# Stick (mast) wiring



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

We recently purchased a 34' Hunter. The wires that come out of the mast at the bottom are short and have regular crimps on them not marine crimps.

We want to change the wiring so that it has ample length. Also there are 2 coax cables that go up the mast that are not used. One is probably for the vhf radio which has been cabbled using a new coax by the previous owner that goes up the port shroud cables. Hmmm.

The question is can I pull the exsisting wires out of the mast, with new wires atatched to the old ones?

I dont Want to start pulling wires really hard to find out they are just snapping inside the mast, which would a loose loose cituation.

Thanks in advance

Prariedog
http://livesailcam.net


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I think I'd securely attach an 1/8" or 3/16" diameter (slippery) nylon messenger line to the old cables first, and pull gently so the old wire doesn't part/break. Then lay out the new wires parralel to the mast in a straight line so that when you pull the messenger, someone else can feed the new wires in without a lot of twisting or kinks. Also, you may want to add an additional wire (or 2) just for future use. You never know what you may want to add later. Now's the time to plan ahead.......

Enjoy


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Rick's suggestion is pretty good... but I would also recommend you leave a messenger line in the mast for future use.


----------



## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

using gravity to pull down rather then up is what we do when running wires, piping and stuff in our biz. the weight of the wire will help it go down rather then stress your messenger line pulling up. Of course if the mast is down it's surely easier!


----------



## HankOnthewater (Jan 26, 2007)

*Additional question re mast wiring*

I was about to post a question when I saw this thread.
I agree with the three previous posts.

What is the best way to secure wiring in an alloy mast? Some of the things to avoid:
* chafing and clanging of wiring inside the alu mast
* relieving any tension on the wires/cables
* upgradability (as per three previous posts)
* minimise ingress of moisture (is elimination of moisture possible?)

In the past I run a conduit or even two. But what is best way to secure such a conduit?

Hank
take care


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

The simplest way to secure the wiring in a mast and to prevent chafe, noise, is to install a wiring conduit, usually PVC pipe. Stainless steel pop rivets are a good, fast, and simple way to attach the conduit to the mast.


----------



## rugila (Jul 5, 2007)

sailingdog said:


> The simplest way to secure the wiring in a mast and to prevent chafe, noise, is to install a wiring conduit, usually PVC pipe. Stainless steel pop rivets are a good, fast, and simple way to attach the conduit to the mast.


I don't quite follow this one.
If the conduit is inside the mast, how do you use the stainless steel pop rivets to attach it? (from outside the mast??)


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Basically, you drill two holes, and use a piece of coat hanger or stiff wire bent into a hook shape to pull the conduit up against the side of the mast through one of the holes. Then you drill into the PVC through the second and install the pop rivet. Do this about every five or six feet and you'll have a nice safe conduit that runs up the mast to run cabling through. You can even drill into the conduit (before running any wiring of course) to make exits for things like spreader and steaming lights.


----------



## rugila (Jul 5, 2007)

Probably I should try this out on a bit of drainage pipe before doing it on my mast.

However, any other's experiences are valuable.

Regarding the two holes, is it better to drill these side-by-side and plug up the one not used to secure the conduit with a rivet or sealant? Or to drill one above the other, say 3 inches apart which should enable using both to secure the conduit.

The latter seems to me to be the tidier option, and presumably the pairs of securing points could be spaced further apart then the single ones.


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Never a bad idea to practice on something cheap and easily replaced... 

BTW, coat the rivets with Lanocote or TefGel to prevent corrosion between them and the aluminum mast.


----------



## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Here's something I haven't tried but expect could work. You'll need three or more people.

Lay the mast flat on sawhorses, with room at each end, and the aft side of the mast facing down.
Lay the conduit at the end of the mast, and thread a heavy cable or line throught it, and then up through the mast.

Now, as #1 (standing at the masthead) and #2 (standing at the conduit) LIFT the conduit in the air and start to feed it up inside the mast, holding it as close to the foreward (upper) side of the mast as they can, #3 takes a can of urethane foam adhesive and sprays a bead on the underside of the conduit. Keep going and DO NOT STOP until the conduit is all the way inside the mast, then let it down agaist the bottom (aft side) of the mast, and let it sit and cure until the foam has fully expanded and hardened.

From my experience that damned foam goo will stick there forever, especially since you have used a relatively large amount in comparison to what it has to hold. If there's any excess, no problem, internal lines in the mast will quickly slice through it without any harm.

I suppose you could also lay the conduit in the mast, and then put a very long straw (cheap thin PVC or poly tubing) on the foam can, and let it inject alongside the conduit while you walked the tube down, then repeated on the other side of the conduit.

Either way--it sure seams like you should be able to glue the conduit in, without making lots of holes in the mast.


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

You really don't need a lot of pop rivets, since you only have to rivet it every 5-6' or so.


----------



## rugila (Jul 5, 2007)

A further question.

I'll be putting mast wiring, VHF coax and 12 lighting wires (for Hella LED anchor light) up a conduit.

If these all go in the same conduit (1/2 inch diameter), is there any possibility of the lighting wire interfering with VHF reception/transmission?

It's not obvious to me why there should be any interference, but maybe there's a case for keeping VHF coax and other wiring somewhat separated. 

Probably one way to find out is to experiment before I put the wires into the mast, but this would take me further down the track than I want to be in the event there is a problem.

So, just hoping for some advice ...


----------



## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

12 lighting wires? What have Hella invented that needs 12 wires?!

In theory, low-power DC power wires next to a well-shielded (good quality coax) antenna line should not create any problem. If the LED lighting is using any kind of fancy power control scheme, that could create RFI in the lines, and that could bleed into the VHF, so a conservative installation might keep them apart. Typically though, this should not be a problem. You might want to bundle the wires all together around the coax with some masking tape and power it up, on the ground, to actually make sure before you even try inserting them into the conduit. "Trust but verify."


----------



## Classic30 (Aug 29, 2007)

I think he means 12 volt wires.. 

If you are not going to pull in a conduit and are worried about interference, you could always run two lots of *coax* up the mast - one for the VHF and one for the lights: core +ve and braid -ve.

Being "armoured" by the nylon sheath and braided outer, coax cable is much stiffer and a lot more rugged than ordinary tinned-wire and works just as well (if not better) on 12 volts than tinned duplex. Just be careful not to hook the lights up to the radio.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

sailingdog said:


> The simplest way to secure the wiring in a mast and to prevent chafe, noise, is to install a wiring conduit, usually PVC pipe. Stainless steel pop rivets are a good, fast, and simple way to attach the conduit to the mast.


SD is correct in that a PVC conduit is probably the best and simplest solution. The only thing I would disagree with is the use of stainless rivets. For securing light weight thin wall PVC to mast I would only use 3/16' Aluminum rivets. you will have a lot less corrosion problems and if installed every 36" will be more than strong enough for the job. Still not a bad idea to coat them with lanacote or loc-tite anyway. You will also do yourself a favor if you have already run your messengers and drilled the holes for the Steaming, deck light etc. Mark the conduit so that the holes line up with the holes in the mast and then just reach in with a little wire hook to grab the messengers. Have all the holes drilled in the mast before you drill through the PVC. With a little care when drilling the plastic you won't hit the messengers. Even if you do it's no big deal.


----------



## canoeman256 (Aug 30, 2006)

*You learn something every day in this place*

I'm probably showing my ignorance here, but I swear I've never thought of using coax for lighting wire!! Stiffer than the other stuff, insulated, harder to break . . . You guys are amazing! My next project on my boat is to install the vhf/coax/antenna. I'd planned to check the mast wiring at that time, but I may just go ahead and replace it.

Thanks


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

canoeman256 said:


> I'm probably showing my ignorance here, but I swear I've never thought of using coax for lighting wire!! Stiffer than the other stuff, insulated, harder to break . . . You guys are amazing! My next project on my boat is to install the vhf/coax/antenna. I'd planned to check the mast wiring at that time, but I may just go ahead and replace it.
> 
> Thanks


If you are going to do something like use coax cable for 12 volt wiring, please note it in the LOG BOOK, (current being discussed in another thread), and remember to tell the poor sap who you, or the next owner choose to work on it in the future.


----------



## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Canoeman...we mean coax as in two distinct wires each with their own insulation inside an outer cover...not COAX antenna wire...just to be sure. 
If you have MULTIPLE connections at the top of the mast you can also get Triplex marine wire and use two wires to two different lights positive and join their negatives to a common ground wire. Jamestown even sells a five wire cable that you can hook 4 mast top lights to.








You want to be using stranded and tinned marine wire...not household stuff.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

camaraderie said:


> Canoeman...we mean coax as in two distinct wires each with their own insulation inside an outer cover...not COAX antenna wire...just to be sure.
> If you have MULTIPLE connections at the top of the mast you can also get Triplex marine wire and use two wires to two different lights positive and join their negatives to a common ground wire. Jamestown even sells a five wire cable that you can hook 4 mast top lights to.
> 
> 
> ...


Actually, I think Hartley18 meant using antenna wire for 12volt.


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*Mast wires*

My boat is a shannon 38 (1983) a lot of the wires in the mast were showing insulation cracking. In addition all the connections were at the base of the mast using male and female spade connectors. I was able to use the old wires to pull new ones (carefully) although the insulation was cracked, the wire is strong. I made the new wires long enough to route to a terminal block in a adjacent cabinet. Much better than the spade connections by the base of the mast.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

pbanderson said:


> My boat is a shannon 38 (1983) a lot of the wires in the mast were showing insulation cracking. In addition all the connections were at the base of the mast using male and female spade connectors. I was able to use the old wires to pull new ones (carefully) although the insulation was cracked, the wire is strong. I made the new wires long enough to route to a terminal block in a adjacent cabinet. Much better than the spade connections by the base of the mast.


Anytime you pull the mast and replace wire, it's a good idea to leave enough wire to run all the way to the panel. At least make sure you can get out of the bilge. You can always cut the wire when you have to pull the stick out the next time.


----------



## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Cam-
"we mean coax as in two distinct wires each with their own insulation inside an outer cover" No way in hell that's coax. That's DUPLEX wire. Duplex, triplex, quadplex, etc., as the number of wires in hacket go up. But coax is short for "co-axial" and unless the conductors share one common axis--it ain't coax. One wire, with one shield braid surrounding it, shares one common axis = coax.


----------



## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

OK...HS...got it...main thing is not to use real coax for electrical wiring!


----------



## canoeman256 (Aug 30, 2006)

*chagrin*

Man, you gotta hate it when your ignorance hangs out like that. I really thought you meant "coax", not duplex. Oh, well, that's what I hang out here for. Ignorance is a curable condition. I thank y'all for clearing that up. Could've been ugly


----------



## beej67 (Apr 2, 2008)

HankOnthewater said:


> I was about to post a question when I saw this thread.
> I agree with the three previous posts.
> 
> What is the best way to secure wiring in an alloy mast? Some of the things to avoid:
> ...


I used Funduit.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/41949-funduit-large-pics.html

Worked great.


----------



## robfinora (Apr 25, 2001)

You know the proper way to do this is with the mast down and off the boat. Is it down? If so - you should not have a problem then running a messenger line up with one of the old wires. Sounds like you should run the VHF cable inside the mast as well. 

If you decide to take down the mast and you find there is not a conduit running inside the mast- a simple way to secure the wiring to avoid the clanging around you will get if they are not secured or inside a conduit is as follows:

- Buy a bag of 12" plastic ties at Home Depot (at least 100)
- Run a messenger line up the mast
- Rewire everything as it should run up the mast and bundle everything together (i.e. VHF cable, data line for masthead, wiring for lights, etc.). You may need a separate bundle if you have spreader lights or a steaming light mounted at mid-mast.
- Lay the whole arrangement alongside the mast on the ground. Every 12" - secure 4 plastic ties around the bundle of cable with the long 12" excess tail of the tie fanning out...stagger them around the cable so they make kind of a starfish formation. This will provide pressure on the inside for the mast to securely hold them in place and keep the noise down while allowing your halyards to still run freely.
- Pull the whole arrangement through and wire accordingly.

Very simple to do and avoids drilling holes in the mast.

I would not recommend trying to pull wire through with the stick still up on the boat.....bad idea and you will end up breaking something.

Rob


----------



## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

So you take a ferret, tie a line to it's tail, and dangle something shiny at the other end of the mast...[vbg]


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

robfinora said:


> You know the proper way to do this is with the mast down and off the boat. Is it down? If so - you should not have a problem then running a messenger line up with one of the old wires. Sounds like you should run the VHF cable inside the mast as well.
> 
> If you decide to take down the mast and you find there is not a conduit running inside the mast- a simple way to secure the wiring to avoid the clanging around you will get if they are not secured or inside a conduit is as follows:
> 
> ...


The main problem with this approach is that by tying all the wires into a bundle you won't be able to replace one without dropping the stick again. 
IMO the "proper" method is to attach a conduit to the inside of the mast. A few 3/16" aluminum rivets will not compromise the integrity of the spar unless it it in pretty bad shape to begin with.


----------



## Classic30 (Aug 29, 2007)

knothead said:


> The main problem with this approach is that by tying all the wires into a bundle you won't be able to replace one without dropping the stick again.
> IMO the "proper" method is to attach a conduit to the inside of the mast. A few 3/16" aluminum rivets will not compromise the integrity of the spar unless it it in pretty bad shape to begin with.


The other problem with this approach is that you only get to do it once!.. but the wire ties do tend to keep your halyards in place. 

Yes, the proper method *is* to attach a conduit to the inside the mast, but few people, myself (currently in the middle of replacing masthead light wiring) included, can be bothered going to the extra effort *unless* (a) you're planning on an ocean voyage, (b) you can't stand heights or (c) have such a long stick that you really only ever want to do it once.


----------



## merttan (Oct 14, 2007)

Hey Rugila, if you can take some pictures of the process, I can use the information as well. I'd like to contribute too but all I've got is what Don Casey wrote in his books... Let me know if you want me to send you the pages related...


----------



## Wayne25 (Jul 26, 2006)

Good information! But I have a question about the wiring. How are you making the wire connections for the spreader lights and the steaming light and possible foredeck light? Assuming your running a ground wire, that's 4 ground wires from the lights that need to be attached to the main ground wire. How are you making these connections? The spreader hot wire would also have multiple connection points to the main hot spreader light wire.

Also, how are you supporting the weight of the wire for stress relief, or isn't that a problem?


----------



## beej67 (Apr 2, 2008)

If you guys use the Funduit idea (link previous page) you get all the advantages of conduit, but don't need to fool with attaching the conduit to the interior of the mast, nor with the cable ties, nor with supporting the weight of the wire, and can run separate conduits to the spreaders and the masthead. Plus, it's sound absorbent for banging halyards, and cheaper, and provides buoyancy during a roll.


----------



## krezoski (Mar 15, 2001)

This is a great discussion as I am about to re-wire my mast. I have a 1981 Catalina 27 and it appears that there is an internal stainless cable that runs inside the mast from the masthead down to the bottom. A turnbuckle fastened to the inside of the mast keeps the cable tight and all of the wiring is wire-tied to the cable. To replace the wiring it looks like I need to release the turnbuckle at the bottom, unbolt the mast head at the top, and carefully slide everything up and out. Have others seen this? The question I have is what kind of wire to use for the new wiring. It appears that some kind of two conductor stranded wire was used. The insulation is now broken down so I suspect it was not a marine grade wire.


----------



## robfinora (Apr 25, 2001)

Knothead and Hartly - I agree a conduit is the correct way to go and would make the addition of adding wires fairly simple. I don't plan on adding anything as I have my data line, VHF and lighting all in place - and this was just so easy. 

So little time -- so many projects!


----------



## cfreeman (Feb 1, 2001)

A lot of alu mast extrusions have a channel on the inside of the mast fore and aft. Square bits of PVC can be glued to the PVC conduit and slid up these extrusions like an interior mast track. That way only one rivet is required to secure the conduit, and it can be done without a "puller" hole. My Isomat spar is this way and it is very nice. I'd highly recommend having the mast down when pulling wires; you don't have to deal with the turn at the bottom which really complicates the pull.


----------



## Classic30 (Aug 29, 2007)

krezoski said:


> This is a great discussion as I am about to re-wire my mast. I have a 1981 Catalina 27 and it appears that there is an internal stainless cable that runs inside the mast from the masthead down to the bottom. A turnbuckle fastened to the inside of the mast keeps the cable tight and all of the wiring is wire-tied to the cable. To replace the wiring it looks like I need to release the turnbuckle at the bottom, unbolt the mast head at the top, and carefully slide everything up and out. Have others seen this? The question I have is what kind of wire to use for the new wiring. It appears that some kind of two conductor stranded wire was used. The insulation is now broken down so I suspect it was not a marine grade wire.


Yep.. that's a pretty standard way of supporting the cables if you don't want to (or can't) use a conduit. Cables should be strapped to the wire a regular intervals - at least every 3' or so.

The wire up my mast wasn't marine grade either. Just measure off the length you need and get some proper marine-grade (tinned) wire from your local chandler. Make sure you tell them it's for mast lights.

The other thing to get whilst you're there is a packet of heat-shrink in-line crimps. Any cable connections to your lights are going to need to be robust and air-tight to last in an environment you can't easily get to.


----------



## thekeip (Aug 8, 2007)

From the look of it, I'd judge that most of you are doing your mast rewiring for the first (hopefully last) time. I do this two or three times a month. I'm here to tell you that unless you can do a perfect riveted conduit installation, that is, one that doesn't come apart in a year or so, try a different method....and I don't mean trying to glue the conduit in place. No glue that I know of sticks to the dirty, dusty, corroded inside surface of the mast. Foam tubes, regardless of the cutesy colors are a singular disaster; maybe not now, but two years down the road you're likely to have a pile of strange looking dust at the bottom...this is especially true if you have internal halyards...and you'll have a devil of a time removing all the remaining pieces you've so diligently taped in place.
The best way that I've found is the cable-tie method as described earlier. It works fairy well...trust me.
Howard Keiper
Sea Quest
Berkeley


----------



## beej67 (Apr 2, 2008)

Fwiw, we're going on 5 years since we did the 'cutesy foam tube' method, and have no problems, because they were wide enough to occupy most of the space inside the mast and therefore don't move or swing. (see pics in the previously linked thread) No dust, no degradation, currently. I imagine we would have had major problems if we'd used regular pvc pipe insulation though.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

thekeip said:


> From the look of it, I'd judge that most of you are doing your mast rewiring for the first (hopefully last) time. I do this two or three times a month. I'm here to tell you that unless you can do a perfect riveted conduit installation, that is, one that doesn't come apart in a year or so, try a different method....and I don't mean trying to glue the conduit in place. No glue that I know of sticks to the dirty, dusty, corroded inside surface of the mast. Foam tubes, regardless of the cutesy colors are a singular disaster; maybe not now, but two years down the road you're likely to have a pile of strange looking dust at the bottom...this is especially true if you have internal halyards...and you'll have a devil of a time removing all the remaining pieces you've so diligently taped in place.
> The best way that I've found is the cable-tie method as described earlier. It works fairy well...trust me.
> Howard Keiper
> Sea Quest
> Berkeley


I am guessing that you must work for a mast manufacturer or are a rigger if you are doing this job two or three times a month. Personally, I don't know anyone building new masts using the above method. If I did I would not recommend them to my customers just for that reason. If you are a rigger, then in my opinion you are doing your customers a disservice.
If you tie everything together it is nearly impossible to run or replace a wire with the mast standing.
I have never seen a light weight conduit that was attached with aluminum rivets every 36" come loose under normal usage.


----------



## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Knothead-
"No glue that I know of sticks to the dirty, dusty, corroded inside surface of the mast." 
Curious to know if you have tried urethane foam? Or plain urethane glue., i.e. "Gorilla Glue" ? That stuff seems to cut through and bond to almost anything, and it bonds best to a freshly wet surface, so you can hose the surface down and then just let the glue grab onto it--still damp.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

hellosailor said:


> Knothead-
> "No glue that I know of sticks to the dirty, dusty, corroded inside surface of the mast."
> Curious to know if you have tried urethane foam? Or plain urethane glue., i.e. "Gorilla Glue" ? That stuff seems to cut through and bond to almost anything, and it bonds best to a freshly wet surface, so you can hose the surface down and then just let the glue grab onto it--still damp.


I have never tried to glue anything to the inside of a mast, conduit or otherwise. It just doesn't seem like a good idea. 
Again, I recommend using lightweight 1-1/4" PVC pipe, (the kind usually used for sprinkler systems), aluminum (no dissimilar metals) rivets every 36".


----------



## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

I think I'll need to add a second conduit up my mast to the radar I'm about to install.
If I use PVC, I figure I'll have to join 2 10' or maybe 3 10' pieces. If I use a standard external collar, then the collar would stand out proud from the rest of the conduit. That would seem to make fastening with either glue or rivets difficult. Is there some other joint for PVC I'm missing?


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

You could use an internal collar to join the sections of PVC. Just cut a section of PVC pipe about four inches long, and cut about 1/4" out of it... so that it will just fit inside the uncut PVC pipe...apply cement and then insert.


----------



## Classic30 (Aug 29, 2007)

sailingdog said:


> You could use an internal collar to join the sections of PVC. Just cut a section of PVC pipe about four inches long, and cut about 1/4" out of it... so that it will just fit inside the uncut PVC pipe...apply cement and then insert.


Just in case that's as clear as mud - I'm guessing the Dog means slit your 4" sleeve *lengthwise* to form a "C" shape, compress it and slide it in place.

If you need all the internal conduit space you can get (ie. it's rather full) you can also glue the 2 ends together with cement and wrap them with Gaffa (cloth) tape. It's less easy and is not as strong, but it can be done..


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Hartley-

Go ahead, ruin all my fun... I wrote those instructions so that anyone with an ounce of commonsense could follow them...but it would weed the idiots out.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

xort said:


> I think I'll need to add a second conduit up my mast to the radar I'm about to install.
> If I use PVC, I figure I'll have to join 2 10' or maybe 3 10' pieces. If I use a standard external collar, then the collar would stand out proud from the rest of the conduit. That would seem to make fastening with either glue or rivets difficult. Is there some other joint for PVC I'm missing?


Just purchase a couple of pieces of the standard irrigation PVC, (thin wall) They come in 20" lengths and you don't need couplers. One end of each piece is expanded. They are made to accept the insertion of the next piece. I have never had a problem riveting these. 
These are considerably lighter than schedule 40 PVC and are plenty strong enough.


----------



## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

knot
How did you fasten the irrigation pvc to the mast?
I would imagine pop rivets would protrude into the conduit and provide a chafe point for the wiring.
Will sched 40 pvc provide enough thickness for the pop rivets to not protrude inside?


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

xort said:


> knot
> How did you fasten the irrigation pvc to the mast?
> I would imagine pop rivets would protrude into the conduit and provide a chafe point for the wiring.


Unless you use a really large diameter conduit and don't put many wires into it, those wires will not move around much. And aluminum rivets pull down pretty far and aren't sharp. 
For most jobs I use 1-1/4" pvc. Aluminum rivet every 36".
I learned this method working in a sparshop.
Never had a problem that I know about.



xort said:


> Will sched 40 pvc provide enough thickness for the pop rivets to not protrude inside?


If the rivet doesn't protrude, I wouldn't feel real good about it. But having said that, I suppose that if you can find a rivet with a real short grip length, then theoretically they will not protrude into the pipe. You would have to be awful careful about having the pipe tight against the inside of the spar as you commence pulling the rivet.


----------



## artbyjody (Jan 4, 2008)

Silly question, but doesn't the mast on the Endeavor already have a slot internally for running a radar cable etc down? I would think it being a newer production boat that it would have such already. Sometimes the manufacturer's manual (if supplied with the boat) will outline the mast and install areas for electronics.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

artbyjody said:


> Silly question, but doesn't the mast on the Endeavor already have a slot internally for running a radar cable etc down? I would think it being a newer production boat that it would have such already. Sometimes the manufacturer's manual (if supplied with the boat) will outline the mast and install areas for electronics.


What is the make of the Spar?


----------

