# Headed North...



## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Left Marathon Key, Florida March 3rd. The weather was windy as Hell, but moderated a bit later in the day, enough to run with a reefed main and full jib. It took 5 days to make it to Jupiter and into Manatee Pocket's Sailfish Marina, where I'll spend the night at the fuel dock. Photos will be forthcoming, and that full enclosure, well, it's fantastic. With just a single panel in place on the windward side the temperature rose dramatically, the cockpit got nice and comfy and that was with 45 MPH winds and 48 degree temperatures.

More to come,

Gary


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## Silvio (Nov 10, 2010)

Good to hear from you. Funny thing, I was just thinking about you making your way north yesterday. Don't know why, but your upcoming trip popped into my thoughts and I hoped you are well.


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## deltaten (Oct 10, 2012)

Bon Voyage, my friend. Hope to see you soon


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## tomperanteau (Jun 4, 2009)

Need videos, lots of videos. No music, please. Narrate.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Tom,

I'll try to shoot some videos tomorrow and post them via YouTube.

So far much of the trip has been relatively easy, and the ocean passages were great. With the urging of Melissa, I opted to bypass Miami and all those bridges. She is definitely one of my heroes and without her assistance the trip would not have been nearly as much fun or as successful.

Got into the Gulf Stream right after leaving Miami, sailing speed went from 4.7 to 8.1 MPH shortly after entering the stream's westernmost edge. Unfortunately, the weather turned a bit nasty shortly after entering the inlet at Fort Lauderdale. NOAA was calling for 5 to 10 from the northeast, but the actual winds were much, much higher and from the northwest. Some gusts that night felt like they topped 45 or 50 MPH, and the temperature dropped like a stone. Thank goodness for that enclosure - it was a smart move and well worth the expense in the comfort it brings.

Mario and I were discussing the comfort aspect of cruising a few weeks ago. What he said made absolutely good sense. "The whole point about cruising is to get from place to place in comfort. Beating your brains out and freezing to death is not part of cruising - it's insanity." I couldn't agree more. I like my gas grill, hot showers, Temper-pedic foam mattress in the Vee Berth, TV, internet connection, cell phone communications, etc... 

Most of all, I loved having the ability to entertain hundreds of folks in the Florida Keys and other places along the way. The Morgan 33 Out Island was spacious enough for me to carry the vast majority of my music gear in relative safety, and while it was a bit of a chore to get it on and off the boat at times, the rewards were well worth the effort. 

Internet access can be a bit difficult along the ICW, but when I'm able to post, I'll be adding some photos, and hopefully some videos as well. No music, just the live stuff, uncensored, wind noise and sails flapping.

Cheers,

Gary


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Just stay safe Gary....Maryland is still here and still cold though it looks like we dodged the last storm again. Forecast is for it to warm into the mid fifties and keep rising.

Take you r time and have a safe trip and check in.

Dave


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## zedboy (Jul 14, 2010)

*gary what is the*

Link for the youtube channel?

Safe journey& fair winds


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Gary,

Sounds like you are living The Dream! Thanks for sharing. 

Down


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

You were sailing in 37 knots of breeze??
Your tone is totally different than it was during the trip south. Enclosure or not, your confidence seems much higher.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Thanks for the inspiration, Gary!! Have a safe passage.


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## misfits (Dec 9, 2011)

It's begining to make sense why it's snowing up here today.

I really liked reading about your adventure this winter. Enjoy the slog northward & be safe!


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## mgmhead (Jan 14, 2007)

Bon Voyage Gary, you're well ahead of me (won't leave Marathon until March 12. A dock mate left about the same time as you, should you encounter an Island Packet 420 named Anywhere the skipper is a good friend of mine named Gregg, please say hello.

Travel easy as Maryland and Virginia need a chance to warm-up before arrival.

Mike


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Upper 50's this weekend, then back to the 40's. Take your time, enjoy the trip. 
We'll all be here (dang it) when you pass by.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

Safe sailing Gary. Have enjoyed following your adventure. Take your time. Spring is still hiding somewhere down that way


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## Leocat66 (Dec 11, 2010)

Anyone heard from Gary? We are still very interested in his adventure even though he is now headed away from paradise. Hope to meet Gary next year Down Island and learn from his experience first hand.


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

travlineasy said:


> Mario and I were discussing the comfort aspect of cruising a few weeks ago. What he said made absolutely good sense. *"The whole point about cruising is to get from place to place in comfort. Beating your brains out and freezing to death is not part of cruising - it's insanity."* I couldn't agree more. I like my gas grill, hot showers, Temper-pedic foam mattress in the Vee Berth, TV, internet connection, cell phone communications, etc...


Well, that's one style of cruising, of course... And I certainly agree it's nice to have those sort of creature comforts...

However, when one strives to eliminate any and all possibility of "discomfort" from wandering about in a small boat (not to mention needing niceties such as internet and TV), one will certainly be taking a wide array of fascinating potential destinations off the table... Hell, even the Caribbean or South Pacific can be a real ***** to get to, sometimes... (grin)

Lots of versions of "Paradise" out there, Gary - and some might involve a considerable amount of discomfort to get there...

Here is the aptly-named Paradise Harbor, Antarctica, for example...


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

Craig and Peter Smith (of former Rocna anchor fame) went to Antarctica too: Antarctica Photo Journal (1): Drake Passage & landfall Antarctica
Great photos of Patagonia, Falklands and Antarctica.

I wouldn't call that a cruising trip though, more like a mission.


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Yup! They is cruising and then they is Expeditions! Ha! 

Down


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Too cold for this old man. Any temperature lower than my age is the dead of winter, and I hate winter with a passion. I need palm trees, sugar white sand, turquoise water and warmth - 72 to 85 is just fine.

I've made it to Fernadino Beach, which is just below the Georgia border this afternoon. All of the past six days have been inside, the outside is really nasty right now - winds in the 25 sustained and 35 gusts category, mainly from the northwest. Temperatures are expected to fall into the 30s tonight - it's gonna be a cold one.

The enclosure works like a charm, pretty much as described by others - sailing in a green house. Sometimes it's too warm and I have to remove a panel to get the temperature in the cockpit down to a comfy 75 degrees. 

Depending on tomorrow's weather, we'll either head out of the inlet here, or stay inside until we reach Saint Simon, which leads me to this question.

Has anyone here had any first had experience going out the inlet at Saint Simon Island? This is one of the few that I have never utilized when I was running power boats and fishing offshore, so I could really use some help ASAP.

Haven't had sufficient internet access to post the vids yet, but with luck I'll be able to do a couple tonight. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Cheers,

Gary


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

travlineasy said:


> Depending on tomorrow's weather, we'll either head out of the inlet here, or stay inside until we reach Saint Simon, which leads me to this question.
> 
> Has anyone here had any first had experience going out the inlet at Saint Simon Island? This is one of the few that I have never utilized when I was running power boats and fishing offshore, so I could really use some help ASAP.


St. Simon's Sound is one of the most straightforward entrances along the coast, and used by deep draft vessels going into Brunswick...

However, it is a LONG way in there from the sea buoy, and you really don't want to cut the corner coming from the south by more than about the second pair of buoys... All depends on the tide, if it's on the ebb, it will seem like FOREVER to get in there... If it's on the flood, however, and the breeze is still up out of the NW, it will kick up a very nasty chop...

So, hopefully it will lay down for you tomorrow, and the tide will be flooding on your arrival... Good luck...


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

Be safe out there! and take your time.. still nasty up here.. Warmer during the day.. but dipping below freezing at night


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Gary,

Where did you sit out this last frontal system that swept up the coast?

Down


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

Sorry, Gary - it appears I misunderstood your question, sounds like you are thinking of departing from St. Simon's, right?

Unfortunately, that involves a considerable amount of losing a lot of ground back out to the SE, that's the problem with going back out any of the Georgia Sounds heading north, and St. Simon's is the worst - involving the greatest distance heading SE before you can turn the corner headed N... And, you do not want to cut that corner headed N, by much, anyway...

You might consider hanging at Fernandina until you get your weather... Did you visit Cumberland Island on your trip south? Wonderful spot, you could spend tomorrow exploring there, then depart from St, Marys Entrance the next day...

If you do go up to St. Simon's inside, you might continue heading up to Sapelo Sound, and out there instead... Sapelo is the one sound that trends somewhat to the NE... Don't attempt it with any significant swell running, however - though after a strong NW breeze, it should be pretty flat out there... The buoyage is widely spaced, and it's shallow a couple of miles off, but you'll be OK, and the charting thru there is pretty accurate...

Good luck...


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

JonEisberg said:


> Sorry, Gary - it appears I misunderstood your question, sounds like you are thinking of departing from St. Simon's, right?
> 
> Unfortunately, that involves a considerable amount of losing a lot of ground back out to the SE, that's the problem with going back out any of the Georgia Sounds heading north, and St. Simon's is the worst - involving the greatest distance heading SE before you can turn the corner headed N... And, you do not want to cut that corner headed N, by much, anyway...


Jon,

I have not made this trip. I am wondering how much ground you are referring to that would be lost leaving from St. Simon's. How many miles before you can turn ne? Some of that distance is easterly so that would not be lost. It just doesn't look to me like a serious detour. It might add an hour or two to the trip at best. Is that a fair estimate? I am not trying to be contrary, just wondering about the choice. It might shorten the trip if weather is favorable and traveling inside is avoided.

Thanks for your experience.

Down


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Jon,

The outside trip saves about 68 miles if you leave Florida at Fernandina Inlet and come back inside at Paris Island. Also takes a lot of the headaches out of the excursion with Georgia's unkept segment of the ICW. Today, the winds were howling at 25 and gusty from the north and northwest, so I opted to remain inside and spend the night at Jekyll Harbor Marina, where I can also spend the night in relative comfort with their electrical power hookup. Tonight's forecast is for temperatures in the 30s.

Tomorrow morning, I'll head out of the inlet at Saint Simons and make my way north to Paris Island or Beaufort, SC.

Cheers,

Gary


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

travlineasy said:


> Jon,
> 
> The outside trip saves about 68 miles if you leave Florida at Fernandina Inlet and come back inside at Paris Island. Also takes a lot of the headaches out of the excursion with Georgia's unkept segment of the ICW. Today, the winds were howling at 25 and gusty from the north and northwest, so I opted to remain inside and spend the night at Jekyll Harbor Marina, where I can also spend the night in relative comfort with their electrical power hookup. Tonight's forecast is for temperatures in the 30s.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Gary, I'm well aware of the distance saved and other issues with running the Ditch... That's why the ONLY times I'll run inside - particularly between Morehead City/Beaufort and the Florida line - is when the weather absolutely compels me to do so... (grin)

The point I was making, is simply that a considerable distance is added by going up inside to St Simons, and then back out from there... From the ICW departing from St Marys Entrance, the distance up to the St Simons sea buoy is roughly 24 NM... By running inside to St Simons, and then out from there, you'll have traveled approx. 40 NM to reach the same spot...

Hope the seas lay down for you, and that you don't hit Port Royal Sound on the ebb... If you do, that will be a LONG ride back inside... You might consider staying out longer, and going back in at the South Edisto River, instead... Coming from the south, that's a good way to come into Charleston, and that will save a lot of ICW miles between Port Royal/Beaufort and the Edisto River... South Edisto is by far the shortest In & Out along this part of the coast, whenever I need to make a pit stop for fuel or sleep when running down the coast, I'll often stop at Edisto Marina... Nice little off spot off the beaten track, and a terrific restaurant upstairs...

Sounds like you've got a lot of SW in your forecast over the next several days, enjoy...


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Take you time Gary...Hihghs the next 2 days in the fourties


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Thanks Jon. Just might take advantage of the calmer conditions are head for Charleston, which is only another 42 miles farther. Sure is cold down here tonight, though.

Dave, I just talked with my wife in Forest Hill and she said it was just as cold there and tomorrow's highs will be in the 40s at most. Sure glad I opted to go for that enclosure - it makes life a lot more comfortable while in the cockpit in cold, windy weather. Today, when we pulled into the marina and opened the dodger's center window it felt like someone threw a bucket of ice into the cockpit. Sure makes a huge difference when you're surrounded by clear vinyl.

The internet connection here is a bit slow, therefore, It will be a while before I can post some new photos and videos. 

Thanks again everyone,

Gary


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

downeast450 said:


> Jon,
> 
> I have not made this trip. I am wondering how much ground you are referring to that would be lost leaving from St. Simon's. How many miles before you can turn ne? Some of that distance is easterly so that would not be lost. It just doesn't look to me like a serious detour. It might add an hour or two to the trip at best. Is that a fair estimate? I am not trying to be contrary, just wondering about the choice. It might shorten the trip if weather is favorable and traveling inside is avoided.
> 
> ...


In my last reply to Gary above, I explain why I might have just waited another day in Fernandina and going out from there, instead...

From St. Simons, the choice whether to go back outside there, or continue up the ditch and out at Sapelo, will mostly depend on the tides, and wind... The distance from the ICW out to the St. Simons sea buoy is roughly 10 NM, about 8 NM to the point where you could safely leave the channel and turn NE... You're right, it does trend to the SE, so it's not like you're headed in the entirely wrong direction, but still... Otherwise, the overall distance to the Sapelo Sound sea buoy is approximately the same, whether going back out at St Simons, or continuing up the ICW and out at Sapelo...

High water in that area today comes at about 1100... From where Gary is, he could catch the last of the ebb out of St Simons with a departure at low tide - but unfortunately that would involve leaving in the dark, and running through the stretch behind Jekyll Island (one of the shallower spots in Georgia) at dead low water. He'd be better placed to ride the ebb out had he continued further yesterday, up to Golden Isles Marina behind St Simons... Of course, that would have likely involved running Jekyll Sound at low water yesterday afternoon, but at least it would have been during daylight...

But leaving this morning at a more gentlemanly hour from Golden Isles (leave there too early in the AM, and you'd miss the delicious homemade muffins the dockmaster puts in the cockpit of transient guests each morning) and going up inside, you could catch the fair current from the flood into the sound, and up the Mackay River, and arriving at the troublesome area of Altamaha Sound/Little Mud River on a rising tide, and eventually pick up the ebb in the afternoon and ride it down the entire length of the Mud River and out Sapelo Sound... So, today the tides would work pretty favorably for that option of going up inside, and either for continuing out and doing an overnight, or anchoring up in a nice creek behind Sapelo Island and departing the sound on the ebb early the following AM...

Of course, all this becomes moot if conditions are favorable for actually sailing outside, then it would be a no-brainer to leave from St Simons... Odds are you'd be doing little pure sailing on the ICW, with the possible exception of the longer, straight stretch down the Mud River to Sapelo Sound...


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Jon,

Thanks for your thoughtful answer. I did have a better understanding from your last post to Gary. 

I have no experience traveling in the ICW. When the Admiral retires that should change. We will enjoy a slow trip down and up the coast, spending time in many of the places we have been visiting over the years. We don't make it west of Boston in our own boat now.

This is another example of the valuable resource fellow Sailnet members are. I would have made the decision based on the muffins alone!

Down


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## MarioG (Sep 6, 2009)

Hey Gary sounds like you are making good time. We have made it as far as St.Augustine. Had to set a day after you left us in Cocoa due to rain and that we don't have a greenhouse on our boat like you. With the weather due to make a major change tomorrow we will also be doing the outside from here. Not sure if I told you what a great stop Edesto Beach Marina is but the inlet is the easiest to get in and out on the southern east coast and the people at the marina are great. Don't think we will be able to catch you so fair winds and will see you when we get to MD.


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

I think Gary would have been better off starting this journey about two weeks from now. He's just on the fringe of improving weather.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Arrived at South Myrtle Beach, SC tonight, headed out to a restaurant for an Italian dinner, when I get back I'll try to post some photos and videos.

Gary


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

You seem to be making pretty good time. Too good. It's horrible up here.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

Minnewaska said:


> You seem to be making pretty good time. Too good. It's horrible up here.


I'll second that! Just got in from plowing. Gary GO BACK!!!


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Gary,

Stay an extra day and go to Crocdile Rocks. Its a dueling piano bar youd really enjoy.


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

smurphny said:


> I'll second that! Just got in from plowing. Gary GO BACK!!!


Gary,

A perfectly defensible decision given your responsibilities to the boat!

This is the ideal opportunity to practice the trip between SC and FL. Practice must be one of your life's mantras! Repetition is very helpful and the shorter the interval between repetitions the more valuable the learning experience. You have no choice! GO BACK! I have to go out and start the plow truck!

Down


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## misfits (Dec 9, 2011)

smurphny said:


> I'll second that! Just got in from plowing. Gary GO BACK!!!


If it snows anymore I won't need an extension ladder to get on the boat.

Gary, you're supposed to bringing that warm weather north with you


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## CatMan22 (Apr 16, 2012)

Gary, thank you for sharing your insight and anchorage locations with us. I for one am keeping track as I plan atnsome point to do the Great Loop and will be sailing the ICW north as you are.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Here are some vids from a couple days ago.

Wayne1_WMV V9 - YouTube






Photos coming up in a few minutes.

Gary


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Some recent photos:













































































































More to come,

Gary


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

travlineasy said:


> Arrived at South Myrtle Beach, SC tonight, headed out to a restaurant for an Italian dinner, when I get back I'll try to post some photos and videos.
> 
> Gary


I'm on your tail, buddy...

Left Hilton Head this morning, beautiful day outside up to Charleston, laid up at Isle of Palms marina... Sounds like we'll both be running up the Ditch for the next day or two with the NE breeze forecast, I'll keep an eye out for you...

Boat is a Hunter 41 named EXIT STRATEGY, will probably wind up around MB tomorrow night, Wrightsville the next, then Morehead/Beaufort by Friday... Hope to see you along the way...


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Sounds like you're just a day or so behind me. Today was spent fighting hard tides and wind on the nose, so I only made 30 miles. With luck, maybe 50 to 60 tomorrow. Look for that fat bodied Morgan 33 O.I. Saturday's Child somewhere on the horizon.

Cheers,

Gary


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

travlineasy said:


> Sounds like you're just a day or so behind me. Today was spent fighting hard tides and wind on the nose, so I only made 30 miles. With luck, maybe 50 to 60 tomorrow. Look for that fat bodied Morgan 33 O.I. Saturday's Child somewhere on the horizon.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Gary


My timing is lucky with the tides, I should be able to catch some of the flood up Winyah Bay & Waccamaw, the ebb out of Little River Inlet, and the flood up the Cape Fear River, we shall see...

If I do catch you, I'll try to keep our wake to a minimum going by... (grin)


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## katsailor (Jan 6, 2013)

I'll wave at you as you pass Southport, NC.  Send me a PM if you need to stop for provisions or anything, I'm working nights and available for taxi service during the day.


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## T37SOLARE (Feb 1, 2008)

Gary, 
The weather models are looking pretty abysmal up here for this weekend, so find a good pub & settle in for a couple days...

Did you go inside through GA or outside? If you went inside, I want the details.

Cheers, G


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I'm trying to wrap my head around your experience of having cruised all winter in beautiful weather and are now on a passage home for the sailing season. Jealous!!

My boat is exploded into so many parts right now, it looks like a chandlery, not a sailboat. Launch delayed a week. Going in the first week of April.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Bypassed most of Georgia, exited to the ocean just above Jekyll Island, went about 12 to 20 miles offshore, good sailing until just after sundown, then the winds kicked up quite a bit, 8 to 9 foot following seas and really tight intervals, probably less than 7 seconds, very difficult to hold a course at times. Finally, about 3 a.m., hooked up to the harness and went topside, lowered the main, the jib had already been furled, did a quick and dirty sailfold to be on the safe side, and motored through the night. Made about 168 miles during that stretch, came inside above Beaufort, SC, spent the rest of the day putting the boat back together from the pounding, and of course, getting some much needed sleep. Been motor-sailing since then. Just too narrow in most locations to sail, plus the tide has been against us for much of the days.

Cheers,

Gary


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Nice jump Gary, good that you no longer have Georgia on your Mind


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## MarioG (Sep 6, 2009)

Gary we have made it to Hiltion Head today but will be here a few days while the 1st mate makes a trip by car to NC. Its also going to be real cold the next few days anyways. Hope you stay warm.
We were making 50+ miles a day but that was going from day break to dusk, so a few days off is going to feel good to this old man, I just can't keep up with you younguns.


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

T37SOLARE said:


> Did you go inside through GA or outside? If you went inside, I want the details.


I took a full-keeled draft of 5' thru most of Georgia a couple of weeks ago... It was blowing a near-gale out of the west, producing the most extreme blow-out tides/lowest water I'd ever seen in Georgia before, yet I still ran thru 2 low tides with little problem...

Left Harbour Town on Hilton Head about 0400, at dead low water... Their basin has silted in quite badly, the floating docks opposite the fuel docks/lighthouse were high and dry, and I barely made it out...

No problems until the entrance to Fields Cut approaching the Savannah River crossing, where I bumped once... Hell Gate seemed like it might have been dicey at dead low with my draft, but still passable...

By late afternoon, approaching Altamaha Sound, I was at dead low water again... I had already encountered two tugs/barges aground near Creighton Narrows, but still found plenty of water to pass... I figured there was no way I was gonna make it thru the Little Mud River (probably the single worst spot in recent years) at such low water, but I did (leaving a bit of a furrow in the bottom, no doubt) No further problem down to Golden Isles Marina, where I arrived at around 2030, then running outside the following day... I'd brought 6' thru the known trouble spot in Jekyll Sound last spring at close to low water, however, so it's certainly do-able...

Really no problems at all, so in my experience I'd suggest that the difficulties of transiting the ICW through Georgia at the present time have been overstated to a considerable degree...


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Speaking of degrees - it's going down to 26 here tonight in Hamstead, NC, located about 50 miles down the ICW from Morehead City. Sure glad I've got a heatpump on the boat and connected to the AC power. Hope to make another 50 miles tomorrow, weather depending, of course. My wife says it's a lot colder at home and may snow. Just another 267 miles to Norfolk, which should be doable in about 5 to 6 days. Then it's another 4 to 5 days up the Chesapeake to home.

Hope you catch up John and Mario - I'll make the Margarettas. 

Gary


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

Gary,

We had snow here in Atlantic City Today.. so take your time


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Despite what Jon says, I'm sure glad I had the enclosure made - it's just like sailing in a greenhouse. I LOVE IT!

Gary


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

travlineasy said:


> Speaking of degrees - it's going down to 26 here tonight in Hamstead, NC, located about 50 miles down the ICW from Morehead City. Sure glad I've got a heatpump on the boat and connected to the AC power. Hope to make another 50 miles tomorrow, weather depending, of course.


Might leapfrog you tomorrow, will be going outside from Wrightsville up to Beaufort Inlet...

Left Grand Dunes behind Myrtle Beach this morning, catching a great boost from the ebb out of Little River Inlet... Beautiful sail from Little River over to the Cape Fear River, couldn't have ordered anything better than the 20 knots out of the NW for that ride... Flew up the Cape Fear on the flood, our good fortune with the timing of the tide continues...

Until turning into Snow's Cut at Carolina Beach, that is...

Arrived there at the top of the tide around 1500, to find that sandblasting/painting was being done on the bridge... A scaffolding had reduced the clearance by a few feet, so we were gonna have to wait...

Tied up to the fender system, and walked to boat forward to eyeball it... Not even close, we were gonna have to wait for about a 3 foot drop...

Current was ripping at 3 knots or more from astern, but it took a LONG time for us to gain the needed clearance... Finally, at about 2000 hrs, we eased her through, the Metz antenna just ticking some cables... Surprisingly, that seemed about as low as the water was gonna go, so we came within inches of having to head back down the Cape Fear, and out around Frying Pan... That would have really pissed me off... (grin) Today was gonna be a short day stopping in Wrightsville, and a nice dinner, but instead it's macaroni and cheese aboard here in Carolina Beach... But with the beautiful bit of sailing we had today, no complaints...

Sounds like we've got some weather coming Sat night/Sunday, we may keep on going tomorrow night to try to beat the forecast NE up to Coinjock, we shall see...

Good luck, enjoy that greenhouse... (grin)


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Tomorrow makes two days in a row with winds at 15-20 with gusts to 35 and temps in the 30s. Wind chills teens and 20s. Dont fly back to MD to fast.


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

JonEisberg said:


> Might leapfrog you tomorrow, will be going outside from Wrightsville up to Beaufort Inlet...
> 
> Left Grand Dunes behind Myrtle Beach this morning, catching a great boost from the ebb out of Little River Inlet... Beautiful sail from Little River over to the Cape Fear River, couldn't have ordered anything better than the 20 knots out of the NW for that ride... Flew up the Cape Fear on the flood, our good fortune with the timing of the tide continues...
> 
> ...


damn that looks close. How tall is your mast anyway?


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Another brutally cold night - temperatures are expected to drop to the 20s again tonight, winds are screaming from the northeast, but expected to die down tonight and switch to the northwest. Damned it's cold. Oh well, just another 220 miles to Norfolk. 

Gary


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

mad_machine said:


> damn that looks close. How tall is your mast anyway?


Mast is 63', 64' to the top of the tricolor, 65' to the top of the whip antenna... Arrived in Morehead City at the top of the tide this evening, once again ticked the underside of the bridge over to Beaufort... WAY too close for comfort, I hate running a boat with the air draft this close on the Ditch...

Another beautiful day today, nice NW breeze about 15 upon leaving Masonboro Inlet, went light around midday, then filled in very nicely from the SSW for the last 20 miles or so into Beaufort Inlet... Cold, but a spectacular day on one of my favorite legs outside along the coast - other than a couple of Navy ships maneuvering off Camp Lejeune, never saw another soul out there...

Fantastic dinner at Floyd's 1921 adjacent to Morehead City Yacht Basin, has to be one of the finest restaurants along the entire length of the ICW... HIGHLY recommended, a special place...

Floyds 1921 Restaurant and Catering | Morehead City, North Carolina

Tomorrow night, dinner will likely be peanut butter and jelly served at anchor in the black hole at the bottom of the Alligator River... (grin)


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Jon, looks like you passed me. Be safe.

Gary


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Dinner tonight at the mouth of Adams Creek, NC, on the hook, grilled Kielbasa green beans, corn, fig newton for desert, and washed everything down with a green coconut margaretta. Weatherman is calling for 100 percent chance of rain tomorrow, winds northeast (right on the nose - as usual) at 10 to 20, temperatures in the upper 40s. Gonna be a nasty day, but I still hope to make at least 50 miles before nightfall. Just 187 more miles to Norfolk, VA, then up the Chesapeake for about 3 to 4 days, weather depending.

Cheers,

Gary


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

Anchor went down behind Buck Island, about 10 miles south of Coinjock, at 0130 this morning... Beautiful ride across Albemarle Sound last night in a moderate SE, the sky clear and moon surprisingly bright, considering the weather to come... Wind was already up out of the NE before sunrise, so we were very lucky to beat it across the Sound... Quit early today, freezing rain and sleet made an early stop at Atlantic Yacht Basin a no-brainer, with the forecast blow tomorrow I'm not going beyond Hampton, anyway...

Just be glad you're not offshore, Gary... This "complex low", as NOAA is calling it, is a textbook example of why I believe this is the absolute worst time of the year to be anywhere in the vicinity of Hatteras...



> Gale Warning
> Storm force winds expected Mon into Mon night
> 
> Baltimore Canyon To Hatteras Canyon Out To 36n 70w To 34n 71w-
> ...


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

Annapolis is expecting 3-5 inches of snow out this.. you guys stay where you are and let it pass


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

mad_machine said:


> Annapolis is expecting 3-5 inches of snow out this.. you guys stay where you are and let it pass


They're calling for an inch of slush now. Figures we went or a shakedown ride on the Patapsco in Haleakula today. Forecast after Monday calls for a week of improving weather. Highs in the mid to upper 50s bough Easter


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

the weather channel must have updated their forecast for snow shower Virgil


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

I'm holed up Belhaven, NC at River Forest Marina, which is essentially closed for the season. Temperature today never got much above 40, nasty ride for the past 50 miles, arrived just in time for a 50 knot blow, ice cold rain shower, and falling temperatures. Forecast for tomorrow isn't good, might end up spending another night here.

To top things off, the marina, which normally carries both gas and diesel fuel, doesn't have any gas and won't for at least another two weeks. The next closest place to purchase gasoline is 50 miles farther up the ICW. 

Talked to my loving spouse this evening, she said they got 4 inches of snow at home, most of which was pretty wet. Should melt off by tomorrow with temperatures rising into the lower 50s. Here, we'll be lucky to see 40.

The 5-mile trip across the Pamilico River was pretty nasty, 5 to 7 footers on the beam. The Pungo River was a bit better, just 2 to 4 footers on the nose.  That hot shower and green coconut margaretta were the best things that happened today.

Cheers,

Gary


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Gary,

So, how was the enclosure today? A second to the hot shower and green coconut margaretta?

Stay warm and enjoy the "interesting" weather.

Down


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

travlineasy said:


> To top things off, the marina, which normally carries both gas and diesel fuel, doesn't have any gas and won't for at least another two weeks. The next closest place to purchase gasoline is 50 miles farther up the ICW.


Gary, you might consider moving on a few miles east to Dowry Creek Marina... Sadly, River Forest is really on it's last legs, pitiful end to a Waterway institution, to what used to be one of the most popular stops on the Ditch a couple of decades ago...

Dowry Creek MARINA :: Welcome

You'll be able to get fuel there... It's out of town, but they'll lend you a courtesy car if you need to run errands, go shopping, whatever...

Very friendly folks there, nice little spot, and you'll be very well protected from the NW... If you happen to get stuck there till Wednesday, they'll have a potluck get together of the small community of liveaboards there, and you'll be included... I had a delightful evening one Wednesday last December, one of those typical serendipitous surprises that travel on the ICW routinely serves up...

Good luck, enjoy that greenhouse... (grin)


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

The greenhouse was great today - just not as warm as usual because of the lack of sunshine. It did, however, keep the wind and spray at bay, which was a good thing.

Didn't know about Dowrey Creek Marina, but if I'm stuck, that sounds like a good option.

Thanks Jon,

Gary


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## gershel (Feb 4, 2001)

Hi Gary. I'm enjoying following the posts from you and Jon. Brings back lots of memories. I noticed on ActiveCaptain a new FREE town dock in Bellhaven. Was wondering if you saw it, and if you had any info on it.
Marc


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## Leocat66 (Dec 11, 2010)

Gary, have you ever posted the proper and authentic ingredients and sequence of producing your Blue Coconut Margareta? Myrna and I would like to have the real deal when we toast your adventures tonight. We also wish to add it to our on-board essential cruising information.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Leocat66 said:


> Gary, have you ever posted the proper and authentic ingredients and sequence of producing your Blue Coconut Margareta? Myrna and I would like to have the real deal when we toast your adventures tonight. We also wish to add it to our on-board essential cruising information.


I think this is what you are looking for. I've been tempted too, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gener...lated/92111-favorite-cocktail.html#post922373


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## Leocat66 (Dec 11, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> I think this is what you are looking for. I've been tempted too, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
> 
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gener...lated/92111-favorite-cocktail.html#post922373


Thanks Minnewaska, too late for last night, but not for this coming weekend. Did not remember seeing it here before.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Sorry I didn't have Internet access until now guys, but it appears you have already found the recipe for my Green Coconut Margaretta. 

I'm currently in Coinjock, NC, spending the night at the Coinjock Marina and Restaurant. The food at the restaurant is pretty good, modest prices, lousy crab cakes, but I was really hungry when I arrived so I went for them. 

The marina is top notch, full facility, and right on the ICW, which makes it very convenient. Just another day to Norfolk, then it's probably another four to five days to the top of the Chesapeake and Owens Marina at Perryville, MD. 

In retrospect, I should have planned my trip's departure from home a few weeks earlier, and left Marathon a month later. But, as the saying goes "Hindsight is 20/20."

Had something interesting happen today. The aging Atomic-4 began running a bit hotter than normal and the oil pressure began to fall - not a good sign, especially when you're making your way up a winding, windy, narrow channel with no sailing option because the wind is right on your nose. I checked the raw-water strainer, it looked awful, so I had my sailing buddy stop in mid channel while I rapidly removed the strainer, washed it out and put it back in place - all in less than 30 seconds. The strainer was filled with sea grass, and a half-dozen inch-long shrimp. Two of the shrimp were still alive. 

When I got to the marina, I did a quick oil change, the engine needed it anyhow, the temperature is back to normal, as is the oil pressure. My wife says maybe I'll be back to normal one day, and maybe I need to get the junk and shrimp out of my system and have my oil changed. 

Cheers,

Gary


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

if the temps had gotten hotter.. you might have had steamed shrimp for dinner.. to go with that steamed engine.

Glad you made it ok so far. It won't be long now till you are land bound again


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Well, we finally made it back to the Chesapeake's uppermost reaches at the mouth of the Susquehanna River. The last few days were really rough, incredibly high winds, 30 to 35 knots at times, pushing the bay's waves to well over 5 feet near Chesapeake Beach. By the time we reached the Chesapeake Bay Bridges at Sandy Point the wind completely died, a dense fog set in, and visibility was down to less than 1/4-mile. Made it into Fairlee Creek last night, a cold front blasted through, the fog lifted, sun came out and the winds kicked up again from the south, then went west.

By the time we reached Havre de Grace, MD the winds were woofing at 35 plus from the west, the boat was ripping along at 7.8 to 8.5 MPH and the temperature fell like a stone. It was a real bear getting the sails down, then docking the boat in the old slip, but by 1:30 p.m. the wives were there to greet us, and my good friend Peter arrived with a bottle of champagne to toast the event. 

Overall, the past six months has been incredible. The trip down the ICW, and the return trip, realistically, is better suited for trawlers - not sailboats. More maneuverability, faster speeds, lots of creature comforts, and other than a few locations, you're running the engine about the same amount of time with either craft.

One of the greatest aspects of the trip was the wonderful people I met along the way, and the people of Marathon, Florida. As an entertainer I had fantastic fans, folks that loved my musical performances, and for the most part didn't want me to leave Marathon. Personally, I didn't really want to leave either. 

I really wish my loving wife of more than a half-century could have accompanied me on the trip down and back, but physically, it would have been impossible. However, I fully intend to take her to Marathon next January and spend a couple months there. The difference will be, unfortunately, that we'll drive down, probably rent a house, and still have lots of fun. And yes, I'll most likely take my music gear with me on the trip, and I suspect you'll find me performing at a half-dozen locations in and around Marathon during the brief time we'll be there.

The one thing I discovered is that I'm getting old. At age 72 I made the trip, had a ball, and would love a repeat performance. Unfortunately, there comes a time when you look in the mirror and discover there's an old fart looking back at you.

I guess my sailing days are diminishing to some degree, but as long as I am physically able I will sail the nation's largest estuary - Chesapeake Bay. My plan is to spruce the boat up a bit before the Chesapeake Bay Sailnet Rendezvous in June, and with luck my wife will accompany me on that week-long sojourn down the bay. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I've been extremely fortunate in that I've met so many wonderful people from this forum over the past few years. I could never thank Melissa enough for her help in allowing me to bypass the Georgia segment of the ICW. She's a very talented and gracious lady who is right at the top of my list of incredible people.

Mario and Sherri, both of whom are highly skilled sailors, have been with me through much of the past six months. Not only is Mario is highly-skilled marine and automotive mechanic, he is just an all around nice guy. Sherri can handle a sailboat with the best of them, plus she's a drop-dead gorgeous lady who can really whoop-up on the guys on the softball field.

Sandy and Roger, who also caravaned down the ICW with me, are on constant touch, they traveled from Cleveland to Fort Myers, and are living the life that many, many forum members wish they could mimic.

Captain Aaron, who also frequents this forum, came in for a short visit, and I sincerely wish I could have spent more time with him. I didn't get to meet his dad, but maybe the next trip we can get together. Aaron is incredibly knowledgeable, skippers a tug boat for a living, and is a live-aboard in Key West, FL.

The list of great people is essentially endless, and I sincerely apologize for not listing everyone I encountered. The list is such that it would consume most of the pages of a large book.

So, at this point, the voyage to the sunny shores of Marathon, Florida and back ends. It was a 6-month journey that I'll never forget as long as I have a functional mind. My only regret is not doing this at a much younger age, and I encourage everyone that is remotely considering such a voyage to do so while you still have the strength and health that youth often provides. 

Finally, a big thanks to everyone who has commented on this forum over these many months. I tried to respond to everyone's posts when I could, and with luck I'll be meeting up with some of you in the not too distant future.

Cheers,

Gary


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Congrats on the successful round trip. It was a real inspiration to follow.

One thing is for sure. The earth will continue to orbit the sun and allow for another shot at it. Hope you'll take it.


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## T37SOLARE (Feb 1, 2008)

Gary, 

Congrats! Congrats! Congratulations! 
There and back again!

It is a hell of a trip, but you did it and did it on a schedule and I give you tons of credit especially getting it done this year of crazy weather. This spring is still missing, and I'm starting to think May might be the new March.

Give it some time to settle in, I don't think your sailing days are anywhere near done, just sailing to a schedule might be. 

Looking forward to seeing you out on the water this season!

Congrats again, job well done!


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

welcome home... glad you made it back safe and sound.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Welcome back young man to your home.

Glad you have gotten back safe and sound.

Your 6 month adventure has been one of admiration from me and I enjoyed reading all your threads as well as those who you met down there.

You have a whole slew of stories for us now. And you have a real bed to slew in with your wife and a house to get reaquainted with.

Toast to you Gary////great adventure.

Dave


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

Gary,

Thank you for taking me along on your wonderful adventure. It helped me get through our long Maine winter.

Congratulations!

Down


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

I'll bet that after you're rested, you'll want to do it again instead of feeling too old for it.

You'll probably sail down on the outside, too.


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

Welcome home, Gary - well done...

One thing I'd suggest, is please don't rule out doing it again next year, or at sometime in the future... I think if you could enlist others to accompany you along the way as crew, you'd find it would make that trip FAR less of an ordeal than it can be doing it singlehanded. You no doubt appreciated that, having done some of it with Melissa aboard, that sounded like it turned that leg into a genuine pleasure, instead of the sort of forced march that motoring down the waterway day after day can easily become...

I generally prefer to go it alone, but usually being in a hurry and on a schedule, that's the exception... Plus, I've been doing it that way for so long, I'm simply accustomed to it... But, don't let the toughness of your return trip deter you in the future, the weather over the past 6 weeks or so along the ICW has been highly unusual, one of the worst months of March in recent memory... Push back your return date another month or more, it would likely be a whole different ballgaime... Once the prevailing onshore/southerly quadrant winds start to settle in, coupled with the much longer days in the spring, the trip back north is generally quite pleasurable, and usually easier to complete within a given time frame, than it is in the fall...

In addition, if you can manage to spare the time and dial the pace back a bit more, getting off the Ditch and exploring a bit can make a HUGE difference... Going out to a spot like Cape Lookout Bight, and relaxing/hanging on the hook for a couple of days, can do wonders in terms of 're-charging your batteries'... The North Carolina sounds afford some wonderful opportunities to explore, getting off the ICW route and to a spot like Ocracoke can really enhance the trip, and transform it from being just a delivery, into a real cruise...

Anyway, just food for thought... Enjoy your summer on the bay, but please take the time to mull over the possibility of trying it again in a more relaxed fashion, and speak to friends or folks you might meet about the possibility about coming along for the ride...

And, of course, I'm sure you'd find no shortage of willing volunteers right here on Sailnet, willing to be recruited...

In either case, glad to hear you plan to return to the Keys next winter, it's a wonderful place...


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

Thanks for the great comments, everyone. I'm headed up to the boat to clear out all the gear, refill the gas tank, and meet with the marina owners to set up a date for their summer party where I'm their entertainer.

Sure felt good to sleep in that Sleep Number bed last night,

Gary


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## blutoyz (Oct 28, 2012)

Thanks for letting us tag along...
As a newbie I enjoyed the read and the pics as well.


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

has the land stopped moving yet?


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

mad_machine said:


> has the land stopped moving yet?


Funny you should mention that. I walked down the dock today and darned near fell into the water. I must have looked like someone after a week-long drinking spree. Driving the car after six months was a little unnerving for the first 30 miles or so, but that was mainly because I was no longer accustomed to whackos that consider stop signs and red lights nothing more than suggestions. 

Cheers,

Gary


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## Leocat66 (Dec 11, 2010)

Gary, Never give up, we all, at least those of us who are getting up there, have those same feelings after a long pleasurable but difficult sail, especially on the return leg. You sounded so very positive going south and have inspired so many of us who have not had the time or funds to take on such an adventure. You are still an inspiration to those who are thought to be members of the Over The Hill Gang. My money is on you Gary, you will sail south again. Your are still that same person who headed south on the beginning leg.

Had a very good friend years ago who is no longer with us. He was 84 when we met him in 1987, still single handed to Mexico and the Bahamas until he was in his mid 90's. His wife would fly down to meet him. What an amazing fellow Avery Katz was. He told me that he too saw that aging old fart in the mirror after each voyage.

Would hope to still, some day, experience that which yon have accomplished. Thank You Gary for sharing with us all.


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## momclarissa (Aug 13, 2009)

Welcome home, Gary! We really enjoyed reading your blog and look forward to seeing you again at the Rendevous. Thank you so much for sharing your adventures with us. 

Clarissa & Jim


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## Capt. Gary Randall (Jun 1, 2012)

Gary, I don't know about you, but it seems really odd that drinking seems to cure sea legs.?Hmmm, lol. glad you made it back and thanks for sharing your voyage and pictures. CaptG


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## Melrna (Apr 6, 2004)

Welcome back home! Your adventure over the last 6 months will give you reflection for eternity. Thank you for sharing with me a small part of that experience. Cheers
Raises a Green Coconut Margarita 
Love
Melissa


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

I just fired up the gas log fireplace in the basement - damned it's cold outside. The thermometer on the deck says 39 degrees - sure would like those numbers to be 40 degrees higher. After getting 85 percent of the gear off the boat today it became apparent that I have a lot of work to do in order to make it pretty again. I just ordered some non-skid for the decks (Kiwi-Grip), and I already have a couple quarts of white epoxy paint for the other surfaces that need lots of attention. Even the woodwork looks nasty, so I guess is better check my polyurethane supply, too.

The cabin sole is looking a bit worse for wear, so I'll likely sand the cabin's flooring and pretty it up as well. I hate the dinette table, always have. Think I'll pick up a slab of black walnut from the saw mill, have it planed and make a neat, custom table in the shape of a wooden hatch cover. Something about 4 inches thick from a single slab of wood of about 3 X 5 feet. I've made these in the past and they really look great when properly finished.

Hope to see everyone at the upcoming rendezvous,

Gary


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