# Single line reefing question



## rbyham (Dec 25, 2012)

I have my single line set up exactly like this picture
Barton Marine - Tech Info - Block Systems - Single line reefing

While it is nice to think all can be run to cockpit and be handled with one line, I am finding it to be challenging. When I reef, I drop the main halyard to a marked point and then tighten on reefing line. What happens is that the luff edge tightens up very nicely but the leech does not tighten proportionately so I end up with a tight tack but the clew needs manual help to be sheeted in tight. I have been careful to get angels just as in the picture but still, once the tack is tight, clew still requires taking up about 6 inches more to be sheeted properly. I am considering going with two line system as that is essentially what I end up doing anyway. But thought I would ask here to see if I am missing something obvious. Thanks.


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## rbyham (Dec 25, 2012)

I should have added that one adjustment I have made to the diagram is to install blocks at the cringles instead of just running through cringles. I thought this would reduce friction and make it all work... alas. :-(


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

You're not missing anything. 2 line reefing is better for the sail and often faster to accomplish.

Good information here reefing


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

Single line reefing can work well, you just need to reduce the friction.

The greatest source of friction is from having a double braid line going through the cringles on the sail. There are two ways to make it better, doing both of them gives the best result. The first is using dyneema for the portion that runs through the cringles (you'll have to splice this to doublebraid where you cleat it off, or start with a dyneema core double braid and strip the cover where the line runs along the sail).

The second is using a block (or Antal-style low friction ring) instead of the cringle. An easy way to do this is to put a ring on one side of the sail, an Antal ring on the other side of the sail, and connect them with a piece of sewn webbing (sail makers call that a "dog-bone") or soft shackle. The other advantage of using a block or low friction ring is that both sides of the reefing line run on one side of the sail, they won't crush and chafe the sail when reefed.

I have single line reefing on my boat and with those two improvements it works very well. If you run your halyards back to the cockpit then I find well implemented single line reefing to make more sense then running 4 lines (vs 2 lines) back to the cockpit to support two reefs. If you run your halyard to the mast then normal jiffy reefing for the clew and a hook for the tack works great. 

The rigging work for good single line reefing takes a little bit more time, but it's worth it. I think most people who say single line reefing doesn't work have never tried it when it's been rigged this way.


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

Tensioning both the luff and leach of the sail against the main halyard is a tall order for the single line reefing system.

I suggest lowering the main halyard past the required point, reefing the sail, then tensioning the main halyard again as the last step.

Does this give you a better set on the leech? If not, time for 2 line reefing.


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## deltaten (Oct 10, 2012)

I'm still "lashed to the mast", not having (yet?) run the main halyard to the 'pit. May I assume that I can reverse the line and do a 'single line reef' from the mast? 
I *do* have one o'them block/track dealies on theaft end of the boom; but nevercould figger out how to rig it (too damm'd many confusticatin' leetle cluched sheaves in the neck of the boom!). 
The linked pic helped a lot, and thanx for the "dog-bone" trick..sounds like it would help a lot!


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

The problem with single line - aside from the issue you're already having with excess friction in the system - is that you're expecting the same line tension requirement for both luff and clew - and often that's not going to be the case.. 2 line systems avoid the friction issue, leaves shorter tails in the cockpit, and allow you to easily set each at the tension they require.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Have single line reefing for first two reefs and double for third. Friction is the enemy but totally delighted with single line. Several things are important and have been mentioned.
1. use dyneema or other low friction line.
2.have blocks sewed in at both points. Can leave cringles but with blocks attached that way they won't twist and will always have the correct angle. Mainsail was built with intention of single line reefing so re enforcements done to permit it. Did have traditional cringes put in (belt and suspenders thinking).
3. try to have the least angle in your deck mounted hardware or direct runs to the line clutches. High angles increase friction significantly.
4. Pull in the reefs as you ease the halyard. Often its the totally slack loops of line flopping around that are creating unnecessary friction. That way less opportunity for twisted lines and hang ups. I can do reefs quickly with A.P. on or wheel brake with one hand on halyard and other on reef line.
5. Have Dutchman on main and have fully battened main. Sail "automatically" drops correctly. Lines don't foul and folded portion lies correctly on boom.
6. Get all pressure off main as you reef. Let it flog a bit. Ease mainsheet and head up enough for this to occur. I can reef easily on a reach if the sheet is truly let loose.

On my boat I can pull in reef by hand down to the last little bit and only need the winch to get the sail nice and flat. Think a lot of the bad press on single line reefing is due to folks not trying to eliminate friction in each part of the system. Hope that helps.


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## PCP (Dec 1, 2004)

rbyham said:


> .. What happens is that the luff edge tightens up very nicely but the leech does not tighten proportionately so I end up with a tight tack but the clew needs manual help to be sheeted in tight...


Try to lift the boom with a topping lift (run to the cockpit) while you reef and than you will have control regarding the proportionality between the two lines going in. That happens (the luff going faster) because on the luff there is less pressure while the weight of the boom and the wind on the sail makes more force on the clew line.

It had worked for me on the several 2 lines systems I have used.

Regards

Paulo


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Paulo is right. Adjusting topping lift is the first step.


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

outbound said:


> Paulo is right. Adjusting topping lift is the first step.


Adjusting the topping lift might be a necessary step but only if the topping lift is not already carrying the boom as the halyard is eased.

Tensioning the topping lift to raise the boom has some risk, you should only do it if essential. The issue being, if the topping lift is not reset after the reef is in, there's a chance to break something when you next trim the main closehauled.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

SF - you're right but find get the tack fairly tight first makes the line run smoother as the leech is totally loose. Even if you forget to ease it the leech remains open after the reef to remind you to let down the topping lift. I just tighten it a smidge so ( knock on wood) haven't broken anything yet.
Don't fully get the concern about long tails. With double line get two clutches, two tails and twice the opportunity for folks to pull the wrong line at night if they are not well familiar with the boat and positions of the clutches. Coastal don't rig the third reef as don't want that much string hanging on the sail so use the clutches for other things ( spin halyard etc.). Can be confusing. Tails just get flaked and dumped under the dodger anyways.


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## rbyham (Dec 25, 2012)

Will experiment with topping lift which by the way when I stepped the mast last March, I forgot to run in advance. Bummer. Have not yet made going up the mast part of my first year learning curve. Oh well it may be time to go up, rig the topping lift, check rigging, and do a couple other things... Thanks all!


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## Zarathu (May 26, 2014)

Have no idea what this means:

*"The second is using a block (or Antal-style low friction ring) instead of the cringle. An easy way to do this is to put a ring on one side of the sail, an Antal ring on the other side of the sail, and connect them with a piece of sewn webbing (sail makers call that a "dog-bone") or soft shackle. The other advantage of using a block or low friction ring is that both sides of the reefing line run on one side of the sail, they won't crush and chafe the sail when reefed."*

Can somone post a photo?

Could you simply not just put a teflon spray lubrication on the reefing line now and then at all the critical parts, for example: http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963-D00110101_0__?productId=1059839


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## Barquito (Dec 5, 2007)

See Knuterikt's setup in this thread (is actually for a cunningham, I think):

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/116306-low-friction-rings-single-line-reefing.html


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

That is an Antal ring dogboned to another stainless ring using a soft shackle (a too long for the job soft shackle, but it works).

The one part of this photo that I don't like is the load that is placed on the mast-mounted padeye.


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## knuterikt (Aug 7, 2006)

Alex W said:


> That is an Antal ring dogboned to another stainless ring using a soft shackle (a too long for the job soft shackle, but it works).
> 
> The one part of this photo that I don't like is the load that is placed on the mast-mounted padeye.


The block from Sparcraft in this picture is the lead for my tack reefing line (two line reefing setup). This block give little friction and good lead, the rope go down to a mast base block.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

I have to agree with two line the set up that Knuterikt is showing. I have never seen a single-line reefing system that really works properly. While the friction can be tamed some by the low friction devices that Alex suggests, the problem with a single line system in my mind is that the clew tension is controlled by the luff tension and so one is bound to be too tight or too loose. Plus there are times when you need a reef but you want to ease the outhaul slightly to power through waves. You cannot do that with a single line system without loosening the luff and allowing the tack to float upward. 

Jeff


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## knuterikt (Aug 7, 2006)

Look at the drawing from Bartonmarine..

The setup shown is with the reefing line external to the boom.

Notice the lead of the "tack" end of the setup with the block on the mast well forward of the goose neck and then through the reef cringle and to the same point on the other side of the mast before going aft.
This is to avoid increasing friction when the luff gets pulled down first (as it will normally do since there is less rope to pull down at the tack).









I have sailed on a Hanse 470, on this boat the friction suddenly increased when the luff was pulled down to the boom - by examining the system at this point we discovered that the reef block sewn onto the luff of the sail interfered with the reefing line where it exited the boom making it extra hard to pull the leach down. The quick fix was to send a crew to the mast and push on the block, I newer bothered to find a permanent fix...


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

On my boat you can get the best (or worst?) of both worlds by using single line reefing and moving the cunningham hook to the reef tack cringle.

This lets me reef from the cockpit with a single line. Once the boat is reefed I can go forward and move the cunningham hook up to the new tack. Now my reef line is controlling the clew and the cunningham line is controlling the tack.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

Alex W said:


> On my boat you can get the best (or worst?) of both worlds by using single line reefing and moving the cunningham hook to the reef tack cringle.
> 
> This lets me reef from the cockpit with a single line. Once the boat is reefed I can go forward and move the cunningham hook up to the new tack. Now my reef line is controlling the clew and the cunningham line is controlling the tack.


Alex,

What I don't understand, if you are already essentially using a two line reefing system, why bother with the higher friction and wear and tear on the sails from a single line system?

Jeff


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

It is one less clutch space than real two line reefing where I have a dedicated tack reef line. However it lets me get the reef in from the cockpit without having to go forward. Once the boat is better balanced I can go forward and move the Cunningham.


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## GeorgeB (Dec 30, 2004)

I'm at a loss here. There are times when I want more draft even after I've reefed? I've always sought to flatten the sail as much as possible and have not encountered a time when I needed to "power up" to go over a wave. Usually it is the opposite – I need to power back to keep from launching off a crest. Wouldn’t using a strop strap do the same function? It will keep the clew on the boom, allowing for less tension on the reefing line?


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## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

I have single line reefing. It was originally rigged with line going through the cringles (per Catalina specifications), but it had too much friction. I attached blocks to both cringles - tack and clew - and it relived the friction greatly. However, because the clew requires so much more tension, I found that I was always pulling the tack BELOW the boom.

For me, the optimum balance was struck by removing the tack block and running the line through that cringle. That prevents the tack from being pulled below the boom, so I could tension the line sufficiently to get the clew cringle to the boom. I left the clew block in place to reduce the friction at that high tension area.

I also had a serious problem with fouling the cheek block on the mast. When the reef was released, the lack of tension would cause the line to fall off the block, requiring me to go to the mast whenever setting the reef (which defeats the purpose of single line reefing). I fixed it with a guide plate:


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

FWIW our Pearson 31-2 has the OEM single line reefing system and it works quite well. I have marked the reef points on the halyard so the luff is loose for setting the reef, after the reef is in, I re-tension the luff as desired. The single line system produces a nicely flat reef, however, there is a lot of reefing line to tail which means while the process is convenient and avoids leaving the cockpit, it takes a lot of tailing to complete a reef. I think the old gooseneck hook and reefing line system was quicker. 

The key to this system working smoothly (if a bit slowly) is that there is a two block connection (the blocks being end-to-end) in the boom, which connect the forward line part of the reefing line to the aft part - as the tack hits the gooseneck and tightens up, the block system seamlessly directs the line load to the clew which then tightens equally.


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

This my opinion, based on 'aerodynamics' and my own experiences, that Ive stated before; and, Ill state it again. 

Single line reefing when used does not permit one to set the needed amount of draft to attain POWER (1st gear) when one is 'punching' through steep waves. Aerodynamically speaking flat (less drafted) sails are for speed sailing, powered up (full drafted) sails are for 'punching through'. Its usually better to reef deeper and then INCREASE the amount of draft when needing to 'punch though' - impossible to do with a single line reef system. 

Reduction of sail area primarily reduces the amount of heel but unless the amount of draft is then increased (while in steep waves) one will be left with a very 'unpowerful' flat shape which will have a very narrow range of angle of attack and which will impede forward progress especially when beating or close reaching where ... FLAT shape is for speed; FULL shape is for power.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

GeorgeB said:


> I'm at a loss here. There are times when I want more draft even after I've reefed? I've always sought to flatten the sail as much as possible and have not encountered a time when I needed to "power up" to go over a wave. Usually it is the opposite - I need to power back to keep from launching off a crest. Wouldn't using a strop strap do the same function? It will keep the clew on the boom, allowing for less tension on the reefing line?


There are certainly differences between different boats in terms of when to reef, and how flat the reefed sail needs to be. But as a broad generality there comes a point at which a flat-reefed sail does not produce enough drive, and a full sail produces too much heeling and/or insufficient balance and control. This is especially true when beating in big waves or a steep chop, or power reaching in gusty conditions.

The typical solution is to start by depowering the sails as much as possible. When that no longer cuts it, to switch to a reefed but powered up mainsail. As conditions continue to build the reefed sail is then depowered (flattened) until it builds to a time when its necessary to make a headsail change or go to a second reef.

My concern with adding a strop for the clew is that it requires a crew member to install it at the end of the boom in conditions that required a reef in the first place. But more simply, a strop is unnecessary with a properly rigged two line reefing system.

Jeff


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

I agree wholeheartedly on the single line reefing scenarios rich is talking about..

none have ever worked for me in attaining real good sail shape...

another unpopular setup for some reason are reefing hooks...I dont know why they arent liked more...but I like them.

I really dislike the mess too much reefing lines make...especially long ones that are lead back to the cockipt for example...whereas a hook for initial set and then use of downhaul and halyard and outhaul for the clew etc can all be tweaked later on.

on racing boats I LOVE the straps that attach the clew to the boom and slide effortlessly...

the less HARDWARE the better for me...

cheers


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

I think I might agree with you on the MESS from all those cockpit lines make in the cockpit for several reasons.
With from-the-cockpit-reefing one can never really *see* how the reef is taking shape. Being at the mast when reefing gives better visibility of the reefing process. Its really easier to 'bust' a sail if you dont see the 'whole' sail when reefing --- biminis and dodgers blocking your view. 
Cockpit reefing will prevent you from going forward and youll eventually lose your 'dexterity and muscle memory' for when you 'really need to go forward' and when you do go forward in 'heavy conditions' youll spend much more time going and coming.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

Im a all lines at the mast guy too...but I understand thats not all that popular either.

simplicity equals safety in my eyes, especially cruising...


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

christian.hess said:


> Im a all lines at the mast guy too...but I understand thats not all that popular either.
> 
> simplicity equals safety in my eyes, especially cruising...


Actually I have both (for the first two out of three reefs); but, so arranged that I can reef from the cockpit OR at the base of the mast. 
I also run my main's leech line so that I can adjust it from the base of the mast (as well as from dangling over the water with one foot and the other slipping on the coaming)- safer to do when its 'boisterous'. Just try to hang overboard to adjust a leech line when its starts to flog -- damn unsafe way to do it IMO. If the leech flogging is severe and youre prevented from immediate adjustment, you can lose the whole damn sail - "zip" goes the seams .... been there done that, it aint 'nice'.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

jajaja more like set it and forget it...

yeah nothing like a flapping sail over the side...sucks

anywhoo

good stuff

peace


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

RichH -- What system of cleats do you use that allow you to cleat your reefing lines from the mast or cockpit? Can you cleat at the mast and release from the cockpit or visa-versa?

I've been trying to think of such a system for my spinnaker pole topping lift and downhaul lines.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

Alex W said:


> RichH -- What system of cleats do you use that allow you to cleat your reefing lines from the mast or cockpit? Can you cleat at the mast and release from the cockpit or visa-versa?
> 
> I've been trying to think of such a system for my spinnaker pole topping lift and downhaul lines.


The way that I have seen this done is with block on the lift and a block on the downhaul so that both are double ended. With the lift line there was a double sheave block on the mast and one lift line came out of the mast on one side of the mast and went to a camcleat on the mast, and the other came out of the other side of the mast, went to the deck and ran aft. I have never seen a downhaul that was led to both the mast and the cockpit, but its not that uncommon to have the downhaul led to both sides of the boat on a raceboat. I suppose it would be easy enough to have a deck mounted turning block that would allow the downhaul to turn up the mast and be cleated on the mast instead of being run back to the cockpit.

Jeff


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

Alex W said:


> RichH -- What system of cleats do you use that allow you to cleat your reefing lines from the mast or cockpit? Can you cleat at the mast and release from the cockpit or visa-versa?


The system is commonly called an 'over-the-top leech line' system:

The leech line instead being terminated/fixed up near the head of sail .. then continues up and passes though a cheek-block attached/sewn to the headboard and then proceeds down along the luff inside of a secondary sleeve right behind the luff tape (I incorporate this sleeve into the luff tape when Im building a new sail). At the areas of the luff reef points I omit the sleeve so that the leech line is exposed. I 'angle' all the jam cleats so that any 'upwards pull' on the leach line will jam the line in the cleat and any 'downward pull' from the side where I am will release the leech line on the 'side' that im Pulling from ... and simultaneously for all cleats on ether the leech side or luff side in accordance of how I 'angle' those cleats.

You can adjust from the aft end of the boom/leech in the standard way ... or from the base of the mast and/or run the luff portion of the leech line all the way back to the cockpit ... my cockpit is crowded enough with all my 'go-fast' controls (on a 'beast' crab-crusher), so I stop the luff portion at the mast/tack of the sail.

bottom leech line at the leech --> 1st, 2nd, 3rd reef positions --> cheek block at head --> 3rd, 2nd, 1st reef positions at luff ---> tack.

The 'above' is all for mainsails. Right now Im 'experimenting' the same with jibs and genoas, as its always impossible to adjust a jib/genoa leech line when you have any 'rollup' on the jib's foil .... as when you roll to reef, the damn clew always goes 'up' and most times well beyond where a normal sized person can reach and especially so on high clew or 'yankee cut' jibs.



Alex W said:


> I've been trying to think of such a system for my spinnaker pole topping lift and downhaul lines.


I do this with my big ILYA scow (although I now prefer an asymm on a retractable bowsprit). Both the spinn pole topping lift (run down inside the mast via a turning block) and downhaul (run along the face of the mast) are pinned and blocked at the base of the mast and run back to the cockpit to an endless bridle control line with block at the imaginary 'middle' of the bridle, the bridle is arranged so that I dont have to move or get up and can adjust the pole height or its restraining downhaul from 'either side' of the cockpit. 
FWIW My 'twings' are also lead back to the cockpit and are located 'behind me' at the helm. but, then this boat set-up is a 'rope nightmare' with over 35 go-fast control lines (including all the side to side duplication in the cockpit). 
There are no leach line controls on this boat as you dont reef one, you just radically bend the mast to flatten down to something similar to flat sheet of plywood, and then 'try' to hold onto your hat.


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## GeorgeB (Dec 30, 2004)

I read where some guys may only reef once or twice a season whereas out here I'm reefing once, maybe twice per weekend, all summer long. Needless to say, I am most interested in this topic.

Gerry Douglas did a pretty good job designing the single line system in my C34. I get the usual "problem" of friction at the tack cringle which results in a lot of tension there in order to have "proper" leach tension (and for the clew to rest on the boom). I have tried several things and even had a Biron Toss consultation. The upshot is without doing a major modification (like replacing the boom), I don't have a lot of options. Here are a couple of photos of what I'm currently running. I'm not wild about the floating block as it has a bad tendency to flip over, resulting in a twist in the reefing line. Plus, I have a potential chafe point. The Goiot automatic reefing system has a "block" insert right into the cringle but is unavailable here in the states. Has anyone used this before?

Goiot automatic reefing system: McIntyre Marine Products - Goiot Yacht Equipment


















So, I'm still trying to get my head around easing the [reefed] clew to adjust draft. Won't easing cause the clew to rise in response to the leech tension? For example, to move the clew forward an inch on the boom, then it would rise up four inches above the boom? That is why we use a strop to hold the leech tension. Strops are pretty common on race boats out here.

Not being able to "power up" the main to punch over waves had me worried until I looked at this old photo. We have adjustable fairleads on our masthead boat so the genoa is supplying the power and the main is giving us the pointing. Kind of hard to see in the photo, but the strop is installed. (Note that the boom is over the cockpit and it is relatively simple to apply the strop.)


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

Jeff_H said:


> The way that I have seen this done is with block on the lift and a block on the downhaul so that both are double ended.


Thanks. I'm not sure why I hadn't thought of a double ended setup, but that makes sense. I have used a double ended downhaul (routed to both sides of the cabin) on a J/29.

Now I need to think of it is worth the cost/effort of rigging. It would make single handed pole setup a little bit easier to be able to setup the pole all from the mast.


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

Alex W said:


> Thanks. I'm not sure why I hadn't thought of a double ended setup, but that makes sense. I have used a double ended downhaul (routed to both sides of the cabin) on a J/29.
> 
> Now I need to think of it is worth the cost/effort of rigging. It would make single handed pole setup a little bit easier to be able to setup the pole all from the mast.


once you engage the pole onto its sheets (and guys, if used) the 'pole work' (for end-to-end or dinghy-gybing) is quick and sooooo easy ... and really necessary when single handing a big spinn.

But honestly, the new 'free flying' sail furlers remove most all of this 'hassle'.


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

RichH said:


> once you engage the pole onto its sheets (and guys, if used) the 'pole work' (for end-to-end or dinghy-gybing) is quick and sooooo easy ... and really necessary when single handing a big spinn.
> 
> But honestly, the new 'free flying' sail furlers remove most all of this 'hassle'.


I'm not trying to optimize the jybe, i'm trying to optimize the set/douse. The topping lift and downhaul aren't really touched on the jybe since my downhaul goes to the base of the mast and doesn't need to be adjusted when adjusting the guy. My boat is small so I do end for end jybes.

With my current rigging there is just a lot of back and forth on the set:
* forward to put pole on mast and connect guy/sheet/halyard
* aft to raise pole and trim downhaul, set sheet and guy to approximate positions.
* forward to raise spin on halyard then open sock

I don't see how one would use a furler on a symmetrical spinnaker. I have an asymmetrical spinnaker for my boat too (not on a sprit), but the symmetrical is useful over a wider range of wind angles so I prefer it. In Puget Sound there is more downwind sailing than reaching.


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

I usually like to set/raise with a slightly dipped pole / taught luff so that the luff of the symm is more stable initially; then, once raised, I then 'from the cockpit' will 'diggle' with the pole to get the proper mid panel 'break' on the luff. When I was actively racing (P30 and scows) I had the pole topping life pre-marked to how high/low for the 'normally encountered' conditions (10-15) ... less 'diggling' when I should have been watching and concentrating on competitors and getting the boat speed 'up'.. Easy to do if your initial raise and set is from 'stops' on the kite.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

a tight luff makes much easier work initially...good stuff and advice rich and others...


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## knuterikt (Aug 7, 2006)

GeorgeB said:


> I read where some guys may only reef once or twice a season whereas out here I'm reefing once, maybe twice per weekend, all summer long. Needless to say, I am most interested in this topic.
> 
> Gerry Douglas did a pretty good job designing the single line system in my C34. I get the usual "problem" of friction at the tack cringle which results in a lot of tension there in order to have "proper" leach tension (and for the clew to rest on the boom). I have tried several things and even had a Biron Toss consultation. The upshot is without doing a major modification (like replacing the boom), I don't have a lot of options. Here are a couple of photos of what I'm currently running. I'm not wild about the floating block as it has a bad tendency to flip over, resulting in a twist in the reefing line. Plus, I have a potential chafe point. The Goiot automatic reefing system has a "block" insert right into the cringle but is unavailable here in the states. Has anyone used this before?


I have no experience with the Goiot system, but there are other options..
Rutgerson Marine have these blocks, no block flipping over.








RUTGERSON MARIN*PRODUCTS
US distributor seems to be http://www.challengesailcloth.com/

Some comments/observations on this picture.








If you don't easy the halyard so much the block in the picture would stop above the boom, would give better lead out of the boom and less friction when hauling down the clew.

The reefing cringle/block in the luff has the normal location for a traditional or two line reef but it is not optimal for a single line reef.

If this block is moved a little bit further aft you will get better lead, have a look at this guide from Selden (Fig 1), http://www.seldenmast.com/files/595-992-E.pdf

If you are chasing friction, the eye on the mast can be replaced with a block.


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## GeorgeB (Dec 30, 2004)

Knuterikt, thanks for the tip! I will need to consult my sail maker on placing this over my existing cringle. I have found out that UK is very wary of modifying their tape drive sails. (it took a while to convince them to sew in the Dutchman when they were initially building my main sail). 

What you are seeing in the photo is a combination of the original Catalina rigging (boat side) and sail maker (the “dog bone” rings and webbing through the cringle). What I did was attach a block to the ring and then swap out the reef 1 to reef2 line. Normally, the 1st reef would come up the backside of the sail, through the cringle then down through the eye and block at the base of the mast. The line was much, much more fair when it ran in the original configuration. Just another example of unintended consequences. I also cannot run a “shuttle” type of reefing set up inside the boom as that space is taken up by a 8:1 outhaul tackle.


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