# Awlgrip on the hull...good, bad???



## jrd22

The "touching up some scratches on the hull" little project has turned into "you know, you should really paint the whole thing". Pretty typical trip to the hard in my experience, that's why I put it off for as long as possible each time. The areas that have now been sprayed with the "original formula" green have made the hull look like a gecko with a serious skin condition, not pretty. I originally sprayed it with a two part auto paint and it has held up very well for 10 years, but there were several scrapes and scratches that needed attention(yes, I am responsible for a couple of them). My paint/fiberglas guy says Awlgrip is the best, but being the skeptic that I am I thought I would ask for opinions here. Have any of you had it on your hull for several years, and if so, what's your impression? We plan on staying with close to the same dark green color and we are in the Pacific NW so sun is not a major problem(or heat)(it rains here in the San Juans all the time...really) ). Thanks, John oh, and I am NOT doing the work this time, once was enough (can you say wet sand?)


----------



## Faster

We've had good results with Awlgrip on two boats. One, painted in '96 still looks good, though it is not immune to fender rub. (mind you we regularly had 20+ knots abeam at our slip)

The other, painted in 2000 still looks great - on this one we used the Forest Green - great colour.

Both were self applied with less than professional technique or equipment, so the finished result was also less than professional. Still, it was a vast improvement over what was.

I understand, though, that Interlux has made great strides in their 2 parts, being easier to touch up and repair than Awlgrip and perhaps easier for an amateur to apply. (not an issue for you as you are planning to have it done.)

We did it ourselves for purely financial reasons ($5000 approx for topsides and deck on a 40 footer incl haulout) but it was weeks and weeks of hard work.

You'll appreciate the results whichever way you go, esp if you use a pro.

Check the compatability of your existing finish with the products you plan to use - incl primers. Could be it all needs to come off!


----------



## sailingdog

Awlgrip or Imron are the two best finishes for boat topsides, deck and cabin top IMHO. I would stay away from dark colors, as they can be very uncomfortable to walk on and add a lot of heat to the interior of the boat. Of course, you're in the PNW, so a bit of heat in the boat might be appreciated...

The vast majority of the work is in the proper preparation of the surface. Without proper preparation, you're just throwing your money away.


----------



## camaraderie

There are several formulations of awlgrip for different applications and needs. I've had 2 boats done in Awlgrip and have been happy with the product but you have to maintain it as directed with the right cleaners and NO waxes if you want it to remain looking good for years. Here's detail on the 3 different types:
awlgrip.com - the professional topside paint system for yachts


----------



## TSOJOURNER

I have heard good things about the System 3 WR LPU Polyeurethane topcoat material for the topsides. its water clean-up, and doesn't have the fumes of Awlgrip. Its also half the price for materials. The preaparation is the same and just as important as with the other paints. I am planning to do the decks, cabin-top and cockpit with this pretty soon. Anyone have experience with it?


----------



## ChicagoNewport27

I recently painted my topsides with Interlux 2-part poly in a dark navy blue, and I was/am impressed with the results. My girlfriend and I did the roll-and-tip application and it was easy and straightforward. The key is to make sure the surface prep and primer coat are as flawless as possible. 90% of our time over the month of nights and weekends was spent on surface prep, and the actual painting process was rather anticlimactic and easy. After the initial heart-pounding moment when we put the first brush strokes of blue over the previously white hull, it went really quickly, and after a three-day weekend, we had put on three coats.

We used Interlux Perfection 2-Part Polyurethane in Mauritius Blue, with the recommended thinner and 2-part primer.

I'll let you know in a few years how well it wears over time, but so far, so good. Others have said it wears as well as Awlgrip, but we'll see.


----------



## JustinC25

I just washed and polished my Flag Blue Awlgrip hull this passed Sunday before finally being put into the water this season (had many projects to complete). The hull looks beautiful, but it does have its downsides, mostly heat absorption, showing scratches and abrasion from fenders. I touched up several scratches/gouges the previous weekend and the touch up Awlgrip color matched perfectly. I bought a small bottle of touch up paint from some distributor. Here are some photos.
Before:

After:

To prevent the fenders from rubbing against the paint, I hang them from the llifelines to rub the rubrail. My marina has pilings on my bulkhead slip, so I then use a long 2x4 fender board to ride the pilings. This has worked well to prevent damage to my paint, but the previous owner let his fenders rub the hull and it is not as glossy in that area.
This past weekend I used the AwlWash cleaner to wash my topsides and then used the AwlCare polymer sealant to give it a nice shine and remove some marks. It did a very nice job, here are the results:




I bought my C-25 from a museum as a donation so I don't know the history of my boat and how long ago the previous owner had the hull painted, but she looks great for a 25 year old boat.


----------



## 1970Columbia34

Awlgrip is great granted we have only been in the water for 3 months now but looks great and not that hard to appy. I sprayed ours in Aristo Blue. I suggest awlgrip all the way.


----------



## Maine Sail

*Rather than look at a brand..*

I would consider the two types of LPU paints very carefully before you buy into a brand. I personally don't like AwlGrip because it is very, very hard to touch up later and nearly impossible to buff because of it's cure characteristics.

I much prefer the acrylic LPU's such as Awlcraft 2000 or Imron over the polyester LPU's like AwlGrip.

Below is a picture of a fire engine red Imron painted boat I buffed & waxed this spring. The original paint job was done in 1989! With acrylic LPU paints the pigment and shine is the full thickness of the paint! With a polyester LPU it cures with a hard protective "shell" coat that is very, very thin. If you buff through this outer skin on Awlgrip you'll be a slave to it for life!

















I've owned two boats with AwlGrip and I most likely won't use it again. My current boat was just painted with AwlCraft 2000 which is their version of Imron. It can be polished and not harm the surface and it can actually last longer than a polyester LPU because of the repair-ability and buff-ability you gain over AwlGrip.

Here's a picture of my current boat with her new AwlCraft 2000 paint job! If you want to go with one of the Akzo Noble (parent company of AwlGrip) products I'd suggest going with Awlcraft 2000 over AwlGrip. Yards like AwlGrip because they know how hard it is to repair and that you'll be back for fresh paint after about 5-8 years.


----------



## Maine Sail

*More on LPU's*

Both Imron and Awlgrip can be touched up and repaired by an experienced professional. The key word there is experienced!

There are, however, significant differences between these two linear polyurethane (LPU) paints. Both Imron and Awlgrip happen to be the best-known examples of the two main classes of LPU coatings but they are not he only ones. There are two basic types of LPU's acrylic polyurethanes (Imron, Awlcraft 2000, Interspray 800, PPG Concept, Sikkens Yachtcryl) and the polyester polyurethanes (Awlgrip, Interspray 900, Sterling, etc.) Both acrylic and polyester LPU coatings produce a beautiful wet-look shine that, with proper care, will last a full five or six years before any noticeable difference appears. The main difference is the polyester LPU yields a harder, more weather- and UV-resistant finish so your boat stays glossy longer, with less work, with Awlgrip than with Imron. This is the claim any way!

Hatteras Yachts used Imron for years and years with very good results, this is why I say, "this is the claim".. If I'm not mistaken they have now switched to using Alwcraft 2000 which is very similar to Imron just made by Akzo and not Dupont..

The problem with the polyester LPU's, like Awlgrip and Sterling, is that when they cure a thin hard surface is formed like a built in clear coat. This becomes a problem when and if you try to buff Awlgrip or a polyester LPU. Most people don't realize it but are actually only buffing this very thin surface layer made up of mostly the clear solids. Picture oil and water. As you shake the bottle they almost form together but if you let it sit the oil rises to the surface. This, in a sense, is what Alwgrip cures like with the clear solids rising to the surface to protect the pigment layer. It's really more complicated than that but it's about as easy as I can explain it. In most instances, when buffing Awlgrip, you will burn through this thin outer layer quite quickly using compounds & polishes. Once you've done that you'll be a slave to the Awlgrip until it's worn away or re-painted.

We've all seen Awlgrip that's been chaffed by a fender or a winter cover. This chafing has basically worn through the "clear solids" and has exposed the base layer of the paint leaving it unprotected from the sun.

Many smaller boat shops recommend and use the acrylic LPU's because they are a lot easier to work with. An acrylic LPU, like Imron or Alwcraft 2000, dries faster, and because it's a solid paint, it's easier to perform the buffing required to force a smooth shine onto a mediocre spray job full of dust and dull areas. We did an after the fact buff job on Tim's Imron (the red boat above) and I can tell you this paint is plenty hard! Finesse It II and Chroma 1500 barely touched it until after we had buffed it with Superduty Rubbing Compound and a foam "polishing grade pad".

Awlgrip is quite unforgiving and it's a lot harder to get good results in marginal painting conditions with but it purportedly lasts longer. Both types, acrylic and polyester LPU's, can be repaired by spraying a patch or brush touch-up and then wet sanding and buffing to blend it with the surrounding finish. Special blending additives help as well as experience.

One of the biggest problems in repair work is color matching and that's where Awlgrip shines. Alwgrip reportedly, I say reportedly because of the red boat above, has better fade resistance to the acrylic LPU's and an Awlgrip hull color stays stable and fade-free longer than an acrylic. How much longer I don't know but these are the claims.. The problem then becomes how good is your repair guy at feathering an Awlgrip job vs. the much easier feathering of a acrylic LPU like Imron. I'll take an acrylic LPU over a polyester LPU for just the ease of repair any day.

Tim's boat had some definite ghosting where the old name was but hell it's fire engine red, the color that fades easiest, and even Awlgrip would have ghosting at that age.

The take away here is to know that Awlgrip should not be buffed unless it's a last resort and Imron or Awlcraft 2000 can be polished but don't over do it because you only have 2.5 - 3 mils to play with...


----------



## stiffwind

I was interested in your experience with the awlgrip v. awlcraft product, but your boat looks great...who is the manuf and designer of your boat?


----------



## Maine Sail

*My boat is a*

I obviously like acrylic LPU's (Awlcraft 2000 / Imron) much better than polyester LPU's like Awlgrip. The cost to paint with Awlcraft was the same as AwlGrip..

My boat is a Canadian Sailcraft 36T designed by Raymond Wall of Camper Nicholson. Threre are not very many in the US but you can find them. As far as I know I have the only one in Maine. They are very, very well built boats and are true blue water bomb proof.

Unfortunately they went out of business trying to compete with the likes of Tartan & Sabre. They could not do it because they built to much boat for the money. Even the stringers are solid fiberglass, hand laminated U shaped beams, with no wood that are 1.5 inches thick. She also has encapsulated foam stringers running the full length of the hulls topsides (not the deck) sides evenly spaced from the toe rail all the way down to the stingers. In nut shell CS Yachts were and are very well built but can be found for close to the price of a similar Beneteau or Catalina..

The only drawback is that she is very heavy for a 36 footer weighing in at just over 17k loaded but she sails surprisingly well and has a relatively low PHRF rating..

Here's some more pictures of her: Canadian Sailcraft 36T - (CS-36T) - Gallery Photo Gallery by Maine Sailing at pbase.com


----------



## camaraderie

Good post on the awlcraft/awlgrip differences Halekai. You did a beautiful job and if I ever paint again I'm gonna steal that color scheme!


----------



## jrd22

You know, this is what I love about Sailnet, I can ask a question and gain the equivalent of years of trial and error and expense on my own. Thank you all for your advice, experience, suggestions and the great pictures! I think from everything that was posted I am going to go with the Awlcraft because of the repairability. I'll try to post some pics (if I can figure out how to get them on here) when it's finished. Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate the time you took to help me. I feel much more comfortable proceeding now with this information. John


----------



## stiffwind

Halekai,
thanks for your response, the boat sounds great. I sailed around the blue hill penisula area last summer in an 18ft Herreshoff cat boat and now I'm shopping for a blue water/coastal cruiser. I'm looking at older boats and specifically the cheoy lees as I am not ready to buy a new boat as yet.


----------



## Cruisingdad

Halekai,

Very, very good writeup. I looked at your boat. SHe has been very maticulously cared for and updated.

Great job.

- CD


----------



## jrd22

Hi, I got the boat back in the water last week and wanted to share a couple of pictures. It turned out beautifully, thanks for all the information and opionions you gave me, it really helped. We went with the Awlcraft and it looks great! These aren't the best pictures to show it off, but take it from me, the boat has never looked better. Still putting things back together(radar is still on the deck), tuned the rigging today, got the registration stickers on, etc, etc. It's almost ready to go, of course it's raining now, nice to have the pilothouse. Thanks again, John


----------



## US25

Beautiful!


----------



## camaraderie

Lookin' really pretty John!


----------



## bestfriend

Nice John! what make and length is she?


----------



## sailingdog

Looking good...what'd you use for the non-skid??


----------



## Faster

Looks great! Good colour too! We don't see too many Northsea 34s around, and to see one in such nice condition is a real treat!


----------



## bestfriend

Thanks Faster.


----------



## jrd22

Bestfriend- It's a 1978 Northsea 34. Built in BC by Beaverglas Hulls from an English design- I think a Colvic. It sails very well, not a racer, but surpisingly fast. My brother and I have owned her since 91', she was a total disaster when we got her, it took years and a lot of dough to get her in shape. Very comfortable boat for the climate here in the NW.


----------



## jrd22

SD, the non skid is a product we got from Fisheries Supply in Seattle, made of quartz crystals. Originally it was way too aggressive, so this time we had a heavy coat of paint rolled on and it is much friendlier to knees and knuckles.


----------



## jrd22

Thanks Faster! There aren't too many around, I think I have seen four, not sure how many were made. Ironically, when we had it hauled out to do the paint in Anacortes there was another one there that I had never seen.


----------



## US25

Good color choice. This my paint job from last fall. Obviously not Awlgrip. But I suppose it shows you get what you pay for. I wish I'd gone your route. Are your pictures taken in the San Juan's? What island? I used to keep my boat at Friday Harbor.


----------



## jrd22

US25- We keep it at Blakely Island in the little marina there. We have a cabin that we spend most weekends at.


----------



## US25

oh cool, I have fond memories of Blakely, my favorite stop as a kid, stocking up on candy at the little store. lol, goodtimes.


----------



## SEMIJim

camaraderie said:


> There are several formulations of awlgrip for different applications and needs. I've had 2 boats done in Awlgrip and have been happy with the product but you have to maintain it as directed with the right cleaners and NO waxes if you want it to remain looking good for years. Here's detail on the 3 different types:
> awlgrip.com - the professional topside paint system for yachts


No waxes at all, of any kind? Many automotive waxes are so-called "cleaner wax," as they contain a mild abrasive. What about a straight wax that didn't require intensive buffing? How about one of the new high-tech "waxes," such as NuFinish (which contains absolutely no wax)?

Jim


----------



## camaraderie

NO WAX...only polymer polishes like Finesseit or awlcare. No electric buffing. Not sure about nu- finish but why not go with what the mfr. recommends?


----------



## SEMIJim

camaraderie said:


> NO WAX


OK! OK! 



camaraderie said:


> ...only polymer polishes like Finesseit or awlcare. No electric buffing. Not sure about nu- finish but why not go with what the mfr. recommends?


Very well. Seems odd, tho, a painted finish you can't wax.

Jim


----------



## TSOJOURNER

Skip did everything on MISTRESS is Fleet White Awlgrip inside and out. She looks great and he likes the idea of only having to carry one color on board with a small amount of another for any touch ups that may someday be needed for the Dynel deck. For her hull, he sprayed the first two coats on and the last two was brushed. 
Kathleen
aboard
Schooner MISTRESS


----------



## Faster

SchoonerMISTRESS said:


> Skip did everything on MISTRESS is Fleet White Awlgrip inside and out. .... For her hull, he sprayed the first two coats on and the last two was brushed.
> Kathleen
> aboard
> Schooner MISTRESS


Curious, Kathleen, why brush after spraying??


----------



## TSOJOURNER

It was not Skip perfect as we (his friends) like to say. He wanted to build a tent around her to spray her one more time just before launch, but we ran out of time, therefore, wanting it to be even better than she was, he did the last two with a brush. 
We kid him about such things, but really there is no use in it. I personally, along with many others felt she looked just fine the way she was. I could hardly take a picture with the mirror image her hull produced. If there was some other reason I do not remember what it was. 
Skip and overkill, can sometimes be synonymous. But you never heard that from me.  
Kathleen
aboard
Schooner MISTRESS


----------



## sailingdog

SEMIJim said:


> OK! OK!
> 
> Very well. Seems odd, tho, a painted finish you can't wax.
> 
> Jim


Imron can be buffed and waxed... Awlgrip can't. I believe it depends on what kind of LPU paint it is. Imron is an Acrylic-based LPU, and is easier to maintain than Awlgrip IMHO.


----------



## ChicagoNewport27

ChicagoNewport27 said:


> I recently painted my topsides with Interlux 2-part poly in a dark navy blue, and I was/am impressed with the results. My girlfriend and I did the roll-and-tip application and it was easy and straightforward. The key is to make sure the surface prep and primer coat are as flawless as possible. 90% of our time over the month of nights and weekends was spent on surface prep, and the actual painting process was rather anticlimactic and easy. After the initial heart-pounding moment when we put the first brush strokes of blue over the previously white hull, it went really quickly, and after a three-day weekend, we had put on three coats.
> 
> We used Interlux Perfection 2-Part Polyurethane in Mauritius Blue, with the recommended thinner and 2-part primer.
> 
> I'll let you know in a few years how well it wears over time, but so far, so good. Others have said it wears as well as Awlgrip, but we'll see.


For the price, I'm still pleased with the way my roll-and-tip Interlux paint job turned out. Halfway through the sailing season, and still no scratches.


----------



## TSOJOURNER

With reference to Awlgrip not being able to be waxed, you can and may want to check out Awlgrip's line of products. They sell Awlgrip wax. 

I got some clarification on the Awlgrip job Skip did on MISTRESS. He was not happy with the first spray, wanted to hire someone to do it, ran out of time, and did the brush.

Kathleen
aboard
Schooner MISTRESS


----------



## SanderO

Painted hull with Awlgrip or Imron look awesome at first but don't seem to hold up. My gel coat is 20 yrs old and with an annual Spring light compound and wax looks as good as new. My hull is off white and the odd minor scratch, does not show and can often be rubbed away.

But metal or wood hulls must be painted and many sailors want colored hulls done on white GRP. It's expensive and it will probably have to be redone every few years. ICK.

jef
sv shiva


----------



## Lenire

*Experience counts*

I'm not sure what I can add here, except to say I've painted one or two boats. In fact in the last forty odd years I've been in this business I"m sure I have painted a few hundred.
Awlgrip/Imron/Interlux, all good products, but, Awlgrip is without doubt the best. Unfortunately the price you pay for the best is that it has a very narrow application envelope. If you are doing it yourself try the Imron, but if you have a professional doing it, dont hesitate, choose Awlgrip, its harder, lasts longer and even after many years will buff out wonderfully. Of course none are hard enough to withstand the dock rash and scraps (but you know how to avoid that).
Every two part marine topside paint on the market can be buffed, waxed, and repaired - if you know what you are doing.

Len


----------



## Lenire

*Post script*

oops, forgot to add. Dont even consider any of them without first applying a good heavy epoxy primer coat. This will protect your (very expensive) top coat against any imcompatability problems you may otherwise experience.

Len


----------



## Talisman66

*How to fix cracks in Awlgrip finish*

They are hard to see clearly in pics but I can catch the edges with my fingernails. The crack lines run into and under the bottom paint. Paint is biting the surface strong enough not to chip off. The crack lines are on port and starboard mid ship only. However these cracks bother me, I don't know if the gelcoat is the root cause, the expoxy primer coat, the Awlgrip coat (applied 1994) or movement in the fiberglass during harsh winter storage in Wisconsin. The bottom paint will be scrapped off soon. The boat is a 79 Morgan Starratt-Jenks. Any ideas to spot repair or is it time to re-do the entire paint job? Kinda like the first thread stated.


----------



## camaraderie

Port and Starboard midships? Near any bulkheads or chain plates perhaps? Looks a lot more serious than awl grip cracking. I would suggest you have your yard grind these and see how deep they run AND what is causing them. As long as the layup is not compromised, repairs should be fairly easy but the cracks will return unless the underlying cause is discovered...possibilities:
-Over tensioned shrouds.
-Light layup and hard spots from bulkheds. 
-Heat crazing from dark hull through gelcoat and expanded by moisture ingress.
-stress from jackstands on unsupported hull sections.


----------



## TSOJOURNER

*Awlgrip endorsement*

I had our sailboat's haul refinished three years ago, the Awlgrip finish (Aristo Blue) still looks great. I frequently get comments from others about how good the boat looks and they always want to know what paint we used. Awlgrip maintenance is another big plus; just wash and polish with Awlgrip's products and relaunch, no more cleaning, compounding, and waxing with a heavy buffer.


----------



## sailingdog

I'd have to agree that the photo looks a bit more serious than just Awlgrip cracking. Cam's got the right idea about grinding out the affected areas to see if you can diagnose and repair the cause.



Talisman66 said:


> They are hard to see clearly in pics but I can catch the edges with my fingernails. The crack lines run into and under the bottom paint. Paint is biting the surface strong enough not to chip off. The crack lines are on port and starboard mid ship only. However these cracks bother me, I don't know if the gelcoat is the root cause, the expoxy primer coat, the Awlgrip coat (applied 1994) or movement in the fiberglass during harsh winter storage in Wisconsin. The bottom paint will be scrapped off soon. The boat is a 79 Morgan Starratt-Jenks. Any ideas to spot repair or is it time to re-do the entire paint job? Kinda like the first thread stated.


----------



## Zogumwesterly

My hull awlgrip is still perfect after 5 years, I sprayed it with two coats of kelly green, and then two coats of clear. We live in south florida and we don't use wax, polymers, or anything else. we just hose it off. I do plan on repainting, because I'm stupid and painted my boat a dark color in a subtropic climate. Can you say BROILER?


----------



## kachinaowl

jrd 22, what did you use to get that beautiful color and shine on your teak accents?

We just bought and hauled our 1962 Rawson 30 home to Arizona where we will be spending the next year or so refitting her top to bottom. It is a daunting project at this point, but we know to only do one thing at a time and not just rip into her. She's a good solid vessel but she has been sadly neglected for the past 15 years. All this advice is a treasure trove.


----------



## paich

*topsides finishes*

Hi Halekai and thanks very much for taking the time now over a year ago to set out these important truths about these finishes: I would say you answered my question about a more repairable high gloss finish than Awlgrip before I asked. And I must also say I am inclined to go with your recommendation for the acrylic over the polyester, given the what my boat goes through. Now of course I have another question. The Bristol 40 I have has a nice looking finish, (now in need of renewal) and I think the PO said it was something 800, maybe Interspray: but I think there is also some kind of clear coat over it. So here is my question: Is there any point in doing the acrylic LPU and clear coating it to give it the additional toughness and fade resistance that the polyester LPUs seem to have due to their curing characteristics? Does a clear coat then make repairing the LPU more difficult? Wouldn't a clear coat last longer than a wax after a good buffing job? Is it difficult or expensive to apply a clear coat? What are the best? Seems like a hell of a thank you for your contribution to ask these other questions; but there they are. And I will be even more grateful if you or another wishes to answer. Thanks in advance. Paich


----------



## Maine Sail

paich said:


> Hi Halekai and thanks very much for taking the time now over a year ago to set out these important truths about these finishes: I would say you answered my question about a more repairable high gloss finish than Awlgrip before I asked. And I must also say I am inclined to go with your recommendation for the acrylic over the polyester, given the what my boat goes through. Now of course I have another question. The Bristol 40 I have has a nice looking finish, (now in need of renewal) and I think the PO said it was something 800, maybe Interspray: but I think there is also some kind of clear coat over it. So here is my question: Is there any point in doing the acrylic LPU and clear coating it to give it the additional toughness and fade resistance that the polyester LPUs seem to have due to their curing characteristics? Does a clear coat then make repairing the LPU more difficult? Wouldn't a clear coat last longer than a wax after a good buffing job? Is it difficult or expensive to apply a clear coat? What are the best? Seems like a hell of a thank you for your contribution to ask these other questions; but there they are. And I will be even more grateful if you or another wishes to answer. Thanks in advance. Paich


Interspray 800 is a clearcoat:

Interspray 800 is a two-part acrylic polyurethane clear topcoat finish providing high gloss with excellent durability. It's mainly used as a clearcoat/glazecoat to enhance colored surfaces.

Interspray 800 is:
A) A "repairable" finish coating
B) Buffable just don't buff through it..!

Of course if you do re-paint and go with Awlcraft 2000, Imron or Awlgrip there is no need for a clear coat and this should save some money.

Here's my Awlcraft 2000 after applying a fresh coat of hand rubbed Awlcare.










As you can see there really is no need for a clear coat with Awlcraft 2000.. And yes adding a clear top coat will make repair of Awlcraft 2000 or Awlgrip more difficult..

While this photo was not taken on a sunny day look at the angle it's taken at. I am almost staring directly into the paint not at an angle which shows a shine easier to a camera.









* Acrylic LPU's:* The big name acrylic polyurethanes are Imron, Awlcraft 2000, Interspray 800(clear coat), PPG Concept & Sikkens Yachtcryl.

* Polyester LPU's:* The big name polyester polyurethanes are: Awlgrip, Interspray 900, Alexseal & Sterling.

I think AlexSeal says it best when talking about buffing or repairing a polyester LPU:

_"Many surfaces on a boat will require minor detailing over time. This might include removing mild over spray and tape lines from repainted panels *or polishing an aged surface to temporarily restore the luster.* *When such areas need detailing as part of the initial application of the coating or periodically over time to repair fine scratches,* *use a protective wax or polymer sealer to help maintain the gloss in detailed areas.* Detailing must be done by an experienced applicator either by hand, or slow speed polishing machine, using an applicator pad recommended by the product's manufacturer."_

In other words once you "burn through" the hard shell of a polyester LPU you're a slave to it!!


----------



## paich

Thanks again very much and congratulations on your finish on your boat: you can nearly read the bulletin board across the street in the reflection! Looks just great. Hope mine can come near it. Paich


----------

