# Yamaha outboard no water through tell tail



## sgjfrods

I have a Yamaha 67D-28199-71, 4-stroke 4hp outboard engine. 

It has not been started for the best part of 5 years. 

I have been testing it in a fresh water plunge pool (approximately 3 feet deep.) and the engine has fired up fine however, there is only a small smattering of water not even worth speaking about just a very small almost water vapors coming out. 

I believe the tell tail should have a thin jet coming out all the time. 

I am reluctant to change the impeller as the first job as the outboard has hardly ever been used less than (12 hours since new) as I am new to outboards and have limited tools, so If i do this I could get myself in a bit of a mess. I am wondering if there are any things I could do first to see if it gets the water flowing again. 

(when i started the engine i ran it for less than 10 seconds as I didn't want to overheat the engine.) 

Thanks for any help, 

James


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## algee

Try poking a wire, like a paper clip into the water telltale tube.


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## chucklesR

Unfortunately replacing, or checking the impeller is about the only thing you can do.

Even if 5 of the six blades are still there and one is blocking the path - you have to dig it out.
And when the next blade throws off - you'll for sure be 5 miles from where you want to be.

Good news, doesn't take much in the way of tools. Most outboards of that size are pretty standard - put it on it's head, pop the four bolts on the bottom, pry it open etc..
Probably all of it is the same (about a 10mm socket). Maybe if you are lucky you got someone on your pier to help. 

Or if money is in more supply than handiness - take it to the shop and pony up the bucks.


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## sgjfrods

Thanks for your replies, 

Money is not handier than handiness . 

So just pull the bottom off and pop the impella housing off and check it out? 

The impella must just not be turning as practically no water is coming out of the tell tail. 

I have tried poking the tell tail with a paper clip but it just isn't doing anything. 

I should imagine before the engine was left for 5 years it was probably not flushed out with fresh water before it was left.


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## sgjfrods

I have not ran the engine in gear and only for 10 secs in neutral. 

But I don't believe this should effect the tell tail?


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## delite

Being in gear wont have any effect on the tell tail. If you could not clean it out with a wire then replacing the impeller is the next logical step. The tell tail will occasionally get blocked with debris and usually can be cleaned out with a wire


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## sww914

Both times that my telltale stopped spitting it was clogged. It was not a failed impeller. Best to fix the easy stuff first. Like my paw paw always said, better check them bulbs n fuses afore you rip out the wirin' harness.


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## dabnis

Maybe easier to check the thermostat. If it was put away without flushing there may be enough salt deposits to restrict the flow. Some motors have a connection for a garden hose or maybe use the "ears" type flusher to give it a good blast. If the "pee" stream increases to normal with the flusher it may well be the inpeller. Unless someone ran it "dry" for longer than a minute or two the impeller should last a long time. Or if it was run in heavy mud or sand, which may be dislodged with the flusher. If not, time to take apart. Try the easy things first.

Cabela's: Motor Flushers

Paul T


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## CarbonSink62

I think a 5 year old water pump is due for a new impella whether the tell tale is peeing or not.

Every 3 years. Right?


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## nccouple

CarbonSink62 said:


> I think a 5 year old water pump is due for a new impella whether the tell tale is peeing or not.
> 
> Every 3 years. Right?


Agree. 5 Years on a water pump is about max regardless of the hours. Dry rote! Even If it looks fine when you pull it out I would not trust it. However the most likely cause is dirt dobbers or other critters that have crawled up there and nested. Run some wire up the hole also... Very inexpensive fixes. Good luck.


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## dabnis

I have had many outboards over the years. The only one I ever replaced an impeller on was a 35HP two stroke Evinrude which I had for 25 years with a lot of salt water use. About 2 years ago I replaced the impeller due to it heating only at very low trolling speeds. Have to admit that I ran it "dry" from time to time, just enough to make sure it would fire after sitting over the winter, shouldn't have done that. As mentioned earlier, suggest you leave the impeller as the last resort.

Paul T


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## nccouple

dabnis said:


> I have had many outboards over the years. The only one I ever replaced an impeller on was a 35HP two stroke Evinrude which I had for 25 years with a lot of salt water use. About 2 years ago I replaced the impeller due to it heating only at very low trolling speeds. Have to admit that I ran it "dry" from time to time, just enough to make sure it would fire after sitting over the winter, shouldn't have done that. As mentioned earlier, suggest you leave the impeller as the last resort.
> 
> Paul T


I do believe that you got 25 years out of an impeller. However, Why would you ever trust a motor with an impeller that is over 3 to 5 years old? Ive seen way to many fail. What is the 2 main causes of motor failure. overheating and lack of oil. Just not a common sense thing to do. Just change it. Its easy and inexpensive.


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## JimsCAL

Could be plugged internal cooling passages. That was the problem with my Yamaha 2hp when it didn't spit water during its test run this spring. Impeller was fine.


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## dabnis

nccouple said:


> I do believe that you got 25 years out of an impeller. However, Why would you ever trust a motor with an impeller that is over 3 to 5 years old? Ive seen way to many fail. What is the 2 main causes of motor failure. overheating and lack of oil. Just not a common sense thing to do. Just change it. Its easy and inexpensive.


You are right, I am sure. On all my other motors there was never any sign of them going bad. On the 35 HP it started very gradually and very slowly got worse. To the best of my knowledge all the motors had a solid rubber puk type thing mounted inside a concentric. Never saw one, from the parts diagram, that had "vanes" which can break off. My only point to the OP is to try the easy things first before tearing into the lower unit

Paul T


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## sgjfrods

Thanks for your replies, 

If the motor has not been used for 5 years could the impella not be sort of stuck with salt deposits and just need freeing? 

I hear a lot about a blocked coolant pipe, how is the best way to clean it, just poke a wire as far as I can down it? I don't believe there is anyway to flush it out with a garden hose as I don't think there is any facility to flush it out using the garden hose. 

Thanks very much


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## sgjfrods

Could be plugged internal cooling passages. That was the problem with my Yamaha 2hp when it didn't spit water during its test run this spring. Impeller was fine.

For example how did you clear the internal cooling passages? 

Thanks very much


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## dabnis

sgjfrods said:


> Thanks for your replies,
> 
> If the motor has not been used for 5 years could the impella not be sort of stuck with salt deposits and just need freeing?
> 
> I hear a lot about a blocked coolant pipe, how is the best way to clean it, just poke a wire as far as I can down it? I don't believe there is anyway to flush it out with a garden hose as I don't think there is any facility to flush it out using the garden hose.
> 
> Thanks very much


You might want to try something like this

http://www.cabelas.com/outboard-accessories-motor-flushers-1.shtml?WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=00055775&rid=40&mr:trackingCode=3D6184C8-958E-DF11-A0C8-002219318F67&mr:referralID=NA&mr:filter=22729577304&mr:match={matchtype}&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=5855178024&mr:keyword={keyword}






Paul T


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## sgjfrods

Thanks for the link, however, unfortunately my outboard does not have the facility to attach a garden hose.


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## dabnis

sgjfrods said:


> Thanks for the link, however, unfortunately my outboard does not have the facility to attach a garden hose.


Maybe one of these "one size fits all" flushers that fit over the inlet holes on the lower unit?

Amazon.com: outboard motor flusher

Paul T


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## therapy23

Is this your motor?

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/1/LIT-18626-07-05_1398.pdf

http://www.outboard-engine.com/enginespecs.php?recordID=190


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## ProLuke

Hello, 
I had the same issue recently and this is what fixed it:

I did poke around a bit into where the water usually spits out, then I held the hose at full blast right up to that same outlet where the water usually spits out. I backflushed it like that for about a minute or two, and saw a good amount of little bits come out the propeller area. 

Now it works just as good as it did before it got plugged up.


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## JimsCAL

sgjfrods said:


> Could be plugged internal cooling passages. That was the problem with my Yamaha 2hp when it didn't spit water during its test run this spring. Impeller was fine.
> 
> For example how did you clear the internal cooling passages?
> 
> Thanks very much


Required removing the head so the passages could be cleared.


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## Minnewaska

sgjfrods said:


> .....I am new to outboards and have limited tools, so If i do this I could get myself in a bit of a mess.....


This is the problem. Your imagination and concern over the unknown are making more of this very simple problem.

You only need a very basic set of tools and you should have them anyway. Even just a kit would be a fine way to get started.

Remind yourself of this. If you take it apart and get stuck, then paying someone to put it back together is not going to be any more expensive than having them do it in the first place. With this courage, you are going to find that you get it done 99% of the time. For the 1%, you've saved plenty of money on the rest to afford the help.

Good luck.

p.s. google and youtube can really be your friend. I guarantee there are vids of other people doing their impellers that would give you more confidence. Here is just a random one that I found:


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## polaris2.11

when my outboard did that, I just cleaned the discharge tube from the water pump - problem solved


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## sgjfrods

Therapy, yes that is my motor.


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## therapy23

sgjfrods said:


> Therapy, yes that is my motor.


I went through the diagrams trying to find the path of the pee tube and could not find it.

I can usually find a .pdf shop manual for free but could not for that motor. That way one could give more specific advice.

I am with the camp of following the pee tube to the engine/pump housing and disconnect and flush. Bugs make nests that act and look like cotton plugs.

If that does not work then the impeller change.

I have worked on all my outboards and other motors since I first left home (a monetary necessity) so I would just go for the impeller anyway since it has been sitting so long.

Oddly enough the hardest part of changing an impeller for me has been re-aligning/re- adjusting the shift rod. (mark it before loosening it)


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## sgjfrods

Thanks for your replies, 


Out of interest does the prop area of the outboard have a different oil supply to the main engine? 

If so what type of oil is in the prop area of the engine? or a common type? 

Thanks very much, 

James


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## Minnewaska

Typically 90w lower gear unit oil. if you look on the side of the leg, just above the prop, you should see two screws. You open the top to allow air to enter as it drains from the bottom. Then you refill by pumping oil into the bottom until you see it at the top. The pump fits onto any 1qt oil container and costs about 10 dollars.

Again, I'm sure there are YouTube vids to see someone else do it.


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## Geoff54

therapy23 said:


> I went through the diagrams trying to find the path of the pee tube and could not find it.


Definite contender for quote of the week. :laugher

Don't know if it helps but nigel1 on the ybw forum has a pdf of the service manual that he says he's prepared to share.


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## CarbonSink62

Yes the 2 oils are different.

Engine oil is well... engine oil; follow the mfrs recommendation. A 2-stroke doesn't have engine oil, it arrives with the gas/oil mix and 30% of it goes out the exhuast, unused.

The oil in the prop area is called gearcase oil and the system (called the 'lower unit') is completely separate from the engine. In my limited experience, gearcase oil is all the same but they use a lighter (less viscuous) formula in colder climes.

The above represents about 25% of my OB engine knowledge. 

Ken


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## sgjfrods

Typically 90w lower gear unit oil. if you look on the side of the leg, just above the prop, you should see two screws. You open the top to allow air to enter as it drains from the bottom. Then you refill by pumping oil into the bottom until you see it at the top. The pump fits onto any 1qt oil container and costs about 10 dollars.




Is there no way you could just fill the oil from the top screw? 

Thanks again


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## sgjfrods

minnewaska, 

Thanks for your reply, is there anyway you could just fill the oil up from the top screw rather than using the pump? 

Thanks again


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## dabnis

Not impossible, maybe, but air can be trapped indicating it is full when not. Take out both screws, pump from the bottom, when it flows out the top, put the top screw in while holding the pump in place, then remove the pump and replace the bottom screw. Very little oil will be lost while re-installing the bottom screw. 

Paul T


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## Minnewaska

sgjfrods said:


> minnewaska,
> 
> Thanks for your reply, is there anyway you could just fill the oil up from the top screw rather than using the pump?
> 
> Thanks again


90w oil is very thick and hard to pour into a small hole. As mentioned, it could easily form an air pocket below and make you think you've filled it when you haven't.

Some quart bottles come with a tapered cap, so you can theoretically squeeze it in from below. We've all probably done it when we forgot or lost the pump. It's a real pain. First, it only squeezes well when the quart is full. Second, you'll never fill it on one squeeze, so you'll need to pull it out, put a finger over the hole so it won't leak, allow the bottle to expand, shove it back in and squeeze again.

Do it once and you'll gladly buy the pump. Of course, if you don't get the right amont of oil in there, you'll buy a new lower unit instead.


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## therapy23

sgjfrods said:


> minnewaska,
> 
> Thanks for your reply, is there anyway you could just fill the oil up from the top screw rather than using the pump?
> 
> Thanks again


NO! It is just not worth the hassle.

The manual says, on pages 34 and 35, 10W30 or 10W40 engine oil.

Gear oil is hypoid gear oil SAE#90. That is 90 weight.

It says it holds 100cc / 3.38 US oz. / 3.53 Imp oz.

Hypoid oil comes in less than a quart. It comes in a tube like a big tooth paste tube. 10-15 oz or so. It could go bad before you ever use it up! You don't need to buy the pump till you start working on bigger motors. 

You cut the tip off the tube and stick it into the lower hole. Pushing it in a little and "screwing" it in a quarter or half turn will help seal it. *Slowly *squeeze oil into the gear case till it flows out the top hole. While still holding the same pressure on the tube (so as not to relax and let the tube suck the oil back) put in the top screw. Remove tube and insert lower screw.

Once you look closely and have tools and rags ready beside you and do the job you will be amazed at how easy it is.

Trust me. You can do this.


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## phil4878

Ken the obvious was right in front of me and i didnt see it thanks, have changed the gear oil on my 2hp yami but for some reason didnt connect the 100:1 oil mix with engine lubrication
Regards
Phil
Cairns


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## CarbonSink62

Glad I could help.


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## sgjfrods

Hi, 

I have replaced the impeller.

I have poked wire up the tell tale.

I have had the cooling system blasted with the garden hose, but even with mains pressure running there was still no running water through the tell tale.

I have poked wire up through the pipe running from the water inlet at the bottom to the main box at the top. 

None of the above have cured the problem. Has anyone got any ideas? 

Any help would be so much appreciated!!


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## Minnewaska

Garden hose water pressure alone won't necessarily come out the tell tales. It needs to get past the impeller. I would check to see if something was undone inside the motor. If not, I would suspect the impeller itself is the problem.


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## sgjfrods

I removed the impeller housing and flushed directly up the tube that runs up the outboard.... And still no flow. 

I'm at a complete loss with this one.

Is there anywhere in the engine compartment which is blocked that may of caused this? 

If so where? Thanks very much for any help.


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## sgjfrods

I have also replaced the impeller and everything seems to be in order.


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## Thefishfinder31

sgjfrods said:


> I have a Yamaha 67D-28199-71, 4-stroke 4hp outboard engine.
> 
> It has not been started for the best part of 5 years.
> 
> I have been testing it in a fresh water plunge pool (approximately 3 feet deep.) and the engine has fired up fine however, there is only a small smattering of water not even worth speaking about just a very small almost water vapors coming out.
> 
> I believe the tell tail should have a thin jet coming out all the time.
> 
> I am reluctant to change the impeller as the first job as the outboard has hardly ever been used less than (12 hours since new) as I am new to outboards and have limited tools, so If i do this I could get myself in a bit of a mess. I am wondering if there are any things I could do first to see if it gets the water flowing again.
> 
> (when i started the engine i ran it for less than 10 seconds as I didn't want to overheat the engine.)
> 
> Thanks for any help,
> 
> James


If any one see this try useing air compressor shot air in it or and stick a small piece of work In the Joe wiggle around


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## Quickstep192

When I that that problem, it was the fitting on the motor that connected to the pee tube. I removed the tube and started the motor while cleaning the fitting on the engine with a pipe cleaner. It wasn’t long before I had a steady stream. I re-installed the hose and bang-zoom.


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