# Bridle for Buoy Mooring



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Does anyone have any advice on procuring a bridle for a buoy mooring for my harbor? I have always tied to a slip so I am a little unfamiliar with length and how it should be cleated. The sail boat is 30' and I am on a 30' can radius. I am also looking for an idea on length of the bridle.


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## mgiguere (May 22, 2004)

*Mooring Buouy*

Hi There:

I've been on a mooring for the better part of 20 years...some in Marblehead Mass (open to the NE) and 6 yrs on the Chesapeake Bay (Hartge's on the West River).

Although people say it's overkill for the Bay (not MHD), I firmly believe you should have two lines going to the mooring. Relative to the rope penant, I recommend 3 strand (1 inch or whatever fits the cleat). With 3 strand, you can braid the loop that fits over one of your deck cleats, and the other end can be braided to the metal cleat that is attached to the mooring (forgot the name of those parts). A braided penant is also not as strong as the equivalend 3 strand. The backup safety line should be chain that you can attached directly to the chain part of the mooring (often below the mooring ball---in the bay, rope is attached to the chain to go through the buouy). In MHD, there's no rope, it's all chain. The chain is your secondary line to the boat and goes around the other (opposite) cleat.
The attachments to the mooring are anchor shackles that are wire tied shut.

If this sounds like overkill, in MHD, my boat was hanging by the chain after the rope primary was sawed through by the movement of the boat in the no-name (Perfect) storm. Many other boats were lost. Even on the bay last weekend, it blew 49 knots.

Anyway, good luck. As far as line length, just make sure there is an approx 30 degree angle on the primary and an extra 30% length on the chain. Also, save yourself a lot of aggravation and get a pick-up buoy...then you can sail right to your mooring single-handed and calmly walk up to the foredeck and pick up the penant with your hands.

Good luck.

Moe


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Is the boat a multihull?? Generally, you don't need a bridle for for a monohull. A bit more information, like the kind of boat it is would be helpful. 

Bridles are often sized based on the beam of the boat. This is particularly true for bridles for multihulls.

AFAIK, generally, double braid lines are stronger than their three-strand equivalents. For example, NE Ropes three-strand 1/2" nylon is rated at 7500 lbs., but the 1/2" nylon double braid is rated at 8500 lbs. However, IMHO, braided lines aren't as good for dock and mooring lines, since the braid tends to chafe more than three strand does, and gets caught on splinters and picked apart a bit. 

Chain is a good idea for the mooring connection, if you're going to be moored in heavy weather, since it is far more chafe resistant. But having a heavy nylon snubber on the connection might be a good idea to prevent drastic shock loading by the chain on the cleats or deck hardware on your boat.


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## Zanshin (Aug 27, 2006)

I use a bridle for my 43 foot monohull because it ends up hunting too much with a single line attached to a port or starboard forward cleat. I used some thick line and braided a loop into both ends and a figure of 8 loop in the middle. The two loops go over the two front cleats and the central knot goes to the mooring ball. I intend on putting a stainless steel safety hook of appropriate size into that central loop when I get to a chandlery that carries them - that way all I need to do is clip onto the mooring connector and I'm done, right now I use a short length of rope to connect that loop to the shank on the mooring ball.

Here is a picture of my beta version which I did with old running rigging and where I used a double-whipping instead of a splice. This worked quite well and stopped my boat from hunting around too much.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*Zanshin that's a joke right??*

Surely you would not attach a 43 foot boat to your mooring with that. If you actually plan on using that please, please, please don't ever come to Maine. My boat was already hit once by a guy using similar mooring etiquite...

Here are some of the problems with that picture.

1) Running riging has NO elasticity and should not be used to attach a boat to a mooring!
2) Your splices are, shall we say, M-I-C-K-E-Y MOUSE and would not hold you boat in anything more than utterly benign conditions. That splice is perhaps 2% as strong as the line and flat out dangerous for a 43 footer!
3) You have no thimbal or any sort of chafe protection on the mooring ball end of this bridal!
4) The figure 8 reduces the line strength and could be a source of chafe!

The pendant below would be the bare minimum on a 40+ footer if you want to stop "hunting" use two of these at equal lengths.

MOORING PENNANT 3/4"-15' POLYDYNE *LQ* 137459

If you want more info on why I use Yale mooring pendants exclusively read the link below!
Pearson Triton #381 Glissando | Log for May 26, 2005

Please tell me he was joking guys...!!!!!


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I'm afraid he might be serious... but his boat draws a lot more than mine does, and even if it drags, I can anchor in shallow enough water that he'll bottom out before he gets to me.


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## Zanshin (Aug 27, 2006)

halekai36 - please reread what I posted. This was my beta version, I used running rigging because I didn't have the 3/4 line which I am now using. A figure 8 reduces the line strength, but the lines I am using now are oversized. I ended up splicing and whipping to a thimble in my final version and will put a ss safety hook on it when I get to a chandlery so no chafe and I just click onto the mooring ball. 
I am sure the authors of "Stitch and Whip eye in plaited rope" techniques from 2 books on rope knots and whipping that I use would not consider their methods to be "Mickey Mouse". Your estimate of 2% is ludicrous. Please read up on this. The rope is stitched and then whipped with Marlow #6 and #8 waxed whipping twine. The breaking strength of that whipping is just less than a splice.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Zanshin-

One caveat on the whippings. They are far more vulnerable to chafe than are a full splice would be. If the whipping is damaged, the strength of the eye drops dramatically.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

My bad did not see the "beta version" sorry. I have read plenty on stitch and whip and worked in a rigging shop for some time. Yes 2% is ludicrous but lets call it poetic license due to an attempt at making a strong point. Either way I would NEVER use stitch and whip on a mooring line EVER as I've seen far to many of them let go in much less critical situations. Stitch and whip is fine for a dog leash etc. but NOT for a mooring but it's your boat so do as you wish...


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*No to mention..*



sailingdog said:


> Zanshin-
> 
> One caveat on the whippings. They are far more vulnerable to chafe than are a full splice would be. If the whipping is damaged, the strength of the eye drops dramatically.


Let's not forget UV degradation!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I kept my boat on a mooring buoy for years. Best place for it. I suggest you use chain, shackled and moused. You can put a loop in the other end using a shackle and cover the loop in plastic tubing to save your decks. run the chain over the roller and put the pin in to stop it jumping out. If you want to double up with rope, use 3 strand nylon with a thimble and shackle to the buoy and lots of anti-chafe. I prefer a plain end just cleated in the normal way, as it can be released under load. Once you 'get to know' your buoy, you can judge if you need rope for shock absorption - chances are, in deep water, there will be plenty of play in it's own chain. I would say that the last picture in Halekai 36's post shows the pendant far too long, she will sail all around it in a blow.
Another couple of tips: regularly scrub the buoy, as at times it will be pulled hard alongside and you don't want barnacles etc scratching your gelcoat. If it is the type with a metal ring on top, cut an old (small) fender in half, cut a hole in the end and thread your pendant through the hole. Then use the fender to cover the ring - can save a lot of damage. Don't forget one of the easiest ways to pick up a mooring buoy is to lasso it with a loop of (non floating!) rope, pull yourself up to the buoy and make fast at your leisure. Also, by walking the buoy alongside you can leave under sail in just about any direction. No worry with springs, fenders, tricky docking maneuvers etc. It's the way to go.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

If you're going to use chain to attach your boat to the mooring ball, you best have a very good, sturdy, and well secured mooring bitt. Otherwise, the shock loading that can occur can rip the chain off the boat. While nylon lines have the risk of chafing through, they do absorb a lot of the shockloading.


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## mike dryver (May 13, 2006)

hard to see that in your post although the eyes did not look loose in between the binding. just should have clarified at the start.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Kept my boat on a mooring buoy for years - best place, no springs and fenders or tricky docking maneuvers. I used chain, shackled and moused to the buoy, with a plastic covered loop in the other end made with a shackle. My second line was 3 strand nylon with a thimble, shackled to the buoy. Lots of anti-chafe. I prefer a plain end, cleated in the normal way as it can be released under load. The chain should be led over the bow roller with the pin inserted to stop it jumping out. I believe the last picture in halekai36's post shows the pendant far too long: she must sail around all over the place in a blow. Depending on how the buoy is attached to the bottom and the depth of water, there is likely to be enough play in the system to obviate the need for shock absorption.
A couple of tips: scrub the buoy regularly as,at times, it will lie hard alongside and you don't want barnacles etc. scratching your gelcoat. Also, if it is the type with a ring on the top, get an old fender, cut it in half and cut a hole in the end. Thread the pendant through the hole and use the fender to cover the ring - can save a lot of damage.
If you are not used to a mooring buoy, remember one of the easiest ways to pick it up (can be accomplished by granny or from the cockpit) is to lasso it with a loop of (non floating) line, haul yourself in and make fast at your leisure. Also, by walking the buoy alongside, you can leave under sail in almost any direction. Who needs a slip?


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## Joel73 (Apr 23, 2007)

Quick question about pennant size... i've searched for another guide but must be typing in the wrong keywords.

Our boat displaces almost 6000 lbs... what diameter line should i be using for the pennants? I made a mistake and ordered 1" line based on some online quick guide and wow was that overkill!!!

So what size? 1/2" 15' *OR* 3/4" 15"?????

Thanks!


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Joel-

I'd go with a 5/8" mooring pennant... I think 3/4" is a bit overkill and 1/2" too light.


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## Joel73 (Apr 23, 2007)

Thanks SD... i thought that was going to be the answer.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

My thoughts on mooring pedant lines is that they should be close to the size of the anchor rode you're generally using... unless you're using an unusually light anchor rode. I've seen 15000 lb., 31' power boats anchored out on 1/2" line and think that they're idiots... but that's just me.  I'd imagine they use the same 1/2" lines to tie up to a mooring ball. 

BTW, if I'm tying up to a mooring for a short period of time, I will often use a lighter line...like a 1/2" dockline...but if I'm going to be leaving the boat on the mooring, I'll dig out the 5/8" stuff.


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## Joel73 (Apr 23, 2007)

I decided to go with 3/4"... and here's why: I talked to my neighbor whose mooring we used on occasion until we got ours installed. He said he had 3/4" which worked great for our chocks and cleats... so since i've used 3/4" before (unknowingly) then i know it will work for us. I figured a heavier line can't hurt and the mooring is used for storms only so heavier is better. He said 5/8" would be fine too but he preferred 3/4".

Man... when i got that 1" pennant in the mail i thought i was ready to moor a ferry with that sucker!    

I'm returning it for this instead: Double Braid Mooring Pennant


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

Joel73 said:


> I decided to go with 3/4"... and here's why: I talked to my neighbor whose mooring we used on occasion until we got ours installed. He said he had 3/4" which worked great for our chocks and cleats... so since i've used 3/4" before (unknowingly) then i know it will work for us. I figured a heavier line can't hurt and the mooring is used for storms only so heavier is better. He said 5/8" would be fine too but he preferred 3/4".
> 
> Man... when i got that 1" pennant in the mail i thought i was ready to moor a ferry with that sucker!
> 
> I'm returning it for this instead: Double Braid Mooring Pennant


Joel,

The same thing is cheaper at Hamilton Marine

3/4 X 15 pendant

I really do feel the Yale Polydyne pendants with stainless thimble are well worth it though!

I replace every two, regardless, but I'm overly anal, and the one I just took off could probably go another three at least! There is NO wear on the thimble and NO corrosion between the galvanized shackle and stainless. Galvy thimbles wear out well before the pendant will.

3/4 X 16 Yale Polydyne


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I'd second Halekai's recommendation of the Polydyne pendants.


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## Joel73 (Apr 23, 2007)

halekai36 said:


> Joel,
> 
> The same thing is cheaper at Hamilton Marine
> 
> ...


halekai! I just saw this... too late now but thank you for the info anyway. If i don't learn to splice before i need them again i'll go with Hamilton Marine.


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