# Seafarer 24 swing keel, keel pivot? Sailing qualities?



## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

In a moment of weakness last night I purchased a "sight unseen" Seafarer 24 swing keel on Ebay. 

I've never seen one, and don't like swing keels. But it was only 50 miles away and cheap. Also, I've looked at a lot of boats recently, Ericsons and the one Seafarer (fixed keel) I saw really stood out.

Question 1: Anyone familiar with what the pivot pin is made of? That's my biggest concern. If it turns out to be a stainless bolt, is there some special stainless marine alloy I should acquire? Or just buy the best available at the hardware store.

Any other pivot info would be appreciated (trunks, leaks, strengths, weaknesses).

Question 2: Has anyone sailed on one of these boats? I expect to work on it for a year or so and will tailor my efforts to the expected quality of sailing, i.e., more effort if it's a good performer, cheaper way out if it's a dog. I'll be sailing the coast and bays of Maine. Maybe some of the larger lakes, I'm on a small lake and near Sebago Lake.

I'm thinking with the narrow (less than 8' in the charts) beam and the swing keel I could trailer it anywhere, but again, I don't want to get a real nice trailer if the boat doesn't point fairly well and sail at least OK.

My truck can easily tow the weight of two or three of this size boat on a trailer, so that's not an issue. 

Thank you to anyone who chimes in, good or bad!


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Found this on the net for Seafarer 24:

Ballast. Fixed lead ballast, total weight 1,200 lbs (c/b), 1,400 lbs (keel). Hydro-dynamically streamlined fiberglass *centerboard* on centerboard model *weight 342 lbs*. incorporates 207 lbs. additional lead ballast and is worm gear winch operated to provide positive continuous position control at all times. Centerboard swings up if it hits an obstruction and can be removed for painting from the outside the boat without any risk of leaks. Lead ballast custom cast and weighed by Seafarer, structurally laminated to hull and centerboard.

So, at least it (the centerboard) is not as heavy as I imagined, it sounds quite good actually. I could go to new areas and find all the hidden thin water and rocks, without sinking! 

Real good for lakes, where charts are non existent or very poor. Lots of unmarked granite even in the big lakes I have charts for.


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## OtterGreen (May 10, 2011)

i have a santana 23 with a swing keel, you will not regret it . There is maybe one place that i cannot go in the area i sail. otherwise with keel and rudder up, i can operate in 12 inches of water.


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## swampcreek (Feb 14, 2010)

We love our swing keel, we can go almost anywhere we want! I'd get a "will do" trailer at first unless you plan on dry sailing, we use our trailer only a couple times a year and thats only for seasonal transition and we did pull out for Irene. We will be in a larger boat within a few years but there are many things I'll miss about out current boat...one is the swing keel and rudder.


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## lillia28 (Aug 12, 2011)

A friend of mine has a Seafarer 24, swing keel. It is a good solid, well mannered boat. He has taken some long trips in it. I think you will be happy. I also had a Macgregor 22 with a SWING KEEL, which I loved. Now I have a depth sounder, and worry more
Lou
Mariner 28
Fair Haven NJ


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Thanks all for the encouragement! Glad you like yours. I haven't even been told where to see mine yet mad , I can see it's at a private residence from the photos.

I like this comment:


lillia28 said:


> Now I have a depth sounder, and worry more
> Lou
> Mariner 28
> Fair Haven NJ




I'll probably just use my swing keel as my depth finder.


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## jamesnewsome (Jul 30, 2000)

*Congratulations on the S24 purchase*

Skygazer,

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by the quality and performance of the Seafarer 24. The boat and manufacturer has quite a history. She was built in Huntington, NY and was designed by Philip Rhodes & James McCurdy.

Sailboat Designs of *McCurdy & Rhodes

I wouldn't be too concerned about the Stainless Steel pin for the swing keel. It is (if it's the same as the Seafarer 29) permanently embedded in the fiberglass trunk. I'm not aware of any issues with the pin. The keel cable is another matter. If it is stainless steel I highly advise replacing it with a synthetic line like Kevlar. Stainless steel cable will deteriorate in salt water within a matter of weeks. The last thing you want is a weighted keel crashing down when the cable breaks. There are documented occurrences of this happening and severe damage to the fiberglass hull, loss of the keel completely, and near sinking has resulted.

I also have a swing keel (Seafarer 29) and I do not raise the keel unless I've hit bottom or grounding is eminent. As soon as I have sufficient water under the keel, it goes back down. I switched to a Kevlar cable and it's been on my boat for 10 years, and I'm in salt water.

There is some information on the S24 available at SailboatData.com.

SEAFARER 24 sailboat on sailboatdata.com

I also suggest joining two online resources for Seafarer owners.

Sailnet Seafarer Forum

Seafarer - SailNet Community

Seafarer Yacht Group on Facebook.

Log In | Facebook

You may also find some helpful information at the Seafarer Research Center. Unfortunately, the owner hasn't updated the web site in some time, but there is still a lot of good info available.

Seafarer Research Center

I hope this is helpful.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

jamesnewsome said:


> I hope this is helpful.


Very helpful, thank you. I would not have dreamed of considering a synthetic line for the keel cable, I thought stainless was "de rigueur" for that purpose.

I have found that the chain I originally used for mooring my floating docks in a fresh water lake were eaten up in a few years, but after switching to nylon or poly (forget which) lines they have lasted a decade.

I'm sorry to say I avoid facebook, don't care to publish my personal info worldwide and am concerned about the many security breaches there.


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## Mornar (Jan 25, 2011)

Congrats to purchasing the Seafarer. I have owned a similar one for many years and was very pleased with it.
I would be happy to share with you photos etc - things i have done on my boat - if you are interested. 
You can contact me directly at [email protected] 
cheers
Zoran, Montreal


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## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

*Re: Congratulations on the S24 purchase*



jamesnewsome said:


> Skygazer,
> _
> 
> I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by the quality and performance of the Seafarer 24. The boat and manufacturer has quite a history. She was built in Huntington, NY and was designed by Philip Rhodes & James McCurdy.
> ...


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## souljour2000 (Jul 8, 2008)

Good boat...nice looking boat too if it's traditional deck...Mine was a racer for most of it's life and was rigged custom by original owner who knew what he wanted,,split adjustable backstays,all lines to cockpit,etc....some were kits where the owner added rigging.... I owned one for a year before moving onto a C-29 as I needed more headroom. I had the traditional deck...which only had 4'11 headroom...the "futura" deck version gives you almost 6-foot headroom I hear...Congrats and enjoy...those boats can take a beating for their size...just have a drop board or three in and the hatch closed when it gets to blowin as the companionway thresh-hold is fairly low...I still miss her a bit I'll say and here's a few pics i have of her..


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## Lou452 (Mar 2, 2012)

as a pipefitter I see some nasty chemicals run in ss pipe at some high temps. What grade or type of SS is used in marine practice? When you mix metal or let them have contact with each other I will buy into the idea of rapid failure. I am new to this salt water eats SS like candy. I know Divers are told to wash the dive knife. I would like to know more about how fast and what is the life span of SS in marine use But this is off subject So I hope you have a good time with your new boat keep us in the know on how well she preforms


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

oysterman23, good point about cutting and abrasion resistance of steel versus synthetic line for the centerboard pennant. Also, a good point about the electrical potentials in marinas. 

The abrasion/cutting idea makes me think I'll just keep what I have for awhile.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Mornar said:


> Congrats to purchasing the Seafarer. I have owned a similar one for many years and was very pleased with it.
> I would be happy to share with you photos etc - things i have done on my boat - if you are interested.
> You can contact me directly at [email protected]
> cheers
> Zoran, Montreal


Thank you Mornar, I may take you up on that. Do you have a photo of the skylight over the galley? My boat has a few solid fiberglass panels that slide in a long track from the companionway entrance to almost the mast. The last section near the mast is a skylight, it looks old but looks like it's not original or no longer has the original flashing or weather proofing. I need to do something to tighten it up against the weather.

It is screwed down by perhaps five very long stainless screws along the forward edge. It is shimmed up so high that the mast could not be rotated down on the tabernacle hinge to a low position. It seems to me that the original skylight (if it was a light) would also be able to slide in the track.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

souljour2000 said:


> Good boat...nice looking boat too if it's traditional deck...Mine was a racer for most of it's life and was rigged custom by original owner who knew what he wanted,,split adjustable backstays,all lines to cockpit,etc....some were kits where the owner added rigging.... I owned one for a year before moving onto a C-29 as I needed more headroom. I had the traditional deck...which only had 4'11 headroom...the "futura" deck version gives you almost 6-foot headroom I hear...Congrats and enjoy...those boats can take a beating for their size...just have a drop board or three in and the hatch closed when it gets to blowin as the companionway thresh-hold is fairly low...I still miss her a bit I'll say and here's a few pics i have of her..


Wow, your boat is a lot nicer inside than mine. Actually, the other Seafarers I've seen were also impressively nice, mine must have had the cheap interior. Nevertheless, the overall boat seems solid and well thought out. I have your picture of the rigged boat as my desktop, glad you mentioned the split adjustable backstays, I wondered about that. I have the traditional look, but would probably be glad to have the headroom in the uglier "Futura" model.


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## souljour2000 (Jul 8, 2008)

Yeah she had some nice features inside.., I added a wood floor of sorts made from wooden venetian blinds encapsulated in epoxy...the one photo was taken before I finished painting the cabin sole forward...I loved the sturdy old compression post they put in her and the bronze winch and pedestal arrangement worked well...she also surfs downwind very well with that aerodynamic ballasted swing keel. Enjoy that boat...and toast one to McCurdy/Rhodes...


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## lillia28 (Aug 12, 2011)

I second Oysterman's recommendation. If you weigh the ease of doing it when the boat is out of the water, vs in the water, a routine replacement every 3-5 years seems logical, regardless of stainless or synthetic. My keel pendant broke,the unrestrained keel punched a hole in the trunk, and I ended up getting the boat hauled, as I couldn't get it back on the trailer. Comparing that to the 20 minutes or so it takes while on the trailer makes preventive maintenance preferable. I am told that the "blue steel" synthetic line is "chafe proof", but have not used it. I am planning on experimenting with a synthetic mooring cable this season.
lou


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## jamesnewsome (Jul 30, 2000)

From a couple previous posts there seems to be some skepticism concerning my comment about the SS cable "parting," apparently due to electrolysis. This was not a second-hand report. It happened to me in 2000 when I launched my Seafarer 29.' ROMA had been in the water about a month when I noticed the loose SS cable on the winch in the cockpit. When I pulled it up the cable appeared to be "parted" about mid-length as if I had pulled from each end until it broke. Imagine a cheap cotton rope that you can pull apart.

Since this cable was installed by the previous owner prior to my purchase I assumed it was just a bad cable or not a good quality SS. I had a diver coming the same day to clean the bottom so he disconnected the other end and I took the broken SS cable to West Marine and had it send to their rigging shop to make another one. I also made sure they knew how it was going to be used.

After installing the new cable I thought I was home free until about a month later the same thing happened. I started reading and asking questions and the consensus was that the fine strands of the SS cable were subject to natural electrolysis since Stainless Steel is actually an alloy and thus contains metals of different nobility. The fine strands of the SS cable apparently allow the electrolysis process to accelerate.

I was also concerned about stray electricity around my boat so I reported the issue to the marina management and they promptly had their electrician check out the area and found no problem.

When I took the second SS cable back to W. Marine their rigging shop suggested Kevlar, which is actually stronger than SS for the same size line. 11 years later the Kevlar cable is still on ROMA and performing well. I have the bottom cleaned every month to 6 weeks, and I've cleaned it many times myself. Yes, barnacles and slim sometimes do grow on the Kevlar cable but can be removed by rubbing with my glove.

There is no sign of any abrasive wear on the Kevlar cable. Interestingly, try to cut a piece of Kevlar with a knife or wire cutters. You will find it difficult to cut even a small stand. After all, this is the material used to make bullet proof vest so the fibers are extremely strong and do not easily cut. Wonder what would happen to a bullet proof jacket made of SS cables? 

When I had ROMA pulled a couple years ago I had asked the boatyard to replace the Kevlar cable, but they forgot. So that original Kevlar is still on the boat. I do occasionally have to winch up the keel, and I have a chance to inspect the line on the drum. Other than being a little stained it still looks fine.

The bottom line is that I do not completely understand the science or the exact nature of the issue that took place with the two SS cables. I do, however, completely understand the reality of the situation as it occurred on my boat, and I try to share this experience any time the subject come up.

Unfortunately, there have been several documented cases of weighted keels tearing the bottom out of sailboats because the keel cable broke. Your guess is as good as mine about whether electrolysis was the cause or there was another issue.

Since I had my original Kevlar cable made by West Marine, the newer Amsteel Blue Synthetic lines have come to market. And they have superior ratings over SS or Kevlar, so next time I'll probably switch to this material.

I hope this was helpful to anyone interested.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

I'm interested, thank you. Seems strange that it lasted such a short time (unless of course it was made in China with a "lifetime guarantee").

I can't imagine wearing a steel bullet proof vest through a metal detector! 

I have not ever tried cutting Kevlar. I've read that bullet proof vests are not particularly knife proof, I believe Kevlar has great tensile strength but did not realize it might resist cutting.

"The bottom line" - great choice of words for this particular issue.


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## lillia28 (Aug 12, 2011)

james,
I hope my post was not one you deemed doubting.
I am cautiously experimenting with replacing a lot of steel products with synthetic, and I appreciate your comments. My point was that replacing a cable when the boat is out of the water is so much easier and cheaper than changing in the water that it "pays" to be conservative. With the haul out and trunk repair, it was several hundred $$ vs. $30.00 or so for the cable. I've outlived enough lifetime warranties to be skeptical of of pretty much everything. That is more in line with Mark Twain's comments on learning from experience, that a character judgement. Sorry if I expressed myself badly.
Lou


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## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

james. Please excuse did not intend any personal slight and do understand that the ss cable issue is not simple. I was reading up on it last night actually...I almost went with the new line as well and may do so this spring if I see any trouble down there at all. The notion that the small diameter steel strands are prone to the pitting effect corrosion that is often noted with the ss underwater makes plenty of sense to me so forgive any unintended slight and lets use my boat as another lab rat since we already have your valid and kind of alarming example let me tell you I dont want to be around for another centerboard letting go! Once is enough thanks
anyway pax and best sailing in the Seafarer!
Cod


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

jamesnewsome said:


> After installing the new cable I thought I was home free until about a month later the same thing happened. I started reading and asking questions and the consensus was that the fine strands of the SS cable were subject to natural electrolysis since Stainless Steel is actually an alloy and thus contains metals of different nobility. The fine strands of the SS cable apparently allow the electrolysis process to accelerate.
> 
> Since I had my original Kevlar cable made by West Marine, the newer Amsteel Blue Synthetic lines have come to market. And they have superior ratings over SS or Kevlar, so next time I'll probably switch to this material.
> 
> I hope this was helpful to anyone interested.


I edited the above post, click small blue arrowhead to read the whole thing.

James, regardless of the pros and cons of synthetic line, having two stainless steel cables part in a month is amazing, there must be something more going on. While I agree the small strands of the cable make galvanic corrosion easier (more surface area per unit of volume), I don't agree that being an alloy is the cause. Galvanic corrosion happens when two dissimilar metals touch or are connected electrically. In an alloy I believe the metals are blended, and since each strand should have the same content there should be no galvanic corrosion.



jamesnewsome said:


> I was also concerned about stray electricity around my boat so I reported the issue to the marina management and they promptly had their electrician check out the area and found no problem.


This is where I'm a bit doubtful. The electrician may have been testing for 120V AC stray current, a dangerous condition that can happen. He may not have been testing for a very weak (1.5 volt or less) DC charge. In fact, I'm not sure if he wouldn't have to have the correct alloy probe to measure it since it is in effect a chemical battery which depends on the metals involved.

Further, it is possible that the currents are within your own boat. One month is just too fast! There must be a problem.

I agree that the whole science involved is not intuitive. Here is a link that gives a decent explanation and may help you to discover where the problem lies, before it finds something else to attack.

BoatUS: Seaworthy

It's from a marine insurance company, they are motivated to reduce claims so the info is unbiased.


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## Lou452 (Mar 2, 2012)

I may be the one that is deemed doubting and that is ok because I have little experience with salt water and cable. This is a great fourm for learning and it may save me a lot of $. Someplace along the way I may learn a thing or two. The world needs less yes men and more civil expressions ! Now I would like to know more about the grade of SS cable in use and more about Synthetics


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## sailered (Mar 20, 2012)

I am looking at a Seafarer 24 with the swing keel. Any idea how much of the keel is exposed when fully retracted? I am trying to determine if the trailer I am looking at would have sufficient clearance.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

sailered said:


> I am looking at a Seafarer 24 with the swing keel. Any idea how much of the keel is exposed when fully retracted? I am trying to determine if the trailer I am looking at would have sufficient clearance.


Mine is just over 6 inches from the belly of the hull. I think I allowed 10 inches, and when the boat was tipped going onto the trailer it rubbed, then was free and clear after it cleared the end of the trailer.

I was dry loading on land, not floating it on.


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## jamesnewsome (Jul 30, 2000)

sailered said:


> I am looking at a Seafarer 24 with the swing keel. Any idea how much of the keel is exposed when fully retracted? I am trying to determine if the trailer I am looking at would have sufficient clearance.


I have a Seafarer 29, which is of similar design. Although I've never measured the exposed keel below the boat when in the retracted position, my best guess is no more than 12".

Go to the link below for a S24 named Satori. There are several good photos of the boat on a trailer with the keel fully retracted.

Satori, our Seafarer 24 - Gregg's Photos


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

James, thank you for that link. "Satori" is my boat now, purchased her last fall. I didn't know about these pictures, which should be very helpful when I try to rig it for the first time. Needs some work first.

First thing I did was measure the drop of the fully raised keel so I could fit it onto my heavy equipment trailer. It was very close to exactly 6 inches, just a bit over at one point on one end.

One picture on that site shows a separate forestay and roller furling headsail. I have zero experience with a roller furler, and actually hate the idea. I like to change jibs according to the wind conditions (hank on). If however one could furl the Genoa and hank on a working jib to the forestay, that might be OK.

Do you (or anyone) have any experience with this?


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

I enlarged the photo and see that the furled Genoa is quite large in the center, and would likely disrupt airflow with a hanked on jib. 

Would this matter much if I was only doing it because there was too much wind?


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## sailered (Mar 20, 2012)

skygazer said:


> Mine is just over 6 inches from the belly of the hull. I think I allowed 10 inches, and when the boat was tipped going onto the trailer it rubbed, then was free and clear after it cleared the end of the trailer.
> 
> I was dry loading on land, not floating it on.


Thanks for the info. Looks like the trailer will work.


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## jamesnewsome (Jul 30, 2000)

skygazer said:


> James, thank you for that link. "Satori" is my boat now, purchased her last fall. I didn't know about these pictures, which should be very helpful when I try to rig it for the first time. Needs some work first.
> 
> First thing I did was measure the drop of the fully raised keel so I could fit it onto my heavy equipment trailer. It was very close to exactly 6 inches, just a bit over at one point on one end.
> 
> ...


I have a Shaffer wire furler which does allow for easily dropping the furled sail and replacing with a hank-on while under way. The wire furlers were some of the earliest furling system, and fell out of favor but are making a comeback because of sail-changing while underway. I'll try to find some links and post.


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## 71Seafer34 (Jun 19, 2013)

Hey, I am new and have a question for you guys. I bought a Seafarer 34 a few months ago and am tackling the task of getting the original centerboard out. It is completely rotten and not much is left but if I can get it off the pin it should all come out. That's the question, how do you get these things off the pin? The pin is not removable so there must have been something that bolts up over a slot it fit into? Please any help would be appreciated!


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## jamesnewsome (Jul 30, 2000)

71Seafer34 said:


> Hey, I am new and have a question for you guys. I bought a Seafarer 34 a few months ago and am tackling the task of getting the original centerboard out. It is completely rotten and not much is left but if I can get it off the pin it should all come out. That's the question, how do you get these things off the pin? The pin is not removable so there must have been something that bolts up over a slot it fit into? Please any help would be appreciated!


I've posted your question about the swing keel pin on the Seafarer's group on Facebook and asked someone with knowledge of this model to come over and answer your question. Do you have a Seafarer 24 or Seafarer 34? You state "24" in the subject line, but "34" in the message body?


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## 71Seafer34 (Jun 19, 2013)

Thank you! My vessel is a 34cb. I posted it here because there is literally no information on this boat anywhere on the net. I thought anyone with a seafarer might know something. I should join up with the Facebook group. Hopefully someone out there has one of these.


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## SailingChance (Aug 29, 2012)

We have a Seafarer 34 with a swing keel. We just finished fixing up our keel a couple of weeks ago as it had become quite pitted: Swingin' Sailing Chance | Sailing through the Caribbean | Sailing Chance | Sailing through the Caribbean

The facebook group that was previously posted has been EXTREMELY helpful when working on our boat, and we've been pretty much rebuilding her completely. Here's the link again. https://www.facebook.com/groups/seafareryachts/

Kelley
Sailing Chance | Sailing through the Caribbean | Sailing Chance | Sailing through the Caribbean
facebook.com/sailingchance


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## 71Seafer34 (Jun 19, 2013)

Thank you very much for the response and link to your site. I found your site a few months ago when my girlfriend and I first purchased our boat but did not see the extensive section you had up documenting your construction. You confirmed what I already guessed (and dreaded) about the centerboard, what were they thinking?! Thanks again for the help!


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

I found this information about the centerboard being removable on the Seafarer 24:

" Centerboard swings up if it hits an obstruction and *can be removed for painting from the outside of the boat *without any risk of leaks."

This implies that there is a certain way to swing/lift, push forward or whatever puzzling move to unhook the board, even though the pin is fixed. Of course, pins wear out also, but perhaps the idea is to prevent the need for leaky old gaskets around a removable pin.

I have not tried to remove mine so I have no idea what the "secret" moves are that allow the board to come out "from the outside". If anyone knows the moves please share with us!

This information comes from the site at this link, scroll down almost to the end:

The Seafarer 24

I just checked, a similar statement is made for the Seafarer 34.

"since the centerboard on the Seafarer 34 can be removed from outside the boat with no risk of a leak, maintenance is no problem."

The Seafarer 34


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## jamesnewsome (Jul 30, 2000)

Some Seafarer centerboards/swing keels can be removed from underneath the boat, but other cannot. One of our Seafarer 34 members on the Seafarer Yacht Group on Facebook just commented on this a couple weeks ago. Here's a link to their blog - Sailing Chance | Sailing through the Caribbean | Sailing Chance | Sailing through the Caribbean

We believe that there are more than one generation of the Seafarer 34 because several owners have noted the differences in their boats. Jason & Kelly will be very helpful. Just reach out to them through their blog or through the Facebook group. I tipped them off this morning about your post so they may have already tried to contact you.

I'll also be glad to send you any pdf file I have that lists the S34. Just let me know.

James


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## 71Seafer34 (Jun 19, 2013)

Hey gang. So I have visual access to the board all around and the edge and can see the pin from the front leading edge of the keel. The pin is not going anyway and I cannot see access at any point through the centerboard, no channel or slot or anything. This thing is so rotten and decomposed that the layers of lead and steel are all separating from another so I chiseled out the lead layers and am left with three layers of steel about 3/16" thick each. I have decided to remove a slot out of these three layers leading to the pin so that I can pull the board out with an upward pull. I alreadty cut off half the top of the truck that is in the bilge but still need to actually free the board to even move it. This is an extremely difficult little engineering problem and I have all the tools you could ask for here at my disposal. You will all gasp but I am actually using a plasma torch at the moment to gouge this channel out. Carbide grinder, hole saw, sawzall did not and will not work. This boat seems to be resisting at every turn, I am starting to wonder if not having named here yet is causing bad luck?! Standby, I'll get some pictures of this nightmare up soon. I appreciate all the help! Just putting in my time, cruising is the reward for battles like these.


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## Mechsmith (Jun 7, 2009)

There is a J shaped slot in the front of the Keel. There should be a plug or a strip screwed into the fiberglass to prevent the keel from moving forward. Remove it.


Then lift keel when up about 2 1/2" and slip it forward then the whole thing will come down. Careful mine (29' Seafarer KCB) weighed 650#. I did mine on a lift with ropes and the winches and the lift cable. A fork lift would have been handier.

The pin slides down the long leg of the "J" moves forward and slides up to the short leg of the "J". View from the port side. I would check it carefully. I have heard of three of them that broke off at the hook. Seafarer Research Center has a bit of a discussion a few pages back.


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## ginosmw19 (Aug 13, 2013)

skygazer said:


> In a moment of weakness last night I purchased a "sight unseen" Seafarer 24 swing keel on Ebay.
> 
> I've never seen one, and don't like swing keels. But it was only 50 miles away and cheap. Also, I've looked at a lot of boats recently, Ericsons and the one Seafarer (fixed keel) I saw really stood out.
> 
> ...


i sailed on a 24 swing keel years ago. (at present i have a seafarer 26 with fixed fin keel) should be a great boat for lakes and calm days on the bay. however your boat is probably to light for decent sailing in heavy weather. i sailed a 24 back from block island to atlantic city nj and hit 20-25 mph winds on the way and the boat got pushed around horribly.


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## 71Seafer34 (Jun 19, 2013)

I forget to follow up on this thread: basically my board turned out to be structurally pinned into the trunk and glassed over. After getting a visual of the pin from the underside I knew it had to come out which turned the entire saga into a three day job. Alas, someone had done it before, hogging out a 3"x8" hole through the hull to the pins location in the trunk. The good and bad news was that that area is just out of the lead ballast and is instead a mixture of sand and epoxy. The big surprise was that the guy who did it last filled his hole with what appears to be PL400 construction adhesive! Good thing I got into it, it remained wet after the boat being on the dry for over a year. No problem-I have come up with a removable pin idea that will make it much easier and safer down the road to get the board on and off should it be necessary. The void will be sleeved and covered with a plate. Thank you all for your advice and thoughts and let me know if there are any questions about the construction of these hulls, I have some insight and understanding now. And by the way, if you ever have to get into these hulls the only thing that will even dent the sand/epoxy matrix is industrial diamond water cooled tooling. These hulls can probably really take a hit if they have to, insane strength!


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

71Seafer34 said:


> ...Thank you all for your advice and thoughts and let me know if there are any questions about the construction of these hulls, I have some insight and understanding now. And by the way, if you ever have to get into these hulls the only thing that will even dent the sand/epoxy matrix is industrial diamond water cooled tooling. These hulls can probably really take a hit if they have to, insane strength!


For some reason I have not received an email when this thread was updated. *71Seafer34*, it sounds like a big project you tackled, it's great that you have access to the tools you used, and the skill to wield them. Have you taken any photos? They would be helpful for those of us trying to visualize the construction of the boat. Even if your project if finished, it would be helpful to post a photo of exactly where on the boat you had to cut etc.
Thanks for sharing your experience.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Mechsmith said:


> There is a J shaped slot in the front of the Keel. There should be a plug or a strip screwed into the fiberglass to prevent the keel from moving forward. Remove it.
> 
> Then lift keel when up about 2 1/2" and slip it forward then the whole thing will come down. Careful mine (29' Seafarer KCB) weighed 650#. I did mine on a lift with ropes and the winches and the lift cable. A fork lift would have been handier.
> 
> The pin slides down the long leg of the "J" moves forward and slides up to the short leg of the "J". View from the port side. I would check it carefully. I have heard of three of them that broke off at the hook. Seafarer Research Center has a bit of a discussion a few pages back.


*Mechsmith*, this is the information that I've searched for. I've not seen it anywhere else, you seem the be the sole source of the centerboard removal secret. If you ever feel like doing a diagram and posting it, that would be very helpful in visualizing the setup and the motion you describe. Or perhaps you could make some more word pictures for us, like is the "J" rightside up and backwards when viewed from the port side, and does the 2 1/2 inch lift of the board slide the pin down the long part of the "J"?

Is the centerboard in the up position or fully down when you lift and remove? I'm guessing the down (extended) position.

I just tried to look at my boat, but the way it sits on the trailer I can't get a decent look at it.

I hope I'm one of the lucky ones that have the removable setup, unlike poor 71Seafer34 who had such a mighty struggle with his.

Thank you for posting your seemingly unique and definitely valuable information.


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## Mechsmith (Jun 7, 2009)

If you have the same as mine the keel is all the ways up to prepare for removeing.

Visualize from the port side. The long end of the "J" comes out of the keel. The short end is about three inches (or a little more) towards the top of the keel from the bottom. The "J" is kind of flattened at the bottom.

Pick the keel up flat and straight, move it forward till the long end of the slot bumps against the pin. Then it will come down. There is (or should be) a strip of stainless to prevent the keel from moving forward till you want it to. Mine wasn't factory at this point but I can think of other ways to prevent the keel from moving forward unintentionally. Yours may have a different method.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Thank you Mechsmith, that is clearer to me.


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