# Bottom Paint Options on the Chesapeake Bay?



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

Another never-before-boat-owner question...

Bottom paint for a sailboat... I'm assuming that sailboats typically get ablative paint rather than hard paint.

For a Chesapeake Bay boat that's going to spend most of its time in the lower salinity - upper portions of the bay. What readily available ablative paints would fit in the following categories and how many coats should you ask for of each?

* Assume the boat will remain in the water between seasons


Expensive - (Will last 2+ seasons)
Midrange - (Should make it through 2 seasons)
Budget - (Good protection, but only through 1 season)


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## jason3317 (Dec 20, 2007)

Micron Extra or Micron 66 are ablative/co-polymer paints that are proven Chesapeake performers. 2-3 Coats. Should last at least 2 seasons. Around $200 / gal, which should be enough for 30-35' ft waterline length.

In my opinion, anything less...is not cost effective. You could paint one coat a different color to show areas that need touching up at spring commissioning. Give an extra coat at high wear areas, leading edges, waterline, etc.

Jason


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

*Ditto Jason...*

Any money saved will be spent when you haul after 1 season instead of 2.

Also, whether the boat can stay in depends on the exact location; if it is too fresh it will freeze hard.

If I hauled every year, I suppose I would still use 66, just one coat.

Avoid build-up and you can avoid sanding most years.


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## SailKing1 (Feb 20, 2002)

I agree, I used micron extra 2 coats with a third on the leading edge and I'm in the lower bay. Bottom stayed clean for for better than 3 seasons and probably could have lasted another.


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## MrBee (Nov 9, 2008)

*Bottom Paint*

I'm sure these guys know more than I do.... But, I think it depends on your boat and what your doing with it. If your not racing and just day sailing and / or over nighting some times, I see no need to spend big bucks on paint. Why spend $200.00 per gallon just to do it again in a year or two ??
Go cheap, Get a good coat on and then Touch it up for a few years till the other color shows through, THEN start again with a different color.

If you have a high $$ boat and are after performance or looks then go with the Good stuff.

Just a different point of view.

Bee


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

I too have been successful with Micron Extra


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

*Practical Sailor just published some test results....*

An Micron 66 finished on top, along with some other good paints. That was in FL.

Also, consider the cost of bad gas mileage with a foul bottom.


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## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

I just found out that bottom currently has a coat of Pettit Trinidad on it, which is is a Hard Anti-fouling paint... I'm looking at going to Micron 66 or Micron Extra Ablative...

The anti-fouling compatibility chart on the Interlux website states that the only thing I need to do is lightly sand before applying the Micron Ablative. But then in the fine print is seems to imply that I'll need to use Primocon YPA984 primer over the old paint.

AntiFouling Compatibility Chart

Does anyone have experience with switching from Hard to Ablative bottom paint? And did you need to prime over the old hard Hard anti-fouling first or did you just paint over with ablative?


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## PalmettoSailor (Mar 7, 2006)

backcreeksailor said:


> I just found out that bottom currently has a coat of Pettit Trinidad on it, which is is a Hard Anti-fouling paint... I'm looking at going to Micron 66 or Micron Extra Ablative...
> 
> The anti-fouling compatibility chart on the Interlux website states that the only thing I need to do is lightly sand before applying the Micron Ablative. But then in the fine print is seems to imply that I'll need to use Primocon YPA984 primer over the old paint.
> 
> ...


I would think the compatability chart you linked would have the answer there. As I understand putting an ablative over hard paint is not a big deal, but you can't go the other way.

As far as performance in the Chesapeake is concerned, the previous owners of my last boat used Pettit Hydrocoat and I was very happy with how it worked and held up, so I continued using it and have two gallons at home for the new boat.

Its a multi-season ablative that has worked well for me and it costs about 1/2 of the brands I consistently see recommended here. Unless you are a racer using hard paint and burnishing your bottom, I can't see spending twice as much for bottom paint. I'm going over old paint so, I'll sand to create some "tooth", then two coats of Black Hydrocoat (3 in the high wear areas)over the exisiting blue and I won't paint again until blue is showing. I expect the paint to last at least 2 seasons based on what I saw on my previous boat.

Hydocoat is also water based, so I can get all "holier than thou" about green aspects and the easy clean up. lol


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## nk235 (Apr 8, 2007)

I don't use my boat for racing or any competition - just relaxed cruising however I still spend the extra for the better paint and use Micron Extra. Last year I had my bottom cleaned towards the end of the season by a diver and the boat felt like a totally different animal. It accelerated much quicker and maintained a better speed at significantly lower RPMs than before. Therefore even though I don't race I just love the way the boat feels, responds and performs with a cleaner bottom and would rather spend the extra for a paint that keeps it that way longer. Just my .02 from a different perspective


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## Quickstep192 (Jan 6, 2001)

In recent years, I've had more problems with slimy growth than with barnacles. I've used Micron Extra with Biolux. Initially I thought the Biolux was marketing hype, but it seems to work. My boat was painted with hard black paint and red Micron over top of that with extra coats on leading edges and the rudder. I touch up when the black shows through and re-coat if a lot of black is showing. As MrBee points out, if you're racing, it's a whole new ball game.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Micron Extra works for me


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## PalmettoSailor (Mar 7, 2006)

nk235 said:


> I don't use my boat for racing or any competition - just relaxed cruising however I still spend the extra for the better paint and use Micron Extra. Last year I had my bottom cleaned towards the end of the season by a diver and the boat felt like a totally different animal. It accelerated much quicker and maintained a better speed at significantly lower RPMs than before. Therefore even though I don't race I just love the way the boat feels, responds and performs with a cleaner bottom and would rather spend the extra for a paint that keeps it that way longer. Just my .02 from a different perspective


Who says the more expensive paint really does that? Having read the Practical Sailor reviews, the paint companies websites and seen for myself how Hydrocoat works, I can find no compelling reason to pay nearly $100/gal more for a similar performing bottom paint. The light slime I get doesn't noticiably affect performance and if I thought it did, I have access to a dry scrubber and could clean most of the hull excluding the keel in about 15 minutes. The folks in my marina using more expensive paints seem to have a similar experience, except the racers still pay a diver a few times a season.

I didn't pay for a bottom cleaning or use the bottom scrubber last year and saw no noticeable decrease in performance other than from encrustation of the prop late in the season that I did hire a diver to address. This year, I'll probably be more proactive watching the prop and may have a bottom cleaning when/if the runnning gear needs attention.

Like you, I don't race my boat, but I do crew for a friend that does and I apply that experience to sailing my boat and like having the boat perform to its potential. This is just one expense where I don't see the added benefit for my situation.


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## celenoglu (Dec 13, 2008)

Colours make a difference for antifouling. The best protector is red (brown-red). The second one is blue. Try to use red colourwhichever brand you choose. Keep away from white.


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## dacap06 (Feb 2, 2008)

Color makes a difference? Fascinating! I'd like to read more about that. Would you point me to the relevant statistics or studies?

Thanks!

DaCAP



celenoglu said:


> Colours make a difference for antifouling. The best protector is red (brown-red). The second one is blue. Try to use red colourwhichever brand you choose. Keep away from white.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

dacap06 said:


> Color makes a difference? Fascinating! I'd like to read more about that. Would you point me to the relevant statistics or studies?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> DaCAP


Yes please, I would like to see the same info, when you get a chance.


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## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

I stumbled across something about this when I was googling around about bottom paint. Apparently the red and reddish brown colors use copper oxide as pigment to create the red color and the additional copper content is thought to provide additional biocide anti-fouling properties. YMMV...


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## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

Copper does pigment anti fouling paint. That's why lighter-colored paint has less of it. I can tell you from 15 years of close, personal observation however that there is no noticable difference in anti fouling performance from one color to another, given a particular product.


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## MJBrown (Apr 1, 2009)

Stick with either Micron or Pettit and stay away from Super Hawk. Tried it at the recommendation of the yard doing the bottom paint. He sold all brands but edged me towards the SH. I'll never go back to it. Slime and growth built up in no time, and that's using the boat every weekend. IMHO you get what you pay for when it comes to bottom paint.


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## nickmerc (Nov 2, 2008)

Backcreek,

As I have said before, I keep my boat on Back Creek. The growth is aggresive here. Get the good paint. It seems that the bridge is some kind of salinity demarkation. North, lower. South, higher.
________
Prilosec Settlement Info


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## nk235 (Apr 8, 2007)

midlifesailor said:


> Who says the more expensive paint really does that? Having read the Practical Sailor reviews, the paint companies websites and seen for myself how Hydrocoat works, I can find no compelling reason to pay nearly $100/gal more for a similar performing bottom paint. The light slime I get doesn't noticiably affect performance and if I thought it did, I have access to a dry scrubber and could clean most of the hull excluding the keel in about 15 minutes. The folks in my marina using more expensive paints seem to have a similar experience, except the racers still pay a diver a few times a season.
> 
> I didn't pay for a bottom cleaning or use the bottom scrubber last year and saw no noticeable decrease in performance other than from encrustation of the prop late in the season that I did hire a diver to address. This year, I'll probably be more proactive watching the prop and may have a bottom cleaning when/if the runnning gear needs attention.
> 
> Like you, I don't race my boat, but I do crew for a friend that does and I apply that experience to sailing my boat and like having the boat perform to its potential. This is just one expense where I don't see the added benefit for my situation.


Midlifesailor - It's funny - between my earlier post and now I read the new Practical Sailor reviews and was surprised to see the results. I went with Micron Extra last year and this year as in prior reviews it stood out by far to be the best. I would certainly not mind saving a $100 per gallon by switching to the Hydrocoat if it is just as good. What I was trying to say in the prior post was that I see the value in getting a good bottom paint regardless of if one races or not.


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## PalmettoSailor (Mar 7, 2006)

nk235 said:


> Midlifesailor - It's funny - between my earlier post and now I read the new Practical Sailor reviews and was surprised to see the results. I went with Micron Extra last year and this year as in prior reviews it stood out by far to be the best. I would certainly not mind saving a $100 per gallon by switching to the Hydrocoat if it is just as good. What I was trying to say in the prior post was that I see the value in getting a good bottom paint regardless of if one races or not.


I'm with you there.

As an update, today I put two coats of black Hydrocoat over the blue albative that was on the boat. Prep was a quick, sanding with 80 grit per the directions to create some "tooth". The blue was getting pretty thin and the barrier coat was showing in some places after sanding. We then rinsed the hull to remove sanding residue and painted with straight Hydrocoat with rollers and I am very, very pleased with how smooth the bottom turned out. It was unseasonably cool this AM when we started and if it was any warmer, I think cutting the Hydrocoat with some water would be a good idea. The directions suggest cutting with up to 10% fresh water if spraying, but don't recommend cutting if rolling on. I think adding a bit of water wouldn't hurt a bit especially if it was a hot day. If I have a criticisim of Hydrocoat is the short "pot time".


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## davmarwood (Jan 12, 2008)

*Bottom Paint - Chesapeake Bay*

On our 10 yr. old Bene 352 the P.O. put on Pettit Trinidad, hard antifouling paint in '07, just before we acquired the boat. It sat on the hard during most of '07 while it was for sale. In spring of '08, after a light sanding, we put 1 coat of Micron 66, an ablative, and did a full season of weekend daysails and overnights out of Rock Hall, MD. When haul-out time came, the bottom was nearly perfect, except for slight discoloration at the waterline. An additional coat of Micron 66 went on this spring of '09 after a light sanding. The boat has been in the water a month now and no sign of any fouling. Conclusion: Micron 66 works fine on top of Pettit Trinidad for the upper Bay.


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## brokesailor (Jan 12, 2008)

*Light sanding*

OK so if I am going to put on Micron 66 over an old hard paint, what does light sanding mean? Can I use a power sander and what grit paper should I put on it? After sanding do I just wash, dry and then paint?


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## nickmerc (Nov 2, 2008)

With any paint, follow the manufacturer's directions. I'm up in Annapolis and I put on Micron 66. I sail mostly south so I did not worry about this paint not working in fresh water. I painted in August and I have my diver check things out in November. Nothing on the bottom. I can see in the water now and all I have is a slight fuzz on the side of the rudder that gets alot of sun.

Other boats around here have gotten 2 seasons out of the Micron 66 and speak very highly of it. None of them haul out for the winter.

I sanded with a 60 grit paper on a random orbital sander. I highly suggest using a shop vac with the sander (the sander will have holes on it's pad) so most of the dust is removed. Also, use the bag insert to make cleanup easier. Get a respirator, goggles, and tyvek suit to keep yourself clean and safe. This paint is used to kill growth... it's not very nice.
________
CLASS ACTION SETTLEMENT


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## 4arch (Jul 7, 2009)

I'm thinking about going with West Marine's PCA Gold ablative this year. From Maine Sail's comments it sounds like it's just a repackaged Petit product sold much cheaper. Also, if what he says about it starting to ablade at 2-3 knots vs 6-7 knots for Interlux products is true, that seems like a big plus. Beyond his comments I've read a lot of good reviews of PCA Gold on this and other sites but unfortunately only a handful were from others in the Chesapeake. Anyone else out there have experience with this product?


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

4arch said:


> I'm thinking about going with West Marine's PCA Gold ablative this year. From Maine Sail's comments it sounds like it's just a repackaged Petit product sold much cheaper. Also, if what he says about it starting to ablade at 2-3 knots vs 6-7 knots for Interlux products is true, that seems like a big plus. Beyond his comments I've read a lot of good reviews of PCA Gold on this and other sites but unfortunately only a handful were from others in the Chesapeake. Anyone else out there have experience with this product?


We used Petit Ultima SR this past year, which I THINK may be what the WM version is based on (I could be wrong, so please check on that). We have the boat just south of Annapolis. After about 8 months in the water, it looked pretty much clean. There really wasn't much to power-wash off. Here is a pic of haul-out, before power-washing.










For what it's worth, we went with Petit because it was on sale last year for like $100 at our local WM, probably because Petit was moving to the newer Ultima SR-40. I figured at $100, I didn't need the new stuff.
-J


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## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

We stripped the bottom last year and used Petitt Hydrocoat. It's a multi season ablative and was half the price of Micron. Defender had the best price at the time (Sorry, Sailnet). Prior to Gov Cup, I went over the side to clean the hull... but there was absolutely no growth on the hull. Nothing. And the boat had been in the water for 2 months in the summer Chesapeake.

When we pulled the boat in November, my wife summed it up best. As the boat came out of the water, she came over to me and said "Your bottom looks great! I've never seen it so clean!" I wasn't sure how to take that. :laugher :laugher

Used 2 coats with extra on the leading edge of the keel, rudder, and waterline. I *LOVE* Hydrocoat. Beware of WM CPP Ablative. It's ablative, but not multi-season.


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## bakerha51 (Nov 22, 2007)

I'm an inland sailor and slime is a real problem here. The boat I bought 5 years ago had VC17 on it and it looked ok so I continued to use it (for the ease of repainting) but the performance was just ok. Two years ago a friend did his S2 with a product called Super Ship Bottom (or something like that) and it lasted 2 years, so I did a couple of test spots over my VC17 this spring to see if it would adhere to the VC17 and I was amazed at the difference. The VC17 was slimmed up solid this fall at haulout but the ablative was TOTALLY clear of any fouling. The whole bottom will get this treatment this spring. And I think this stuff is ~$130/gal.


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