# So I started Brewing...



## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

I'm trying my hand at some Hard Cider currently and collecting more equipment to do some beer next. I've got two glass 6 gal. carboys and some misc. stuff so far. 

As i'm doing this i'm wondering how you would pull this off while living aboard? Anyone else on here enjoy this hobby? Or perhaps while aboard?


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## w1651 (May 2, 2010)

LandLocked66c said:


> I'm trying my hand at some Hard Cider currently and collecting more equipment to do some beer next. I've got two glass 6 gal. carboys and some misc. stuff so far.
> 
> As i'm doing this i'm wondering how you would pull this off while living aboard? Anyone else on here enjoy this hobby? Or perhaps while aboard?


I think the hardest part would be the brewing itself. Getting the caldren boiling while on a dock would require a big pot with enough heat to get it boiling. At sea your on your own. I'll watch for a mushroom cloud when you decided to try it. Unless you stopped and brewed on the beach somewhere. You'll need to buy enough grain and supplies to get you through the trip though.
That would be cool. Stop at a beach in fiji because the beer supply needs to be restocked. Brew it on the beach using palm fronds and drift wood.

How do you make rum is what I want to know...


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## QuickMick (Oct 15, 2009)

the cleanliness issue may crop up too... my old roomie used to brew and it didnt take much contamination to ruin a batch.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Yep, probably a better idea to boil your wort on solid ground! Cider on the other hand only needs yeast and time. Or other fruit juices for that matter.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

QuickMick said:


> the cleanliness issue may crop up too... my old roomie used to brew and it didnt take much contamination to ruin a batch.


Yes, can't use saltwater to rinse your equipment. But the sterilization powders are very cheap...


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## St Anna (Mar 15, 2003)

I used to brew beer onboard. Always Keep it Simple

I just used the sterilisation stuff properly. The home brew kit would sit in the cockpit bubbling away for 5-6 days (at anchor), we would bottle it and dont touch for 3months. (I have enough stocks to last 3 -4months - 120 bottles. All this took up one of the quarter berths (plastic bottles in plastic boxes.) 

Lost about 2-3 bottles in prob a 6 month period. Never any contamination if cleaned and rinsed properly & we always had plenty of water -in the tropics.

mmm Pale India Ale or Amber Ale....


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

St Anna said:


> I used to brew beer onboard. Always Keep it Simple
> mmm Pale India Ale or Amber Ale....


Making my mouth water!

So all the sloshing around didn't really effect much, airlock never got fouled?


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

I think you should do a test run and let us know where and when the tasting will be.
John
ps Are you thinking about using kits so you don't have to carry all that grain around?


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## QuickMick (Oct 15, 2009)

if you dont wanna use plastic (and dont mind drinking a couple cases of grolsch to get started), IIRC my pal had success with these:


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

ccriders said:


> I think you should do a test run and let us know where and when the tasting will be.
> John
> ps Are you thinking about using kits so you don't have to carry all that grain around?


It'll be awhile before I get to do it while aboard. But so far my stuff is tasting pretty good! I'd say that malt extracts would be the way to go on board?


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

QuickMick said:


> if you dont wanna use plastic (and dont mind drinking a couple cases of grolsch to get started), IIRC my pal had success with these:


Yes, those work nicely!


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## jephotog (Feb 25, 2002)

I am sure it could be done but I might need a bigger boat.


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## rmeador (Jan 16, 2010)

I have brewed extensively on the hard, and I see no reason it wouldn't work on board. I would do a partial grain extract on board. Total grain extracts are too much hassle, and all malt extracts are boring. You don't have to do 5 gallon batches, by the way. Once I start brewing on board, I think I'll probably do 3 gallon batches. No reason it can't be done on the galley stove just fine. I may even ferment it in some kind of non-rigid container so I can stuff it in a weirdly-shaped storage location. Oh, BTW, if you're using those Grolsh bottles, replace the seals on them. You can buy replacement seals at a good homebrew store or online. The seals generally have a life of only one use and will not properly seal a second time -- I learned this the hard way when over half a batch of stout went bad after only 6 months. I think I'll keg the stuff I brew on board. Bottles are too difficult. If I build a custom fridge like I want to, perhaps I'll build a tap into it...


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## Stillraining (Jan 11, 2008)

St Anna said:


> The home brew kit would sit in the cockpit bubbling away for 5-6 days (at anchor), we would bottle it and dont touch for 3months. (I have enough stocks to last 3 -4months - 120 bottles. All this took up one of the quarter berths (plastic bottles in plastic boxes.) ..


120 bottles?...that's only a 15 to 20 day supply....I'll need a faster aging brew myself then 3 or 4 months....or a lot bigger batch one of the two...


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## St Anna (Mar 15, 2003)

LandLocked66c said:


> Making my mouth water!
> 
> So all the sloshing around didn't really effect much, airlock never got fouled?


We stayed at anchor during th primary fermentations. So that was quite still (?). The secondary ferment in the botles didnt seem to be phased by movement.

All good!


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## St Anna (Mar 15, 2003)

Stillraining said:


> 120 bottles?...that's only a 15 to 20 day supply....I'll need a faster aging brew myself then 3 or 4 months....or a lot bigger batch one of the two...


I've said it before and I'll say it again.

Still, you are a *legend*


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## carl762 (Jan 11, 2010)

I've been brewing ales for years, but can't imagine doing it on a boat, unless it was at least 40 or more feet with tons of onboard water, a water maker, hot water and sanitizing agents. I do all-grain batches. 

Would be cool to see the process in action on a boat though.

Then, the bottling process would be insane, versus Corney Kegs. 

Then, refrigerating the stuff. 

Finally, while this brew is fermenting, how would you keep the bucket or carboy still enough so as to not stir it up? 

Something I'll never attempt. 

More power to ya though.


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## Stillraining (Jan 11, 2008)

Well in all honesty I don't drink while sailing but on the hook..6 or 8 a day ( all day long) is child's play with out a thought or tinge of feeling the effects...I just love beer! so my first one is about 10am my last is.... well my last depending on what Im doing that day .

Now keep in mind this is USA 3.5 to 4% junk so if your home brew is 6 or 7% I would not probably be able to do that.

Im on a weight loose regime right now so I haven't drank any beer in about 3 weeks and I'm shooting for New Years eve as the beer breakfast mark...but will still hopefully keep going with the eating regime....Iv lost about 8 lbs already...30 more to go.

But Enjoying life with a beer in hand is my way of hydration I guess....always has been.


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## St Anna (Mar 15, 2003)

Hey Still. (sorry about the dig in the ribs) 

Nothing like a cold beer after a nice sail.


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## Stillraining (Jan 11, 2008)

or 6 or 8...


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## chris_gee (May 31, 2006)

I have done fruit wine, ordinary wine, and some beer. The wines were better. Maybe I knew more then. 
You don't need heat - you are not distilling. In fact 40-60 F is better to preserve the flavours and aromas.
To sterilise the mix you can use a low dose of metabisulphite or campden tablets. Too much kills the yeast though it will gradually reduce as the other function is to prevent oxidation ie browning until the co2 displaces the air. Using natural yeasts can be good but more risky. In a winery yeasts naturally accumulate in the environment. 
Juicing might be a problem or a bit labour intensive. One way i found was to extract the lavours and juice by using osmosis ie a moderately strong sugar water solution. That would technically be fruit flavoured and be careful not have too much as too high alcohol defeats the point of a refreshing drink. The less solids the better, so rack them off quite early.
The main problems are contamination so sterilise equipment, and try to minimise air space to stop vinegar bacteria and oxidation. Also have a tiny amount of bisulphite remaining. The other real problem is sediment. The stuff can look clear and still have quite a bit settle out. So try to rack a few times. This less an issue with cider where some cloudiness is ok than it is with wine. There will still be enough yeast to ferment a little added sugar for a sparkle, or probably you will not ferment it out entirely as you won't want it totally dry.
An interesting hobby to try to get the taste right, balanced acidity, flavours, sweetness and tannin. So taste and adjust if required rather than just bottle and hope.
Space means it is not easy to make large quantities on a boat. Since air is the enemy you probably need a smaller second container for topping up after racking.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Landlocked, I appreciate glass but I've used plastic because it is lighter, less likely to smash, and one-liter bottles make a handy have to have a drink without needing to open a second.<G>

I'd think the carbouys would be best kept in a hammock or sling, to reduce the motion on them. And the airlock possibly elevated more than usual, so a little sloshing didn't clog it.


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

I've never done beer but I do Wine onboard and a 6 gal carboy fits the V-Berth stand up area nicely 

I use "C-Bright" (cleaner) and "NuFoam" (commercial bar/rest. disinfectant) to make sure everything's clean and sanitary.

6 gals. avgs. 28-30 bottles of finished wine.

p.s.
Name the stuff after your boat like I did.
www.stoneycreekwinepress.com is reasonable for quality labels.


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## carl762 (Jan 11, 2010)

Nice label. going to have to try doing a mead someday. Not ready to leap up to wine making, since I already have so much brewing equipment. I try and keep 3 5-gallon corneys full at all times, under pressure, in the shop.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Awesome ideas guys! I'm sticking to my basement for now until I outgrow it... I'm amazed people are actually brewing/fermenting on there boats! I was half kidding!


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

carl762 said:


> Not ready to leap up to wine making, since I already have so much brewing equipment.


1, 6 gal. carboy, 
pour in 1 bx. wine grape concentrate & whatever other flavor you may want.
add water to 5.5/6 gals and stir well.

Start 1 pk. yeast ("Red Star" Montrachet 14-16% OR Premier Cuvee 18% alc./really dry . works well) in 1/2 cup 105F warm water w/ 1 tsp. sugar and let it start perking.
add to carboy

put a dry airlock or terry towel on it for 2-3 days (yeast needs air at first)

put an airlock (w/ water in it) on and you will have wine in 4-5 weeks.

rack, clarify and bottle it.


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## jephotog (Feb 25, 2002)

I am into brewing in a huge way. My previous photo is my keezer (keg freezer) in my living room, with 8 beers on tap (pause while I go to refill)




The reason I have not been hanging out here to talk sailing for most of the last year was spending time with the brewing crowd. Yes beer is that important. I went from 5 gallon extract to 10 gallon "all grain" electric set up this last year. "Sailing and Beer" a match made in heaven. I believe beer was even part of the rations in the British Navy as it is on my boat.

As much as I like beer, brewing takes up way to much room. My dream boat is 38 feet I would have to add 10 fee to even think about brewing on board. Under 40 feet I would think more about vodka drinks.

I have spent the last year making brewing more complicated. But if (when) I live aboard, and I had enough space here is what i would try to do brewing onboard K.I.S.S.

Better bottles or P.E.T. containers for fermenting, no glass. Broke my first carboy yesterday. It was scary and I was on dry land.

Apfelwein dry german style apple cider (cheap apple juice, sugar for alcohol and dry wine yeast)

Corny kegs for storage and serving;

Primary fermenting only (30 days) then keg.

Salt water for rinsing, oxiclean for cleaning, star-san for sanitizing.

My biggest brew/sail challenge this coming season is to figure out how to secure a keg when chartering next summer?


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

MacGyverRI said:


> 1, 6 gal. carboy,
> pour in 1 bx. wine grape concentrate & whatever other flavor you may want.
> add water to 5.5/6 gals and stir well.
> 
> ...


Yep, that's how easy it is! That's what I love about it... Great recipe, although i'm not interested in wine quite yet.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

jephotog said:


> I am into brewing in a huge way. My previous photo is my keezer (keg freezer) in my living room, with 8 beers on tap (pause while I go to refill)
> 
> The reason I have not been hanging out here to talk sailing for most of the last year was spending time with the brewing crowd. Yes beer is that important. I went from 5 gallon extract to 10 gallon "all grain" electric set up this last year. "Sailing and Beer" a match made in heaven. I believe beer was even part of the rations in the British Navy as it is on my boat.
> 
> ...


I hear you! There is alot of equipment if you really want to be technical. I'm already plotting out my next moves, possibly heating and cooling my garage... Right now i'm doing it as cheaply as possible. Picked up a keg last night for my boiling needs and have more lined up soon. It can be done with very little at first - then you have to feed the monster!


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## Stillraining (Jan 11, 2008)

MacGyverRI said:


> 1, 6 gal. carboy,
> pour in 1 bx. wine grape concentrate & whatever other flavor you may want.
> add water to 5.5/6 gals and stir well.
> 
> ...


Dang that's easy....to bad I cant stand wine.....well on the other had its probably a blessing.. .....right St Anna? :laugher


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## zboss (Mar 26, 2006)

Awesome! I have been brewing for twenty-odd years. I don't think you should buy glass carboys if you plan on brewing aboard. However, a company named "better bottle" makes a PET type container specifically for brewing that is very popular. Other popular fermenters are these:

Stackable Containers | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Also - you could use a Cornelius keg with a spunding valve. This would allow you to ferment and carbonate at the same time.

Or - you could just convert your tankage into a fermenter 

I think the biggest issue would be the motion preventing the yeast of settling out - at least you would get great attenuation. You could probably make some great pilsners up north.


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## Stillraining (Jan 11, 2008)

Great link!....Now were talkin...:laugher


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## zboss (Mar 26, 2006)

The winpaks are extremely solid, they are able (and I have seen this done) to be dropped from 5-6 feet while full and not crack or break in any way.

Whatever you do - I would always go for the solid color (not white or clear) as this blocks the sun. The sun interacting with the hop oils causes skunking. Space on a boat that can be made perfectly dark [and also fit 5 gallons of fermenting beer or wine] is so limited.

As far as sourcing of materials overseas... I have tasted 'ok' beer made with grass seed and bread yeast. Get creative with local flora. The scots used heather tips instead of hops and most fruits will make a great gruit.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Stillraining said:


> Great link!....Now were talkin...:laugher


Could you dispatch that in a day, Still??? :laugher


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

Stillraining said:


> Dang that's easy....to bad I cant stand wine.....well on the other had its probably a blessing.. .....right St Anna? :laugher


Hmm, Like funky Liquors?

Walnut Liquor, "Nocino";
1.5 lbs. "shelled" walnuts, 1/2's or broken pieces (cheaper)
1/4 lb. Turbinado raw Dark sugar
1 ltr Vodka
1 ltr Captain Morgan
an empty 1 gal wide mouth glass jar

lightly toast the walnuts in a 350 deg. F. oven,
put them in the jar and dump the vodka and Rum quickly onto it (t will sizzle the alc. at first), then cover tightly.

Shake it around every 2-3 days for 5-6 weeks.

Strain it (lots of sediment) through coffee filters in a funnel w/ cheesecloth over the filters or into a "clean" container (temp. holding, no cover needed, use plastic wrap)

Make a heavy syrup w/ the sugar, 1 part sugar -2 parts water ratio, simmered in sm. saucepan until the sugar is all dissolved then cool it.

Warning, If you put this into the liquor before filtering, it's too thick and won't pass through the filter!!! (that's from experience...)

Now you can mix that into the liquor, stir well and bottle into wine bottles or back into the Vodka and Capt. Morgan bottles. I use 375 ml frosted wine or Ice wine/Grappa type bottles.

The actual Italian recipe "Nocino" is made from raw fresh green walnuts, only in the summer and is very costly. This is a version we can make and it tastes great.


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

These are around $60 locally (any beer or wine making shop) and hold 54 ltrs (14.5 gals). Anyone ever use them? They look easy to clean vs. those plastic jugs/barrels in the links w/ the nooks and crannies on the tops.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

I'll be racking my cider to a secondary carboy tonight. Should be ready for T-Giving Day!


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## Justapersona (Oct 25, 2010)

This is a great thread. I hadn't contemplated brewing beer (or making wine, which I'd be more likely to do), though now that I'm chewing on it, I'm tempted to even put a still design together for the low power constraints... Hmm.


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## Justapersona (Oct 25, 2010)

I've made beer, wine & fruit wine, but never on a boat. After exposure to this thread, though, I can see destiny at work&#8230; This challenge seems more about logistics & equipment design.

For any non-brewing oglers, I refreshed myself on brewing steps/equipment here:
How to Brew Your Own Beer In 7 Simple Steps

Designing a boat version...

1.) Boiling the water. I'd expect this to be a big challenge (getting enough water really hot enough). If boiling on a stove, I'd borrow a trick from backpacking: wrap 1-2 walls of foil LOOSELY around the pot, to sit LOOSELY on the stove surface, to funnel as much heat as possible up along the walls of the pot w/out interfering with oxygen flow.
If you're serious, I'd consider (research) a separate burner just for brewing, and maybe use a dedicated propane tank (like for a home BBQ). (e.g. High Pressure Cast Iron Burner - Grilling, Smoking, Barbecue, BBQ, Barbeque) Mount it on something that holds it high enough off your cockpit deck and sturdy enough to hold a pot of water on (I'm envisioning a pot such as: Northern Brewer - Brew Kettles ). I could see this needing 2 hours, but succeeding to get the water really hot enough.

2.) Wort/Mash: There are 2 brewing philosophies/techniques in conflict here, so let me just point it out. A.) Some folks bring the soup of grain, hops, water, etc to a boil, then dump it into the fermenting carboy. B.) Others want to time it more carefully, so they don't expose the ingredients to a long, unpredictable heating period. The first (A) requires a boiling pot & a Carbouy. The second (B) needs an additional container, but it is why kits come with a wort bucket (e.g. Amazon.com: Home Beer Brewing Equipment Kit with Scots Brown Ale: Kitchen & Dining: Reviews, Prices & more ). Wort buckets (such as on the right in that brew kit) have spigots to drain it out neatly w/ a sterilized hose; but, this could be replicated w/ a siphoning tube, to get it out of a stainless pot. I think 1 steel container is less to store & an ideal option for sterility.

For 1.) & 2.) on a boat, after chewing on it, I'd suggest:

Have a little steel frame made that holds a strong burner with a 8-10-gal steel pot sitting above, without burning your cockpit deck. Something probably with wingnuts to break down & store; simple metal cube (?). Secure the pot with lines to the handles, if any threat of boat moving. Put some serious propane under that pot, and use the foil tenting trick to not lose heat. Boil ~7 gal water.

Once boiling, kill the heat, and add ingredients. Time your steep from there.

Get the liquid out with a syphoning tube w/ a screen on the bottom.

3.) Cooling the Wort
A lot of people skip this step, figuring it'll cool off in the carboy (generally considered a mistake). Some dip the big, hot pot into a "cold water bath," which seems impractical to me at larger sizes, but is an option.
I like a cold water filter. Run the hose carrying the hot liquid into a container with cool water in it. Coil the hose so it is in the cold water as long as possible before getting poured into the carboy to ferment.
Syphon the liquid from hot pot to carboy: boil mash in cockpit, put carboy down in cabin.
The cold filter can simply be part of the path to get down. You just need a long enough (food safe, sterile) hose.
A simple cold filter could be an all-purpose 3-gal bucket with seawater; coil the hose a few times in it. If you have a seawater sprayer, keep the cold water moving & cold.
I have built a dedicated cold water filter coiling 4 feet of food-safe tubing inside ~20 inches of 4" PVC with caps on the end and a way to connect a garden hose to keep cold water moving through it. Worked great. Cheap. If designed right, it could store inside the boiling pot with everything else.

4.) Fermeting in a carbouy.
The idea of a 6-gal glass carboy on a boat scares the hell out of me. Cleaning up after a break sounds horrid. Hate to go to plastic, only because I'm a clean freak. I might look for a plastic milk-box-type crate & a glass carboy size that fits snuggly in it (or wrap some foam to make snug), targeting a 6-gal size.

I've looked at the Round, basketed carboys (see MacGyverRI, above. They just look like they're waiting to break, to me.
ZBOSS's containers (link above) are intriguing, I admit.

=== Recipes ===

I agree (after messing with fruit wines, and mixing 1-part strawberry & 5 parts pear/apple mix&#8230 &#8230;combinations of kit syrups, dried hops (store & transport well) & local grains/ingredients seems a promising approach. I *love* shopping for grains in hard-core beer supply stores, but there's gotta be a lot of great alternatives in small ports. As well, frankly, I'd experiment with heating local seed/grains gently in small batches on a frying pan like toasting almonds. Could be a fun activity while hanging out drinking the prior batch&#8230; 

MacGyverRI - Your label is FANTASTIC. Way to finish the job in style. I'll definitely take this from your playbook.


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## zboss (Mar 26, 2006)

MacGyverRI said:


> These are around $60 locally (any beer or wine making shop) and hold 54 ltrs (14.5 gals). Anyone ever use them? They look easy to clean vs. those plastic jugs/barrels in the links w/ the nooks and crannies on the tops.


Those are REALLY heavy.

Oxiclean works wonders for any fermenting vessel. No scrubbing required.

I suppose the issue is the amount of water you would need for cleaning.

FYI - using a high pressure burner I can get 8 gallons of water to boiling in about 20-30 minutes. The trick is to use an aluminum pot with an extra thick copper clad bottom. I can usually get about 4 maybe 5 brews out of a full 20 pound propane cylinder.

I would not bother brewing all grain on a boat - going extract or partial mash (extract makes up the majority with only a small pound or so of grain needed for flavoring and complexity).

Cooling would be problematic. If using a plastic jug you could hang it over the side and let it sit in the water? You could use a pump with an immersion chiller, pump cold sea water through it.

Unless in more temperate zones, the yeast fermenting at high temps will produce a lot of phenolic notes (depending on yeast). I am betting that you could brew some very good Belgian style Ales because they tend to be fermented at higher temps, traditionally, so the flavor notes would be complementary.

Very strong IPA's could also hide some of the notes.

FYI - I highly recommend Austin Homebrew.


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## jephotog (Feb 25, 2002)

LandLocked66c said:


> I'll be racking my cider to a secondary carboy tonight. Should be ready for T-Giving Day!


I might have missed it but if not, save yourself the effort. Secondary carboys are old school. I have brewed many a gallons last year and have stopped using secondaries unless I am dry hopping or making a lager. You might gain a slight clarity from a secondary but nothing else. Just leave it in the primary for 30 days, then bottle.

If you want to up the clarity you can add gelatin (boil a cup of water add a packet of gelatin then pour into the cider) or cold crash it (place in fridge or cold garage). Leave for 3 days then bottle it. It should be plenty clear.


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## zboss (Mar 26, 2006)

Besides - I would not expect to get great beer clarity on a boat... maybe I am wrong since I have never done it. Can someone out there that HAS brewed on the boat chime in with a picture?


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

jephotog said:


> I might have missed it but if not, save yourself the effort. Secondary carboys are old school. I have brewed many a gallons last year and have stopped using secondaries unless I am dry hopping or making a lager. You might gain a slight clarity from a secondary but nothing else. Just leave it in the primary for 30 days, then bottle.
> 
> If you want to up the clarity you can add gelatin (boil a cup of water add a packet of gelatin then pour into the cider) or cold crash it (place in fridge or cold garage). Leave for 3 days then bottle it. It should be plenty clear.


Hmm, interesting! I appreciate the input! I'm just following a friends recipe, he lets his age for a year. It is very clear after that time period! 

I wish I would've known that earlier, I would've had the other carboy full of cider too!

Any particular gelatin to look for? I've never tried that.


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

chris_gee said:


> Since air is the enemy you probably need a smaller second container for topping up after racking.


I use a CO2 charging gun (used for beer) w/ a trigger to shoot some gas into the secondary and into the bottles before filling to displace any air. It works very well to keep everything fresh. A paintball gun CO2 tank w/ a shutoff valve also works well and is cheaper to use.

"Super Kleer KC Finings" works well to clarify wine and I'm sure it would work on cider also.


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## jephotog (Feb 25, 2002)

Honestly you should just age 30 days then bottle it. Wait 3 weeks then start drinking it. Yes it gets better with time but it is still good now so why wait.

The secondary is from old school 15 years ago when I started brewing and up till recently it was felt that yeast ate itself and gave off flavors. Now its believed yeast ages and comes back around to clean up after itself. If you are making a big beer apple cider (high ABV) that you determine needs long aging in bulk (carboy) then rack to secondary after 30 days. It will age in the bottles just fine.

If you have two carboys start a second batch today. Let this one age for the year or at least until the other batch is still going.

A couple of options to mix things up in the cider realm:
Back sweeten with splenda when bottling (add 3/4 cup to 5 gal)
Apfelwein:Add 1-2 lbs of sugar before fermenting to bring up the ABV I usually end up with 7.5% ABV
Graff: 1 gallon of DME based beer with 1 oz of hops add 4 gal of apple juice and ferment as usual
PS any gelatin should work. A clarifying agent is called a fining agent. There are a lot of options but gelatin from the grocery store is the easiest to get. Id skip it this time to see how it looks. Look to finings if you need it.

When bottling you can mix things up as well. Bottle 3 gallons then add some splenda 1/4 cup maybe, bottle a gallon then add another 1/4 cup. Label the caps then sample in a month then 6 months and see which you like like best.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

jephotog said:


> Honestly you should just age 30 days then bottle it. Wait 3 weeks then start drinking it. Yes it gets better with time but it is still good now so why wait.
> 
> The secondary is from old school 15 years ago when I started brewing and up till recently it was felt that yeast ate itself and gave off flavors. Now its believed yeast ages and comes back around to clean up after itself. If you are making a big beer apple cider (high ABV) that you determine needs long aging in bulk (carboy) then rack to secondary after 30 days. It will age in the bottles just fine.
> 
> ...


I'm going to need to print this thread out! :laugher

Great advice... I'll be honest though, i'm not feeling the splenda! I just don't trust any of the manufactured sweetners. That **** eats your brain... Not that the alcohol doesn't either!


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

MacGyverRI said:


> I use a CO2 charging gun (used for beer) w/ a trigger to shoot some gas into the secondary and into the bottles before filling to displace any air. It works very well to keep everything fresh. A paintball gun CO2 tank w/ a shutoff valve also works well and is cheaper to use.
> 
> "Super Kleer KC Finings" works well to clarify wine and I'm sure it would work on cider also.


A guy at the brewing supply shop was telling me about those. He was out of them so they must work great! When I bottle i'll be using old Grolsch bottles. Or i'll pick up some 1 gal. growlers.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Here's my first attempt! Nothing fancy - alot of improvising to make it happen since I don't have anything really put together at the moment... Couple cinder blocks, an old license plate, and a turkey fryer burner. LOL Worked fine and the beer will taste fine i'm hoping.









































































The outcome! 5 gal of beer, 6 gal of cider that'll be ready in a few weeks!


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## jephotog (Feb 25, 2002)

Seems like a lot of work for just 5 gallons. You need to get a second keg, brew 10 gals and ferment in the keg.

You inspired me to do some cider. Just did it tonight. 6 gallons of apple juice 3 pounds of sugar, one packet of wine yeast. Should be ready for gift giving at x-mas.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

jephotog said:


> Seems like a lot of work for just 5 gallons. You need to get a second keg, brew 10 gals and ferment in the keg.
> 
> You inspired me to do some cider. Just did it tonight. 6 gallons of apple juice 3 pounds of sugar, one packet of wine yeast. Should be ready for gift giving at x-mas.


It wasn't "that" much work for 5 gal of beer...  Just a test run to shake some things out.


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## rmeador (Jan 16, 2010)

I can't remember if this has come up in this thread already, my apologies if it has. It occurred to me that ginger beer can be brewed. Homebrew ginger beer would make for a pretty awesome dark and stormy!


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

rmeador said:


> I can't remember if this has come up in this thread already, my apologies if it has. It occurred to me that ginger beer can be brewed. Homebrew ginger beer would make for a pretty awesome dark and stormy!


Indeed! I may have to check that out!


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

I just finished a batch of Absinthe! Kicka$$ stuff.... 140 proof and I'm going to try "Louching" it next weekend.

Louching is creating the cloud by adding the ice water and sugar which in turn reacts with the Absinthe ingredients. This releases the oils into the alcohol and contributes to the added buzz you get when drinking it. 

The 2nd video here shows it. 
Pouring Absinthe French Style


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

MacGyverRI said:


> I just finished a batch of Absinthe! Kicka$$ stuff.... 140 proof and I'm going to try "Louching" it next weekend.
> 
> Louching is creating the cloud by adding the ice water and sugar which in turn reacts with the Absinthe ingredients. This releases the oils into the alcohol and contributes to the added buzz you get when drinking it.
> 
> ...


Wow, that sounds really gnarly... I've never had Absinthe, it's illegal to sell in the states right? I'll have to google how to make it.


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

LandLocked66c said:


> Wow, that sounds really gnarly... I've never had Absinthe, it's illegal to sell in the states right? I'll have to google how to make it.


You can buy it all over now but it doesn't have the actual "thujone", that stuff is banned for retail sale. "Lucid" is a popular brand.

You just buy the wormwood shavings/powder then soak it in grain alcohol for a week or so and strain it to extract the chemicals (including the thujone) from it. Sage is also loaded w/ thujone, 1 tbl. crushed and added w/ the wormwood works well.

There's 2 little bottles (from a brew supply) you also need, Wormwood oils and the Absinthe extracts. Mix all of those w/ 1 quart of Grain alc. and 1 quart of Vodka. (I just used the grain alc.) It comes out looking a nice green like "Midori".

The actual wormwood and sage getting soaked to release the goodies is the key.

*DO NOT drink too much at one time, 2 drinks max to start.

Straight wormwood essential oils can kill you, so be careful!*


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

MacGyverRI said:


> You can buy it all over now but it doesn't have the actual "thujone", that stuff is banned for retail sale. "Lucid" is a popular brand.
> 
> You just buy the wormwood shavings/powder then soak it in grain alcohol for a week or so and strain it to extract the chemicals (including the thujone) from it. Sage is also loaded w/ thujone, 1 tbl. crushed and added w/ the wormwood works well.
> 
> ...


So you can develop a tolerance then? That stuff sounds like it could ruin your night!


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## birdpepper (Oct 20, 2010)

Of course you can homebrew onboard. When I put my mind to a task it typically happens.


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

Remember, It's 150+ proof, so it's just like drinking 2-3 drinks in one glass.

2 Absinthe = 4+ regular drinks in a short space of time.



On a lighter alcohol note, I started a 1 gallon batch of "Apple & Ginger" something today to see what it will taste like. Cider or a Beer???


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## birdpepper (Oct 20, 2010)

Sounds disgusting. I think some of you should take a sabbatical from the hooch.


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

Ginger Beer and Hard Cider are both great so I mixed them and the flavors do work together. The apple part has a nice spicy flavor now.

I also like a Ginger ice cream Sunday w/ blueberry and chocolate sauces on it, topped w/ whipped cream. Everyone who's tried it loved it. That will be my next Liquor.


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## birdpepper (Oct 20, 2010)

I take it we will not see you on the cover of Men's Health anytime soon.


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

Where's the ignore button at??? uke


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## birdpepper (Oct 20, 2010)

I am sure you are a good guy. I just thought that all of the alcohol talk and then the 2000 calorie "Sunday" was a bit too much.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

I've got recipes and i'm itching to make my 6.5 gal carboy available for some IPA!


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

I'll be bottling my Red Ale and brewing up a Bells Two Hearted Ale Clone this weekend. Can't wait!


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## scottyt (Jul 19, 2008)

what ever you do stay away from this web site, with what you already have and 20 bucks at home depot the temptation is bad.

Home Distiller • Index page

because remember what you do with that web site might not be legal where you live, ie: in the USA

Not that i condone anything with the info on the above web site and anything using gerber baby cereal, sugar and peaches. from what i have heard it is good.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

Nice, I did a few batches a few years ago. Fresh ginger makes a nice adjunct btw...

I always wanted to make ginger mead but never did..


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Just finished a batch of Bells Two Hearted Ale. I added more hops at flame out, should be tasty!


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Yesterdays excursion!

Finishing up with the chill down.


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## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

You don't keep the kettle covered during chilling?


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Fstbttms said:


> You don't keep the kettle covered during chilling?


Nah, haven't got that sophisticated.  As you can tell this is almost as cheap a setup as you can get/build. If it was going to get "infected" there are plenty of other opportunities for that to happen. I keep everything clean and probably over sanitize to be sure I get a good outcome. It's not hard, and this shows that you can make great beer very cheaply and easily.


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## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

LandLocked66c said:


> Nah, haven't got that sophisticated.  As you can tell this is almost as cheap a setup as you can get/build.


I don't know how sophisticated you have to be to put a lid or tinfoil over the top of the kettle while chilling the wort.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Fstbttms said:


> I don't know how sophisticated you have to be to put a lid or tinfoil over the top of the kettle while chilling the wort.


Evidently more so than I! 

Have you had a bad experience before? Please share

How long have you been brewing, what's your setup look like?


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## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

Contamination (if it is going to happen) is going to happen post-boil. I'm pretty careful about sanitation and covering the kettle after the wort temp drops below 160 degrees is important.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Trying my hand at some Yuengling this weekend. Here's the recipe i'll be brewing. I'm hoping it's close, it'll be beer, so that's good in itself! 

3.3 lbs light LME
2 lbs Belgian Sugar
1 lb carapils
1/2 lb crystal 40
1 oz cascade (leaf)
1 oz cluster (pellets)
1 tbsp yeast nutrient


steeped specialty grains for 45 minutes at 155*
Add extract and sugar
add cascade at 60 min, cluster at 15 min

Common California Lager Yeast


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

What can I throw together with a packet of champagne yeast? I ended up going with cider yeast when I did my hard cider. I have some empty carboys that need filled while i'm away on vacation!


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## 5hortBu5 (Jul 28, 2010)

Hey Guys,

Dunno if you'd all be interested, but I've got a brewing blog up and running. I'm on the hard, but it might help inspire some of the folks on the fence to go out and get a couple buckets and get brewing. I've made some mistakes on the way, so maybe you could learn a thing or two as well.

I'm at: Runemark Brewery


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Cool, i'll check it out when I get home. Any interesting brews lately?


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## 5hortBu5 (Jul 28, 2010)

Yeah! Pitched a batch of Holiday Ale yesterday. Better late than never, right?

This is my first foray into extra ingredients (sweet orange peel, ginger, cardamom, etc) AND into (relatively) high-gravity beers. This kit was loaded with fermentables, and my OG came out around 1.076. Like they say, life starts at 60. That's 1.060


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## johnnyandjebus (Sep 15, 2009)

First off thanks to the OP for starting this, it has inspired me to dust off the brewing equipment and get back into it. I started with a coopers lager with success, started drinking it this past weekend.
I do have a question, my beer is bottled in clear glass bottles and sitting on the shelf the brew is nice and clear. After a bottle sits in the fridge for a day it turns cloudy, any thoughts?

It was bottled 3 weeks ago.

John


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

johnnyandjebus said:


> First off thanks to the OP for starting this, it has inspired me to dust off the brewing equipment and get back into it. I started with a coopers lager with success, started drinking it this past weekend.
> I do have a question, my beer is bottled in clear glass bottles and sitting on the shelf the brew is nice and clear. After a bottle sits in the fridge for a day it turns cloudy, any thoughts?
> 
> It was bottled 3 weeks ago.
> ...


That's called "chill haze"



> Rapid cooling also forms the Cold Break. This is composed of another group of proteins that need to be thermally shocked into precipitating out of the wort. Slow cooling will not affect them. Cold break, or rather the lack of it, is the cause of Chill Haze. When a beer is chilled for drinking, these proteins partially precipitate forming a haze. As the beer warms up, the proteins re-dissolve. Only by rapid chilling from near-boiling to room temperature will the Cold Break proteins permanently precipitate and not cause Chill Haze. Chill haze is usually regarded as a cosmetic problem. You cannot taste it. However, chill haze indicates that there is an appreciable level of cold-break-type protein in the beer, which has been linked to long-term stability problems. Hazy beer tends to become stale sooner than non-hazy beer. The following are a few preferred methods for cooling the wort.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Next up is a Strong Belgian Ale. 3lbs of Cane Sugar! I love Belgians.


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## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

johnnyandjebus said:


> ...my beer is bottled in clear glass bottles and sitting on the shelf the brew is nice and clear. After a bottle sits in the fridge for a day it turns cloudy, any thoughts?


FYI- when it comes to bottles, clear is the worst choice for packaging beer. Green is bad also. Brown is really the only good option. The reason is that clear and green bottles admit UV light which leads to the beer being "light struck". If you have ever had a Heineken and noticed the skunky aroma when you open the bottle, this is not an intentional aspect of the beer (I remember thinking as a kid that good beer was supposed to smell this way :laugher.) It is an indication that the isohumulones in the hops have been affected by UV light and are breaking down. Brown glass is much better at blocking UV.


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## johnnyandjebus (Sep 15, 2009)

Fstbttms said:


> FYI- when it comes to bottles, clear is the worst choice for packaging beer. Green is bad also. Brown is really the only good option. The reason is that clear and green bottles admit UV light which leads to the beer being "light struck". If you have ever had a Heineken and noticed the skunky aroma when you open the bottle, this is not an intentional aspect of the beer (I remember thinking as a kid that good beer was supposed to smell this way :laugher.) It is an indication that the isohumulones in the hops have been affected by UV light and are breaking down. Brown glass is much better at blocking UV.


Thanks for this, does this mean ideally my carboy should block all sun light during secondary fermentation?

John


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## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

johnnyandjebus said:


> Thanks for this, does this mean ideally my carboy should block all sun light during secondary fermentation?


Yes. Light and heat are beer's enemies. Your carboy should be covered or in the dark as much as possible.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Too bad they don't make amber carboys...


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## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

LandLocked66c said:


> Too bad they don't make amber carboys...


But that would take the fun out of watching the action!


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## denverd0n (Jun 20, 2008)

LandLocked66c said:


> Too bad they don't make amber carboys...


Get a paper grocery bag. Cut a hole in the bottom big enough for the neck of the carboy. Turn upside down over your carboy. Nearly the perfect size for a 5-gallon carboy, and will keep all the sunlight away from your precious beer.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

denverd0n said:


> Get a paper grocery bag. Cut a hole in the bottom big enough for the neck of the carboy. Turn upside down over your carboy. Nearly the perfect size for a 5-gallon carboy, and will keep all the sunlight away from your precious beer.


Great idea, i've seen people use t-shirts as well.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Do you guys like the nylon bags for hops?


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

LandLocked66c said:


> Do you guys like the nylon bags for hops?


Nylon wont leech anything or stain like natural cotton or muslim.

I use them for wines.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

MacGyverRI said:


> Nylon wont leech anything or stain like natural cotton or muslim.
> 
> I use them for wines.


Great! My other friends seem to like them as well.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Here's another interesting one, in my software it computes to around 4.1% alc. I can see this being really refreshing on a hot day.

I'm just wondering what they mean by three pints of yeast??? Ideas anyone?

My thoughts were do the full boil, split it into two 5 gal carboys and use a packet of champagne yeast per carboy... Or perhaps use two packets per??? That's alot of sugar to ferment!



> *A Superior Ginger Beer*
> Classification: historical, ginger beer
> 
> This is taken from "Young's Demonstrative Translation Of Scientific Secrets; Or A Collection Of Above 500 Useful Receipts On A Variety Of Subjects" by Daniel Young. Printed by Rowsell & Ellis, King Street East, Toronto, Canada, 1861.
> ...


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

The most important thing for a great tasting brew is the Lable!

Makes the bubbles bigger too!


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

LandLocked66c said:


> I'm just wondering what they mean by three pints of yeast??? Ideas anyone?
> 
> My thoughts were do the full boil, split it into two 5 gal carboys and use a packet of champagne yeast per carboy... Or perhaps use two packets per??? That's alot of sugar to ferment!


Since this is an "Old recipe" It's possible that they used a "starter" yeast batch (like a sourdough bread starter) for brewing and added the liquid.

1 yeast packet does 5-6 gallons easily.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

On another site we were thinking one packet for one carboy and two for the other. But I concur, I think one will be fine.

I also found out that this won't be "true" ginger beer since I won't be using ginger beer plant - which is a combination of yeast and bacteria. But i'm ok with that, still sounds very palatable to me...


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

MarkofSeaLife said:


> The most important thing for a great tasting brew is the Lable!
> 
> Makes the bubbles bigger too!


I'm so lazy I leave the old labels on!


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## MacGyverRI (Nov 14, 2007)

LandLocked66c said:


> I also found out that this won't be "true" ginger beer since I won't be using ginger beer plant - which is a combination of yeast and bacteria. But i'm ok with that, still sounds very palatable to me...


You can buy sm. bottles of Ginger Beer extract online or a brew shop and drop some into the mix.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

MacGyverRI said:


> You can buy sm. bottles of Ginger Beer extract online or a brew shop and drop some into the mix.


This is ginger beer plant... It's much different from common brewers yeasts.


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## dnf777 (Jun 23, 2007)

I didn't read ALL ten pages, so excuse me if I'm repeating old advice.

The fermenting and racking stages could be sub-optimal if you're in any kind of wave action. I love my homebrew, and pride myself in having clear beer. Cloudy beer is common amongst many homebrewers, and although still good, is not good to look at a sunset through. (a little taste degradation sometimes also)

I keep my vessels perfectly still, in a low-traffic area to ensure proper clarification and sedementation prior to bottling. Boat may not be the best place for this.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

dnf777 said:


> I didn't read ALL ten pages, so excuse me if I'm repeating old advice.
> 
> The fermenting and racking stages could be sub-optimal if you're in any kind of wave action. I love my homebrew, and pride myself in having clear beer. Cloudy beer is common amongst many homebrewers, and although still good, is not good to look at a sunset through. (a little taste degradation sometimes also)
> 
> I keep my vessels perfectly still, in a low-traffic area to ensure proper clarification and sedementation prior to bottling. Boat may not be the best place for this.


Yes, brewing while at anchor and on board kind of evolved after posing the question of "could" you pull it off. We all agreed it could, can, and has been done...


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

dnf777 said:


> The fermenting and racking stages could be sub-optimal if you're in any kind of wave action.


Ummmm. I ferment at sea 

I think its a bit like Mederia. Gtes better with a slight roll  and pleanty of rock


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

I for one don't mind chunks in my beer! As long as it doesn't give me the green apple quick steps!  Too much yeast works very well as a laxative!


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Busy day yesterday! Bottled my Cranpagne, brewed 9 gallons of Ginger Beer then made 2 gallons of Mead.

Mead









Ginger Beer in my new 15 gallon Barrel


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

My brewing has progressed handily since my last post. 

I've gone to All Grain and am totally loving every beer i've made! Extract brewing continually frustrated me with off flavors. 

Right now on tap is an American Wheat and a Blonde Ale.


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## Donna_F (Nov 7, 2005)

"Handily" is putting it mildly! I'm impressed and envious.

I made my own hard cider going on 12 years or so ago. It was a flat cider in the English style (so I said after I discovered I didn't get the carbonation correct) and the alcohol level was almost off the chart. It tasted good but a half bottle knocked me out.

I still have most of the bottles and drink it every so often. Still good, still knocking me out. It's "aged" now.

I have the yeast and honey to try mead but I haven't started it yet.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

DRFerron said:


> "Handily" is putting it mildly! I'm impressed and envious.
> 
> I made my own hard cider going on 12 years or so ago. It was a flat cider in the English style (so I said after I discovered I didn't get the carbonation correct) and the alcohol level was almost off the chart. It tasted good but a half bottle knocked me out.
> 
> ...


I've failed miserably trying to make mead! My cider is ok, one bottle left that i'm letting age. My mead kinda tasted like nail polish remover if I remember correctly!


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## Donna_F (Nov 7, 2005)

LandLocked66c said:


> I've failed miserably trying to make mead! ... My mead kinda tasted like nail polish remover if I remember correctly!


A few people I met online make mead in mason jars, small batches. Just throw a few ingredients into the jars and stick them on a shelf. But, they're English so it may come more naturally.  I may try that, too. Honey is expensive. 

Yesterday I opened a bottle of (commercial) wildberry pyment mead. It's the best I've ever tasted.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

DRFerron said:


> A few people I met online make mead in mason jars, small batches. Just throw a few ingredients into the jars and stick them on a shelf. But, they're English so it may come more naturally.  I may try that, too. Honey is expensive.
> 
> Yesterday I opened a bottle of (commercial) wildberry pyment mead. It's the best I've ever tasted.


Jars are a good idea!

I've got a friend that makes great mead, I had some he's been aging for 5 years. It was very good... I may try my hand at it again.


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

Brewed my first beer in Fiji. No worries. All easy and cheap to boot. Bleach is a cheap sterilizer. Yes it takes a bit of water to keep everything clean, bit with all the rain...

I found the Ales to be better as they tolerate the heat better.

have not tried making spirits yet. Cheap enough in the Philippines at $1.65 a bottle...

Brewing supplies readily available at most supermarkets in NZ and OZ. I think the Wort kit is about 10 bucks and makes 23 liters of grog. Can't find beer any cheaper, anywhere.


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## UPHILL (Dec 22, 2010)

"India pale ale" type beers were made in England and shipped to India in the old days, hence india pale ale. The were made for sail boats with all the sloshing around and heat. So next time find a "India Pale Ale" and hoist it for all that sail..

Dang I am stuck with a "budweiser" right now.

So 

Here
Here


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## Donna_F (Nov 7, 2005)

UPHILL said:


> "India pale ale" type beers were made in England and shipped to India in the old days, hence india pale ale. The were made for sail boats with all the sloshing around and heat. So next time find a "India Pale Ale" and hoist it for all that sail..


Funny given its history. IPAs and hoppy beers are the beers we like the least and the first we'll give away from a variety pack. We like the other end of the spectrum. I used to frequent a beer store in Wilmington where I'd buy a nice dark beer made in Norway that was spectacular. It was an occasional treat at $24 a bottle.



UPHILL said:


> Dang I am stuck with a "budweiser" right now.
> 
> And Budweiser is truly not welcome.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

I brew an IPA with Citra Hops that is delightful! The recipe calls for 8oz. which isn't a ton, but more than usual...


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

American Rye is on TAP - Yum


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Brewing a Citra IPA tonight!


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## Armchairsailor2 (Jun 13, 2011)

DRFerron said:


> ....a nice dark beer made in Norway...


That's an oxymoron, isn't it?  Which bewery was that from? OK, they're not bad beers, but they're not outstanding either. My standard tipple back in the day was from the Trondheim brewery - can't remember the name. Perhaps times have changed?

If you want something to put hairs on your chest, I'll give you a recipe for one I did about 20 years ago. In my foolish innocence I substituted black malt for crystal. Only when mashing it did I notice it was 3 times the amount of black malt needed to make a stout! It tasted fantastic if left to mature, a little like licorice, and with the added function that you could use it to write with!


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## Donna_F (Nov 7, 2005)

Armchairsailor2 said:


> That's an oxymoron, isn't it?


Maybe that's why it's called O.  At least I assume it's an O. It is the only Norwegian beer we've tried so we had nothing to compare it to other than craft beers from other countries. We liked it.

Our beers


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## TampaCat22 (Aug 17, 2011)

I just wanted to post up a great brewing kit for anyone with a small space but wants to brew, check out CraftaBrew.com 

I started the company last year and I think it would be perfect for sailers. We have kits from Hefeweizens to Oak Aged IPAs and I will be adding new recipes every few months.


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## Armchairsailor2 (Jun 13, 2011)

DRFerron said:


> Maybe that's why it's called O.  At least I assume it's an O. It is the only Norwegian beer we've tried so we had nothing to compare it to other than craft beers from other countries. We liked it.
> 
> Our beers


I stand corrected! Looks like the vikings have improved on their offerings somewhat. Or should I possibly say Øfferings? Not surprising, since the only commercially available craft beer I found there (over 93-95) was brewed by an Englishman who had been brought in to up their game. Must've worked. Flott, as they say in those parts. Skøl!


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