# BVI: self-provisioning & money questions



## jelman (Mar 28, 2010)

We will be chartering from Horizon out of Nanny Cay in mid-July, and plan to self-provision. This is our first time in the BVI and we'll be following what seems to be a pretty standard itinerary for 7 days. Two questions:

1. Is it feasible to re-stock at any of the other islands? If so, where would you recommend going?

2. I keep seeing recommendations to take either cash or travelers checks, because ATMs are scarce and many smaller places don't accept credit cards. Is this still current advice? I travel a lot internationally and must confess that I haven't seen a travelers check in years! Are there really few ATMs (esp. at the smaller islands), and are travelers checks truly the way to go?

Thanks,

Jeff


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## btrayfors (Aug 25, 2006)

1. No. Only a few islands other than Tortola have any provisions at all. Trellis Bay, Beef Is. has minimal provisions. Ditto for The Bitter End, Virgin Gorda. Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda has some. All are more expensive than Tortola. From Nanny Cay, take a taxi into town. Several supermarkets are there.

2. TC's are good, cash is better (no hassle cashing the cash). Some establishments take credit cards.

Stock up in Road Town for the trip. You can easily carry 7 days provisions on any charter boat and, if you should forget something, you might be lucky and find it at one of the other islands.

There are also many good restaurants on the islands. Plan on eating ashore. To miss that is to miss some golden opportunities.

Bill


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

The BVI has developed along with the rest of the world.

In Roadtown, Bobby's (my choice) or RTW are the way to go for initial provisioning. Both take credit cards. If you have a lot of alcohol to buy look at Tico or Caribbean Cellars.

There are pretty good provisioning opportunities in Spanish Town and Leverick Bay on Virgin Gorda and both Trellis Bay and Soper's Hole on Tortola. Convenience store type goods can be picked up in Bitter End (Virgin Gorda), on Anegada, in Great Harbour (JVD), and Marina Cay.

Bobby's, Riteway, and Ample Hamper all allow you to pre-order and will deliver to your charter boat free. Ticos and CC will do the same. If you can't track them down with Google let me know and I'll send contact information.

ATMs are widely installed but don't always work.

I generally take a boat kitty of three or four hundred dollars and credit cards. I haven't taken traveler's checks to the BVI since the early 80s.

Watch out for National Parks moorings - the last few years maintenance has been poor. Most of the overnight MoorSecure moorings are in great shape but not all the moorings in popular anchorages belong to them.

Bill is correct there are a bunch of great places to eat ashore. Spaghetti Junction in Roadtown is my favorite first night place to eat. Cooper Island Beach Club is under new management and the reviews are all over the map; I'd stop there for drinks and eat aboard for the best sunset around. Anchor off Mosquito Island (the old Drake's Anchorage in North Sound Virgin Gorda) and dinghy in to Leverick Bay. There is an outstanding spa there, a very good restaurant upstairs, and free WiFi at Jumbies. In Anegada everyone should try the lobster once, but for my money the tuna at Neptune's Treasure is better. Take a cab to Cow Wreck for lunch; if Walker is on-island please tell him Dave from Auspicious says hello. Marina Cay is a great stop with easy access to snorkeling at Monkey Point. Skip Trellis Bay - since the airport runway was extended it isn't worth the carbon unless you have some good reason to go there. On JVD, Stanley's in Little Harbour and Soggy Dollar in White Bay are must stops. One Love is good for dinner in White Bay. On the way to JVD Sandy Spit is a great lunch stop with the chance to run around a deserted island. CGB is no longer worth the stop; the last icon of days of yore (Quito) recently sold his restaurant and isn't seen around much anymore.

All my opinion, based on many many trips since 1982 and as recently as last year. I have friends there who also keep me up on the latest *grin* 

Have a great time. It's hard not to.


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## MMR (Oct 5, 2007)

Too bad about Quito. Love his music. Any idea what he's up to?


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## jelman (Mar 28, 2010)

Bill and Dave,

Thank you both for the replies. The detailed info is really appreciated. 

Dave, yes, I did know about Bobby's and have been going thru their provisioning lists. We'll bring a lot of the dry good stuff w/us from San Diego, and will try to stock up pretty completely in Tortola. It's useful to know about possibilities on the other islands, particularly for convenience good items. 

Thank you too for the tip about moorings, and suggestions for places to eat. This is our first time in the BVIs and we're looking forward to it very much!

Jeff


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

Jeff --

Look at the numbers for buying dry goods on the island. There is hardly anything you can't get. As the airlines almost all charge for carry-on you will likely save money by buying in the BVI if you can drop a bag in the process.

The stuff that does make sense to bring are spices you frequently use in Ziploc bags. 

I'm a foodie and have never felt I couldn't get what I wanted at a reasonable price in BVI. I've provisioned for offshore passages in Tortola and achieved the same kinds of budgets as in the US.

The BVI are one of my favorite cruising grounds. Let me know if I can share anything that will help you enjoy it as much as I.


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

Err what about Foxies. No trip to the BVIs is complete without eating at Foxies/listening to Foxy/sampling his brews and giving it some on the dance floor.

Oh yes take the old T shirt with the crews names on it, you will see why.


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## Zanshin (Aug 27, 2006)

If you are taking a 7-day standard type of excursion, you will always be within one or at most 2 days (if going to Anegada) of a moderately well-stocked grocery store. While prices for groceries are generally higher outside of Road Town and selection can be limited, you certainly won't go hungry.

I spent many weeks at the old Sunsail base at Hodge's Creek and watched the charter boats come and go. Watching them go was ... interesting (think of the bumper-car rides at the fairgrounds) ... but when they returned the dock and cleaning crews often toted carloads of groceries back home - as has been mentioned earlier in this thread there are numerous restaurants and bars ashore and charterers seldom eat aboard as much as they expect.

Depending upon how many aboard and what size fridge you have, it might make sense to get fresh food and alcoholic beverages / other drinks on the way but stock up on meats, condiments and other specialty type foods in Road Town. The two groceries around Nanny Cay (Bobby's at the docks and the other store whose name I can't recall across the way) are just "OK" in terms of selection and pricing. The best stocked store within walking distance of a dinghy dock is at Soper's Hole (wear long pants and a winter jacket unless you want to freeze in the store), with the store at the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour coming second.


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## oceanscapt (Aug 1, 2009)

While you can self-provision the penalty is loss of time. There are a number of stores but that means taxis, shopping, checking out, getting back to the boat and making sure you haven't forgotten anything. Another thing is that the you may not know the size of the fridge. If you have them do it, the fridge will be stocked and cold, items will be put away, and all you have to do is check out the purchase list, cast off, and enjoy the time on the water.

My suggestion is to inquire with the charter company about provisioning costs. You may find that the cost isn't much more than you'd pay if you did it yourself (many of the charter agencies get discounts from the stores). The other solution may be to bring it down yourself. Purchase the most expensive items, pack them securely, and pay the added baggage costs.


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## KindOfBlue (Nov 22, 2005)

TQA said:


> Err what about Foxies. No trip to the BVIs is complete without eating at Foxies/listening to Foxy/sampling his brews and giving it some on the dance floor.
> 
> Oh yes take the old T shirt with the crews names on it, you will see why.


Last time I was at Foxies (March 2010), they were watching videos of dog fighting. Yuck!


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

The provisioning packages directly from the charter companies are generally expensive. Bobbies / RTW / Ample Hamper let you make your own choices ahead of time over the Internet and deliver free to the boat. What's not to like?

Foxy doesn't drop by his place to sing much anymore.


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## KindOfBlue (Nov 22, 2005)

Did anyone mention the cash and carry? Lots of good deals to be had, but you need to buy 3 of everything. 

The Tico around the corner from the cash and carry had the best prices on beer and wine. Bud light is $19/case. 

I find that bobbies is more expensive than any of the other grocery stores, but they have lobster tails (@ $80 for 2!).

Riteway has $2.50 pre-made sandwiches and I always get one. 

1mart has water bottled called Aloha. Best price you will find anywhere. 

The best way to save money is to drive around, but you may not want to do this on your vacation.


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## oceanscapt (Aug 1, 2009)

JVD hasn't been the same since they got power and running water.


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## RealityCheck (Jun 2, 2007)

For a short charter like your talking about, I totally agree with the poster who said you are wasting your valuable time in self provisioning. Go with some place like Bobbies... you will have all delivered in great condition and you will always have a bunch of stuff left over... do it anyway!

Your time is far more valuable unless you get some kick out of going grocery shopping. Do not worry about the minor extra cost if your only going to be down for such a short time! Get out and sail and snorkel, swim and hike. You will find you will eat less than you though unless you are a lard ass and just set on the boat all day. 

Far too many great places to eat with great atmosphere for a vacation to worry about cooking all meal or even most on the boat. I would recommend the partial rather than full provisions..... however lots of us really love it when you do go the full provisions as you typically start giving the stuff away on your last few days!!! Just a few days ago I got several months supply of liquor and can goods from people putting the boat on the hard. Now these were not charter people but real cruisers and even they always have too much food on board.... same as you WILL find with your luggage. A family of 5 can live well with ONE suitcase of clothing. NO ONE needs 90% of what the typical charter people bring down. A couple of pairs of shorts and one shirt... you will buy t shirts here, one swim suite for when you are around other people and a good wide brim hat and sunglasses and a pair of good boat shoes the sandal type with Velcro straps are best and can be use in the water or on land...... but you will probably only learn that after 3 or 4 trips! The more you bring the less fun you will have.


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## rundugrun (Feb 1, 2010)

*Foxy, self-provisioning and other stuff*

I just got back from a charter on June 17th. When we stopped by Foxy's in Great Harbour, Foxy was there chatting with the patrons and even recited a poem to our family about New Jersey...

I like to self-provision, because we usually arrive early afternoon and since we're not getting off the dock anyway until the next day, we spend that afternoon and early evening going to grocery stores to provision. Others are correct that you are able to get food in lots of places (Leverick Bay, Soper's Hole, Spanish Town). Either way, you can't go wrong.

Have Fun!

Doug


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## NotQuiteCapnRon (Mar 27, 2008)

If you are like me and you want to see your fresh foods before purchasing, then have anything heavy or packaged pre-ordered and delivered to the dock, and then go pick fresh fruit, veggies and meat at the grocery. It doesn't take any longer for me to pick out a few fresh foods in the BVI than it does in the US. Send two non sailing types to do that chore and keep the sailors on the boat to do briefings and figure out where everything is. The taxi drivers are usually more than willing to wait for you while you shop...just politely tell them your plan and ask how much it will cost. It's "Island Time" nobody is in a hurry.

I always carry cash and credit cards. Business's prefer Visa and MC over Amex. Many do not take Amex. 

You can get staples at numerous locations throughout the BVI as mentioned. Leverick Bay, Gorda Sound has a little grocery and fine dining.

Ron


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## jelman (Mar 28, 2010)

Thanks to all for the many useful suggestions and advice. The information I've gotten on this site has been fantastic, and I appreciate everyone's enthusiasm and detailed comments. They've been really helpful. 

We leave tomorrow morning and are excited! 

Jeff


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## jeffwynn (Jul 12, 2010)

*Provisioning at Nanny Cay*

Hey, have a great time--I'm so jealous of being down in the islands. In February, we chartered with one of the big multi-island companies whose BVI boats are in Nanny Cay February (can I mention the company name? I've sailed on their boats many years, and they've been great!).

There is a little store right in the Nanny Cay complex along with the charter company and many other shops. Stuff was more expensive in that market, and the selection of fruits and veggies not huge, but adequate. We provisioned for two in about a half-hour, and toted our purchases down to the boat in one of their buggies. In another half-hour, we were stowed up and ready to go. For us, it was good balance between time, expense and choosing our own food...YMMV.

Be safe and have fun!


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## jeffwynn (Jul 12, 2010)

*A public reply to a private post*

{Hi all -- I am too new to actually be able to post privately, but I'd like to respond to Jeff, so here goes}

Hi Jeff,

Indeed, we chartered on Horizon. This was my first time out at BVI, although it is perhaps the fourth or fifth bareboat Horizon charter as skipper or crew I've been on. The Horizon folks have been great on all three islands we've sailed with them on -- Grenada, Antigua, and BVI. I've sailed in the company of some friends chartering with other companies on other islands, and I really see no reason not to go with Horizon when possible. Others may have had different experiences.

I can't remember the name of the market, but there was enough there to provision adequately. It was small--way smaller than your typical convenience store. The variety, however, was remarkable for a shop of that size. We do tend to cook on the boat more than others, so if you are planning on eating out a lot, maybe that is no big deal.

As for itinerary, we really enjoyed the baths--touristy though it was. It was worth it. It is probably worth dinghying in and walking along the beach and under the boulders on the path, then maybe snorkeling back to the dink.

The caves were pretty good snorkeling, too. We enjoyed rum punch at Norman Island--we ended up spending two nights there.

At JVD, there is a place called the spa or something like that. Anchor or moor, and take a quick hike to the north shore. Bring swimsuit and a canned refreshment and enjoy the bubbling waves come in.

Bottom line is that no matter where you pick, it is wonderful and you will have a great time. The sailing is easy, destinations not too far apart, and the locals are generally friendly. The maintained mooring balls in BVI are a true luxury not present anywhere else in the Caribbean.

And also, if you are on a Bavaria, which you are almoster certainly going to be, MAKE SURE THAT THE TRANSOM SEAT IS SECURED TO THE BOAT WITH SOME ROPE. We lost that damned thing about 700 yards west of the indians just after snorkeling. Ploop! Then the slow-motion sinking in 300+ feet of water....the latches are easy to forget and the seat is very pricy!

Please let us know how your trip went!

J-


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## NotQuiteCapnRon (Mar 27, 2008)

Yes....The "Bubbly Pool" is not to be missed. Anchor or pick up a mooring ball (about 10) just south of Little Jost. Dinghy over to Foxy's Taboo on Jost and take the hike to the pool. They will give you a map at Taboo, but its easy to find. It is a great time.

Ron


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## jelman (Mar 28, 2010)

*thanks!*

Excellent tips, Jeff. Thanks. Especially about the Bavaria transom seat (yes, we'll be on Scallaywag, a 33' 2008 Bavaria). This is all great info and a terrific help. As i said, we leave tomorrow AM. Get to Tortola late evening (long day from San Diego) and then will begin the charter Wednesday. We're looking forward to it. The weather seems to be a bit unsettled right now, but I understand that's typical this time of year. That's ok, though--as long as we're on the boat we'll have fun! I'll post a summary of how things went when we return.

Jeff

(Ron, just saw your post too -- thanks!)


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## jeffwynn (Jul 12, 2010)

:laugher 

Well, you may not have to worry about tying down that seat after all. 

Unless they've got a new one in from Germany.

Please note that that is a small boat, and, accordingly, it goes slower than the bigger boats. When choosing destintions, you may need to consider the additional 25% ish time it takes to get between destinations at 4.5-5 knots rather than 6-8 of a 40' boat. Not a problem for me, as I'm really there to sail. The snorkeling, food, and rum punches are merely...perks.

Aside: That was a nice boat, everything worked perfectly, including the heads.


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