# New C&C 30 Owner



## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

*New C&C 30 mki Owner*

Hi Everyone,

I wanted to introduce myself as I've been reading posts on this board for over a year now and I've finally purchased my own sailboat.

After doing a sailing time-share last summer on a Hunter 33 to figure out what we wanted in a boat, my wife finally gave me the green light to buy this beauty (well... she's beautiful to me).

She's currently named Eos (Greek for "Dawn") and she's a 1976 C&C 30.

This past weekend a friend and I sailed her 65 miles overnight from her old home in Northport, NY (on the North Shore of Long Island) through Hell Gate (we had to pass through after dark because of the tide and hit 10.5 kts over ground with a following current. That was fun...) and past NYC to her new winter home on Jamaica Bay in Brooklyn, NY.

She performed exceedingly well on the journey. Her freshwater-cooled 15 horse Atomic 4 purrs and moves her along easily at 5.5 - 6kts and to my absolute shock used only .7 gallons of fuel per hour on the trip - I'm sure that following current helped.

I finally got a feel for how she sails when we pulled out the sails in 20kts and 5 footers off Sandy Hook... She was still fast when the wind died down and she Was very stable in those 5-footers. Her sails are in great shape and she feels much more stable than the much newer Hunter 33 I was on all summer.

We just hauled her out for dry land storage yesterday.

My winter plans:

While her bones seem solid, her electrical wiring is a disaster and a half - and in my opinion she needs to be re-wired. I've already read Don Casey's Sailboat Electrics Simplified and have been checking out the $tingy Sailor's blog as well for a little inspiration. I'm a little intimidated by the electrics on the motor as some of them seem to be aftermarket - I may have an electric fuel pump and there is some sort of electric control unit for the motor's freshwater cooling system (an Indigo Electronics AT-4) which I need to understand better before I start removing the old wiring. I don't want to take a good-running motor and render it less reliable because I don't fully understand its modifications.

The salon interior was renovated by a previous owner as you can see in the photos. I quite like the layout with the large galley area, and I know it's the main reason I was able to pick her up for a very low price from a guy who was already purchasing a larger boat. I intend to install C-FLOR or the like to pretty-up the nasty cabin sole after I'm finished wiring.

Her aft starboard portlight was leaking a bit and I just removed and resealed that this morning.

Excited to be a part of the sailnet community. Any advice/thoughts are appreciated and I will keep posting as I continue to work on her.


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## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Some more photos... By the way.. anyone know how to have the photos not come through sideways? The first shot is of us right before passing under the Brooklyn bridge.


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## boatpoker (Jul 21, 2008)

Silicone wont last long and getting it off to use the proper material is extremely difficult as the silicone has now contaminated the surface and nothing else will stick.


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## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Hi Boatpoker, 

If that's true, that's certainly unfortunate as I just did one of the portlights this morning. In that case, Boat US should also remove this article by Don Casey where he describes it as such "If you accept silicone's adhesive abilities as temporary, you will find it is the best product for a number of sealing requirements. It is the only one of the marine sealant trio than can be safely used to bed plastic. It is an excellent insulator between dissimilar metals--use it when mounting stainless hardware to an aluminum spar. It is the perfect gasket material between components that must be periodically dismantled--beneath hatch slides, for example.

Silicone retains its resilience for decades and is unaffected by most chemicals, but it should not be used below the waterline."

Have you had this problem with silicone before? If this is true I'd really like to know so I can remove it as soon as possible.


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## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

WOW. The Boat US article "Boat Sealants" also by Don Casey (just Google it) paints a different picture about silicone... I'll be visiting WestMarine after work and re-bedding that window tonight in a proper sealant.

*I have deleted my previous post in which I described fixing a leaking portlight with silicone. I have deleted it, because it's a bad idea and I do not want anyone else to do it.*

Thanks boatpoker.:eek


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## boatpoker (Jul 21, 2008)

I've done over 3000 surveys and have seen a lot of failed silicone. Mr. Casy qualifies his recommendation with the phrase "if you accept silicones adhesive qualities as temporary". Is that what you wanted a temporary fix ?
don't see it recommended for your application and if it was I'd still disagree. It's too late to take it off without a great deal of work and chemicals, the surface is now contaminated.


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## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Would you reccomend leaving it as is for the time being?


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## boatpoker (Jul 21, 2008)

May as well leave it now til' it fails .... the amount of work will be the same later as now.


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## amwbox (Aug 22, 2015)

Grats. C&C made nice boats.


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## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

OK.. thanks.


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## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Is there a product you'd recommend to re-bed and re-seal the other portlights?


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## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

For anyone who's interested, I'll be using Boatlife LifeSeal to reseal the portlights.


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## jsaronson (Dec 13, 2011)

Hope u join cncphotoalbum.com for all things C&C. 

Congrats!


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## Crosby-dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Thanks! Definitely going to.


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