# Adding a lifeline gate



## emcentar (Apr 28, 2009)

Apologies if this has been covered before, but I can't find this question in a search of the archives.

My boat has lifelines, but no lifeline gate. To board the boat (usually docked bow in) you pull it close to the finger pier, grab the piling for balance, and swing yourself over the lifelines. For myself this is not a problem but I do occasionally sail with a 70 pound boxer, and getting her on the boat over the lifelines is a strenuous ordeal (at high-tide, I have to lift her to shoulder height and manage to not catch her legs on the lifelines as she goes over). I'm also concerned about getting anyone either less physically fit (i.e. parents) or short (i.e. nieces and nephews) on the boat without risking them losing their balance and falling between the boat and the finger pier. (I could dock stern in to make boarding marginally easier, but really do prefer the privacy of being bow-in.)

So my question is, how hard is it to put in a lifeline gate? Is this a DIY job or do I need to hire a professional? 

Thanks, E.


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

This is a great excuse to change to dyneema (aka spectra aka Amsteel) lifelines. That is a pretty easy project once you learn how to do the brummel splice. It is also a great winter project and can be done in phases to make it pretty easy (our boat has 4 lifelines, it is okay to replace one at a time).

I put my lifeline gates at the beamist part of our boat (so forward of the cockpit). The lifeline fittings that I used are shown here:
Johnson Marine Hardware Online Virtual Catalog: Page 14

You need 4 LS-3100 (pelican hooks) and 4 LS-3300 (eye to eye fitting) for the job.

I used 1/4" Amsteel for the upper lifelines and 3/16" for the lowers. I think 3/16" everywhere would be fine and 1/4" everywhere is perfectly fine. For my setup you make 8 sections of line:
* 4 short ones between the stern pulpit and aft-most stanchion
* 4 long ones between the bow pulpit and aft-most stanchion

The latter have the pelican hooks on them. The former have the LS-3300 eye hooks.

This article explains it in more detail, and shows some of the lashings:
http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/lifelines.pdf

It's not a cheap project (pelican hooks are expensive), but it is a great one to do and a good intro into splicing.

There are some 28-2 tricks that are helpful. If it's not too nasty when I'm at the boat today I'll take some photos of my lifeline setup. The basic trick is to use slightly longer lifelines over the winches, then use another piece of line to bring them up towards the upper lifeline so that there is no winch handle interference.


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## knuterikt (Aug 7, 2006)

Nice boxer, we sail with two boxers 

We did most our selves, had a rigger to put on the swaged fittings.
Rest was DIY.

I don't know the size of your boat, but we decided to add two of these on each side.








reused on of the existing stanchion bases and added three more to get the opening where we wanted.

This is the result









You need access down below to bolt on the new stanchion bases.

You can use Dyneema or wire.
We selected wire when we did this - but Dyneema also works.
There are several ways to terminate wire - swaged fittings or screw on type
(stalock).


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## paul323 (Mar 13, 2010)

Alex W said:


> This is a great excuse to change to dyneema (aka spectra aka Amsteel) lifelines.


Also have a look at the New England Ropes WR2. It has a dyeema core, but a cover to protect the Dyeema from abrasion and UV. It also looks very similar to plastic-covered wire. I have just redone my boat with it, and am happy with the results. So far!


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## SVTatia (May 7, 2007)

I feel this is an pretty expensive addition. If you don't need the gate all the time, just unhook the pelicans and lower the lifelines to the deck when necessary. Each fitting you add is a failure point, and you need to modify one stanchion and add another - more holes thru the deck, etc.
My 2 cents.


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## arf145 (Jul 25, 2007)

I just did this project on my boat and went the same way as AlexW, using the Johnson fittings and dyneema line. It was, as he said, not inexpensive. But it is DIY doable. What makes it so expensive is that two whole lifelines (upper and lower) must be completely redone, with new fittings.

Here's a possible less expensive alternative, taking SVTatia's suggestion: go with the dyneema line and Johnson fittings, but don't put in a gate. Instead, just use pelican hooks on the forward end of each line. That would only be 4 fittings instead of 8 (2 pelican hooks and 2 terminals), and no adding the reinforced gate stanchion. If you later found that letting down the whole line didn't work for you, you will only have wasted a little dyneema line and you can go forward with the whole project.


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## emcentar (Apr 28, 2009)

arf145 said:


> I just did this project on my boat and went the same way as AlexW, using the Johnson fittings and dyneema line. It was, as he said, not inexpensive. But it is DIY doable. What makes it so expensive is that two whole lifelines (upper and lower) must be completely redone, with new fittings.
> 
> Here's a possible less expensive alternative, taking SVTatia's suggestion: go with the dyneema line and Johnson fittings, but don't put in a gate. Instead, just use pelican hooks on the forward end of each line. That would only be 4 fittings instead of 8 (2 pelican hooks and 2 terminals), and no adding the reinforced gate stanchion. If you later found that letting down the whole line didn't work for you, you will only have wasted a little dyneema line and you can go forward with the whole project.


Thanks! I was staring at the pelican hooks on the boats nearby and trying to figure out if I could refit my lifelines to accommodate them. I don't really need a gate, per se, just a means of getting the dog on the boat without dumping both of us in the Bay.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

I agree that replacing with Dyneema can be expensive, but if you are going to do this, you probably want to decide whether you're going to replace the lifelines anyway since you may not know how long ago they were replaced. If you then price it out assuming that you'll need to replace the stainless lifelines anyway, the cost difference isn't so bad. In addition, the replacement cost going forward is MUCH less.

Mind you, I haven't actually DONE this, but it's on my "nice to have" list as well. In my case, it would possibly cause problems with the lifeline netting.


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

If you only want to add a gate, and your current lifelines are in good shape, you could use you existing 3/16" lines and the Suncor Quick Attach fittings to simply cut your lifelines at a stanchion, and add both a Pelican Hook








, 
and a Gate-eye 








for each line.

I would also add a stanchion brace 








at each gate stanchion.


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

Expensive is relative, isn't it?

This year we replaced uppers, lowers & stern rail gate with made to order lifelines from Rigging Only. Then replaced all 10 stanchions, ordered from Gaurhaur. Total cost with shipping $1025.65. DYI project included remove and rebed all bases and 4 gate braces with new bolts, nuts, washers & butyl. Lifelines and fittings were all circa 1985. So, if we don't replace them for another 28 years (I'm sure it will be sooner) the annual cost it less than $40 to know we have reliable safety.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

While you're about it, add them fore and aft. I believe they add significant safety, avoiding the need for someone to climb over while approaching a pier. All the more needed for those that cruise off the beaten track, where these is no dock hand to help and the approach may include currents you didn't know about.

I was told to put in forward gates by my docking hand (small daughter) since stepping over the lines was not an option. She was right.


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## Doug in Lakeview (Sep 27, 2014)

Hi knuterikt,

Googled "stanchion gates for sailboats" and your post from 9-26-2013 showed up. Very nice boat! What model Beneteau First is she?

We have a 1984 Beneteau First 38 and are planning to add lifeline gates (both starboard & port) as shown in your post. We are planning to remove the existing 630 mm (24.8 in) tall stanchions and to install new stanchion gates along with cast aluminum stanchion bases from Beneteau. Beneteau USA has the bases in stock in South Carolina. We have the headliner down in the cabin and thus have relatively easy access to the underside of the deck to attach backing plate. So far I have not been able to locate stanchion gates identical to what you installed. Do you recall where you purchased the stanchions?

Thanks for any assistance.

Doug in Lakeview
sv déesse
1984 Beneteau First 38 – Hull #178
Belmont Harbor – Chicago


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

I made my own on several boats, merely by using some bimini top parts and cutting an opening in the stern rail. Best thing I've done along these lines. If you look at 1:46 and 4:32 on the accompanying video you will see how I installed the gate. Sure makes life easier for getting myself and my wife on and off the boat. I also made a gangplank that attaches to the gunwale and rests on the finger pier, which is nothing more than a 6-foot length of 2 X 12 with an anchoring pin in one end the fits into a gunwale fitting.






All the best,

Gary


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Since the OP mentioned he is bow in on a small finger he needs the pelican clips on the bow to start. It is advantageous to add them later to the midship area but start with your bow as rhats the only way to get on for you.

I have DYI two ways. I prefer the wire vs the dynema because of the UV factor but I would look at other boats with both kinds and decide which "look" fits you.

I have used the self crimping Johnson fittings but invested in a real long handled swaging tool just like my wire cutters. Don't use the one with the tightening of the nuts on it for the swaging tool. It's not as reliable. The last two times I used the Suncor fittings and going forward will use them as I like the fact they are reusable as well. I would also make sure that somewhere in your lifeline after you install the pelican clips you also have a closed barrel fitting so you can tighten the lie lines and adjust them.

Quick Attach? | Suncor Stainless

Go DYI to learn how to do and can save you quite a bit of money


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## knuterikt (Aug 7, 2006)

Doug in Lakeview said:


> Hi knuterikt,
> 
> Googled "stanchion gates for sailboats" and your post from 9-26-2013 showed up. Very nice boat! What model Beneteau First is she?
> 
> ...


It's a 1984 Beneteau First 38 
We are located near Oslo in Norway, so we purchased those locally.

I don't know what the US name for these pieces are, but I can find them in shops around here.

We got the bases made at a aluminium foundry that copied one of the existing ones.


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## Lazerbrains (Oct 25, 2015)

What is the advantage of using Dyneema over standard vinyl coated stainless lifelines?



Lantau said:


> I can second this comment on Dyneema lifelines. I did it on my boat and an nearly identical boat nearby did it, too. You can see some photos of that here (not really close up, but you get the idea):
> 
> www.pacificseacraft37.com
> 
> ...


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Lazerbrains said:


> What is the advantage of using Dyneema over standard vinyl coated stainless lifelines?


I see more and more people switching to Dyneema these days. Vinyl coated lifelines have been made illegal in offshore racing due to the vinyl hiding and accelerating corrosion, with no prior visual indication until failure.

Other advantages of Dyneema are easier DIY with some simple splicing techniques, you may be able to go up a size or two which is more comfortable and easier on the hands, and no meathooks, ever.

We currently have bare SS wire, but will likely go Dyneema (to match our backstay ) when the time comes.


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## Doug in Lakeview (Sep 27, 2014)

Thanks to all for the suggestions...........

I found 2 potential stanchion gates that might work. One from the Beneteau USA Spare Parts website and one from Plastimo through Bainbridge International their USA distributor. Pics of both are attached. I am awaiting pricing & availability info from both.

Not sure yet if I want to keep/modify the existing stainless steel lifelines or change over to Dyneema.

I will provide an update later.

Doug in Lakeview
s/v déesse
1984 Beneteau First 38 – Hull #178
Belmont Harbor – Chicago


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Garhauer sells an add-on stanchion brace that can turn any standard stanchion into a supported gate end. Our 'gate' opens the entire gap between two stanchions just aft of amidships for easy boarding.

https://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=59

I've got them on our boat, they work well and don't look conspicuously 'add on'. I'd recommend drilling the stanchion for the set screw otherwise they can slip after a while.

You can see it here in this shot.. it would look better still with SS stanchions.


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## svHyLyte (Nov 13, 2008)

Doug in Lakeview said:


> Thanks to all for the suggestions...........
> 
> I found 2 potential stanchion gates that might work. One from the Beneteau USA Spare Parts website and one from Plastimo through Bainbridge International their USA distributor. Pics of both are attached. I am awaiting pricing & availability info from both.
> 
> ...


Doug--

Where do you want to add this "gate"? We're sailing a First 42 and years ago, when we replaced the lifelines, we simply added Pelican hook connectors to the lifelines on the forward side of the second stanchions from the bow on either side of the boat to allow us to open the lifelines for boarding when we're bow in with a short key in a slip; or, for launching/recovering our inflatable from bow storage. One only needs a gate stanchion if one wants to keep the lifelines tight on either side of the gate but 99% of the time, that's really unnecessary and involves rather a lot of labor and cost.

FWIW...


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