# Best boat for 25 grand for coastal cruising and going from east coast to Caribbean



## sk8sn0surf

Hey, I'm looking to buy a boat to sail from the East coast of the United States to the Caribbean to do some island hopping. I have about 25 grand to spend and about 5 grand for repairs and outfitting. Can you guys recommend a year range, and/or make that I should be looking at? I'd like something around at least 35 feet. Is this a good size for my purpose? Does the boat need to have decent blue water capabilities to make it from Florida to the Bahamas? Any necessary features of the boat I should be looking for or should spend some money on after the purchase?


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## Donna_F

Hi and welcome to SailNet. I hope you have a strong constitution for some of the answers you will undoubtedly receive.

Firstly, do you know how to sail? What's your sailing CV?


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## sk8sn0surf

I have experience sailing on lakes and bays, skippering hobie 16s, and small 18-25ft monohulls, as well as crewing on 30-35 foot monohulls. About 4 years of experience total with 30ish day sails under my belt. Also have asa101 and 103 certs.


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## Donna_F

Great. That will give everyone a place to start. Thanks.


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## JimsCAL

As I'm sure others will say, that budget is a bit tight. However to try to answer your question, if I were looking to do what your propose, I would want something in the mid-30 foot range or larger. A bit smaller would be OK for hopping to the Bahamas, but I would like something more substantial for continuing on to the islands. With your budget, your are probably looking at boats from the 70s and early 80s. And with only $5k for refit, you are going to have to find a boat with no major issues. That budget won't even buy a new set of sails for a 35 footer.


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## bigdogandy

Here are a few suggestions.....and represent the range of size, age, and design that you'll need to evaluate for your particular needs and aspirations.

1979 Morgan Out Island 33 Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

1978 Bristol 29.9 Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

1987 Catalina 30 Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

I think these particular boats could take you on a cruise through the Bahamas, depending on their actual condition and your actual skill level. All will undoubtedly need some cleaning up, have some deferred maintenance, and probably have some repair issues to address. And these are just some examples of the many, many boats out there that could take you on that trip safely.....your skill and experience are likely going to be more of a factor in determining how safe and enjoyable an adventure you are going to have.

$5k can disappear pretty fast when you're talking repairs and upgrades, but if you do the work yourself and scout places like Sailorman for deals on used stuff you can save a lot of cash.

Also - don't forget to budget $500-$800 for survey and haul-out when you find one you want to make an offer on.

Good luck with the search!


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## sk8sn0surf

Thanks for the advice guys. Should I be looking for a minimum water and fuel tank size?


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## socal c25

Your best bet is to look for a boat that someone out grew and is willing to deal on it, look to spend 10k to 15k leaving you with a little bit more to upgrade and repair with. good luck and keep us posted on your venture. Check out "wicked salty" on youtube.


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## BarryL

Hey,

I would suggest an o'day 34-35. The 34 is definitely in your budget, the 35 may be a little tougher. I sold my 35 last year. One of the previous owners spent the winter down in florida one year and the carib the next. In the summer they returned to the north east. My boat carried 100 gallons of water (2 35 gallon tanks and 1 30 gallon bladder), had Sea Frost engine driven refrigeration, 3 batteries, bimini, dodger, hot water, 2 5 gallon propane bottles, etc. 

The 35 is big enough to carry a lot of gear, small enough enough to manage short handed, and strong enough to handle some bad weather. I would not want to cross an ocean in an O'day 35, but a run down the coast and then across to the carib, sure!

Good luck,
Barry


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## travlin-easy

Go with the Morgan 33 Out Island - best of the lot! 

Gary


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## ObsessionSTJ

Hi there!
We bought our 1980 37C Hunter for 20K two years ago. She was solid, had decent sails and no major work to do. (Survey came back better than average for her age.) We sailed her from North Carolina to the USVI. (our blog is Mountains and Seashore if you are interested.) She did great. My husband is very handy to have around though  and is able to figure things out on the fly with regards to repairs. A must with an older boat (who am I kidding, with any boat.  So that being said, sailboats are out there in your budget, just take your time and find the best buy for your money.

Happy sailing.
Camile


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## Tenoch

Seems most of us will recommend our boat as the best boat for you (so obviously a Hallberg Rassy 31 is the only choice), but in all seriousness, there are countless boats out there that would fit your criteria - almost any coastal cruiser can make that trip. If you want to eventually cross an ocean you might think of something built for it. I would agree that finding something slightly cheaper and saving 10k for outfitting and upgrades might be better. There are plenty of boats in the 20k range.


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## sk8sn0surf

Thanks guys, any must haves in terms of gear? Tank sizes? A/C? Solar? Generator? Dinghy? Etc...


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## sailpower

sk8sn0surf said:


> Thanks for the advice guys. Should I be looking for a minimum water and fuel tank size?


Yes, absolutely.


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## bigdogandy

sk8sn0surf said:


> Thanks guys, any must haves in terms of gear? Tank sizes? A/C? Solar? Generator? Dinghy? Etc...


Considering what you've described as your intended cruising plans, some of the "must-haves" I would look for include:

- a shallow draft boat - ideally less than 4' draft;
- a minimum of two weeks worth of fresh water tankage (assume min. 2 gal/day);
- a working electric fresh water pump and at least one manual pump (ideally at the galley sink);
- enough fuel storage for a minimum of 200 miles under power (tank size will vary depending on the engine, but 25 gallons is probably a good bare minimum);
- a minimum 20 gallon holding tank and a legal Y-valve and overboard discharge setup;
- enough solar or engine charging and battery capacity to run your required electrical loads (this will vary greatly depending on whether you need refrigeration or not and if so how efficient your refrigeration is - on my boat I have 2 GC8 golf cart batteries but no solar yet, so I have to either run the engine every day to charge the batteries or plug into shore power if I am running the fridge....if no fridge I can be out for 3-4 days without having to run the engine or plug in);
- a good dinghy with a reliable outboard;
- a working stove and safe fuel storage;
- sails in working condition;
- an operable engine that has been reasonably well maintained;
- a "new generation" anchor with at least 25' of chain and 200' of rope rode in good condition;
- nav lights that work, including a masthead anchor light;
- a working VHF radio with masthead antenna;
- a working depth sounder;
- a handheld GPS at a minimum, and a helm-mounted chartplotter is a borderline Must - have / nice to have, in my opinion;
- 2 working bilge pumps with reliable float switches and at least one manual backup;


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## captain44

You will no doubt continue to receive all kinds of advice, but much of what you have asked has been well considered and published in numerous books which may be a better place to start--that and perusing yachtworld will help you understand the market. But I think you are asking both too many questions and the wrong questions. Don't even think about the specific boat--there are waay too many choices and don't even think about features. In above comments you are told about a stove, sails, gps, vhf bilge pumps etc etc--all of which can be changed or replaced. With your budget you will be buying an older and probably well used boat. How handy are you? Can you fix and repair and install items? Outside of hull configuration and in many cases-tankage, just about anything can be changed with time and money. Get yourself a lot more experience--go sailing and more sailing on as many boats as you can. That will help you learn what you need to know. Nothing is more important than cockpit and deck layout because you are getting a boat to sail. Are you comfy at the wheel? Is the boom going to smack you? Can you see above the cabin to the bow? Are you comfortable sailing? And finally, even if you can buy the boat you want--can you really afford it? Can you really afford to keep her up and prepare her for what you need to do? That answer depends on many things and your budget is ok IF you are really handy and resourceful--otherwise, it may be way too low.


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## Solar54

If the majority of your estimated sailing is going to be short hops, then you could consider the "coastal cruisers" which usually have less tankage. You can always carry extra cans of fuel and water for the occasional long hops. If your desire is mostly long trips and independency the boats with big fuel and water storage would be better for you.


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## sk8sn0surf

captain44 said:


> You will no doubt continue to receive all kinds of advice, but much of what you have asked has been well considered and published in numerous books which may be a better place to start--that and perusing yachtworld will help you understand the market. But I think you are asking both too many questions and the wrong questions. Don't even think about the specific boat--there are waay too many choices and don't even think about features. In above comments you are told about a stove, sails, gps, vhf bilge pumps etc etc--all of which can be changed or replaced. With your budget you will be buying an older and probably well used boat. How handy are you? Can you fix and repair and install items? Outside of hull configuration and in many cases-tankage, just about anything can be changed with time and money. Get yourself a lot more experience--go sailing and more sailing on as many boats as you can. That will help you learn what you need to know. Nothing is more important than cockpit and deck layout because you are getting a boat to sail. Are you comfy at the wheel? Is the boom going to smack you? Can you see above the cabin to the bow? Are you comfortable sailing? And finally, even if you can buy the boat you want--can you really afford it? Can you really afford to keep her up and prepare her for what you need to do? That answer depends on many things and your budget is ok IF you are really handy and resourceful--otherwise, it may be way too low.


Thanks, I know my questions are broad, and can have hundreds of different valid answers. I'm just trying to get a good understanding of where to get started and what more specific questions to ask next. Can you recommend some of the books you mentioned to get me started?


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## hellosailor

If the standing rigging is +10 years old, replacing it might consume most of your $5k refit budget. If it is 20 years old...I'd replace it without question.

You might want to look carefully at the age and condition of any boat, and then actually get numbers for what it will need, before committing to it. Sails...also can be expensive but sometimes are quite usable. Older boats often need batteries and electric or fridge updates as well, and if the rudder has any hairline cracks that have allowed it to become saturated? That can eat the five grand in one shot. A reliable rudder and standing rigging can be priceless.


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## jwing

Go to your favorite online book seller and look up:

Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere

and

Twenty Affordable Sailboats To Take You Anywhere


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## misfits

JimsCAL said:


> And with only $5k for refit, you are going to have to find a boat with no major issues. That budget won't even buy a new set of sails for a 35 footer.


Jim has raised a real good point when one looks at the costs to upgrade boats in the 35 foot range. I can purchase new sails for my 28' in the $2.5-3K range. The larger the boat the more it's going to cost you for upgrades, dockage, insurance, you get the picture. You didn't mention if your escape will be just you or you're taking the whole clan along. That should be the deciding factor in what size boat you're looking for.

There are many folks out there cruising with boats in the 25-30 foot range.


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## sk8sn0surf

My plan is for it to be just me for now, but I would like for something big enough to live comfortably on for a year or two and to bring friends along for overnight and extended sails.


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## seaner97

Look old. An alberg 35, Bristol 35, Pearson 35 or 36, or other similar boats can be had for way less in good condition, which would allow for better upgrades.


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## asdf38

It's a little interesting to me when someone specifies a specific size, like 35'. Boat design has changed a lot and 35' from the 60's isn't the same as 35 from the 80's or 2000's. 

For your fixed budget you're going to have a choice between older 35's, or newer 30-32's which are going to offer similar accommodations. From a purely practical point of view, don't rule out the smaller newer boat which will have smaller fees, and smaller sails etc, but perhaps similar speed and accommodations.


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## sk8sn0surf

asdf38 said:


> It's a little interesting to me when someone specifies a specific size, like 35'. Boat design has changed a lot and 35' from the 60's isn't the same as 35 from the 80's or 2000's.
> 
> For your fixed budget you're going to have a choice between older 35's, or newer 30-32's which are going to offer similar accommodations. From a purely practical point of view, don't rule out the smaller newer boat which will have smaller fees, and smaller sails etc, but perhaps similar speed and accommodations.


Thanks! I'll definitely consider something smaller and newer.


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## aeventyr60

Don't over look the well equipped older boat either. You will be surprised how much it costs to "equip" that "new" boat for cruising.


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## Faster

.. and keep in mind that the 'volume' of many of these newer boats comes partly from increased beam and more beam further aft, but it also comes at the considerable cost of usable storage space.

When they push the furniture out to the hull perimeter leaving room to dance on the cabin sole, there's nothing behind the seatbacks but a glass wall. If multi-week cruises are on the agenda, this can be a serious limitation.

Our boat has a tight, cosy interior with the settees pushed towards the middle and is far from 'roomy' but we have gobs of storage cabinets above and behind the settees. We cruise up to 8 weeks each summer, we need it. Every time we get tempted and look at something newer my wife wonders 'where would we put that? or that?'

Another thing to look for with these recent palatial cabins is 'how far can you fall at 30 deg heel?' Are there sufficient handholds for anything but the boatshow floor?


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## Pegu club

seaner97 said:


> Look old. An alberg 35, Bristol 35, Pearson 35 or 36, or other similar boats can be had for way less in good condition, which would allow for better upgrades.


I second this, the above mentioned boats are well built and there are a good number of them to choose from, and many are in good and sailable shape right now. jmo.


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## JimsCAL

Faster said:


> .. and keep in mind that the 'volume' of many of these newer boats comes partly from increased beam and more beam further aft, but it also comes at the considerable cost of usable storage space.
> 
> When they push the furniture out to the hull perimeter leaving room to dance on the cabin sole, there's nothing behind the seatbacks but a glass wall. If multi-week cruises are on the agenda, this can be a serious limitation.
> 
> Our boat has a tight, cosy interior with the settees pushed towards the middle and is far from 'roomy' but we have gobs of storage cabinets above and behind the settees. We cruise up to 8 weeks each summer, we need it. Every time we get tempted and look at something newer my wife wonders 'where would we put that? or that?'
> 
> Another thing to look for with these recent palatial cabins is 'how far can you fall at 30 deg heel?' Are there sufficient handholds for anything but the boatshow floor?


This is so true. The designers are trying to sell the boat based on how it shows at the dock. My 1980s vintage Cal 33 has far better storage than many larger newer boats I looked at.


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## seaner97

JimsCAL said:


> This is so true. The designers are trying to sell the boat based on how it shows at the dock. My 1980s vintage Cal 33 has far better storage than many larger newer boats I looked at.


Can't blame the designers- it's what sells when people are short sighted. Their job is to make the boats roll out of the yard, not force people to think. The best do both, but that's a hard job. IMO the major improvements are in sailing performance (rig, keel, rudder) over that timeframe, not so much in accommodations. I mean, it's a *boat*. You're going to be cramped either for storage or dancing room even in the modern designs. There is only so much room you can squeeze in.


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## sk8sn0surf

How does this boat look?

newyork.craigslist DOT org/lgi/boa/5039356840.html

Appears to be well priced for the year with alot of new equipment on board.


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## Faster

sk8sn0surf said:


> How does this boat look?
> 
> newyork.craigslist DOT org/lgi/boa/5039356840.html
> 
> Appears to be well priced for the year with alot of new equipment on board.


Looks like a bad link..


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## sk8sn0surf

SailNet wont let me post links yet. Just replace the word DOT with an actual dot.


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## sk8sn0surf

newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/boa/5039356840.html


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## RTB

It looks well cared for. New bottom paint going on soon, too. Might be a nice buy.

Ralph


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## sk8sn0surf

Would a 5 and half foot draft be fine for the Caribbean?


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## RTB

You're pretty much good anywhere with 5 1/2' draft. No problem in the Bahamas. 

Ralph


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## travlin-easy

There are a few locations in the ICW that 5-1/2 would be a real problem. 

Gary


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## RTB

travlineasy said:


> There are a few locations in the ICW that 5-1/2 would be a real problem.
> 
> Gary


Gary, I don't think 5 1/2' would be a deal breaker (if it were me). I like my 5' draft, and doubt another 6" would have caused me problems anywhere on the ICW between Texas and Georgia. Yep, found a spot or two where I should have waited on the tide. Just before Fernandina going north, and again around St. Simons. We didn't cruise the Gulf side of the Keys because of draft, but I'm chicken. I did run aground in Boot Key looking for my mooring, so it's pretty easy to run aground just about anywhere if you aren't paying attention (or if it's dark where your head is - in my case).

Ralph


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## azguy

Honestly you can do everything you want on a 30ft, getting to islands is about weather windows, not boat size IMHO.

Check out Wicked Salty videos on You Tube, before going any further...

I'd also shoot for 5 ft draft, or less....


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## JonEisberg

travlineasy said:


> There are a few locations in the ICW that 5-1/2 would be a real problem.
> 
> Gary


I believe Ralph is right, there are very few places where that draft is a problem, at least at anything other than the time of low water...

I certainly wouldn't advise the OP to give too much priority to the possibility of having to wait for mid-tide to make it over the hump north of the Ben Sawyer bridge in his choice of a boat for this venture...


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## TQA

I have cruised the Bahamas in a boat with 5'6" draft. Some restrictions in the Abacos but basically no probs.


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## JonEisberg

TQA said:


> I have cruised the Bahamas in a boat with 5'6" draft. Some restrictions in the Abacos but basically no probs.


No question, an extreme shoal draft can be nice to have in many parts of the Bahamas. But I think many folks tend to overestimate its importance, I'm almost 5' 6" in cruising trim, and I've never found it to be that limiting...

And, I've got to believe that one of the primary reasons some cruisers intending to make it out to the Eastern Caribbean never wind up getting much beyond Georgetown, is due to the fact they're sailing shoal draft boats that often won't go to weather worth a damn  Those deeper keels can pay off in spades, when it comes to having to beat your way E into the trades... Shoal draft is great if you're never planning to venture past the Bahamas, but for heading further E, I think a more weatherly design is of greater importance...


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## Faster

I often get the sense that many people who say they plan to cruise the east coast, Bahamas and 'hop' over to the Eastern Caribbean chain fail to realize that you're looking at near 1000 NM to weather in robust conditions..


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## RTB

Faster said:


> I often get the sense that many people who say they plan to cruise the east coast, Bahamas and 'hop' over to the Eastern Caribbean chain fail to realize that you're looking at near 1000 NM to weather in robust conditions..


Anyone will figure that out long before they make Georgetown. Hey, it's a nice trip coming back though.

EDIT: Thinking about your post, I agree that many people really haven't studied the winds and other weather for such a trip. I fell into that category before we made our first trip to the Bahamas. I don't know if people realize how much the wind blows in the Bahamas. And it's a beat to weather almost every day going down the Exuma chain. It was far from being "smooth sailing in paradise", and not what I expected. At least the water is beautiful, but being beat up is still the same as anywhere else. Also, after reading Van Sant's book, it doesn't get an easier heading to the leewards/windwards. I don't think most newbs/dreamers consider the long offshore (I-65) route, because they don't have the experience for long passages. So, that leaves a long slog getting to the islands. Anyway, something for the OP to think about for a while.

Ralph


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## smurphny

Most of the stories about shallow water on the ICW are from folks who have failed to stay in the channel or have not bothered to read the latest CG Notice to Mariners. I have a 5.5' draft and have not encountered any problems. The way the boat sails and its capsize ratio are more important than a shallow draft. If you plan on ocean sailing, seaworthiness has got to trump the other considerations.


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## RTB

Here ya go - 1980 Hunter 36 Cherubini sailboat for sale in Florida

No Hunter bashing, pleeeeese....this is a good boat for Florida to Bahamas.

Ralph


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## travlin-easy

Smurf, I hit bottom 3 times in the ICW at low water, once in NC and twice in SC and I only draw 4 feet. Jon Eisman was right behind me one day and I managed to slide through the mud, but he drew 5.5 feet and was stuck in mid channel. There are several anchorages that were once fairly deep, but over the past decade, the vast majority of the ones I've used in the past in powerboats have silted in badly near the entrances, so much so that high water provided the only access.

All the best,

Gary


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## RTB

No doubt, parts of the AICW are challenging with almost any typical sailboat draft. You just have to play the (big) tides. One reason we planned to go outside from St. Simon to Hilton Head, SC. It's just part of cruising the ICW, if that is what you choose to do. We honestly got tired at one point, and never got past Brunswick, Georgia. Next time, we'll get farther north, one way or the other, tides and skinny water be damned! I love a challenge.

I wouldn't choose a boat based on draft, within reason, unless skinny water was a major concern for my cruising grounds. No doubt, a swing keel with 2' draft would have come in handy a few times for us, but we managed with what we had. 

The OP is sailing from Florida to the Bahamas, so not a big deal anyway.

Ralph


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## captain44

To the OP Are you getting the sense that there are as many opinions as there are boats? It is amazing that the boating world is really, really tiny yet there are hundreds if not thousands of boats for sale--in such a wide variety of layouts, drafts, capabilities, price etc. With the tens of millions of automobiles out there, think about this. So again--don't get bogged down in details or specifics. Just lay out basic parameters and remember again you cannot change hull configuration, keel, deck layout or draft but you can pretty much change anything else--perhaps even tankage although not easily but as others have said, strap on jerry jugs. It seems to me that your budget is a constraining factor--much more so than anything else. As I said, you may be able to buy a boat but can you afford it and do you have that cruising kitty??? You will get overwhelmed by options and by the many opinions offered here--don't even dare to bring up anchors! Just go see a lot of boats but narrow down your preferences in terms of overall length and price. Any boat you buy will have some kind of compromise. Just go and buy something! And then in a year or two you'll know if it was right or not. Otherwise a year or two will have gone by and you will not have learned if it was right or wrong...unless you used that time to sail a lot of boats.


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## smurphny

travlineasy said:


> Smurf, I hit bottom 3 times in the ICW at low water, once in NC and twice in SC and I only draw 4 feet. Jon Eisman was right behind me one day and I managed to slide through the mud, but he drew 5.5 feet and was stuck in mid channel. There are several anchorages that were once fairly deep, but over the past decade, the vast majority of the ones I've used in the past in powerboats have silted in badly near the entrances, so much so that high water provided the only access.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Gary


I should have qualified that by saying that I have not been through the S.Carolina or Georgia sections. I go out at Beaufort and back in at St. John's. I have also not been through the Dismal Swamp leg. So I can't comment on the entire ICW. On the parts I have been through, after doing lots of research and carefully marking my charts where reported shallow stretches lurk, I have almost always found that the warnings/reports are just not true. There is plenty of water as long as I heed the buoys, NOT the charts and stay in the channel. The CG seems to do a damned good job of keeping buoys where they need to be. I've almost been run down by Hammer a number of times Coming north just a few weeks ago, a guy in a southbound boat yelled across with an urgent message that it was very shallow at 81C by Matanzas Inlet. I went through 15 minutes later and never saw less than 11' feet of water. Go figure. People get out of the channel and do not like to admit it and therefore say they've discovered a shallow spot. Unfortunately, they then report it to someone who puts that bad info on some website


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## hellsop

travlineasy said:


> There are a few locations in the ICW that 5-1/2 would be a real problem.
> 
> Gary





RTB said:


> Gary, I don't think 5 1/2' would be a deal breaker (if it were me). I like my 5' draft, and doubt another 6" would have caused me problems anywhere on the ICW between Texas and Georgia. Yep, found a spot or two where I should have waited on the tide.


That's pretty much the deal. It's doable, but one does have to pay attention and plan, and the chance of bouncing over something if you DON'T goes up. There's even places where a Gemini with the boards up (18" under the hulls, 24" under the prop) will have problems if you're wandering.


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## JonEisberg

hellsop said:


> That's pretty much the deal. It's doable, but one does have to pay attention and plan, and the chance of bouncing over something if you DON'T goes up. *There's even places where a Gemini with the boards up (18" under the hulls, 24" under the prop) will have problems if you're wandering.*


_"Wandering" ?_

Sounds more like _Dozing Off_, to me...


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## Already There

The Pearson 365 is a reasonably priced, well built and easy sailing boat. Built from 1976 to 1983. Approximately 18K Lbs. dry, 11'6" beam, 150 gallons of fresh water, 50 gallons diesel fuel, hot water, usually powered with a Perkins 4108 or a Westerbeke 40-50 HP. Most are ketch rigs and a few sloops were built as well, shoal draft (4.5'), and are very stable for a coastal cruiser. Several currently for sale around 18k to 35K, the latter being well maintained and ready to sail. But as you probably know, all boats need continuous work. If you are handy you can really benefit by getting one that needs a little TLC. Always proceed with caution, and get a survey! It will serve you well. Good luck and enjoy which ever boat you end up with. It is always exciting to find "the one"!


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## FloridaBoy

Captain44 might have it right. I looked for new engine, sails, electronics, recently hauled, new rigging and I got real lucky. But now, after 11 months of boat ownership I look at boats a whole different way. I'm thinking the only real way is to jump in with what you gotta have and you figure out the rest in a year. By the way, I was on a tighter budget than the OP. The boat I bought is mostly cosmetic work. Fixing up the interior, cushions. Sanding , painting, varnishing. But, she's ready to go, today. Haven't got much storage, working on that. But it's cool. Give me another 12 months! Good luck, that Cherubini is sweet inside. Wish mine looked like that. Kevin


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## travlin-easy

Hellsop, wandering is about the last thing anyone should do in the ICW. Many of the places I went through were so narrow I had to nearly ground the boat in order to allow a barge and tug pass from the opposite direction. I could almost smell the gelcoat on my hull burning when they passed within mere inches while I rested against a shoreline stump. Go out of the channel, especially in SC and Georgia and you will definitely be hard aground.

All the best,

Gary


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## sk8sn0surf

Thanks for all the helpful info. I know someone mentioned the Bristol 29.9 in an earlier post. It appears to have a reputation of being a solid boat with offshore passages being done as well. My short term cruise plan is to go down the east coast to the Caribbean and afterwards thru the panama canal and head west. Is this a reasonable boat for offshore passages, given the right re-fit? Whats everyones thought on this boat or similar sized bristols? They seem to be right in my price range


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## bigdogandy

From the two I've had the chance to sail or look at closely I think the Bristol 29.9s were well designed and solidly built, but like any other boat of that vintage you'll need to pay close attention to the condition of the boat, gear, and systems, and be prepared to add or replace obsolete or worn-out stuff.

FWIW....link to cool video of someone cruising on similar sized boat and apparently having a great experience......


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## sk8sn0surf

bigdogandy said:


>


I love that video. Gets me so pumped! Thats exactly what I want to live like and he inspired me to go a little on the smaller side too.


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## redfishnc

Aloha 32, Endeavor 32, Catalina 30. its a great time to cherry pick and with 25k you can get started. Like someone earlier mentioned you might want to have 25% of that 25K for surprises.


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## captain44

Tons of books by Ference Mate', Hiscocks, Roths, Pardeys and many others--and of course Calder...but check them out --most of your questions have been addressed and answered in many other places--really--don't focus on a specific boat until the end of your search as many--yes many will fit your criteria. If you don't like the boat--get another one!


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## pappa

travlineasy said:


> Go with the Morgan 33 Out Island - best of the lot!
> 
> Gary


I really agree with you on Morgans designs; intelligent compromises by a talented designer. I am selling my landlubbers paradise and going to sea again if all goes well. Sailed a lot in NE 
waters, Block Is , etc and 1960 Bermuda Race - Alden 63' schooner/Boothbay ME 1929 from 30s. Though I'll be 75 in 2 months and have retained I hope adequate seamanship, I am completely lacking in knowledge of aging of fiberglass 35-45' boats. I am looking at Morgans, Island Packet, Halberg-Rassy, and Tartans. Great buys on 1967 to some 1990 boats ~ 50 to 25 yrs old. I should have enough to buy a $135K boat and another $30K for "missed items". I have a liking for full-keel boats, and am inclined toward Island Packet. My questions to you are: What is life expectancy on fiberglass (I know the composition of fiberglas used must have improved in certain periods) to retain blue water strength, and what should I look for so I that I don't buy a pretty painted, but rotten hull that may well pound apart in first squall? Sorry to be so wordy, but I greatly appreciate your help.


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## pappa

travlineasy said:


> Go with the Morgan 33 Out Island - best of the lot!
> 
> Gary


I really agree with you on Morgans designs; intelligent compromises by a talented designer. I am selling my landlubbers paradise and going to sea again if all goes well. Sailed a lot in NE 
waters, Block Is , etc and 1960 Bermuda Race - Alden 63' schooner/Boothbay ME 1929 from 30s. Though I'll be 75 in 2 months and have retained I hope adequate seamanship, I am completely lacking in knowledge of aging of fiberglass 35-45' boats. I am looking at Morgans, Island Packet, Halberg-Rassy, and Tartans. Great buys on 1967 to some 1990 boats ~ 50 to 25 yrs old. I should have enough to buy a $135K boat and another $30K for "missed items". I have a liking for full-keel boats, and am inclined toward Island Packet. My questions to you are: What is life expectancy on fiberglass (I know the composition of fiberglas used must have improved in certain periods) to retain blue water strength, and what should I look for so I that I don't buy a pretty painted, but rotten hull that may well pound apart in first squall? Sorry to be so wordy, but I greatly appreciate your help.


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## travlin-easy

From all the testing results I've read, fiberglass boats will probably outlive steel hulled vessels by a significant margin. And, the test results clearly show that fiberglass hulls really do not change much when it comes to structural integrity over a period of more than 50 years. Take a look at http://www.ericgreeneassociates.com/images/Boat_Longevity.pdf

Good luck from another 75 year old codger,

Gary


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## miatapaul

pappa said:


> I really agree with you on Morgans designs; intelligent compromises by a talented designer. I am selling my landlubbers paradise and going to sea again if all goes well. Sailed a lot in NE
> waters, Block Is , etc and 1960 Bermuda Race - Alden 63' schooner/Boothbay ME 1929 from 30s. Though I'll be 75 in 2 months and have retained I hope adequate seamanship, I am completely lacking in knowledge of aging of fiberglass 35-45' boats. I am looking at Morgans, Island Packet, Halberg-Rassy, and Tartans. Great buys on 1967 to some 1990 boats ~ 50 to 25 yrs old. I should have enough to buy a $135K boat and another $30K for "missed items". I have a liking for full-keel boats, and am inclined toward Island Packet. My questions to you are: What is life expectancy on fiberglass (I know the composition of fiberglas used must have improved in certain periods) to retain blue water strength, and what should I look for so I that I don't buy a pretty painted, but rotten hull that may well pound apart in first squall? Sorry to be so wordy, but I greatly appreciate your help.


Fiberglass seems to have a usable lifespan of at least 100 years or so if maintained. Or so it looks like. To me island packets are OK for marinas and if you are only going to be in very shallow waters. But special attention needs to be paid to chainplates as they are embedded in the hull behind cabinetry. So inspection is impossible without destroying the interior. There are other cost cutting measures such as the concreat ballast that make them not worth the premium they go for. I would look for something that has better motion and performance especially light air.

With the money you are taking about the Halberg Rassy sounds good.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## sk8sn0surf

Whats everyones opinion on the Bristol 29.9? This is the boat I'm currently looking at since theyre very reasonably priced, solid build, and I like the layout. I've heard they are great coastal cruisers, but my 1-2 year plan includes some ocean passages. Will this boat be able to make it across an ocean?


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## captain44

You are asking for trouble here when you ask for opinions but asking for "everyone's opinion"?? And on a particular boat? Whether or not a particular boat can make it on a long ocean passage is as much, if not more, a function of the person or persons who sail her. This is something that many novices or relatively inexperienced sailors do not seem to understand. You as the owner determines how she is maintained and equipped. You as the owner determine how you will stow and secure gear, choose the anchor and rode, the sails and how you will provision and handle cooking and water and fuel etc. You will determine the course, when to reef, when to heave-to and when to let all the sails fly, when to change course to avoid a ship or bad weather etc. etc. You will determine whether she needs to be re-rigged, have new sails and whether her bilge pumps are adequate etc etc etc ad infinitum. So, the question is not whether a particular style or model or an individual boat can cross an ocean--sure it can--why not? The question is whether you can make the passage safely.


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## killarney_sailor

sk8sn0surf said:


> Whats everyones opinion on the Bristol 29.9? This is the boat I'm currently looking at since theyre very reasonably priced, solid build, and I like the layout. I've heard they are great coastal cruisers, but my 1-2 year plan includes some ocean passages. Will this boat be able to make it across an ocean?


We have a 45.5 which is obviously a very different boat but it came from the same factory at more or less the same time. This generation of Bristols are very well made. Within the limitations of its size (carrying capacity and comfort) I have no doubt the 29.9 could cross an ocean in the trades or in the westerlies in summer.


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## seaner97

sk8sn0surf said:


> Whats everyones opinion on the Bristol 29.9? This is the boat I'm currently looking at since theyre very reasonably priced, solid build, and I like the layout. I've heard they are great coastal cruisers, but my 1-2 year plan includes some ocean passages. Will this boat be able to make it across an ocean?


Depends on the year and condition. See some of Jeff H comments on the Bristol 35 so he doesn't need to cut and paste. Basically, it's a decent boat, but not the best, as you knew. It's not up to Morris or hinkley standards, but if it surveys well, and you're not a performance/racing guy, probably fine as long as you be sure you go over it with a fine tooth comb.


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## Matt

2 years ago I was looking at a refitted Corbin 39 with an asking price of $20k. The only reason I didn't buy it wa because it was too much boat to learn on. This boat should have sold for $80k. Don't be afraid to hold out for an insanely good deal. That boat would take you anywhere around the world.


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## Sea&Stars

What do you all think of this boat as a candidate?

Hinckley Sailboat Sloop For Sale

Sure, its a restored wooden boat, but a classic and at 10K well within budget. The other 15K spent in outfitting might allow this to be a real winner.

Added Yachtworld link: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/194...94760/Shelburne/VT/United-States#.VcstQ60y3x4


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## Matt

Sea&Stars said:


> What do you all think of this boat as a candidate?
> 
> Sure, its a restored wooden boat, but a classic and at 10K well within budget. The other 15K spent in outfitting might allow this to be a real winner.


This depends on if you enjoy randomly taking on water. I know everyone has an opinion but wooden boats terrify me


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## TQA

Sea&Stars said:


> What do you all think of this boat as a candidate?
> 
> Hinckley Sailboat Sloop For Sale
> 
> Sure, its a restored wooden boat, but a classic and at 10K well within budget. The other 15K spent in outfitting might allow this to be a real winner.
> 
> Added Yachtworld link: 1947 Hinckley South Wester Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com


Is the above a good idea.

NO

For a start many yards will not haul wooden boats.

You need a vanishing skill set to work on them.

Running costs on 69 year old woodies are often unexpectedly astronomical.


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## krisscross

Old wooden boats can be a death trap in the tropics. Wood rots quickly and silently, and you can have major structural damage in less then one season from a hard to detect small leak. In rough weather that structural damage can lead to major hull leaks that will sink your boat. Since there is a total glut of decent fiberglass boats in your price range, buying an old woodie makes absolutely no sense.


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## krisscross

Here is a nice boat at reasonable price that would fit your bill: 1970 Bayfield 32C sailboat for sale in Maine


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## miatapaul

krisscross said:


> Here is a nice boat at reasonable price that would fit your bill: 1970 Bayfield 32C sailboat for sale in Maine


Nice looking boat, and looks to have been well loved over the years.


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## travlin-easy

Ditto!


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## Matt

There is a Morgan 36 outisland CC forsale in midland ontario for 8k canadian, needs some work. 
i dont know much about these boats also can't post post link


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## quint

Man oh man, that is an open ended question. Sure you can go across the Gulf Stream in any boat on a perfect day after letting the seas calm down from adverse winds. Seamanship... The real question is not the boat, but the man in the boat. $30K should find a reasonable craft.


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## quint

There are lots of boats available in Florida.

coming South, unless you intend to take the outside route, you will likely want to leave the States from Miami.
Many sailboats wait there for a window to cross the stream.

Just thinking you can find an experienced Caribbean boat down here... ready to go.


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## Matt

quint said:


> There are lots of boats available in Florida.
> 
> coming South, unless you intend to take the outside route, you will likely want to leave the States from Miami.
> Many sailboats wait there for a window to cross the stream.
> 
> Just thinking you can find an experienced Caribbean boat down here... ready to go.


There is wisdom in this, many Caribbean sailers leave their boats in that area and can never recover them due to health/age. Lots of deals to be had for a boat that's been sitting for a couple years and just needs a good cleaning. I've heard st maartin is the best place in the world to refit a boat aswell.


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## TQA

Matt said:


> I've heard st maartin is the best place in the world to refit a boat aswell.


Hmm I am not sure about that. It is a duty free area which is good but you are in a hurricane area which is seriously bad. Also if you need outside assistance the prices are high which is in part due to the number of megayachts with deep pockets in the area.

No for a minor refit I would choose Carriacou. Best little boatyard in the Caribbean with a good ali welder and a good engineer on tap if needed.

But the place to go for a major refit has to be Trinidad. There is almost nothing that you can not get done there and the prices are significantly cheaper than anywhere I found up island.

EG when I was looking to paint my 44ft monohull the lowest quote I got up island was $10.,500 plus materials. I had it Awlgripped in Trini for $3.400 which INCLUDED materials. Sanded down 2 coats epoxy primer 3 coats Awlgrip and a bootstripe. I have a vague memory of the St Martin estimate being stratospheric maybe $20k +.

Chris Doyle who compiles the popular cruising guides had his catamaran Ti Kanot built in Trini.


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## Sal Paradise

Don't discount the value of accessories and gear. I'd look for a boat that had a wind generator, solar panel, autopilot, chart plotter,refridge,dodger, nice dingy with outboard. Look up the price of each of those things when you consider the boat. Those things can add up to half the value, and maybe more, of the boat. Plus they indicate that someone with money had the boat and cared about it.


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## jeepjeff

Just google "sailboat for sale florida"

It is the way I have been researching the different makes and prices of sailboats. You can pick and choose the state you want and, if you click on the sailboatlistings.com link, the listings comes up by length from longest to shortest. Page forward to the length you are interested in and start looking. It has given me some great information and insight into the many different makes and styles (plus prices).

And this guy has a nice write up on how to talk to a seller and look at a sailboat to decide if you want to continue - or hire a survey for it. Marine Survey 101, Do your own marine survey


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