# Difference between alcohol & kerosene stove?



## UsailIbail!

Hi all,
I am starting a 9 year restoration of a steel yacht which currently has LPG fuel systems on board which I plan on discarding. I sailed for a few years with a wonderful European kerosene stove (which I am trying to find something similar). In my search, I have come across a handful of alcohol stoves. Do these stoves run on the same principal as kerosene and perhaps with only a change of jetting will work w/ kerosene? I don't want to be foolish with a conversion, but if it is a standard swap I will entertain the idea.

A used taylor cooker (030L) or something similar would be ideal. Any thoughts on an excellent model? I will make a purchase now if I find the right stove.

Also wondering about converting my LPG stove w/ Primus type burners. But that may be foolish. 

Thanks.

Jay


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## WanderingStar

That is a beautiful boat.
I've never used either alcohol or kerosene stoves, but they must at least have different burners. Also you might have to change any gaskets if you switch fuels. 
Tell us about the boat.


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## deniseO30

No reason to remove the lpg systems..if your scared of it make sure you have proper solenoid and sniffers in the system. In all cases you should have carbon monoxide detectors 
9 years???? I should live so long!

interesting contrast in the photos.. wish you well!


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## Capt Len

I much prefer the kerosene primus type.over alcohol. If you've already learned the fine points of operation you are already ahead of the fleet. Safer too. Kerosene burners are cheap and available in India (internet) I preheat with a handheld propane torch to reduce the fumes. LPG is is so handy and effective though.


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## travlin-easy

I found the alcohol stove I had, which was a bit different, was very efficient for cooking. It used cotton-wicked canisters, which provided an even flame and no possibility of a flareup or spill. The flame was regulated by a flat plate that snuffed out either a portion of the flame for lower heat, or covered the canister completely, which snuffed out the flame altogether. The cost of denatured alcohol, however, is pretty high.

Now I have LP, it's very safe when you have a solenoid and sniffer installed, as posted above. A 20-pound propane gas tank will last you most of a year if you're cooking on the stove-top several days a week. The LP gas oven consumes a lot more, but I don't know of an alcohol or kerosene oven.

I did a bit of research and found the old stove I had. It was made by Origo and gimbled. Here's a photo of the stove.










Good luck, and the restoration looks great,

Gary


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## Faster

We lived with a pressurized alcohol stove (similar in principle to kerosene - ie preheat/light/use) for 10 years or so. Finally switched to Propane and never looked back. Used with common sense, a good appliance and good practice it's quite safe. Aside from ease of lighting and faster cooking, the fumes and high cost of the proper fuel was a major PITA with the pressure alcohol.

We've sailed with friends who use the wick type alcohol stove like Gary posted above, they are a much better idea, but still slower than propane and somewhat less convenient. However they do lack the power draw that a proper solenoid-equipped propane system has.

But we'd never go back to a pressurized system that required pre heating etc like kero or alcohol.


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## dacap06

Denise, I hope you meant a CO detector, no a CO2 detector! Otherwise, the .04% CO2 in ambient air would be setting it off all the time.


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## UsailIbail!

Thanks for your replies. There is no question that I will be ripping the LPG system out - for many reasons, firstly being availability of LPG worldwide. I plan on departing the US within months of launching and kero or diesel is everywhere. Secondly, I am familiar with many deaths and injuries from LPG - as a full time firefighter I see its effects all the time. There is an entire house missing less than one mile down the street from my home... few pieces found were larger than 4' x 4'!. You can have all the LPG in your enclosed space that you like and you can depend on all the electronics you can muster to keep an eye on you. Salt air kills electronics, LPG kills boats. Don't mean to be rude here... just clear. Forgive me.

Flare ups on the kero stove were always entertaining - but never much more than that.

Thanks for the thoughts on the alcohol stove. The 38'er that I lived on nearly burned to the ground from an alcohol fire prior to my purchasing it. The owner was a world sailor who had a bad day with his stove. He was severely burned in the event. The reason I mention alcohol stoves is only to consider them as a unit to change over to kero. I am wondering at this point if anyone can target that question specifically. Thanks! I hope you don't think I am rude in this post. I am just clear that I love the kero! Yup! I hadn't mentioned that the same fuel line may go to my heater, pending the stove does not have one built in.

Jay


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## HipToBeSquare

Is this what you had in mind? DickinsonMarine.com - Marine Stoves


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## UsailIbail!

yes, that is very much what I have in mind. However, the price tag is not in my league. I am not wealthy.. but I am very handy brazing, fitting, welding, etc. That is why I purchased this vessel in the condition that it is in. The vessel is an extraordinary hull built in Holland that needs a whole lot of work - but in the end she will again be a fine yacht. There is no other way I could do this... 

Back to the stove... I am looking for a very nice stove that I can afford. That is why I am asking about the alcohol stoves... I have seen a handful out there that look very well built and will increase the end value of this rebuild. My question remains... can an alcohol stove be readily refit into a kerosene? or are they completely different.

Thanks for the chatter. More is welcome... still don't have this figured out. For reference, I am looking at spending a couple of hundred bucks for a refitable sleeper somewhere.. I have nothing but time to find it, but I still need to know what is worth looking into.

Thanks!

Jay


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## erps

> My question remains... can an alcohol stove be readily refit into a kerosene? or are they completely different.


I've converted two alcohol stoves over to propane, but not to Kerosene. It was trial and error on the first one, drilling extra holes in the diffuser cup until I got a nice flame. If I were in your shoes, I'd get a free alcohol stove from someone, take it to the shop, pour kerosene in it and see if it works and then start making adjustments from there. Alcohol stoves are pretty cheap around here because folks are pulling them out in favor of something else. When you find something that works, get the alcohol stove you like and then apply what you learned.


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## Capt Len

The Dickenson carb can run well on light stove oil or diesel. Never tried it on kero .The primus preheat burner types tend not to like the heavy stuff and will require a lot deckhead cleaning. Price of fuel keeps me heating with wood and cooking with barbi on deck or electric below .If plugged in ,easy. If cruising may have to plan a bit and run the Kybota for galley, freezer and recharge.It also can haul the anchor (hydraulic) so my life is full of executive decisions but the best is the Panasonic microwave /convection oven. If I save 10 bucks a day to not run the Atlantic stove unless it's a cold ,dark and stormy night i've got my Appletons for free.


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## Capt Len

I don't see any reason why new Primus burners couldn't replace the guts in a nice pressure alcohol stove (if you go for kero) The boat stuff stores here are full of Dickinson stoves as everybody went to propane.


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## UsailIbail!

erps, great video! A whale under the keel.... explain that feeling to the nautically challenged! Wonderful...

In following everyones thoughts further it occurred to me that the way to look at this is; in an ideal world (for my boat anyways) I'd love to try diesel for the main fuel for everything. My history with kero has been favorable and I have wondered about using straight diesel, but I have never seen it in use for a stove or heater. My boat is certainly tanked for it. In thinking about this does anyone have any experience with diesel for the stove fuel? I am used to the obvious fume issue from kero... I wonder if diesel is much different?

The thoughts you have posted are steering me toward looking for a used alcohol stove and converting it. Looking further into that would anyone know of a PROVEN REPUTABLE dealer for the primus parts for kero and also a link to parts or information for diesel stoves?

Thanks! 
Sail on!

ps. this photo is of Aperio after she first arrived from Florida last November. My son (14 y.o) and I are just finishing the site work for the roof structure under which she will live for the refit. Hope to have the roof up within a month or so.

J.


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## tdw

The biggest problem you would have with running diesel through a kerosene stove is the smell and the fumes. With the burners set for kero they would go apeshite if you loaded them up with diesel and the soot would probably drive you from the boat. 

That is not to say that a properly configured diesel stove is smelly or dirty. 

I'd be interested to know where you intend sailing ? Reason for asking is twofold. First, if you intend heading for warmer climes then for mine a diesel or kero stove would be damned uncomfortable to live with , even LPG heats a cabin up in summer and secondly why do you think LPG is difficult to obtain outside of the USA ? In our part of the world LPG is probably the most common fuel for on board use and in SE Asia and the Oceanian Islands it is replacing or indeed has replaced most other portable fuel sources and in ten years time it will be even more firmly entrenched than now.


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## deniseO30

UsailIbail! said:


> My question remains... can an alcohol stove be readily refit into a kerosene? or are they completely different.


NO.  only way it could work is to scavenge the burner/s out of a kerosene heater. It's a cage burner that super heats the kero as it wicks up to the burner ring.


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## MARC2012

If the alcohol stove is the optimus/primus burner only need to change jets.orfice.


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## SVTatia

Usail

I also lived with Kerosene on my previous boat for many years without any problems. A 20 liter jug lasted many months. Available anywhere there is an airport. I had a pressurized tank that needed pumping (bicycle pump) twice a week and filling once a month out of the jug. This is for everyday cooking. No soot, no flare ups, no smell and a tiny bit of alcohol to preheat on any weather. Never had to clean the burners. Had blue flame all the time.
The only problem I ever had was a bad purchase of dirty Kero from a fisherman supplier in the Azores, cause I was lazy to go to the airport - jet fuel is very clean kerosene.
I converted my stove from a Shipmate alcohol, but I bought a conversion kit which included the manifold and four burners (1 for the oven) from Force Ten out in Vancouver Canada, they used to make conversion kits.
I wish I had a picture of the manifold - I wonder if it was a basic distribution. The burners I bought were made by Patria, in Portugal and I found they are still sold here:
Patria 207 Regulating Burner Kerosene / Alc. (Portugal) [Patria Part #207K/207A] - $75.00 : A & H Enterprises, A & H Enterprises is the only North American service center for Optimus and Svea stoves.

At $75, pricey, but unlike the gas one, they last forever.

If you find a way to build the manifold, please let me know as I am also thinking about going back to kerosene.


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## MastUndSchotbruch

UsailIbail! said:


> Thanks for your replies. There is no question that I will be ripping the LPG system out - for many reasons, firstly being availability of LPG worldwide. I plan on departing the US within months of launching and kero or diesel is everywhere. Secondly, I am familiar with many deaths and injuries from LPG - as a full time firefighter I see its effects all the time. There is an entire house missing less than one mile down the street from my home... few pieces found were larger than 4' x 4'!. You can have all the LPG in your enclosed space that you like and you can depend on all the electronics you can muster to keep an eye on you. Salt air kills electronics, LPG kills boats. Don't mean to be rude here... just clear. Forgive me.
> 
> Flare ups on the kero stove were always entertaining - but never much more than that.
> 
> Thanks for the thoughts on the alcohol stove. The 38'er that I lived on nearly burned to the ground from an alcohol fire prior to my purchasing it. The owner was a world sailor who had a bad day with his stove. He was severely burned in the event. The reason I mention alcohol stoves is only to consider them as a unit to change over to kero. I am wondering at this point if anyone can target that question specifically. Thanks! I hope you don't think I am rude in this post. I am just clear that I love the kero! Yup! I hadn't mentioned that the same fuel line may go to my heater, pending the stove does not have one built in.
> 
> Jay


Thank you for the first-hand report on the effects of propane. I am absolutely with you there. As some propane-proponent said earlier in this thread, when used correctly propane is 'quite safe.' Sorry, that does not cut it for me! It is my life and that of my family that is at stake, 'quite safe' is not good enough!

The only reason for the popularity of propane that I can see is that it is just as at home. I admit I have used propane, on charter boats where I had no choice, but there is no way I am going to give up my kerosene stove on my own boat.

Finally, to your question: The answer is an unqualified YES. If you have a pressurized alcohol stove (we are obviously not talking about the wicked versions), the only thing you have to change are the burners. I have a converted pressurized alcohol stove myself that I run for more than 10 years now.

And, for the nay-sayers, a properly tuned and operated kerosene stove does NOT smell. And even though kero (paraffine, jet fuel, ...) is available world-wide and incredibly cheap, this is not the reason why I use it, it is the inherent safety of the fuel.


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## UsailIbail!

Thank you all very much. Your replies give me a very solid start and now at least I have an idea what direction I can move in.

I did not know about the aviation fuel being kerosene... a very good thing to know!

To answer the question where am I going with this vessel? The short answer is that after a few deaths of my closest friends recently I realized that prior to leaving this wonderful planet for good, I would very much like to at least see it. I have read many of the books written by those who have managed to make the trip in a way similar to my requirements (not much cash, but fairly handy with the tools). Previously, I lived on my wooden double ender between Maine (USA) and South America. I tried to talk my fiance into making the big loop and she didn't have any interest. She is still of the same opinion. But I came to realize that now is the time for me to go... on my own if need be. I only hope I am able to survive long enough to complete the event! Departing when the kids are old enough to make the decision whether or not they want to climb aboard. Sure hope they do! Not many others I know understand the drive... it is so strong I am not able to describe it.

Life is not just 'good'.... it's awesome.

Sail on!


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## MARC2012

Do not confuse aviation gas with jp4*(jet fuel).TRhe gas is VERY high octane>The burners are now aprox $108.with shipping.marc


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## deniseO30

All this seat of the pants combustion engineering  kinda bothers me. I've been around fuel burning equipment all my life.. I know enough about all kinds of burners to NOT be trying to do things when properly engineered fuel burning equipment is out there. Any fuel that has reached a burner is GAS.. how it's made and delivered to the BURNER is the reason people and property *get hurt *and damaged. Canister gas equipment is safe.. the people using it aren't.. fuel oil burning equipment has dangers also.. they just don't fail as easy to "operator error" If someone has to carry small torches or some kind of lighting fluid to light a preheater for a fuel oil burner.. the danger is about the same as having lpg on board...less the lpg sniffer, solenoid.. of course no one has ever forgot to turn the valve off after using a hand held torch. set a candle on a paper plate...made a torch out of rolled up paper... all things that caused safety engineers to develop flame sensors, thermocouples, fire eyes. (photocell) pre and post purging draft...

People please? ... just buy or obtain properly designed fuel burning equipment.. why be doing things half A$$ just to save a few bucks? You don't really think the insurance company won't find the cobbled equipment if the boat burns to the water line do you? Insurance companies are in business to NOT pay out money.. would you design a MOB system to save a few bucks and take your family out in questionable weather?

I'm not trying attack anyone.. I'm just saying.. please think. before you start modifying fuel burning equipment.. I know it all looks simple.


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## UsailIbail!

Seriously... Denise,
You are correct... I could purchase a new-in-the-box diesel stove for $3,000.00 and have it installed by a "professional" for another $1,200.00 at the marina while tied up the their dock for $60.00 a day. Or, as I look at it, I can find a beautiful used stainless stove box for a couple of hundred bucks, install a nice burner system all cleanly welded and joined by yours truly, build a beautiful 3 gallon reservoir for the fuel and sail off the hook with an extra $3,500.00 in the cruising kitty. In the end, I know the entire system and can repair any part of it anywhere in the world. 

Having said that, placing your faith in todays engineers and insurance companies is not for me. Having them around is one thing, even handy at times. But.... 

Sail on!


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## deniseO30

I think if I were going for diesel stove.. I'd give Wallas a serious looking over.


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## deniseO30

*Seriously... Denise,
You are correct... I could purchase a new-in-the-box diesel stove for $3,000.00 and have it installed by a "professional" for another $1,200.00 at the marina while tied up the their dock for $60.00 a day. *

:laugher Not what I was saying all.. I'm just asking everyone to be careful :laugher


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## Capt Len

There must be some advantage in developing a resume of skills and abilities over a long period of personal growth. Includes caution and common sense. Doing it right and knowing it's right can get you sailing (watch for reefs ,rocks and hubris) For some, waiting for a poorly skilled technician and writing cheques would appear to be the way to get the dream boat out of the boatyard. Each to their own.


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## deniseO30

Lol Capt Len.. Again, I'm just urging people to be careful.


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## deniseO30

I don't think I said anywhere in my ramblings; "pay a professional" Because Most people that can DIY never would in most cases.


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## dacap06

I'm with Denise on this one. 

A modicum of caution is in order when trying to re-engineer devices for combustion. My hope is that modicum of caution includes devices such as CO alarms and handy fire extinguishers. One hopes never to hear the former nor need the latter.

Tom


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## Leocat66

We use and have always used a Taylors 030 brass and stainless, kero two burner with oven. No propane or LPG on-board. We have used propane torch in the past to light the burners, but no more propane below decks, ever. Taylors / kero is as safe as it gets and the stove is simply a work of art, old school quality at its finest.


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## deniseO30

Leocat and they are apparently still in business Home


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## cktalons

SVTatia said:


> Usail
> 
> I also lived with Kerosene on my previous boat for many years without any problems. A 20 liter jug lasted many months. Available anywhere there is an airport. I had a pressurized tank that needed pumping (bicycle pump) twice a week and filling once a month out of the jug. This is for everyday cooking. No soot, no flare ups, no smell and a tiny bit of alcohol to preheat on any weather. Never had to clean the burners.


I don't want to hijack this thread away from its original purpose, so could someone PM me about getting rid of the kerosene odor? I have a Shipmate stove/oven pressurized system. I cleaned the burners regularly, and I believe it has a filter, but the system reeks when used. Since I lived with I couldn't detect the odor, but my family told me I smelled like rat poison. The odor permeated my clothes, sheets, books, everything on the boat. I've stopped using the stove and oven because of it, but if there is a way to make the smell disappear entirely, I may go back to using it. If not, I'll take it out of the boat and put it up for sale.


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## deniseO30

Not knowing your burner design I don't know If I can help much. You said it's pressurized so I guess you have residue inside the super heater (generator) tubes.. which could be the burners also. the fuel has to reach really high temps to vaporize into gas. Pics would help allot.


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## MastUndSchotbruch

deniseO30 said:


> Not knowing your burner design I don't know If I can help much. You said it's pressurized so I guess you have residue inside the super heater (generator) tubes.. which could be the burners also. the fuel has to reach really high temps to vaporize into gas. Pics would help allot.


Agree. Properly gassified kerosene has no smell when burnt. This is very different from wicked kerosene (pun intended), like in a regular oil lamp, which definitely smells.


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## cktalons

All right, photos are here. If you need to see a photo of a specific thing, please let me know. I'm hoping you guys can help me keep this system. I'm anxious to bake something...


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## Capt Len

Make sure it's actually light weight kerosene and not something like stove oil or diesel. Available is nosmell lamp oil and a kerosene called 'deodorized spray base' Just a thought. I simply waited it out, got old, lost my sense of smell. No problem, even personal hygiene has become optional. Preheat is everything. maybe wrong burners made for naptha or alcohol.Or pressure in tank too low.


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## deniseO30

Cortney, I found this source for parts.. well the burners.. still researching how to's..
The burners were most likely made by primus

Kerosene Presser Lamps Parts







\

Anyway.. educated guessing here.... but I'm thinking the "needle valve" is controlled by the knob. The pressurized fuel (be sure it's crystal clear, clean kero, per captn Len) is metered into the tube or generator at the burner.. the cup like thingy is for a starting fluid or gel (a must have) because that burner has to be preheated.

The burner generator *must be hot*.. hot enough to turn the fuel into gas (this is a barrel like part of the burner or a tube on some other types (coleman lanterns have a tube) as this happens, the fuel will eventually leave residue inside the tube and needle valve. Sadly. these burners work best on "high".. if they are set lower.. they may start to smell and make soot. any flame less then blue would be the indicator. The fuel pressure is very important.. still haven't found what it should be at. Higher is better for sure.


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## Capt Len

Although others on this forum have naysayed using a propane torch for pre heating (safety reasons), for years I successfully used one instead of methol hydrate in the preheat cup. Just filling it with kerosene and turning it on before it burns out will work but that really smells big. Timing is all. Gotta be hot and stay hot. Learn how to run low speed after you learn HOT.Clean fuel Good pressure ,hot preheat.


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## UsailIbail!

Hi cktalons,

No problem hijacking this thread. Any and all discussion of these stoves is welcome. I started the thread because I know little about the alcohol and diesel stoves and am comparing them to kerosene. I have learned a bunch about the alc and diesel burners thanks to this forum. What I CAN address is your kerosene troubles - I lived with a beautiful kerosene stove / heater that had the same burners as yours (at least as far as I could tell by your photos). Unfortunately, I sold the stove with that boat - how I miss it! Now if I could only get a stove that nice again for my new boat (hence my desire for education about alternatives).

In short - to run a kerosene burner; I kept a chemists squeeze bottle that only held a about 10 ounces of alcohol to prime the burners (small bottle for safety). Filling the heater cup about 1/8 full was fine, it needed to heat for about 1 minute with open alcohol flame before turning the kerosene knob on at all. DO NOT PRE-HEAT WITH KEROSENE! That would cause such a smokey mess! After the full pre heat turn the burner on and it should light off of the last alcohol in the cup. If you miss the golden window of that, have another ignition source to light the kerosene burner asap at this time. You only have a few seconds before the burners pre-heat is lost. The advice that was given previously that (more pressure in the system is better" is a disaster in the making. You often hear of sensational flair-ups while starting these burners... I have to think too much pressure is responsible for most of these these. A flare up is fairly common when you have not pre-heated enough... but they are not a source of hyped concern. When you have a nice flame one day (blue with very little or no yellow) see how far you can let the pressure dwindle to before it does turn yellow and then just operate a handful of psi over that (give the system a few pumps). If you are not able to get good flame check that all of the tiny holes are open that the gas spreads out through... you can use a needle file to clean them out and the cleaner they are the more efficient your burner will be. You DO NOT NEED ANY REFINED, OR SPECIAL KEROSENE. A regular grade is fine. But beware that the poorer the grade the more your burners will foul and require maintenance. You really should read about this and be able to pull the burners apart fully for cleaning.... if you are not able to obtain a nice flame from this information. 
If your tanks don't leak and you run a clean flame your family will not know what you heat with. Be sure to toss a CO detector in your boat - carbon monoxide is deadly and nothing to mess with.... you clearly have a problem if your clothes smell and I am seriously concerned for your life. Get it straight and enjoy your stove. It is a nice one! 

Good luck.

Sail on!

Jay


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## deniseO30

Jay, if your going to quote me please quote me in context. Thanks.

Some one must KNOW what pressure is appropriate. Higher would be better imho because one would get better atomization at the needle valve when the fuel is still cold.

_
"The fuel pressure is very important.. still haven't found what it should be at. Higher is better for sure. "_


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## cktalons

I've not used my kerosene stove/oven in months, but when I did, I always preheated the burners with denatured alcohol to heat it up. I never heated it with the kerosene. On the occasion I had flare ups it was due to not quite enough alcohol on the burner. My flames were usually blue, and I kept the pressure tank at a medium, not ever high. I cleaned regularly.

I suspect most of the odor came from the electric heater I ran, which simply takes air and passes it over hot coils. Something about the heater in combination with the fumes of kerosene made the smell worse. No one could ever smell the chemical odor on my person in the summer months, when I didn't have the electric heater. Also, I always vent my boat when an open flame is present, and I do the same now. I know about the dangers of CO monoxide, about open flames, etc.

Though I'm cautious about conventional wisdom and groupthink, I have to wonder about kerosene as a heating fuel. It's efficient and it's the hottest fuel one can burn, so why are modern boats equipped with the volatile propane instead? I don't think it's just about the quick ignition time. The more I used my kerosene, the less I smelled it burning. In fact I couldn't smell it at all. I have to admit, boys and girls, I'm wondering if many of the kerosene users out there have just stopped smelling it...Get a new nose on board your boat and demand honesty from them.

It's taken a while to get the odor out of the boat and out of my stuff, again probably exacerbated by the electric heater blowing the odor all around. But perhaps a short, quick experiment is required: after a thorough cleaning of the burners, and after opening every hatch and window this boat has, and running a small fan to move fresh air around, I'll ignite a burner and boil water, taking some of the suggestions posted here. Then I'll shut it off, and have someone else over to the boat to see if they can detect the smell after the burner has been shut off. The more one is around a smell, the less one detects it, so I need an outsider's sniffer.

I'll post the results here.


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## deniseO30

Ah! cortney when ever fumes from oils are heated by a heater like the electric. Like if you ever painted with oil based paints in a house and then used the gas or electric stove. you notice a rotten kind of smell? that's the reaction of the fumes with the heat source. Not often dangerous but it's a rotten smell. You will want to get your boat smells under control. hope you don't have a leaky tank somewhere. 

Propane systems have lots and lots of safety controls, most are simple. Thing is most accidents can usually be traced to "human error" It's convenient on diesel engine boats. On gasoline engine boats... it's way more dangerous if there's a leak. 
Point is, no fuel should be leaking anywhere on a boat. It takes less then a minute to make sure all propane equipment is off and valves closed before getting under way on my boat. It's just common sense.


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## cktalons

Denise, yeah, that's why I stopped using the kerosene in winter, because I wanted my little electric heater to keep warm. Once I stopped running my stove, the smell dissipated. But I have a hankering to bake something yummy and want my oven back, but I'm afraid of smelling like rat poison and not knowing it! And oh how much easier my life would be if my existing system worked and I didn't have to rip it out and install a propane tank locker, run lines through my boat, and on and on.

I hear you about the propane issue being a human error thing. That's true of most accidents. I have a great respect for dangerous things, propane and electricity among them. I have a diesel engine (thank the gods!) so it wouldn't be as dangerous. I don't want to die, I'm careful.

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice. I'll be conducting Operation No Smell in a few days.


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## deniseO30

Only a few drops of diesel or kero will smell for a very long time and it's enough to react with any kind of heat source. I've varnished things in the basement of my house and when cooking dinner later in the kitchen the rotten smell would be awful! I put the tank outside the stern rail and remove when underway, no locker. You might think about a hatch/vent/fan right over the stove area..


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## cktalons

Hmmm... My companionway hatch is right there, but a little drop fan and vent would be good, too. There's a light over the stove now, so I could wire in a fan no problem. Good idea!


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## deniseO30

cool! just remember fans don't really remove odors.. so that garlic, bacon and or coffee cooking up will waft through the whole boat..  maybe even the "neighborhood" like when I make french onion soup LOL


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## Capt Len

There are kerosene bulkhead fastened heaters (same burner as galley stove) properly stack vented, they use existing fuel system, warm boat and get bad fumes up the chimney.Best, it allows you time away from the dock.


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## deniseO30

From using Coleman stoves for years most of the smell came after shutting down the burners if I remember right.


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## cktalons

I pumped up the tank to 12 psi (15 is highest) and lit the burners yesterday. They were yellow, so burners need replacing, and not large. As planned, I opened all windows and hatches to vent the boat, but still got a headache from the kerosene fumes. The smell wasn't that bad, and in fact never bothered me much anyway (smells like lighter fluid), but this is the first time I got a headache, perhaps because it's been so long since running the system. Because of the fumes, I'm now back to Plan A of selling the entire system and eventually putting in propane. The kerosene tank holds, best guess, ten gallons and there's an electric pump for it if one would rather not pump by hand. I live in WA so I have no idea what the shipping charge would be. Anyone interested in buying and fixing up the stove/oven? PM me if so.


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## deniseO30

gotta be residue inside the tubes, needle valve is most likely coked up too.


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## cktalons

Is that fixable without having to purchase new parts?


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## deniseO30

I would think so! but I'd want to have the parts needed for routine service. Specially the graphite packing. This may or may not be the stove you have but this company seems to have the parts and information. ck here. Forum Index - Classic Camp Stoves - Powered by FusionBB








Optimus 207b burner exploded view


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## MARC2012

A&H Enterprises has all parts except cleaner.Have taken mine apart & will explain procedure if you need.Will be in port next day or two.


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## Leocat66

I run my Taylor's burners at 20 -22 PSI. Nice blue flame not much smell factor. The newer burners are said to tolerate up to 24 PSI.


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