# Replacing Corroded Mast Step



## pearson301 (Oct 23, 2001)

I am finally taking care of a long neglected item on my Pearson 303. The mast step and bottom edge of the mast are corroded. The yard wants to cut a couple of inches of the mast and install new step on top of a fiberglassed wood block to make up the difference. Seems reasonable to me, but I recall from years ago when I was active on this list, there was a company that one could send the cut off portion of the mast to, and they would manufacture a new step, I believe out of delrin, that would make up the difference.

Anybody familiar with a company that could do it? Any other suggestions?

thanks for any input,
Peter Lindeman
P 303, Blue Chip
Charleston


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I would go with what your yard is telling you to do. It is pretty common to cut off the bottom few inches off of the mast, and then raise the mast step to compensate for the lost mast length. It also helps prevent future problems, since the mast foot won't be sitting as low in the bilge after doing this. Make sure they drill drain holes in the mast or mast foot, so that any water that comes down the mast can drain into the bilge.


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## SEMIJim (Jun 9, 2007)

While you're about it: If you don't have one already, consider adding a halyard organizer plate. Our boat has one. _Very_ handy!

Jim


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## SVCarolena (Oct 5, 2007)

Glad to see another P303 member on Sailnet! Welcome.

I suggest you join the pearson google e-mail group/list and also ask your question there. Run a search of the Sailnet boards and you should find a recent post explaining how to join. We have had a number of discussions in the past (as part of the old Sailnet lists) regarding mast steps. I think there may even be someone who replaced the one on their P303. You may get a discount if you order from a shop that has already done the fabrication. That said, the approach suggested by the yard is basically correct - cut off the bad part of the mast and build a new base or larger step to make up the difference.


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

I just wouldn't go with wood wood for the riser block. I did this last year and used solid fiberglass. The compression forces can be pretty heavy. The solid glass block will withstand them, the wood may not. If not, the glass casing would crack, and since the riser block is in the bilge, water will intrude and rot ensue.

I second the mast plate idea. Fabricate your own block and use the money saved to buy the mast plate.


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## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

pearson301, Here in Florida, we frequently have situations where the bottom of the mast and step or shoe have corroded badly on many types of keel stepped boats. 
Our usual method of correcting the problem is to have a new step fabricated of aluminum. Whatever amount we have had to cut from the bottom of the spar is figured into the new step. 
Unless the situation calls for it, I don't try to build up the area. I have found that it's easier and just as cost effective to have the machine shop build a higher step.
Sailingdog is correct about making sure that you have limber-holes for drainage. However, you can often save money by doing some of the simple machining yourself. 
For instance, if your step is really bad, then you probably won't be able to remove the bolt and will have to drill new holes anyway. 
You may as well drill a drain hole too. ]
Do try to keep the area dry or the new step will begin to corrode right away. 
Bed the new step well to keep moisture out. 
A halyard organizer plate would be a great idea but I'm not sure how useful it will be in the bilge.


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

From what I've seen, which isn't as extensive as a professional rigger, there are two kinds of halyard organizer plates, those that sit under the step, which only makes sense on a deck stepped rig, and those that go around the mast at deck level, used for keel stepped rigs. In either case, you need to unstep the mast to install them. I don't want to hijack this thread into a religious discussion, but ome believe that our masts should be unstepped annually others not so much. If you fall into the latter category, it might make sense to do other things that require the mast to be unstepped while it is in that position. That's the reason for suggesting the mast plate.

Note to entrepreneurs: There might be a market for a halyard organizer deck plate that comes in two parts, designed to bolt together around a stepped mast.

Regarding the riser vs aluminum step decision, I think there are multiple "good" approaches here. Pearson used a steel step, bolted to the top of the keel in the bilge to hold an aluminum mast. This put unlike metals in a likely electrolyte solution, which is a formula for corrosion. That was definitely the case with my step. It only lasted 29 years. While at that point the walls of the mast were getting rather thin at the bottom couple of inches, the step itself was fine. By making a fiberglass riser that I then glassed in and using the original, cleaned up step, I minimized cost without compromising strength and reduced the likelihood of the unlike metals sitting in an electrolyte. But even if I only get another 29 years out of it, I think it a pretty good solution. (I'll be 86, the boat 59. We'll both likely be out of service by then.) Total cost: < $100. Clearly, having a step fabricated will work, too. And it will reduce the unlike metal situation. (I say reduce, not remove, because I assume you won't be using aluminum screws to hold the step down.)

Anyway, IRMV. Think it through. That's what these forums are good for. You get lots of opinions, and you know what they are worth - what you pay for them! Good luck.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Peter-
I would avoid aluminum only out of worry that the alloy might not be the same, leading to possible galvanic issues down the line. And I'd avoid glass over wood, because I would expect Delrin (or a similar UHDPE or solid fioberglass stock, both of which McMaster sell) to be a simpler, stronger solution. With a little careful measurement, a Delrin block, or block laid up from fiberglass stock (offhand, you can buy it up to 1" thick as boards), could have a new mast step routed into it with a woodworking router, and a couple of limber holes drilled down from that.

One piece, can't corrode, impervious to water, and I'd think a lot less labor than making up a custom glass-over-wood assembly, too.


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## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

These pictures are the before and after of the mast step in a Pearson 323 that is in progress now. We cut about two inches off the bottom of the spar.


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Beautiful work for an ugly situation there knotty!


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## RXBOT (Sep 7, 2007)

*So So*

Much better replacement obviously, but the welding is sub par to what I would expect if done by a professional.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Nice chunk of work there!

Just remember, you MUST put a small gold coin (the dowry) under the mast when you restep it. Wouldn't want to tempt the fates after all that work, would you?[g]


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## Stillraining (Jan 11, 2008)

Ya thoes crappy built Irwin's have it rigged this way... with a bridge so water cant get at the mast...an 1 1/4" hole is dead center in the shoe to let water drain that enters masts penetrations above deck and facilitate routing electrical lines up the dedicated mast conduit run...25 years and there was zero corrosion at the shoe...mast has never been cut either...just junk I tell you junk...

Ok Ill get at the wire mess someday...can I go sailing first ??


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## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

RXBOT said:


> Much better replacement obviously, but the welding is sub par to what I would expect if done by a professional.


The machine shop who built the step has been in business for decades and has a very good reputation. I suppose that were the step not located under the cabin sole they might have spent a little more time grinding the welds but considering what they charge and how substantial the part is, I think they did a pretty damn good job. 
The owner is pleased as well.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Put the coin in a plastic zip lock baggie, since gold will cause the other metals fits...  Same with silver coins... 


hellosailor said:


> Nice chunk of work there!
> 
> Just remember, you MUST put a small gold coin (the dowry) under the mast when you restep it. Wouldn't want to tempt the fates after all that work, would you?[g]


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

Knotty - Wow, that step was absolutely shot! I guess individual results DO vary. My step, after I cleaned it up looked a lot like the new one, just without the built-in riser. What made me do the job was that the mast itself was getting rather thin-walled. It was pitted and in some places, even corroded all the way through, a few pea-sized holes. I was concerned about compression failure. What did the bottom couple of inches of the mast look like from that 323?

Nice job, by the way.


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## Iflyka200s (Oct 3, 2007)

Knot/Steve,

Nice repair. I've been welding for 10 years as an A&P I think they did a nice job. Aluminum is pretty tough to weld!


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## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

Here is what I cut from the bottom of the stick and a picture of the step and mast in place. 
You're right about the plastic around the coin SD. I pulled a stick awhile back and there was a perfect circle of green powder where a coin used to be and a nice hole eaten into the step where it sat.

View attachment 2177


View attachment 2178


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

One interesting thing I saw on a boat was an aluminum tank with two perfectly round holes in the top and bottom. Each was exactly the diameter of a dime... when we pulled the tank, what do you think we found in the bilge under the tank... Two dimes.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Baggie plastic is not forever. I'd stick it in wax or epoxy if I was going to stick it. But since when does gold--most "noble" of coinage metals--cause problems with other metals? Assuming one isn't going to cheap out and use something like 14K red gold, which might be half copper.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

In my experience, the coins are generally silver, since they're supposed to be used to pay Charon, the Ferryman, and silver is the cost of passage across the river Styx. I guess you could use gold, but I've never seen gold used personally.


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## pearson301 (Oct 23, 2001)

*Corroded mast step update*

A happy update:

Dan Pfeiffer referred me to Dick Conti, formerly of Metalmast Marine, now with DC Products, LLC. After some discussion with Dick, the yard cut off about two inches of the mast and sent that and the old step off to Dick in CT. Dick knew I was under a time constraint and turned it around quickly. Everything is put back together and I am a happy camper. For a reasonable price, Dick created a beautiful alluminum step, that the yard and I agree was very well done. Dick could not have been better or easier to work with. I recommend him highly.

I would provide my and Dick's e mail, but this system will not allow it.

Peter Lindeman 
P 303, Blue Chip
Charleston


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## SVCarolena (Oct 5, 2007)

Glad to hear it all came together so quickly. Please post a picture of the finished product when you get a chance - this is something I may need to attended to on our P303 in the next few years.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

You'll be able to post links after you have ten posts. Please read the post in my signature to help you get more out of sailnet. 



pearson301 said:


> A happy update:
> 
> Dan Pfeiffer referred me to Dick Conti, formerly of Metalmast Marine, now with DC Products, LLC. After some discussion with Dick, the yard cut off about two inches of the mast and sent that and the old step off to Dick in CT. Dick knew I was under a time constraint and turned it around quickly. Everything is put back together and I am a happy camper. For a reasonable price, Dick created a beautiful alluminum step, that the yard and I agree was very well done. Dick could not have been better or easier to work with. I recommend him highly.
> 
> ...


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## StarGazerI (Feb 5, 2012)

Have 1983 Pearson 303. Mast step corroded bad and will need to make repairs.. Any help or ideas would be most welcome. StarGazer "usadco (at) comcast (dot) net 603 312 5216 HELP!!!!


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## klshoreguy (Jun 9, 2012)

Any chance these pictures still exist? I have this very problem today.

I know dead thread, but wasn't getting far on the Pearson thread.


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## pearson301 (Oct 23, 2001)

Im afraid I don't have the pictures, and I sold the boat a couple of years ago to an older gentleman in Beaufort, SC. I'm happy to help any way I can.

Peter


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## klshoreguy (Jun 9, 2012)

Peter

What did you use to cut the mast? Also, was anything done in the bilge area or do you just use longer screws to attach the plate? What type of screws? Do they make aluminum screws?

I have a guy who can weld me a new plate, but I like the idea of raising it up and out of the bilge water. Maybe build up a fiberglass dam around/under
the plate.

thanks

Keith


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## GeorgeDuBose (Jan 28, 2007)

Old Thread, new info.

If anyone needs a mast step fabricated, Dick Conti at 
D/C Products, 
275 Kate Downing Road
Plainfield, Ct 06374

has fabricated anodized aluminum steps for Pearson 36-1s and 10Ms.

I am ordering one soon. I have to send the old rusty step and a 1-2" slice off the foot of the mast.


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## Putzmeister31 (Jan 12, 2015)

Has anyone tried using phenolic? If so what was your experience with it?


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