# Drop Boards



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I want to make wooden drop boards for my companionway. It currently has plexiglass sheets that look like hell. If I make three boards out of say, solid teak, will I risk warping? I'm thinking of making three boards, each about 10-12 inches wide. Is this a feasible approach? Any thoughts are welcome.


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

You may want to look at teak plywood. Which would have a less chance of warping. It will also cost a fraction of solid teak boards.


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## Idiens (Jan 9, 2007)

Why not two pieces instead? Is the reason to have more than one to stop waves (which flood the cockpit) from getting in but still be able to step over the board to go below? Try some duct tape across to practice how high the lower one can be to still step over in and out.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

my thinkig was to make the pieces narrower to reduce the risk of warping, make them easy to store out of the way, and give me added flexibility on how high to keep the splash guard while sailing. Maybe I am over-thinking this!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

teak plywood is cheaper if you have a source for part of a sheet, but if you must order a 4x8 and have no use for the ret, it will probably be cheaper to use solid teak. A good substitute is called billy-web, which is an oily wood somewhat darker than teak, and much cheaper. Since most folks don't know about it, he old law of supply and demand makes the price lower. I have used it in place of teak many times. To minimize warp on solid panels, you could cut the wood into 2-3 inch strips and make tongue and groove joints with a router, then turn every other strip over and glue together. When a strip has a tendency to curl up, the strip next to it will have a tendency to curl down, keeping the whole assembly straight! You could also run the strips thru a planer and edge glue without the tongue and groove but it takes darn good glue and careful preparation to get glue to hold oily wood.


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

To use teak boards, you'll need to have a little more then basic woodworking skills. You can also buy solid teak pre-finished solid wood flooring which already has a finish ( on one side ) and is tongue & groove so you can piece them together.


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## Denr (Feb 7, 2001)

Warping will be an issue if they're not made correctly. I have three solid teak drop boards but the edges have T&G pieces with the grain running parrallel to the slot in the frame, the center portion of the drop board grain runs horizontal. It's a little extra work but this is the right way to do it, the use of teak plywood is a dumbass idea for this application.


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

Denr said:


> the use of teak plywood is a dumbass idea for this application.


I have no idea how old the teak plywood drop broads are on my boat, but dumbass idea or not, they are not wrapped and they keep the water out. They simply work.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I just priced 4/4 teak planking, at 16 per bf. that puts my material cost for planks at around 150. Plywood is looking better all the time! I think your right about the biscuited rails left and right, though. Thats 150 for a new biscuit joiner. This little project is gettin expensive!


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## Hawkwind (Apr 25, 2006)

Teak is expensive. Mahogany too. Also, I think Greenpeace get's mad if you buy the stuff because children are abused or habitats destroyed or something like that. I seem to remember reading about GP activists going undercover to expose mahogany loggers in Brazil a few years back. I'm not really sure about the politics of teak, but it is very expensive.

I am no expert on wood but I've cut and used a few pieces. I would just go to Home Depot and get some of that Red Oak they sell. Red oak is not hard enough for structural pieces, but this is just companionway boards, and you're replacing plexiglass. Even if they did eventually warp, you should get a few seasons and the price is small enough that you could replace them without a lot of grief. If you're unsure of your woodworking skills, I think this is a better way to go, rather than spend the big money on the "proper" wood. Don't even consider using a soft wood like pine. It will suck water like a sponge and warp. 

They also sell oak plywood though it's not marine grade. I think marine grade means that the wood is glued together in a way that inhibits water from getting between the layers. Other than that, it's just the same old wood. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm off the mark or over-simplifying.


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## mwrohde (Dec 1, 2006)

Hawkwind said:


> I would just go to Home Depot and get some of that Red Oak they sell. . .
> 
> I think marine grade means that the wood is glued together in a way that inhibits water from getting between the layers.


Red Oak is extremely porous. White oak would be a better choice. I would think Ipe would work even better, although I don't know how it compares in cost.

As to marine grade plywood - at the very least the glue used to laminate the layers together is able to withstand water immersion. Likely there's more to it than that.

Whatever you do, finish both sides the same. The boards will absorb and release moisture. If one side of the board allows moisture to pass in and out at a different rate than the other you are more likely to get warping.


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

I disagree with Denr on this one...marine plywood or Teak plywood is just fine IF you coat it with epoxy to prevent degradation. Otherwise...if you just cut and varnish...you can expect 2 years out of your new boards. Wanna know how I know this? (G)


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Amigo, solid teak boards do not warp, period. They're to full of oil. If someone out there has a warped teak board, send us a pic!


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I would use the Teak plywood. Whether you use two or three really depends on how tall the companionway is. My boat originally came with three dropboards, but when I added the bridge deck, I eliminated the bottom drop board, since the bridge deck has taken its place. Epoxy coat then use a UV-protecting finish. I think Polyureathane is good way to finish the boards, but will be a bit sacreligious to the die-hard varnishistas. Modern polyureathane coatings are very durable and can take the beating that drop boards usually take.


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## Idiens (Jan 9, 2007)

Remember to dogleg the overlapping edges to stop splash water from running down and into the cabin.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Idiens said:


> Remember to dogleg the overlapping edges to stop splash water from running down and into the cabin.


Depends on the dropboard and companionway design. On my boat, the dropboards aren't doglegged, but overlap about 1-1/2" instead. This prevents water from getting in through between the two dropboards.

If the dropboards line up butted up against each other, rather than overlapping as mine do, doglegging the edges is an excellent idea.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Freesail99 said:


> You may want to look at teak plywood. Which would have a less chance of warping. It will also cost a fraction of solid teak boards.


Made the mistake once using teak plywood...you can't sand it. If you want to do it right, use solid hard wood of choice.


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## pigslo (Nov 22, 2004)

My boat has 5 solid teak boards that are 30 years old and not warped. A chip here and there, but they do not warp. Make them from any good, strong hardwood and varnish them and they will be fine.
pigslo


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

My teak plywood boards were rotted and had to be replaced. I wanted to use solid teak but decided to make prototypes out of pine. They are now a year old with no warping. In the meantime I can use the teak money for other projects.
John


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Freesail99 said:


> I have no idea how old the teak plywood drop broads are on my boat, but dumbass idea or not, they are not wrapped and they keep the water out. They simply work.


Yea they work...but how do they LOOK?


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## Gary M (May 9, 2006)

I have 4 solid teak hatch boards that are original from 84. When I got the boat they were weatered but I sanded and varnished them and they look pretty good. They are made from 3/4" stock and are 8 inches high. Here are a couple where you can just make out the "dog leg". 

Well if my daughter was here to show me how to post a picture you could see it.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Bardo, have you considered refinishing the plexi? Either hitting it with a rotary sander (xfine grit) or having it sand blasted for a matte finish, or just taking it to a plexi shop and asking them to polish it out?


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Bardo, 

Have you given any thought to Starboad? 

The teak drop boards on my luders have cupped a little bit over the past 40 years but they still fit the slot and still have almost all the ship lap to keep the rain out. 

Cheers
Dennis


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

LazyGuy said:


> Bardo,
> 
> Have you given any thought to Starboad?
> 
> ...


I wouldn't use StarBoard for drop boards. It isn't strong enough structurally, to really work as drop boards IMHO. In heavy weather, they're probably not going to be able to stop water from entering the cockpit if the boat gets pooped.

FYI, most commerically available StarBoard drop boards are laminated designs with an aluminum or steel insert laminated between two pieces of Starboard... this is probably more work than the OP wants to deal with. Also, Starboard is fairly expensive... and the OP can probably get teak plywood for less, and make the drop boards with less work.


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## sailaway21 (Sep 4, 2006)

You can utilize polyurethane for the interior finish of the drop-boards, but using it on the exterior will create a maintenance nightmare. Polyurethane based varnish has very poor resistance to UV light. You will experience flaking, like sun-burned skin. I recommend good old spar varnish.


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

I made solid teak drop boards a year ago ( 3 panels ) 130 bucks, they look as good today as the day I made them, they have 4 coats Cetrol Marine and 5 coats Cetrol Clear

(3)11.5" panels are easier to stow with or without a hatch board bag than (2) 17" panels


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## capn_dave (Feb 17, 2000)

*Have you ever*

thought of recycled teak? I have made companion way boards out of solid teak that was salvaged from tables, doors etc. If you can find a boat yard, that has old boats they want to get rid of, or a marine junk store, you can get enough wood for less than half the price of new.

It was so profitable for me to recycle teak, I bought a wood planer (more stuff to haul around)  which has paid for itself. The inside of my boat has teak shelves and accents all over the place. I don't like to varnish so all the teak is inside. What little is outside is silver. I sure like silver teak 
Oh! by the way I have never had teak warp.

Fair Winds 
Cap'n Dave


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*Recycled teak*

capn Dave,

I like your solution, and I have been thinking about that very idea. I gotta go find some 4/4 or 3/4 teak at one of the yards, or at the marine junk shop. I'll let you know how I do!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I find it easier to remove and store one solid piece. I used oak flooring encapsulated with poly resin, then covered with spar varnish.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t239/MACHTECH1990/000_0635.jpg


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

aah poop


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Oh, I purposely stained every other board for "affect"..!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

USCGRET1990 said:


> Amigo, solid teak boards do not warp, period. They're to full of oil. If someone out there has a warped teak board, send us a pic!


Well, they do warp..I weren't paying attention to what you were talking about...ooops.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

otaga05 said:


> Sailingdog, I am interested to hear how you went about adding a bridge deck to your boat. Did you do it yourself or have it done professionally? Do you have any pictures of how it turned out?
> 
> Otaga05


I did it myself. I still have to finish painting it with topsides and non-skid paint, but it's finished other than that. I will post photos and text of how I did it later this week. I hope to have it painted this week, but the boat is up on stands and I've got the sodablasting guys coming over on Tuesday to tent the boat and they're supposed to sodablast on Wednesday, weather permitting.


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## Denr (Feb 7, 2001)

Why not make them out of "Nut N Honey" spent cereal boxes, you'll save some bucks on the material costs, they're laminated on one side so that will be the weather side, brightly colored so they'll not be lost or misplaced and not offend any tree hugger for harvesting exotic trees.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Okay, I am now confused (no mystery there). Will a 3/4 x 10 inch solid teak board, prepped and sealed with Cetol warp? Can o' Worms re-opened. I am fixing to start this project, so its cruch time (the cereal boxes are looking pretty good now too!)


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Moisture wise they shouldn't but no telling what the sun (temp. changes) will do. Hard to tell, as most folks that have warped ones didn't keep them sealed. But a grand width of 10" is probably asking for it.


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## tdw (Oct 2, 2006)

Ours are ply. Going on twenty years old, near a bit of the old wet and dry and a coat of varnish but otherwise AOK. As mentioned before the upper piece(s) need to slot into the lower to prevent ingress of water between the join. 

Another point and this really only applies to any vessel that does not have a bridge deck. The three piece setup will be good in this case if the first board becomes a de facto bridge deck. You really do need to have a way to close off the companionway up to the level of the cockpit seats in case you ship something water into the cockpit. Cockpit drains are somewhat less effective than a companionway when it comes to emptying a cockpit and water will always take the path of least resistance.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

tdw said:


> Ours are ply. Going on twenty years old, near a bit of the old wet and dry and a coat of varnish but otherwise AOK. As mentioned before the upper piece(s) need to slot into the lower to prevent ingress of water between the join.
> 
> Another point and this really only applies to any vessel that does not have a bridge deck. The three piece setup will be good in this case if the first board becomes a de facto bridge deck. You really do need to have a way to close off the companionway up to the level of the cockpit seats in case you ship something water into the cockpit. Cockpit drains are somewhat less effective than a companionway when it comes to emptying a cockpit and water will always take the path of least resistance.


This is why I added a bridge deck to my boat. The top of the bridge deck is almost exactly the height of the original bottom-most drop board. Now, I have just two drop boards.

Each dropboard has a 1/4" hole drilled into the upper port corner, so that a fast pin can be put through the companionway rails and the dropboard and hold them in place.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

sailingdog said:


> This is why I added a bridge deck to my boat. The top of the bridge deck is almost exactly the height of the original bottom-most drop board.
> And I believe we are still awaiting pics of that bridge deck....


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Haven't finished painting it yet...  Will take photos and post when it's pretty...


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