# cal 25 help



## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ok so decided to start a tread dedicated to the new boat.

i just picked up a call 25 for free. no outboard. no trailer. no sails. 

what is a good size outboard for this boat?

were can i find good strong sails that arnt an arm and a leg. i mean over 1000 just for one? i cant do it. i don't care if they are used as long as in good condition


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Google 'used sails', and 'sailboat rig dimensions'.

There are several used sail outlets, on-line and local consignment where utility sails might be found for cheap. To choose, you need comparable rig size.

CAL 25 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

Your rig dimension are on the above page. J is distance mast to bow fitting, I is deck to top of forestay, P is height from boom to top of mainsail, E is length of main along the boom.

A 6-8hp outboard should be adequate, but smaller will get you out there too. For longer trips you may need more power due to the increased odds of headwinds or current.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Ok I found a good running older evinrude 10hp for $100


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

I used to sail a Cal 25 with a 5hp. It was adequate. 10hp might be overkill, but if it's a good engine and only $100, I'd take it.


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## overbored (Oct 8, 2010)

make sure it is a long shaft outboard with a prop for a sailboat
Cal 25 main for $ 495 http://www.minneysyachtsurplus.com/mainsails.html


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Ok. Can I use the buccaneer sails as a temp?


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## krisscross (Feb 22, 2013)

concorde01 said:


> were can i find good strong sails that arnt an arm and a leg. i mean over 1000 just for one? i cant do it. i don't care if they are used as long as in good condition


Be prepared to pay at least $800 for both sails if they are in decent shape. First thing, you have to get the sail dimensions right for your boat. Raise the measuring tape with the main halyard to make sure you have a standard rig, and measure your boom.
If you get sails that do not fit your boat, adjusting them to size will cost you another $300 or more.


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## krisscross (Feb 22, 2013)

concorde01 said:


> Ok. Can I use the buccaneer sails as a temp?


Measure them to make sure that they are not too big for your rig. If they are a tad smaller, that is not a problem.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Ok ty


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Ok because they are good sails. And d like to use them for awhile


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## CatMan22 (Apr 16, 2012)

Here's sail dimensions for the Cal 25:

CAL 25 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

B210 rig dimensions:

I:23.80' J:8.10' 
P:20.00' E:8.30' 

Cal 25

I:29.80' J:10.00' / 3.05m
P:25.00' E:11.00' / 3.35m

The Buccaneer sails will be substantially too small... but whatever...


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Yes but they are only intended as a back up


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

We had a Coronado 25 on San Francisco Bay for many years. Started with a 6HP outboard which was adequate in calm conditions, & soon went to a 15HP which was the same size & weight as the 9.9HP. The 15 HP was plenty, very seldom ran it flat out.

I think the Cal 25 is similar to the Coronado 25, weight wise? The 10HP motor should get it done in most heavy weather, big chop conditions. Unless the Cal 25 has a well, I would think a long shaft motor would be necessary if there is any chop to contend with?

Paul T


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Motor mounting


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## RobertMw (Nov 17, 2013)

Go to the Cal 25 class association website, I am sure you could find some info there.


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

concorde01 said:


> Motor mounting


Ah, not a well, but better than a transom bracket. Looks like a long shaft would be best. However, for $100 for the motor, you could fit a 20" transom extender kit to the motor

omc 9.9 Shaft Length Differences

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Evinrude+outboard+motor+shaft+extensions

Or, you could just put it on & try it, looks like the transom cut out is fairly low?

Paul T


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

pics of the boat. needs a bath bad


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## krisscross (Feb 22, 2013)

Very nice for a free boat. Congratulations!


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Well i havnt seen the inside yet,


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## SuperiorCal25 (Oct 7, 2013)

Hello,
I also sail a Cal 25, #986, on Lake Superior. Some thoughts on motor for you.

First: you absolutely need a long shaft motor. Mine is an extra-long 25" shaft and works great. I had to use my 15" shaft dinghy motor once in a pinch, and it kept cavitating at the surface when we we in chop, or if more than one person was on deck.

Size: Our boat came with an '76 7.5hp Merc Electric Long shaft. It had plenty of power to get it up to hull speed, even with head wind and decent chop. I swapped it out because it only had a 2 blade, high pitch prop which was bad for low-speed thrust. Our new motor is a 9.9hp Yamaha XL shaft 4 stroke. I got a good deal on it used, and it's been a great upgrade. My thoughts are however that at about 94lbs it is pretty heavy, the big, 3 blade high thrust prop is amazing compared to what I had. At 9.9 though, it is well over-powered though. I don't have an tachometer, but it seems to take only about 2/3 throttle to get the boat to its 7.5mph hull speed speed. Beyond that, it just makes an excellent fuel to noise converter.

On rigging, another bit of advice, check out Seals Spars and Rigging, they sell the original spec parts. Seals Spars and Rigging: Cal 25 Catalog 
Here's a shot of my boat under sail:


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ok so should I get a 5hp


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

could you by chance send pics of the inside? and nice boat!


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

concorde01 said:


> ok so should I get a 5hp


Depends on how much head wind & heavy chop you might encounter. We originally had a 6HP on our Coronado 25 in & out of San Francisco Bay waters, which can get pretty rough. We used to make long runs outside the gate under power to go salmon fishing & up graded to a 15HP, which was the same size & weight as the 9.9, which would probably been enough.

If you don't have big headwinds & chop to contend with the 6HP should handle it, especially if you get the high thrust, lower pitch prop.

Paul T


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Keep in mind that gas engines use less fuel, live a lot longer and are a lot quieter too at low RPM . They aren't like diesels that love to be worked hard.

I had a 6 on a 20' and it was not too much. I'd put an 8 or 9.9 on a Cal 25 - that's a 2 ton boat empty.

Long 9.9's were created specifically as sailboat pushers due to common "10 HP" registration cutoffs. Since few boats much bigger than 2 or 2 1/2 tons use outboards, except in desperation (no money), you do the math


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## the_abuse (Jan 12, 2014)

no boat is ever FREE i said that once


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## SuperiorCal25 (Oct 7, 2013)

concorde01 said:


> could you by chance send pics of the inside? and nice boat!


I don't have many shots of the interior, because it's not very flashy. Here's on that shows my favorite feature, my chart-table. You can see a bit of it also in the beginning of this video from our sail the other day:


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ty i like the chart table idea. first thing is to get it out of the water and cleaned up. looks like its been in a long time


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

TSP is your friend for a boat with our local black mould on the gelcoat like that. You'll probably have to scrub it on your hands & knees with a stiff brush rather than using a deck brush. You'll probably be tempted to use a pressure washer but I wouldn't - that gelcoat is probably pretty soft and porous by now.

Spray Nine works well too but I think it can be considered toxic so maybe not in the water.

P.S. looks like you got a score! Congrats & enjoy.


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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

The sails off the buc will get you out on the water they are significantly smaller and the boat won't preform as well as with sails that fit however as I said they will get you out there and the ten doesn't weigh that much more than the 6 and at a boat buck will work just fine ( you don't have to use full throttle. )


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Ok I sent. An email about the 10jp if it's a long shaft I'll grab it


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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

Snag it if it runs and pumps water if it don't work great it will work and next spring you can flip it to some fisherman for at least 300 bucks and then get the motor you want


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

I am wondering why it is just $100? If the seller won't run it for you in a barrel, it either may not run or may not pump water? If you buy it sight unseen you may have just kissed $100 away?

Paul T


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

it runs and he is willing to run it for me. 


anyway great day!!!!

1, marina has title to my new boat and are holding it for me.
2, it is a 1965 jensen 25
3, it was last tagged 2013 so may still be good. 
4, they waived there insurance requirerment for me,
5, they are gonna move it to a slip for me until i can haul it out. free oc charge


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

i willl take interior pics monday


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ok so i will be cleaning the hull and doing any repairs and paint. these are the ones i chosse.

interlux fiberglass bottomkote int-ybb379g black gallon. $182.95
interlux brightside poly int-4241q sapphire blue quart. $61.95

any info of suggestions are helpful. such as how to clean and prep the hull


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

> concorde01 said:
> 
> 
> > it runs and he is willing to run it for me.
> ...


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

They waived it because I only intend to leave it there a month or 2


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

concorde01 said:


> ok so i will be cleaning the hull and doing any repairs and paint. these are the ones i chosse.
> 
> interlux fiberglass bottomkote int-ybb379g black gallon. $182.95
> interlux brightside poly int-4241q sapphire blue quart. $61.95
> ...


There is tons of info available here and elsewhere on prepping & painting the hull - too much to go into here. Interlux provides lots of brand specific info in their paint handbook/brochure.

I'd leave the hull paint for last though - it might get banged up while you do the other stuff you'll need to do


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

that sound like a good idea. i just wasnt sure if the paints i choose were good for my intentions


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

also how would i be able to figure out how much of each i need


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

A gallon of each should be plenty. I recently used West Marine ablative on my boat and was very happy with it - 1/2 the price of Interlux. 6 months in the water and only a very thin bit of scum on it.

You should be able to get Brightside for way less than $60/quart. The last I bought was under $40.

Shop around some. Defender has good prices & fast service if you shop online.

P.S. use ALL the bottom paint - partial cans don't keep. Put extra coats on the waterline area, the leading edge of the keel & rudder etc. until it's used up.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ok. i was thinking atleast 3 coats of everything? and i know that i will be using those paints but i just dont know where ill get them. i had to do sapphire blue because i couldnt find a navy blue in a paint i liked. plus the brightside sounds like it will be a very shiny paint. and long lasting. but idk if the bottomekote is flat black or not. i want flat


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## Capt Len (Oct 9, 2011)

Military used supply places often had buckets of flat black submarine bottom paint. Used to buy it so cheap in Seattle and "import' it to Victoria Good stuff too.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Ty I will call the local places monday


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

concorde01 said:


> ok. i was thinking atleast 3 coats of everything? and i know that i will be using those paints but i just dont know where ill get them. i had to do sapphire blue because i couldnt find a navy blue in a paint i liked. plus the brightside sounds like it will be a very shiny paint. and long lasting. but idk if the bottomekote is flat black or not. i want flat


All bottom paints are flat - they generally leave a finish much like primer/surfacer. The Worst Marine house brand ablative I used was black - about $120/Gal and worked great - as good as anything I've used (for the first 6 months anyway).

I've never needed multiple coats of Brightside but I've never done a big colour change with it either.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ok good, and i think i might need atleast 2 coats as i will be going from white to blue. but i still havnt found anyone to transport the boat.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

what is the best way to aply the paints? i was told brush or roll the bottomkote and spray the top. but the info for the brightside says it look just as good rolled or brushed?


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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

Email these guys they may be able to move your boat Boat Transport


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

concorde01 said:


> what is the best way to aply the paints? i was told brush or roll the bottomkote and spray the top. but the info for the brightside says it look just as good rolled or brushed?


Rolled AND brushed - Google "rolling and tipping". It can be very good but spraying is still the best.

Roll bottom paint - fore & aft as much as possible. Use a fairly short nap roller.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ok. that helps alot. i will roll the bottom and spray the top


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Concorde.... strongly suggest you clean the boat the best you can, paint whatever antifouling you choose to use, then sail the boat for a year or two before worrying about painting anything else.

If you use so-so paint it won't look good in a year or two.

Once you paint it you can't go back.

If you clean/polish the original gel as best you can, repainting just the distinctive sheer stripe with something like Brightsides will 'dress her up' almost as much as a full repaint.

When you're on deck and sailing you don't see the hull at all!! 

On such a limited budget I can only think of other things your money is better spent on. For example no matter how 'pretty' you make her, sailing her around with B210 sails is going to look rather odd....


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

true i am looking for the right sails now.


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## SJ34 (Jul 30, 2008)

Blue over white may take up to 4 coats and don't be tempted to put on heavier coats to cover, it can turn into a disaster.  Brightsides is an excellent one part paint and very easy to apply (if you follow ALL of the mfgs suggestions). It should last a long time in your area. It stays shiny in so-cal for about 4-5 yrs depending on exposure.

BTW, I have a Cal 25. The distance from the top edge of the motor cutout in the transom to the water line is 15". Hope that helps with your motor selection.


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## SJ34 (Jul 30, 2008)

Another note, I see that the original hatch and companionway slider are missing. Jensen used very thin plywood for the sole and mahogany veneers for cabinetry. If it has been wet inside that may be where you want to spend your first efforts.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ok ty i did not know about the hatches. 

also i will be doing thin coats.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

i talked to A friend that works on boats. he has a mercury 6hp long shaft great runner for 250
he also has a 7hp honda 4stroke long shaft he will sell me for 300. great runner


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

concorde01 said:


> i talked to A friend that works on boats. he has a mercury 6hp long shaft great runner for 250
> he also has a 7hp honda 4stroke long shaft he will sell me for 300. great runner


Curious to know what happened with the $100 10 HP?

Paul T


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

They never replied


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

concorde01 said:


> They never replied


Too good to be true, or somebody else was quicker on the trigger, maybe it was "hot"? I would think a motor that size, in good running condition, would sell for at least $400.

I sold my 1964 Evinrude 2 stroke 9.5HP long shaft engine, which still had points in it, for $450 5 years ago. It ran well & pumped ample water.

Paul T


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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

concorde01 said:


> i talked to A friend that works on boats. he has a mercury 6hp long shaft great runner for 250
> he also has a 7hp honda 4stroke long shaft he will sell me for 300. great runner


Spring for the Honda straight gas and may even have a charging circuit on it


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

i was also thinking the honda.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

witch of these would be the better main?


Catalog Number: 33-SWAG-102 Luff: 25' 0" Leach: 27' 3" Foot: 10' 7" Head: 0' 0" Price: $525.00
MAIN 6.0 OZ DACRON BY NORTH. 5/8" EXTERNAL STAINLESS TRACK SLIDES WITH STAINLESS SHACKLES AND NYLON PROTECTORS SET TO GROMMETS ON COVERED ROPE LUFF. LEECH/FOOT LINES. CUNNINGHAM CRINGLE. REEFS UP TO 3-9". FOUR BATTENS ONE FULL THREE STANDARD INCLUDED. BLUE PEEL OFF INSIGNIA " CAL 25 ". BLUE PEEL OFF NUMBERS AND DRAFT STRIPES. THIS SAIL LOOKS NEW WITH THE EXCEPTION OF SOIL ON ONE SMALL AREA. EXCELLENT+.

Catalog Number: 130-DAHO-104 Luff: 25' 0" Leach: 27' 2" Foot: 10' 9" Head: 0' 0" Price: $350.00
MAIN 6.5oz DACRON BY NORTH. 5/8" EXTERNAL BRONZE TRACK SLIDES WEBBED TO GROMMETS ON COVERED ROPE LUFF. LEECH LINE. LOOSE FOOT WITH SHELF. CUNNINGHAM CRINGLE. REEF UP TO 3' 8". FOUR STANDARD BATTENS NOT INCLUDED. BLACK PEEL OFF ADHESIVE NUMBERS AND RED PEEL OFF DRAFT STRIPES. BLACK PEEL OFF INSIGNIA " CAL 25 ". VERY GOOD. BLUE BAG.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Assuming the dimensions are correct, the first one. Go for the best one you can afford - the main is the workhorse of the boats wardrobe.

I imagine you will have to get it converted to boltrope or internal luff slides from external slides won't you? Every Cal 25 I've seen has an integral luff tube in the mast, not an external track. 

By the way, you are pretty lucky to find a choice of good used mains - they seldom get sold until they are pretty well used up. Where are those? Bacons?


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Idk ill have to look in to it

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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

almost time! finally get to see it tomorrow!


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Remember - pics or it didn't happen.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

o there will be pics


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

so here are pics. it was leaking around the hatch. the plywood in the deck needs replaced but other then that is was all solid,. i will have to get new rub rails also but not much else. the wood inside is dry and in good shape so it justt needs sanded and redone. you can se the water damage in the pics. it even is registured till nov of next year


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

and the rest


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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

Not bad none of the damage looks structural a month of evenings will fix her and she will be ready by spring to occupy sailable as is


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Yep were can I get new rub rails

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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

concorde01 said:


> Yep were can I get new rub rails


Try this:

DR Marine Product List

The 11th item down looks like what you need.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Wow only about 350-400 I guess it could be worse

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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

When you say "the plywood in the deck needs replaced" what ply are you referring too? The decks of those boats were cored with plywood and that will be a big job (if that's what you were referring to).

Other than that (possibility) looks like you scored - that boat was about a years gross pay when I started sailing.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Yes THAT plywood. From the forward bulk head back to the entrance 

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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

Decorative headliner plywood just like in my islander quarter inch mahogany varnished


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Do I need to recover it in fiberglass 

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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

Pull a little off and see if there is glass under it I bet there is and if there is the ply that is rotten is cosmetic if no glass then you will need to reglass


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

It is fiberglass deck then plywood then a thin layer of fiberglass

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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

Yep hate to say it but the plywood core is rotten in the coach roof


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Whats the best way to do it

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## SJ34 (Jul 30, 2008)

There are some very good repair write-ups on the Cal 25 Association web page. The wood you're referring to is a headliner but it does add some rigidity to the deck. The interior FG skin is not strictly necessary. I'm not sure why they did that, it's way too thin to be structural. 

BTW, my main is on an external track and yours probably is as well.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Yes the main is. And ya that bottom layer is about as thick as a piece of construction paper. Pointless. I may do it anyway havny decided as I HATE doing fiberglass

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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

So I am completely rebuilding. The hatch but am thinking instead of the way it was were it lifts up making it flat and stationary with just the first part sliding 

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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Also I will be done in mahogany. To match the rest od the wood work 

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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

so i am about to hopefully buy a main sail what other type do i need?


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

A foresail - jib and/or genoa. Do you have a furler?

Some kind of spinnaker is great to have too but it isn't essential.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

i do not have one...should i and is there a specific type size? i need low buget and also i intend to mostly be sailing alone along the cost


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## Barquito (Dec 5, 2007)

I would get it in sailing condition first, then paint in year two. Painting is a lot of work. Actually, everything on a boat takes a long time. Repair... sail... repeat.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

yes i have decided the paint will be next year


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Concorde.. kudos to you for taking the advice you've been getting here.. so many in your shoes just want someone to tell them they're on the right track whether they are or not. Just wanting validation they reject anything they don't want to hear.

Despite your original statement (ie 'don't tell me how crappy the Bayliner is' ).. you realized the people here had a point and responded by 'changing course'. Now, with a much better boat you're doing the same thing... leave the paint til later - it's not important.

Good for you, and I think the support and patience you've gotten from the membership here is amazing.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

it is amazing. 1ks of views. and alot of help. so paint will wait till next summer. i may do a dive to inspect though because it was reccomened by the local haulout that i atleast dive and scrape the hull if needed. but first i need to rebuild the main entranch hatch. i have a new hatch for the bow as it does leak. the new one how ever wont. i intend to use the bow hatch off a bayliner cierra i gutted. it is in great shape with rubber seal around it to keep out water. it is also clear to let in light witch will be very nice. 
it is a learning curve. i am fixing the leaking hatches then the deck. then the interior will be sanded and resealed and painted. with electrica; being done at the same time.
i have a newer ice box for it. the accutual fridge style witch will be going on the port side by the sink. there is no stove so i might install a small one


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Definitely clean the hull.. applying antifouling sooner than later might not be a bad idea depending on local conditions.. but painting the topsides to make her 'pretty' can certainly wait.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

very true. what are good ways i can make it easier for a single person to sail?


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

concorde01 said:


> i do not have one...should i and is there a specific type size? i need low buget and also i intend to mostly be sailing alone along the cost


If you will be singlehanding, especially on the Oregon coast, I'd definitely get a furler. You be best to talk to a rigger - they are expensive. One for a Cal 25 will probably run over $2K installed.

Otherwise go with hanks - they are the cheapest way to go.

Lead your lines aft beside the companionway.

Watch Craigslist or whatever online classified is most popular in your area for deals on gear.

Get to know the consignment shops in your area and buy stuff when it's available, not when you need it - it probably won't be there then. (same thing applies to CL)

P.S. I agree with Faster - good to see someone who is smart enough and/or mature enough to recognize good advice - and take it.


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## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

it's amazing what you can bring back to near new looks with super fine sandpapers. 600 wet for bad, then 800 to a low gloss that can be polished with a buffer and compound. Just realize that gel-coat is much harder then automotive paint and it takes more effort to get it back to a glossy finish.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

could this be useful to me if it was free?

Product Detail - LC90


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Loran doesn't exist anymore - completely replaced by GPS.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

so useless


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

Is the furuno 1831 still a decent radar? It works and is only 100 for it

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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

I wont be the one paying for it it would be a gift 

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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Radar can probably wait til after the paint. Unless you are certain you will routinely sail in fog or at night this would go a ways down the priority list for a small boat.

We have radar but have only seriously 'needed' it a half-dozen times in 10 years. Mind you it was great to have at those times..

Think sails, fundamental repairs, basic full functionality (rigging - standing and running) and sail the boat for a season or two. Maybe even save the radar for the 'next boat'...


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

TRUE but like I said its a gift 

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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Does it have all the cables, mounts, brackets, manual, etc with it?

I suppose you could always flip it.. or put that $100 (gift??) towards something more immediately practical.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Oregon coast is pretty foggy in my experience.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

SloopJonB said:


> Oregon coast is pretty foggy in my experience.


True....


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

ok but is it a decent radar?


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

What difference does it make? It works and it's free. Furuno is a big name in Radar for what that's worth.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

but it's not free..... $100!

OK, good deal for a working radar. Just make sure everything you'll need to actually install and use it is there. But PLEAASE don't put a 36" radome on a Cal 25


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

TRUE but its free to me

Sent from my Z3Z6Z7W using Tapatalk 2


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

i found a main. foot is 9.6ft
leach is 28.3
luff is 25.8.

second is
foot 9.5
leach 26
luff 24.8

third is
foot 9.4
leach 25.5
luff 24.25

all are around 100. good shape just stained but rip and patch free


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

i need a main. a jib what else? do i need any other type?


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## krisscross (Feb 22, 2013)

Measure the mast to make sure you know what is the max luff it can accommodate, and measure the boom for max foot. If in doubt, get a tad smaller sail. Jib and main is all you will really need to get started.


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

sailboat data says this

I: 29.80' / 9.08m J: 10.00' / 3.05m
P: 25.00' / 7.62m E: 11.00' / 3.35m
PY:  EY: 
SPL: ISP: 
SA(Fore.): 149.00 ft2 / 13.84 m2 SA(Main): 137.50 ft2 / 12.77 m2
Total(calc.)SA: 286.50 ft2 / 26.62 m2 DL ratio: 223.21
SA/Disp: 18.24 Est. Forestay Len.: 31.43' / 9.58m


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

boat is over an hour away so cant really measure


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

for the main the second one seems closest?


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

but bacn list same specs for jib and main? is that right?


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

With a P of 25 and an E of 11, all the mains you listed above SHOULD fit, but will be noticeably short on the foot, which may contribute to difficulty in balancing the sail plan (more likely to have lee helm perhaps) - but it will get you started.

You'll need at least a '100%' jib - ie a jib with an LP measurement approx your J measurement of 10 feet. If you're in a predominantly light air area you'll probably want to upsize eventually, but a good working jib will enable you to learn the basics and not get overpowered the first puffy/gusty day you run into.

Flying sails (spinnakers) can probably wait for a season...


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## concorde01 (Sep 28, 2014)

witch one of the 3 would you most reccomend?


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## krisscross (Feb 22, 2013)

If it was my new boat, I would not simply trust the published standard data but would measure my rig to make sure I'm buying the right sail, as re-working them is usually very expensive. I just had a smaller sail re-cut and fixed, to the tune of almost $300 (including shipping). I was happy with the job they did, but it was still a good chunk of cash. If the mast on your boat is not original, or has been shortened for some reason, the typical cal25 sails may not fit.


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## kgs113 (Dec 10, 2003)

I don't know if this thread is still active but the gentleman that started it wants to rig it for solo sailing. I've done that on my Cal 25 and can give you more info if you are interested.


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## Connie Hair-Breedlove (Apr 24, 2016)

SuperiorCal25 said:


> I don't have many shots of the interior, because it's not very flashy. Here's on that shows my favorite feature, my chart-table. You can see a bit of it also in the beginning of this video from our sail the other day:


Sure would love to see how that pop top works! We just bought a Cal 25 and the top is broken in many places. We are trying to rehab it, but we don't even really know how it works. It is very heavy! Does yours have a piano hinge between the forward most hatch and the second hatch? Ours does, but think it could be an add-on. It is broken.

Any help about the pop top would be awesome!

Connie


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