# Brightwork Maintenance



## CLOVERMILL (Nov 5, 2006)

NEED HELP WITH MY BRIGHTWORK. My grab bars, dorade boxes and trim are teak and have been done in the past with Epiphanes. What is best way to maintain and freshen these up? How do you deal with spots where the varnish has chipped off and has exposed the grey teak, while the rest is a rich dark color? I also have noticed that some sections have turned a yellowish color, almost like a staining which I have also seen on other boats. Looking for good advice and techniques. Thanks, Dennis.


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

Sanding and more sanding is what I do, then re apply the varnish.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

When ever anyone asks Skip what he uses on his teak to make it look so good, it is always the same reply. A scrub brush. While there is plenty on MISTRESS that has varnish, all our teak is natural. About twice a month I take out a scrub brush, add a little bleach to some water, and use elbow grease to clean them up. When done, they are a beautiful color and all of the grey is gone. When they get wet, they turn a pretty golden color. 

With reference to varnish itself. Skip has always used epiphanes until just before the launch when he was running out of time. He opted to try Bristol finish which is suppose to last two years here in the Florida sun. It is now one year 4 months old and looks as good as the day it was laid. Nice thing about Bristol was he was able to lay 5 coats down the first day, give a quick scuff the second day, and then apply one more coat. Big time savings over epiphanes. 
Kathleen
aboard
Schooner MISTRESS


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## Boasun (Feb 10, 2007)

Bright work?? what brightwork... Due to the judicious use of a paint brush, I don't worry about any brightwork...

Mainly because I haven't bought my next boat yet either.


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

I dont worry about brightwork either. 
I have a teak farm and covered it with "Honey Teak" 6 years ago and probably have another 6 years before I have to 'redo' it. Just a quick scuff with a scotchbright pad followed by two quick coats of 'clear' every two years ... and a quick light power-buff in the intervening years. Needs to be applied 'thick' (wet on wet on wet) initially. www.signaturefinish.com


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## leecarlson (May 13, 2006)

*Sand, don't scrub*

Hello Dennis, just found this thread while I was searching for something else, so sorry about the late reply; hope it still helps. Definitely the only right way to do it is strip, sand and bleach. Lots of good books, website advice on the subject that will tell you what grit sandpaper, etc.

The one thing I wanted to emphasize is, if you leave the teak natural, DON'T scrub the natural teak with a regular scrub brush. Hard bristles will remove the soft cellulose fibers over time, leaving you with teak that has ridges/valleys and must be deeply sanded and eventually replaced. Even the soft bristle brushes used by professional crew on boats with teak decks will cause wear if used too hard and too often. That's why in the olden days they used to "holystone" the decks.

In the long run, some sort of coating is always best to protect the wood. If you leave it natural, it will eventually rot and need to be replaced. Maybe 10 years, maybe 20, maybe 30, but eventually it will happen.

I'm about to redo all exterior teak on my boat with Bristol Finish. A formidable task on a 62-foot boat, but from all the people I know that have done it, well worth the effort, in looks, ease of application and longevity. I just don't like the looks of any of the new one-step teak stains such as Cetol or Honey Teak. Looks cheap, IMHO.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Do you need to completely sand the old finish off before reapplying Cetol or can you freshen it up with light sanding and then a few more coats?


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

If it's cracking, checking or peeling it all needs to come off because the foundation is toast.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

CC,
Thanks. No mine is just a little worn and scratched in spots, otherwise tigh and in good condition. I was hoping I could just dress it up without having to strip it all off.


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

te, 
Normally, one seasonal recoating is all that Cetol requires, after only a light scuffing with a Scotch Brite pad. In the past, some areas of my Cetol finish have gotten a bit worn, sometimes down to bare wood. This is the nature of Cetol, being somewhat soft.

All the worn areas require is to lightly sand just the exposed wood and feather the edges of surrounding Cetol. Then apply a couple coats of fresh Cetol - while blending in the new to the old finish level. This is not difficult and doesn't take long. I even use a disposable foam applicator, so there's no clean-up involved.

Last season, I applied a couple coats of Cetol Clear gloss and have found the finish to be much harder, requiring fewer touch-ups. Subsequent annual maintenance coats are Clear, but keep some Light (Marine or Natural if that's what you've used) for future bare wood or scratched area touch-ups.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

TB,
Thanks. I have lot of teak in the cockpit and it's mostly just scratched with only one very small area of bare wood. Rather than just touch up the scratched area I'll probably put a coat on all of the seating area. I'll make sure I scuff it up good before I do that. Probably a Spring project now since I think I've lost the weather window.


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## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

I applied my yearly Cetol re-application yesterday and it looks great. I'm always amazed at how good it looks after I'm done. Knowing that it will last a year makes the 4 hour job well worth it.

If you're applying any Cetol other than Gloss, make sure that you have a paper towel moistened with paint thinner handy to clean up drips. Cetol will leave a stain if wiped without the thinner. Another note is to make sure that you're done well before sunset (especially during this time of year) to make sure that the surface is dry before any dew settles (advice applies for almost all finishes).


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

Does anyone use the French Linseed based Varnish called Le Tonkinois? It is a very thick and seems to be durable finish.


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## tenuki (Feb 11, 2007)

I have learned to love the small bits of grey on my boat...  Some people may see ugly, bit I see hours spent sailing.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Amigo, sand your teak down to bare wood. (Easier if you can remove it first). Then coat it with a good marine "Teak Oil" it will be dark and pretty. Then you only have to recoat it every 6 months or so. Very easy, allowing for mass amounts of sailinf with nice teak!!!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Don't like that teak oil stuff and then if I do that I need to sand everything else and that's a lot of sailing missed!


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

I agree regarding teak oil. It just attracts dirt, stains clothes and blackens through oxidation - requiring nasty bleaching chemicals and sanding.

I used to oil our teak cockpit table but gave up after a season. It's now left to weather to a silver grey - matching the teak decks.


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## LyleRussell (May 3, 2006)

Get the book "Brightwork" by Rebecca Wittman. It's an easy read. She is a professional boat refinisher in the Seattle area who clearly knows her stuff. The book is full of time and labor saving ideas. And she has tried all the possible finishes and knows what works and what doesn't.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

One of the first books I bought four years ago, after purchasing a marine token to rainforest deforestation, was Brightwork . . . and a truely inspirational coffee table book (with some very engaging instructions) of what a properly varnished vessel should look like.

I must confess however, that after reading it from cover to cover and salivating over all the finished examples of a full season's worth of sweat & strain, I was fully convinced that I'd rather go sailing. I love Cetol.


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## NCountry (May 25, 2006)

A sailor showed up in our marina that had spent several years in the Sea of Cortez. He laughed when he saw all the work going into keeping the teak on the local boats then he disclosed a "magic formula" for teak oil. I was wondering if anyone has seen this done and if so what are the longterm results. One boat has done this so far and the results were astonishing to say the least.
2 parts boiled linseed oil, 1 part turpentine, 1 can of clear Kiwi Wax. Mix the linseed oil and turpentine. Melt the Kiwi Wax in the microwave. Once melted mix with the linseed oil/turpentine mixture and shake until the Kiwi emulsifies. Coat your teak and walk away.
He says he only had to re-apply this mixture about every six months. His teak didn't fade or crack. It stayed dark and rich looking, never needed sanding or any other maintenance. 
The teak on the boat that has applied this mixture is looking "mahvelous dahling". It appears to be working as we were told it would. Anyone know anything about this?


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## Wetfun (Apr 1, 2006)

*Citristrip*

Use Citristrip to remove the old stuff, works great, is water based, just keep moist for an hour or so and wipe the old stuff off.


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

An old woodworker told me to use 2 parts boiled linseed oil, 1 part turpentine to keep air dried wood from checking. To paint all 6 sides with it. It worked.


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## Mortimer49735 (Jul 2, 2007)

*Finishing Brightwork*

I have used Cetol light in the past and was not happy with either the color or the cloudy finish obtained over time. However, this year we sanded the brightwork and applied four coats of Sikkens Natural Teak and two coats of gloss and was extremely happy. A light scrub every year and one coat of clear (gloss) is supposed to be the most required to protect the finish. Time will tell, but it sure looks great now!


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Amen to that... 


TrueBlue said:


> *... I was fully convinced that I'd rather go sailing...*


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## halyardz (Sep 2, 2000)

*Brightwork Misc.*

For "bright" woodworking projects (also in the cabin for drawer slides etc) I've used a product called Slipit (use the non-silicon, Woodworkers, green cans). If you put it on your saw blades (or table for that matter) it won't cause fisheye etc. You can also use the stuff on any combo of metal, plastic, wood and as a brass preservative but I've found several light coats are better than a heavy coat. I also use it on my sail track. You can't find it in too many stores so I order from their website slipit.com). Although, I must admit, I'm a fan of minimal brightwork...more time sailing.


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## NCountry (May 25, 2006)

I tried the "magic formula" from the old salt. IT IS AWESOME...the wood repels water like crazy and looks just as good as the day I applied it. Once again it's one part turpentine, 2 parts boiled linseed oil. Then melt a can of clear Kiwi Wax (apparently it's almost 100% carnuba) in the microwave. Once melted pour in with the turpentine/linseed oil mix. Shake like crazy and apply. I'm still amazed at the results. The first boat in the marina that applied it has had in on almost 6 months now and it still looks dark and rich and STILL is repeling water....Wow, who would have thought something this easy and cheap would work so well.


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## NoWet (Jan 27, 2009)

*filler*

I have this exterior rail running along the sides of the cabin top. In one place there is a gap of about 1/16". In the picture, you can see the daylight coming thru the gap. I'm sanding this teak and will put some Slikkens on it. However, do I need, or should I fill that gap with anything?

I don't want to take the entire rail off, but would like to protect the wood within the gap.

Thanks .


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

It looks like the wood is warping a bit. You could flood it with penetrating epoxy, clean the excess up with denatured alcohol. Run a tape line to protect the glass and get some varnish down in there or whatever you use.


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## NoWet (Jan 27, 2009)

Thanks CC. What type of epoxy would you suggest?


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## Pub911 (Oct 25, 2007)

That strip looks like an 'eyebrow' above your portlights...it's supposed to deflect water running off your cabin top so that your ports don't take the full brunt and leak. I can see a bung in the picture I think. The right way to fix this situation is to chisel out the bung, remove the hardware, clean up under the trim, bed the piece using an appropriate (polysulphide) calk, like Lifecalk, refasten, rebung and then finish the piece to your liking. 

Or you could just calk it with some goop and go sailing.


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

I use Smith's because they invented the stuff. Ya might try pulling it and rebedding it to close that gap as Pub said.


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

Pub is correct. That wooden feature on your boat is called an 'eyebrow' and should help divert water away from your port lights. In my boat they anchor the nut for the bolts that hold grab bars in place on the roof of the salon/main cabin. 
You might find some cheap 'rippings' of teak at a good lumberyard near you. I found small stuff like this for $5/bd. ft. at a local yard.


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## NoWet (Jan 27, 2009)

> Or you could just calk it with some goop and go sailing.


I like doing things the right way, but this "eyebrow" is a good 14-16' long, and I think that doing it the right way will be for a later date.










More importantly:

Thanks for the name. You are correct in it's function, or in the case of this boat, non-function: 
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/73356-seal-portlights-butyl-tape-2.html#post724674


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## primerate84 (Jun 14, 2006)

I just stripped and refinished my wood spreaders and this time, I used a heat gun to remove the old Cetol. It worked better than any other process I used in the past. It also was faster overall. Took off all of the old stuff, right down to the bare wood. I couldn't believe the result. I then used a mixture of TSP, water and bleach (mixture is listed on the back of the TSP) to clean the wood and kill any remaining mildew (the black stains you commonly see) and once dry, sanded lightly with 220 grit paper. Use a tack rag to remove any remaining dust. I reapplied a coat of Cetol Light and five additional coats of Cetol Gloss. The finish looks awesome.

Don't use a hair dryer in place of a heat gun, either. You need to get the temperature high enough to loosen the bond of the old finish and a hair dryer doesn't get hot enough. Also be careful of scorching the wood with the heat gun.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

NCountry said:


> I tried the "magic formula" from the old salt. IT IS AWESOME...the wood repels water like crazy and looks just as good as the day I applied it. Once again it's one part turpentine, 2 parts boiled linseed oil. Then melt a can of clear Kiwi Wax (apparently it's almost 100% carnuba) in the microwave. Once melted pour in with the turpentine/linseed oil mix. Shake like crazy and apply. I'm still amazed at the results. The first boat in the marina that applied it has had in on almost 6 months now and it still looks dark and rich and STILL is repeling water....Wow, who would have thought something this easy and cheap would work so well.


 You state a can on Kiwi Wax, but how much (in cups or quarts say) of turpentine would be used?


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## brokesailor (Jan 12, 2008)

What is TSP?


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

brokesailor said:


> What is TSP?


Trisodium Phosphate. It's been banned from soaps and detergents in the USA for decades due to it's harm to the environment. You can buy it in it raw form and add it back, but that's also banned in many places. Keep it out of the water and off the ground.


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## safira (May 10, 2010)

Hello to CLOVERMILL; Teak is a nice addition to any boat and is simple to take care of depending on the finish you do ... most of the work is in the preping of the wood and reading it while working on it ... what I thought would be a few days turned out to be a week or so when I did mine ... look at this site and perhaps have the guy on it come to you ... P&G Associates The brightwok specialists business website ... good luck


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

NoWet said:


> Thanks CC. What type of epoxy would you suggest?


Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy.


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

Minnewaska said:


> Trisodium Phosphate. It's been banned from soaps and detergents in the USA for decades due to it's harm to the environment. You can buy it in it raw form and add it back, but that's also banned in many places. Keep it out of the water and off the ground.


TSP was banned in 'widespread' and common detergent applications. It isnt banned in food application nor painting or wood prep application ... except in the eco-whacko areas that also ban the usage of or saying of the word - "chemistry".


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