# Single Handed Cruiser



## Rustyf (Nov 7, 2007)

I am casually looking to buy a coastal cruiser in the 32-36 ft. range that will be sailed by myself with help from my wife. When I discuss single handed sailing with some brokers and others the mantra seems to be to just make sure that all line lead to the cockpit. I am sure that there is more to it than that. 

Would appreciate any thoughts on a more precise description of what I should be looking for. The boat will likely be one built from 1994 to 2002 such as a Tartan or Sabre.

Thanks.


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## Zanshin (Aug 27, 2006)

I singlehand and agree that it makes life easier when all lines lead back to the cockpit; that way there is no need to leave the safety of the cockpit for any normal conditions including putting in up to the 3rd reef. I have in-mast furling for the mainsail and think that is beneficial.

Another important thing for a singlehander is an autopilot or wind-vane steering. This allows you to do various things away from the wheel while under sail, be it repairing something, going below to cook, or to get some sleep.

I've seen boats without self-tailing winches which would be next to impossible to singlehand easily.


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## JohnRPollard (Mar 26, 2007)

In addition to having halyards and other control lines (vang, topping lift, reef lines, etc) led aft to the cockpit, I find it helpful to have the mainsheet, traveller controls lines, and genoa sheets/winches within easy reach while standing at the helm. Likewise the genoa furling line if so equipped.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

To start with, while many of my ideas match many of the latest throughts on short and single-handers, I know that my take on what makes the ideal single-hander is a bit different than much of the conventional wisdom and I also believe that this is another topic where there isn't one universally right answer. My point of view has evolved over the 45 years that I have been single-handing boats, and while I have owned and single-handed boats that conventional wisdom would call nearly ideal, I know that I have evolved my own own ideas through trial and error and so admit that they may only represent one person's opinion, mine. 

If you really expect to do a lot of single-handing then there are a variety of factors that can help make the boat easier to handle. As has been suggested it does make it much easier to single-hand a boat if the halyards, vang, and reef lines are lead back to the cockpit. It is very helpful if the mainsheet, traveller, backstay adjuster, and jib sheet winches are within easy reach of of the helm. I suggest that lighter weight boats with higher ballast ratios and easily driven hulls can get by with less sail area, in my opinion making them more ideal as single-handers. 

The whole thing about single-handing is that the boat needs to be set up to do things reliably since you do not have extra crew to assist if something goes wrong. On that basis, I strongly believe that in-mast furling hs no place on a single-hander. Similarly, I strongly recommend a two line reefing system that can be left rigged for each reef point. Also similarly, I strongly believe that fractional rigs proportioned for minimally overlapping headsails makes an ideal rig for single-handing as they are easier to tack reliably and require fewer sail changes. I suggest that mid-boom sheeting and cabin top mounted travellers are less than ideal because of the high frictional losses and lack of convenience from the helm.

A reliable auto-pilot is extremely helpful, especially if you plan to fly spinnakers. Windvanes are great if you plan to make longer passages. On smaller boats (under 36-38 feet), tillers with tiller extensions can make it easier to single-hand because you are able to move around the cockpit and still steer. 

While Tartan and Sabre build nice coastal cruisers, from my perspective most of the rig design, and deck layouts on their 32 to 36 footers make them pretty poor single-handers. 

Respectfully,
Jeff


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## JohnRPollard (Mar 26, 2007)

Jeff_H said:


> While Tartan and Sabre build nice coastal cruisers, from my perspective most of the rig design, and deck layouts on their 32 to 36 footers make them pretty poor single-handers. Respectfully, Jeff


Jeff,
Good advice. Your point about exploring fractionally rigged boats is an especially good one. I would only add to this point that Rusty avoid any fractional rig whose design requires running backstays. Runners would add an unwelcome level of complexity for a singlehander, in my opinion. But I also would hasten to add that there are certainly plenty of fractionally rigged boats, especially of the newer variety in the age range Rusty is considering, that do not require runners. So he should be able to find a suitable candidate.

As for the Tartans and Sabres, I wonder if you would extend your comment above to the new CCR rigs available on some of the Tartans? The T3400 has this rig as an option, with a fractional, self-tending jib inboard and a larger off-wind headsail further forward on a furler. I can't recall the exact date of introduction, but I believe it may have been within the years Rusty is looking, i.e. early 2000's.


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

You may consider that from the point of view of effort, simplicity and access to lines, a tiller offers many advantages over a wheel when single-handing. It is easy to steer with the knees (or the crack of one's rear!) while freeing both hands for winch work. Another aspect is physically reaching around a cockpit to make sure that you can reach everything easily...which argues for a fairly narrow, longer cockpit with a narrow bridgedeck. A strong set of long arms is the single-hander's friend. Also, of course, with a tiller you can use a simple extender and can sit on the high side coaming, greatly improving visibility and frankly, fun...as well as making checking the sail set a snap.

I would also suggest that the most effective foresail is a 100% blade decksweeper jib. With halyards led back and with a downhaul led the same way, a jib can be doused onto the deck quicker than it can be furled. This gives you the ability to tack cleanly but with an efficient sail shape. I can't tell you how much fun I have with my "blade-cut" No. 3 decksweeper...it's a great sail up to the 25 knot mark.

Does this mean going forward to put it away or to reef it to a jib tack hook? Yes, but I think on a 35 foot boat the ideal of "never leaving the cockpit" is both unnecessary and presents too many compromises in most situations.

I feel particularly for the single-hander, ease of access and function trumps issues like how the cockpit table deploys or will eight people fit under the bimini.


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## soulesailor (Nov 18, 2007)

All these points are good. Keep in mind having all the controls led back to the cockpit is one way of doing it, the other is having all controls led to the mast. Many singlehanders do it each way and both have their attributes and loyal following. The biggest reason(s) for running controls to the mast are: minimizing cockpit clutter, decreasing friction in the lines as they pass through blocks and change direction, a lot of times you need to go forward at some point in the process anyway. My point is that you don't need to have all the controls led back to the cockpit to begin singlehanding. If you like a boat that has its controls at the mast sail it for a while and run things back to the cockpit later if you find that is the style that suits you.


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## AlanBrown (Dec 20, 2007)

Excellent advice from all! Just a couple other thoughts .

Windlass. The fewer times you have to go out on deck the better!

Safety harness and jackline. You do not want to go overboard! My harness is incorporated into the inflatable life vest I always wear while singlehanding. I am always clipped on while on deck on in the cockpit.

Egg timer. It is very easy to fall asleep during a long crossing. A egg timer set to go off every 10 minutes or so allows you to take brief naps, but wakes you up so you can check on your course, approaching vessels, etc.

Auto-pilot!!! I will no longer sail without one.

Enjoy yourself and your new boat.


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## slyrss3 (Mar 5, 2006)

If you had a jib boom, you could rig that up so you could reef the jib from the cockpit, just like reefing the main. Though it's nice to have lines led aft, it's not necessary. You can heave to and go forward to reef the main or reef/change the headsil at your leisure. It is important to have main sheet & jib sheet winches at hand as said before.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

One thing that is very convenient for a single-handing sailor, especially in crowded harbor situation where short tacking may be necessary, is a self-tacking jib. Most boats don't have this, but can be retrofitted with it fairly easily.

There are pros and cons to leading the lines aft to the cockpit or leaving them at the mast. Singlehanding, having the lines lead aft, provided the winches are large enough to compensate for the additional friction in the system, is probably a better choice.

A windlass and a good primary anchor are key to single-handing if you're cruising. Having a badly designed anchor that requires it be raised and reset is a losing proposition when singlehanding a boat. Makes for an uneasy night on the hook too.

I can't emphasize how important the safety harness, jacklines and tether are to the singlehander. *You have to stay on the boat*.

An autopilot is a very good idea... one of my friend's has defined hell as a long voyage, singlehanded without any form of selfsteering. 

Lazy jacks or some other system of containing the mainsail when dousing it are a must. I would also agree that in-mast or in-boom furling really has no place on a boat for a singlehanded sailor.

A roller furling headsail is a good thing... but having something like the ATN GaleSail is probably wise, for when the weather gets really bad.

I'd also agree that a tiller, especially on a smaller boat, say less than 35', would make far better sense than a wheel. Rigging a line to hold a tiller in position or using lines to create self-steering is much simpler with a tiller. You can also steer a tiller without using your hands to some degree. A tiller also gives you more feedback and that can help you know if the boat is overpowered or badly trimmed.


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## kenhoneycutt (Dec 3, 2006)

Just curious as to why in mast furling is not considered beneficial to singlehandling. I have in mast now on my boat and really like the convenience (I singlehand 99% of the time). Granted I sail inland on Lake Michigan which is different than blue water sailing, but I found that standing on top of the cabin tying down the main could be a PITA at times when in a crowded harbor with a half dozen large powerboats wizzing about doing their best to see how much of a wake they could put out with 15 to 20 blowing.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

In-mast furling is fine when it works... but when it jams it can leave you with a lot of sail area up when you least want sail area up.  From what I've seen they tend to jam more readily in the conditions you'd least want them to jam in... higher winds. It also leaves more weight aloft, which reduces the stability of the boat a bit and generally adds windage aloft as well. It can also make it really hard to bring the main down when it jams... since you have to unfurl the main to get the sail down.


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## Plumper (Nov 21, 2007)

So far everyone has only discussed sail handling. I find sailing the easy part to single handing. Some of my lines are led aft:
-main halyard
-both reefs
-outhaul
Everything led aft is within reach of the helm but Auto usually steers.

I have to go forward to raise, reef and lower my jib (a blade). I have to go forward to anchor.

A big consideration is the other stuff you do during the day. Where is your galley and will the kettle stay on the stove while you are up top sailing? How do you go to the bathroom? Where is the radio and chart table? Are the tide books and other navigation references handy? Where is all the safety gear (flares, EPIRB, first aid kit, flashlight). Is everything properly stowed for when that big stinkpot goes by and you take a deep roll. Where is the sunscreen and your foul weather gear?

Like I said, sailing is easy, it is all the little other things that you do that require planning and practice. Most people who go for a sail around the harbour for a couple hours need nothing special to singlehand a modest boat. If you are navigating, sailing, cooking and talking on the radio, life can get very interesting.

Every read that story about the single hander who went for a dump and while he was sitting on the head the boat took a roll and something jammed the door to the head so he couldn't get out?


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## seabreeze_97 (Apr 30, 2006)

Okay, so how do opinions run for mainsail furlers like the CDI unit? Mounted to boom with a foil running vertically, high point mounted to mast. Been talking with a fellow on a Bristol 34 that swears by it.


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## Stu01 (Feb 15, 2008)

Hello All,
(My first post.) I was wondering why the in-mast or in-boom furler is a bad idea for single-handers? Is it because if the furler jams you are in a pickle?
Thanks
Stu


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## Plumper (Nov 21, 2007)

I am still skeptical about headsail furling after a bad experience on a windy day. I would not have mainsail furling on my small cruiser. Too much to go wrong, too expensive, too much weight up high when I least want it. I don't find handling real sails to be a chore. When I undo my halyard (main or jib) the sails just fall to the deck, still held on by the hanks, Nothing goes over the side, the excitement is over. It is that easy.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Headsail furlers are far more evolved and tested than mainsail furling systems IMHO, and have proven themselves over the course of many major events, like Dame Ellen's single-handed circumnavigation and the OSTAR races. They're pretty much standard equipment on most modern boats, unlike in-mast furling.


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## Plumper (Nov 21, 2007)

Dame Ellen had several furling headsails and some code zeros furlers as well. That kind of redundancy is well out of my reach. If I remember correctly she also had failures.
With single headsail on a standard sloop things are a little different. While furlers are convenient and well tested, taking the sail off one at sea (especially if single handing) is far more difficult than changing a hank on head sail. I wouldn't take a good one (furler) off a boat but I wouldn't rush to put one on a boat either. Hanks just seem to have a better reputation.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Yes, she may have had some failures, but she also put the equipment through conditions that most singlehanded sailors aren't going to be encountering. The fact that most of her gear made it through unscathed is a testimony to the durability and reliability of modern furling gear.



Plumper said:


> Dame Ellen had several furling headsails and some code zeros furlers as well. That kind of redundancy is well out of my reach. If I remember correctly she also had failures.
> With single headsail on a standard sloop things are a little different. While furlers are convenient and well tested, taking the sail off one at sea (especially if single handing) is far more difficult than changing a hank on head sail. I wouldn't take a good one (furler) off a boat but I wouldn't rush to put one on a boat either. Hanks just seem to have a better reputation.


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## saildork (Feb 20, 2007)

This is a great thread with lots of good advise. So here's my 2 cents worth: Think ahead before you leave the dock. Practice reefing, heaving-to, changing headsails, etc. in light-air conditions if you've never done these things by yourself. If you're not sure how much sail to put up, reef the main and hank on something smaller than your 150% genoa before you head out. Be conservative and deliberate in your planning, whether your daysailing or long-range cruising.


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Modern Boom Furlers would be an advantage to the single handler making the main easy to set and reef to any level desired without ever leaving the cockpit. As there is no risk of a jam (sail can always be dropped) they are a good choice for offshore IF you can handle the heavy price..for both the boom and the sail which must be custom fit.

The CDI unit is not a boom furler...it is a behind the mast foil which is not efficient and still subject to jams and with high windage.


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## Plumper (Nov 21, 2007)

It is a luxury. There are many other things I would get before mainsail furling.


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## Plumper (Nov 21, 2007)

And those fat booms are ugly.


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Hey...I didn't call that funky looking pilot house ugly!! 
The boom furlers work great...this isn't the FRUGAL singlehanders thread...no one said you had to get one..only that they work...but if you're still hanking on your jib and waiting for the sun to come out for a position fix I would guess it ain't gonna be your choice.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Cam-

Be nice to the luddite...


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## Plumper (Nov 21, 2007)

I am a confined GPS user. I have spent many cold wet mornings trying to bring down stars while everyone else was having breakfast. No thanks on the sextant.
Love my hank on jib and that little pilothouse is funky n'est pas?
I am sure that your boom furler works great, I just don't want one. Too many moving parts. Less is more. K.I.S.S.
Then again, my boat isn't 52 feet long and I can handle everything without furling systems.


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

Plumper said:


> I wouldn't take a good one (furler) off a boat but I wouldn't rush to put one on a boat either. Hanks just seem to have a better reputation.


I've had both, and while I have a decent ProFurl with a yankee jib on the forestay, the staysail is hank-on, and I wouldn't have furling on that particular sail, nor would I have in-mast furling for reasons of sail shape, jamming and the danger that it might get stuck at the wrong time. Also, how the hell are you supposed to rig a trysail? Maybe that's not an issue with the 'convenience' crowd.

If the Profurl broke, I wouldn't mind going to hank-ons. I could certainly carry a far greater sail area forward then for light airs.

I might on a larger boat have boom furling, but that preserves the battens and depends on gravity: if it buggers up, release the halyard and claw the main down. Four ties and it's not pretty, but it's secure.

But I am happy to have things as simple and dependable as slab reefing, a well-greased track, and the ability to anticipate...usually.. when it is prudent to reef.

But to each his own. If the object is single-handing, then the goal is simplicity and ruggedness, I think.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

IMHO, in-boom furling is far less an issue than in mast furling. If the boom furler fails or jams, you can still slab reef or furl the sail completely. If the in-mast system jams or fails, you're screwed.  Big difference. You don't have to unfurl the sail from a boom furler to get it down or reef it when the system jams... like you do with a mast-furling system.


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## PBzeer (Nov 11, 2002)

With furlers, whether head or main, I think it makes a big difference what your sailing venue is. For passagemaking, hank-on headsails and a non-furled main make good sense. One less thing to break. For coastal and inland though (unless racing) you're not going to be making sail changes (or at least really need to on the fly), so furling makes sense in that situation.

If someone gave me a good in-boom furler, I'd put it on in a heartbeat, though I wouldn't have in-mast.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I bought a Hallberg-Rassy 37 last year and have found it perfect for single
handed sailing. The small cockpit makes it easy to reach both winches for
jib sheets. Also, the mainsheet is designed to be used without a winch so it's
much easier to tend to. I also had a switch for the anchor windlass put on the
binacle and a command mic for the VHF.

I had in-mast furling on my beneteau 331 which jammed. The in-mast furling
on the HR is selden and looks like much better engineering. I haven't had any
problems with it so far. I heard that German Frers increased the draft on the
HR37 because he assumed most would be ordered with in-mast furling.

Cheers, Hank


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## Plumper (Nov 21, 2007)

sailingdog said:


> IMHO, in-boom furling is far less an issue than in mast furling. If the boom furler fails or jams, you can still slab reef or furl the sail completely. If the in-mast system jams or fails, you're screwed.  Big difference. You don't have to unfurl the sail from a boom furler to get it down or reef it when the system jams... like you do with a mast-furling system.


What if it breaks when the sail is down?


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## rennisaint (Oct 25, 2007)

> What if it breaks when the sail is down?


Then you get to take the time to fix it when things are nice and calm, instead of screaming along in a F10 (when else would it fail?) under full main babbling to whatever gods you can think of.

Sorry I'm in a bit of a sarcastic mood today, but seriously, if you insist on a main furler and plan on going anywhere where you may not want to have your entire mainsail out, boom seems it may be a better choice than mast. Not to say I've ever seen a mast furler fail.


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## Plumper (Nov 21, 2007)

I guess my question really was, can you easily get the furled main off the boom if the system breaks when the main is down. It seems to me that repairing it might not be possible and being able to use the sail with the furler broken is probably pretty important.


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## rennisaint (Oct 25, 2007)

Without any experience in the matter and so therefore just for the sake of discussion until someone smacks me down and tells me whats what. You could remove the sail from the mast track and literally unwind it if need be, or like these poor folks, you can just drag it down and tie it off and pray.

http://www.adagiomarine.com/techno/boom_furler_issues.html

a rather good write up about their experience with an in boom furler.


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## Zanshin (Aug 27, 2006)

In-mast furling is one of those hot topics which tends to polarize people. I have it and love it and have yet to have a problem with it. Many of the people who state categorically that in-mast furling is terrible and dangerous are basing their opinion on anecdotal evidence or hearsay but a couple of posts on this thread from people who have experienced problems do lend weight to the "contra" arguments.
Until recently headsail furlers were considered too unreliable yet they are now accepted as standard and safe. In-mast systems will go through the same evolution. Although my main sail cannot shape without those battens and it does add weight aloft, I can reef easily and quickly singlehanded and have (I must shamefully admit) misjudged a squall or not paid attention to the weather until too late and needed to emergency reef - all I need to do is let out the outhaul the appropriate amount and crank in the roller and can usually do that at any wind angle with more or less tension on the line. I am not limited to 2 or 3 settings but can vary it at will. Letting out a bit of reef is easier still.

Yes, if the furling mechanism jams then I am SOL. But traditional mainsails have jammed open as well (here I'm guilty of using anecdotal evidence).

To get away from this "hot button" topic I have a couple of other aspects I thought about when selecting a boat structure for singlehanding:
- engine controls at the wheel, no need to go below to turn on/off
- surmountable rudder forces for the autopilot in heavy weather
- cockpit where I can stretch out and sleep on any heel
- comfortable "bad weather" position that isn't in the elements
- easy access to navigation panel from cockpit

There are numerous other factors but a lot of them aren't dependent on boat design but on how the boat is set up (jacklines, radar, liferaft for example)

*EDIT *: I just read the article posted by rennisaint and it was interesting! It reminds me an issue I had when I replaced the furling line on my in-mast furling and managed to put the new one in without fixing it in place, then stripped the line out of the mechanism with the sail fully furled. It took me over an hour of fiddling, including using some thin poly line and some whipping cord and a couple of bandages for my cuts, to get the whole thing put together. That was at dock during the day; if the line had parted in the same place (which it might if I were emergency furling with the boom at an angle to the hull and the sail under load) then I would really be in trouble and there is way I could get that fixed at sea in hurry!


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## rennisaint (Oct 25, 2007)

I also like to have the breaker panel close enough to the companionway that I can reach and access it, but it also needs to be protected obviously.


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Plumper...My first response is secure the in-boom main and hoist the old main that you had to discard when buying the in boom furler! Not the most elegant...but it will work till conditions permit the boom furler to be worked on. 
Alternatively...turn on the engine....(or proceed under mizzen and stays'l! )
The reality is that modern boom furlers are quite unlikely to fail in this manner and improve safety on deck by a LOT...so it is a fair trade off for me...again..if you have the bucks to play with. A stack-pack would be my second choice if budget were more of a consideration.


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## rennisaint (Oct 25, 2007)

> A stack-pack would be my second choice if budget were more of a consideration.


Cam,

Got any experience with these? I thought they looked pretty neat, but never seen one in action.


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## PBzeer (Nov 11, 2002)

I have a stack pack on my boat, and for me, it works very well.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Giu's got something very similar to a stack pack on his boat, but unlike the stack pack, it isn't attached to the sail.


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## Rustyf (Nov 7, 2007)

Thanks to all. The information provided was on point and very understandable. As I noted I have not yet bought a boat. My next step is to go to a sailing school in the PNW and get a bareboat charter license. Then on to the next step which is to convince my wife that sailing in the San Juans and Puget sound would be a lot of fun for both of us and friends and worth the expense. How to do this will be the subject of another thread.

Thanks again.


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