# Winter under a tarp



## fmueller (Mar 14, 2012)

Hey All,

I'm looking for opinions about wintering under a tarp rather than shrinkwrap. We are in Maine and it seems like atleast 90% of the sailboats I see are shrinkwrapped in the winter (and that is what we did last winter too).

But why is that? It seems like a lot of work and then an awful lot of waste to throw the plastic away each spring. It seems to me that a good big tarp would be cheaper and re-usable. so why not?

If I build a decent frame for the tarp and secure it well, what is the downside? Is it less weather proof? more prone to blowing away?

We'll be on the hard (it is Maine, after all) and I'll probably keep the boat in the yard so I'll be able to check on it every day or so.

Thanks for your thoughts.

~Fortunat
1969 30 ft Dufour Arpege


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## AmorylTheWanderer (Aug 25, 2012)

heya! I'm brand new here so I've no actual or practical advice on shrinkwrap vs tarp, BUT, I did come across this other topic about just such a question. hopefully something in there gives you the answers you desire.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/38232-shrink-wrap-vs-tarp.html


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## lapworth (Dec 19, 2008)

If you can check on it each day use the tarp. I believe the shrink wrap is so you can put it out of sight and out of mind but what would I know. I leave my boat in the water year round without a tarp even.


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

Had our boat shrink wrapped one winter. I wasn't all that happy about the waste of materials and I found that the shrink wrap held as much water inside the wrap as it kept on the outside. If the job of shrink wrapping is not done properly with adequate ventilation then your boat can become a mold palace.
I've used tarps ever since. Cheaper, reusable and much better ventilation. Gotta' check on it though.


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## Ulladh (Jul 12, 2007)

I tarp over the boom only, to cover cockpit and companionway hatch, to top of stanchions. On hard or in water.


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## nauticalrich (Aug 31, 2001)

I don't tie my tarps to the stantions. I've seen a couple boats with bent stantions due to the weight of a tarp when water or snow puddles in it.

I use tarps and always check them.


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## Ulladh (Jul 12, 2007)

It is a 20ft boat, not a lot of tarp to hold snow, if snow load is a concern tie to base of stanchions. The intent is to minimize snow in cockpit that may melt and re-freeze to block scuppers.


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## S/V Dutch Treat (Dec 28, 2011)

I used a tarp last winter and we had a few big wind storms. The tarp got shredded whilst the shrink wrapped boat near it (also more protected spot though) was fine.

I will still use a tarp again this year, but maybe a better one and try to tie it down tighter.


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## CatMan22 (Apr 16, 2012)

I built a frame much the same as trusses on a house that I covered with 5/8" OSB then placed a tarpaulin over everything and secured it. Not only did it keep everything dry but the height of the peak allowed me access to to cockpit and cabin when I needed. One of my neighbors called it 'The Ark ' when I was building it. Plan on doing the same this winter.


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## asdf38 (Jul 7, 2010)

lapworth said:


> If you can check on it each day use the tarp. I believe the shrink wrap is so you can put it out of sight and out of mind but what would I know. I leave my boat in the water year round without a tarp even.


It all depends on how well you do the tarp. I've done tarps two years and it's fine and a lot cheaper. I'll say I liked it last winter when I had the mast down. Then I had one 30' (32 or 24 would have been better for my 26) over a high wood frame. It was perfectly dry although I had a problem with a large storm disrupting the frame.

With the mast up the year before that I had 3 tarps. That was more difficult and less sealed off.

Use a combination of tying the tarp down and weights. I mostly used milk cartons and coke bottles although I definitely have a problem with them puncturing and leaking. Personally I like the idea of the weights because it seems a little like a release valve. If wind gets under the tarp they can lift up and spill it out.

The trick for anchoring lines to the tarp is to wrap the tarp around a golf ball and string a slipped knot around that. It's far more secure than the grommets and you can add them anywhere. Never tape the tarp with any load and expect it to hold. I watched the boat next to me try that and it was shredded shortly ("Oh we live nearby and will check it all the time" - didn't happen).


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

We've used heavy canvas tarps for the past 15 years, trying a variety of different support systems on our J/36. The most durable setup, we find, is galvanized electrical conduit bent into frames. We made short sets of bent legs all the same, and then fitted the upper arches. They are joined by the standard conduit joints, so the pieces all fit into the trunk of my car. We connect the pieces on the ground, so that each frame is straight. We then strap the leg sections to stanchions with nylon ties. 1x4 wood stringers are then taped fore & aft to hold everything upright & parallel. They're longer, so they go on the roof rack of the car, unless I leave the hatchback open. The tarps (three) go over the frame. One covers the bow forward of the mast, one aft of the mast, and one closes off the stern. We've had to relpace one tarp so far. Though the initial cost is a bit more than a shrink-wrap job, we laugh each year when we save$500 by using the same tarps as last year. We experimented with an all-wood frame and also with PCV pipe, but the conduit holds up better, is easier to assemble, dismantle, transport and store.
Two years ago we had about five feet of snow, all told, and it held up. We've also had major windstorms. Periodic checks are a good idea, but a boat needs patting from time to time anyway. Use heavy, waterproof canvas --NOT the blue poly junk that disintegrates in the sun.


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## Mobnets (Apr 24, 2011)

I've tarped for several years now and am very satisfied. Tarped in October . . . Didn't see the boat again till June. Looked just like when I left it.

The secret:
1) Use the heavier (more expensive) silver tarps rather than the blue ones.
2) I use my bimini frame, boom, and whisker pole (from forward part of mast to bow) as main supports.
3) I make spiderweb of cheap rope from these structures directly to my (slotted) toerail (not over the stanchions) to support the tarp.
4) I attach the long edge of the tarps to the toerail with cable ties and go up and over the center using tarps that go just past the center peak (boom or whisker pole) and then bungee that edge to the toerail on the other side. I repeat the process with another overlapping tarp from the other side cable tied to the toerail and tenting over the middle then bungied to the opposite toerail.
5) Use the bimini frame to continue from what is essentially a boom tent to a cockpit enclosure with a long tarp centered lengthwise.
6) Throw another spiderweb of cheap rope and bungees over the top to keep the tarp from blowing (very important)

90%+ of my materials are reusable for at least several seasons

Holds up to snowloads and winter winds on the waterfront in Duluth/Superior harbor basin.

Good protection but isn't sealed so tight the boat can't breathe. No odors, no mold.

Bungees give the whole setup some needed "give".

I can access almost all parts of my deck and all of my cockpit if I want or need to. I can even open all my hatches for ventilation if working on the boat in the spring.

Actually looks halfway decent when finished. 

Takes a long afternoon to rig and a short afternoon to undo. Will never do shrinkwrap. Might go for a custom canvas cover someday. 

Mobnets 
1973 Paceship Chance 32/28 "Westwind"


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## Mjfossler (Jun 2, 2012)

I use two tarps. One over the boom with gallon jugs hanging from the tarp grommets to keep it on. The other goes from the mast to the bow over a simple frame I made of PVC pipe. Again, held on by gallon water jugs hanging from the tarp grommets. I check the boat once a month or after it snows. So far, no problems, and it is dirt cheap.


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## vtsailguy (Aug 4, 2010)

I am in Vermont, we get 10' of snow a year. Most people have tarps.

The basic difference is that that shrinkwrap is better. Its so slippery that the snow slides off. Tarps need a much stepper pitch.

Seems round here, all the boats 32' + have shrinkwrap, those smaller have tarps. There might be a moolah connection 

Having said all that, tarps are fine IF you frame it well. Its very easy to have the tarp "puddle", end up with a 400 lb block of ice that buggers your deck hardware.

Make a ridge with timber (~ 6' high for snow pitch), then make a frame from 1" black water pipe to make a series of "ribs" down the boat. Water/milk jugs are best, and the golfball trick (I use tennis balls).


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## vtsailguy (Aug 4, 2010)

boat cover, winterizing, tarp, blue cover

The bugger is the shrouds. I hate those things.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

Been there done that mostly with tarps and no issues BUT on a larger Sailboat it becomes very hard to keep a tarp from damaging the topside finish in a windy area










My J24 pretty easy










My Cal 29 not so much










The white shrinkwarp allows huge amounts of light to work on the boat VS the tarp which turns it into a black hole as there objective is to BLOCK light










And there was no frreaking way after all that work i was gonna mar the topsides


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## Downbucket (Aug 30, 2012)

Hi:

I too live in Southern Maine and have never shrinkwrapped. Waste of money! Tarp has always worked well and lasts about three years before it needs to be replaced. I then cut it up and use it for ground cover when bottom painting or to wrap the mast. Buy a heavy duty one. Hamilton sells them. The frame I built is similar to one I read about in Good Old Boat magazine about 5 years ago. I like it because when finished, it forms the shape of the boat so the tarp covers it exceptionally well. If I can find the issue, I'll let you know.

Good luck!

Will

P.S. Where do you keep your boat when in the water? I keep mine in Falmouth Harbor.


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## caberg (Jul 26, 2012)

I hate that I am reading this thread out of recognition that all too soon I will have to employ some of these wonderful tarping suggestions.


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## SchockT (May 21, 2012)

The thing that makes me cringe every year when I see all the shrink wrapped boats is knowing that in the spring all that plastic is going to be heaved into the dumpster! It just seems to be a colossal waste, and flies in the face of the relatively low environmental impact that makes sailboats great. Kudos to those of you who go for the re-usable option!


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

We recycle the shrinkwarp here ? 

Its NOT like my tarps could be recycled


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## CorvetteGuy (Jun 4, 2011)

I've used tarps for years with no mat up on the hard, I use 2*6 pressure treaded wood and wrap the sides around the tarp making a sadwich, this rests on the deck on either side of the cabin then lash it down from port toerail to the starbort one the tarp does not get shreaded and it holds the contour of the topside. Works quite well


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

The worst thing about shrink wrap is poor ventilation. Even open toe rails and vents don't seem to change the fact that it gets pretty warm and moist under the things. Canvas is the best way to go.

Our Fairclough custom cover pays for itself this year and is still in great shape. I just don't get shrink wrap at all.


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## DrB (Mar 29, 2007)

*Never shrink wrapped*

Tarped for the first 3 years of ownership. As others have said, the key is a good solid frame network and good tarps. Leasons learned:
High ridge line/pole to allow snow shed
Sufficient number of cross members to support the tarp so it does not sag and hold snow
Heavy duty tarps
Getting shrouds incorporated is key
Many smaller tarps are better than fewer larger tarps.

After three years of the tarp, and trying to get it installed in mid November, my wife demanded a better mousetrap and one that we could install in a few hours instead of a w/e. We bought a Fairclough cover for our boat and although $$, the time it saves and the quality and fit are amazing. We can unload our frame from the car, install it and the cover in about two hours. The most time consuming thing is getting the frame supports and slats up on the boat while it is in the stands on on the blocks. The frame takes about 1.5 h to assemble (with unloading from the car). 15 -20 minutes to install the actual cover pieces and 20 minutes to tighten and snug up. We get minimal water on the deck and the boat is well ventilated. The cover fits the boat like a glove. No flapping edges or sagging areas.

Each year I had to spend about $150 in tarp supplies as tarps ripped some, wood pieces split, etc. It also took at a good part of a day to assemble the frame as the support slats were all screwed in to the ridge pole. Then it was another few hours to put on the plastic tarps. If it was windy, it took a lot longer. I always was checking on the boat after a heavy snow as something always undone. Now install it and once in a while check on the boat if I am in the area.

The custom canvas cover - Some of the best money I have ever spent for the boat.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

A tarp is maintenance and checking all winter, with minimum visit frequency of a couple of weeks (a couple of weeks max, a weekly visit to futz with it is optimal). Shrink wrap is set it and forget it.


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## WinterRiver (Oct 20, 2006)

Shrinkwrap doesn't have to be tossed each spring. I used the same shrinkwrap for 3 winters before switching to a hand-me-down canvas cover. I still have the shrinkwrap cover stored, just in case.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

WinterRiver said:


> Shrinkwrap doesn't have to be tossed each spring. I used the same shrinkwrap for 3 winters before switching to a hand-me-down canvas cover. I still have the shrinkwrap cover stored, just in case.


Do you mean on the Hylas 47 in your sig? That's an unimaginable amount of contorted shrink wrap to store.

If it is shrunk tightly, how do you get it 'unshrunk' to remove and then 'reshrunk' the following year?


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

The shrinkwarp guy comes to my house and does the boat for 300 dollars over my well designed frame 

A faircloth or other real nice cover is gonna have to last 20 years 

AS i have used canvas in the past on other boats it was always IMHP more of a PITA dealing with BIG snows as it was harder to slide it off the canvas and always involved me and a pushbroom keeping the snow load in control

My friends cover already had to be re-stitched by that big company as a PO left in on over one summer voiding the warranty


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

My 22 footer, I used a tarp. I built a make-shift frame, and it lasted the winter fine.

Bought my 25 footer, and the gentleman used an elaborate PVC pipe frame he built (I have all the pvc)... Honestly it worked fine, but the boat was full of pieces of tarp, and was harder to clean than my 22 footer.

I am fortunate, that I may have indoor storage this year for my boat... my opinion is the shrinkwrap is more a set it and forget it... Tarps work fine, but you cannot drape over stanchions, and you have to bring the tarp's angle up to slide the snow easily off. I think if you do the tarp, you should step the mast as well (if you can), and throw the boom on, bring the boom way up, and drape the tarp over that. It's you're best bet. Then if you can run ribs across the boom to deck it'll better support the tarp.

Just my worthless $0.02.

I hope I don't need to deal with that again this year, always was sad to see her under cover.


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## lancelot9898 (Dec 30, 2008)

I've used the same heavy duty canvas tarp over the boat for at least the past 15 years and it's done very well. The boat spends the entire winter in the Annapolis area in the water and the tarp is not even mounted on a hard frame. I do remove all sails and string a line from mast to backstay to form a frame and also add some lines from mast to boom gallows for additional support. The canvas is then put over this "frame" and the edges tied to the handrails along the cabin top. In those 15 or more years that setup remains sound during all sorts of weather and wind. It does not cover the entire boat, but will keep the snow off the cabin top and most of the cockpit and allows me to walk around the deck of the boat.


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## WinterRiver (Oct 20, 2006)

Minnewaska said:


> Do you mean on the Hylas 47 in your sig? That's an unimaginable amount of contorted shrink wrap to store.
> 
> If it is shrunk tightly, how do you get it 'unshrunk' to remove and then 'reshrunk' the following year?


Yes, I mean the Hylas 47. It is quite a bit of shrinkwrap (less than your 54 would use), but rolled and folded it all fits in my wagon.

Since I can't cover the painted topsides with shrinkwrap, I run it to the toerail, which makes it easier to remove and reinstall. I use pvc electrical conduit to create a reuseable arched frame. When I removed the shrinkwrap, I carefully sliced it to the stays and cut it into two pieces at the mast. It was basically lots of taping where it was cut. Each time I reused it I had to add a small bit of new shrinkwrap at the mast cut because I couldn't quite pull the two sections together. I didn't unshrink it (I don't think that's possible) and only needed to reshrink it where I didn't tape it tightly enough.

Really crazy is the fact that I did the original shrinkwrap myself with a home heat gun. With it going only to the toerail I could do all the work from the deck and shrink it from inside. Total cost the first time was about $200, after that about $30 for tape, and I still have a lot of shrinkwrap left.


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## rikhall (Feb 7, 2008)

We live just east of you. We have never done shrink wrap. Have done tarps the last 17 years. 

And yes - we build a good sturdy frame and are able to go on board any time we like. Our boat is 34 feet long and we keep it at our boat yard. About 15 minute drive from our home.

I have pics if you need them.

Rik


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## asdf38 (Jul 7, 2010)

This year I'm trying a slightly new system that I thought I'd share. So in years past I've relied primarily on weights but have also put one or two lines wrapped under the keel of the boat. However these lines never remain in tension.

So this year I'm trying a weight and a pulley to keep those lines under tension. I used 4 of them. The lines in the bow and stern are nice because they pull in all the excess tarp and leave less of a wind target.

All the anchor points are golf balls with slipped bowlines constricting around them. I'm a bit concerned about chafe on the lines running under the boat, I've seen it in the past, so I added a back-up line for the weight on the pulley line in-case it fails.

My frame is just two sawhorses (one tall one over the cockpit and another on the deck) with strapping boards running between them. I did a better job anchoring the sawhorses because last year they toppled in a wind storm (although the tarp remained intact).


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## CaptTom (Aug 27, 2012)

I'm a little (all right, a lot) late to this thread. But I do have a lot of experience with both tarps and shrink wrap, so I'll share some lessons learned:

Shrink wrap is a great idea, but I've never seen a yard that didn't cause some damage while putting up the frame and shrink wrap. And very few come out 100% perfect. There are always a few casualties during every wind or snow storm. So the whole "Set it and forget it" strategy really doesn't apply if you care about your boat. Unless maybe you did the shrink wrapping yourself.

There are two things you need to do right if you want your tarp to last the season:

1) Have a sharp pitch. As someone mentioned, snow doesn't slide off a tarp as well as shrink wrap. The only workable solution is a tall "A" frame that goes right up to the gunwale or rail.

2) Keep it tight. I've tried using bottles as weights, and it works. But lately I've changed to using shock cord pulled tight. If it flaps anywhere, or the wind can get under it anywhere, you've lost.

Probably the two biggest mistakes I see are allowing it to get loose somewhere, and allow water or snow to "pool" instead of slide off.

Using a spider web of small stuff (dollar store clothes line works great) can help avoid pooling, but ultimately the design of your "A" is more important. I've seen pooling where the tarp turns just a little over a rail. Once it starts to pool, you have to keep pulling it tight after each rain or snow because the pool will grow, ripping the tarp and supports. Then re-engineer that location next year.

I can walk through a boat yard this time of year and pretty accurately predict whose tarps will last, and whose won't. Those who put in a serious effort to keep them tight are almost always OK. Those who ignored even one slack area will lave lost the tarp by spring.


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## deltaten (Oct 10, 2012)

I help my Boat Buddy tarp his 34 foot sport cruiser each year. He uses some verticals bottom-blocked and padded to the deck and tie-braced to the rails. Then a wide, yellow shipping ratchet strap, fore to aft goes across and gets screwed to the tops of the studs, over the "spoiler" and down to a smaller, regular ratchet strap, going to each stern corner cleat..like a split-stay.
We add a few pc of lath, screwed to the sides of the vert. members to add strength and pad all the critical areas like the radome, ant. mounts and the entire length of the shipping strap and lath.
Then a huge, heavy-duty 30'X40' (?) silver poly tarp gets pulled over the whole thing; wrapping corners like a Christmas present. The edges are secured with those funky yellow snap-ring dealies and lines are secured to each side, passed under the keel. Some are tied off to the cleats, stern rails or prop shafts.

He figgers a tarp gets replaced every three to four years (blue poly only lasted two!) and most of the wood (well labeled and saved) will last nearer ten. Local costs for a shrinky-dink job have priced out to near $1500 , vs. a hundred or so amortized over three+ years!!!! All fits on top of and in the cargo area of the Explorer... along with tols and spares! Batteries consumables and the inflatable ride along on the trip home.

It took the two of us almost three lazy hours to wrap it up. A late b-fast, a couple cups o'coffee and a later stop for sammitches on the way home make a fall chore into fellowship and fun. 

I suspect the "new" boat will have a similar tarp job soon. A couple of 2x? props fore and aft bungee'd to the mast; some soft strap collars around same and a couple of ratchet straps from pulpit-to-mast-to-stern will support it. The folded "flap" astern will make a nifty boarding spot and ventilator. A 28X16 footer should make it stem ta stern with the snap toggles tied to the toe rail, tho I figger two separate sections might be better than a taped slit up the lee side! 

AFA wrap?? Some use it again. If ya have the $$ and the inclination; go ahead w/wrap. The prop shop has been under renovation for a few years. He has wrapped the new section with recycled shrink-um. Sure do make it windproof ! 

HTH,
Paul


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