# Outboard for Cruising



## Boxerz123 (Sep 14, 2016)

I've decided to bring back a Alberg 30 to life from the depts of despair. I plan on doing extensive cruising but sadly money is tight so I'm looking to find a project boat and work on it over the next 2 years. The boats in this range have either no engine or the engine needs replacement. So I'm thinking of converting the lazarette into an outboard well and removing the old Atomic 4 engine. Assuming all goes well what does everyone think of cruising with an outboard? 
I'll be going with a long-shaft 9.9 hp Nissan or something similar with a reserve tankage of 4 x 3 galon cans. I know I won't be getting the same range as an inboard diesel but given the shoe string budget and wanting to keep the engine as simple as possible is this a viable solution for long-term voyaging? 
My thinking is that with good routing/planning I'd keep motoring to a minimum and sail most of the time whenever I can. And money and space for the existing engine can be used for better purposes. 

Cheers


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

6gal tanks are just a bit more $s than 3gal


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## Arcb (Aug 13, 2016)

An Alberg 30 is a lot of boat for 9.9 hp outboard. 

The lazarette is aft of the rudder, so control under power isn't going to great.

Why not a smaller boat that already has an outboard well designed in?


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## Boxerz123 (Sep 14, 2016)

agree but sadly the Lazarette will only first 3 Gal size tanks. (at least based on the current design i'm thinking of)


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## Boxerz123 (Sep 14, 2016)

thanks arbc 
In Terms of maneuverability, the outboard well design allow the engine to be rotated for 90 degrees of thrust in whichever direction. This renders the boat much more maneuverable compared to the inboard which is a pain to back up.


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## Arcb (Aug 13, 2016)

Fair enough, my brother has an Alberg 22, and it has the same arrangement. Outboard well aft of the rudder, outboard can rotate like you describe. It works on the 22. He uses a Honda 5 hp on that boat, which is 3500 lbs.


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## Sailormon6 (May 9, 2002)

Ten hp should be adequate. I know of a Triton that does well with an 8 hp, and it's only about 600 lbs less than the Alberg 30.

After the A4 is removed there will be plenty of space to install a 12 gal tank, or even larger. It has to be installed to meet ABYC specs. They don't appear too cumbersome. By the time you buy 4 tanks and the necessary fittings, you could probably buy a permanently installed 12 gal tank for not much more.
You can get some guidance at this link. https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Fuel-System-Installation-Checklist


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

You can fit a lot of rum and canned goods into that old engine space.
Plan it so goods are secure.
I would have zero gas stored inside. Thats just me...
What do you plan to do with her?
Where are you going?
Pretty boat


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## basssears (Nov 8, 2010)

One consideration is power generation. Many (most?) outboards in that size don't have a rectifier to generate 12v power, although you can add them to most it seems... even then they don't put out anywhere near the amperage that an alternator on a diesel might. Not saying that's a plan stopper, just something to consider if you think you're going to have significant power draws (fridge etc).


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## paulinnanaimo (Dec 3, 2016)

You don't need even significant power draws, GPS and VHF will drain the batteries to the point where it will take a lot of outboard running time to replenish. Lights and pumps add a bigger deficit. A portable generator is a possible option.


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## jephotog (Feb 25, 2002)

basssears said:


> One consideration is power generation. Many (most?) outboards in that size don't have a rectifier to generate 12v power, although you can add them to most it seems... even then they don't put out anywhere near the amperage that an alternator on a diesel might. Not saying that's a plan stopper, just something to consider if you think you're going to have significant power draws (fridge etc).


I agree, I am looking to make my trailer sailor into a cruiser and think the limit of the outboards power output will be the limiting factor. I am thinking if he can't afford a working inboard, refrigeration is unlikely also.

It seems like taking a boat removing the motor and altering the transom to fit an outboard will be an extensive task. A used 9.9 will likely cost you $1000 new with alternator $2400. I don't see this as a money or time saving alternative. That time and effort would be better spent rebuilding an Atomic 4. The ability to have a better source of DC generation and maybe hot water would benefit you in the long run.


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## basssears (Nov 8, 2010)

With the solar options out there these days you could probably get by with the minimal power generation of an outboard, but now we're talking even more expense (and you need the space for lots of panels).


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## Arcb (Aug 13, 2016)

For power generation, in this situation, you could consider going with having a solar panel and close to zero electronics.

LED nav Lights, a simple VHF with a small screen that displays numbers only, tablet for navigation, basic alcohol stove, hand pump for water, no fridge.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Boxerz123 said:


> I've decided to bring back a Alberg 30 to life from the depts of despair. I plan on doing extensive cruising but sadly money is tight so I'm looking to find a project boat and work on it over the next 2 years.


Be careful, this math rarely works. Bringing a boat back to life, often costs more than one in seaworthy condition already. IMO, the only boats worth resurrecting are those with strictly cosmetic issues. Mechanicals, rigging, sails, decks, engines, etc, cost more than they're ultimately worth. Almost every used boat sells for some fraction of the dollar that was actually spent on it.


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## dadio917 (Apr 4, 2011)

had a Honda 9.9 on the transom of an o'day 27 which is a pretty heavy boat. Pushed it fine to 6 knots in smooth water. That honda never let us down and generated 12V for charging. Could augment with some cheap solar as well. Maybe a prop change for your particular boat?


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## roverhi (Dec 19, 2013)

If you are like us and only use the engine to get in and out of marinas, very limited powering at sea and prefer to sail if at all possible, a 10hp outboard will be adequate for powering in low wind/wave conditions. We cruised in a 20,000# boat with only a 25hp auxiliary and never felt the need for more power. FYI, Yves Galenas of Cape Horn Self Steering fame sailed an Alberg 30 around the world solo without an engine. Later on he made a mount for a larger outboard (25hp?) for cruising the Intercoastal Waterways that necessitated a lot of powering. He has a DVD of the trip that's well worth the price. http://caphorn.com/en/integrated-models/ I wouldn't give up the lazarette for the outboard. Would use a transom mount to keep it from robbing valuable storage space. Not the best location for engine location in significant seas but those conditions are almost never encountered without wind to sail.

Even if the outboard has generating capacity wouldn't expect it to supply much battery charging capacity. The alternators or whatever on outboards seem to have pitifully small output. Would want solar/wind charging capability as the primary battery charging source. If you keep the boat simple with limited electronics, no refrigeration, etc you can get by with with modest charging capacity. We cruised/lived aboard without refrigeration and got by just fine. There are a lot of people on this list that you can only cruise in a 40' plus boat with A/C, Refrigeration, Surround Sound Big Screen TV, etc You can easily circumnavigate with a hand held VHF, 5" display plotter, LED nav and interior lights with limited a minimal solar/wind charging capability. For me, sailing is not about lugging all the detritus of a condo out to sea.


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## Jeffrey Gawrys (Mar 20, 2017)

I cruise an Allied Seawind 30 with a 6hp Tohatsu on a stern bracket and so far don’t really miss the inboard diesel after it failed.

My boat is 12,000lbs and the outboard pushes it at close to hull speed at half throttle. 

The real difference comes when docking, the small outboard prop doesn’t have a ton of bite and the boat cannot be stopped quickly. The learning curve is steep and I avoid docking whenever possible and when I need to it takes a few go arounds to get the angles right. And it took a few bruised ego days to get even remotely adequate at docking

I have 135 watts of solar between a 35 and a 100 watt panel and 450ah of battery between four gc2 batteries.

With a little care I haven’t had issues running batteries low.

It’s all in what you can deal with

Jeff


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## Jeffrey Gawrys (Mar 20, 2017)

As seen here


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## basssears (Nov 8, 2010)

Jeffrey Gawrys said:


> The real difference comes when docking, the small outboard prop doesn't have a ton of bite and the boat cannot be stopped quickly. The learning curve is steep and I avoid docking whenever possible and when I need to it takes a few go arounds to get the angles right. And it took a few bruised ego days to get even remotely adequate at docking


If your outboard takes it a high thrust prop can help with this. I put one on our Yamaha 8HP (not a high thrust model outboard, but has a high thrust prop available for it) and it helped quite a bit with reversing and stopping... seems to help a bit with going forward but I didn't notice a change as much there as with the stopping power. FWIW.


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## basssears (Nov 8, 2010)

Jeffrey Gawrys said:


> As seen here


Pretty boat!!


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## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

Jeffrey Gawrys said:


> I cruise an Allied Seawind 30 with a 6hp Tohatsu on a stern bracket and so far don't really miss the inboard diesel after it failed.
> 
> My boat is 12,000lbs and the outboard pushes it at close to hull speed at half throttle.


This sounds impossible.


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

For the price of a brand new Yamaha 4 stroke, 15 hp engine (the *only* one I would suggest as the best and most reliable on the market), you could probably come close to the cost of rebuilding whatever engine you already have aboard and gain a lot of important experience.
I would also suggest, that as cruising is your stated goal, an outboard on a 30 footer could put you in dire circumstances should you encounter some pretty bad weather from an unfavorable direction. You will be seriously limited as to when that motor will work for you.
Now, the boat you are discussing was designed with its engine and fuel (a good bit of weight) more or less in the center of the boat, by an experienced and one would hope, qualified marine architect. Now you are contemplating removing all that weight from the center of the boat and adding a bunch to the blunt end. Have you given any consideration to what this might do to the sailing performance and characteristics of your boat? As long as I've been boating, people have been saying to me to keep the ends of the boat light.
On our 53 foot 77,000# boat, it actually makes a considerable difference if we sail with our 250# inflatable on the foredeck or on the davits.
Just saying.....


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

I owned a cape dory 24 for several years with an outboard in a well. 


It was a TOTAL PIA. With any kind slop water would splash up into the well. Sometimes even when the engine wasn’t running it meant no engine the next time you went to start it. I took some benzeel board and constructed a rim around it to try to protect it and it worked to a moderate degree but the force of a wave coming up had it leak sometimes and then the well wouldn’t drain for awhile. Got rid of the board. I went to a CD30 and it was a different world. Unless you never expect to be in an even moderate seaway or significant chop would avoid a outboard in a well. May work for a NJ sea bright powerboat but not for a sailboat. 
Interestingly in the sailboats with an outboard on a bracket never had this issue. Don’t know why.


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## Arcb (Aug 13, 2016)

My outboard is in a well. I dont take any slop through my well, certainly nothing that is going to drown out my engine. My only complaint is the wave slap on the after end of my well which robs me of speed when sailing.

Of course, being sailboats, they dont really need an engine at all when they are sailing or anchoring. The engines become a necessity when docking in marinas or canaling. I usually remove my outboard and store it in a locker if I am going to be sailing for more than an hour or two and replace it before I enter a marina. Some boats have outboard well plugs to eliminate the slap, and I guess slop if it happens to be a problem.


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## archimedes (May 14, 2014)

Jeffrey Gawrys said:


> As seen here


Is that an extension on the throttle?


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## Jeffrey Gawrys (Mar 20, 2017)

archimedes said:


> Is that an extension on the throttle?


Yup makes it easier to reach from the helm and the ability to pivot the outboard makes turns a little tighter


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## paul45c (Jul 14, 2011)

Boxerz123, I'd strongly suggest you visit atomvoyages.com. It was put up by a guy named James Baldwin. I've never met him, but I've just really scoured his site recently and loved reading everything. Fascinating guy, who has circumnavigated TWICE in an old Pearson Triton 28. He's written 3 books about those voyages. Right now, it appears his main work these days is consulting with people about to go offshore, and a side business is retrofitting old plastic classics into the kind of shape they need to be in order to handle the stresses of serious bluewater cruising. What you'll find particularly relevant is 1) he has done work outfitting several Alberg 30's, and 2) he regularly modifies Tritons, Albergs and other similar old CCA designs to have outboard wells in the lazarettes. He really really hates inboards. His methods wouldn't be for everybody. He outfits his boats in a pretty minimalist style. Like, as in no icebox or refrigeration. It makes sense when you see the kinds of spans he's spent between harbors...like weeks and weeks, where refrigeration prob just wouldn't be an option without a generator. For a coastal cruiser who likes his comfort or a live aboard, his ideas might not fit your plans. But to cut to the chase, he's a huge fan of putting outboards in these style boats up to 30', and he feels 10 hp is ample for a 30. I think I recall him particularly liking Tohatsu with the high thrust prop. He modifies the lazarettes to incorporate glassed-in flotation chambers that also serve as shelves for 2 plastic outboard tanks a side. He cuts a slot from the outboard's hole running fairly high up the transom to allow the motor to tilt up when not driving the boat. He has fiberglass pieces that slide and clamp in the close the parts of the "slot" not in use to limit the splash. You end up with a tip-up hatch, raised up somewhat, to clear the top of the motor. He's done many this way. Never having met Mr. Baldwin, I'm inclined to believe his experience; if he says it works, I believe it. With older boats, I'm a little more of a purist and shy away from mods like these that change the look, and i really don't mind tinkering on a small diesel inboard as long as there's room for my big butt to get in there, but I don't question that his setup would work. And, I have to admit, his way would give some relief to how notoriously unpredictably these boats back down in a slip with their keel-hung rudders with the prop in a little aperture; if you can swing that outboard at least 30 degrees each way when backing down, you'll actually have some measure of control.


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