# Kiwigrip advice needed



## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

I have a question for anyone experienced in using Kiwigrip non-skid. 

Is it thick enough to fill in and cover a typical worn non-skid pattern or must you first sand off all or most of the raised pattern in order to get a good looking finish?


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## hriehl1 (Aug 8, 2007)

I'll add a question for those experienced with it... is it also suitable for the non-skid seating surface areas in the cockpit? 

In my research I've seen the vendor says one's roller technique can create more-or-less stipple... but I'm curious to hear peoples' real-world experience.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

Sloop, I did all my decks with Kiwi three years ago, right after recoring the decks. Am very satisfied with the way it has held up, even up where it gets the most hard use up near the anchor. It is the consistency of mayonnaise. You can control the amount of texture by the kind of roller you use. They supply a roller that leaves a VERY rough surface. When I go over it again will find something a bit less aggressive. It dries fast, so it is best to have two people- one spreading to a uniform thickness, one texturing. A small pc of the roller is necessary to get in under stuff where the roller will not reach. Taped edges need to be pulled before it sets completely or the tape will lift the edge. I don't know how deep your existing tread is but the Kiwi is much thicker than a regular paint. I CAN see where the old non-skid lines were if I look for them where I went below the radii on the corners of the cabin top so as to eliminate them as slip zones. 

I would not use it for seating areas. It's too rough. The only place I used it in the cockpit is under foot. A bit of warning- the stuff is really rough. It's perfect for my taste but would take your skin off readily if you fell on it. With kids around, I'd be wary of making it too rough.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

smurphny said:


> Sloop, I did all my decks with Kiwi three years ago, right after recoring the decks. Am very satisfied with the way it has held up, even up where it gets the most hard use up near the anchor. It is the consistency of mayonnaise. You can control the amount of texture by the kind of roller you use. They supply a roller that leaves a VERY rough surface. When I go over it again will find something a bit less aggressive. It dries fast, so it is best to have two people- one spreading to a uniform thickness, one texturing. A small pc of the roller is necessary to get in under stuff where the roller will not reach. Taped edges need to be pulled before it sets completely or the tape will lift the edge. I don't know how deep your existing tread is but the Kiwi is much thicker than a regular paint.* I CAN see where the old non-skid lines were if I look for them where I went below the radii on the corners of the cabin top so as to eliminate them as slip zones. *
> 
> I would not use it for seating areas. It's too rough. The only place I used it in the cockpit is under foot. A bit of warning- the stuff is really rough. It's perfect for my taste but would take your skin off readily if you fell on it. With kids around, I'd be wary of making it too rough.


Thanks Smurph - see the highlight - I read that as saying it WON'T completely cover or rather bury the old moulded non-skid pattern.

Is that correct? I'm not so much concerned with the final texture as with whether or not I will need to sand my whole deck completely smooth before applying it.

I have a flush deck 43 footer so it's a BIG deal to me.


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

I think you need 80 grit smoothness. The application of and resultant finish can be affected by thinning the kiwigrip and or using a different "stipple effect" roller. My painter used a different roller in the high wear areas to provide better traction and wear. As a filler I don't think I'd want to rely on the kiwi grip. I've had it on the deck for 7 years now. Glad I took the time for proper surface prep first. Can understand the 43 feet of deck challenge......gonna have some guns after that job!


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

You control the texture by controlling the thickness. 1/8" inch will yield a very stippled surface. 1/16" or less will give that small texture for cockpit seats or coaming tops that ya want. It will cover old non-skid nicely. Just use a paint eater or other scotch brite wheel to give the old non-skid some teeth for the Kiwi Grip to latch onto.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

CharlieCobra said:


> You control the texture by controlling the thickness. 1/8" inch will yield a very stippled surface. 1/16" or less will give that small texture for cockpit seats or coaming tops that ya want. It will cover old non-skid nicely. Just use a paint eater or other scotch brite wheel to give the old non-skid some teeth for the Kiwi Grip to latch onto.


Thanks Charlie - I will have to sand and I figured on a 50 or 60 grit on an R/O - I just didn't want to have to completely sand off all the raised pattern as it would be a huge job.


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## CorvetteGuy (Jun 4, 2011)

used it on the topside of ma Corvette went right over the original molded nonskid and it did cover the pattern, I put it on my cockpit but we use cusions, it can also be sanded down gently for a not so aggresive feel. heres a pic of end result. very happy with the ease and price!!


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## CorvetteGuy (Jun 4, 2011)

I also preped the deck with a bronze wire wheel and a cordless drill. scratched it up just fine.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

CorvetteGuy said:


> used it on the topside of ma Corvette went right over the original molded nonskid and it did cover the pattern, I put it on my cockpit but we use cusions, it can also be sanded down gently for a not so aggresive feel. heres a pic of end result. very happy with the ease and price!!


Looks very nice. Is that grey straight out of the can or did you mix grey & white?

It looks paler than the samples of grey that I saw - they were much more "battleship" toned.


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## CorvetteGuy (Jun 4, 2011)

Straight out of the can applied with a 3" putty knife then rolled with the supplied roller


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

I think if you sand down the transitions from the non-skid to the smooth surface, it may be possible to hide the outline of those areas. I roughed up all the surfaces but did not feather out the lines of the old gel coat non skid edges. They DO show through if you look for them even though I applied the Kiwi pretty thick. Like any paint job, what is underneath will come through. It probably ought to be prepped like any other paint job. If you can feel it, it will show even if somewhat disguised by the texture.


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## tap (Apr 1, 2009)

Would a notched spreader like this be good for applying Kiwigrip and controlling the thickness?


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

If I had a notched trowel handy when doing the Kiwi job, probably would have tried it. Putting it on with a brush, as I did, is certainly not a very precise way to meter the overall thickness. Don't know if working alone, there would be time to fiddle with a third tool but if one person was in charge of spreading the right thickness, quickly notching on and then brushing smooth, and one in charge of the surfacing, I don't see why this would not work. The danger in working it alone would probably be having the stuff skin over in the notched state. 

I have a couple of spots now where underlying gel coat "spider cracks" are starting to work through on the port side deck that did not get/need recoring. It will be interesting to see how a new coat can be blended in. They say it can be readily over-coated so we'll see. I saved a mason jar full of the stuff for touch-up, carefully packed inside in a gallon can. Will have to dig down to the bottom of the locker to see if it's still good or if I'll need a quart. Most of the time water-based products don't last long once the can is opened.


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## CorvetteGuy (Jun 4, 2011)

I kept a third of a can for touchups also, I put a peice of plastic wrap over the kiwi and it has stayed workable for a year now and just used it to touch up a few spots where some battery acid had changed it from grey to yellow. worked well except for the newness look but I am sure it will match the rest in a few weeks of good use.


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

If it gets screwed up, you can remove the bad section with Acetone and reapply.


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## SVTatia (May 7, 2007)

CharlieCobra said:


> You control the texture by controlling the thickness. 1/8" inch will yield a very stippled surface. 1/16" or less will give that small texture for cockpit seats or coaming tops that ya want...


Charlie, for a controlled texture, do you have a technique for consistently pouring/spreading the same thickness?

Thanks


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

Putty knife to spread it and a good eye.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

As a follow-up to this old thread, yesterday one of the items on my worklist was to go over some of the KIWI GRIP areas. I had a quart of the stuff CAREFULLY saved in a Mason jar, tightly sealed and double wrapped. It was there for probably close to two years. I can tell you now that it does not keep that long, no matter how well preserved. It formed a perfect Qt. Mason jar-sized rubber toy. which now resides in the dumpster.


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

Yeah, any air at all in the container will allow it to cure.


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## Multihullgirl (Dec 2, 2010)

I found that even with the supplied roller, if I rolled over-and-over again, I could create a less aggressive texture. I did not metre the thickness with a trowel, I controlled by use of the roller, rolling pressure and repeated rolling. This sounds tedious but it actually wasn't. I suppose the repeat rolling had the same effect as a thin trowel spread, but I can't say for sure.

In regards the color, as suggested in the instructions, I took the can to a local paint house and asked that they add a bit of pigment and got the exact very pale grey I wanted.

KG is good stuff if you ask me.


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## CalypsoP35 (Jul 24, 2006)

I used the grey Kiwigrip a year ago and had to touch up some spots this year (including a 3' stretch starting at the bow due to some grease that came out my old roller furler). You could see where the line of demarcation between the old and the new for about a week or two and then it just disappeared. I was very pleased. (and this was with a fresh gallon) 

When I started the project I was torn between the grey and the blue. My old nonskid was blue. I ended up using the grey. I was pleasantly surprised at how much I liked it. It almost has a blue hue to it as opposed to a black or steel grey hue.


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## SVTatia (May 7, 2007)

CalypsoP35 said:


> I used the grey Kiwigrip a year ago and had to touch up some spots this year (including a 3' stretch starting at the bow due to some grease that came out my old roller furler)....


This from the Kiwi Grip website:

"What happens if I spill Gasoline or Diesel on KiwiGrip?
KiwiGrip is impervious to common caustics such as coca-cola, peanut butter, jelly, alcoholic beverages, and detergents, although it can be damaged by some solvents. Diesel, oil, acetone, and gasoline spills should not be allowed to pool. Quickly mop up spills, and promptly scrub with a detergent boat soap and water."

What was the damage caused by the grease? Discoloring or did it actually dissolved?


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## CalypsoP35 (Jul 24, 2006)

The damage was discoloration. It looked like a rust stain. I had the same issue on the original nonskid. I didn't realize where the stain was coming from until I decided to replace my old Hood Seafurl. When I took it apart I found that inside the roller casing it was lubed with a ton of grease which aparently leaked as water went through it. No stain this year with my new furler.

As for the second part of your question, if you are constantly spilling gasoline around the gas cap it does wear and discolor. I will likely have to re-paint the area around my diesel cap at some point. Not a big deal to me. All things considered I'm glad I went with the Kiwigrip.


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## mbowser (Aug 4, 2000)

My gallon of Kiwigrip just showed up at my door this afternoon. I'm pretty excited to get started, but has anyone used roller sleeves other than the supplied kiwigrip textured roller? I've seen a bunch of textured roller sleeves at home depot and lowes that look similar and aren't $25 a pop. Just curious if anyone has tried it.


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## Freedom007 (May 18, 2012)

I recovered my diamond pattern non skid with kiwi and loved the ease of application.the less pressure you apply to the roller the less aggressive it is. it is not bad to sit on at all though I have bottom sidder cushions I use for long periods of sitting. I can also still see a bit of the old patt through it which does not look bad at all. it will be the easiest boat project you will ever do !! Prep and good weather are key to a good job. You can purchase the texture rollers, 9" and 3" at home depot for way cheaper by the way.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

What is the open time of KG? Is it like resins where having a large surface area, like in a roller tray, slows its "kick" compared to being in say a tub?


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## SVTatia (May 7, 2007)

I just did the first part of my application this weekend - about half of the coach-roof. Easy and looks very nice.



SloopJonB said:


> What is the open time of KG? Is it like resins where having a large surface area, like in a roller tray, slows its "kick" compared to being in say a tub?


To avoid kicking off the paint in the can, I bought empty one-quart cans and "de-canned" the gallon into these, so I just opened/used one quart at a time, good for about 10 ft2. I also bought a small stainless soup ladle at the dollar store to transfer the KG to the deck right out of the can - you can use anything such as a piece of wood but there is no need for a paint tray.

BTW, there is a how-to video of the application on YouTube:


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

SVTatia said:


> To avoid kicking off the paint in the can, I bought empty one-quart cans and "de-canned" the gallon into these, so I just opened/used one quart at a time, good for about 10 ft2. I also bought a small stainless soup ladle at the dollar store to transfer the KG to the deck right out of the can - you can use anything such as a piece of wood but there is no need for a paint tray.


Thanks for that. I had the idea it was catalyzed. Guess more research is in order before I plunk the $$ down.


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## Freedom007 (May 18, 2012)

I simply use a 4 in serrated putty knife style blade then spread it with that. The bigger the teeth the thicker your application will be I found that if you decant it. it or move it from container to container the more you expose it to air thus shortens the working time. Have done it on 7 boats now so am getting the hang of it. Again you will find it great to work with.


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## Ritchard (Aug 15, 2011)

I just finished doing all the removable fibreglass pieces from my boat. I took them home over winter, finished a 3 coats of Brightsides the other day, now have applied a nice tan coat of KG on the nonskid. There is a very short learning curve to the product, I am wildly pleased with the results I achieved this afternoon on the cockpit locker kids, the anchor locker lid, and the spray hood (cockpit slider cover?). 

I was not sure at the outset how long you are to leave the masking tape after applying the finish. Turns out the answer is "not very long." I had the best success when I pulled the tape immediately after doing each boat part. I put on a pretty thin coat on the cockpit seat surfaces, just used a 6 inch plastic putty knife and spread it around. When that is rolled in, it gave a nice gentle finish. For the other pieces I wanted a little more grip, so did the same putty knife treatment, then added more blobs evenly across the surface to build up thickness. When rolled out thoroughly, it was nicely evened out, and nice and grippy looking.

I used a custom colour. I didn't quite like the nearly cream colour that is the factory "tan" so took a gallon of white to the paint store and picked a colour. It actually took 4 picks before I found one that was "allowable" according to the manufacturer's instructions as to how much of a particular tint colour you can put in the base. Struck me as odd. All the tan colours I picked were more or less the same, but the first three weren't allowable - too much of this tint or that. For some reason, the can does not fit in the shaker at the Benjamin Moore store (American product in Canada?) so I was instructed to get a mixing paddle for my drill. A full mix took at least 15 mins. I wasn't gonna be stingy with the mix time at all, 'cuz this stuff is $spendy!

I have to say, the contrast between the fresh white Brightsides and the sandy tan KG is quite lovely.


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## bwindrope (Feb 25, 2007)

I am doing this project now too. Have done all the removable things, and will do my decks later this Spring. So far, I'm happy. I experimented with different textures but find the standard foam roller works well for my taste. Have had one small patch break off, about the size of a quarter. Just came off clean. Surprised, because my prep included grinding off the old gelcoat with 60 grit and cleaned the surfaces with acetone. Let it dry in the warm house. Will patch that and hope it doesn't repeat. 

Really looking forward to having new deck non-skid, as the dome shape of the Gulf 32 deck near the mast has become fairly slippery as the gelcoat has worn smoother. I'm using a notched masonry trowel for my spreading, and it seems to do fine.


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## bobmcgov (Jul 19, 2007)

We used a hardware store foam roller cover for the cockpit seats & coaming tops. Creates a suede texture that is easy on clothing & skin but still gives good traction. The deck came out very, very aggressive -- our air is so dry, the Kiwi was hardening as fast as two of us could work it (even on a cool morning.) So a little harsh on the bare flesh; but it will soften with use, and there is absolutely no way you could slip and fall on the foredeck. Feel like a tree frog up there.



Applying it was dead simple. Our new boat will be getting KG, for sure. We love the stuff.


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## Tymadman (Feb 22, 2013)

Looks great, and I like the Port and Starboard stickers too ;-)


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## Ritchard (Aug 15, 2011)

That does look great, thanks for posting the pic. I'm pretty sold on this stuff. I liked the look even better when it had cured, the next day after I posted above.


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## bobmcgov (Jul 19, 2007)

Tymadman said:


> Looks great, and I like the Port and Starboard stickers too ;-)


:laugher My partner is a former rower (mostly eights). So she knows port from starboard ... but she knows them facing _backward_. Harken sells a bunch of those stickers, so there must be a large contingent of former rowers getting into sailing. (Mostly we're pretty loose with the Nautitalk on our boats. "Turn right. I'll pull on the green string. Mind yer noggin!")

BTW: Before anyone asks, that controls bridge over the companionway is indeed a roof rack off a Toyota minivan.


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## Ritchard (Aug 15, 2011)

bobmcgov said:


> BTW: Before anyone asks, that controls bridge over the companionway is indeed a roof rack off a Toyota minivan.


It looks pretty great, and should be included in the Low Buck Projects thread.


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