# Choosing a Domestic Sewing Machine



## Siamese (May 9, 2007)

*Using an Old Domestic Sewing Machine for Canvas Projects*

I like being able to save money by sewing my own canvas items for my boat. 
Having the right sewing machine will make your projects possible. Here's how to find a high quality, inexpensive, older domestic sewing machine capable of doing many of your onboard canvas projects.

*Why Not Just Get an Industrial Machine?*

An industrial sewing machine would certainly handle anything a sailor might throw at it. They're big, so they can handle large projects, and they have powerful table mounted motors rated around three quarter horsepower. The downside of industrial machines from the occasional user's standpoint, is that used ones are in short supply, and new or used, they're expensive.

*What About the Sailrite Machines?*

Just about every sailor has heard of the Sailrite sewing machines. They're a nice machine, and sort of a mini-industrial. For boat projects, they're close to ideal. They're a little crudely built, but they're reliable and capable. And, for the novice or occasional sewist, it's nice to have the people at Sailrite available to answer your questions.

What makes the Sailrite a good machine? While the machine mounted motor on a Sailrite has minuscule power as compared to a true industrial machine, it's geared down more than an industrial. The Sailrite sacrifices speed for power, but unless you're sewing circus tents, you probably don't care. And when you have to punch through more layers than the motor can handle, or when starting from a dead stop with heavy fabric, just turn the wheel with your hand to get it started.

The other advantage with a Sailrite machine is it's "walking foot". Sewing machines, domestic or industrial use "feed dogs" to move the fabric through the machine. They're located in the bed of the machine right below the presser foot. They have sharp teeth on them (maybe that's why they call them dogs?) to grip the fabric and pull it through the machine. Feed dogs generally provide all the feeding power required for light to medium projects, but for multiple layers of heavy canvas or vinyl, it's better to have the material pulled through the machine from below, with the feed dogs, and above, with a walking foot.

The walking foot is located beside the presser foot. In operation, the presser foot stays in constant contact with the material, holding it down, and the walking foot moves down with each stitch, grabs the fabric, and pull it through the machine, then raise off the fabric, ready for the next stitch. The foot looks like it's "walking". If you're planning to sew your own dodger, or have several projects you want to tackle, you would be well served with a walking foot machine.

The only real downside to a Sailrite machine is the price. Which isn't to say they're overpriced. It just may be more of an outlay than you want to make to try sewing your own cushions. Used Sailrites are somewhat scarce, and get snapped up quickly.

*The Low Cost Alternative*

The question is often raised as to whether a home machine is capable of sewing canvas projects.

The answer is most likely no, if you're considering one of the modern, plastic bodied machines that can be purchased for a hundred to a few hundred dollars or more. Their plastic internal parts and undersized motors are not up to the task.

The answer is an absolute yes, IF you get the right machine.

The machines I'll discuss can be bought for anywhere from $10.00 to $125.00, with $50.00 to $100.00 being sort of a sweet spot. The price is part of the appeal of these old machines. The rest of the appeal lies in using a vintage, well engineered, high quality mechanical device that functions perfectly.

I call the period from the 50's to somewhere in the early 70's the golden age of sewing machines. Machines like these, that can literally be handed down for generations, will never be made again. We're just lucky that they're plentiful and inexpensive.

*What Projects Can These Old Domestic Machines Handle?*

On the low end of their capability would be curtains in anything from light fabric to exterior Sunbrella. On the high end, a Sunbrella boom tent would be well within their ability. Expect to be able to sew Sunbrella to produce a tiller cover, hatch covers, fender covers, lee cloths, helm cover, outboard motor cover, cushions, sail covers, and more.

*What Makes the Old Machines More Capable?*

The machines that I recommend have larger, more powerful motors than today's machines. The bodies are cast iron or aluminum, and more importantly, the mechanical components are all steel, and far less likely to fail compared to modern machines with plastic gears.

*What Are the Limits of the Old Machines?*

One of the limiting factors with a home machine, no matter how powerful, is it's ability to use heavier threads. Expect to be able to easily use V69 bonded polyester thread, which is fine for the projects I've mentioned. I have experimented with the heavier V92 without much success.

Another limiting factor is stitch length. Industrial machines, including the Sailrites, can make longer stitches. For the projects I recommend using your old machine on, the shorter stitch length is adequate.

The lack of a walking foot can make it more difficult to feed multiple layers of material. I used a heavy, PVC coated canvas to make a forward hatch cover, and the feed dogs weren't up to the task of feeding this slippery material. The resulting stitches were strong, but the length wasn't uniform. The material was light gray, and the thread was white, so the seams only look bad on close inspection. Next time, I'll just use Sunbrella or a similar, non-slippery fabric.

Domestic machines are smaller than industrial machines, making it difficult or impossible to sew large projects like boat covers.

Sails are also outside of the capability of these machines.

*Walking Foot for Your Domestic Machine*

While they're not the equivalent of a true walking foot machine, for around $20.00 or so, you can buy an accessory walking foot for a domestic machine, which will extend it's capabilities.

*Sewing difficult projects without a true walking foot*

A walking foot serves the purpose of keeping layers of fabric from sliding apart from each other, and ensures a smooth feed. For those of us not engaged in high production canvas work where speed is of the essence, there's a good work-around.

Double sided tape, available from Sailrite, is an excellent way to hold a seam together so you can more easily manage it as you feed it through the machine.

Also, pinning pieces together as you would if you were sewing a garment eliminates shifting of the pieces.

I'll be doing a new sail cover this winter, and no doubt tape and pins will be on hand to get me through the project.

*I Should Have Bought One of These a Long Time Ago*

I had always heard that the old, all metal machines were reliable and good for canvas work, but I always figured I'd end up with one that was on its last legs, and might prove unsuitable for what I wanted to do. I didn't want to buy a project.

I had no idea which of them were suitable, and had no interest in becoming an expert on them.

In the back of my mind was the fear that they might be finicky, and possibly not reliable. And what if something breaks?

Also, I had no idea what sort of needles the machine might use. What if I bought a machine that used some odd, hard to get size? And bobbins, and bobbin holders? Would an older machine use some sort of rare proprietary parts that would be difficult and expensive to replace? Who needs all that hassle?

The answer is, the old machines pretty much all use the same needles, the same bobbins, and bobbin holders and so on. In other words the items that one occasionally replaces or purchases on a regular basis (like needles) are standard items available online or from your local sewing store, or Walmart. And, of course, online. The same standard parts have been in use for decades!

I even wondered if the older machines would make as good a stitch as the new ones. Surely, there's been progress over the decades, right? Wrong again. The old machines produce beautiful, strong stitches.

I got started with these machines when I saw an ad on Craigslist for an old machine that had been "gone through" according to the seller. Apparently, as I gleaned from the ad, the seller had a large collection of old machines, and routinely bought, refurbished, and sold machines on Craig's. This seller was a good communicator and her ad convinced me that the old machine she was selling would bring me happiness. And, for $75.00, I figured it was worth a shot.

And, it was. The machine was a Stitch Queen, from Japan, and manufactured about 1950. It looks like an old Singer, but instead of Singer black, it's baby blue, with a slight metallic luster, gold pin-striping, and nickel plated parts. Yes, she's about sixty-five years old, but you can barely tell her from new, and she functions perfectly. So, where am I going to get parts? Remember, she uses the same standard stuff as every other sewing machine. And the mechanical components inside? They're not going to break. Sure, it needs to be maintained, and I'll talk about that later. Bottom line, with just sewing machine oil, and the occasional simple adjustment, this sixty-five year old machine has another fifty years of use left in it. She's easy to use, as beautiful as a vintage car, and produces high quality straight stitches in forward and reverse. Her motor is externally mounted and produces all its rated power, and it's brushes are replaceable and available when they wear out. Worst case scenario, a new motor could be bolted on, but they seldom fail.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55714&stc=1&d=1441808951

*The Post WWII Japanese Sewing Machines*
Why is the Stitch Queen and others like her still a viable machine? Let's start with where she came from. Japan.

Before World War II, the Japanese were masters at manufacturing. After the war, much of the expertise remained, and the ambition was there, but the infrastructure was devastated. They had to rebuild one step at a time, and sewing machines were a good place to start.

The patent on the venerable Singer model 15-91 had expired, and producing clones of the Singer was within their capability. The United States, fearing the Japanese would turn to Communism, was anxious to do what it could to help them get on their financial feet, and provided loans and assistance to get them started.

Information is sketchy as to how many companies were involved in producing the clones, but estimates are around fifteen companies, producing them under thousands of different brand names. Stitch Queen, General, House Keeper, Remington, Visetti, and on and on. Many were badged for American companies like Montgomery Wards, and Younkers, while many others simply sported names that the manufacturers hoped would resonate with American consumers.

The quality of the machines was on a par with or superior to the Singers. The paint and plating on my sixty-five year old machine is near perfect. The body is cast iron, and the internal parts are steel. There is nothing cheap about this machine or the other clones. They were built by serious people who wanted to make a superior product.

They also had a habit of using bigger motors than the Americans. Most of these machines have 1.0 amp motors, although 1.2 amp and 1.3 amp are common. For our purposes, a 1.0 amp motor is plenty, and will allow you to sew through at least six layers of Sunbrella.

One More Thing&#8230;the Styling!

Do an online search for "Singer 15 Clones", and see for yourself the incredible variety of colors and imaginative design that went into these machines. I can only assume that with Singer and the European manufacturers enjoying the bulk of U.S. sales, that the Japanese saw styling as a way to promote their high quality machines. Immediately after WWII, the machines still closely resembled the Singers they had copied, but with beautiful pastel paint-jobs, and two-tone color schemes. By the late fifties, their machines had adopted styling cues from the automotive industry.

Some of the designs are tasteful and subtle, while others look like the dashboard of a '59 Cadillac. Whether the styling is subtle or outlandish, the utility and craftsmanship are consistent, so take your time and find the machine that tickles your fancy.

*Which Machine Should You Buy?*

I'm partial to the Japanese machines. For the practical reasons I mentioned already, and because they made them so pretty. And, because the Japanese machines are universally good machines for light canvas work.

Everybody knows Singer, and some of the Singers are good choices. You can get a nice Singer that's close to a hundred years old and still usable. My personal preference is for the post WWII machines. A good example would be a Singer 401. I bought one recently, just because it's what my mom had when I was a kid. Aluminum body, with straight stitch, zig-zag, and a variety of decorative stitches using "cams". The 401 is a high quality machine, with a few interesting quirks and design features, but the motor is only .72 amps. Yes, it'll go through six layers of Sunbrella, but not a easily as my Stitch Queen. The Singers are good, but they also made some models that are dogs. One problem with the Singers is that everybody knows them, and that drives up the prices.

Which Japanese machines are good? Well, I have yet to run across a bad one. I'll take just about any Japanese machine from the 50's, 60', and into the early 70's. Look for anything with an all metal body. If the body is all metal, so are the mechanicals inside. Most will have a cast iron body. You'll know it's cast iron when you pick it up. Weighs about 35 pounds. An aluminum bodied machine will be a little under 20 pounds.

Some brands to look for are Sewmore, Morse (made by Toyota), New Home (by Janome), White (not all are from Japan, check the label), Brother (check the label for Japan), Stitch Matic, Emdeko, Visetti, Dressmaker, and on and on.

Look for a machine that's cosmetically in good to excellent condition. Why not? There are plenty of them out there. No reason to get one that's in poor condition. I recently bought (in 2015) a 1960 New Home machine for $75.00 that cannot be told from new. Green and cream two-tone with zig-zag. Just needed to be oiled. Isn't she pretty?

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55722&stc=1&d=1441809060

*Really? Any All Metal Japanese Sewing Machine?*

Yes, really. I was just now browsing through Craigslist to see what's new on the market. I found several, including a "Western" straight stitch from Japan, that appeared to be one of the early clones from the 1950's. I'd never heard of the Western brand, but I'd buy the machine in a heartbeat.

*Where to Find a Good Machine*

Craigslist is probably the best place to find a machine. Some are priced properly, and some are priced sky high. Just like sailboat sellers, some people are not realistic. Machines on Ebay tend to be priced higher thanks to their wider market, plus you have to ship a 35 pound piece of metal. You'll find plenty of nice Japanese machines within 50 miles of your home.

There may be someone in your area who buys and sells old machines and will advertise them as "gone through" or refurbished and may be a good source for your first machine. They may be an enthusiast who can demonstrate the machine for you, let you sew with it, and show you a little about taking care of it. This way, you know from the start that the machine is ready for your project. That's how I got my first machine, and soon I was searching Craig's for machines that were "mom's machine, but we don't use it anymore and we just bought a new, computerized machine". I buy these for twenty to seventy-five dollars, oil them, adjust them a little, and end up with a machine that will last another fifty years. The plastic machine they bought will hit the trash long before that.

Use Bing or Google and search for the Japanese Singer Clones. Look at the pictures, and you'll quickly be able to identify them when you start looking on Craig's. Usually, the sellers know nothing about the machine, because it was stored away somewhere by their mom, and hasn't been used in twenty years. Ask them to find the label that says where it's made. You want Japan. No China, Taiwan, etc.. Get the brand, and a model number. Most of them have the model number on a little plate on the bottom edge of the machine. If the seller can't see it, they may need to lift it out of it's case or cabinet to get a look at it. Then just Bing it, and you'll likely come up with a little useful info on it. Search on Youtube and you might see a review.

The typical seller doesn't know if the machine works. It's up to you to figure out if it's a good buy. I'll discuss that later.

*Just a Side Note*

A lot of sellers refer to these older machines as "industrial machines" or "industrial strength". That's dishonest, and I'd be cautious with any seller who makes that misleading claim. These machines were made for domestic use. They just happen to be made much better than today's machines.

*The Kenmores&#8230;.your shortcut to a great machine?*

If you want to buy an excellent machine, without doing any homework, just buy a Kenmore. Make sure it's made in Japan, and make sure it's one of their "158" series machines. The styling on the Kenmores may be a little boring, but you won't find a better machine.

The 158 series machines came in many variations over the years and were labeled as 158.16520, 158.17300, etc.. Often, the seller will refer to a 158.17300 as simply a 1730, etc., so be sure to contact them and inquire.

The 158's from the mid to later 1960's often used 1.2 amp externally mounted motors. Later, they moved the motors inside the housing, and used a double pulley system much like the Sailrite machines to gear them down for more power. Very nice. Most of these machines have 1.0 amp motors. I recently bought a 158 series with a 1.2 amp motor and a double pulley system. Here she is:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55730&stc=1&d=1441809165

The later 158's are aluminum bodied. They're all metal inside, but tend to have plastic trim, plastic handwheels, and the cover over the double pulley system is plastic. These plastic exterior parts do not detract from the performance and reliability of these machines.

I don't have enough experience with the pre-Japan Kenmores, or with their 148 series Japanese machines to give a recommendation on them.

*What About American and European Sewing Machines?*

There are many all metal european machines from the same era that will be the equal of the Japanese machines for your marine canvas projects. I'm avoiding them in this article in the interest of simplification. Many of the machines from Singer, Pfaff, and Husqvarna, and Necchi, or Elna could be excellent choices, but they tend to be more expensive, and there are many that I would avoid. By steering you towards the Japanese machines, I keep it simple, and there is no shortage of these machines from which to choose.

*How to "Survey" a Classic Sewing Machine*

You'll need to evaluate the machine once you find it. If you know how to sew, this will be easier. If you don't, it would be nice to bring someone who does. Cosmetics are easy enough. You ought to be able to find a shiny machine with just a few, or maybe even no scratches or blemishes.

To check the mechanicals, try to gently rotate the handwheel. If it turns, that's a bonus. If it turns easily, that's a huge bonus. If it doesn't turn, most likely the machine needs to be cleaned and oiled, or thread is tangled up in the bobbin area. If you're a newbie, you should restrict your purchase to a machine that turns.

I recently bought a 1954 Singer 401 from the daughter of the original owner. It didn't turn, but there wasn't a scratch on it, so I took the plunge. On the trip home, I carefully wiggled the hand wheel a little and it broke free. At home, it received cleaning and oiling and ran like new.

Take a medium size slot screwdriver with you. Any of the machines that have zig-zag stitch capability will have a removable metal top cover that removes with just a couple screws. Careful not to scratch it, okay? Pop the top and you can take a look at the mechanicals. See if there's anything obviously wrong. Unless you have some experience, there's no reason to buy one that doesn't look clean and nice inside.

Note: Many of the Kenmore machines don't have screws holding the top on. They're held on by spring hardware, so just firmly grip the top panel and carefully lift it up and off the body of the machine.

While you're looking inside, look for any plastic parts. They're usually white. And they're often broken. If it has plastic gears, don't buy it.

Inspect the bottom of the machine. If it's mounted in a case, remove the case to get a clear look at the mechanical components underneath. If it's in a cabinet, it's probably mounted on hinges that will allow you to rotate it backward for access to the bottom. Look for dirt, corrosion, and missing parts. There's no reason to buy a machine that doesn't look reasonably clean and corrosion free, unless you have more experience and the machine is free.

This isn't like surveying a sailboat. Five or ten minutes and you'll either buy it or walk away. If in doubt, walk. There are plenty more on Craigslist.

*Features / What to Look For*

All you really need is a machine that does straight stitch. 
The next feature to possibly look for is zig-zag. If all you do is Sunbrella projects, like covers and so on, you'll never need zig-zag, but it's nice if you're working with materials that have some stretch to them (like if you want to sew a fleece pullover). Of course, zig-zag is essential for sewing sails, but these domestic machines aren't up to that sort of duty.

Another feature, found on some zig-zag machines is L-M-R needle placement, or the ability to shift the needle slightly to the left, right, or leave it in the middle of the presser foot. If you know this is a feature you want, get it. If not, don't worry about it. You won't need it for your boat projects.

Some of the machines also use "cams". A cam is a plastic disk that snaps into a receiver in the top of the machine, and allows the machine to produce decorative stitches. Certainly not necessary for your boat projects, but who knows. You might make a set of Sunbrella curtains and use a cam that produces a nice embroidery pattern that will decorate the edge of your blue curtains with a contrasting white thread. Machines that use cams typically come with a set of 12 to 24 of them.

Some machines have the ability to assist in making button holes. This feature sometimes requires external attachments to accomplish this task.

That's about it for features on these vintage machines. These machines are a study in ingenuity and engineering, but that's about as far as they got with purely mechanical means. Today's sewing machines manage all their wizardry with computer chips and software.

*Sewing Tables*

Many of the machines on Craigslist come with a table. Usually, the table is original to the machine, and has been chewed on by the family pet at some time but is fully functional. Most tables have a cutout in the top that the machine fits in. They allow the machine to swing down into the table for storage, and allow the machine to be rotated back to expose the bottom for service. If a table is included, that's nice, but I wouldn't pass up a good machine for the lack of one.

Any of the machines can be set on a tabletop and used, although they can be a little unstable and may slide around when you push the reverse button. My favorite sewing table is an inexpensive office table/desk that I modified to accommodate a sewing machine. A quick study of the bottom of my sewing machine and a little jig-saw work allowed it to sit into the table. Works fine, and looks better in my office/sewing room than a beat up old table.

If you find a machine that's mounted in a table, you'll want to separate it from the table for transport. Unplug any wires that may impede separation. There will be two hinges that attach to the back of the machine's base. Each hinge has a slot head screw that you can loosen to separate the machine from the hinge. Have someone rotate the machine backward so you can look under it, and locate those screws, loosen them a few turns, and easily pull the machine away from the table.

*What About a Manual?*

If you're lucky, the machine you buy will have it's original manual. If it's gone, you might be able to do a search online, and for ten dollars or so, download a PDF of the original. Now that I've been buying, fixing, and selling (and sometimes keeping!) for a year or so now, I've found I seldom have need for a manual anymore. One of my Kenmores had a feature I couldn't figure out, but it's easy to find manuals for Kenmores. Don't sweat it if you can't find a manual; these are simple machines. There are forums where nice people will help you.

*How Do I Maintain My Classic?*

These old machines just need a little love. And love comes in a little bottle labeled, "sewing machine oil".

You can find plenty of wrong information on sewing forums with regard to oil. No, WD-40 isn't a good lightweight oil for sewing machines. On one forum someone was an advocate of using olive oil! Don't use 3 in 1 oil, either, as it's notorious for gumming up sewing machines after they sit for a while.

Sailrite will sell you a bottle of the right stuff with a nice adjustable tube that will get into tricky places. Otherwise, you can get it at Walmart or elsewhere. Even sewing machine oil will tend to get sticky and varnish-like when a machine is stored for longer periods, and is one of the reasons older machines may not turn.

Oil frequently. Each time you get your machine out of the closet for a new project, give it an oiling. The new machines don't require as much oiling. When they quit working, you take them in for repair at considerable expense, or just throw them away. Or put them on Ebay.

Some machines will require grease in addition to oil. If you look inside the machine, and it has gears with teeth, you need to use grease. Many of the zig-zag machines will have gears that need grease, and all of the machines that use cams will have gears to grease. I like the Tri-Flow synthetic grease you can find online. Expensive, but works great and you'll use very little. Don't use grease anywhere but on the gears. Singer makes a less expensive grease, and basic grease for wheel bearings is okay. Don't use lithium grease.

The winch grease you may already have would be fine on the gears.

When I bring home a new-to-me old machine, I put it on the kitchen table and work on it for two or three hours one night, and do the same for a second night. And maybe a third. That may sound tedious, but these old machines are engineered to be be easily worked on, and I find it enjoyable to breathe new life into them. And, it's a great way to get to know the machine.

*Special Tools?*

Nope. Just about everything that needs to be removed or tweaked can be done with a slot screwdriver. Ideally, you'll want hollow ground screwdrivers instead of the more common wedge shaped variety. They'll fit the screws much better. Get a set of bits with a universal handle for not much money. Other than that, maybe a couple of wrenches you already have in your toolbox. You'll discover that these machines, unlike so many of the things on your sailboat, were engineered to be easy to work on. I find it MUCH easier than working on a diesel or just about anything else on my boat.

*Okay Then, How Do I Oil It?*

You'll find enough information online to get you through the oiling process, but they key thing is, if it moves, oil it.

Youtube is a good source, too. I can't point you to the definitive how-to, because at this time, I don't think there is one.

When I'm doing a thorough oiling, I like to remove the belt from the handwheel and then remove the handwheel and clean and lube it's bearing surfaces. It's pretty simple, and only requires a couple screwdrivers. You'll find more online for this.

Every sewing machine has a cover over it's left side (as you sit facing the machine). Remove that cover, or if it's on a hinge, just swing it open. You'll see several moving parts that need to be oiled. Turning the hand wheel on the right side of the machine will cause the parts to move, making it obvious what needs to be oiled. Sparingly!

Zig-zag machines have removable covers on the top. They're usually removed with a couple screws, or may simply snap off if no screws are visible. Note that some removable tops have holes in them that will funnel a drop of oil to the critical components. That's nice, but removing the cover to get to ALL the points is better. Under the cover, you'll find plenty of parts that move. Anywhere metal parts meet and move, apply oil. You'll see metal arms that pivot on pins, and you'll notice that each has a tiny hole where you can put a drop of oil. If you don't find a tiny hole, put the oil in the most logical place. There isn't much you need to take apart aside from a couple covers. There are more moving parts under the machine that need to be oiled. Be a detective. You'll figure out what the various parts do. And if you don't, oil them anyway.

A gooseneck lamp of some sort to light up the interior areas is indispensable. Paper towels and Q-Tips work well for cleaning, and WD-40 is good as a cleaner/solvent. You may encounter frozen mechanisms where PB Blaster will free things up. I've used WD-40 and a little heat from a propane torch to get things moving, followed by liberal sewing machine oil. Wipe off the excess to avoid fling. Sewing machines don't have tight tolerances, so it just takes a little persistence to get them moving freely again.

As you work your way through the various oiling points on your machine, keep turning the main shaft so all the parts move and the oil is able to work into the right places. You'll notice that as you keep cleaning, oiling, and turning, it will become easier and easier to turn, until you'll be amazed at how little effort it takes to move all those parts.

If it's a zig-zag machine, don't forget to set the selector lever for various stitch widths and watch to see which parts move so you can oil them.

All knobs, levers, etc., should be lightly oiled for free movement. This will make the machine work like new, last longer, and be a pleasure to use.

Tip: Standard sewing machine oil has always been the best oil to use. As I mentioned before, if the machine is stored away for a long time, it can become varnish-like and gum up your machine. I got a tip online for using Mobil 1, 0 - 20 viscosity synthetic oil motor oil. I've used it on a few machines now, and find that it performs very well. I use it in the same long spout bottle that my sewing machine oil came in. The possible advantage of the Mobil 1 is that it won't become varnish-like. Time will tell, but it sounds reasonable to me.

If you're used to maintaing a sailboat, you'll find these classic machines easy to maintain. Oil, a few simple tools, and a little patience will keep them running like new.

Edited portion follows:
*Pictures, or it didn't happen!*

Here's a link to my first old machine, the 1950 Stitch Queen. See how she runs through six layers of Sunbrella without a whimper.


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

My experience is that any work with Sunbrella (I have a lot of covers) is really a struggle without a walking foot. As soon as you get to more than a couple of layers, you start to struggle without. The biggest enemy is that binding material. Even the Sailrite can struggle with that stuff, any kind of domestic machine without a walking foot, forget it.


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## Siamese (May 9, 2007)

MarkSF said:


> My experience is that any work with Sunbrella (I have a lot of covers) is really a struggle without a walking foot. As soon as you get to more than a couple of layers, you start to struggle without. The biggest enemy is that binding material. Even the Sailrite can struggle with that stuff, any kind of domestic machine without a walking foot, forget it.


That's too bad you had that experience. I used to have a Consew 206 RB6 industrial machine with a walking foot, and it could do ANYTHING.

But, I used my all-metal domestic machines to easily make a Sunbrella helm cover, forward hatch rain cover, and a boom tent for my Catalina 28. These tasks were well within their capability.

I would agree that as you do bulkier, more complex projects like dodgers, that you'll exceed their capability.


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## MikeOReilly (Apr 12, 2010)

Interesting analysis Siamese. I will say I tried to make an old all-metal Japanese machine work for our cruising needs. After running it through a number of tests I concluded it would not be worth carrying it with me on board. It worked great for light material, but my main need is sail and sunbrella repair. I found my good old Japanese machine could not consistently manage sunbrella, nor a few layers of sailcloth. And the lack of good walking foot just made the whole project too difficult for this neophyte sewer.

Probably if I was a more skilled sewer I could make it work, but I found it became an exercise in frustration. Compared to a Sailrite-type machine (there are others, not just Sailrite), I just found it way too difficult to actually do anything.


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

I also used a domestic machine to make some covers. The trouble is, I had to make too many compromises. Not as many layers as I wanted, couldn't use the strong binding, no leather or vinyl. Compared to the commercial grade covers that the boat already has, which are very sturdy, the ones I made are not very robust. The domestic machine struggled to even repair the commercial covers.

Then I bit the bullet, so to speak, and bought the LSZ-1. Since then I've been re-doing some of the repairs, and will probably re-make some of the covers I made.


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## glymroff (Apr 2, 2009)

just 2cts here... i bought my gal a sailrite lz1 for a present a couple of years ago... she went thru all manuals videos etc. but, for sure w/ in a short period of time on any project (cushions, sail patches, canvas stuff), she would start swearing at the machine as it would go out of whack and need adjusting.

finally while we were stuck in the DR for engine issues, we met another couple who had a Sailrite, and together they worked thru several issues w/ the machine(s), that's right their machine had similar issues. We were lucky enough to find a guy that was a commercial canvas guy, who had several of these machines. He informed us that you had to constantly adjust the machine when doing heavy work, otherwise it would slowly go out of whack.

Long story short, a couple of weeks later we sold the machine to a guy in PR who owned a fabric store. We bought a commercial/professional grade Singer that happened to be on sale at Walmart!!! They just wanted it off the shelf. It came w/ a walking foot as well. My gal LOVES it!!! it is easy to use, lighter, 4times cheaper, and so far has done everything we need it to, including canvas.

My point here is not to bash Sailrite. We did meet another guy who loved his, and he did quite a bit of work for himself and other boat buddies. my (our) point is that you don't necessarily have to go w/ an old, or expensive machine. Heck if ours breaks in a year I won't mind dishing out the money for another one. I can do that 4 times over a decade probably and have two things. HAPPY sailing gal, and cool stuff on the boat!


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

"it would go out of whack and need adjusting." What adjustment went out of whack?

I've just finished making an entire set of salon and V berth cushions, and have also made several Sunbrella covers and done numerous repairs. The only thing I've had to adjust is the thread tension, and that is only when I switch between V-69 and V-92 thread. I could have got away without adjusting, but wanted a perfectly symmetrical stitch (between above and below the cloth). It should take about a minute to adjust the thread tension.

The only other adjustment I know of, is the timing. There is no way that should change, unless you really are abusing the machine. I managed to hit a ***********-on with the needle. I swear the entire machine leaped 6 inches off the table. Thought I'd done some damage, but no adjustment was needed.

The one explanation I can think of, is use of Teflon / Tenara thread. Everyone reports problems with getting the right tension with it. It even says as much in the manual! Don't use it if you don't have to.


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## Missingyou (Aug 16, 2013)

I have a Juki 563 Walking Foot with Reverse. 1980's? This is a beast with a large format bobbin, and I bought it used at a very reasonable $500. Would I do it again? Probably not, these old machines are all very well used and you can't guarantee their condition. I would have likely just spent the money on a newer one such as the Consew 206 RB6, as Siamese said above. $1200 with table?? I learned to sew canvas on the Consew with Tenara Thread and it was fine. Why would I buy something new made in China versus my older Japanese Tank? I think it has to do with the amount of wear my machine has and this translates into fewer failed stitches. Mine will sew well for awhile then start acting up. It can be aggravating. I'm still relatively new at this but I remember the Consew just worked.

As for thread? You should only be using Tenara in my opinion. Why bother with Polyester unless it is absolutely going to stay inside. The UV will destroy it and you will be restitching in 5-7 years. I'm not so sure about the tension for Tenara but for me it has been more about the needle. I currently use a Groz-Beckert MR Longarm Needle in a 16. I may even try to go to a 14. The Tenara has different friction characteristics than Polyester so needle size seems more critical. In fact the thread I am using is a Tenara knockoff called Solar Thread. I'm not happy with it, it's cheaper but it unravels easier. Don't do it, buy the Gortex Tenara.


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## guitarguy56 (Oct 10, 2012)

I have the White and Necchi (Japanese) sewing machines... both are solid all metal (no plastic gears) and very rugged... sewed all sorts of auto/marine upholstery (leather and ultraleather), repaired sails, you name it... the best machines so far I have bought... many machines I bought did not hold up and the poor nylon gears/construction just stripped causing the machine to given away or tossed.


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

Mostly utter twaddle. We bough a stock standard Singer sewing machine in Mexico in 2000, it sewed vast quantities of sunbrella and many sail repairs up till 2012. we just bought another, no name, non brand, made in China, probably a POS for 150 bucks...The workout it's been given over the last four months would kill most of the machines mentioned above. If it dies tomorrow, I'd buy another.


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## Siamese (May 9, 2007)

Opinions certainly vary with regard to the capabilities of the old, all metal machines. They can't do the work of a true industrial machine, but for the low purchase price and reliability, it's worth considering the work the _can_ do.

For those who doubt their ability to sew Sunbrella, here's an example of one of my machines having a go at some Sunbrella.






note: I will update the original post with this link.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

111W-155 

/thread.


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## RocketScience (Sep 8, 2008)

Great write-up Siamese, thanks for sharing.



MarkSF said:


> My experience is that any work with Sunbrella (I have a lot of covers) is really a struggle without a walking foot. As soon as you get to more than a couple of layers, you start to struggle without. *The biggest enemy is that binding material. Even the Sailrite can struggle with that stuff, any kind of domestic machine without a walking foot, forget it*.


I've thrown everything at my Pfaff 230, including leather and StrataGlass .060. Here's an identical model sewing *14 layers of canvas binding*. For not being a walking foot model, the Pfaff 230 is an incredible workhorse.


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## Siamese (May 9, 2007)

You bet, the Pfaffs are great machines. I'd like to add one to my modest collection if I can snag one for the right price and would not hesitate to recommend one to anyone doing projects like I described in my post. Probably the only downside to the Pfaff is the price they tend to command in the marketplace. 

Hope I didn't "dis" the Pfaff at all in my writeup. 'Just keeping it simple and inexpensive for those considering an older machine.


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## RocketScience (Sep 8, 2008)

Siamese said:


> ..Hope I didn't "dis" the Pfaff at all in my writeup. 'Just keeping it simple and inexpensive for those considering an older machine.


Nah. But you're right, the Pfaffs tend to fetch a bit more. If you have a bit of patients, you can find them on Craiglist for >$200. I picked mine up for $125.


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## DonScribner (Jan 9, 2011)

Way too many words . . . sorry. I fell asleep after the part about . . . well, I forget, I was asleep. But to add my 3 cents. We just completed a mainsail kit from Sailrite. Our circa 1980 Singer did wonders, sewing through up to 10 layers of crisp, new Dacron with basting tape or industrial adhesives (at clew, tack & reef points) and only started complaining at 8. Plus it has a 4-point zigzag stitch for added mojo. One can be picked up for probably $50.


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## Sewvintage (Oct 20, 2017)

Curious where you are located, Siamese. Your article really sounds like your might have bought your machine from me. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI.

Cheryl Reed


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## Siamese (May 9, 2007)

Sewvintage said:


> Curious where you are located, Siamese. Your article really sounds like your might have bought your machine from me. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI.
> 
> Cheryl Reed


Muskegon. Yes, I got the Stitch Queen from you. First I got from you was a Pfaff 18, which I sold, but I still have the Stitch Queen. Bought, refurbed, and sold many Singer 401's, 500's, 201's, etc., but now pretty much just Japanese machines. Recently got a Sewmor, badged as a Bel Air that's a Model 66 clone. Should be nice when it's done. I don't buy and sell on purpose, just look for machines to keep and then find myself with too many. I keep it down to about eight machines. I use them all, but if I have a "go to" machine it's my Kenmore 158.1802. Great machine. You had told me about Kenmore's, and I didn't really get it until I refurbed one and used it. Sears wasn't messing around.


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## JoCoSailor (Dec 7, 2015)

Siamese, First let me say Thanks! for starting this thread. It got me to try sewing and I'm enjoying. I bought the first Kenmore 158 I found on CL. It's a 12272. It seems to sew ok, but it has some issues with the bobbin. The hook moves out of place when putting the bobbin in(I have to take it apart and put it back together), then it has a hard time picking up the bobbin thread. So I've found some others for sale cheap. Are worth checking out?

Wards Signature model UHT J276D.

Singer model 774. Comes with carry bag and manuals.

Singer model 237 with a nice cabinet. The holder for the thread is missing and the light isn't working. May just be the bulb.

Kenmore model 158.17570 with cabinet. Cabinet has a knee switch instead of a foot switch. It also comes with an Accessories, Buttonholer and Pattern Cams kit, instructions manual and additional buttonholer. 

TIA,
Lew


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## Lazerbrains (Oct 25, 2015)

Lew, sounds like you simply need to replace the hook in your machine. They are a normal wear item and are replaceable.


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## dadio917 (Apr 4, 2011)

we bought a sailrite and its paid for itself with various canvas projects. but it was expensive and is HEAVY! a tough old machine might do just as good a job. but then my wife is the operator and she loves it! Has her old Viking for lighter weight stuff.


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## JoCoSailor (Dec 7, 2015)

Lazerbrains said:


> Lew, sounds like you simply need to replace the hook in your machine. They are a normal wear item and are replaceable.


Thanks! I asked a local sew shop about the bobbin problem and was told sewing machines will only last for "so long". I see they cost a few bucks more than those used machines are going for. (of course, they could need some parts too). but I still wonder if one of those would be a better machine to put money than mine.


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## JoCoSailor (Dec 7, 2015)

dadio917 said:


> we bought a sailrite and its paid for itself with various canvas projects. but it was expensive and is HEAVY! a tough old machine might do just as good a job. but then my wife is the operator and she loves it! Has her old Viking for lighter weight stuff.


Thanks!, Yeah a sailrite is on the radar, but I going do more sewing (and research) before I look at spending that kind of $$


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## SLI (Aug 11, 2017)

Siamese said:


> You bet, the Pfaffs are great machines. I'd like to add one to my modest collection if I can snag one for the right price and would not hesitate to recommend one to anyone doing projects like I described in my post. Probably the only downside to the Pfaff is the price they tend to command in the marketplace.
> 
> Hope I didn't "dis" the Pfaff at all in my writeup. 'Just keeping it simple and inexpensive for those considering an older machine.


I am trying to re-stitch my dinghy cover, made of sunbrela, some multi-layer area. I have an old Singer 201 belt drive, not working when more than 2 layers, also it only takes the smaller home thread.

I started looking at the local small-adds for another machine. I would also like it to be able to repair my dodger, going through the clear vinyl and 2 layers of sunbrella. Would also be nice if it is portable...and cheap !

Here is what I have found: (price in cdn $)
1- PFAFF 130, asking $95, not portable.
2- Brother Heavy Duty, portable, asking $200
3- Morse portable, asking $50
4- White stretch stitches, portable, $95
5- Very vintage 'manual' Seamstress, portable, $200

So what do you think?


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## Skipper Jer (Aug 26, 2008)

SLI said:


> I am trying to re-stitch my dinghy cover, made of sunbrela, some multi-layer area. I have an old Singer 201 belt drive, not working when more than 2 layers, also it only takes the smaller home thread.
> 
> I started looking at the local small-adds for another machine. I would also like it to be able to repair my dodger, going through the clear vinyl and 2 layers of sunbrella. Would also be nice if it is portable...and cheap !
> 
> ...


Take along a sample of what you intend to sew. Also bring along a needle, bobbin and thread.Try the machine.


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## H2814D (Feb 16, 2012)

I know this thread is pretty old, but there are recent additions, so here is mine.

I have an old boat (79 Islander Bahama 30) that needed canvas work and the canvas on the boat was in rapid deterioration, so I thought I would give it a try, since sewing seemed to be fairly simple. I found a "heavy duty sewing machine" on Craigslist and gave it a try. The machine I found was a Singer 4432. It was used, but looked new, and it was only $45. You can find the same model on the popular shopping site named after the big women. 

So I started out with the simple things; a couple winch covers, a couple rail covers, the wheel cover, and then the companionway cover. I learned as I went and used the old canvas for patterning the new. 

We have an upholstery shop here with all kinds of fabric and accessories, so I got the Sunbrella and heavy duty weather resistant thread from them initially. I later found that Sailrite has better pricing, but I bought enough to get the easier things done first. I knew I would eventually do the sail cover. There are two pics of the sail cover. In one it is open and unfinished layed out in a 14 foot long room, so you can get a feel for the actual cover length and then the other is the cover on the boat. The lighter blue was rubber anti-chafing material on the underside of the cover. The posting won't let me attach the wheel cover or the winch covers. I guess I have exceeded my limit.

Because the sewing machine did not have a "walking foot," I found one for that machine and installed it. It was only about $20. It is necessary and worked great for several layers of Sunbrella fabric, sometimes up to 5 layers. I also had the heavier canvas needles to help with going through the fabric. 

Obviously, just like every thing else we do ourselves, by the time you get to the finished product, you are an expert and you then find out you wish you had known some stuff earlier. Anyway, the machine I bought worked just fine. It was inexpensive. I learned a lot along the way, and I would use it again. You really should decide if you have the patience for this kind of project before spending a lot of money on what could turn out to be simply frustration, because I can see where that could happen as well.


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## SLI (Aug 11, 2017)

Update:
re-oiled the old singer 201, it is a bit better, but still not stong enough. Now I need to try different needles, may make a difference.

In my list, the Brother is a scam I think. I can't fint information on Brother ''heavy duty'', I think it was stamp on by a previous owner. And by the picture it is missing some parts.

The PFAFF 130, is 2 hours away, no ready to drive that distance yet.

I am still looking


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## ottos (Aug 12, 2008)

Part of the value of the SailRite is the telephone support they give you. We bought one last fall, and their telephone support was invaluable. While no expert with sewing machines, my wife is no novice. Without their help, the project she was doing would have taken much longer.


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## SLI (Aug 11, 2017)

Update:

I did get a needle for denim and canvas. It is a bit better, but still not able to do my repairs.

I got myself a piece of sunbrella or something similar with a vinyl on the underside. I folded it to get 8 layers. My Singer with the new needle has no problem with it !!! But it cannot stitch my old dinghy cover.

I have located a Kenmore 148.14220, made in Japan, early 70's. The motor label says 1.2Amps, compare with 0.7Amps for my Singer.
I can have it for $50. I will go and see this weekend.


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## SLI (Aug 11, 2017)

update:
I bought the Kenmore 148.14220 for $40 with the desk. This is made in Japan, 1971-72, all metal, I did not see any plastic part inside or out. No scratch and almost no dust or lint inside.

At the seller's house, there was a big tangle of thread under the needle and the motor would 'hummmmm' but not turn!!
I got rid of all the threads and had to motivate the machine using the hand wheel and it started. After 10 seconds it was running kind of normal. It must have been stuck in old oil.

Back home I oiled it at all friction point I could find, than ran it for a couple minutes. The noise level came down a lot. It is now very smooth. Cool I said to myself that was a bargain. Installed the threads and...and...thread break, and break and break and tangle. Hummm something was wrong. The upper tensioner is loose ans I could not dial it in. I had to take it appart 3 times before I could re-install right. Some king of push-rod for when you lift the foot was missplaced I believe. Now I was able to adjust it and did some test. Everything seems to work now.

I got my new threads, filled a bobbin, installed my Singer denim needle, got my dinghy cover to repair, and GO. The needle could not punch in...but I could see it bending a bit, release the pedal, press again, a couple of time and go go go it is sewing, it make a toc toc toc but it works. Wo, that thing is capable.

Note: machine label says 1.2Amps, but on the motor it is 1.0Amps. I guess the light is 0.2Amps...

It is like this one on the picture:


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