# alberg 30' outboard bracket?



## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

I am looking at an Alberg 30 that has a bad Volvo md-7. I will need to get the boat from Beofort NC to Myrtle Beach. So I want to put an outboard swing
Bracket on and motor. Does anyone know what make and model bracket works well with the slanted stern. Will a 20" shaft motor work or do I need a 25" shaft. 
Thank you,
Bryan


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## tempest (Feb 12, 2007)

there's a member here who might be willing to sell you an outboard and a custom bracket. If not he can certainly share his research as he's BTDT.. Chris?


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## Capt.aaron (Dec 14, 2011)

Chrisncate has the ideal removeable out board bracket on his Alberg. But, I deliver many a borken boat, it's my niche. When I need to manuver in tight area's, I hip tow, easier than installig a bracket and get's me under way immediatly and I can use any outboard, rather than look for a long shaft. I recently hip towed a 30 something Cal 8 miles in to Marathon with a 3hp nissan. No wind of course or I'd a sailed her in.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

champlain94 said:


> I am looking at an Alberg 30 that has a bad Volvo md-7. I will need to get the boat from Beofort NC to Myrtle Beach. So I want to put an outboard swing
> Bracket on and motor. Does anyone know what make and model bracket works well with the slanted stern. Will a 20" shaft motor work or do I need a 25" shaft.
> Thank you,
> Bryan


Hi Champlain94, congrats on maybe getting an A-30 

Regarding a bracket, you will need a 25" shaft. I used a Garelick 71033 modified to accommodate a 2hp (yes, 2 hp) Honda four stroke. The modifications were removal of two of the heavy internal springs, and modifying the pad to be 6 to 8" lower as well as accommodate the smaller footprint of the motor clamps.

The spring removal was to make the "push down" of the bracket accommodate a smaller, lighter motor (it calls for a minimum of 7.5 hp), and even with the 25" shaft - you MUST modify the pad on the bracket to be 6 to 8" lower or you won't sit low enough in the water.

I also made a "bracket bracket", meaning I made a base plate that remains permanently attached to the boat, enabling the actual (fugly) bracket to be removed when not in use. Also put two pieces of very heavy black rubber strips to minimize vibration and shock, as well as account for transom curvature when mounting the solid stainless steel base plate (not an issue unless you make a "bracket bracket" like I did, as the Garelick motor bracket isn't a solid piece all the way across).

Pic:

With motor bracket in place


Without (note the base plate - see the two "channels" that run vertically? The bracket slides in and down into those channels)




Motor lives on pushpit rail when not in use, bracket stows in lazzerette.


You'd prolly want a larger motor for your needs - I'd recommend a 6hp and the patience to run with "the flow" where currents might be fast on your route. I can make Annapolis to Oxford in 8.5 hours at half throttle on my 2hp, encountering up to 10 knots on the nose as well as shipping/large boat wakes.

Hope I helped you!


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

Chrisncate, 
Thank you very much for your time and help I thought i could use my 20" shaft tiller mercury motor off of my fishing boat but i guess not. Its also a 25hp so propbably to heavy anyway I am now going to look for a 6 to 9.9, 25" tiller motor. Do you recomend mounted the bracket offset. I would like to put a Moniter or cape fear windvane on the boat also. Down the road of course and if I buy it This boat is a 1967 with all bronze through hulls with masonite deck and aluminum mast for $3,000 I am leaving tomarrow morning to go look at it. Owner said head gasket blew coming in against tide. That it always ran perfect before and had full rpm motor is also a 1967 he thinks. Bottom needs cleaning/scraping and mainsheet needs repair other then that its in good shape Also has dingy and spinniker for small added cost. What do you think? He said deck and all chainplates are fine????


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

You're welcome, I'm happy to help 

I do recommend off setting the mount if you intend on a self steering mechanism, however bear in mind that I pull my motor/motor bracket up and off when sailing and mount it on the rail pad, as on a heavy port side heel it'd submerge the motor head or at the very least drag horribly.. 

My 2hp weighs 27 pounds dripping wet and full of gas, so it's real easy. You might need a crane arm with some block and tackle if you intend to do the same with a heavy motor (unless you have the beef to huck that thing up manually that is).

Regarding the rest, for 3k it sounds like you have a winner. The right deck, good through hulls, a motor that can be rebuilt. Post some pics so I can see her, but even if you don't the deal sounds pretty gravy. As far as the chainplates, they are so easy to make yourself I wouldn't even sweat it at all. I used flat bar silicon bronze 2" x 1/4" by 12' (I wanted extra to use on other stuff) which is easy to cut with a jigsaw and a metal blade (keep the metal wet with motor oil where you are cutting and drilling and it'll go easy). Make the very slight bends in the fore and aft cp's by bending them to match the originals in a vice. It's really easy to do, and don't forget the aft CP behind the lazzertte hatch...

While they are out and being replaced, wrap those forward gussets/knees where the cp's attach, overlapping at least 7" past the knee in both directions with 4 or 5 layers of 8oz cloth, each saturated in a thick but brushable mixture of West epoxy and 407 filler. Fair and paint, bed with butyl, and sleep easy knowing those knees and plates will hold up forever 

Feel free to pm me or post pics here, I'm happy to check her out and offer my thoughts. Best of luck!

C


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

I found the bracket you recommended online for $249.00. I am gonna shop around though. How far off the centerline of the stern to the outside edge of the bracket should I mount it. I am gonna mount the bracket directly to the boat. That is if I buy it. I take it I won't be able to motor sail with an outboard if I'm healed. I also found a couple newer 25" tiller motors. One 2004 Honda 9.9 asking $1000 and a 2007 mercury 9.9 with 3 hours on it asking $1500 OBO on both and both 4 strokes. Should I put rubber behind the bracket. Will it vibrate and wear the fiberglass? How long and what diameter SS bolts should I get? What kind of backing plate on the inside. I assume I need one. Maybe a one piece SS. In exciting. I can't wait. I hope everything goes as planned. Even if I like the boat tomarrow I can't buy it. I have to go get a loan Tuesday or Wed. Should I tell the bank/credit union it's for a boat? Or maybe take a home equity loan. My house is payed for. I don't want to take a personal loan because of the high interest rates. If I tell them it's for a boat will they make me get it inspected and insure it? I know this should be done anyway but I'm just not going to do this on a $3000 boat that's 30'. I have been a carpenter and electrician all my life. I can go over the boat. Besides it a Masonite cores Alberg sold with a non running motor. I will look over the running rigging, chain plates etc. He told me there's not one blister on the boat. And I believe him. He has pulled it three times sense he has owned it in three years. He bought the boat in the Keys four years ago. I will try to post some pics he sent me. They are of the boat in Fl when he bought it


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

Can you load pics here Via an IPhone


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## Bilgewater (Jul 17, 2008)

champlain94 said:


> Can you load pics here Via an IPhone


No you can't...
But you can download the free "Sailnet" App and the free "Photobucket" App. You take the photos with the Photobucket App which automatically get posted online to your Photobucket account. Then you simply select the icon at the bottom right of the photobucket app and copy the "IMG" link and paste that into a post you create with the Sailnet App.


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

Ok I will do that. Thank you


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)




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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)




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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

I click the link to the pictures on my IPhone and there huge. I hope there alright


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## Bilgewater (Jul 17, 2008)

champlain94 said:


> I click the link to the pictures on my IPhone and there huge. I hope there alright


They're the right size...just right.
Looks like it might come with windvane steering by the looks of that bracket...that would be good.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

champlain94 said:


> I found the bracket you recommended online for $249.00. I am gonna shop around though.


I would too.



> How far off the centerline of the stern to the outside edge of the bracket should I mount it. I am gonna mount the bracket directly to the boat. That is if I buy it.


I'd mount it basically centered on the port or starboard side, as low as you can get it and still be able to use a G-10 backing plate (Garalite).



> I take it I won't be able to motor sail with an outboard if I'm healed.


Correct.



> I also found a couple newer 25" tiller motors. One 2004 Honda 9.9 asking $1000 and a 2007 mercury 9.9 with 3 hours on it asking $1500 OBO on both and both 4 strokes.


Can't help you there, motors are something you'll have to evaluate in person. Maybe a Sailnetter in your area can help you out with that part? Anyone?



> Should I put rubber behind the bracket. Will it vibrate and wear the fiberglass?


You won't need hard rubber, forget all that business. Install it and bed it/seat it in grey butyl.



> How long and what diameter SS bolts should I get? What kind of backing plate on the inside. I assume I need one. Maybe a one piece SS.


It depends on the bracket you settle on. Figure out which one you're gonna get, then post here and I'll be able to help out.



> In exciting. I can't wait. I hope everything goes as planned.






> Even if I like the boat tomarrow I can't buy it. I have to go get a loan Tuesday or Wed. Should I tell the bank/credit union it's for a boat? Or maybe take a home equity loan. My house is payed for. I don't want to take a personal loan because of the high interest rates.


Dunno man, that kind of stuff is all on you! 3k isn't much money in the boating realm, expect that to be one of the cheaper parts of your boating experience. Hell, my windvane alone cost about as much as the A30 you're looking at... Hopefully you can pay off 3k real quick (negating the interest thing), or just buy the thing outright. Boats aren't cheap, even when free - know that before getting in my man..



> If I tell them it's for a boat will they make me get it inspected and insure it? I know this should be done anyway but I'm just not going to do this on a $3000 boat that's 30'.


See my post above



> I have been a carpenter and electrician all my life. I can go over the boat. Besides it a Masonite cores Alberg sold with a non running motor. I will look over the running rigging, chain plates etc. He told me there's not one blister on the boat. And I believe him. He has pulled it three times sense he has owned it in three years. He bought the boat in the Keys four years ago. I will try to post some pics he sent me. They are of the boat in Fl when he bought it


I checked out the pics, she's in need of some real TLC and I don't know your level of commitment/ability so it's hard to tell you. For me? I'd own that thing tomorrow and have her bristol in a year. No fancy pants business this time, just a solid refit with zero frills. All labor, no fru fru...

Go for it man! 3k isn't anything at all compared to what it'll cost over the long term. Think of the 3k as your entry fee.


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## Capt.aaron (Dec 14, 2011)

Ah, the old roller reefing boom, mine has that, does'nt work any more. Great little boat man. I would trade out that 1/4 inch anchor chain with something bigger and get R/v grade grey butyl, that marine stuff is the same, just more expensive.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

Yea, the boom is OEM - my ... ahem, _last_ boat (god, it physically hurts to type that - that's gonna take some getting used to) had that as well.

Is it some kind of weird universe thing going here? What are the chances this thread would come along the very day I sold my A-30?

Wtf


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

champlain94 said:


>


Cripes...


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## Capt.aaron (Dec 14, 2011)

heavy in the bow.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

Capt.aaron said:


> Ah, the old roller reefing boom, mine has that, does'nt work any more. Great little boat man. I would trade out that 1/4 inch anchor chain with something bigger and* get R/v grade grey butyl, that marine stuff is the same, just more expensive*.


Lol, oh noes you dinit!..:laugher

Snap..


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

Lookin at those pics, I gotta say - she looks like a deal and a half. Damn..

Wonder what's going on under that weird teak deck portion at the pulpit. No biggy, but still...?


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

That teak deck will come
Off and I will seal any holes. It would probably be nice all shined up but I don't want
The up keep


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

I will take a lot of new pics tomarrow. Those pics are from when he bought it. He also said the prop is fouled and
The hull needs a scraping. So I guess if I buy it I will be getting
Wet and
Scraping away


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## Capt.aaron (Dec 14, 2011)

Good luck my man, welcome to the wicked nice old boat club. Wear a freak'n wet suit, trust me, not for the cold but for the critters that live in the forest on your bottom.


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

Someone has a cape horn steering vane
For sale locally for $1000 OBO. Is this a good price? Is this a good model for the Alberg. They state in the add only that it just came off of there 32' sailboat. I like to get
One someday but not a priority right now


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## Capt.aaron (Dec 14, 2011)

champlain94 said:


> Someone has a cape horn steering vane
> For sale locally for $1000 OBO. Is this a good price? Is this a good model for the Alberg. They state in the add only that it just came off of there 32' sailboat. I like to get
> One someday but not a priority right now


Yes and yes. Google it, the guy who designed it circum naved with it. buy it and sell it to me for $1150.00.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

One minor point to consider - I rejected the (awesome) Cape Horn vane as I didn't like the way the mechanics took up the valuable Lazzerette space. Also on my negative list for the Cape Horn was it's lack of simple removability for on the hard work (they measure from whatever hangs furthest off the aft end of your boat when deciding your real LOA, and charge you based on overall LOA). 

It's heresy against doctrine to not want a Cape Horn on an A 30, but it's food for thought.

Fwiw.


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

The cape horn steering vane
Is listed on Myrtle Beach SC and
Wilmington NC craigs list if anyone is interested


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## Capt.aaron (Dec 14, 2011)

I remember now the reason I want one is they can custom fit for my custom out board rudder that I made. There is no question the bueaty on Heron is the one for you, plus, your a way's away from needing one, concentrate on getting together the dosh to buy the boat. don't let this baby slip away from you dude.


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

Ok I went and looked at it today. Needs a little wood work. And The md-7 doesn't run. He will give me the boat, spinniker, storm sail, jib abd 9' inflatable dingy for $3400 Here are some pics. I would have to by a bracket and 24" shaft motor. That's another $800-$1100. Also the roller reeding no longer works. How hard is it to change to slab reeding. The main sail has either came apart at seam in a couple place or ripped. He said I could have a sail maker run a strip over separation and sew it back?































































































































The lazzerette



















Looks like a patch or fix on side of mast base


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

Ok, bad news - that boat is unsafe for travel and it is not worth $3400. That boat is debt that you are assuming from the start, and it has no actual value in it's current shape. 

It may have slight value in parting it out, although not very much and certainly not something I could recommend you get into.

She's rough and in need of more than TLC, she needs an entire refit from stem to stern. She needs to be hauled and gutted, and none of the through hulls are any good. You'd wind up being able to use the winches, mast, cleats and some fittings, and the hull - everything else would need to be replaced. 

Sorry for the bad news, I was hoping for you that it was the deal it appeared to be.


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## Capt.aaron (Dec 14, 2011)

Bummer. Don't let it get you down though, There are boats that are seaworthy now for less money out there. Save up so you can wheel and deal , a lot of people are trying to get out from under their boats and If you wave a couple of grand in their face they will generally take it. My buddy has a structurally sound Trip Columbia 26 for a grand down here in the Key's.


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

Yah it was a little rougher then I thought when I saw it. He did replace all the through hulls with bronze ones and
New shut offs. The ball type. Except the two in the Lazzerette. The wood toe rails and cockpit locker covers/doors and aft wood combing all need work. And I knew the motor was bad. But structurally it looks sound. The woodwork inside is in good shape also. The cockpit ice box needs work/new lining also. But I will take your word and walk. I drove 7 hours today to go look at it. That sucks. But maybe it's for the best


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

It's a bummer but don't let it affect you, there are tons of boats out there. The only way that boat works is if you get it for free and get it on the hard somehow, then do a total refit. 

Keep looking and keep posting about potentials here in this thread. Your boat will find you, no worries!


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

Thank you


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## champlain94 (Jan 30, 2012)

What size dimensions did you use on the G10 backing plate. LxWxThickness? Would it be alright or any cheaper to use SS. and if so how thick? I am looking at another Alberg in Wilmington NC. Either way I will need a kicker. Garelick 71091
makes a kicker bracket that has 15" of travel. But its aluminum, is that a problem? Using stainless bolts with aluminum isn't good right? The only thing I can't figure out is if it's adjustable for the slanted transom. I don't want to have to make another bracket or have one made to compensate.


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

I bought bar stock G-10, 2"x1/4" (same as my bronze bar stock). I believe we ordered the G-10 from McMaster Carr (google that, I may have spelled it wrong). They had a bunch of sizes, find what works for your application best.

Regarding the SS, by the time you have it cut and electro polished, you'd prolly be at more money than had you made you own bronze CP's. Also worth noting is the lack of crevice corrosion issues on bronze with a "through the deck" chainplate like on the A-30 (keep in mind that it'd prolly never be an issue though, as it'd take years for crevice corrosion to happen on new SS cp's. Still though - I like bronze, zero problems forever).

You can use the aluminum bracket with SS bolts, just make sure to slather the bolts up with anhydrous lanolin or something else that creates a barrier between the dissimilar metals (and maintain it over time). It isn't ideal though, so keep that in mind as well. 

I'll answer your PM as well, but I hope this helps here at least..


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## chrisncate (Jan 29, 2010)

champlain94 said:


> What size dimensions did you use on the G10 backing plate. LxWxThickness? Would it be alright or any cheaper to use SS. and if so how thick? I am looking at another 30 in Wilmington NC. Either way I will need a kicker. Garelick 71091
> makes a kicker bracket that has 15" of travel. Do you think that's enough travel so that I don't have to lower the mounting plate. But its also aluminum, is that a problem? Using stainless bolts with aluminum isn't good right? The only thing I can't figure out is if it's adjustable for the slanted transom. I don't want to have to make another bracket or have one made to compensate.
> 
> Did you put bronze through hulls in your boat? Did you use a backing plate on the inside. If so. Wood or fiberglass. Also did you use the type of seacock that has a flange and is through bolted with three bolts. Is this kind neccesarry.


Regarding the bracket height, this is something you're for sure going to want to "field test" - hold whatever bracket on the transom and get a real world feel for whether it'll be long enough - I have no way to know where your waterline actually is.

My two through hulls were bronze ball valve type, new and through bolted as they should be. Yes on the backing plates, I made mine from by taking a solid piece of mahogany and gluing (laminating) another thinner piece of mahogany on top (crossing the grains for strength - ok, and 'cause it looks cool). Then I coated them in epoxy before installing. Picture:




Bed with 4200 (never ever use 5200 - ever, on anything). Note the bronze through bolts and two bronze nuts on each bolt..


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