the sump-pump nozzel and in two minutes or less suction out the used oil which is nicely confined to the 5-gallon pail. In our case, once the pick-up doesn't seem to be pulling any more oil, I usually open the drain plug on the front bottom of the pan and insert the intak nozzel there, moving it around by hand, which seems to pull another 1/2 quart or so, and any sludge, from the very bottom of the pan.

The paint pail cost me $5.00+/- from a local painting supply shop:










The fittings were off-the-shelf PVC fittings from Home Depot.

FWIW...


----------



## jerryrlitton (Oct 14, 2002)

Sailhog has an excellent idea. If I may add you can invest in some good (not Russian POS) NVG's so at night you can recon again (what you looked at in the day) places to dump your oil. Maybe the boat that has a noisy dog or loud kids.....


----------



## WanderingStar (Nov 12, 2008)

I changed my oil the other day. There is a large drip pan under my engine. I just drained the oil into the pan, then pumped it out with a brass oil pump. They draw well without that little skinny tube. I store the now messy pump in an auto oil pan in the back of the engine compartment.


----------

