# Ancor vs. 3M heat shrink adhesive connectors?



## turfguy (Oct 24, 2007)

I have used Ancor heat shrink connectors with adhesive and think they are great and the only way to go when rewiring. But I have a chance to buy some 3M ones reasonably and was wondering if anyone had used them and are they as good as Ancor connectors?
Thanks in advance for all the wisdom and opinions  
turf


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## sailaway21 (Sep 4, 2006)

3M probably makes the stuff for Ancor! I use them every day on submersible pumps. What I do not recommend is the thin auto repair stuff. I like the heavy wall stuff rated for 600 volts as it sets up nice and stiff providing support for the connection.


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## btrayfors (Aug 25, 2006)

3-M ring terminals and other connectors are just fine, so long as you use a proper single crimp tool (e.g., the racheting Ancor 702010) designed for heat-shrink terminals. The racheting double crimp tools (by Ancor, Greenlee, et. al) are for nylon connectors, NOT heat shrink connectors. They tend to break thru the heat shrink, negating the waterproof design.

Warning re: Ancor terminals....about two months ago we came across a bad batch in which the heat shrink material was INSIDE the terminal connections, making for a no-contact crimp (0 ohms) or, worse in one case we noted, a partial connection which measured 10 ohms. This is the second bad batch we've seen, the first one a few years ago.

Bill


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## turfguy (Oct 24, 2007)

Thanks Sail and BT for the responses. I do use the Ancor single crimper when using these connectors BT, it wasnt cheap but it sure does a nice job.  

turf


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*You might also*

You might also look into the FTZ connectors sold by Sailors Solutions. FTZ is a small company that makes a very high quality crimp connector. I have used 3M, Ancor and others and find the consistency to be lacking perhaps because companies like Ancor "source" product.

I actually suggested to Nick, one of the owners of Sailors Solutions, to bring in this line and to sell them in small quantities to fellow sailors. Sailors Solutions sells bags of 12 very reasonably ($10.95 per dozen) and they are very high quality.

Lyman Morse and many of the super high quality builders up here in Maine use them and buy them from the same distributor I buy from. The only problem with my distributor is that they sell quantities of 100 only with no mix & match.
*
Sailors Solutions FTZ Crimp Connectors (LINK)*

They also sell the single ratchet crimper for heat shrink connectors for a lot less than the Ancor model @ $39.95
*
Sailors Solutions Single Ratchet Crimper $39.95 (LINK)*

This is an FTZ yellow butt connector holding all those anchors..


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## bubb2 (Nov 9, 2002)

Great Information Thanks Maine


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## turfguy (Oct 24, 2007)

Thanks Maine for all the great information. I had read your website on "wire termination" a while back and read all the other topics while there too!:laugher Great learning tools and great pictures. Never can have too many pics for us dummies. I ordered one of those rachet crimpers from Sailors Solutions to have an extra. I am assuming they are of the same quality of the Ancor ones? They look identical.
Thanks again
turf


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*Sorry..*

I forgot to mention that Sailors Solutions brought in Berkshire tinned marine grade wire too. Again the same stuff I've been using for years and it is excellent stuff. This is a made in the USA (MA) product.

The last time I spoke with him Nick was going to bring in Cobra Wire, and I thought he had, but it looks like he changed his mind. 14/2 for .69 per foot & 12/2 for .95..!!

*Sailors Solutions Berkshire Tinned Marine Grade Wire (LINK)*

P.S. I have no interest in this company other than the fact that I have been a huge fan of their Sensibulb product and have had many long conversations with Nick about all things boating/electrical and such.


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## thekeip (Aug 8, 2007)

Having read the opinions of the experts over several threads in many months, I offer my own. First, I do countless crimps every week in most any and all environments. Here's what I am most comfortable with. I use the correct size terminal for the conductor, sometimes doubling the wire back on itself to build thickness, or often crimping the conductor and a 'partner' so as to have something substantial to squeexe against. I prefer the Ancor shrinks, and I very often use a butane micro-torch to do the shrinking. 
I've grown disenchanted with the Ancor ratchet crimping tool. It just isn't reliable...period. The next best tool I've tried is the Harbor Freight knock off which is a reasonable performer. The West Marine crimper with the interchangeable dies worked for a while, then it became impossible to tighten the frame sufficient to hold the dies adequately. The WM and HF tools are about the same in my opinion.
I've now come back full circle to the Klein tool. When I need to make a rock solid crimp, I use the Klein's semi-circular die position and squeeze like hell. A good crimp terminal won't crack or split. The problem I've had with the (much) cheaper Harbor Freight and Radio Shack variety terminals is that they seem to be made of very brittle plastic and don't like to be crimped regardless of what tool does it. I very often use the so-called telephone crimps for those occasions where I need to splice 22-26 ga conductors, as in instrument cabling where a junction box is impractical. The Klein has a die position that works wonderfully for that.
Howard Keiper
Berkeley


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

thekeip said:


> .... I use the correct size terminal for the conductor, sometimes doubling the wire back on itself to build thickness, or often crimping the conductor and a 'partner' so as to have something substantial to squeexe against. I prefer the Ancor shrinks, and I very often use a butane micro-torch to do the shrinking.


If you're really using the proper size terminals, there should be no reason to "double" the wire back on itself.


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## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

So now I need ANOTHER ratcheting crimper? Sheeesh.

Maine...could you suggest to your friend at SS to sell a kit of various, most common connectors? I could just buy a dozen of each but I don't think I need a dozen of every kind. I don't know what I'll need for a given upcoming repair and I'd like to have a few of every kind on board.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

thekeip said:


> I've grown disenchanted with the Ancor ratchet crimping tool. It just isn't reliable...period. The next best tool I've tried is the Harbor Freight knock off which is a reasonable performer. The West Marine crimper with the interchangeable dies worked for a while, then it became impossible to tighten the frame sufficient to hold the dies adequately. The WM and HF tools are about the same in my opinion.


The more expensive Kleins are great tools. I am very surprised to hear that your Ancor ratchet crimper has been unreliable. I have literally thousands of crimps on mine, (both the single and double ratchet crimpers), never doubled over a wire or added a partner and still never had one not work.

The Ancor "double crimp tool" is a directional crimper though and perhaps you are using the wrong side of the die? I am on my second pair but only because the first pair died of rust due to lack of proper care (left it in a damp canvas tool bag on my boat)..

I also own the HF tool and don't see much if any comparison between it and the Ancor double crimp tool but if you say it works for you then that's good..

Here's a link to a post I did a while back with a few photos I took to show the two side by side. 
*
Ancor Double Crimp Tool vs. Harbor Freight Double Crimp Tool (LINK)*


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

xort said:


> So now I need ANOTHER ratcheting crimper? Sheeesh.
> 
> Maine...could you suggest to your friend at SS to sell a kit of various, most common connectors? I could just buy a dozen of each but I don't think I need a dozen of every kind. I don't know what I'll need for a given upcoming repair and I'd like to have a few of every kind on board.


If you call Nick I'm sure he will work with you on a "kit". He's a great guy. I had already talked to him about making a kit but I think he wanted to wait and get enough data, on what actually sells, in terms of connectors, before making a "bundled" package. The labor to assemble and count out these kits gets expensive and I'm guessing why he's holding off for now?


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*Double Back*



sailingdog said:


> If you're really using the proper size terminals, there should be no reason to "double" the wire back on itself.


As someone who was in the business until I retired in 2005:
Doublling back the connector on 20 or 22 wire into the starndard 18-22 terminal will give you a much better connection and a lot stronger too.

Sometimes it is useful when using say a 10-12 butt connector to attach a 12 to a 14 wire, doubling back the 14 is very beneficial.

Like most things, it is a useful practice in limited situations.


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## pegasus1457 (Apr 14, 2002)

Maine Sail said:


> They also sell the single ratchet crimper for heat shrink connectors for a lot less than the Ancor model @ $39.95
> *
> Sailors Solutions Single Ratchet Crimper $39.95 (LINK)*


Does this crimping tool really do a better job with the waterproof connectors than the Ancor ratcheting crimping tool?


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

pegasus1457 said:


> Does this crimping tool really do a better job with the waterproof connectors than the Ancor ratcheting crimping tool?


I think both Ancor and FTZ source the identical single ratchet tool but FTZ sells it for less.

It's virtually identical:
FTZ Tool








Ancor Tool:









A single crimp ratchet tool is much kinder and gentler on the heat shrink than a double ratchet tool is but a double crimp tool will work in a pinch if you only have a couple of crimps to make..


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## pegasus1457 (Apr 14, 2002)

Maine Sail said:


> I think both Ancor and FTZ source the identical single ratchet tool but FTZ sells it for less.
> 
> It's virtually identical:
> FTZ Tool
> ...


Of course the Ancor tool costs more -- the FTZ is in B&W 

Since I already own the Ancor double crimp tool I think I will give it a try on the heat shrink crimps. I already have a lot of expensive tools that don't get used that often


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## Trekka (Jul 16, 2006)

Maine Sail said:


> The Ancor "double crimp tool" is a directional crimper though and perhaps you are using the wrong side of the die?


Could you be real specific here? Thnx


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Trekka-

One side of the die in the Ancor double crimper is sized to crimp the crimp fitting around the bare wire, the other is designed to crimp the strain relief portion of the crimp fitting around the insulated wire.


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## btrayfors (Aug 25, 2006)

Ditto on what Maine said:

The double crimp racheting tool (Anchor, Greenlee, others) will cut thru heat shrink, thereby negating their use (why use waterproof connectors if you're gonna destroy the waterproof barrier?).

The single-crimp tool, also of racheting design, works beautifully without damaging the heat shrink coating.

At $39 it's a bargain (I recently paid $62 for the same tool).

Bill


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

Trekka said:


> Could you be real specific here? Thnx


*Read this:* *Marine Wire Termination (LINK)*

This is the Ancor double crimp ratchet tool for use with insulated terminals that are non-heat shrink. When crimping an insulated terminal with a double crimper, like the Ancor, it is important to note the direction of the terminal. The "open end" or the end you feed the wire into should always face the colored dots! The reason for this is simply that the dies are not symmetrical. The end where the colored dot is crimps the strain relief portion of the terminal and the other side crimps the barrel and wire creating a cold formed crimp.

Again, when using this double ratchet crimper the ring, spade or quick disconnect side of the terminal should ALWAYS be on the right side of the crimper jaws and the wire should ALWAYS be on the left side! If you make a crimp, from the wrong side of the crimping tool, the crimp will not be as strong and may fail!









Notice the different shape and profilr of the jaws from one side to the other.


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## heinzir (Jul 25, 2000)

Is it possible to get replacement dies or is it cheaper to just buy a new tool? Is it feasable to get a set of different dies for the same tool, not just to save cost but also to save weight and room in the toolbox?


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

You can get different dies, but not for the basic Ancor tool, which has the dies fixed in place. AMP makes a crimper that uses replaceable dies IIRC.


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## thekeip (Aug 8, 2007)

West Marine markets under their name a dual action (ratchet) crimper that served me well...almost well anyway. It has replaceable dies for various kinds of crimps and, ordinarily, I would have considered it a most handy tool for that reason alone. The problem with it was (is) that the frame distorts and no amount of bending will tighten it sufficiently to grip the dies correctly so as to get the results one would expect.
Howard Keiper
Berkeley


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

heinzir said:


> Is it possible to get replacement dies or is it cheaper to just buy a new tool? Is it feasable to get a set of different dies for the same tool, not just to save cost but also to save weight and room in the toolbox?


For the Ancor Double Crimp Ratchet tool pictured above P/N 701030 you can get three different dies.

LINKS

Non Insulated Single Crimp Die (LINK)









*RG8X / RG58 Coax Die (LINK)*









RG8 / RG213 Coax Die (LINK)









Unfortunately they do not make a die for the double crimp ratchet tool #701030 to turn it into a heat shrink crimper..


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

thekeip said:


> West Marine markets under their name a dual action (ratchet) crimper that served me well...almost well anyway. It has replaceable dies for various kinds of crimps and, ordinarily, I would have considered it a most handy tool for that reason alone. The problem with it was (is) that the frame distorts and no amount of bending will tighten it sufficiently to grip the dies correctly so as to get the results one would expect.
> Howard Keiper
> Berkeley


The Ancor Double Crimp Ratchet Tool P/N 701030 has dies made from hardened 4150 steel. I have never had either of mine mine deflect or bend and they have seen lots of use. I have also never worn out a die..


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## GaryHLucas (Mar 24, 2008)

btrayfors said:


> 3-M ring terminals and other connectors are just fine, so long as you use a proper single crimp tool (e.g., the racheting Ancor 702010) designed for heat-shrink terminals. The racheting double crimp tools (by Ancor, Greenlee, et. al) are for nylon connectors, NOT heat shrink connectors. They tend to break thru the heat shrink, negating the waterproof design.
> 
> Warning re: Ancor terminals....about two months ago we came across a bad batch in which the heat shrink material was INSIDE the terminal connections, making for a no-contact crimp (0 ohms) or, worse in one case we noted, a partial connection which measured 10 ohms. This is the second bad batch we've seen, the first one a few years ago.
> 
> Bill


Ah Bill,
I'll take as many of those Zero ohm connections as you can make! I want the best! No connection for practical purposes would like 1 Megohm, and 10 Ohms WOULD be a poor connection. However Zero ohms would be a perfect connection. To actually measure connector resistance with useful numbers though, you need a Milliohm Bridge.


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## scottyt (Jul 19, 2008)

i am still a fan of uninsulated crimps, and separate slip over epoxy lined heat shrink, i personally think its nice to be able to make sure the heat shrink has no damage. my local electronics place carries epoxy lined heat shrink in 3 foot lengths so its easy to make sure i get good coverage


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## btrayfors (Aug 25, 2006)

Gary,

Right you are! A senior moment....what I meant to say was a no-continuity connection (infinite ohms). 

Thanks for the catch!

Bill


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

scottyt said:


> i am still a fan of uninsulated crimps, and separate slip over epoxy lined heat shrink, i personally think its nice to be able to make sure the heat shrink has no damage. my local electronics place carries epoxy lined heat shrink in 3 foot lengths so its easy to make sure i get good coverage


Scott,

There is an difference in the quality and thickness of the tubing you buy in three foot lengths and the stuff the OEM's like AMP, FTZ or Ancor use on heat shrink connections.

I have literally crimped thousands of heat shrink connectors, with the right crimper, and have yet to have one rip or split. The stuff hey use on heat shrink connectors is designed to be crimped and is quite costly to the OEM's compared to what you can buy aftermarket.

The single ratchet crimpers from Sailors Solutions will save you some time!!

No tears:








And still plenty strong:


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I've never seen epoxy-lined heat shrink tubing. AFAIK, they don't use epoxy, which is a two-part adhesive that uses a chemical reaction to cure, on heat shrink tubing... If you've got a link for the epoxy-lined heat shrink tubing, I'd love to see it.  It is probably adhesive-lined...but I seriously doubt the adhesive in question is an epoxy.



scottyt said:


> i am still a fan of uninsulated crimps, and separate slip over epoxy lined heat shrink, i personally think its nice to be able to make sure the heat shrink has no damage. my local electronics place carries epoxy lined heat shrink in 3 foot lengths so its easy to make sure i get good coverage


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## GaryHLucas (Mar 24, 2008)

I don't believe the sealant inside the heat shrink tubing is epoxy. I believe it is a polyolefin.


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## scottyt (Jul 19, 2008)

well its sold as epoxy lined and feels like epoxy when it ozzes out. also its as thick as the other stuff, but they sell the thin stuff too, in 3 foot pieces and 10 foot rolls. this electronic shop is great they stock and sell almost everything including crimp and soider sma, smb smc connectors for gps, cell and wireless router connections

edit link for anyone in the baltimore area Baynesville Electronics


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Gary-

Believe the material the tubing is made of is polyolefin, not the adhesive inside the tubing, since polyolefins are plastics not adhesives. Believe the adhesive is much like what is found in a hot melt glue stick.  From this *website*:



> Polyolefin - Polyolefins are the largest group of thermoplastics, often referred to as commodity thermoplastics, they are polymers of simple olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butenes, isoprenes, and pentenes, and copolymers and modifications thereof. The term polyolefins means "oil-like" and refers to the oily or waxy feel that these materials have. Polyolefins consist only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and they are non-aromatic. Polyolefins are usually processed by extrusion, injection molding, blow molding, and rotational molding methods. Thermoforming, calendering, and compression molding are used to a lesser degree. An inherent characteristic common to all polyolefins is a nonpolar, nonporous, low-energy surface that is not receptive to inks, and lacquers without special oxidative pretreatment. The two most important and common polyolefins are polyethylene and polypropylene and they are very popular due to their low cost and wide range of applications.





GaryHLucas said:


> I don't believe the sealant inside the heat shrink tubing is epoxy. I believe it is a polyolefin.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Also a very good *sealed splice tool kit*. It is a complete solution for field operations. I´ve bought this kit from Rennsteig Tools (rennsteig.us) at the AAPEX Show in Vegas. They have also other USA-Specials.

Not cheap, but absolutly high quality.


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## tytower (May 3, 2010)

I have found this thread very informative -Thanks to all contributors

I would like to point out some difference in crimpers
I too have a double crimp ratchet type which with the glue lined terminals definately damages the heat shrink polyolefin tube and allows hot melt glue to flow out from there .Some nicks can be catastrophic with the whole tube peeling off and other nicks just sealing up again with the glue.

My crimps were cheap at about $15 AUD over the internet and they are different to the Ancor product on page 4 of this thread. The coloured dots are on both sides and the cable crimp side is tapered and the connector crimp side is a flatter bar with upward projections on each side . This tends to squash the outside of the nylon cover using the insulated terminals. I am using nylon connectors atm and then covering with the right glue lined heat shrink and shrinking it down.

I´ll get some pictures uploaded as I take them to illustrate this .I am trying to get the ancor 702010 atm for heat shrink terminals.

So the right choice of crimper makes the difference !

Although the forum says I may post attachments it will not letme add pictures?
I´ll work on that

I´ll try again ..got to the 10th post so here goes...nope no joy yet so Iĺl try an 11th post. It says I can post attachments and open new threads so maybe it will work on a new post


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## tytower (May 3, 2010)

OK looks like we are away.

The crimpers shown here you will notice have sharp edges which damage waterproof terminals with that sharp bit at the side. The shape is different to page 4 too see the taper on the wire side crimp and the flat bar on the crimp proper

All in all not a satisfactory buy .
See next post for the resulting useable crimps


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## tytower (May 3, 2010)

So here are the nylon teminals crimped both ways . I didnt know which way to put the terminal in as both sides are marked with coloured dots.

Its slightly out of focus but the top one I am told is correct with the taper to the cable insulation and the flat bar accross the terminal proper.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

Ty,

*This is the side you make the crimp with:*









*This is your strain relief crimp:*


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

tytower said:


> I have found this thread very informative -Thanks to all contributors
> 
> I would like to point out some difference in crimpers
> I too have a double crimp ratchet type which with the glue lined terminals definately damages the heat shrink polyolefin tube and allows hot melt glue to flow out from there .Some nicks can be catastrophic with the whole tube peeling off and other nicks just sealing up again with the glue.
> ...


There are equally good crimpers for this purpose that are a better value than the ancor crimpers.

I personally like *these*:









About $80.


> So the right choice of crimper makes the difference !
> 
> Although the forum says I may post attachments it will not letme add pictures?
> I´ll work on that
> ...


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