# SSB Antenna wire attachment to the backstay



## brokesailor (Jan 12, 2008)

Right now the wire is held onto the backstay by a hose clamp. What should I use, any links would be appreciated. Also the wire is a copper wire attached to the SS backstay. Short of replacing the wire is there anything I can do to prevent corrosion?


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## sea_hunter (Jul 26, 2000)

Use a di-electric paste after silvering the copper ends and install with a proper SS antenna clamp.


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## windward54 (Apr 12, 2000)

The hose clamp works well, but make sure you cover the end with tape as well.


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## fairbank56 (Feb 28, 2010)

Just do a good job of weatherproofing the connection as I have done here using Scotch 2242 rubber tape (sticky side out) and top layer of Scotch 33+ vinyl tape. This one I did years ago and it's still clean, bright and shiney.

Eric


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

Wire clamps work better than hose clamps.


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## svHyLyte (Nov 13, 2008)

brokesailor said:


> Right now the wire is held onto the backstay by a hose clamp. What should I use, any links would be appreciated. Also the wire is a copper wire attached to the SS backstay. Short of replacing the wire is there anything I can do to prevent corrosion?


Bill Trayfors, an experienced cruiser and knowledgeable radio technician active on several sailing forums taught me that an effective connection can be made by attaching a ring-connector to the end of the cable between your antenna tuner and the back-stay with an appropriate heat shrink cover to seal the cable; passing a #12 or so bolt through the ring connector and fastening it in place with a couple of nuts tightened against the ring and then one another; bending the bolt 30 to 45 degrees roughly 1/4" to 1/2" past the ring connector/nuts; flattening the side of the bolt opposite the bend with a drummel tool; and, fastening the flattened side of the bolt against the back-stay with a couple of bull-dog wire clamps. Finish the connection with a couple of wraps of self-amalgamating tape (e.g. "Rescue Tape"). This makes for a sturdy, reliable, waterproof connection that will last for a very long time.

FWIW...


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## btrayfors (Aug 25, 2006)

Yes, that will work fine. Here are some pix to show what you've described:

Marine Antennas

(click twice on each pic for full resolution)

I still use this once in a while, but have found that an easier method which works very well is to use s/s wire clamps, sized to the backstay diameter. You just put a waterproof, heat-shrink ring terminal on the end of the GTO-15 feedline, slip the terminal over one of the legs of the clamp, and add another nut.

Most of these fittings these days are metric, so you'll need a metric nut.

This allows for very easy connection and inspection/cleaning/replacement when needed.

If you do the waterproofing well, you won't need a "drip loop", either. Just go straight up to the wire clamp.

I still use the "bent bolt" trick on "alternate backstay antennas", i.e., those made from 3/16" insulated s/s lifeline. Normally, I stick one end of the bolt into a Nicopress sleeve and clamp it onto the standing part of the wire. See last pic on above-referenced page.

Bill


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

SVAuspicious said:


> Wire clamps work better than hose clamps.





btrayfors said:


> I still use this once in a while, but have found that an easier method which works very well is to use s/s wire clamps, sized to the backstay diameter.


As I said, but Bill had more time to type today than I did. *grin*

Note that this connection is always a maintenance item. Take the tape off every year or so (I do mine as part of getting the boat ready to haul for bottom paint) and check for tightness and corrosion and then retape.


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## brokesailor (Jan 12, 2008)

Thanks! I'll try the bent bolt idea.


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## fairbank56 (Feb 28, 2010)

I really don't get the bent bolt idea. Three hose clamps, bolt-washer-nut, terminal lug, and the difficulty sealing this contraption up OR a single hose clamp over the wire. But hey, if you want to make it more difficult than it is, go for it. No disrespect to Bill who generally has good idea's and info 

Eric


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

To reiterate, hose clamps are a fundamentally bad idea. Use a wire clamp.


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## fairbank56 (Feb 28, 2010)

Been using them professionally for *many* years without problems.

Eric


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

Hi Eric --

You've been on my list of people I want to meet for a long time. I don't often disagree with you. I do here. It's tough to find a hose clamp that has a stainless steel bolt - most are mild steel so they corrode. Unless you are going to drill and safety wire vibration will loosen them. Maintenance over time generally means 'remove and replace' which isn't terribly expensive but is a pain and a waste. 

Clearly you've had a good experience with hose clamps. I have not. Maybe you have sources for better kit than I do. 

From an installer point of view, the hose clamp is attractive because you don't have to stock so many different sizes. I do have to keep a lot of different sizes of wire clamps to avoid extra (expensive) runs to hardware stores to buy (expensive) retail parts. I also like a heat-shrink/adhesive/crimped ring connector to the wire clamp. It means a few more cents to the customer but it makes me more confident in my work as I watch them sail off into the sunset (well - usually the sunrise here on the Chesapeake).


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## btrayfors (Aug 25, 2006)

Eric,

I usually agree with you, too, but in this case do not. Here's why.

I used your method for years, too, but found that the only way to inspect the connection was to take off all the tape and goo...a really messy and unpleasant undertaking, so rarely if ever done.

Maybe, if you did a really super job in the beginning, there'd be little need to inspect the connection, but if you didn't and if water gets in...even a bit...you risk crevice corrosion of the backstay itself. And, as you know, crevice corrosion in any standing rigging is a very bad thing!

With the wire clamp and ring-terminal thing, you don't need anything more. I don't tape my connections or "protect" them in any way, other than a bit of vaseline or other lubricant on the wire clamp. This way, the connection is always open to view, it's clean and tight, and can easily be inspected or replaced at any time.

Different strokes for different folks, I guess!

I, too, would sometime like to meet you after all these years. You seem to hide yourself pretty well in the bowels of the Naval Academy 

Bill


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

I usually agree with both of you, but, this is one particular instance where I do not. The clamps, both types, are not great for making a good electrical connection to the backstay. Yes, both will work, at least most of the time, but I think I may have found a better solution to this age-old problem. 

I stripped about 4-inches of insulation from the wire's center conductor, then lightly twisted the wire back to somewhere close to its original shape. Next, I lightly tinned the stripped section of wire with rosin-core solder. After it cooled, I placed a dab of silicone cement to the base of the wire, thereby providing a waterproof shield so there would be no water intrusion between the insulation and wire.

Attaching the wire to the backstay was simple. I merely wrapped the tinned section of wire around the backstay, then tightly wrapped the connection with white, rigging tape. A small, white, cable tie was placed at the top and bottom of the rigging tape to anchor it in place--just to be on the safe side. No big lump from the connection, nothing to get snagged on, and when I have to remove it, which in my case is necessary when the boat goes onto the travel lift, I just snip the cable ties and unwrap the tape--it takes just a few seconds.

I've measured the connection resistance with an ohm meter many times to ensure that it is solid--never had a bad measurement. Additionally, there's no pressure point or chafing of the backstay whatsoever. 

I think the biggest problem I see with SSB radio installations is the grounding system. Essentially, this is a longwire antenna, which requires an earth ground to operate at peak efficiency. Most installers have the tendency to attach the ground post of the radio to the negative terminal of the boat's batteries and assume this constitutes grounding--it does not. Even if the engine is an inboard that is grounded to the negative terminal of the battery, the ultimate connection to an earth ground, which in this case is the water, it not always adequate. Sometimes it works, sometimes it just doesn't. The best connection in this instance is an external ground plate, one that is often used for grounding the mast for lightning strike protection. It's a solid, ground connection that makes a huge difference in the reception and transmission of SSB radio signals.

I'll shoot some step by step photos and post them when the boat goes back in the water. 

Cheers,

Gary


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## fairbank56 (Feb 28, 2010)

SVAuspicious said:


> It's tough to find a hose clamp that has a stainless steel bolt - most are mild steel so they corrode. Unless you are going to drill and safety wire vibration will loosen them.


 There are cheap ones and good ones as with everything else. I use ones that are all stainless although it doesn't really matter with the way I weatherproof them. As you can see from the photo, no moisture gets in. That one had been going for years on a boat with multiple trips to New England ports. The tight weatherproofing also prevents any loosening of the clamp.



> the only way to inspect the connection was to take off all the tape and goo...a really messy and unpleasant undertaking, so rarely if ever done.


 As you can see in the photo, no mess. A simple quick longitudinal cut with a razor knife and you just peel it off. It's worked for me for years for this and various coaxial connections. There's never been a gooey mess when removing it.

Eric


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

So clearly the appropriate response, Eric, is for you, Bill, and me to meet up in Annapolis, DC, or Baltimore and hang out a bit.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Hose clamp, bulldog clamp...Wouldn't a real sailor just LASH IT with twine?

Some antiseize or dielectric paste, either one, should prevent corrosion but I'm not sure that a waterproof cover is a good idea. Bear in mind that any waterproof cover on stainless rigging is going to hide the rigging, prevent oxygen from reaching the stainless, and if it gets damp in there--the could cause crevice corrosion and failure.

Might, could, not saying it would, just raising the question that maybe, on rigging, something breathable like lashing might actually be as good a way to go as waterproofing? (And of course, more yachty.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

hellosailor said:


> Bear in mind that any waterproof cover on stainless rigging is going to hide the rigging, prevent oxygen from reaching the stainless, and if it gets damp in there--the could cause crevice corrosion and failure.


Thus the guidance to pull the tape and inspect annually, just like you do with rigging tape (you do, don't you?) at the spreaders.


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