# Merit 25 sailors?



## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

Im about to buy a 1982...if anybody has particular helpful info with this model year I sincerely appreciate it

I specifically need help with:

blisters on the cored hull
slightly delaminated rudder and possible fixes that can be made on a trailer

best suit of sails for every day sailing in 10-15knots wind.

thanks


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

well we ended up buying the boat

a hell of a deal

with nice nissan 3.5hp longshaft

north sails racing mylar and kevlar/carbon sails and full suit of running rigging.

spinnakers, and hardware and

NEW TRAILER!

this is by far the best deal I have ever bought!

very excited to get into racing around here 

peace


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

some pics! 




killed some roaches...drained about 20 galons fo cruddy water from inside...took sails out...had some cider with my friend...took some pics and headed on home

aaaaaaaaaaaah first day of ownership!

big plans for this baby

peace


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)




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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Sweet! I know your feeling.. drill out and air out those blisters, and whatever you do, do NOT skimp on barrier coat. 4 coats minimum, 5 is better. Longboard the thing when you are done. Compound, polish, wax... As for core... well that's a whole novel of how to.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

Im not even going there! it has a new barrier coat and 5 coats of antifoul of which 2 are black and 3 are red...its on the first red layer still

I do need to do some rudder work however well leave that for next year hauloyut...we want to enjoy the boat first

its comes with a full suit of north racing sails

2 spinnakers 3 jibs and one oroginal merit main replacement

full new running rigging gear and extra halyards

this boat was a serious racer as its been gutted too

I would love to get it back in shape

more pics to come!

peace


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

Tsk, Tsk, Tsk Christian,

Impulsive buy, no survey, no insurance, no threads on buying the merit 25, very, very disappointed in you....surely your in for a lot of misery and countless dollars spent on an old production boat. Are you sure you shouldn't of spent that money on therapy for your sailing addiction? Do tell of your torment in making this momentous decision...all by your self.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

aeventyr60 said:


> Tsk, Tsk, Tsk Christian,
> 
> Do tell of your torment in making this momentous decision...all by your self.


Yes don't you know you should be sailing a Mac 26x, with a bluewater bucket? And you should have paid $400 for a survey for a trailer sailor you know.

All I can say is, I'm glad purchases don't require a committee.

The Merit 25 is a cool choice for racing.. Also it's pretty interesting to buy a race boat, you've stumbled across what I've personally found with race boats.. The owners are usually well informed, keep up with mainteance, that have upgraded their sail inventory, rigging, and outfittted the boats with all the go fast options. Usually the boats have decent bottoms. The biggest problem with race boats, is them not being raced/used for long periods, that means the owner stopped upkeep completely.

Again, Merit 25 should be a helluva lotta fun.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

SHNOOL said:


> Yes don't you know you should be sailing a Mac 26x, with a bluewater bucket? And you should have paid $400 for a survey for a trailer sailor you know.
> 
> All I can say is, I'm glad purchases don't require a committee.
> 
> ...


and bingo was his name oh!

thats how this boat was/is

Its got an awesome layer of black moss and grime that has the gelcoat underneath pretty pristine

inside there was rain water...its a lake so no worries with metal and stuff

mast is up but not tuned so the hull was nice and relaxed

in any case

elbow grease and some love and cleaning and we can sail on sunday which is the plan

I already took apart the outboard which just had some crud

I also did my patented pinesol bath for the lower unit and carb clean and we are good to go there

anywhoo

peace

next cleaning and washing sails, doing the downy rinse for my running rigging, varnish tiller and bobs yer uncle

no lollygagging here! ajajaja


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

ps Ill take tips for a quick compund buff and polish on the hull 

since Im back in the states with all the cool products and stuff it will be easy

Im used to very labor intensive wet sanding and cleaning followed by rubbing compund however

Ill just bleacj the hull fine wet sand then use whatever products you guys can recomend

we have a buffing wheel and as soon as we haulout(well early next year) well tackle the side

btw the trailer is an awesome tandem axle 2 year old trailer! YAY


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

You are going to laugh, but I used regular old turtle wax, compound, polish, and wax, and the quality of the job was indistinguishable from some of these guys that laud the poly-glow. Granted, I put elbow-grease in to do it... My point? I think the brand is less an issue than the labor put in to make it right.

Because I painted my Capri 25, it's hardly a good example... but my Capri 22... it had a chalky gelcoat... Here it is before.








Here it is after compound, polish, and wax:









You decide... Honestly I think its more about the labor.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

EXACTLY I got great results doing the time tested methods however Ill be low on time this project so I want something that s 2 or 3 steps versus 5-6! jajaja

turtle wax is fine for me...how did you prep the sides? simple green, bleach or just a fast wash?

thanks man

mpre pics to come

natural black protection jajaja


industrial bilge pump action(I calculate there was in total 30 galons of water, first time I went there water was above the floor boards...the hull was sitting low at the bow by 3 inches and overall about 2...


and more



oh I also have a full suit of lifevests, gloves, and 2 anchors and rode!

man alive!


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

pinesol bucket cleanse(yes this is a new diet jajaja)


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

WELL THE BOAT SAILS AND IS PLENTY FAST!

even with a dirty bottom and no haulout we were doing great out there and she sails like a dream

feels better than the j24 I used to sail all the time down south...

pics to come

ps. we completely bleached the hull inside and out and its miraculous how clean it looks

downied the sheets and some lines, worked on the engine...

motored out and sailed in 15 knots...the sail was fantastic

peace


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Fastest way... pressure wash, then 300grit wet sand, then wax... that's 3.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

jejeje a pic of the bleach pesticide bottle trick(yes in the pic yours trully jajaja)



we didnt even need the pressure washer even the hull sides...

now on to polishing Ill use your trick shcnool, thanks

the boat looks awesome!

edit in the pic you can see the recently made policarbonate hatch, we will tint it at an aoutshop it was a cheaper option than lexan or acrilic...its nice and thick


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

Hello, I'm also a Merit 25 sailor. Great boats. I've done a full bottom job, template the keel and rudder, long board, barrier coat, etc. I've also re-cored most of the deck, replaced the mast step, and replaced all running and standing rigging. The biggest cost you want to avoid is doing redoing the stringers. In 85 boats and newer they were bulked up, but the original ones in previous years the stringers need to be rebuilt stronger. A yard would do it for 3k or so but you can do it yourself.

Merit 25 Home Page
The info is old but these boats aren't new, so not much has changed.

Let me know if you have any questions.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

hey man good to see you! I guess we got conflicting info...I read that the early boats had a stronger keel hull attachment(79-82)

what year is yours? mine is an early 82

here is the link: from the racer twilight zone on the well site.
http://www.well.com/~pk/M25boat.html

*There's only one problem with the boat structurally, and this is
progressively worse with newer boats: The structure in the
garboard area, where the hull intersects the keel root, goes
soft. In extreme cases, when the boat is hanging from the hoist
slings, you can wiggle the keel back and forth several inches by
hand. (this was for a 1985 boat, after two seasons of heavy ocean
racing and a Transpac.) The fix is about $2,000, and results in a
very strong repair and a nice new wood cabin sole. A 1984 boat is
probably okay without reinforcement in this area, but if the
surveyor says the keel is wobbly (and make sure they check),
you'll need to allow at least that much for the fix.*

and that later ones were made lighter in that area and flex

later year model boats are indeed lighter

what stringers are you talking about exactly? the po did indeed add some knees/floors under the vee berth and mast step post structure...maybe there is flex up in that area when pounding hard?

anyways

my boat has a barrier coat done recently and very solid deck and hull

however you do have me thoughtfull as the cabin sole is a bit soft inside someday Ill do some new floors maybe when the time comes

not now though

how do you have your mainsheet setup z?

would love some pics of your running rigging

this boat is nice as it has a traveller mainsheet system as well as a dinghy like mainsheet clutch.

cheers


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

SHNOOL said:


> You are going to laugh, but I used regular old turtle wax, compound, polish, and wax, and the quality of the job was indistinguishable from some of these guys that laud the poly-glow. Granted, I put elbow-grease in to do it... My point? I think the brand is less an issue than the labor put in to make it right.
> 
> Because I painted my Capri 25, it's hardly a good example... but my Capri 22... it had a chalky gelcoat... Here it is before.
> 
> ...


shnool
I came upon some capri 25 pages last night...did you actually sail a transpac on your capri?


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

zz Im trying to become a member of the skeddadle yacht club Id love to see pics of the floors and stringers...

thanks


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

Christian Hess, you are correct, the older boats are stronger than the newer ones. The photos on the Skedaddle site are a very good reference but the site does run slow. The reinforcements at the keel to hull joint can be called different things. In the newer boats they're 1/2" ply with FG around them (I could be wrong) on the older ones they MUCH thicker. The ones in my boat are 2-2.5" wide. Mine is an 84.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

My mainsheet setup is the same as the factor 4:1 with a 2:1 traveler. No reason to change it for me. I did increase the backstay purchase to 24:1 and run it up to the traveler. Works great while racing. 

I've thought about reinforcing the bow section. The thing oil cans going upwind when it's blowing. Here on the chesepeake bay we get steep chop that stacks ups and is hard on small light boats.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

thats exactly what I wanted to hear! jajaja thanks man

seems my boat has been "UPGRADED" already to NOT oil can

it has 1 fore and aft reinforcement under the mast step and a simple knee on port out to the hull sides running side to side.

we went sailing in 15-20knot gusts and the damn thing felt great no oil canning however its flat lake sailing so it will always be easy on the boat

I do have to tune my rig

how tight are your aft lowers at the slip? and how tight are your cap shrouds?

reading the tuning guide on the well and other sites(Ill link it for you if you dont have it) they are going with a very tight setup that I fear isnt great for normal day sailing...

I love my backstay setup I can tune and do mainsheet very quickly and easily from the same position...

my traveller system is nice and fast...I love it!

if you want to share any pics please do so on here, id love to get more ideas and visuals for my boat

thanks man
christian


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

zz4gta said:


> My mainsheet setup is the same as the factor 4:1 with a 2:1 traveler. No reason to change it for me. I did increase the backstay purchase to 24:1 and run it up to the traveler. Works great while racing.
> 
> I've thought about reinforcing the bow section. The thing oil cans going upwind when it's blowing. Here on the chesepeake bay we get steep chop that stacks ups and is hard on small light boats.


I beleive my setup is like this too...the backstay is led up to the traveller on each side....However I have a very thick too thick line led to a block on the coaming that is a bit slow...so maybe Ill do your trick

please show pics if you can!

thanks man


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

you guys both post picts, maybe I'll get some ideas for my backstay rerig I am doing on my S2.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

not unless you tell me if you raced a transpac on your capri! jajajaja

no seriously I want to know if you did

I have a couple of offshore races in mind here in the gulf and atlantic that I think would be a blast on the m25

Ill take some pics of my boat hopefully this weeked

didnt get many taken last time out since we were having such a blast on the maiden sail.

cheers

before and after cockpit pics


shnool you can see how the backstay is rigged here sans the turning blocks at the back end of the cockpit...



the line Im reffering to as being a bit too thick for my liking and slow can be seen too...


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

few more pics:




that mainsheet is not new btw but a very "fried" mainsheet that was in the original pic...that I did my downy softener treatment

dont throw away old sheets and stuff guys! they can be saved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

There were 2 gentleman entered into the single-handed transpac this year.. with Capri 25s. One had such a harrowing delivery from WA to CA that he bailed out before he started his story included a busted boom and 2 tiller pilots... having handled some pretty rough weather in the process.

The 2nd (Doug Paine) raced in the Transpac, and managed to finish after blowing out a spreader and losing a good portion of his rig... he Jury rigged the remainder and sailed that way for the last 2/3 of the course. He finished last, but within the allotted time.

I posted the technical article on the pre-race... and one my fellow editors posted his story of the race itself (post race if you will). Both of these articles were written FOR the Mainsheet magazine (Catalina's brand magazine for owners). A copy of those articles can be found on the Catalina/Capri 25 association website, if you join the association.

I deeply respect BOTH those sailors, and frankly all those who participated, or attempted to participate in that race.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

aaaaaaaaaaaaaah thought it was you man...well even so my hats off to them to

peace


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

couple new pics:

getting new cushions made, bracket for the dinghy and installed the new gas tank for the motor

next sail on sunday! yay


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

sailed again today, plus my friend bought another boat to start learning to sail on too!

if anyone is interested here is the merit 25 TUNING GUIDE

Untitled 1

found out my mast is kenyon, whats yours zz?


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

some new pics!

painted and made a new wood outboard mount




interior cleaned up well compared to how it was, you can see the new hatch we made from policarbonate and then tinted

you can also see the new gas tank for the nissan outboard! btw it does hull speed easily and sips gas!

very nice engine





tested out the 150 genoa...its stained but racy...jajaja did well in 5 knots



tomorrow need to work on my running rigging its all wonky....way too long here and way to old there

so thats next

peace


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

THIS BOAT IS HELLA FAST! ajajaja thats california talk for you

we finally had some awesome wind 15-18knots steady from the northeast for almost all the day

we were doing 6-6.5 upwind steady with the genoa and spilled main and on a broad reach we were hitting a steady 7.5 with 8knots max

more rail meat here and there and a reef in the main would of done it for better performance but my friend who is new to sailing wanted to heel a lot and have fun! so we did!

very very pleased with the boat and how it handles, its easy to balance and is very responsive...it lets you know when its overpowered and I happen to enjoy the slight lee helm it develops on occassions...

the rudder is very responsive

again unlike the j24 rudder. I see why people like the merit25 over the j24 and vice versa

they both have very unique qualities that make them better or worse depending on what you like to do and sail.

anywhoo

Im spent

ps. trimmed my sheets and main halyards and jib halyard...also fixed some cam cleats and need to replace my backstay system with new rope...

it gets caught from being too stiff and thick in the blocks running forward so going downwind from a reach I lose a lot of speed...

anywhoo Im stoked

ps. the little engine works great...Ill change lower unit oil next and find some cowlings

if anybody knows where to get some(im not having luck on ebay) please let me know

*side covers(cowlings) for a 2000 ish nissan 3.5hp 2 stroke bf2 model engine.*

thanks


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

little update kind of a bummer I found out my boat is the newerlighter build version as my floors(when looking at the pic on skeddadle yacht club are indeed only 1.5 inches thick versus the older versions

so this makes sense as my boat us very racy as I bought it...and gutted...the bummer is after a deep clean on the bilge I found some stress marks in semi circles on stbd...this means that the keel has in fact wobbled at one point or another or more likely sustained a hit or grounded and heeled over to port

sooooooooooooo

this doesnt affect daliy sailing as I have been doing so far, or light racing on the lake but If I ever want to go ocean sailing or racing this means a full keel job and floor reinforcement in order to be safe

the good news is IM LIGHT AND FAST! ajajaj

ps finally became a member of the yahoo skeddadle site, where all my questions, pics and stuff can be answered

next sail on saturday

and sunday and monday1 ajajaja then christmas!

man Im stoked

anybody else post pics siling on here wanna see your merits! 

peace


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

christian.hess said:


> sailed again today, plus my friend bought another boat to start learning to sail on too!
> 
> if anyone is interested here is the merit 25 TUNING GUIDE
> 
> ...


I have a 3350 MORC section. I looked at that tuning guide and I think it's a little high. In San Fran it's windy and I think that works fine, but on the bay you need a little more give. And I use a loose gauge.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I can't seem to find other pics of my boat, I must've lost them in transitioning to the new computer. Oh well. There are a bunch on the skedaddle site. 

The boat is fast and responds well to minor changes in the rig tune and rail meat. For w/l racing the boat really likes to be sailed flat in breeze, so load up the rail with weight. 

The boat will surf well downwind with the kite up. We've hit 12.5 with a reef and #3 on a delivery once, and can easily get double digits with the kite up in 18+. 

BTW - this past summer I had a rudder bracket break during a race. We limped home but check all your stainless for stress cracks and rust. These boats are getting old enough where that could become a problem.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

zz4gta said:


> I have a 3350 MORC section. I looked at that tuning guide and I think it's a little high. In San Fran it's windy and I think that works fine, but on the bay you need a little more give. And I use a loose gauge.


you know my BOAT is loose...and I have not applied that tuning guide as the boat sails well and is balanced

its very loose on rear lowers and intermediates...the cap shrouds are tighter

its obvious this boat had at one time or another a smart racer owner who sailed it damn well

im learning how he rigged it as I open more sails and rigging and see whats hidden under the mold if you will! jaja

zz have you invested in a better vang? Im thinkinh about the ko75 boom kicker

its $160 or so

good bad for the merit?

thoughts?



and THANKS


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

zz4gta said:


> I can't seem to find other pics of my boat, I must've lost them in transitioning to the new computer. Oh well. There are a bunch on the skedaddle site.
> 
> The boat is fast and responds well to minor changes in the rig tune and rail meat. For w/l racing the boat really likes to be sailed flat in breeze, so load up the rail with weight.
> 
> ...


I havent even checked the rudder or post, shame on me

Im assuming these brackets are braces?

my tiller has a broken bracket up top connecting to the stock, ill try to fix when I varnish the tiller

yikes! jajajaja

Ill tone down the genoa sailing in 18 knots for sure...

x2 on flat sailing...it HATED anything over 25-30 degrees or so...I put my friend on the rail around 15 knots with the genoa and it made very little difference in heel

me thinks 2 or 3 minimum are needed but thats for racing obviously

the skeddadle site has awesome pics btw

which one is your boat?

any tips on halyard tension for the jib? I need a new cam cleat and or re reoute the halyard as it loses tension during normal sailing...

is yours free to adjust like this or do you set it and adjust forestay sag accordingly?

unlike other boats I have had including racing a j24 the merit is disntinguished in that it calls for forestay tightening in a breeze in combination with good backstay adjustment

what method to you use to tighten forestay turnbuckle?

btw Im loving my foil luffs...mand its beatiful to see such great shape and curve down the luff...

peace


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

christian.hess said:


> its very loose on rear lowers and intermediates...the cap shrouds are tighter
> 
> zz have you invested in a better vang? Im thinkinh about the ko75 boom kicker


I can't remember what I had in 15 kts true but the caps were at or around 28-31 on the Loose gauge and the lowers were 24-28. The aft checks were lose. And honestly, you probably don't need them on until you're at 15 kts with 1/2 to 3/4+ max backstay on. Basically if the mast is pumping, then put some on to steady the middle section of the mast. Done.

I have upgraded my vang. I did a soft vang with dyneema and T2 tie lite blocks from harken, then added the boom kicker. I forget what model but it was pretty small. It was a fantastic upgrade for racing in light air. I love it.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

christian.hess said:


> my tiller has a broken bracket up top connecting to the stock, ill try to fix when I varnish the tiller


This is the same part that broke. Mine are stainless straps that fatigued with age and use. Easy fix but we had to retire from racing. Luckily it wasn't blowing very hard.



> x2 on flat sailing...it HATED anything over 25-30 degrees or so...I put my friend on the rail around 15 knots with the genoa and it made very little difference in heel. me thinks 2 or 3 minimum are needed but thats for racing obviously
> 
> 
> > I usually sail with 4 for short course stuff. I have sailed with 5 when it was blowing 25+ and it makes a huge difference.
> ...


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

damn zz right on

thanks for those tips

merry christmas to you and yours

peace


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

well merry christmas yall

Santa came packing this year with an awesome NIKON 5200 DSLR camera

so I have been playing with some beauty shots on the boat

here are a few!






cheers and merry christmas once again!

christian


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

christian.hess said:


> some new pics!
> 
> painted and made a new wood outboard mount
> 
> ...


sorry to quote myself but zz or anyone familair with our boats

do your boats have tie downs for the forward lowers? this is what I did on my islander 36 for the aft lowers

I just realized this is not stock! jajaja thats probably why I dont have vberth cushions!

you can see the stbd one on this pic

cheers


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## guitarguy56 (Oct 10, 2012)

Christian... been following your progress on the Merit and your caring attitude to making your new sailboat a fine looking vessel!

Keep up your great work and looks like you're sailing the heck out of that Merit! Please post more photos of your progress...


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

absolutely man!

this boat wont be perfectio but GOOD ENOUGH

I took some awesome pics over the holidays...they just take a while to load up with the new nikon...

peace


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

here we go!

tried fishing, no go


some camera playing shots




I had some miscellaneous extra hardware and line so this was a FREE purchased topping lift to lift the boom in very light wind

its actually quite easy and fast to adjust unlike the original...half way mark to a boom kicker(need to save some $$$)


my vang and mainsail controls(nothing new here except and this is just me Im guessing the vang is reversed for a crew to control it all times...Im used to racing a laser vang...jajaja



yeah I messed up the exposure here(testing camera) but it shows us rafted up with a macregor 25 out in the middle of the lake waiting for the wind

this is dec.26



and Im not too fond of sharing really intimate photos, its the holidays and well here is the reason I live, the 2 loves of my life!

ps. the photo aint that bad either if I may say so myself, jajajajaja



as always

PEACE TO ALL


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

For some reason I'm blocked from seeing the photos at work. I'll try looking at them again when I'm home.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

well today was one of my last sailing days before the restaurant opens(where Ill be working) so I went out...

however it was one of those days...first off I find I hate pre feeders on old sails...they just get stuck no matter what, and being that I sailed in and out this time since my outboard bracket wood mount broke it didnt help at all raising and lowering the sails in a jam

almost hit some private house piers and stuff because my main kept getting stuck and I had no maneuvaribilty...

having said that the jib does fine both up and down sans prefeeder, it does have 2 btw on a line at the bow...

anywhoo

tried some rope netting for the forward bow lifelines mostly to help the skirt of the genoa flip in easier and also to be easy tie the sail down at anchor or whatever...lastly it might be safer for my kid...up on deck.

then out of nowehere I heard bag pipes on the water and some interesting people were out there playing the classics

my friends took out their boat too. and proceded to run aground on an island, I was motorless so just ran loops giving them directions...jajaja too funny really but they got off...they are sailors now! jajja

so thats my new years sail...

not as easy as it should of been but at least its time out there on the water and not watching tv...jajaja

peace






ps I do have to tune my mast a bit...I do have a bow in the middle even in light air...so a tune of the intermediates and lowers are in order...other than that it feels fine...


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

I was wondering how that motor mount was going to work... I couldn't envision how the pipe mounted, but the block of wood I just knew wasn't going to handle the twist.

There is a reason that motor mounts are made of solid plastic, or laminated wood.... there is a significant amount of "twist" that can split wood easily.

I don't think floppy pre-feeders for jibs work... the best ones are fixed on the forestay and can't fold flat as you raise your sail. But you are right the older sails will "bunch" while you raise sail. Sailkote will help some..


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

SHNOOL said:


> I was wondering how that motor mount was going to work... I couldn't envision how the pipe mounted, but the block of wood I just knew wasn't going to handle the twist.
> 
> There is a reason that motor mounts are made of solid plastic, or laminated wood.... there is a significant amount of "twist" that can split wood easily.
> 
> I don't think floppy pre-feeders for jibs work... the best ones are fixed on the forestay and can't fold flat as you raise your sail. But you are right the older sails will "bunch" while you raise sail. Sailkote will help some..


the wood was free so yeah Im only out of time

wish I could find a big block of nylon somewhere as I preffer "plastic" mounts

well see what I make up...

thanks!

ps Ill be taking off the main pre feeder for now...


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

zz or anyone what is your basic spinakker setup? I have 5 to play around with beleive it or not and just want a simple setup to work with...

are twings and such a necessity? I have pole lift and downhaul as well as sheets...

I might have some blocks to play around with

hey question if anybody can help...in the pic with the fishing pole you can see part of my backstay setup...

where do you lead the blue part of the tackle...it seems its not needed other than for huge adjustments...

I have been just fine using my adjusters on the coamings...

maybe Im brain farting here I also dont see how the way it is now is good.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I'm running tapered sheets lead up to the cabin top winches. 

Starting from the sail the sheet goes through:
- the twinger/tweaker which is lead to max beam on the boat at the toe rail. 
- The ratchet turning block at the stern
- forward to another turning block near the bulkhead
- then to the cabin top winches. This keeps them out of the way during mark roundings. I set and douse through the forward hatch.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

well its been a loooooooooooooooong time since I have posted something here but we managed to go out last sunday(easter) with the family and even managed to have some things fixed on the boat!

had the cushions recovered, got floorboards made and varnished and even tested another jib that came on the boat which is about a 110%

anyways happy easter!




question to anyone...I have a slightly delaminated leech if you look closely on this sail...is this fixable at a loft or is there any diy things you can do here...although these sails are fine for day sailing and stuff I dont want to get them ruined anymore so anything to make them last...

anyways!

peace


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## 2ndimpression (Jul 5, 2006)

Nice to see you brought a old boat back to life. I sailed a Merit 25 for close to 9 years.

Didn't see your spin pole up on deck in the pictures.

If you hookup your topping lift then run the line back into the jaw, then hook the jaw to the inside shroud turnbuckle the pole rides great up on the bow. Helps for fast sets. Our boat had a cable that ran inside the companion way which worked great for hanging a laundry basket for catching the spinnaker. You can see it really well at 24 seconds in the video i linked of our boat.

I also ran a extra purchase on the boom vang, made it a lot easier to adjust.

There should be pics on the yahoo group of 2nd Impression as well.
Keep a eye on the rudder, Don's boat Skedaddle blew the rudder because it was De-laminating around the post. There are pics of it on the yahoo group.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

thanks much! great tips...I do have a nice spinny pole...someday Ill get around to actually flying one...

I do have to check the rudder eventually but Im doing easy family day sailing for now...

looking into getting a better main from someone on the yahoo forums...

thanks again...

ps got new sheets and cam cleats for the jibs also some cupholders(sigh) jajaja

peace

pss seen tthat vid before nice setup! thanks again


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## Michigander (Mar 7, 2015)

christian.hess said:


> ps got new sheets and cam cleats for the jibs also some cupholders(sigh) jajaja


Where did you mount cupholders and what kind did you get/whered u get em?

Nice looking Polycarbonate hatch, where did you get that? and did you cut it yourself? did it come tinted or did you end up doing that at a car place?

I'm buying a Merit 25 so Im sure I will have more questions to come


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

Michigander said:


> Where did you mount cupholders and what kind did you get/whered u get em?
> 
> Nice looking Polycarbonate hatch, where did you get that? and did you cut it yourself? did it come tinted or did you end up doing that at a car place?
> 
> I'm buying a Merit 25 so Im sure I will have more questions to come


bought poly at a glass shop and tinted it for cheap at an auto place

its 3/8ths thick and works great...however the guys installed the old latch a bit lobsided but its much better than the old ply hatch it had before and strong...tint lets light in too...

there are exact diagrams of the hatch on the skeddadle yahoo forums too

tomorrow I will install the cupholders and other stuff

the make is shoreline marine sl52112 they are the ones you stick on and the fold up so no more holes and stuff however they are not flush per se...an inch out by the time they are stuck on...

cheers


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## Michigander (Mar 7, 2015)

christian.hess said:


> bought poly at a glass shop and tinted it for cheap at an auto place
> 
> its 3/8ths thick and works great...however the guys installed the old latch a bit lobsided but its much better than the old ply hatch it had before and strong...tint lets light in too...
> 
> ...


Cool, might have to copy your hatch. Does it fit snuggly/doesnt rattle around, is it waterproof (is there rubber it fits against in the slot?)? The glass shop cut it to spec? and they put the hardware on it (lopsided i saw you mentioned)?

your boat cleaned up very nicely, looks great!

with the fabric softener on the lines, do you just put the lines in a bucket with water and softener, leaving it for a day or so?


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

Michigander said:


> Cool, might have to copy your hatch. Does it fit snuggly/doesnt rattle around, is it waterproof (is there rubber it fits against in the slot?)? The glass shop cut it to spec? and they put the hardware on it *(lopsided i saw you mentioned)?*
> 
> your boat cleaned up very nicely, looks great!
> 
> with the fabric softener on the lines, do you just put the lines in a bucket with water and softener, leaving it for a day or so?


they drilled the holes a bit off...meaning the latch closes by jiggling the hatch around a bit...no there is no rubber grommet to sit against however like the forward hatch that would be nice for extra sealing there...

for the sheets and any lines I have always had great luck rinsing in downy for a day or two then washing again(machine) in downy and rinsing with cold water...manually getting rid of algae and or green crud on the sheets with a cloth or whatnot...

I do not feel the need to put in a bag as the extra friction cleans them up better and all you have to do is untangle them after...makes no difference in a bag or outside to me...

my mainsheet feels awesome and is softer than some new race line out there and fast around the blocks

anyways

installed the cleats today...sailed on my buddys boat and had a blast got burned by the sun and had fun with my kid and family...

btw the cupholders arent the best they do get damaged by feet and whatnot...but are cheap and easy to replace or install...

cheers


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## Michigander (Mar 7, 2015)

christian.hess said:


> they drilled the holes a bit off...meaning the latch closes by jiggling the hatch around a bit...no there is no rubber grommet to sit against however like the forward hatch that would be nice for extra sealing there...
> 
> for the sheets and any lines I have always had great luck rinsing in downy for a day or two then washing again(machine) in downy and rinsing with cold water...manually getting rid of algae and or green crud on the sheets with a cloth or whatnot...
> 
> ...


sweet, i cant wait to get up to my boat and start cleaning her up! wish i was out sailing. going to the Dominican Republic on saturday maybe ill find a little hobie to rent

sounds like fun, keep us posted on your boat and any new modifications/maintenance


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## CapnRed (May 15, 2015)

Great thread guys. I just acquired an '81 Merit 25 last week and have been having a hard time finding much information about it. Hope you don't mind me asking a few questions. 

Does anyone know what weight the stock motor mount is rated for? I need to get a motor for it and have been looking at 6 hp - 9.9 hp motors. It's the same mount shown in Christian's posts.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

dont know but I wouldnt go so big...I have seen 9.9 on these boats and they are too big

you dont need any more than a light 5hp

I would go with a 3, 3.3 3.5(nissan, tohatsu etc) or 5hp mariner or something

light works on our boats

cheers


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

well no pics but a quick update fitted a "new" main from a member from skeddadle site and its great however it does have more roach and I see the po fitted a strap to the mast head to prevent the sail(like this one) to fit all the way up...so that leaves me with a big bag of luff at the boom however I had no choice and sailed anyway

the main is great is loose footed and very nice looking so next project is to get that strap off and deal with the main slapping the backstay every tack or gybe

anyways

sailed on sunday, got baked, its hot now...and enjoyed the boat...

hopefully Ill get a boomkicker and enjoy the new main even more...

peace

ps. I need to find a tiller head new or used if anybody knows of a place...or piece for sale...

I checked rigrite but they are out of stock on many things...dont know what custom costs from them but assuming really expensive...anywhoo!


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

playing with a "new" main!



and:


its a nice dacron full top batten and bigger roach main than the original...luff is also longer as I had to remove a stopper the previous owner had at the masthead, now I have to deal with the backstay but I do have a better main for sure!

any tips or comments on shape welcome...I do notice a little excess luff at the foot but do notice some racier mains have this in certain winds...

peace


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## sony2000 (Jan 30, 2013)

Christian there is a very nice Islander 34 for sale on Ebay, at $6000. Owner is looking for a good home for it, from Florida.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Chrisian, install a flicker! A batten bolted to the masthead, with a block on the end attached through an eyebolt. Run the backstay through it, but it works better if you replace your backstay with amsteel (or other high strength small line)... I think I built mine with total investment of about $50.


















The deal is, you have to release the backstay adjuster before a tack, then tack, then readjust, so it helps if you also install a split adjustable backstay adjuster...









Details and components on how to build this out, go here...
http://hottamaleracing.com/misc_files/backstay.xls


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

awesome! yeah I need help configuring my backstay...

its cascading but seems like the po un installed a part of it...I have a cascade going down to nothing to attach to and then a nice setup on each side going up to the traveller

my question is what do I do to the un ended cascade?

in other words I have 2 ways to adjust the backstay...one with more leverage(the big cascade) and then the windward traveler ones which is more of a fine tune...I guess I can do nothing honestly jajajaja I just dont like the way my big one is left...

regarding the flicker I will use one of my old battens as per the old owner of the main sail said to do so...seems like a good solution to me even though its a bit racy for just a lake boat...

is that your flicker? looks great good job man...

tips on the backstay issue? I guess a main snatch block would work or something like that.

schnool or anyone you can see my backstay setup on page 2...what do I do with the blue line? the windward adjusters work great as I replaced the old line with new one...its just that occasionally I have to adjust the "big" blue line and I find that a bit awkward.

peace


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

sony2000 said:


> Christian there is a very nice Islander 34 for sale on Ebay, at $6000. Owner is looking for a good home for it, from Florida.


man! one 34 is already enough before...now I need to get rid of a 36 before it dies...

tough to do from a distance so it seems

jajaja


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## Michigander (Mar 7, 2015)

Proud new owner of a 1981 Merit 25 as of today! Hull number 252


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

congrats man! feel free to post on here, the more the better!

cheers


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## Michigander (Mar 7, 2015)

The previous owner of my Merit had a note referencing some type of screw he had tapped into the bottom the the rudder to release any water that may have gotten in. I found the hole on the bottom starboard side of the tiller, it seems to either have the screw (either some type of hex or totally stiped out) in place. or else maybe some kind of threaded piece was put in for a screw to fit into and that piece rusted out making it look as though it is sealed. the port side of rudder have what looks like some nails driven into it with some kind of apoxy over then to seal it. there was one spot that looked like it has a very minor "hole" or little framing nail head size "chunk" (more like speck) taken out, should that just be sealed with a little apoxy? 

Also other than the above mentioned and any maintenance on the outboard. is there anything i should be tending to before splashing? is there any maintenance to the till/rudder connection that should be done?

what kind of windvane do you have on your mast? not sure if there is one on my boat down below or not. need to do more searching


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## Michigander (Mar 7, 2015)

Got the rudder sealed up with apoxy, sanded and painted before splashing. Boats now in the water. 

The sliding hatch has two pieces that connect by latch with a foam seal between the two. The foam in old and worn out. I was wondering what would be the best thing to use as a new seal?

Thanks


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## CapnRed (May 15, 2015)

Alright I have a question about the mast step hinge plate. I can't see it clearly in any of your photos, but it looks like the same as yours Christian. The base of my mast is rocker shaped and it fits down into a "c" shaped bracket on the deck with extra mounting holes for rotating blocks. There is a bolt that passes through the whole assembly. The bracket has channels that the bolt sits in that will actually allow the mast to slide up and down a few inches. 

Last night I lowered the mast in preparation for a haulout. Once I got it down, I removed the nut and washer from the bolt that passes through the mast step. I then found that the bolt wouldn't come out. I am almost certain that it is supposed to, but it wont rotate or budge a bit like its fused in place. In trying to rotate it with a wrench it became evident that it would shear.

I think its badly warped and needs to be cut out, but thought I would ask. Is this bolt supposed to come out?

I will try to get out to the lake and grab a photo of it tonight. I didn't have my phone with me last night.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

Michigander said:


> Got the rudder sealed up with apoxy, sanded and painted before splashing. Boats now in the water.
> 
> The sliding hatch has two pieces that connect by latch with a foam seal between the two. The foam in old and worn out. I was wondering what would be the best thing to use as a new seal?
> 
> Thanks


awesome! I have no seal there either...however I used weather stripping to seal my forehatch and it did an amazing job to seal out water in rain here...

its about half an inch wide and double lipped...found at any hardware store


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

CapnRed said:


> Alright I have a question about the mast step hinge plate. I can't see it clearly in any of your photos, but it looks like the same as yours Christian. The base of my mast is rocker shaped and it fits down into a "c" shaped bracket on the deck with extra mounting holes for rotating blocks. There is a bolt that passes through the whole assembly. The bracket has channels that the bolt sits in that will actually allow the mast to slide up and down a few inches.
> 
> Last night I lowered the mast in preparation for a haulout. Once I got it down, I removed the nut and washer from the bolt that passes through the mast step. I then found that the bolt wouldn't come out. I am almost certain that it is supposed to, but it wont rotate or budge a bit like its fused in place. In trying to rotate it with a wrench it became evident that it would shear.
> 
> ...


I have the same! the bolt is probably a cheap galvanised bolt that overtime rusts out and fuses...mine is hinged just like yours...

I have to install a new topping lift on my mast in order to run a spinny and know that I dont want to unstep the mast right now....

over time stresses on that point will bend and fuse that bolt in place...

ps. there is a lot of info on the skeddadle site...I have been there frequently lately.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

little update installed a new 5 oceans windex, works and looks awesome...


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

tried out a new sail today from the boats arsenal of old racing sails

great in 5mph winds...

reaching genny, small % but really light...when the wind is less than 8 or so this goes up....instead of the 135

lots of fun lately on boat

cheers


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

heres the kid and the reaching staysail jeje


and:


next project change main sheet to 5/16ths instead of half inch the po had(yikes way too big and heavy) and get a new traveler sheet thats longer, oh and feed a new topping lift to test out the spinnies

cheers


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

finally rigged and tried out a spinny!


fun fun except for the halyard jamming at the end...jajaja and the engine not wantingto start...and lake running out...yikes!

the engine not running has been fixed...rubber inside petcock got chewed out by too many on offs so we are back in business...also ordered new parts for itincluding a tilt stop knob and gaskets...

ps. I plan to sell the engine after I get a left cover for it...I want to go light light light with electric outboard and gels... I only need 30 minutes total running time...solar on the forehatch to charge over the week...etc


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

schnool, aubrey where are you guys? I need some help

I need help getting the boat out of the water for maintenance 

I want to fair and sand the bottom...and check the rudder for delamination

I have decided that given the fact that I have a brand new trailer that was only used once I must take advantage of the mobilty a trailerable boat offers

I want to take her down to florida and do some gulf and tampa bay sailing...eventually the goal is to solo ocean race her, maybe next year in a couple of gulf and east coast races...

so tips and suggestions on how to pull a boat up a ramp, how to engage trailer and keel in water and how to strap it if needed, correctly and what if any tips you guys have for trailering will be of great help

I should have a nice tow truck available to me shortly...

the trailer is a 2009...dual axle thing that came with the boat...thing is I never gave much thought to how damn nice and strong it is...new tires too...

I could also use input on BRAKE packages for dual axle trailers that can be added on later...

thanks so much

christian


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Sorry Christian, didn't notice the thread...

Keel guides are a must, or at least, if you can fashion something that'll steer the keel to the center of the trailer. PVC pipe works, we're talking very small amounts of pressure to steer the boat to center.

Also, that's a decent fin keel size, so the trailer will need to be in deep. HOW DEEP is obvious, but how STEEP your ramp is dictates how badly you need a bow support. You see the boat floats flat, but the trailer is in the water at an angle.. and even if you get the bow to float up to the winch, its angle will go up dramatically as you pull the boat out (rock back)... so a Better way is to put a bow roller on a support, and winch the boat UP the roller and out of the water as you pull forward (you'll still get rock back, but it shouldn't be as bad)... the advantage of this is that the trailer need not be as deep either... because you are actually pulling at least just the bow out of the water some (and up)...

Picture of what I mean:









and









Boat looks good, spin(s) look good. Not sure I agree with the ditching of the fossil fuel burner, but to each his own. You'll have to pry my 2 stroke motor from my cold dead hands. I'm loving my 7.5hp yacthwin... its quiet, runs well, has lots of power, an alternator, and has very few issues. Loved my Johnson 3.5hp too, was light (35lbs), and had everything in 1 package... plus pushed my Capri 25 to hull speed. NO wires, no fuel lines... just drop it on the motor mount pull and go (1 tank of gas gave me 45 minutes WOT, half throttle was like an hour and a half!).

Strap launching will likely be needed if your ramp isn't real steep (likely)... Do you know if you have nice tongue weight on the trailer with the boat on? If you do, then you SHOULD be able to strap launch/retrieve without having to put rear trailer dollies on. Otherwise get a rotate to lock down trailer dolly rated to like #1500... and place it dead center on the last cross member of the trailer. Keep it about 2-4" above the ground (you really don't want to use it unless you have to)... it'll keep the trailer from flipping up as soon as you try to pull the boat out.

Back the trailer down to about 3 feet from the edge of the water... make sure your truck/trailer are already perfectly aligned with the ramp.

Wheel chock the trailer.

Keep safety chains ON the trailer.

Unhitch, to a heavy duty dolly, preferred a large wheel front landing gear type dual wheel dolly if you can find one.
run your come-along/tow strap from your safety chain attachment point to a secure spot on the trailer (prefer low), and back. I used a 
10,000lb rated tow strap (25 feet, and ran from hitch, to winch post to hitch).

Undo your safety chains (secure them out of the way).

Pull truck forward 6-12"

remove wheel chocks..

Lower rear dolly if you need it (again 2-4" off ground)

back trailer down.

get your boat on, use the bow roller/winch to lift the bow UP to the winch, bow ideally will be out of the water 2-4"

SLOWLY pull the boat/trailer out, check to make sure the keel is centered... you likely will have a small range of float where you can push the stern of the boat around, to align the boat to the trailer, its also usually where you CANNOT see the keel.

Reverse above process and hitch back up.

If push comes to shove, and the boat is on, but not entirely forward on the trailer (it happens believe me, and you'll know this by seeing the trailer resting on the aft dolly). You might need drop back, and work the boat forward.

If you get the boat ON the trailer, and mostly centered, and hitched up, but its still not all the way forward... 10 guys/gals can LIFT the boat up, while an 11th can winch the boat forward, and you'll get it where it needs to be... ASK ME HOW I KNOW!

Good luck. Shame you aren't closer man... I'd be happy to help in the train wreck


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

By the way Christian.. I bought one of these pre-feeders for my S2... and I have to say, it was a pricey, but worthwhile addition to my boat.
Spinlock Sail Mainsail Prefeeder

Was looking for a better picture of it, can't find one, but it slides down below the luff groove, and you tighten it in place. There are a pair of rollers on either side that feed the boltrope up into the slot, it really makes it so you can easily just hoist away, can even do it from the cockpit.


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## katiejai (Sep 9, 2013)

glad you got a great deal!!! It just makes it sweeter when you feel you have come ahead. I know the feeling--thought I got a great deal--AND I did BUT the trailer needed new tires--not just air, at least one wheel needs new bearings---tongue needed welding to beef it up--BUT the BOAT looks like mostly cleaning and new sheets Soooo a great deal!!! at least I am still happy with it.


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## katiejai (Sep 9, 2013)

recently purchased boat that I shop vacuumed 300 pounds of water out of. laughed when I found a couple of sponges under floor boards---had read about that trick. ha ha What amount of water did you add to the bleach to clean the hull?
As for the brakes for trailer--guess you are talking electric brakes--try searching www etrailer dot com i was looking to put brakes on a homemade trailer and they were super helpful


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

SHNOOL said:


> Sorry Christian, didn't notice the thread...
> 
> Keel guides are a must, or at least, if you can fashion something that'll steer the keel to the center of the trailer. PVC pipe works, we're talking very small amounts of pressure to steer the boat to center.
> 
> ...


its so cool to learn from those that know!

always a pleasure reading your posts...

I love my nissan 2 stroke dont get me wrong...and I wont sell it for cheap, BELEIVE ME having said that my kid and wife really react badly to the fumes...my kid is pseudo allergic to certgain smells and gets an ugly cough that has turned into bad colds...

anyways

I need to take a pic of my trailer and see where you think I can install that roller

I know exactly what you mean about riding the bow up...its just that I have never done a keel boat

I AM nervous however I want to do some maintenance on her...I really do love the boat...A LOT!:cut_out_animated_em


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

SHNOOL said:


> By the way Christian.. I bought one of these pre-feeders for my S2... and I have to say, it was a pricey, but worthwhile addition to my boat.
> Spinlock Sail Mainsail Prefeeder
> 
> Was looking for a better picture of it, can't find one, but it slides down below the luff groove, and you tighten it in place. There are a pair of rollers on either side that feed the boltrope up into the slot, it really makes it so you can easily just hoist away, can even do it from the cockpit.


shnool preefeder is back ON it ws the old luff of the main that was too stretched and hence got stuck

new one once the rolllers were adjusted for sides is acting beatifully
I have a line on a 2012 kevlar racing genoa from NORTH SAILS about to happen

after that its saving up for the kicker...then its boat out of water and maintenance...then its florida and racing

dreams!


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

katiejai said:


> recently purchased boat that I shop vacuumed 300 pounds of water out of. laughed when I found a couple of sponges under floor boards---had read about that trick. ha ha What amount of water did you add to the bleach to clean the hull?
> As for the brakes for trailer--guess you are talking electric brakes--try searching www etrailer dot com i was looking to put brakes on a homemade trailer and they were super helpful


seems we bought the same boat!

solution was straght bleach and cold water rinse...let it sit for a minute rinse

repeat as needed

perfect outcome as you can see without getting into more expense

Im still getting to places where mold was and cleaning those nooks

ps. I found out I have a new portapotty that is useable

now we can pee(wife) out there jajajaja


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

KEVLAR RACING GENOA ON IT WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 155

here we go solo race prep

trailer about to be modified...then I need advice on bottom paint

vc17? whats out there these days for racing and or ocean trailer sailing?

coppercoat?

Im all ears

will be done on trailer though...

I hope

ps. backstay flicker project is on too!


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## CapnRed (May 15, 2015)

christian.hess said:


> schnool, aubrey where are you guys? I need some help
> 
> I need help getting the boat out of the water for maintenance
> 
> ...


A little late, but thought I would give you my thoughts. I just pulled my Merit out of the water a month and a half ago.

I agree with SHNOOL about the keel guide. It's absolutely necessary and makes it very easy to get the boat lined up on the trailer. Much easier even than regular boats. It needs to be high enough to catch the keel when the boat is floating though.

Merit 25s evidently don't have bow eyes, so I made a short loop of heavy line, hooked it through the bow chocks, and then connected it to the trailer with the winch while I pulled it out of the water. Afterwords I removed it and secured the boat with a ratchet strap behind the keel.

My trailer had an adjustable 20'-40' extension tongue that we used when backing the truck into the water. Even with a deep ramp and a 20' extension, the back of the truck was in the water. When we were unhooking the trailer to add and remove the extension I made sure we were on level ground and well chocked, but strap launching is a different procedure.

I did a lot of measuring and adjusting before I got to the ramp. When we pulled the boat out, I was only off by 2". The boat was sitting on the pads rather than the keel. I was able to lower each pad one at a time to get it to sit decently. I had 6 pads to work with though and you have to be careful. The correct way to do it is backing the boat back in the water, pulling the trailer out, make your adjustments, then pull the boat back on it.

I can get you the keel measurement if it helps you set your trailer up. I couldn't find it anywhere on the internet and had to climb under the boat on the lift to get it. After doing so I found I needed to add an extra board to the keel rest to raise it a bit.

My main issue was the weight of the trailer. It is an ugly homemade steel trailer I found in Oklahoma that weighs 2200 lbs (see pictures and try not to laugh too hard). It also doesn't have any brakes. That puts it at 5500+ lbs with the boat on it, which exceeds the load carrying rating on my F150. I had to get a weight distributing hitch to pull it.



christian.hess said:


> KEVLAR RACING GENOA ON IT WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 155
> 
> here we go solo race prep
> 
> ...


I'm planning on using VC17 on mine after I fair the bottom and barrier coat it. I'm on a freshwater lake though. There is something called VC Epoxy that's recommended for trailered and lift stored boats. It doesn't have any antifouling in it. It looks like it's a lot harder to apply than VC17 though. It's for that reason that I think I'll go with the VC17 even though my boat stays on a lift.

There's also VC Offshore that I believe has extra antifouling in it.

Honestly, if you're not going to leave it in the water I wouldn't worry about the antifouling properties of the paint. People go with bare gelcoats.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

crap maybe im underestimating my trailer weight...looks VERY similar to yours just less beams

hmmmm

I was looking for a discovery beater to haul my boat with...now I might have to rethink that option....

thanks so much for the post


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

* "will be done on trailer though..."*

Dude, Get real man, us dirt bag sailors just find the nearest beach.....:captain:


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## CapnRed (May 15, 2015)

christian.hess said:


> crap maybe im underestimating my trailer weight...looks VERY similar to yours just less beams
> 
> hmmmm
> 
> ...


At 2200 lbs I would say my trailer is definitely the heaviest I've come across built for a 25' boat. It should have been made of aluminum and weighed half of that. The extension tongue alone weighs 300+ lbs. My truck still pulled it like a champ though. I have a 5.4L V8. The load carrying/weight distributing rating on my tow package is 5000/10,500 lbs. I was just barely over the load carrying limit so I upgraded to a weight distributing hitch.

You might weigh your trailer to help determine the vehicle you need. You can take it to a weigh station on the interstate. I took mine to the county waste transfer station. You should be able to pull the trailer alone with just about anything.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

aeventyr60 said:


> * "will be done on trailer though..."*
> 
> Dude, Get real man, us dirt bag sailors just find the nearest beach.....:captain:


I know I know quit bragging...this isnt el salvador or thailand, its a georgia power regulated lake...cant even night sail geeeze

Imagine if they see me careening my boat somewhere on the lake

AJAJAJAJAJAAJAJAJAJAJAJAAJJAA and painting AJAJAJAAJAJAJAJA

whatever!:cut_out_animated_em


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

well you know what they say...never own 2 sailboats at one time so on that note Im putting up the merit for sale(dont want to but have to)

asking $4.5k negotiable(trailer alone is 2k) can sell trailer separately as well.

*new dual axle trailer* used just once to get boat in the lake...
racing dacron main by piranha sails
kevlar north sails 150% genoa 2012
3 spinnies ALL in excellent shape
reaching staysail
1 mylar blade fair
1 jib fair
2 genoas 150 and 155 in poor shape but serviceable
1 north sails stock main in good shape(could use new boltrope)
all spinnaker and running rigging gear in good shape or replaced
new mainsheet, traveller and backstay rigging replaced
new cabin cushions
new plexi companionway door/hatch

perfect shape mid 2000s* nissan/tohatsu 3.5hp*, rebuild kit, new petcock, new gas tank, new hoses, works like a charm and is light at 27lbs. LONGSHAFT get 2 hours plus out of tank.
new marine pine treated outboard mount

everything works...good gear, racing history, good winches, handles, etc
electrical has been hooked(in the process) as well
camping battery installed
porta potty new.
mast and standing rigging are in perfect shape with mods added by previous owner(check stays to hull, hull is also strengthened with cheeks under the mast compression post) removeable forward lowers, tabernacle stock mast

lastly the boat is fast, nimble and everything the j24 isnt! JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA
very very little leaks, they mostly come in through the double deck hatch that is a racing design issue of the boat when spinnaker racing.

kidding about the j24 comment jajaja

Ill take offers and will consider trades and even payments...

need the money to finish and finance my islander 36(trip late nomvember)

*will deliver withing 200miles MY COST.
*
zipcode 31906

peace


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

just sailed the boat with the new kevlar 150, holy crap its an awesome sail...

north sails, kevlar combo...3 years old...really really good shape...pics to come

so new buyer beware, you might go too fast with this new setup! jajajaja

peace

ps, I have an ad in the classiffieds section if anyone is interested...will deliver within 200mile radius or so(that includes lake lanier where you can race her again)


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## nota33 (Apr 23, 2019)

any one use a single point lift to launch their merit 25 ?

what keel bolt does the lifting eye attach to ? pictures ?

the local coconut grove sailing center only has a single point lift no slings

so I bought an 5/8 threaded eye to go on a keel bolt but unsure if that is safe 
or I should go with some kind of rig to use more then a single keel bolt to lift the boat
to spread the loads over several keel bolts


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## ssmith1627 (3 mo ago)

Christian, are you still sailing your Merit ? I just bought a Merit 25 myself and looking to connect with anyone I can. Would love to talk if you're interested. I grew up in Gastonia but I live in Chattanooga now.



christian.hess said:


>


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