# DIY Barrier Coat



## mrybas (Jun 23, 2008)

I am thinking about doing an epoxy barrier coat on an 1986 Tashiba 40 as a preventative measure before taking her to warm tropical waters. Can anyone point me to informative websites about the process (something like a "how to")? What is the best way to remove years of old bottom paint: soda blast, scraper, sanding, chemicals? Once the bottom paint is removed, is the gelcoat removed to the laminate? Or will a sanding of the gelcoat provide enough adhesion for the epoxy to bond? What type of epoxy is used: will thickened West epoxy work, or are their special epoxy barrier coat products? How is it applied? Will the epoxy self-level or will fairing be required? I'm a fairly handy DIY-er, but is this a job thats better left to a professional?


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## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

interlux 2000E was what we used on my boat. The largest part of the job is removing the old bottom paint. I had it taken off with 50 grit. big job too! the bond is amazing! I'm just having problems with the new bottom paint sticking, my fault because we didn't sand the barrier coat. Any blisters, or fairing you should do before the barrier coat. it's rolled on, 5 coats is best. it sets up way faster then the instructions say it will. use small batches. We did under the stand locations with 5 coats first. the did the rest of the hull. It's all pretty easy tech wise. just long hours of sanding. good luck!


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

The spring after we purchased our boat, there was a lot of paint build up and was flaking off, etc. So I had the bottom blasted only to find these... Mostly little blisters, not deep, with the exception of about 10 that I ground out.










Here I am sanding *ALL* the remaining bottom paint off...wear proper safety protection!!! 










Still going...all day long...










After sanding down to white gelcoat, I washed it about once a week for about 4 weeks to remove bad stuff, acids, reisdues, etc. then let it dry for another 6 weeks or so 

Then I started to fill and fair the bottom. I used West System with filler which has the brown color you see below. I also tried a vinylester product (forgetting the name at the moment) which you see in blue.

Remember...epoxy over the vinylester okay, but not the other way around 



















more filling & fairing...










Finally...the barrier coat application (gray)...starting to see progress, I put 5 coats on the hull with 3 more or 8 total on the bottom and forward part of the keel & rudder...



















Before the last coat of barrier coat cured, about 3 hours in 90 degree Maryland weather, I applied the first coat of bottom paint. Doing this should help form a good bond between the two. I used an ablative paint in black, of which I applied two coats.










Here I start to apply the third bottom paint coat, but in blue, so I can see when its time to re-coat...



















Finally done painting...yea right...










Here you can see where I removed the PO's try at a boot strip, I just took the bottom paint up another 1 1/2"...










Finally this spring I painted a new boot stripe... I need to do some repairs to the stripe due to the sling when we splashed her but I'm pretty happy overall.

Its been three years now since I have barrier coated the bottom, leaving the boat in year round. This spring there were no signs of blistering.   










Total cost to blast, sand (ended up renting a sander from the yard), fillers, barrier coat and three coats of paint, if I remember correctly was just over $2000.00 and about 60 hours of time give or take.

Good luck, theres lot here that you can search for on the topic...









__________________

BTW, I used Pettit Protect


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

Here's the link to International Paint's (Interlux) pdf on barrier coat application. I think it's the most used and respected barrier coat available.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/hotlinks/interprotect_bulletin.pdf
Brian


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## mrybas (Jun 23, 2008)

Thanks guys- Great info!

T37Chef- Was it worth having the soda blasting done since you still needed to sand anyway?


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Yes!!!!!! It pops most of the blisters for ya


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## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

for some reason I never took pics of mine with the barrier coat on but I have them of her with a bare (blush) bottom http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/DeniseO30/IMG_0154-1.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/DeniseO30/IMG_0161.jpg


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## mrybas (Jun 23, 2008)

T37Chef- I don't think I have any blisters. I thought it would be a good idea to barrier coat because its a boat that has spent its life in New England and I plan on taking it to the Caribbean. Better safe than sorry.
Why did you choose Pettit over Interlux?


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

I should also mention that there was a lot of paint build up. And I didn't think I had any blisters either  LOL. I only choose Pettit because the marina recommended it, I would imagine they are about the same?

I think your right to do the barrier coat, certainly isn't going to hurt


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

First, getting the paint off... If you have the budget for sodablasting the boat, I'd highly recommend going that route. Not only can it remove all the old paint, it will leave the gelcoat fairly well prepared for barrier coating, with only the need for a good washing. There is no need to sand down to the fiberglass. You can use Interprotect 2000E, which is an excellent product and easier to apply and use than some of the regular epoxies are. I wrote a post about applying it, and am posting again here.



> Alternating the colors helps a lot with determining where you've painted, but it is also very useful for helping you coat the areas around the boat stands. For instance:
> 
> The first layer is gray, since the gelcoat is white, and you can paint right up to the boat stand pads. Then you paint a layer of white, and leave about a two-inch margin of gray paint around the pads... then paint a layer a gray and leave a four-inch margin around the pads or about two-inches of white and two inches of gray showing...and then finish with a layer of white-with a six-inch margin around the pads-with two inches of gray, two inches of white and two inches of gray.
> 
> ...


This isn't a very difficult job and any competent sailor should be able to do it. Having a helper is very useful, especially if you're working in warmer temperatures, as the working life of the IP2000E is temperature dependent.



mrybas said:


> I am thinking about doing an epoxy barrier coat on an 1986 Tashiba 40 as a preventative measure before taking her to warm tropical waters. Can anyone point me to informative websites about the process (something like a "how to")? What is the best way to remove years of old bottom paint: soda blast, scraper, sanding, chemicals? Once the bottom paint is removed, is the gelcoat removed to the laminate? Or will a sanding of the gelcoat provide enough adhesion for the epoxy to bond? What type of epoxy is used: will thickened West epoxy work, or are their special epoxy barrier coat products? How is it applied? Will the epoxy self-level or will fairing be required? I'm a fairly handy DIY-er, but is this a job thats better left to a professional?


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## CaptKermie (Nov 24, 2006)

deniseO30 said:


> interlux 2000E was what we used on my boat. The largest part of the job is removing the old bottom paint. I had it taken off with 50 grit. big job too! the bond is amazing! *I'm just having problems with the new bottom paint sticking, my fault because we didn't sand the barrier coat*. Any blisters, or fairing you should do before the barrier coat. it's rolled on, 5 coats is best. it sets up way faster then the instructions say it will. use small batches. We did under the stand locations with 5 coats first. the did the rest of the hull. It's all pretty easy tech wise. just long hours of sanding. good luck!


I did mine last spring, used the same product, 2000E. I read in the instructions that if you get the anti-fouling paint onto the epoxy before it completely dries, ie somewhat tacky, then the bottom paint will adhere without sanding the last coat of epoxy. You have to be fast though because the epoxy dries a lot faster than they say it does so you have to have the bottom paint stirred and ready to apply as soon as the epoxy feels tacky to the touch, sort of like being able to leave a finger print if you touch it but still not get paint on your finger. 
This was not a job I wanterd to leave to the so called professionals because I do not trust them to be as fanatical as I would be. I was careful to do the best job I could and it took a lot more time than any pro would put into it.


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## BarryL (Aug 21, 2003)

Hello,

I went through this in the winter of 2008. You can read about it here:

_http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-...om-paint-1-me-2-all-done-test.html#post302572

Barry

_


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

deniseO30 said:


> I'm just having problems with the new bottom paint sticking, my fault because we didn't sand the barrier coat.


Sanding is not needed IF you apply the first coat of bottom paint before the epoxy cures. If not than yes, you should sand with 60 grit

I disagree somewhat with Sailing Dog, I think you need to remove all the old bottom paint and get down to gel coat, after all the work your doing, wouldn't it be ashame for it to start flaking because you didn't get a great bond.

Of course my job is about four years old now with n sign of blisters reappearing, but I might be eating my words any day now


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## pegasus1457 (Apr 14, 2002)

*Interlux site*

Read the Interlux web site. There are lots of tips. Then read it again 
I don't know where you are located, but the hull temp has to be above 50-something degrees, so it may have to wait until Spring.

Follow Interlux's time schedule for the 5 coats of barrier coat AND the interval between the last barrier coat and the first bottom paint.

Getting the old paint off: the best is *soda blasting* but it will cost you about $3K if prices on Long Island are any indicator. You can get it off a lot cheaper with marine paint remover, a good scraper, an orbital sander and a few weeks of hard work. Total cost: about $200 for supplies.

Good luck.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

$3,000 !!!! WTF

I paid $580.00


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Umm... exactly what are you disagreeing with??? I said to sodablast since it will take it down to the gelcoat... 


T37Chef said:


> Sanding is not needed IF you apply the first coat of bottom paint before the epoxy cures. If not than yes, you should sand with 60 grit
> 
> I disagree somewhat with Sailing Dog, I think you need to remove all the old bottom paint and get down to gel coat, after all the work your doing, wouldn't it be ashame for it to start flaking because you didn't get a great bond.
> 
> Of course my job is about four years old now with n sign of blisters reappearing, but I might be eating my words any day now


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

*Clarification*



sailingdog said:


> First, getting the paint off... If you have the budget for sodablasting the boat, I'd highly recommend going that route. Not only can it remove all the old paint, it will leave the gelcoat fairly well prepared for barrier coating, with only the need for a good washing. There is no need to sand down to the fiberglass.


Apologies Dog, I misread the last sentence above  You are correct.

However, in my experience as shown in my photos above (See the first photo compared to the third photo), the blasting did not remove all the old paint, but then we were looking at many years of hard paint build up, maybe thats why I needed to follow the soda blasting with a lot of sanding, but it was certainly a lot less sanding then what I would have had to do if I had not paid a professional sand/soda blaster.


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## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

Thanks guys.. like I said.. I didn't sand before botom coat. there an echo in here? lol will sand it some in the spring... PROMISE!!


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## bubb2 (Nov 9, 2002)

T37Chef said:


> Apologies Dog, I misread the last sentence above  You are correct.
> 
> However, in my experience as shown in my photos above (See the first photo compared to the third photo), the blasting did not remove all the old paint, but then we were looking at many years of hard paint build up, maybe thats why I needed to follow the soda blasting with a lot of sanding, but it was certainly a lot less sanding then what I would have had to do if I had not paid a professional sand/soda blaster.


I always thought even if you start with clean gel coat you sand with 80 grit and wipe down with thinner so there is some "tooth" there so the barrier coat can adhere better.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*Barrier Coating*

#1 All paint should be removed, every last little bit.

#2 Measure moisture in substrate using a moisture meter. The hull should be as dry as possible before barrier coating. Proper drying can take months this is why it is a good idea to strip the hull in the fall, for Northern sailors, and let it sit over the winter. Coating a wet hull is pointless..

#3 Any blisters should be excavated filled and faired. I prefer to fair with a mix of coloidal silica/milled fiber/epoxy. Microbaloons are easier to sand but can absorb moisture, though under a proper barrier coat this should not be a big deal.

#4 fair the hull and prep for barrier coat. It should be as smooth as possible.

#5 Despite sanding you should still de-wax the hull with a chemical de-waxer like those from Pettit or Interlux.

#6 Choose your barrier coat. I prefer Interprotect 2000, as do many professional yards because it has long "hot coat" windows, is easy to use and comes in two colors so you can alternate and know your not missing areas.

#7 Always try and hot coat the layers of barrier coating. This results in a chemical cross linking and avoids sanding and washing between coats.

#8 You'll want to "hot coat" the paint to the barrier coat if using IP2K. The hot coat test is when you can leave a thumb-print, it is ready for the paint. You'll need two people as "thumb print" happens very fast, as soon as 15 minutes, so one guy will be rolling the last coat of IP2K and one the first pass of bottom paint. Hot coating the bottom paint is perhaps one of the most critical aspects of the job other than properly drying the hull. Do not skimp or miss your window on this or you'll be applying yet another coat of IP2K so you can hit the hot coat window.

If you need to sand and wash the hull you will not get the adhesion you get with hot coating. If you miss the thumb-print window simply apply another coat of IP2KE and don't miss it the next time or it will cost you another $100.00.

If you follow the above standard guidelines you will have a bomb proof barrier coat with phenomenal adhesion...

Above all else read the manufacturers instructions for temp and re-coat times..

This hull could have been slapped with barrier coat but the yard is doing this correctly and drying the hull. The drawings on the hull are moisture meter tracings with the dates and meter readings..









Many unscrupulous yards will gladly take your money and overcoat a wet hull. Any yard that says they can haul, strip, fair & barrier coat, South of CT where boats stay in the water for years on end, and do it in a "few weeks", without using heaters, is full of BS.

This unscrupulous money grubbing behavior is what has lead to many unwary boaters thinking their barrier coat was not water proof or failed when new blister appeared. The blisters & moisture were already in there but just trapped by a fresh barrier coat by a corner cutting yard. The moisture came from inside not outside..

From Interlux:



Interlux said:


> *Note:*Overcoating times will vary due to wide variations in temperature and humidity. *The best method is to check the paint film using the "Thumb Print" test to determine when the Interprotect 2000E is ready to overcoat. If the primer feels tacky and you can leave a thumb print in the paint film without getting any paint on your thumb the Interprotect 2000E is ready for overcoating.
> 
> *Continue testing every 15 minutes using the "Thumb Print" test until reaching the Ready-to-Overcoat stage, then begin to apply Interlux antifouling immediately.
> 
> ...





Interlux said:


> *Some Important Points:* *The hull must be dry.* *Do not apply over one part paints.* Product temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 29°C/85°F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 35°C/95°F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 35°C/95°F.


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## mrybas (Jun 23, 2008)

Excellent info everyone. Thanks to your help, I feel more than confident about taking on this project. Time to remove that old bottom paint and see what lies beneath! Can anyone recommend a soda blaster in the Philadelphia area? How about a moisture meter?


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

mrybas said:


> How about a moisture meter?


Read this: *The Electrophysics CT-33 Moisture Meter*

This is about where you want to see your hull readings. Any reading under 7 or so, on this particular meter, is in the proper range for barrier coating. Interlux wants to see moisture content under .5% if you call them and ask tech support. They say "Hull must be dry." in their literature but then don't really define it unless you call and ask..


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## blowinstink (Sep 3, 2007)

Mrybas -
I'll PM you in a second. I have been talking to a couple of soda blasters in the Phila area -- at least one of whom seems reasonably priced. Maybe we can talk tomorrow.


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## KeelHaulin (Mar 7, 2006)

If you soda blast; be sure you pressure wash the hull after and sand it smooth. The pitting that soda or sandblasting leaves can cause further blistering if it is not sanded off. One way to prevent this is to blast it down until only a thin layer of paint (primer) is left on the hull and then sand that off to get down to gelcoat.

I used straight epoxy to barrier coat; a bit more difficult to apply (limited working time and must change rollers) but once you get a thick film it is more water resistant than the barrier coat paint. You can go to MAS Epoxies website for info on how to do a barrier coat with epoxy. For fairing blisters you can thicken epoxy with silica, microballoons, and glass fiber; again go to MAS website for a recipe. Sand it flat 24-48 hours after it sets or it will be difficult to sand smooth after the epoxy fully cures.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Properly done, sodablasting should remove the paint but not pit the surface...



KeelHaulin said:


> If you soda blast; be sure you pressure wash the hull after and sand it smooth. The pitting that soda or sandblasting leaves can cause further blistering if it is not sanded off. One way to prevent this is to blast it down until only a thin layer of paint (primer) is left on the hull and then sand that off to get down to gelcoat.
> 
> I used straight epoxy to barrier coat; a bit more difficult to apply (limited working time and must change rollers) but once you get a thick film it is more water resistant than the barrier coat paint. You can go to MAS Epoxies website for info on how to do a barrier coat with epoxy. For fairing blisters you can thicken epoxy with silica, microballoons, and glass fiber; again go to MAS website for a recipe. Sand it flat 24-48 hours after it sets or it will be difficult to sand smooth after the epoxy fully cures.


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## Guest (Nov 25, 2009)

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## KeelHaulin (Mar 7, 2006)

kitejunkie said:


> to yeild the full benefit of a barrier coat, as opposed to multiple layers, as one one molecularly "thick" coat is better than a bunch of molecularly thin coats. Not to mention the time factor for one coat to cure plus the sanding/blush removal, fuggettaboutit. this also holds true through the application of bottom coat to new barrier coat, although I'm not sure it really matters between bottom coats after first bottom coat goes on new barrier.


If you are referring to epoxy barrier coating; it is done in the same manner that paint barrier coating is. You apply multiple hot coats of epoxy with a roller; then tie-coat it with one coat of barrier coat paint. I put 6 coats of straight non-blushing epoxy on and it yielded a ~1/32" film of solid epoxy.

SD-

Was talking about the pitting on a microscopic level; a sanded finish won't leave pitting and porosity in the gelcoat like a blasted finish will. That's why sanding after blasting would be a good idea.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

kitejunkie said:


> chef, great photo documentary there after seeing your post it occured to me that you were docked behind me at balt city dock this past weekend, beatutifull boat btw. great weather, and a hell of a sail outta there late sunday night, my son was sound asleep below while I took a beating sailing back to middle river.


Double thanks KJ, it was a great weekend, I consider myself very lucky to have had such great weather  We enjoyed a perfect sail out the river into Rock Creek. I wanted to keep going but we had to get back home. What boat are you sailing? You were in front of us...cool, wish I had known, would have offered you a brew 

(Please excuse the off topic post  )


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## Guest (Nov 26, 2009)

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## mrybas (Jun 23, 2008)

So after getting 3 quotes in the neighborhood of $2,000 to have the old bottom paint removed via soda blasting, I decided to see how much effort was required to remove it by hand. So I headed to the boat shed with belt sander, orbital sander, scraper, and razorblades in tow. To my surprise, my first weapon of choice (home depot hand scraper) removed the two old layers of blue and red bottom paint without too much protest. I guess it took about 40 minutes to remove a 3'x3' area....which leads me to believe I could strip the whole thing in 3-4 long days. Verdict: Crank up the IPod and start scraping- $2,000 will come in handy else where!
This leads me to the discovery that I made during my foray into the bottom paint: Blisters....and lots of them, albeit tiny. The 3'x3' area I uncovered was the texture of a golf ball in reverse (maybe not quite the frequency of bumps but about the size, maybe slightly smaller). When applying pressure with my finger nail, some of the blisters would emit a tiny amount of clear liquid (almost unable to be seen with the naked eye.) If it turns out that the entire bottom is covered with blisters (imagine golf-ball-like gelcoat), what course of action should I take? Sand the gelcoat smooth until all blisters are popped and then take moisture readings until satisfactory, then barrier coat?


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## mrybas (Jun 23, 2008)

Here are a couple photos of the uncovered bottom.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Um...looks familiar  Look on the bright side, they don't look to be anything but on the gel coat, so not a worry. 

Once you pop them, rinse several times over the course of the next few weeks, then let dry (checking with Meter), followed by filling and fairing, then barrier coat/bottom paint. If you re read my post above you have pretty much what I was faced with.

BTW: If you don't already know this, please sand your bottom using a vacuum attachment, the boats near you will appreciate it very much


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## Legendsailing (Nov 29, 2009)

*Epoxy barrier Coat*

I'm not sure why you would want to take off the existing gel coat if there is nothing wrong with it? Can't you simply clean down to the gel coat and paint with 4 or 5 coats of Gel Shield. I purchased a Soling Keelboat which had been treated in this way and it has stood on a mooring for over 2 years at a time with no problems whatsoever, my other Soling's on the other hand are all showing slight signs of osmosis and so I make a point of taking them off the water each year to dry out. Eventually I will get round to applying gel shield to them as well.


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

Legend
The existing gelcoat doesn't have to be all removed, but the blisters have to be sanded off and the hull allowed to dry out before barrier coating. Saving the gelcoat is not essential really as it is porous compared th the barrier coat that would replace it.


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## KeelHaulin (Mar 7, 2006)

With such small blisters and in high abundance; you might want to consider using a power planer to strip all of the gelcoat off with one shot. There are tools designed to do this and they are quite expensive; but "peeling" the hull might be the best way to get all of the blisters off the hull before putting down a barrier coat. Otherwise you will have to carefully grind out each blister with an angle grinder; tapering the edges them so the fairing compound will adhere and not pop off of the hull when flexed. It's a tedious job and in addition you will then have to sand the hull smooth after fairing.

If you peel the hull you might have to re-build with a layer of thin cloth and epoxy fairing compound; but it might be faster and easier than grinding out each blister.


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## mrybas (Jun 23, 2008)

KeelHaulin- I think you may be onto something. The blisters are far too small and numerous to individually grind-out. Do you have any more info on the tools to peel the gelcoat? If only the gelcoat was removed, and not the laminate underneath, is a layer of cloth necessary before the barrier coat? 

As an alternative to peeling the gelcoat, would soda blasting remove the gelcoat that has been delaminated from blistering? Basically removing any gelcoat that has been weakened by blistering. Then I could fair and barrier coat.


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## idontwantanaccount (May 18, 2005)

*gelcoat planer*

I have no experience with it, but you should google "marine shaver." It appears to be a relatively low cost gelcoat planer. The video on the website shows fairly impressive results. Also the company apparently will buy back the tool from you after a period of days (essentially making it a rental) for a modest cost.


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## KeelHaulin (Mar 7, 2006)

mrybas said:


> KeelHaulin- I think you may be onto something. The blisters are far too small and numerous to individually grind-out. Do you have any more info on the tools to peel the gelcoat? If only the gelcoat was removed, and not the laminate underneath, is a layer of cloth necessary before the barrier coat?
> 
> As an alternative to peeling the gelcoat, would soda blasting remove the gelcoat that has been delaminated from blistering? Basically removing any gelcoat that has been weakened by blistering. Then I could fair and barrier coat.


I don't have specific info; but there are tools available that will remove about 1/16" of material per pass and follow the contour of a smooth surface. I would try and find something specific for planing a fiberglass hull because if you don't take it off evenly you will have trouble re-fairing the hull smooth. I have seen jobs where the mat has been stripped completely off and you need to re-cloth the hull to build a layer back; but I don't know about just the gelcoat. I would say that you should apply a thin woven cloth layer to get the thickness back to the level of the topside gelcoat and then use an epoxy filler mix to fair it smooth. Then sand down any rough spots or high spots and then apply epoxy barrier coat per MAS epoxies instructions.

I don't think I would soda blast; it might leave the surface full of craters where the blisters were, and then it would be difficult to plane or sand smooth.

I should also mention that blisters usually are down in the strand-mat; you should grind a few out until you reach dry epoxy filled glass to see how deep they are. Blisters usually form beneath the gelcoat and in the strand mat layer; where the epoxy did not fully wet out the glass.


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## cutterorient (Feb 22, 2009)

to the OP, I just did all this this past winter / spring and my boat is from the same builder as you so you may see some of the same probs. Some of my thoughts;

1. soda blast is good as it does more than just take paint off, it revealed to me gelcoat imperfections that I then filled with epoxy thickened with microbaloons. The guys I hired were idiots but they got the paint off. If the surface is pitted who cares, more surface area for the first barrier coat. I wouldn't take anything off that is well bonded, just fill

2. neutralize the soda with cheap vinegar from the grocery for easy cleanup

3. get ready to do alot of sanding, filling, fairing, sanding, filling, etc.

4. I did not choose Interprotect for the following reasons; high cost and tight windows for recoating and bottom painting which, if done incorrectly, can mess up quite a bit of work and add more cost and work.

5. I chose MAS epoxies for the following reasons; reasonable cost, easy to use/mix, VOC free, flexible application ( you can recoat when its tacky or wait till it hardens while you are on vacation in between coats, hit it with a scruff pad and throw another coat on ) no need for crazy expensive and toxic solvents as water and denatured alcohol are all you need, on final coat after it has had time to fully cure, scuff with a scoth pad and paint with ablative paint so you never have to do this again.

5. MAS epoxies were good for filling, fairing, wetting out glass for repairs, barrier, so I had one product that I could use for all those purposes, just keep pumping 1:1

6. When unavoidable repairs are to be done in the future I can just grind, repair, re barrier without all the time schedules and recoating windows. Easy Simple, cheap.

7. You can tint the epoxy for that cool grey look - I did.

8. After full cure just paint it when you want after a scuff.


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

myrbas
Here's a link to a site restoring a Morgan 30. He peeled the hull and built it up with glass after drying. At the bottom of the page it goes to stage 2 - application of new bottom. Boat Peel


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