# Galley countertop refinishing



## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

We have deep blue, Formica countertops in the galley. The galley is at the foot of the stairs/ladder to the cabin, and it's the first thing you see when you look into the boat. I think painting/refinishing the countertops would go a long way toward freshening the look of the boat. Is there an inexpensive (less than $50) solution for painting countertops that will handle being in a marine environment? I'm not usually a stickler for "marine" stuff, but I really don't want the countertop paint to be flaking off at the beginning of next season.

Another option I've considered is to find some thin granite or tile and glue that down, but then you get into grout lines, etc., and it just doesn't seem like a good idea. Solid granite countertops would be WAY out of my budget, and might impact the balance of the boat. So, that's why I keep coming back to the paint idea.

As usual, any suggestions are appreciated!


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

Why not a new piece of formica in your color of choice?


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

Laziness and the desire for instant gratification. Otherwise yes, that's probably the better option.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

How about some teak, cherry, or mahogany. Then stain it.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

I think that might be too dark, too. I have wood trim on the counters, but wooden counters would be too much.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

How about blonde oak. Or light Corian surface.


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

jimgo said:


> Laziness and the desire for instant gratification. Otherwise yes, that's probably the better option.


If you can get the old piece off without destroying it to badly, a kitchen shop can cut you a new piece to match. if you have the patience and don't mind ruining a few pieces you can get a formica knife and cut it your self.


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

I redid mine (OK it was in Malaysia) by going to a formica/laminate shop and selecting the sheet I wanted... a whiteish marble... and then asked who is the best kitchen tradesmaqn they supplied to. I saw them and draged the guy to the boat, he measuerd up, next day bought his offsider and within a few hours I had a LOVELY new kitchen! 

Cheap as chups!


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## PaulinVictoria (Aug 23, 2009)

You can buy paint made for refinishing counter tops. [edit] Some of them are multi-part that end with an epoxy clearcoat, should be plenty tough enough.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

It is quite easy to just glue new laminate over the old as long as the existing mica is not lifting. Just rough up the old surfaces really well with rough grit sandpaper. If you make paper patterns of the old shapes, it can all be done quickly with no damage. Use a good quality contact cement, some dowels to keep underneath until you get the new pieces in position and voila, bright and shiny new tops in no time. Boat tops are usually inside high edge trim, so there are not even any edges to rout.

Corian or similar solid materials are very nice, as suggested above by Dave, but they would require a major rip-and-tear in order to replace the existing tops. IMO tile and Granite do not belong on small boats because of the weight, the hardness and possibility of becoming dangerous flying objects.


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## JulieMor (Sep 5, 2011)

I've done a few tops with plastic laminate and it's pretty easy if you have exposed edges. All you need is contact cement and a sheet of plastic laminate that suits your taste. Then follow the directions on the contact cement label. Once it's set, run a trim bit along the edge with a router.

If you have a wood edging (I'm guessing you do) see if you can remove it. If not, you'll have to trim the laminate very precisely. If you can remove it without destroying it, the job will go a lot easier.

This is from a bar I built in our basement years ago. I used the same method described above then added the wood trim afterward.









The bar top is 1/4" oak veneer plywood. I would not recommend wood veneer for any top that will get a lot of use. The veneer is too thin, the core is not hard enough, the wood can get easily dinged and if there are any voids in the plywood core, weak spots will eventually show. Marine grade plywood is not supposed to have any voids but ... And something like 1/4" plywood is harder to work with than plastic laminate. You can probably find videos on laminate gluing on YouTube.


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

I can't imagine a paint that would stand up to the inevitable knife blade or two to slice something - cutting boards don't always get used let's face it. 

Even epoxy cuts and slices. Make a pattern from butcher paper then go have one cut from corian.


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## kunkwriter (Jan 21, 2013)

Did a tile refinish on an old galley counter top. Bought the tile at home depot for 99 cents sheet (12x12) and used a dab of 3m 5200 on each tile. Grout was easy and cheap. I put the tile right on top of the old formica. Total cost was about $40 including the 5200. Has held up beautifully, and is easy to clean.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

Here's a realy bad picture of my galley, for reference. I haven't measured it, but it's roughly 6' long (might be closer to 6.5') and MAYBE 2' wide. It has cut-outs for the sink, a storage compartment behind the sink, the stove area, and the ice box. The ice box and storage compartment lids match the counter.












chucklesR said:


> I can't imagine a paint that would stand up to the inevitable knife blade or two to slice something - cutting boards don't always get used let's face it.
> 
> Even epoxy cuts and slices. Make a pattern from butcher paper then go have one cut from corian.


I'm not really looking at this as a long-term solution. I just want something to clean up the galley for a year or two until we figure out a more permanent solution. Though I probably should get an estimate for having a "real" counter made.

Yours is also the second time Corian was mentioned. Is Corian much lighter than granite? I've seen a few places where my countertops could be made from the cut-offs of other customers' granite counters.

Aeventyr60, I misunderstood your suggestion. I thought you were saying to buy an entire countertop (including the substrate) rather than just the layer of plastic. That's not a bad idea.

Julie, the bar looks really nice! I'll have to look into how hard it will be to take off the trim if I decide to go with another layer of mica.

Hmmm...sounds like a lunchtime trip to Lowes is in order...


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

Jim, since your counter top is about 6 ft by 2 ft, one sheet of Formica (or high pressure plastic laminate) will be enough material to do the job. It comes 4 ft wide by 8,10 and 12 ft long. Lowes should have a selection. Think I spent $46.00 on a sheet of off white.
If you can get the fiddles (pretty sure thats the term for the wood edge treatment) off then trimming the Formica to the counter top edge is a snap. I've laid formica down before, its no big deal. Corian will not be within the $50.00 range. Its heavy, thick and expensive.

Looks like you can get to most of the edge with a router to trim the formica. What you can't get to with the router, use a mill bastard file.


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## bljones (Oct 13, 2008)

personally, I don't mind the blue so much as i mind the circa-1986 -TGIFridays-green cushions. 

As Chuck has pointed out, painting is gonna inevitably lead to scratches. 

I think the countertop is begging to be covered in 1/8" baltic birch, with bartop epoxy poured overtop to seal and protect.
Or, use cork floor tiles, epoxy sealed.

But that's me. I like wood.


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## bljones (Oct 13, 2008)

jim, the countertop bullnose should come off fairly easily. usually it is simply nailed/stapled on. A bigger issue is gonna be getting the faucet and sink out.


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

You probably won't get the fiddles off with out destroying them, they are probably screwed and glued. The router and maybe a dremel tool will be your best friends.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

BLJones, the sink sits loose in the countertop, and the faucet doesn't seem to be on all that well either. Originally, I was thinking that I wasn't impressed, but now that you mention removal, maybe it isn't such a bad thing. 

As for the cushions, I agree, I'm not a fan. I re-did the cushions for my C25, and just the salon cushions took forever. Looking around at this boat, I'll have a MUCH bigger project. The fabric on these is actually in good shape, so, although I'm not a fan of the color, I'm also not in a rush to replace it.

I had thought about bartop epoxy. I originally was considering painting it white with oil-based Killz, then pouring the epoxy over it. But I'll have to figure out how to keep the epoxy from spilling into all the openings. My initial thought was to rub vaseline on some cardboard and staple that inside the openings to create a trim. But then I saw Chuck's comment about epoxy coatings and was second-guessing the idea.

I also saw this stuff:
Rust-Oleum 1-Qt. Countertop Tintbase - Kit-246068 at The Home Depot

But, again, I wasn't sure how it would hold up with the temperature swings and humidity that you get inside a boat.


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## jgeissinger (Feb 25, 2002)

Rustoleum makes Countertop Paint specifically for kitchen countertops. Home Depot has it, as I'm sure do other home improvement stores. Various colors and finishes, take a look at it.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

I've done a LOT of this mica work, professionally and for my own houses. The slate texture as Mark described is what I have in my house. I've had both white and dark. They are my favorite patterns. It is easy to keep clean, does not show minor scratches, and lasts forever. 

I would definitely not try to take the nosing off. It is likely brittle and very likely to be destroyed in the process. If you can rent/buy/borrow an undercut saw, you can make a "slot" for new mica around the entire perimeter. If not, you can probably make a small undercut with just a hand saw laid flat. You just need enough to cover the edge of new mica. The key to it is in getting an exact pattern of the shape to cut. Mark it on the back side (careful not to do it backward) of the mica and cut with a fine blade circular saw. 

You should probably piece it, make the seam at the back of what appears to be the stove. It'll make the job easier not having to handle a big piece of mica. Of course, make the sink/hatch cutouts after it's glued down with a laminate trimmer bit in your router. The sink, faucet and that hatch and trim will need to come out. With a few hours work and a few bucks, you can have a permanent fix.


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

I won't quote all the above posting but 
" If you can rent/buy/borrow an undercut saw, you can make a "slot" for new mica around the entire perimeter. If not, you can probably make a small undercut with just a hand saw laid flat. You just need enough to cover the edge of new mica. "

I think I see a couple of problems with this approach. How to cut the slot in the corners using a hand saw, how to slip the mica into the slot when the mice is surrounded by three sides. Mica won't do compound curves. Inadvertently making contact with the contact cement before final placement.


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## THEFRENCHA (Jan 26, 2003)

Had thé same issue Covered old Formica with new White 
A 4x8 sheet is $30.00 +$20.00 for cement glue
A good carpet knife and a router for finishing the edges
Looks good !


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## Jak (Sep 7, 2012)

Another vote for going right over the top of the old laminate. I have done it several times (not on a boat). Just remember once you get contact cement on it, dont let them touch until you are ready. Once they do, they are not coming apart, so make SURE it is positioned just as you want it. Use blue masking tape to cover the lines you cut to prevent spalling, then as has been said earlier a router to finish it at the final edges. I am going to be doing this same thing this winter when I have her on the hard.


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

we never took the fiddles off in my galley.

Make a template first.


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## Cruisingdad (Jul 21, 2006)

jimgo said:


> We have deep blue, Formica countertops in the galley. The galley is at the foot of the stairs/ladder to the cabin, and it's the first thing you see when you look into the boat. I think painting/refinishing the countertops would go a long way toward freshening the look of the boat. Is there an inexpensive (less than $50) solution for painting countertops that will handle being in a marine environment? I'm not usually a stickler for "marine" stuff, but I really don't want the countertop paint to be flaking off at the beginning of next season.
> 
> Another option I've considered is to find some thin granite or tile and glue that down, but then you get into grout lines, etc., and it just doesn't seem like a good idea. Solid granite countertops would be WAY out of my budget, and might impact the balance of the boat. So, that's why I keep coming back to the paint idea.
> 
> As usual, any suggestions are appreciated!


Hey Jim,

I actually like the tile look. You could put them in with "zero" grout lines, they are easy to install, and are cheap. They even make those marble looking ones that are not that bad but a tad heavy. You can finish them out with either a teak round over or even oak if you wanted (when finished right looks close to teak). I saw a Mason 54 that did this and I thought it looked good.

Catalina uses a powder coating on top of fiberglass to look like Corian. To the casual eye, it may seem like Corian but is not. THat would be a lighter weight option but more work.

I personally would not paint it. Unless an old class Herschoff design, I am not a fan of things painted inside boats... but that is just my opinion.

Good luck with it! Take us some before and after pics!!

Brian


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## Whitewater sailor (Apr 10, 2013)

I just relaminated mine this year. I pulled all the trim off and used a router with a cut off bit after glueing. Looks like the factory did it. I also took a belt sander to the old top to get good adhesion. Easy and was about 50 bucks


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

I don't mind the blue formica. I'd live with it and concentrate on more important systems that are not purely aesthetic.
But it is your boat and you can do what you like...


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## dvuyxx (Jun 23, 2009)

I think white formica is the way to go ... classic ... and cannot really get that dated like a marble pattern or a particular color. Looks sharp agains the wood trim too.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

Captainmeme said:


> I won't quote all the above posting but
> " If you can rent/buy/borrow an undercut saw, you can make a "slot" for new mica around the entire perimeter. If not, you can probably make a small undercut with just a hand saw laid flat. You just need enough to cover the edge of new mica. "
> 
> I think I see a couple of problems with this approach. How to cut the slot in the corners using a hand saw, how to slip the mica into the slot when the mice is surrounded by three sides. Mica won't do compound curves. Inadvertently making contact with the contact cement before final placement.


Doing it that way would certainly be tight but I think as long as it's just a little way under the wood, it could be shoe-horned in. You'd have to be really careful to not crack the inside corner. I would do a dry fit that went in easily before the final glue-up. If it became apparent it wouldn't go in, one side could always be left shorter and just butted with a little 1/4" 1/4 r. put on later.

The undercut could be done with a little Japanese cut-off saw whose nose could be swiped into the corner. A good sharp regular hand saw, laid flat would probably work for the majority of it. 1/16" would be all that's needed to make a nice seal around the edges later with some caulking. One thing I didn't mention is that as long as the sink is out, to seal all the edges if not already sealed.

The dowel method I described above works really well to assure it only grabs where you want. Waiting for the contact cement to dry completely and beating the heck out of it afterward with a block of wood and hammer is important. OF COURSE MAKE SURE ALL SOURCES OF IGNITION ARE OFF WHEN WORKING WITH CONTACT CEMENT. The non-flammable stuff is not as good.

The best way to construct mica tops for boats is to laminate both sides, using a cheap, plain mica on the bottom. I've done this on boats where it looks as good today as it looked 30 years ago. Keeping moisture out is absolutely essential, especially if the core is particle board.


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

Yes, a quarter round at the joint between the mica and fiddles would give it a nice appearance and hide any oops. I wonder if instead of contact cement one could use epoxy. Epoxy would give you more time to slid the mica around. I just don't know if epoxy and mica would bond together very well.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

CalebD said:


> I don't mind the blue formica. I'd live with it and concentrate on more important systems that are not purely aesthetic.
> But it is your boat and you can do what you like...


I'm doing that, too. But if I can make her look nicer and make my family feel more comfortable aboard, I'll have more time aboard to work on the other things.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

I do have an oscillating saw like this:
Multifunction Oscillating Power Tool - 1.6 Amp, 120 Volt

I'm going to look carefully at how the countertop and trim is constructed next time I'm aboard


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

Captainmeme said:


> Yes, a quarter round at the joint between the mica and fiddles would give it a nice appearance and hide any oops. I wonder if instead of contact cement one could use epoxy. Epoxy would give you more time to slid the mica around. I just don't know if epoxy and mica would bond together very well.


If you could weigh the entire surface down enough, I don't see why epoxy would not work. The problem is that the "press" pieces would have to cover the entire surface and have considerable weight on them. Maybe some scrap pcs of 3/4" ply could be wedged up with sticks to the underside of the cabin top??? Any bubbles would be there permanently. Epoxy like West System, with a little thickener, would probably be a lot stronger than contact cement, whose main attribute is speed.

That oscillating saw would do the undercutting! I have yet to buy one of them but recently saw one used on TOH to undercut door jambs for some flooring.


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