# Headstay replacement and Harken MkI furler



## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

Hi folks,
Our 1984 Sabre 34 has a Harken MkI furler, which for the year that we've owned the boat has worked flawlessly. We don't know what year it was installed, but since it's a MkI, I'd guess in the 80s.

We may be replacing the standing rigging (another thread and another topic). On these furling units, as I underdstand it, the bottom "turnbuckle" on the headstay is specific to the furler. Assuming we can get those parts (so the entire headstay is renewed), then theoretically we could replace the headstay and keep our old Harken furler.

So my question is this...is that a dumb idea? I mean the Harken works fine. And if available, we'd be happy to replace a few parts and do some maintenance to keep it in good working order. But is this one of those situations where if one replaces the headstay one really should replace the furler too (simply because of age)?

(Oh, if it matters, we're sailing on the Chesapeake and not planning any ocean passages anytime soon. If we were, I wouldn't ask this question).
-J


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Why not have a rigger look at it to evaluate whether it needs to be replaced or not. The furler could be much newer than that, if it was bought as a discontinued item... No reason to replace the furler if you can get the necessary parts IMHO.


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

sailingdog said:


> Why not have a rigger look at it to evaluate whether it needs to be replaced or not. The furler could be much newer than that, if it was bought as a discontinued item... No reason to replace the furler if you can get the necessary parts IMHO.


Well, I've had a rigger look at the rig, and he said overall everything looked to be in very good condition. My issue with asking a rigger about the furler specifically is that they make money on selling me gear and new rigging. So if I ask, he's going to tell me I should really replace it. At least that's been my experience thus far. Not saying there aren't riggers out there who will be less biased, just saying I haven't found one yet.


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## JohnRPollard (Mar 26, 2007)

When we replaced the standing rigging on our previous Dana 24, we installed a new headstay but kept the Harken Mk1 Unit 0 Furler. 

There were no issues with taking this approach. The old unit still worked fine, before and after the headstay change. 

If the existing furling unit were to fail at some point down the road, there's nothing to prevent you from getting a new one at that point. More likely, it will keep on trucking for a long time.

P.S. But if you really covet the newer units, you might see about selling the existing one to someone that is looking for a low-cost way to get into roller furling.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Joz—

If you hire a rigger on the understanding that you're just looking for a second opinion, most of the better ones will give you the truth.


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## JohnRPollard (Mar 26, 2007)

sailingdog said:


> Joz-
> 
> If you hire a rigger on the understanding that you're just looking for a second opinion, most of the better ones will give you the truth.


Maybe this would be a good reason to contact David's son?

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/62620-best-rigger-just-moved-annapolis.html


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## ambianceack (Aug 27, 2006)

We have 1979 Sabre 34 MKI. We replaced all the standing rigging 2 years ago and kept our 30 year old Profurl Roller Fuller. A professional rigger did the work. We then purchased a new headsail last season. Now we are seriously considering a new Harken MKIV roller fuller. So in my limited experience it is OK to use a new headstay with an older roller fuller. If your roller furler works fine then I suggest make some upgrades to the furler and get the new standing rigging. Having the Norseman connectors is an added bonus.


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

Thanks everyone. We're going to keep the Harken for now. It's works fine. As for standing rigging, well, I found a rigger who isn't saying I need to replace everything right off the bat just because it's old. He's saying they'll come look at it, and let me know what they think might need attention, if anything. I'll let you know how it turns out!
Cheers!
-J


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Joz—

If he doesn't work out or you need another opinion, see the link that JRP posted.


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

Hi SD, actually they are one in the same. While I don't know if it will be David's son coming to look at the rig (I'm much closer to the Annapolis location), I decided to call them (and I mentioned Steve's name and that I'd heard good things). So far, so good. 

Thanks!
-J


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

J-

We have having Haven Harbor replace our old Harken 1 furler in June with a harkenIV Unit 1. The turnbuckle is specific to the boat/ furler and is an additional piece that must be bought. We are also having a new "#10 rod headstay installed. Contact Mike at Harbor Haven. He will give you an honest opinion.

Fave


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## sailor50 (Aug 26, 2009)

Your furler is probably fine unless you have had halyard wrap, missing top cap, a line bind when using, etc.

It's not difficult for a rigger to replace the headstay in the existing furler if it is still operational - regardless of its age. It is not something that the average person can tackle - so learn and assist while your system is down.


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## PalomaIslander (Mar 31, 2010)

*PalomaIslander*

I have a Harken MK1 and I need to replace the furling line. Does anyone know how to do this? The line goes through a hole in the bottom flange of the drum, and is secured by a knot below the drum, which has a stainless steel cover. How do I get access to the underside of the drum? Any suggestions much appreciated - PalomaIslander


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## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

PalomaIslander said:


> I have a Harken MK1 and I need to replace the furling line. Does anyone know how to do this? The line goes through a hole in the bottom flange of the drum, and is secured by a knot below the drum, which has a stainless steel cover. How do I get access to the underside of the drum? Any suggestions much appreciated - PalomaIslander


If I remember correctly, there are three screws that secure the stainless cover to the unit. If you remove these screw you can lower the cover enough to access the underside of the flange. 
The screws are underneath the drum where the threaded t-bolt is so you are going to have to get your head right down on the deck to see them. 
Alternatively, you could loosen your backstay and pull the mast forward with the jib halyard and then pull the pin on the bottom of the forestay which will allow you to lift the drum up enough to access it easier.


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