# Off Shore Sailing Harness/Tether



## Arcb (Aug 13, 2016)

Hi,

I will be racing with a freind off shore. He requires crew to be tethered.

I have used tethers, but don't currently own one.

I guess I will need a harness that will fit over my dry suit and PFD. Should have 2 different length tethers.

What to buy?


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

The Kong Elastic Tether Double is probably the best value. They make components and complete tethers for Spinlock, West Marine, and others. Their Tango carabiner has become the standard.


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

I can sell you a Lirakis with 2 - 6 foot tethers... PM me


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## AndyL (Dec 1, 2019)

We use the Kong double tethers and having the shorter leg is very useful. We weren't sure where people usually clip the spare leg when not in use so we added a short loop of thin cord where the webbing goes through the quick release shackle and we clip the spare leg to that (you shouldn't clip it back to you or your harness as it defeats the quick release). What do other's do?

Our PFDs have harness attachments but at one point we wanted separate harnesses and bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CV21IJM. They were a good price and fine to wear but of course we never fall tested them!

You may want to double check with your friend, in case he has any other requirements - for example, maybe he expects you to have an offshore PFD with harness built in.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

I apologize that this was copied from an earlier response to a discussion on jacklines and tethers but it does provide my response on the topic.

"I have typically used store bought purpose built tethers. Rather than use a 2 meter long and a 1 meter long shorter tether I use two- 2 meter long tethers. If I need a shorter tether to keep me in place, I fold one of the long tethers over the jackline (or other solid object) and attach it back onto my chest ring.

The tethers that I have been using are the ones with shock-chord (bungy) inside so that when not in use they are only a meter or so long making it harder to trip over them.

My current set of jacklines are starting to look pretty rough. I am planning to replace them reusing their end fittings which are in like new condition. My plan is to thread dyneema through tubular webbing. The dymeema will be spliced at the end and luggage tagged onto the end fittings. The dyneema will be the actual structural component with the tubular webbing reducing the risk of the tether being a slipping hazard. I will probably stitch some tubing over the exposed ends of the dyneema to protect it from the sun. I will also insert shock-chord in the tubing to retract it to around a meter.

Now then, before I get blasted, I know that this runs counter to standard recommendations. Modern tethers are not 'dumb' pieces of kit. They are carefully engineered. They are purposely engineered to stretch slightly to absorb shocks and have 'marker stitching' that are supposed to change color or otherwise indicate that the tether needs to be replaced since it have reached its safe working load. The same is true of jacklines. The idea behind having some stretch in the system is that a hard fall against a system with no stretch can do a lot more bodily harm. Having had the wind knocked out of me in a fall, I have no doubt that concern has validity. I also know that the basic science behind modern tethers and harnesses is very sophisticated and evolved- coming out of decades of research from the construction industry and the climbing community. I have to believe that there is a very strong basis for their design and construction.

But, my thoughts on harnesses, tethers and jacklines are that they exist to prevent me from being able to fall far enough to make it over the rail. I believe from experience that stretch of a foot or so can be the difference from lying bruised on the deck vs being bruised and battered in the water trying to get back on board before you drown. At least that is my operating theory.

Consequently, my jacklines are intended to have minimal stretch and are in fact a repurposed a very heavy, kevlar-cored halyard with a tensile strength in the 14,000-15,000 lbs range. . While I have purposefully chosen to live with this operating theory for myself, I have no doubt that this may not be the right answer in all or even most cases. Because I am not a safety expert, I suggest that you kick this around with real experts before you decide what works for you personally.

As far as harnesses, I have a very heavy duty Lirakis harness that I used for many years. It is a work of art. But it was not adjustable and was too tight in winter and too loose in summer. For the past decade I have been using a hydrostatic triggered inflatable PFD that has an integral harness. I really believe in this. It is comfortable to wear and unobtrusive as I move around the boat. It does not trigger in rain or if I get doused by a wave. It fits over my winter or summer clothing. If per chance, one does go over the side, whether clipped in or not, the inflatable will help keep from drowning, My inflatable did not come with crouch straps. I am equivocal about the store bought variety for a few reasons. The adjuster clips are plastic and do not seem to be as sturdy as I would like. Some have a release that makes getting in and out of the harness easier but which seems vulnerable to damage or not being properly connected. As a result I may build my own (probably with dyneema inside webbing). (On the other hand, I know that my current prototyping with sail ties is a really dumb idea.)

Jeff


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## pnw2022 (3 mo ago)

Another +1 for the Kong double tethers. It is extremely convenient when moving forward to be able to unclip clip on the second leg before unclipping the old one. Also, once positioned somewhere, the ability to use either the longer or shorter leg for a close attachment while still having enough reach to perform work is useful.

Also, if you buy a used one - be sure to confirm the shackle that is on the PFD release end. Many of the older ones were built such that under load (like being dragged by the boat in the water) it would not release entirely free. Many older ones also do not have an 'overload' indicator - basically a small nylon section on the tether that if/when it is used at maximum working load some stitching will separate and show that it should be replaced.

I have no particular recommendations on harnesses, and although I do have a couple of older harness-only types but typically just use the harness built into my PFD. Do make sure you get a system that has crotch straps as around the waist/shoulders can have a tendency to pull up.



https://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/WSOffshoreSpecialRegulations20222023v2-%5B27823%5D.pdf


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

To avoid tripping over the unused tether, wrap it around your waist like a belt. Out of the way. I learned this trick from a Volvo race guy.

And don't clip the end to your harness--this defeats the quick release function, a mistake that has led to one fatality (capsized monohull, _Windnutz_) that I am aware of.


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## colemj (Jul 10, 2003)

Jeff_H said:


> Now then, before I get blasted, I know that this runs counter to standard recommendations.


Why should the jackline provide stretch? How is connecting to a non-stretch dyneema jackline any different from connecting to a fixed hard point, which is standard practice? I imagine that the geometry of a jackline, coupled with the mechanics of a fall overboard would provide sufficient give/slowing to prevent whatever issue a stretchy jackline is supposed to.

Mark


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## colemj (Jul 10, 2003)

pdqaltair said:


> And don't clip the end to your harness--this defeats the quick release function, a mistake that has led to one fatality (capsized monohull, _Windnutz_) that I am aware of.


Not sure I'm understanding this part. If the end of the tether is clipped to the harness, then it doesn't matter about the quick release because it isn't connected to a jackline anyway - you are already released.

Our harnesses quick release releases the loop on the harness itself, and anything attached to it falls away.

Mark


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

I don't recall if I posted this or not... if I did... mods please delete.
I went overboard immediately after attaching one of the two 6' tethers to the slotted toe rail on the lee side. I was using a Lirakis harness. Boat went down into a trough and the up very quickly sending me flying off the deck and then over the life lines.... when the bow came down... I was in the water being dragged along. I was able to get a leg around a stanchion and pull myself under the life lines... soaking wet of course. If this was on the windward side I have no idea how I would have gotten back aboard.


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## pnw2022 (3 mo ago)

From the picture of a Kong tether: Elastic Tether Double - Sailing accessories - KONG

The two legs with the big carabiners/shackles - those go to the jack lines or hard points, are extremely secure from any accidental release even if being bumped/smacked by something (say a wayward winch handle) but may not free up and stay hooked/snagged when under load.
The smaller shackle on the left, that goes to your harness/PFD, and it is explicitly designed to fully release freely even when under load.

And yes - another aspect (which is primarily the skipper's responsibility, not original poster here as new crew) is how to locate the jack lines.
Definitely it is better to keep them near centerline, so that if you do take a spill you can not fall completely over the side and be unable to get back on.
Similar not too far to the stern and being able to entirely fall off the aft and being dragged that way.
Another advantage of the dual-leg tethers - that you can use the shorter leg when it is appropriate to minimize how far over you will go.


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

We've found the West Marine harnesses with tethers work. We provide harnesses and tethers for each crew to use as a minimum safety standard. If a crew has his own that he or she likes more, they can use that - if we think it's at least equal to what we provide.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

colemj said:


> Not sure I'm understanding this part. If the end of the tether is clipped to the harness, then it doesn't matter about the quick release because it isn't connected to a jackline anyway - you are already released.
> 
> Our harnesses quick release releases the loop on the harness itself, and anything attached to it falls away.
> 
> Mark


Good question. Many folks have missed this. Tethers should come with a "parking loop" for the extra tether, but only a few do.

If one end is clipped on, and the other end is clipped back to the harness, when you pull the quick release it becomes a 3 + 6 = 9-foot tether. Try it.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

colemj said:


> Why should the jackline provide stretch? How is connecting to a non-stretch dyneema jackline any different from connecting to a fixed hard point, which is standard practice? I imagine that the geometry of a jackline, coupled with the mechanics of a fall overboard would provide sufficient give/slowing to prevent whatever issue a stretchy jackline is supposed to.
> 
> Mark


The tight rope effect. First, if a jackline is tight between two points and has no stretch, the jackline tension aproaches infinity when you fall agaist it. In reality there is some stretch, but the tension on a non-stretch jackline can easily reach tons with a good fall (I've published the test results). The jackline regs were written when polyester rope or webbing was standard and have not been up dated to reflect Dyneema. In generarl, Dyneema jacklines and attachment points need to be stronger than the reg say.

Most tethers have very little stretch. Hook one to a tree, run the other way with full slack as though you were falling, and see how much it hurts your ribs (start slow--you could break a rib). This is also why you want to keep your tethers short. You don't need to stand tall. Often the best answer is a 6-foot tether when moving, then leave that on the jackline and clip short (3' or 3' doubled = 18") while working. Tethers are not made of stretchy material (they are nylon, but a very low stretch weave).


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## colemj (Jul 10, 2003)

pdqaltair said:


> Good question. Many folks have missed this. Tethers should come with a "parking loop" for the extra tether, but only a few do.
> 
> If one end is clipped on, and the other end is clipped back to the harness, when you pull the quick release it becomes a 3 + 6 = 9-foot tether. Try it.


Ah, I missed the point about being a double tether with one leg attached back to the harness. When using a double tether, I would clip the lazy one onto the working one, and not the harness. Our current harnesses release the entire harness attachment point, so parking a lazy leg there wouldn't be an issue.

Mark


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## colemj (Jul 10, 2003)

pdqaltair said:


> The tight rope effect. First, if a jackline is tight between two points and has no stretch, the jackline tension aproaches infinity when you fall agaist it. In reality there is some stretch, but the tension on a non-stretch jackline can easily reach tons with a good fall (I've published the test results). The jackline regs were written when polyester rope or webbing was standard and have not been up dated to reflect Dyneema. In generarl, Dyneema jacklines and attachment points need to be stronger than the reg say.
> 
> Most tethers have very little stretch. Hook one to a tree, run the other way with full slack as though you were falling, and see how much it hurts your ribs (start slow--you could break a rib). This is also why you want to keep your tethers short. You don't need to stand tall. Often the best answer is a 6-foot tether when moving, then leave that on the jackline and clip short (3' or 3' doubled = 18") while working. Tethers are not made of stretchy material (they are nylon, but a very low stretch weave).


Still not seeing how this is any different than being attached to a fixed point, which is a common practice - cockpit, working at mast, etc.

Agree about the needed strength of dyneema attachment points. Our sails and running rigging are all dyneema and kevlar and the shock loads are insane - no give at all anywhere. However, the geometry of a non-stretch jackline and the mechanics and paths of a fall would lead to some mitigation just through friction and trigonometry. 

Our tethers are elastic, so the 3' part is 1', and the 6' part is 3'. Don't know how much shock absorption that provides in practice because it doesn't take much to stretch them out, but our jacklines are 10' from the edge of the boat, so the 6' tether means we just fall down hard on the deck in the worst case, and any situation that results in a free-fall against the harness means we have more to worry about than our ribs. For us, I prefer a jackline that doesn't stretch to allow us to fall over the edge.

Mark


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## BarryL (Aug 21, 2003)

Hi,

What PFD do you currently have? Personally I prefer a PFD with integrated harness. It’s hard enough to gear up for your shift when off shore, having a PFD w harness means there is one less piece of kit to remember to put on. 

I use a spinlock tether (and PFD). I can’t comment on how well it works because I have never “used” it. I have worn it many times but never needed it.

Good luck,
Barry


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## sailpac (Jul 26, 2021)

Safety Tethers Under Scrutiny - Practical Sailor


Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.




www.practical-sailor.com


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## sailpac (Jul 26, 2021)

Time to Stop Using And Selling Tethers with Gibb-style Hooks


A recent tragedy, together with excellent work by Drew Frye over at Practical Sailor, has exposed a dangerous weakness in a snap hook used on tethers by many offshore sailors.




www.morganscloud.com


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## pnw2022 (3 mo ago)

BarryL said:


> What PFD do you currently have? Personally I prefer a PFD with integrated harness. It’s hard enough to gear up for your shift when off shore, having a PFD w harness means there is one less piece of kit to remember to put on.


1. I would say that the best PFD to have, is the one that you will wear regularly and feel naked without - i.e. it is easy and comfortable for YOU.
2. After that, I would vote for-sure yes that it has the built in harness.
3. And the tricky part, is crotch straps that are relatively easy to use and ideally store away in the vest itself while still mostly 'hooked up'.

At the risk of breaking my own rule on (3) above, I have an old Mustang (that I did pick up the crotch strip kit for later but are stored with strobes, PLB, etc. and a pain to use) and a newer Spinlock. The Spinlock for sure feels much more secure, and the crotch straps live in a pocket in the vest and are reasonably easy to put on. Meanwhile for lazy summer sailing, the Mustang is my 'go to' simply because it is so easy to slip on/off/re-adjust when I go below or am changing clothing. The Spinlock I use when the weather is stronger and what I bring when sailing on other people's boats. Possibly I just have not used to the Spinlock enough, but resizing it to fit over foul weather gear, then resizing it to fit a t-shirt, etc. has always been clunky for me to do.

Both are hydrostatic models and I have not had a problem with them auto inflating even with doused with waves on the foredeck much less standing in the rain endlessly here in the Pacific Northwest. Many years ago I did have that problem with some others but I think the technology has changed there. I guess the downside of auto-inflation is if you capsize or otherwise somehow get trapped then the inflated tubes can get in the way? Meanwhile that has always seemed like sort of an edge case and getting knocked unconscious or otherwise disoriented in a traditional overboard would be a much higher probability to occur.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

colemj said:


> Still not seeing how this is any different than being attached to a fixed point, which is a common practice - cockpit, working at mast, etc.
> 
> Agree about the needed strength of dyneema attachment points. Our sails and running rigging are all dyneema and kevlar and the shock loads are insane - no give at all anywhere. However, the geometry of a non-stretch jackline and the mechanics and paths of a fall would lead to some mitigation just through friction and trigonometry.
> 
> ...


I get you on the stretch. Obviously, a nylon rope would make a terrible jackline.

The point is about the geometry. If the jackline is straight, under some pretention, and effectively non-stretch, the jackline tension = fall impact load (0.5)/(sin(angle)). When the deflection angle is very small, this goes to infinity. The tightrope problem. A fall can pull the anchors out of the deck, even more so if there are two people on the jackline (they really are not designed for that).

The tension can be reduced in two ways. Increase the angle by not having the jackline bar tight. Have a jackline that stretches just a little bit. The advantage of a small (just 6-12") stretch to the side is both reduction in impact force (more distance to decelerate) and less jackline tension. How much stretch this require (VERY little) depends on how long the boat is. For 30- to 40-foot boats polyester webbing is about right. For larger boats Dyneema stretches enough. remember, it only takes a tiny amount of stretch to allow the jackline to deflect 6-12" to one side under a hard impact. We are NOT talking about nylon! Non-stretch polyester is the most elastic material in the discussion.

This is more complex than a post. Jackline Materials Testing

The elastic does NOT function to absorb impact, a common misconception. It takes about 2 pounds to fully extend a tenther , which means about 3' x 1#/2 = 1.5 ft-pounds of energy is absorbed. A good fall might be 600 ft-pounds, so about 0.2% of the impact energy.

---

BTW, the only documented tether failures that I know of all releat to being clipped to a hard point. The sailor was thrown, the tethers do not absorb shock well, and something broke. In one case the carabiner was cross-loaded (Spinlock Race--these have been discontinued as a result of the failure, though Spinlock never admitted anything and failed under little more than body weight. Others may have been old. But the other universal factor was that there was too much slack. Clip short whenever practical. 

The other important lesson has been that practically all of the MOB accidents happen not when moving on deck, but when nearly stationary working at a task. When moving you are paying attension to hand holds, footing, and motion. Then you get somewhere and start working with both hands and NOT watching the waves. So clip on to something solid when you stop to work. I often put a tether around the mast if that is where I'm working. If I'm at the bow I leave one tether on the jackline (which terminates 4 feet back) and double the other around the pulpit, sitting down if I can. There are multiple hard points around the cockpit, positioned to be out of the way of the ropes (jackline ends 5 feet forward of the transom; I don't fancy being towed).


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## colemj (Jul 10, 2003)

pdqaltair said:


> I get you on the stretch. Obviously, a nylon rope would make a terrible jackline.
> 
> The point is about the geometry. If the jackline is straight, under some pretention, and effectively non-stretch, the jackline tension = fall impact load (0.5)/(sin(angle)). When the deflection angle is very small, this goes to infinity. The tightrope problem. A fall can pull the anchors out of the deck, even more so if there are two people on the jackline (they really are not designed for that).
> 
> ...


OK, so the point about jackline attachment failures due to high loads I understand, but I was responding to the point made that if there is no stretch in the jackline, people would break ribs as they came up short. This is no different than attaching the harness to a hard point like you describe doing while you work. My point of geometry was about the geometry of the FALL, not the lifeline, where this is rarely a free fall through space normal to the jackline and onto the harness without some mitigating friction or angle to slow the process. Any true hard snatch (being summarily tossed into the air) would be no different than being attached to a hard point.

Jackline/attachment failure from high loads on attachment points would be situational to just what those points were. The force will mostly be shear, so this isn't difficult to design well. No different than designing a winch base, or clutches, or cleats, etc. Even high tension forces are dealt with in hardware implementation. Jacklines are just additional hardware, and it would be wrong to just wrap them around stanchions or similar.

Mark


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

colemj said:


> OK, so the point about jackline attachment failures due to high loads I understand, but I was responding to the point made that if there is no stretch in the jackline, people would break ribs as they came up short. This is no different than attaching the harness to a hard point like you describe doing while you work. My point of geometry was about the geometry of the FALL, not the lifeline, where this is rarely a free fall through space normal to the jackline and onto the harness without some mitigating friction or angle to slow the process. Any true hard snatch (being summarily tossed into the air) would be no different than being attached to a hard point.
> 
> Jackline/attachment failure from high loads on attachment points would be situational to just what those points were. The force will mostly be shear, so this isn't difficult to design well. No different than designing a winch base, or clutches, or cleats, etc. Even high tension forces are dealt with in hardware implementation. Jacklines are just additional hardware, and it would be wrong to just wrap them around stanchions or similar.
> 
> Mark


That outcome sounds extreme. As noted when I went overboard my tether was attached to the toe rail. I did not break or stress my back when thrown overboard while tethered to the toe rail. I suppose the life lines absorbed some shock.


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## Arcb (Aug 13, 2016)

My own PFD is non inflatable style and very comfortable, so I don't want to change it.

I have 3 sailboats a Sharpie, a trimaran and a beach cat, they are all wet boats not capable of self righting, so I don't use jack lines or inflatable pfds with them.

I can wear a trapeze harness with my PFD no problem, so thinking there will be some good safety harnesses that work with it. Looks like they start fairly cheap at the local chandlery.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

The vast majority of jackline catches are slides or the man leaning against the tether for support. Jacklines always stretch some, even steel. Tether stretches. Your body deforms, absorbing force. So the calculated worst case is nearly impossible to achieve. I do not know of a documented case of jackline failure. 

I engineered some stretch into my tethers and jacklines for my cat. It was easy to lose your footing and take a running stumble across the tramp of some length. It didn't even need to be bad weather, just tangled feet. A special case for cats, where a 6-foot tether just isn't not long enough, when the tramp is 15 feet wide. But a very special case. Now that I've gone to a trimaran I use conventional length tethers and conventional jacklines.

There is one point I think may be worth mentioning. The jacklines really should not go to the extreem ends of the boat, and the mooring cleats are actualy piss poor anchor points because they are the wrong place and do not allow perminantly rigged jacklines. IMO ...

Jacklines should end about 4' short of the bow (with a 6-foot tether you will still be able to stand at the bow--Pythagoras will tell you that if the chest point is 4.5" off the deck you can still stand at the bow). Then clip the short tie to the pulpit or whatever works.
Jacklines should end 4-5 feet forward of the transom. Same reasoning. But also consider how much life will suck if the boat is outboard powered and you are towed close to the transom.
They should be as far inboard as practical. If they can follow a place your feet don't go that's great. Obviously, you only use the leeward line ... practically never.
Practice. Use them in mild weather tacking, changing sails, anchoring--everything--until you have all the snags worked out. They need to work with the running and standing rigging on your boat.
Remember that most MOBS do not occur when people are moving, but when they let go to work on something. It's more important to clip on when you are at a work station than to obcess over jacklines, and when you move, do so carefully. 2-leg tethers with wide-opening, self-locking clips are great for this, which was the point of the thread. And this is why so many people like the Kong Tango clips. They work.


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## Waltthesalt (Sep 22, 2009)

In addressing jacklines I attempted to address two issues: the strain of the lines and not their not having enough flex to allow me to go over the lifelines. If the jackline is tight to reduce flex the calculated strain on the two line ends can be very high, In the Navy (submarines) we use a track on the deck. In USCG boats they use fixed attachment points. Instead of rigging conventional jacklines in heavy weather there are three permanently installed heavy duty brass tracks, folding padeye on the foredeck and a padeye by the main hatch to serve this purpose. The tracks each have a brass car and are installed with one in the cockpit and one on each side inside of the handrails. It is intended that each person have a short and long clip line on their harness. The length depends on your height. For me they are 2 1/2 ft. and 5 ft. long. The longer is used when in the cockpit clipped to the cockpit track and on the foredeck clipped to the padeye. The shorter line is used when clipped to the tracks forward of the cockpit. When working at the mast you can clip on to the mast ring. When working forward of the mast you may clip on to the folding padeye on the foredeck. The padeye by the main hatch allows clipping on before going on deck and there are two people in the cockpit.


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## bwaherne (2 mo ago)

Arcb said:


> Hi,
> 
> I will be racing with a freind off shore. He requires crew to be tethered.
> 
> ...


Apologies for possible/probable incorrect information on my part, but accuracy is important: it saves lives. I had thought a dry suit did not require a PFD, in fact a PFD might interfere with proper floatation/positioning if used concurrently. ANY AND ALL accurate information welcomed.


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## Arcb (Aug 13, 2016)

bwaherne said:


> Apologies for possible/probable incorrect information on my part, but accuracy is important: it saves lives. I had thought a dry suit did not require a PFD, in fact a PFD might interfere with proper floatation/positioning if used concurrently. ANY AND ALL accurate information welcomed.


There is no interference between the PFD and Dry suit. Been using them together for years. Dry suit keeps me dry, PFD keeps me floating


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## colemj (Jul 10, 2003)

bwaherne said:


> Apologies for possible/probable incorrect information on my part, but accuracy is important: it saves lives. I had thought a dry suit did not require a PFD, in fact a PFD might interfere with proper floatation/positioning if used concurrently. ANY AND ALL accurate information welcomed.


You might be conflating dry suit with immersion suit?

Mark


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## Mr B (Dec 23, 2011)

I single hand on a Cat, My jackline runs along the top of the boom which is firmly tied down as I dont use the main, 
I have a chest harness with a 3 foot tether, There is no stretch in it, 
It is designed to keep me on the deck even if Im dead or have broken bones, , 

A fellow yachty told me about a Cat sailing across the ocean covered in bird **** and cormorants. He sailed around the cat and found the owner over the side dead, He couldnt get back on board due to the pressure of the water, 

Another fallacy, Towing a knotted rope behind you, Drag your self back on board by climbing the rope, You wont, 
The pressure of the water at 5 knots will prevent you from getting back on board, 
Try it some time with another person on board, They can stop the boat to get you back on board, 

The moral of this story is, Dont ever go over the side, Healthy, Injured or dead, If you do, Theres a good chance it will be fatal,


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