# Folding Dinghy Opinions



## bjoc2314 (Sep 9, 2001)

I grew up daysailing small boats, and after a long hiatus from sailing, I am in the market for a cruising sailboat. I don''t like the idea of trailing a dinghy behind the boat or lashing it to the bow or stern.

Does anyone have an opinion of folding dinghies in general or any specific make/model they have encountered.

Thanks in advance


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Hi,

I have the same problem. I like to row and finding a suitable tender that will fit on a 40'' sloop was tough. For near by coastal travel I tow a 16'' wherry, but its way too big to put on board and I don''t like to tow anything when I''m off shore. I had a 9'' Dyer that would fit on the foredeck, but I didn''t care much for it.

I have recently seen an ad for a british made tender that folds and has a sailing rig. Seahopper or something like that. Try a google search using folding boats as the key words.

I''m currently building a two part tender that nests. Its a Danny Green design using stitch and tape construction on 1/4" plywood. I haven''t had it in the water yet but it looks like a decent design.

Last year I saw an Australian boat that had a two part tender on it that looked commercially made. I didn''t ask about it.

Good Luck
Dave


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## manateee_gene (Dec 7, 2001)

I have a 13''6" nester dinghy which is an excellent rower,runs at 13knots with a 7.5hp
engine has a tombstone transom so you can take it through the surf. Broken in half I carry it in my davits. It takes about.3 minutes to put it together in the water. Total weight is 85# I have had at least 15
dinks over the years and would not trade mine for Danny Green''s or anybody elses.
I have a friend in Marathon Fl. who has a danny Green after he saw mine and tried it he wanted to buy it or trade me out of it.
The plans are on my boat. It took me 4 weeks to build it in stich and glue.The plans can be purchased for $50.00 contact me in October when I''m back in town and I''ll give you the address.


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## sailor12345 (Jul 22, 2002)

Gents. I have a 33 ft sailboat and used to carry a folding dinghy. It was a so-called "Banana Boat" These things are nice when folded and latched to the rail. They are not very stable and roll over easily. I lost a camera and other goods because it flipped over. So I got back to infaltable. Now a days you find very light and small inflatables (mine is only 1.80 meter long) and can carry 3.5 HP outboard. This little thing is more stable then the folding dinghy, and by far lighter. I pull it up across the back of my yacht and tie it to the transom. It is no handicap during sailing. When anchored I just drop it down.


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## manateee_gene (Dec 7, 2001)

We have a nester dinghy which when put together is 14'' long,very stable and with 7.5hp runs at 14knots. We carry it in davits and at sea it is broken down into two pieces
the longest being 7''4". Total weight 84# I built it myself. I''ve had my fill of rubber duckies and "banana boats"... When cruising the ICW we either tow it or lift it hole in the davits. Oh!! our boat is 32''.


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## rculp (Aug 28, 2000)

I''ve been thru the inflatible lash-down and pump-up routine and finally found a neat folding boat made by Porta-bote International. This one is 12ft and folds down to 4 in thick. I carry it on top of my Cherokee back and forth to Mexico where I keep my 35 ft sloop. I believe they come in 8, 10 & 12 ft sizes. The camper crowd really like them. They are stable, accept up to 8hp outboards and are nearly unsinkable. They row well and track like blazes. Their website is www.porta-bote.com. Check''em out


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## hillerpd (Jan 29, 2001)

We have used a 10'' Port-a-boat on our Morgan 34 for close to 7 yrs. now. Stows on deck easily, rows ok, motors well with a 3.5. Just completed a year cruising and the boat worked geat. Just MHO.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Gene 
Would you e-mail to me attached photos of your nesting dink. We''re interested in getting plans.

Howard Baker


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Manatee Gene - very interested in your nesting dinghy. Got a picture?

Thanks!
Trey


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## fsmith (Apr 15, 2003)

Hillerpd,

How difficult is it for one person to unfold a port-a-boat on deck? Can it be done quickly? 
Thanks,
F. Smith


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## eds928gt (Sep 28, 2001)

Given enough room, I can put our 10.5'' Porta-Bote together in about 5 minutes.

I usually put it together on the dock, then lower it into the water, row it to the stern, and raise it on the davits. It takes about 30 minutes from start to finish, and that''s with me doing it alone.

~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I have a C-32 Caribe, 10 feet that has a 3 section hard bottom and both fold up into 2 neat storage bags that store down below when sailing blue water. Don''t have to worry about losing it overboard and is easy manageable by myself. It is powered by an 18hp and provides plenty of get up and go. A great little dinghy.
Hugh


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

We''ve got a 12'' Porta-Bote and like it a lot more than we did our inflatable.
http://home.comcast.net/~rangerbest/15-640x480.JPG

I can set it up myself, but it''s a lot easier if my wife helps me. We''ve never timed it, but it''s only a few minutes.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I can understand why people buy folding boats - other options are pretty limited.

Inflatables just can''t be paddled and if you leave them deflated for emergency they are likely to remain so. Then if you put an engine on them apart from the expense suddenly you have more gear to worry about.

If the folding boats paddle well and don''t take up too much space then clearly they become a viable option. 

With my present boat which is only 8 metres I use a cheap inflatable diveyak which is easy to paddle and easy to stow while it is inflated. Trouble is it will only carry two people at a pinch and most people don''t like getting wet even though the water is warm.

So it has its limitations too. If I get serious I will build another dinghy that can be paddled easily and then tow it on a three point harness threaded through pvc conduit to keep it off the boat. I certainly won''t be buying an outboard or going overboard about things like that. Hey remember the KISS formula - yeh it applies to boats too - probably more so.

Johnno


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## sail1948 (May 31, 2010)

> I have a 13''6" nester dinghy which is an excellent rower,runs at 13knots with a 7.5hp


Thats sonds interesting for me.
I am interested to build a nested dinghy of 12 to 14 feet.
All that I know are 11 foot plans.
I spend hours in Google, but have not found them.
Can you tell me, where to get such plans.
Interesting would also the sailing capacity.
Thanks, Willy


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## tgzzzz (Sep 7, 2005)

I've been in a Porta-Bote several times. If dinks get uglier, I haven't seen 'em. And they're mickey mouse, and loosey-goosey too. Build a small, nesting dink if space is an issue, or a traditional dink if it's not. You'll take pride in it. That's worth a lot.


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## Yofy (Aug 15, 2007)

Our 30 foot sailboat has an aft cabin, so deckspace forward of the mast is really limited. We love the aft cabin, but the pay off is nowhere to store a hard dinghy. And that is a loss because we love to row and to dinghy sail.

After many attempts with various hard dinghies, we finally broke down and bought a small inflatable. We found one that does row fairly well... and it all stores in a bag on deck for passage making. When we are coastal sailing we will probably have to tow her.

For those of you looking for nesting dinghy plans here they are: 
Nesting dinghy plans by naval architect and sailor Danny Greene who lives in Bermuda. Found on Duckworks magazine website:

Chameleon

Manny


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## skipgundlach (Oct 4, 2002)

tgzzzz said:


> I've been in a Porta-Bote several times. If dinks get uglier, I haven't seen 'em. And they're mickey mouse, and loosey-goosey too. Build a small, nesting dink if space is an issue, or a traditional dink if it's not. You'll take pride in it. That's worth a lot.


Beauty is in the eye of the beholder - and there's form vs function...

We've used our 10' PortaBote exclusively in the last several months in the Bahamas, with our lovely Walker Bay Genesis inflatable remaining in the davits, along with its 15HP outboard on the rack at the stern.

When I first got the Bote, I had someone time me. From open-the-van-door to on-the-water rowing took exactly 5 minutes, and that was including installing the custom rowlocks for my sculling oars that I'd added. (I used to be a competitive rower; sculls are 10' carbon fiber oars used in racing.) While it's not a mod most folks would likely do, particularly since if they didn't already own them, a set of sculls is $400 or more, if you'd like to see my mod and other pix in my initial ownership, click on this link:
Pictures: Flying Pig Early Refit + Projects/Finishing_Touches-Readying_To_Splash/Porta-Bote_Maiden_Voyage_and_Sculling_Modifications 
Disassembly took the same amount of time from in the water to van-door-closed.

With the sculls, I can nearly plane the Bote. The standard oars are much better than the usual dinghy oars, and also move the Bote very well. However, if you're going to use it in a marine environment, I'd suggest you aggressively rinse the clamp/oar pins with fresh water, or even, unscrew the wingnut, remove, rinse, dry and stow it, because the typical use for PortaBotes is in fresh water. Mine have totally rusted away, from not being used in that fashion (sculling oars are my norm, so these have lived in the duffel all their lives).

If you care to browse around in the main gallery (link in our sig, or back up from the one that opens with the above link), particularly in the later pix of our 2009 refit, you can see how it stows along the rail. The interior bits live in a duffel on the stern rail.

It does 15 knots 2-up on 6HP, and alone (200#), unless it's totally flat water, I throttle back so as to avoid going airborne. If you read some of my Jumentos logs, you can tell how it handles open seas - which is to say very well.

I easily (more so than the Walker Bay, which, at that, has smaller tubes than most inflatables, making it easier to get into than the usual inflatable) get in from snorkeling, at the bow. While it won't plane at that, we've had a payload of 750# and it's faster with us 4 and gear aboard than our buddy boat's same inflatable with their 6HP, with just them in it, so we used it together recently on a circumnavigation of Little Farmers Cay...

We keep our Bote folded on the bow rail area. We assemble it by hoisting with the pole lift line, next to the mast. Transom in first, to provide stability, then the seats. Takes a little longer, as I can't stand on the bottom to force the sides out, but assembly in other than a high wind is simple; we then just lower it over the side. Hoisting it back up again (all of 48#) allows us to reverse the process to stow.

The only downside I can pinpoint is that the PVC tubes which act as the rails will mark a white hull. I've seen other Botes use slit pool noodles to prevent that, but we're in the wilds of the remote Bahamas at the moment so have no access to them. We may well bring some back with us when we return to the states by plane in a few weeks for a month...

So, here's from a very satisfied user.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
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you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

Do you want to swim / snorkel from the dink?

If the answer is yes then make sure you can get back into whatever dink you buy. I can not get back into a Porta-bote.

Hence I have a Caribe RIB.


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## skipgundlach (Oct 4, 2002)

TQA said:


> Do you want to swim / snorkel from the dink?
> 
> If the answer is yes then make sure you can get back into whatever dink you buy. I can not get back into a Porta-bote.
> 
> Hence I have a Caribe RIB.


Hi,

From your comment, I presume you either used to own (maybe still do?) or had some long-term access to a PortaBote.

My experience in getting back into an inflatable is that I'd have to use the handles to assist my flipper-assisted lift onto the tubes, and then the seat or some other handhold to finish.

Before I tried it, I couldn't imagine how it was done. An elderly, VERY fat woman and similarly built and aged husband have it as their only dink on their CSY44, and are SCUBA users. She told me how to do it.

In the Bote, you go to where you can reach the front seat. One hand under the seat lip, the other on the front gunwhale, and, up you go. The flexible plastic folds a bit, making no barrier to entry as you come in...

The PB site has a small video, I believe, or, if not, pix, of a dive team using the bow to get in. Very simple once you've tried it.

That said, we also have an inflatable, and the chief advantage I see for us is the ability to use it like a tugboat, as there's this lovely cushioned thing on the bow allowing pushing not only with stability but without any scrape-type issues on the pushed vessel. You can also hip-tow with them, same deal, and use them as mega-fenders in the event of close maneuvering with other boats.

However, that doesn't address the easy-collapsibility issue raised in the beginning :**))

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
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## sck5 (Aug 20, 2007)

I have an Achilles rollup. It has interlocking aluminum slats for a floor that is hard when it is inflated and rolls up when it is not. It works great as a dink and can fit either in the v berth for long passages or in the davits or tied on deck. Check them out. It gets on plane with one person and an 8 hp 2 stroke mercury outboard.


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## nailbunnySPU (Apr 8, 2009)

Casting a vote of confidence for my 8' porta bote. I think it can be summed up as, "the hull's so cool, it doesn't matter the rest is flimsy"

Used an RSS feed on ebay and craigslist to find one at a price that ripped off the seller. It's light enough that I (not entirely weak young man) can jump from the pier to the boat holding it. It goes like a bat out of hell, rowing or with my pitiful little tohatsu 3.5. The floor feels like a super-thick waterbed. The hull is impervious to scratches. The manu site says it's practically sun-proof, i'm interested to know if that's true.

The problems are, the 8' model has two seats instead of 3, it being so light and small, where i sit is basically a choice of whether i want the bow or stern up in the air. The oarlocks are crap, they slide around on the crap aluminum oars, scraping and not gripping. The oars sometime jump out of the oarlocks and float off, if i'm not careful. The transom has a slab of acrylic as an outboard mount, that goes over the side on a plastic hinge, the rivets holding it to the hinge gleefully popped off and so the outboard mount went floating. The bowsprit is a sad affair of a plastic bag on the nose, covered by a piece of plastic held on with shock cord. Somehow the bag got away from me, probably floating in the atlantic by now. One day i was lazy in tensioning the wingnuts that held the transom on, so the outboard vibration shook a bolt out of the wingnut and out of the hull, giving me convenient ventilation below the waterline. 

So lessons learned, I epoxied the outboard hinge back on. Thinking about epoxying inner tube on the oarlocks where they meet the oars.


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## mhjackson123 (Jun 20, 2010)

I have been happy with my 12 ft Portabote - it is now well over 10 years old and going strong. I would like to rig a towing bridle for it.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Pretty easy to do if you add padeyes to the proper locations.  I have a 12' PB as well...love it...originally given to my as a freshwater fishing boat by my wife and now used as one of two dinghies for my 28' trimaran.


mhjackson123 said:


> I have been happy with my 12 ft Portabote - it is now well over 10 years old and going strong. I would like to rig a towing bridle for it.


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

skipgundlach said:


> Hi,
> 
> From your comment, I presume you either used to own (maybe still do?) or had some long-term access to a PortaBote.
> 
> ...


I guess you must be lighter than I am or have had a bigger PB. If I tried from the side it would flip and from the rear the bow lifted to the point that water was coming over the stern.

During one attempt where somebody held the other side, the side of the boat deformed to the point where it was nearly touching the floor and again water entered the boat.


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## mhjackson123 (Jun 20, 2010)

sailingdog said:


> Pretty easy to do if you add padeyes to the proper locations.  I have a 12' PB as well...love it...originally given to my as a freshwater fishing boat by my wife and now used as one of two dinghies for my 28' trimaran.


Can you suggest the proper locations? I presume a few feet back on each side. How close to the water line?


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## skipgundlach (Oct 4, 2002)

TQA said:


> I guess you must be lighter than I am or have had a bigger PB. If I tried from the side it would flip and from the rear the bow lifted to the point that water was coming over the stern.
> 
> During one attempt where somebody held the other side, the side of the boat deformed to the point where it was nearly touching the floor and again water entered the boat.


I believe you'll have a very difficult time flipping a PortaBote. That said, when exiting to dive, I hang my feet over the side from the middle seat, and push off from the seat rather than sliding over. I think I could get some water in the Bote (have not tried to do that!) if I were to simply sit on the gunwale to exit.

Ours is a 10' Bote. I weigh in at 200#... The fat lady I referenced, and her equally fat hubby, both older than I (and, presumed, both from age and weight, in considerably lesser condition than I) used the bow entry, so I was confident that it would work for me.

I agree that the transom isn't the place to do it, as the dip at the center would let in water - even with just my 6HP and a full 6G fuel can, if I'm on the seat and leaning back to change the engine angle, I have to be careful.

On the other hand, my method of bailing is to stand in the bow, feet slightly apart, and scoop the water out by ejection, not raising my cut-off water jug. The water just flies past my towline, and emptying even a very full Bote is pretty quick. OTOH, one of my purchases when I come ashore in a couple of weeks is to get a grey lift sucker; the water is more effectively emptied from the stern (my bailing always leaves a bit, as not all the water makes it to the bow due to the huge flotation equivalence).

So, back to your difficulties: Position yourself so your aft arm can reach the bow seat. Grab the gunwale with the other. Give a good hard flip (flipper assist is essential for propulsion) and pull yourself over the now-flattened side.

Flotation in the bow, due to the leverage of the body of the Bote, is amazing. The side turns in, anyway, at that point, so getting it to slide under you is very easy.

Which brings me to the towing bridle on another response. I've never used the nose piece. It's mere ornamentation in my view, other than the extremely rare instance of trying to pearl on a very steep wave descent, in which case it would make little difference, anyway.

So, my tow, which just had a 100+ mile trip, in 6' seas, with engine mounted (by way of credibility), is this:

Run your line through the grommets and tie a bowline in a barely-loose loop. Run your line around and OVER the grommet-feed line (that is, the part which goes between the grommets) - take the top-bowlined loop and feed it down in front and back up, then forward. You now have a short Vee of line over that section between the grommets. The flexibility in the nose section will take up shock, if there is any, in addition to the line/loop you've just come around.

And, to yet another response, you only need the rubber washers on the transom at the bottom. However, I use not only a lock washer but a screwdriver lever to make the wing nuts tighter than just by finger. I started that after I lost both two starboard bolts due to vibration. I couldn't figure out why the outboard was so stiff, and why I was getting water into the Bote. But that was at night; daylight quickly identified the problem :**))

So, back to a tow bridle, if you don't like my idea, while you could put eye bolts nearly anywhere above the waterline with no effect of leakage, they will stick out when you try to fold the Bote back up. Those, like the transom bolts, will be part of the disassembly process (I have to dismount my scull oarlocks, too - not a big deal, but more than just taking off the tranny and seats). If you wanted to get fancy about it, you could use folding pad eyes, and very short bolts/lock nuts, which probably wouldn't protrude enough to require removal. But (and maybe including) unless you have massive weight in your Bote while you tow, that's probably overkill. I'm into cheap and simple; I have only the cost of the line in my setup...

One other tip unrelated to any questions raised heretofore: use 303 Protectant liberally on all black parts on the Bote. It will make them last a great deal longer. In particular, if left open and out in the sun, your flotation will start shedding (ours has; we were deficient in not doing that because the only failures I'd heard about before we got ours had to do with stiff plastic). Sandy tells me that 303 or Armorall will take care of the foam. As to the seats and transom, they've changed the formulation in the last few years so it's much more UV resistant than the early Botes (the very earliest had wooden seats!), but it's still a good idea.

HTH on all fronts. As I use it daily, for everything, I may be able to shed light on any other questions. However, I commend you to several mailing lists on portabotes, free to join; probably every problem you've ever thought of or encountered will have already been covered there, and Sandy Kay, the owner, [email protected], responds personally to some of the posts and will also correspond directly with you.

L8R

Skip


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## lancelot9898 (Dec 30, 2008)

sck5 said:


> I have an Achilles rollup. It has interlocking aluminum slats for a floor that is hard when it is inflated and rolls up when it is not. It works great as a dink and can fit either in the v berth for long passages or in the davits or tied on deck. Check them out. It gets on plane with one person and an 8 hp 2 stroke mercury outboard.


That's also what I'm considering. It's between the Achilles Al rollup and the Bote. My 25 year old Achilles just keeps on ticking, but it has the wood floor which is very difficult to assemble on deck. Not sure if the roll up Al floor Achilles is easier to assemble on deck vs the Bote. I also noticed that the warranty has been reduced to 5 years on the Achilles whereas before it was 10. I think the negative on the Bote is there is no central location from which the Bote is being sold such that getting warrenty service might well be difficult. Also I don't like having to make modifications to get the Bote to function properly. Seems like by now the manufacturer should have adapted things such as a beefier oar locks, non plastic seats and proper towing rings. Still not sure if the Bote will tow as well as an inflatable.


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## skipgundlach (Oct 4, 2002)

PS on durability...

If you also read my log postings, you'll have seen that we recently anchored/tied off directly to very sharp rocks when we were going snorkeling.

The PB laughs at rocks. The rock structure in the Bahamas is extremely sharp, with eroded areas leaving projections with needle-point ends on them.

When we were off Oyster Cay in Highborne Cay, I nosed the Bote into a Vee section of rocks, threw the mooring line over a projection as a loop (which could not move due to the very sharp edges holding the three-strand from slipping), and let it back to where we could get out.

The Bote rocked and banged on the side of that area. A single bump in an inflatable would have holed it - ours has mere surface scratches.

We routinely pull it up on rocky shores, as well, to the same effect. It's so light, helped by its flat bottom and PVC tube keel, that even with the engine on (tilted, of course), we can get it above the surf line easily.

Our last snorkeling had us in a flat-faced (but still extremely sharp edges) area with tidal flow and wind. Same anchoring technique, same results. An inflatable would have been on the bottom by the time we returned; the tide had turned so it was facing the other way before we got back in, so it would have torn up both sides of our inflatable, e.g.

That said, there are still applications where we would use our inflatable, as covered in other posts. But not too many :**))

L8R

Skip


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Skip—

None of the Porta-bote's hull, including the tubes is mere PVC IIRC.


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## mhjackson123 (Jun 20, 2010)

skipgundlach said:


> Which brings me to the towing bridle on another response. I've never used the nose piece. It's mere ornamentation in my view, other than the extremely rare instance of trying to pearl on a very steep wave descent, in which case it would make little difference, anyway.
> 
> So, my tow, which just had a 100+ mile trip, in 6' seas, with engine mounted (by way of credibility), is this:
> 
> ...


Thanks Skip, I will give your idea a try before I go the padeye route. I am not quite sure I visualize the rig - any cahnce of a photo?
Also, links to any portabote lists or forums would be appreciated.
Mike


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## skipgundlach (Oct 4, 2002)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mhjackson123 
Thanks Skip, I will give your idea a try before I go the padeye route. I am not quite sure I visualize the rig - any cahnce of a photo?
Also, links to any portabote lists or forums would be appreciated.
Mike

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I don't know how to put a pic up here of the bridle, but drop me a mail off forum at [email protected] and I'll send you one or more.

However, I'll see if I can restate in a different way.

Take one end of your tow line and feed it from the inside of one of the forward grommets. Feed it over the Bote and back through the opposite grommet, exiting on the inside.

Take the bitter end and meet the towline about 2x high as the grommets are wide. Put a bowline in it there.

Take the towing (sailboat end) end of the line (the one at the opposite end of the loop you just made with the line-and-bitter-end-bowline, which should be hanging down if left loose). Bring that sailboat end toward the stern and then back over the line between the grommets (and leave it in that position), attaching the long end to the towing boat. You could also just feed it directly to the bow, but you'd lose the overlap effect that way, lessening the shock absorption capability somewhat.

The effect will be twofold.

First, the lines going around the top of the bow, through the grommets, if led directly to the towing boat (without the looping) would still provide shock absorption, by virtue of the flexibility of the Bote.

Second, however, by doing the under-and-back-over route, you'll force the line between the grommets to move forward a bit with the pressure of the Vee'd line. That will provide additional shock control.

In reality, the Bote's so light that you'll rarely have any shock. In our inflatable, we went to using a spring-line arrangement (with the rubber shock absorber wound up in the line) to avoid fear of breaking the line due to shock.

HTH, and mail me if you still need pix.

FWIW, we do about 15 knots on an old 6HP with 6Gal tank full and ~350# personnel and gear...

L8R

Skip


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## skipgundlach (Oct 4, 2002)

For a view of the modifications I did to my PortaBote, including pix of the bridle, go to Pictures: Flying Pig Early Refit + Projects/Finishing_Touches-Readying_To_Splash/Porta-Bote_Maiden_Voyage_and_Sculling_Modifications.

For a view of the towing bridle installation, click on the first thumbnail, which will open a sub-gallery.

Clicking any picture will allow you to get a bigger view if you like...

L8R

Skip

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SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
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"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand. You seek problems because you need their gifts."

(Richard Bach, in Illusions - The Reluctant Messiah)


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## randejo (Feb 13, 2007)

a buddy of mine has a 7ft folding dinghy made out of wood and rubber looks to fold up similar to porteboat i asked him where he got it all he could say was ebay wondering if any one seen any thing like that i must say it was a pretty looking dink seemed to row well with 2 onboard wasnt able to get a pic at the time i do know that it fits in the quarter berth but mostly stays in his v-berth his boat is a 1980 sabre 30


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## WanderingStar (Nov 12, 2008)

Google "Folding Dinghy" or "Folding Dinghy Plans". There are several options. I think you might be referring to a Flapdoodle or Barquito.


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## randejo (Feb 13, 2007)

i dont care what any one says about you guys. you're good!! i been trying to find a neat looking dink like my buddies and come up with nothing but the porta-bote then one day later sailnet comes through again all i can say is "OUTSTANDING" (lets just hope that i dont get made fun of since this Marine has become a sailor)


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

Here is Skip's pic of the bridle;


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## WanderingStar (Nov 12, 2008)

randejo said:


> i dont care what any one says about you guys. you're good!! i been trying to find a neat looking dink like my buddies and come up with nothing but the porta-bote then one day later sailnet comes through again all i can say is "OUTSTANDING" (lets just hope that i dont get made fun of since this Marine has become a sailor)


Who's crazy enough to make fun of Marines? (ok, some good natured jibing among services). Now you're tough and salty!


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