# Swapping jibs sailing solo with no autopilot



## Michigander (Mar 7, 2015)

When sailing a Merit 25 solo with no autopilot system what is the best way to swap out jibs (for a smaller or larger depending on weather conditions)? Using jacklines and in irons would releasing the jib halyard then going up on deck with the "new" jib and quickly pulling the "old" down and attaching the "new" be something that could be done safely hoping the boat doesnt head off too much leaving the main (fully let out) to catch wind?

thanks


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## Classic30 (Aug 29, 2007)

Michigander said:


> When sailing a Merit 25 solo with no autopilot system what is the best way to swap out jibs (for a smaller or larger depending on weather conditions)? Using jacklines and in irons would releasing the jib halyard then going up on deck with the "new" jib and quickly pulling the "old" down and attaching the "new" be something that could be done safely hoping the boat doesnt head off too much leaving the main (fully let out) to catch wind?


Good question. The answer will depend a lot on how your jibs attach to the forestay. Are they hank-on or on a foil? Are you using a furler??

You'll need jacklines... but I'd strongly recommend against going head-to-wind because (a) you'll have a flogging headsail trying to throw you off the foredeck and (b) you'll be bucking any waves at the same time, making the foredeck a *very dangerous* place to be.

Assuming you're not using a furler, the safest way I've found is:
1. Heave to. 
2. Whilst hove to, set the new jib up on deck ready for the change - either hanked on underneath the old (release a few lower hanks to allow this) or on a spare halyard ready for a peel set.
3a. If hank-on: With tiller tied off on center-line and main in tight, lower the old jib. The boat will start sailing slowly to windward.
4a. Un-hank old jib and raise new jib.
5a. Uncleat tiller and bear away.
or
3b. If on head-foil: With tiller tied off on center-line, hoist new one to leeward of the old and set sheets for sailing close-hauled.
4b. Lower old jib (still pulled out to windward for the heave to) and away you go.
5b. Uncleat tiller and haul in mainsheet at your leisure.

Have fun.


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## RainDog (Jun 9, 2009)

I would rig a downhaul on the jib. When you are ready to change, go head to wind and sheet the main hard to the centerline. This will keep you pointed directly into the wind. Use the downhaul to drop the jib. Go forward and swap the jibs out. Return to the cockpit and raise the new jib. Backwind the new jib to get out of irons and sail away.


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## Jammer Six (Apr 2, 2015)

I'm with heaving to.

First thing they teach you, first thing everyone forgets.


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## aloof (Dec 21, 2014)

The boat will not be hove-to after lowering the old headsail. Try balancing the boat in a close reach. Bungee the helm off the weather and run an opposing line along the deck to the bow. While forward you can occasionally tug on this line to keep a reasonable course. Assumes conditions are not too bouncy. Generally best to drop the old sail, lash it to the lifelines, then hank on the new ... Possibly without un-hanking the old until later.


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## Classic30 (Aug 29, 2007)

aloof said:


> Generally best to drop the old sail, lash it to the lifelines, then hank on the new ... Possibly without un-hanking the old until later.


Only problem with this is that, unless you've got twin head-stays (not likely on a Merit 25), you can't hoist the new sail with the old hanked on above it. In this situation, that means spending a lot more time on the foredeck than is particularly comfortable in a blow...

That's one reason I (and many others I suspect) prefer using a head-foil setup instead of hanks. Having both new & old sails up at the same time equates to a lot more control over the boat.


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## aloof (Dec 21, 2014)

I assumed the OP does not have a twin groove foil. In that case you are correct. However one can hoist the second yanked on sail before unhanking the first. Such is common. One may need to skip the lowest hank. It can save much time, especially if the first sail may be re hoisted soon.


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## Classic30 (Aug 29, 2007)

aloof said:


> However one can hoist the second yanked on sail before unhanking the first. Such is common. One may need to skip the lowest hank. It can save much time, especially if the first sail may be re hoisted soon.


I think I understand: You're advocating lowering the old sail *first*, then hanking on the new one over it..

I've never been a fan of this procedure, since (with one exception*) I find removing a hanked-on sail on a bare-headed bucking foredeck generally easier/safer than clipping one on. This is why my original response suggested setting the new sail up whilst the other is still hoisted.

* = the exception is when a really smart boat-owner has removed all of his painful old piston-hanks, given them to the rookie down the end of the marina and installed Wichard hanks on all his headsails instead!! 
.. but that doesn't happen very often.


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## SimonV (Jul 6, 2006)

Invest in a roller furler, You will find your sailing enjoyment will go up by much more than the cost of this now basic item.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

The ONLY time you'll be doing this, will be to change DOWN headsail size. You likely are changing down headsail size because you are overpowered. This puts things into perspective... so now you are in chop, overpowered, and fighting the headsail solo without a tiller pilot.

You MUST get off wind.. and I am assuming you are unwilling to fire up the iron genny here, because that would obviously be your best bet, to motor into the wind, and use a tiller lock (or lash the tiller)... bring the genoa down in 1 30 second stint... then come back correct the tiller, and go forward and prep the jib.. then come back, correct and prepare the hoist.. in 30 seconds at a time.. good luck doing that with a jackline to screw around with.

Anyway... without a motor, changing down headsails, you'll want to be between a reach and a broad reach. Depower the main as much as possible (after all you are overpowered)... outhaul on hard, vang on hard, backstay on... now lash the tiller... ease the genoa... blow the halyard.. lock the tiller... rig a preventer for the boom (if you can). Work 30 seconds at a time. Get the genoa down, and removed. Come back and correct the tiller. My guess is you'll stop there. But lets say you are racing and you want to get that jib up because you've now lost 100 boat lengths. Go forward, hank on the 100, come back correct the tiller.... go back and hoist.

Get the picture? It's gonna be a real PITA.

I'm all for the suggestion of rigging a REAL downhaul for the jib, if its on hanks (likely we are talking about a J/24 here).

ONE last suggestion, is to rig a set of lines forward... one wrapped around the tiller and run to port through a series of blocks on the rail, the other wrapped around the tiller, and run to starboard.. through blocks. With this you can "steer" the boat from the bow. pull starboard, go to port, etc. This works as a poor mans remote control (buddy of mine used to do this all the time with his S2 to video/film from the bow)... This only works if you have a set of bungees that pull the tiller to dead center automagically to straighten it for you. This again, only works well downwind.


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## Hudsonian (Apr 3, 2008)

It will help if you rigged a downhaul on the luff of the old sail and you have the new sail in a hot dog bag. Use the down haul to lower the old sail and lash the sail to the stanchion bases or toe rail with sail ties. Only open the hot dog bag enough to access the luff. Remove the first hank above the tack on the old sail and affix the top hank on the new sail to the forestay in the gap where you just removed the hank from the old sail. Remove the halyard from the old sail and affix it to the head of the new sail. Continue alternately unsnapping the next hank up on the old sail and affixing the next hank down on the new sail. When you have all the hanks on the new sail affixed remove the tack of the old sail and affix the tack of the new sail. Remove any remaining hanks on the old sail. Remove the hot dog bag. hoist the new sail.


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

Get a stick autopilot.

Life will get easier and MUCH SAFER!


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## Minnesail (Feb 19, 2013)

I haven't done this in heavy winds or heaving seas, but we are talking about small boats here so maybe the OP isn't talking about that either.

On my boat, only 3' smaller than the poster's, here's what I do:

Sheet the main in tight 
Blow the jib
Steer up just past close-hauled so I'm luffing a little
Tie off the tiller

Then the boat kind of steers itself giving me plenty of time to go up to the mast and release the jib halyard and collect the jib. Yes, the jib is flogging while this is going on, but it's a pretty brief period of time.

Again, I'm only done in fairly benign conditions.

I'll be running the halyards back to the cockpit and rigging a downhaul this year, that should make it even easier.


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

Good advice for a difficult question. I agree with finding the point of sail on which the boat sails most comfortably - perhaps a broad reach. Tie off the tiller and blow the jib, drop the jib and replace with the new jib. Being single handing, tethering yourself to the boat is, in my opinion, critical. One other thought: You may be close to shore. Is there a place where you can duck out of the wind to make this change. Where I am, in Santa Cruz, there is a wharf, and a couple of headlands, which often offer wind shadows. When I am doing sail evolutions, it's sometimes easiest to duck in there. Not always possible, but worth a consideration. Roller furling (jib and main) sure make this easier.


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## dave22q (Jun 1, 2011)

I see 2 safe ways-- lash tiller with motor on or drop a hook. anything else is a betting on winds not veering, your not slipping while rushing back and forth, etc. as a single hander it would be wise to re-rig your lines to the cockpit. next invest in a roller furling genny.

in general I would not switch headsails unless the wind picked up a lot. its way too much trouble if the wind proves lighter than you expected and you are underpowered..


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## aloof (Dec 21, 2014)

We were discussing sail changes. Roller furlers make sail changes very much more difficult. Roller furlers guarantee the one has the wrong sail up about 50 to 75 percent of the time.

Motoring or anchoring? Really?

If she will not behave under main alone with tiller lashed, or a steering line led forward, then just center the main tightly, possibly reefed. Then tie the tiller, probably centered. She will tack around a bit, go in irons, perhaps heel over, but one can certainly go forward and swap out the jib. We are talking small boats here...jibs that can be carried under one arm...right. With some practice at the mooring one should be able to swap the jib in a minute or two with one trip forward.


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## dave22q (Jun 1, 2011)

roller furling eliminates sail changes. just adjust the amount flown. as to easier in small boats I beg to differ. a wind gust or wave can easily throw you into a mess. as to dropping a jib, removing, hanking on and hoisting a replavement in one minute. not bloody likely even in a dead calm. you miss the key issues, you should only be doing his if the winds are a lot stronger than expected and when single handing, one slip can be very bad news.


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## Classic30 (Aug 29, 2007)

dave22q said:


> roller furling eliminates sail changes. just adjust the amount flown. ...


That depends on the furler setup and the way the sail is designed, since many roller-furling sails simply don't work properly when most of the way in (ie. the boat will no longer sail to windward to get off of a lee shore) and the cloth is too light to handle storm conditions without significant damage.

Yes, furlers have their place whilst single-handing, but getting caught in a storm off a lee-shore would not be somewhere I'd like to be with my headsail on the furler.


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