# Cal 28 Flushdeck project



## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

I bought 'Cal-o-mine' almost 3 years ago and although she has become my home (I now live aboard 4-5 nights a week) it is now time to get her ready to sail ... not that she hasn't (there are laying around here still ... a few mis-adventures we've shared) ...

She was once sailed hard on San Francisco Bay ... and when I purchased her looked like she was put away wet ... bare and dirty and abit abused ... but still sound and sturdy

Over time I've amassed a fair amount of equipment to install .. most of which came used at bargain prices (although NOT safety or electrical) and I've asked quite a number of inane questions here (and intend to ask many more over the next weeks) ... I'm not by any stretch of the imagination a craftsman ... (learning to tie knots was a challenge) and at 64 I am not as agile as I once was ...

But I have just completed my 101 course and moving on to 103 (anyone in the San Francisco area looking - see Mary at Afterguard - probably the Bay area's best secret - just a great instructor and program) ... and want to have her ready for San Francisco's 'summer' (the last week of Sept and 1st week of October) ...

I've moved everything off her and into a storage unit ... haul-out's in about a month ... and so here we start ...

Pressure washed and scrubbed and pressure washed some more to clean away all the flaking old paint ... the V berth looked like this ...










Now my first concern was the overhead ... it is sound structurally ... but is merely a sheet of ply glassed over and painted and after 47 years even after intensive (for me) sanding ... I was not able to smooth it out ... nor did I want to with the glass laid on ... so I have decided to apply a couple of base heavy base coats to try to fill-in and cover the best I can before the final off-white paint is applied ...










The hardware holding on the track topside is next ... I unscrewed the nuts and popped the washers ... no apparent leaks ... I'm planning on 'hiding' them with a varnished grooved wooden fillet and know that I have to rebed the stanchions and the bow pulpit (already ordered butyl tape from Maine Sail) ... so the question is ... SHOULD I also redbed all the thirty-some screws ... I'm not planning on using the spinnaker in the near foreseeable future) ...

As always ... thanks in advance


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## overbored (Oct 8, 2010)

If the deck is sound and there are no leaks I would say no. whats the worst that could happen, after a few more years it starts to leak and you fix them then or it never leaks and your good.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Overbored ...

Thnks ... that's what I was thinking ... but whenever I think it turns out to be offbase ... as I have little experience with sailing or boats for that matter ...

I am going to put a substantial amount of time and effort as well as money into this project ... rewiring 12V .. 110V .. new standing and running rigging ... perhaps new sails ..

but then ... I don't want to let the 'perfect' get in the way of the 'good enough' .. my problem is that I am not sure what is ... 'good enough'


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

I sure did all mine as after all that work you dont want to take it apart again ?


And if by some lucky act the plywood is still dry you SURE do NOT want any water going through the sheet


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## arf145 (Jul 25, 2007)

tommays said:


> And if by some lucky act the plywood is still dry you SURE do NOT want any water going through the sheet


I'm with Tommays here. As I understand it, water moves through plywood much faster than end-grain balsa. If you've actually gotten 47 dry years out of those screw holes, bank your winnings and reseat.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Tommays

Thanks ... I had a gut feeling that I should do them all ... I'll look at it as practice for rebedding the stanchions ... which leads me to my next question ...

backing plates:

ss or starboard ... I've read alot about each and the Cal doesn't have ~any~ so I'll need quite a few ... from a purely ascetic view I'd prefer ss in the v-berth and main cabin ...

also any idea on sizing (overall and thickness) - I have two different patterns for the stanchions - center to center 

- 1 7/8" X 1 7/8"

- 2" X 1 7/8"

I need to decide and get those ordered very soon as the buytl tape arrived today ...

One last thing ... I have spent quite abit of time on your blog ... thanks as it has been time both informative and entertaining


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

arf145

you're correct ... now that I have decided to put the time and energy and money into refitting her ... I may as well do it correctly

Thanks


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

One of the things i did was use G10 in place of the core in the stanchion area which was a complete waste of time as it is exactly the same as the balsa 














































Over time all the high stress hardware was sinking into the skins and as i kind of get my stainless more or less for free it was and easy pick 

14 gauge is a bit thin 12 is Good

I had a pile of 10 gauge scarps so 10 it was and after the first hurricane i cant really regret it :laugher


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

> One of the things i did was use G10 in place of the core in the stanchion area which was a complete waste of time as it is exactly the same as the balsa


What??? Balsa is organic, and comes from a tree. Balsa will decompose if allowed to get wet. G10 is/will not.

I would have suggested G10 as backing plates, instead of making a core out of it. However, since you did, and you already have made SS backing plates, and are using SS screws (presumably), I think that you are good to go.


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## Lake Superior Sailor (Aug 23, 2011)

I own a 28 Cal flushdeck 1967, and sail Lake Superior with it, mine also needed lots of work. but it's well worth it! The vessel can really sail. I've repowered ,with a YMS 8.....Dale


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

What is the headroom in those flush (more correctly *raised*) deck Cal 28's? I've always liked them but never been on one.

That whole series of boats from the 20 through the 28 were some of Lapworths best I think. The Cal 20 IMHO is simply THE best 20 footer ever built. The raised deck design gives such a nice amount of deck space on a small boat compared to a trunk cabin.


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## BigZ (Jan 3, 2001)

Regarding hiding the hardware with a wooden filet, I used a similar technique to cover my genoa tracks. I left a few bolts extra long and used sex bolts (sometimes called blind nuts or barrel nuts) to secure the wood trim over the bolts. Had to use several lengths due to the curve, but you might be able to do it with one.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Tommays

Thanks again for the photos ... they DO help ...

I had a good friend who owned his own business in Phoenix and worked extensively in ss ... he was going to make my backing plates so I had mentally left that off my 'to do' list ... unfortunately he went out of business end of last year ... made a few phone calls today ... and it looks as if it'll be gs10 for the backing plates ... at least for now ... but I might have to pop for ss for the two in the V berth ...

eherlihy

As I am probably going to use gs10 ... what thickness and how much overlay outside of the area within the boltholes?

Thanks again in advance

John


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Lake Superior Sailor said:


> I own a 28 Cal flushdeck 1967, and sail Lake Superior with it, mine also needed lots of work. but it's well worth it! The vessel can really sail. I've repowered ,with a YMS 8.....Dale


Dale

I was raised in Detroit and used to camp out on the shores of Lake Superior not far from the old lighthouse (and fog horn) at Whitefish Point long before the Edmund Fitzgerald found her grave neat there ...

Mine's hull number 181 ... no inboard but an outboard well in the lazerette ... and I prefer her that way ... adds plenty of space aft between the 1/4 berths ... I'd love to see photos of how you have her rigged as I am completely rerigging mine ... both standing and running ... thinking about adding a mast plate as well ... and would like to see any modifications to the cabin as well ... especially if you have done anything to the area around the companionway as I'm thinking of adding a sheet of mahogany to the fiberglass ... odd angle and I'm not sure how to exactly mount it ... been looking for a stove/oven and even found a couple of good Force 10 3 burners for around $350 ... but can't quite imagine how to mount them in the space available and that work is abit over my head ... even with help ...

and if you have a line on a used main that still has some life in it ... I'd be very interested as mine is fairly worn ... went to a loft and drooled over a new main two weeks ago ($1600) ... and have been searching for months everywhere from Bacon to Minnies for one that will work ...

John


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

SloopJonB said:


> What is the headroom in those flush (more correctly *raised*) deck Cal 28's? I've always liked them but never been on one.
> 
> That whole series of boats from the 20 through the 28 were some of Lapworths best I think. The Cal 20 IMHO is simply THE best 20 footer ever built. The raised deck design gives such a nice amount of deck space on a small boat compared to a trunk cabin.


Sloop John B

Here's an old ad with some specs ...










It list's the headroom at 5' 11" ... and that's right standing in the main cabin under the sliding hatch (see the photo) ...

From what I've read ... she was the precursor to the 40 ... and though I am rather new to sailboats ... she has more interior room and storage than many 30-34's I have seen ... as well as ample room in the V berth ... 

and when she catches the wind ... even with tired sails and an inexperienced helmsman ... she takes off ...

here's a link to one of the best sites on Cals if you are interested ...

Most I've run into think she's ugly with that raised deck ... but then I worked for Ford for 20 years ... and even when I was driving a company car to work ... my fun car was a '72 454 vette ... only because I couldn't find an old cobra mark I that I could afford back then ... to me she's a classic beauty and from what I've heard and read ... a real thoroughbred ... about the only thing that would bring me more pleasure than bringing her back to 'life' ... will be to learn to let her run .....


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

ok ... back to work ... a couple of warm days in San Francisco (low to mid 70's) so I took some vacation ... continuing in the V berth ... three coats of white primer base coat on the overhead ... worked about as well as expected to partially fill/hide the roughness ... one coat on the hull (where I had installed reflectix for insulation) ... living aboard during the winter has proved what many have said here ... the keys are insulation ... air movement ... low humidity as well as a good heat source ... I might be giving up some insulation but have decided to go with 1/4" decorative cork panel (12" x 24") against the hull ... with a dehumidifier and a good fan ... I'm betting this Vornado i control heater will keep it warm and toasty as it did last year ... the cork should be relatively easy to install and add to the 'look' while giving at least some partial insulation ...










starting to look abit more hospitable ... I'll be interested to see how it looks in the morning light tomorrow ... surely some touch up and hopefully that's all ... but I do have something to resolve that I probably should have before starting to paint ...










the starboard tabbing holding up the plywood deck is cracked/slit along the hull for about 4.5 feet half way down the v-berth ... I hear a PO was rather hefty ... and I have a similar tho' smaller problem in the main cabin behind one of the seats ... from what I have learned ... this should be a rather simple repair ... laying a 4" strip of glass onto both the hull and then the plywood deck ... epoxy ... harden ... then laying a 6" strip over that (3" onto the newly laid strip on the hull - 3" onto the new strip on the deck) ... does this sound correct? ... if not ... suggestions?

Once again ... thanks in advance


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Cal28 said:


> the starboard tabbing holding up the plywood deck is cracked/slit along the hull for about 4.5 feet half way down the v-berth ... I hear a PO was rather hefty ... and I have a similar tho' smaller problem in the main cabin behind one of the seats ... from what I have learned ... this should be a rather simple repair ... laying a 4" strip of glass onto both the hull and then the plywood deck ... epoxy ... harden ... then laying a 6" strip over that (3" onto the newly laid strip on the hull - 3" onto the new strip on the deck) ... does this sound correct? ... if not ... suggestions?
> 
> Once again ... thanks in advance


 Just be sure to sand the bonding surfaces to clean base material - don't laminate over paint etc.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

BigZ said:


> Regarding hiding the hardware with a wooden filet, I used a similar technique to cover my genoa tracks. I left a few bolts extra long and used sex bolts (sometimes called blind nuts or barrel nuts) to secure the wood trim over the bolts. Had to use several lengths due to the curve, but you might be able to do it with one.


BigZ

Thanks for the idea ... and the images as I hadn't thought about securing it that way ... and believe that I will


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

SloopJonB said:


> Just be sure to sand the bonding surfaces to clean base material - don't laminate over paint etc.


SloopJonB

I never done anything like this before ... got the wood sanded and bare ... after reading this (West System-How to) my big question is how much resin/hardener is required ... again I'm working on about 5' length of tab ...

thanks again as I am planning on doing this Saturday


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Cal28 said:


> SloopJonB
> 
> I never done anything like this before ... got the wood sanded and bare ... after reading this (West System-How to) my big question is how much resin/hardener is required ... again I'm working on about 5' length of tab ...
> 
> thanks again as I am planning on doing this Saturday


A gallon kit should be plenty - you'll probably use any excess before you are done with your restoration.  It has a very long shelf life as well. If you find yourself with some old resin that has turned sort of waxy solid, just warm the container in warm water and it will re-liquify. Also, there are cheaper options than West resins out there. I really like System Three epoxy.

If you are using fiberglass mat, be certain you have epoxy compatible mat - the regular stuff has a binder in it that requires styrene to dissolve - styrene is in polyester but not epoxy.

For a small job like that, my preference is to use 10 Oz. fiberglass cloth. It is very easily wetted out, drapes very nicely and makes a neat job. Two layers gives lots of strength.


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## olson34 (Oct 13, 2000)

Cal28 said:


> Sloop John B
> 
> Here's an old ad with some specs ...
> 
> ...


"Thoroughbred" and "classic" are both perfect adjectives for the _flat top Cal_ family of designs. A timeless design from an era when a pocket cruiser was expected to routinely be a fast sail boat 'round the buoys and then house a young family for a weekend or a week on vacation. 
A vacation that could involve a lot a sailing rather than motoring, because the family boat was actually fun and easy to sail. (!)
We used to have a Cal 28 flat top here that would routinely go up the WA coast on the outside to the west side of Vancouver Island. Ten hp OB in the well, IIRC. Seaworthy hull and quick under sail. The owner changed to a power boat when he was in his 70's, and still misses his Cal.

Interesting comment about the V berth... It's surprising --almost amazing -- how many common production boats do _not_ have a comfortable place to sleep anywhere inside. 
Being 6' 2", I have always looked for designs that had some real-world sleeping dimentions factored into their layout!

Have fun sailing it. BTW, if you can find a newer set of sails, perhaps by carefully evaluating some low-coast used ones, you will be amazed just how much faster yet that boat can be.


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## i_amcdn (Jul 4, 2012)

My boss has a Cal27-7...he is 6' + and he has no issues standing. The boat is really fast and other folks in his club were upset that they did not grab it when it was for sale.

A previous owner converted it to wheel steering. Takes up a bit of room in the cockpit but makes the sailing experience much more fun.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

SloopJonB said:


> A gallon kit should be plenty - you'll probably use any excess before you are done with your restoration.  It has a very long shelf life as well. If you find yourself with some old resin that has turned sort of waxy solid, just warm the container in warm water and it will re-liquify. Also, there are cheaper options than West resins out there. I really like System Three epoxy.
> 
> If you are using fiberglass mat, be certain you have epoxy compatible mat - the regular stuff has a binder in it that requires styrene to dissolve - styrene is in polyester but not epoxy.
> 
> For a small job like that, my preference is to use 10 Oz. fiberglass cloth. It is very easily wetted out, drapes very nicely and makes a neat job. Two layers gives lots of strength.


SloopJonB

Got and thanks ... I'll let you know Sunday how it all turned out ..



olson34 said:


> "Thoroughbred" and "classic" are both perfect adjectives for the _flat top Cal_ family of designs. A timeless design from an era when a pocket cruiser was expected to routinely be a fast sail boat 'round the buoys and then house a young family for a weekend or a week on vacation.
> A vacation that could involve a lot a sailing rather than motoring, because the family boat was actually fun and easy to sail. (!)
> We used to have a Cal 28 flat top here that would routinely go up the WA coast on the outside to the west side of Vancouver Island. Ten hp OB in the well, IIRC. Seaworthy hull and quick under sail. The owner changed to a power boat when he was in his 70's, and still misses his Cal.
> 
> ...


Olson34

I certainly agree ... and I'd love to share any tips that you have regarding your Cal 28 ...
btw ... before purchasing her I looked at quite a number of boats ... came close to buying an Erickson 30 .. but after talking the owner into a trial 'sleepover' to see how the V berth was I woke up almost claustrophobic ... the Cal 28 flatdeck has ample room and without an inboard (just the well in the lazerette) ... storage space galore aft as well ...


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

another quick update ...

Had a couple of warm (over 70) days this past week and had all the mahogany sanded down to get at least one coat of varnish on ... as well as finishing off more painting ... before I start pulling wire (yes ... electrical rework next - subject of a whole other post later this weekend) ...

trying to work from bow to stern ... a couple of questions again from the V berth

I removed the old 12V lights from the V berth bulkhead ... and sanded down to what I thought would be sufficient ...










unfortunately when I laid down that first coat of varnish ... the shadow of the light and wiring reappeared ...










any suggestions to make it disappear? ... I imagine it will entail sanding down again to bare wood ... perhaps bleaching with oxylic acid (I thought that was for teac) ...

work in the main cabin was more rewarding ... I was able to remove most of the old paint from the hull above the cabinets and around the ports ... but the texture left alot to be desired ...










so off came the ports (careful not to strip any of the screws) ... a couple of layers of primer ... and as that wasn't satisfying ... I decided to try to use some spackling ... sanded ... more spackling ... sanded ... and finally a couple of coats of paint ... I still have to cut in the edge ... and the texture isn't perfect ... but looks much better than it did ...










hopefully this weekend will bring some more positive results ...


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Cal28 said:


> I removed the old 12V lights from the V berth bulkhead ... and sanded down to what I thought would be sufficient ...
> 
> unfortunately when I laid down that first coat of varnish ... the shadow of the light and wiring reappeared ...
> 
> any suggestions to make it disappear? ... I imagine it will entail sanding down again to bare wood ... perhaps bleaching with oxylic acid (I thought that was for teac) ...


Use Spar varnish - it darkens or "goldens" more than the ultra clear urethanes and varnishes they make these days. It will still show but just live with it - it's an old boat and that sort of thing classifies as "patina".  The veneer on faced plywood is very thin and you can sand through it very easily.



> I decided to try to use some spackling ... sanded ... more spackling ... sanded ... and finally a couple of coats of paint ... I still have to cut in the edge ... and the texture isn't perfect ... but looks much better than it did ...


I hope you aren't referring to drywall spackle  If so, prepare to re-do it all before long. That stuff has little or no bonding strength, is hygroscopic in the EXTREME and will not stay in place in a boat.

If you have to have the weave of the exposed fiberglass filled and smoothed, the only worthwhile option is epoxy filler.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

SloopJonB said:


> Use Spar varnish - it darkens or "goldens" more than the ultra clear urethanes and varnishes they make these days. It will still show but just live with it - it's an old boat and that sort of thing classifies as "patina".  The veneer on faced plywood is very thin and you can sand through it very easily.
> 
> I hope you aren't referring to drywall spackle  If so, prepare to re-do it all before long. That stuff has little or no bonding strength, is hygroscopic in the EXTREME and will not stay in place in a boat.
> 
> If you have to have the weave of the exposed fiberglass filled and smoothed, the only worthwhile option is epoxy filler.


SloopJonB

One step forward ... three steps back ...

1) exactly ...

for all I've read and the work I've done helping others on their boat(s) over the past 2 years ... I know that I should use spar varnish ... for some reason I tried to use a water based clear urethane on the inside V berth ... I didn't like the 'look' and stopped before I moved to the main cabin ... switching to helmsman spar clear semi-gloss ...










and I do like that darker 'golden' look ...










I read your post on my cell phone yesterday morning ... and decided to resand the area I had already applied two coats to ...










and hope that this week it will be warm enough to reapply a couple of coats ...

2) ... doh ...

that got sanded off as well yesterday and I am going to learn today learn about epoxy filler ...

spent some time examining the overhead in the V berth and thinking that is probably what I should have used there initially to smooth it ... but decided that it works ... and I want to get the paint and varnish work complete so that I can rewire and install new electrical panels and batteries as this just doesn't work anymore ...










a couple of gnawing concerns I need to resolve soon ...

I have a 25 gallon water tank built into the V berth ...










it has a couple of surface cracks and the cover is just nasty

I do want to use it as adding a molded tank (which I have acquired) will move that 150 lbs from the bow to the stern and I am already adding some weight there with added battery(ies) as well as a 15 HP Mercury in the lazerette (seperate question about possibly strengthening the support there) ...

I am trying to find something to use to reglaze/epozy the tank ... and even spoke with West Systems who have a product and procedure that they do not recommend for obvious reasons ... "Building Tanks with West Systems Epozy" ...

As I see it ... my only other solution is adding a bladder into the existing tank and using that ...

any other ideas?

The underside of the sliding hatch is ... well worn ... how do I recoat and make it something that can add to the appearance (somehow thinking that epoxy filler will surface in the answer) ...










once again ... thanks in advance ...


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## robn1397 (Jul 29, 2012)

I have a set of sails for a Cal 28 - Made by Storer in Canada - in excellent condition - some never used. 170% Genoa is baby blue. All sails have #6 tape for head foil.

Please feel free to contact me at [email protected] for further details.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

robn1397 said:


> I have a set of sails for a Cal 28 - Made by Storer in Canada - in excellent condition - some never used. 170% Genoa is baby blue. All sails have #6 tape for head foil.
> 
> Please feel free to contact me at [email protected] for further details.


robn1397

Sent you an email ... thanks

(already thinking now about adding a second forestay) ...


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Portlights off and time to give them all (8) some attention ... as it looks as if it has been years/decades probably ...

got 4 sliders (none of which funtion) and two cracked/very badly grazed ... spent some time discussing with Mark Heacox of Mark Plastics who said that the cause of any leaking is not from the large gasket that wraps around (and is merely for decoration)










but rather the silicone seal directly against the glass/lexan ... and the repair to eliminate any leaking is to scrape out the silicone and reapply ... does this sound correct?

Anyway ... after lengthy vinegar bath ... one of the 4 sliders is now ... sliding

but the exciting thing is with the ports removed ... I can actually see the original gelcoat color ... if ever so small a slice of it ...










and I'm waiting rather impatiently to put MaineSail's Tips for Compound Polish and Wax ... to use ...


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

It's rather pathetic but true ... the last time I actually did any wood/metal working was in junior high school shop class ... over 50 years ago ... and this adds to the both the difficulty as well as the challenge to working on the Cal ..

Next priority is abit of added wood work ... specifically something more stable and attractive on the inside of the fiberglass companionway bulkhead ... (this is how she looked when I bought her) ...










port side sanded and primered ... still with holes that need to be filled (yes ... I hear epoxy filler again) ...










starboard side shown below ... where I will be adding an enclosure to hold the micro-wave ...










and adding a removeable seatback to rest against the bulkhead here ...










I am in awe of what so many here can do ... the skill they have acquired and mastered ... in being able to work with wood ... part of my challenge is that I don't have a shop or garage full of tools ... 4 days off to work on the boat this weekend and spent the better part of one day getting the 4 x 8 sheet of 1/2' marine ply ... then getting a saw to cut it ... for what I would have paid for a relatively decent inexpensive circular saw ($60) ... found a portable 10" table saw almost brand new ...

sheet cut up ... now it's fabricating the battery box ... then installing the batteries and start to pull wire ... should be a fun week plus ...


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## olson34 (Oct 13, 2000)

"It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye." 
Antoine de Saint-Exupery

You have a bit of a learning curve to climb, but just take it a step at a time.
Anyone who appreciates Antoine de Saint-Exupery is already off to a good start!


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Cal28 said:


> port side sanded and primered ... still with holes that need to be filled (yes ... I hear epoxy filler again) ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A quick, easy and pretty cheap way to make a big difference in those aft bulkheads is to buy a sheet of 1/8" teak (or mahogany, cherry, whatever) ply and veneer them with it. It's a lot less work than filling, sanding, refilling, more sanding, priming, more sanding, priming and painting.

Check out lackeysailing.com - he's currently doing that with the Tartan 34 he's working on.

Just pick up a cheap jigsaw and some fine toothed blades to avoid chipping the face veneer. Taping over the cutline with masking tape and cutting through it helps as well.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

olson34 said:


> "It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye."
> Antoine de Saint-Exupery
> 
> You have a bit of a learning curve to climb, but just take it a step at a time.
> Anyone who appreciates Antoine de Saint-Exupery is already off to a good start!


Olson34

a rather steep learning curve ... and thanks ... doing just that



SloopJonB said:


> A quick, easy and pretty cheap way to make a big difference in those aft bulkheads is to buy a sheet of 1/8" teak (or mahogany, cherry, whatever) ply and veneer them with it. It's a lot less work than filling, sanding, refilling, more sanding, priming, more sanding, priming and painting.
> 
> Check out lackeysailing.com - he's currently doing that with the Tartan 34 he's working on.
> 
> Just pick up a cheap jigsaw and some fine toothed blades to avoid chipping the face veneer. Taping over the cutline with masking tape and cutting through it helps as well.


SloopJonB

Thanks for the link ... I had looked at his site a while ago but hadn't seen his current work ... read what he is doing to the Tartan ...

Had planned originally to do just that ... but a couple of things made me change and go with 1/2" ply ...

There is a crack in the fiberglass under the companionway the needs to be repaired (I'll add a photo of it tonight) and I thought the 1/2" ply would add support there (as well as a piece of ss on the outside cockpit)

and I did want to create both a small divider blocking off the upper 1/4 berth area as well as make a support for the cushions and back rest for the aft seat in the cabin ...










finally got some warm weather here (over 70) and took yesterday and today off work and got another coat of varnish on the cabin and more cuts done ... and will be working the weekend as well on her


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Another full day working on the Cal ... got the plywood cut and shaped for the port side of the aft bulkhead ...










and now comes another interesting part ...

here is the crack in the fiberglass under the companionway entry ...

taken from the cockpit ...










and taken from the cabin close-up (that's the ladder in the bottom right corner )...










what I am thinking about doing is ...

- removing the wooden block now used to mount the ladder

- refiberglass/epoxy the crack

- mount the 1/2" ply

- get a length of stainless to mount beneath the companionway on the cockpit side

- add another wood block to mount the ladder

- tie in the stainless to the ply and block

does that sound like it would work?


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Took the morning off to peruse 'second hand treasures' ... first at a marine swap meet and then at 'Blue Pelican Marine' consignment shop in Alameda (a favorite haunt) ...

The decision to try to refurbish the ports










in hindsight may not have been the best ... but with a tight budget and a haulout looming and new standing and running rigging scheduled ... is rather necessary ... and having them out has lead me to want ... opening ports for the V berth ... found a pair of originals out of a Cal 25 I believe but the price tag of $125 each was more than abit steep ... so no luck on that front ...

still have the original slotted winches ...










and sailing every Wednesday night on a friend's Ranger 23 with self tailers has given me winch envy ... those are scheduled to be replaced as well ... I've been looking for almost a year and not found anything used within my budget so the next best I believe is a pair of old but unused Meissner double speed #21's that I can pick up for $225 each ...

which brings me to the next question ... halyard raising/lowering ... at 64 I am not as agile as I once was ... and just feel it safer to raise and lower from the cockpit ... currently I have a pair of winches mast mounted but am looking at adding cabintop so I can perform from the cockpit ... any thoughts? (as I am fairly close to pulling the trigger on the Meissners ... and if I do I can also get single speed #16's for $65 ...

and did make a frivolous purchase ... found a blank teak nameboard for $30 ...










ended up sanding/smoothing out a good portion of the last varnish coat in the main cabin ... I believe I put too much varnish on ... will see how it looks in the morning ...


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

You need to embrace the grind out all the broken stuff concept NOW OR be faced with doing it later

It takes a LOT longer later


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

tommays said:


> g[/IMG]
> 
> You need to embrace the grind out all the broken stuff concept NOW OR be faced with doing it later
> 
> It takes a LOT longer later


Tom

I understand ... the problem is I don't own a grinder ...

seriously tho' ... I do understand ... and am trying to resolve all of the potential problems that I can ...

major issues still to address immediately ...

- crack in the companionway 
- seat in the cabin (tabbing giving way/wooden seat rotted in about a 1'x2' area)(although that might wait) ...
- 2 leaking ports
- adding electrical bilge pump(s)

these I plan to take care of along with rewiring and adding 12V DC and 120V AC panels and rewiring the entire boat before I haul out

other items to take care of ... perhaps after haulout

- water tank ... foot pump ... new water lines and hot water tank
- reconfigure lines and organize on deck (possibly adding deck winch(s)
- replace winches
- replace safety lines
- rebed stanchions and pulpits
- replace companionway door
- refurb companionway hatch
- add propane system for range/oven

and during the haulout ...

- scrape and paint bottom 
- compound/wax topside
- drop mast and replace ST 50 wind unit 
- add tricolor
- replace all standing rigging/turnbuckles
- replace all running rigging
- add roller furler
- inspect thru hulls
- inspect/replace spreaders 
- add mast light

planning on having the yard do the scrape and painting as I think it's money well spent (I have helped a friend - a Master Mariner - scrape and paint his woodern 32 footer twice ... but it's more job than I believe I can handle) and have someone who knows the Cal's very well (Steve Seals) lined up to oversea the standing rigging and add a mastplate as well ...

I'm hoping not to find any major surprises when she's hauled ...
and thinking about possibly just changing the chain plates in any event ...
I'd like to paint the mast and boom but that is out of the question ..

there are multiple other issues to deal with ...

- installing composting head
- cracks in the gelcoat along the main hatch and on the topside
- flushing the cockpit drains
- installing new interior lighting

the list seems endless and as I near completion of one task ... 3 more take it's place ...

I would indeed like to get some time sailing her (our best weather .. the San Francisco summer .. is the last 2 weeks of September and the 1st one of October) ...

thanks again for the reminder ... it's good to focus


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

After my second 4 day weekend almost exclusively working on the boat ... it was a break to get back to work this morning ... still managed to get back late in the afternoon to paint the battery box that's going together ... hopefully complete and mounted Friday ...

I did take a few minutes to try something ... frivolous but very rewarding ...

some 1000 grit sandpaper ... and about 10 minutes ... and voila!










just a test ... but I now am sure she will look sharp when complete ...

thank you Maine Sail ... where ever you are ...

and later this evening ... found this parked outside across the street










I'm sure she will be every bit as responsive and powerful ... in a different medium ...


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Rather a slow week working on the Cal ... but I did get a couple of hours out this afternoon sailing with a friend ...

the weather has been typical San Francisco summer like ... mid 60's so I did alot of resanding varnish work ...

I did a little experimenting and found that 600 grit wet/sanding will work to remove all the caked grime on the outside of the aluminum ports










thinking that using something like 300 ... then moving up to 1000 will probably do the trick nicely ...

does anyone know of a good aluminum polish to try to keep them looking shining while inhibiting abit the build-up ...

also got the V berth ready to start installing the cork tiles this week ...

and the main project now nearing completion ... battery box










hope to have batteries aboard by next weekend ... the comes the wiring and panels ...


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Cal28 said:


> I did a little experimenting and found that 600 grit wet/sanding will work to remove all the caked grime on the outside of the aluminum ports
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'd strongly recommend you not leave them bare aluminium after you bring them back. Bare aluminium will be a constant maintenance headache. Either get them re-anodized or prime them with zinc chromate and paint them.

If you must leave them bare, the best metal polish I have found is Solvol Autosol. Putting a heavy coat of wax on afterwards will help delay the onset of oxidation. Otherwise you'll have to polish them every week.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

SloopJonB said:


> I'd strongly recommend you not leave them bare aluminium after you bring them back. Bare aluminium will be a constant maintenance headache. Either get them re-anodized or prime them with zinc chromate and paint them.
> 
> If you must leave them bare, the best metal polish I have found is Solvol Autosol. Putting a heavy coat of wax on afterwards will help delay the onset of oxidation. Otherwise you'll have to polish them every week.


SloopJonB

Again ... thanks for the tip ...

Did some more research tonight and found this from Don Casey ...
"Most aluminum marine hardware is anodized, and polishing can remove this surface coating, leaving the aluminum unprotected. (Read the fine print: most polishes say "Do not use on anodized aluminum.") Instead of polish, try scrubbing the aluminum with fine bronze wool and a powdered cleanser (Ajax, Bar Keeper's Friend). Then give the clean surface a heavy coat of wax. This may not restore the aluminum to like-new luster, but it will retard future oxidation."

So I will try as well the bronze wool and Bar Keeper's Friend ... and then try both Solvol Autosol (found a site here in the states to buy a tube) as well as 
Collinite 885 Fleetwax ... and see what works best ...

I don't want to paint ... and much prefer the base aluminum ...

BTW ... didn't get anything done on the Cal today ... even tho' I took the afternoon off work ... but did manage to find an excellent viewing spot for the practice runs ...


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Feeling rather good that work is progressing ...yes slowly overall but progressing ... got 3 hours in this afternoon as the weather is finally turning warmer (high 60's) ... and didn't go out to see the ACWS ... battery box is complete and tomorrow morning will finally buy the 3 batteries for the bank and install ... finalized location of the 12V and 110V panels and now need to cut and build the hinged wooden frames to mount them in ... and actually start wiring ... with a little perseverance (and warm weather) I might have the aft bulkhead varnished and ready to install next week as well ...

working on-site does pose it's unique problems ...








but also has it's advantages ... I had two 'neighbors' at the marina come by in the last week and offer to buy the Cal ...


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Cal28 said:


> working on-site does pose it's unique problems ...


How do you get away with using that saw on the dock? From what my Cali friends have told me, putting sawdust in the water is virtually a capital crime there.


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## Cruiser2B (Jan 6, 2011)

I just cam across this post. I love watching old boats come back to life. Great job! 

I'll be out in SF in a few weeks i hope the Cup boats are there practicing when I am there.

Keep up the good work!


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## SlowButSteady (Feb 17, 2010)

SloopJonB said:


> How do you get away with using that saw on the dock? From what my Cali friends have told me, putting sawdust in the water is virtually a capital crime there.


I'm in California, and I see table saws being used on the docks all the time. It usually depends more on the marina, as many are getting so anal about people actually working on their boats. Basically, it's more of an aesthetic thing than an environmental problem. However, I have heard of people getting in trouble for putting paint and/or varnish dust into the water.


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## Seafarer (Aug 26, 2012)

You can have the aluminum powder-coated to protect it. This can be done in a wide variety of colors, including "aluminum" or simply clear. A shop with "Image Fusion" technology can even make them look like wood.

Personally, I'd save up for new opening ports from New Found Metals - Marine Hardware and Stainless Portlights , but that is a very pricey option.

Regarding that crack in the companionway- you are going to have to grind it out completely, feather the edges of the fiberglass at least 5:1, and add some new glass to it. Anything less is a patch and not a repair. You wont need any SS plates with this method, either.

What is the headroom on these boats when *not* under the companionway hatch? There is one for sale rather cheap "near" me and I'm looking for another Cal after my '73 Cal Cruising 35 was destroyed by T.S. Debby


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

SloopJonB said:


> How do you get away with using that saw on the dock? From what my Cali friends have told me, putting sawdust in the water is virtually a capital crime there.


SloopJonB

As SlowButSteady mentioned ... it is a matter that differs marina by marina ... although I have found that private marinas (a vast minority) are abit more liberal in their rules concerning people actually working on their boats (weekends seem to be filled with the sound of power tools) ... tho' still extremely vigilant as to any potential pollution (as they should be) ... btw sawdust will make an excellent medium (along with coconut husks) for the composting head soon to be installed ... the capital crime I see is that within a 1/2 mile there are 3 marinas with over 1200 boats ... and on 'any given Sunday' there might be only as many as 10 that find their way onto the Bay ... except for the Tuesday night beer can races when magically 15-20 suddenly appear ...



Cruiser2B said:


> I just cam across this post. I love watching old boats come back to life. Great job!
> 
> I'll be out in SF in a few weeks i hope the Cup boats are there practicing when I am there.
> 
> Keep up the good work!


Cruiser2B

Thanks ... alot of time and effort has been put into this project ... before any work was really started ... not in any way as knowledgeable or talent as so many here ... but enjoying it immensely ... even the challenges

btw ... there's another ACWS event here in San Francisco during fleet week Oct 2nd thru 7th ... hopefully your trip will bring you here that week



SlowButSteady said:


> I'm in California, and I see table saws being used on the docks all the time. It usually depends more on the marina, as many are getting so anal about people actually working on their boats. Basically, it's more of an aesthetic thing than an environmental problem. However, I have heard of people getting in trouble for putting paint and/or varnish dust into the water.


SlowButSteady

That's what I have found as well



Seafarer said:


> You can have the aluminum powder-coated to protect it. This can be done in a wide variety of colors, including "aluminum" or simply clear. A shop with "Image Fusion" technology can even make them look like wood.
> 
> Personally, I'd save up for new opening ports from New Found Metals - Marine Hardware and Stainless Portlights , but that is a very pricey option.
> 
> ...


Seafarer

Thanks for the link ... I have looked at those (and most aftermarket mfg's of ports) ... I'd like to keep the ports original (yes ... one of ~those~) but just bring them back to life ... planning on replacing the with automotive safety glass ... a big project I know ... I'll look into powdercoating them ...

and yes ... planning on performing a full repair before I mount the aft bulkhead ... (thanks SloopJonB) ...

As for the headroom when NOT under the companionway hatch ... I believe it is somewhere around 5'4" ... but the good thing is that most of the walkspace in the main cabin IS under that hatch ... I'll measure it today and let you know tonight ... hope it works out for you ...


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

A long weekend and actually got alot accomplished ...

The battery box is complete ... and awaiting batteries ...








Much thought was given to the placement ... originally the battery box was located on the centerline beneath the aft cabin seat ... moving further aft (behind the rudder post and up against the lazerette) transfers about 150 lbs much further aft ... and initially I was hesitant to do this ... until I remembered that when I bought her she had 6 filled sandbags in the aft lazerette to keep her bow up ... and then realized that filling the water tank in the V berth will add another 150 forward and adding the refrigerator in the head area adds another 80 or so forward ... I don't in any way shape or form even pretend to know anything about sailboat design ... but I feel that shift won't be a negative ... I guess I'll find out soon enough ...

Also got the first run of cork panels cut and fitted for the V berth ...








again ... chosing the cork was not a snap decision ... as last year a layer of reflectix worked well to insulate as well as help keep moisture from forming in winter ... but I do think that keeping the air moving and heated also played a major part in that ...
plan on attaching to the hull with liquid cement in the V berth ... the head compartment ... behind the sliding lockers/cabinets in the main cabin and in both 1/4 berths ... which will add about 140 lbs but also add a much richer look and feel ... along with deading abit of noise ...

and cut both the opening and the wooden mounting plate for the new 12V and 110V electrical panels ...








now it's varnishing ... and finding some hinges to mount the wooden plate in order to allow it to swing open for access ... and then the wiring starts ...

now ... a quick question for any and all ...

about the only thing that the PO did to her ... was add this circular cut piece of lexan to the forward hatch cover ...








it does allow abit of light into the V berth ... though it was rather quickly and poorly done ... in my dreams I had envisioned building a boxed teak hatchcover with a lexan top but that would change the entire look and just ... wouldn't work ... as there is ample room on the forward deck (one of the hallmarks of the flushdeck) and as I am planning on running the halyard lines back to the cockpit and not raising and lowering at the mast ... I am wondering if there is anything I can do to perhaps ... add abit more lexan (a new piece) ... with perhaps with a leveling cut to make the edge less abrupt ... and still maintain the strength to hold a person's weight should they walk on it? ... any and all thoughts and comments welcome ...


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## Mobnets (Apr 24, 2011)

RE: Lexan disk in hatch cover:

How about replacing it with a round solar ventilator/fan like you see retrofitted into quite a few hatches?

Mobnets
1973 Paceship Chance 32/28


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

The procedure for doing that is detailed in several boat improvement book. I'd advise against using Lexan - it scratches very easily. Its reputation for being bulletproof misleads many into thinking it's better than acrylic for that purpose but it isn't. Most commercial hatches use acrylic because it is plenty strong and stands up better over time.

Take the existing hatch to a plastics shop and ask them what the thickest acrylic is that will bend to that curvature. I'd guess 1/4" but 3/8" might do it as well. Remember that the curvature will add a lot of stiffness to the final product. Use a dark tint - I prefer grey to bronze as it creates a coolish light compared to the dirty looking and hot golden light that bronze tint creates. Both look the same black from outside. You can probably do the job with a piece from their offcuts.

Cut the lens to fit to the edge of the hatch and bevel or round over the edge for the taper you referred to.

Next, mark the underside of the existing hatch when closed to give you the outline of the curb - you need this to ensure the fasteners don't interfere with the curb.

Lay out your fastener positions neatly and symmetrically on the underside of the hatch. Clamp the acrylic in position on the hatch and drill through both pieces. Remove the lens and overdrill the holes slightly so expansion in the sun won't crack the lens.

Cut out the opening in the hatch, leaving an appropriate shelf for the lens to sit on with enough width for the fasteners. If you are nervous about strength you can cut two openings and leave a strip of glass on the centerline but this isn't necessary.

Dry mount the lens using round head fasteners (NOT countersunk flatheads - they'll crack the lens) I find S/S Truss head machine screws perfect for this - they have a larger diameter, lower profile head than conventional roundheads.

Trace around the mask on the underside of the acrylic, carefully score it with a razor knife and remove the mask edge, leaving the center masked.

Wipe the hatch mounting flange with acetone to ensure it's clean. Put sealant on the unmasked edge - Dow 795 is perfect for this. Fasten the lens down on the centerline fore & aft and then add fasteners alternately, moving out to the sides. Don't over tighten - just get them snug and ensure good squeeze out - 795 is an *adhesive* sealant used for glazing in curtain wall construction.

When cured, clean up the excess sealant with a razor knife, remove the mask and remount the hatch.

Et Voila - a huge visual improvement and lots more light below.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

Seafarer said:


> What is the headroom on these boats when *not* under the companionway hatch? There is one for sale rather cheap "near" me and I'm looking for another Cal after my '73 Cal Cruising 35 was destroyed by T.S. Debby


Seafarer

I forgot to measure it Sunday ... but with the good weather got a couple hours work in tonight ... and remembered ...

on the centerline ... headroom is 5' 11.5" under the main hatch ... and 5' 8.5" NOT under the companionway hatch ... remember that everything is shifted abit to starboard on the interior ... so take away up to 2" as you measure closer to starboard ...

still ... as I again say ... there is more cabin room and space in a Cal 28 flushdeck ... especially one without an inboard ... than in most 32's and many 34's ...


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

SloopJonB said:


> The procedure for doing that is detailed in several boat improvement book. I'd advise against using Lexan - it scratches very easily. Its reputation for being bulletproof misleads many into thinking it's better than acrylic for that purpose but it isn't. Most commercial hatches use acrylic because it is plenty strong and stands up better over time.
> 
> Take the existing hatch to a plastics shop and ask them what the thickest acrylic is that will bend to that curvature. I'd guess 1/4" but 3/8" might do it as well. Remember that the curvature will add a lot of stiffness to the final product. Use a dark tint - I prefer grey to bronze as it creates a coolish light compared to the dirty looking and hot golden light that bronze tint creates. Both look the same black from outside. You can probably do the job with a piece from their offcuts.
> 
> ...


SloopJonB

Thanks immensely ... for taking the time to write this ... and explain ... took me a couple of readings to fully understand ... looked at it all tonight ... and not only is it very doable ... I now believe I can do it myself ... AND ... more importantly ... it is EXACTLY what I was looking for ...

as you might suspect ... I am rather short on experience ... and try to do my homework before I ask something here ... got more than a few books that I have read on maintainance and repair and utilize the internet ... almost ad nausiam before actually tackling something ... wanting to understand while I do it ...

if you don't mind ... I have two questions ...

1) ... I would imagine that the cut on the existing hatch would be somewhere around 1.5" inside the line of the curb ... and the placement of the fasteners centered on a line .75" inside ... ?

2) ... spacing between the fasteners would be approx every ... 2.5" ?

I am curious as to your recommendation for the dark tint ... I also prefer the soft white of the grey to the yellow colored light of the bronze ... but was thinking about leaving it clear ...

Once again ... thank you for your time ... it has definitely moved this far up on my priority list ...


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Cal28 said:


> SloopJonB
> 
> 1) ... I would imagine that the cut on the existing hatch would be somewhere around 1.5" inside the line of the curb ... and the placement of the fasteners centered on a line .75" inside ... ?


That sounds reasonable - it will vary depending on the width of the curb on your boat, how much the flange of the fiberglass hatch overhangs the curb and so forth. You want to keep the fasteners as far out as possible to the edge of the fiberglass hatch without the nuts underneath hitting the curb



> 2) ... spacing between the fasteners would be approx every ... 2.5" ?


Sounds reasonable - you don't want to overdo the number of fasteners though - 2 1/2" or 3" should be good - choose the spacing around there that will give you an even and symmetrical pattern. Keep in mind that the Dow 795 is adhesive, not just a sealant. Most commercial aluminium hatches have the lens simply glued in place with it or something similar. You really only need the fasteners to hold the plexi down to the curved surface of your plastic hatch



> I am curious as to your recommendation for the dark tint ... I also prefer the soft white of the grey to the yellow colored light of the bronze ... but was thinking about leaving it clear ...
> 
> Once again ... thank you for your time ... it has definitely moved this far up on my priority list ...


The dark tint simply looks better, especially from the outside. Clear lets too much light & heat in and simply doesn't look as good as the tinted stuff. I have "opaqued" clear plexi on my boat - looks similar to if it had been sandblasted - and it doesn't look good. I plan to change it to tinted but the nearly $1K cost for the plexi is keeping it on a back burner - my hatches are BIG - 36" square lens on the forehatch alone. I'll need a whole sheet of 1/2" or 3/4" to replace mine.

By the way, the "grey" tint I recommended looks about like the colour of cigarette smoke from the inside.


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## Cal28 (Jul 6, 2009)

ok ... just a quick note as the focus currently is on the electrical system and I saw this ...

Two DM 145w Polycrystalline Solar Panels - 290W Total for Only $0.82 per Watt!

I've read just enough about solar panels to make myself dangerous ...

anyone have any experience using panels from DM Solar?


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## Ritchard (Aug 15, 2011)

I'd like to add the tiniest bit of additional advice to Sloop's hatch instructions (which were thorough and generous, BTW). Anytime you use adhesive or sealant, mask off anything nearby you don't want to get gooped up with sealant. Preventing is 1/10th the work of cleaning.

I was thinking especially of the hatch top, outboard of where the new plastic will overlap. A bunch of goo will squeeze out when you tighten the fasteners. Much better to have it squeeze out onto your best friend the blue masking tape rather than your gelcoat. 

As for fasteners, a piece that size I'd use a total of 12. One in each corner, two evenly spaced on each side. EIDT TO ADD: No, forget that, still 12, but three along each edge, one in the middle, two more nicely spaced up to an inch from the corner. Depending on the materials and the situation, one right in the corner could cause a stress crack.

Oh, and maybe a quick shot of white paint inside the hatch where you have cut thru the glass for a nice finished look.


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