# Rookie Catalina 28 Racer



## rcibul (Jul 23, 2006)

Racing fascinates me... so I decided to get involved in the Wed nite races at my club and learn by experience. I have a 1996 Catalina 28 (STD rig) with no mods from the stock setup. Wing keel. full batten main. 135 genoa. No spinnaker. My PHRF is 201. Things were pretty rough the first couple of races, but I got alot of friendly advice from far more experienced racers and I was climbing the learning curve. Now a rookie with a half dozen starts under my belt I am have a problem. Racing my boat seems like playing tennis with a baseball bat. I am now making decent starts, I understand the rules, my tactics are basic but reasonable, my telltales are happy, and I just can't get out of my own way! I cannot point worth a darn. Everybody else seems to have at least 15 degree to the wind on me.. which makes for a long course! I am pretty much out of the race as soon as I cross the start line. My question is, for my boat, what can I do to point higher? How close to the wind should a boat like mine be able to perform? Should I use the motor? I am willing to invest time and some money, but I really don't have any idea where to start... any suggestions would be appreciated!


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## ereuter (Aug 31, 2006)

One of the really great things about racing is that you get to see these kinds of things that you'd never notice when you're sailing around on your own.

I don't know your boat, so I can't answer fully, but I would expect that you'd be able to get within 50 degrees (tack through 100) of the wind in a good breeze. 

The most basic thing to check is your headstay tension. If it's not tight enough, that can really affect how high you point. I think your boat is a masthead rig, so the headstay tension is actually adjusted with the backstay.

That leads to the question of how much mast rake you have. Do you have excessive weather helm? If so, your mast may have too much rake, which would also affect your pointing.

Remember, though, that different boats perform in different ways. Boats designed for racing will often point higher than cruisers. You might kill them on a reach though, which is why they always fight for windward/leeward courses!

Eric


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## rcibul (Jul 23, 2006)

*Rig Tuning*

Thanks for the advice! One the things I plan to do is to find somebody who knows rig tuning to check out my boat and see if all those parameters ( mast rake, stay & shroud tensions, etc.) are correct. Again I am not trying to make a racing boat out of a cruiser, my goal is just to get the best out of my boat and have some fun in the club races. Problem is locating that knowledgable person who is willing to help! Next option would be books/references and those tend to be pretty general, (... "once the shrouds are adjusted to the proper tension" ). What I really need is a spec book for a C28, but I have not been able to locate that as yet. Anybody know where I get tech info on a Catalina 28?


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## PierreMundo (Nov 29, 2007)

Well, a tall rig and a fin keel would have been a better choice for the '28. But if you are still sailing with the original sails then it's worth to look at them. It can mean a big difference. And look for a book about sails and trimming for racing. Look at "www . catalina28 . net" for more advise.


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## philsboat (Oct 16, 2006)

A folding prop is a must,especially in light wind.
Phil.


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## NOLAsailing (Sep 10, 2006)

If you've been trying to pinch up in an effort to point as high as some other boats, you may be finding out that that is slow. The Catalina 28 isn't exactly a weatherly boat - so you need to focus on what's fast. There's a relationship between how high you go and how fast you go; finding the best combination is the key.

While rig tune is important on any boat, it's probably not going to make a profound difference on a C28. Until you find someone that definitively knows - just make sure the mast is in column and that shrouds are about equally tensioned (see if you can borrow a Loos gauge from a racing buddy). Don't necessarily worry about the tension numbers, just try to get the shrouds about equally tensioned with the mast in column. After that, you can adjust by counting the number of turns you take on or off your turnbuckles. You're going for middle of the road here. Upwind in moderate breeze, your leeward shrouds should have noticeably less tension but should not be flapping around.

You'll find other things make big differences. How are your sails? If you really want to race, you may want to get at least a #1 and a main that you use only for regattas. You can use your cruising set for the beer can racing. It can make a phenomenal difference. Use a good local loft and get the sailmaker out to show you how to trim the new sails.

Also, how's the bottom? It should be very clean -certainly free of any hard growth. If you have an ablative bottom paint, don't scrub it every week, but keep it as clean as possible. If it's time for a new bottom job, go ahead and get one; that's good maintenance even if you're not racing.

A folding prop is nice. However, if you have a fixed two blade, then have someone hop in the water and position the blades vertically. Mark the shaft clearly at that location. Then, when racing, position that shaft at the proper location and lock the shaft by putting the transmission in gear while the motor is off. This will reduce drag.

If you have a three blade prop, then good luck.   



rcibul/Bob said:


> My question is, for my boat, what can I do to point higher? How close to the wind should a boat like mine be able to perform? *Should I use the motor?* I am willing to invest time and some money, but I really don't have any idea where to start... any suggestions would be appreciated!


Use the motor???


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## rcibul (Jul 23, 2006)

*Kidding about the motor..*

..just kidding about using the motor, just desperation talking!

Thanks for the advice, the mast is in column, but I am going make sure the shroud tensions are equal. What about rake, or is that in the incidental category for my boat? I have a split backstay, but I could buy one of those roller gizmos that tension the backstay. Worthwhile?

My bottom is good ( alblative paint, smooth ) although here in New Jersey marine growth appears on anything in the water in about 10 minutes! Excellent suggestion about the prop position, I will trick my brother into making the dive to check the vertical position (I'll just tell him I dropped a beer off the stern..)

Sails may be the best place to look for improvement. The sail are original equipment (10 years old) and I have been told that the headsail ( roller furling) is a bit small for racing ( 135 ). Larger and new might be a good idea. How do you determine if you sails are tired?

Thanks again for taking the time offer advice, it is much appreciated!


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

DO you have adjustable genoa carrs? They can make a BIG difference in how well you can point in different conditions too. Also how far inward they are makes a difference too. If you have side shrouds that go out to the outside of your boat, your pointing ability will be less than my boat where my shrouds hit the deck at the side of the cabin, almost a full foot more inbound than if the shrouds are on the outside of the hull. 

Yes, older sails do not work as well as newer sails. I figured that out really well this summer. Older blown out sails are like drag racing a mid 60's mustang with a 300K mile motor that is spewing blue oil smoke vs the same rig with a spanking brand new motor in it! No other difference!

Also, going to a 155 vs the 135, at lest here in PHRF-NW, you will have 6 secs taken off you time, ie you would go to a 195 from the 201 do to a larger sail. May or may not be worth it! Roller furling also does not always allow good pointing either. but not somethng that can not be over come.

I would like to point out, rig tune WILL make a major difference. If you shrouds are too lose, or not enough tension on the forestay, this sag will not allow you to point as well ether. Been there done that one with my 85 Jeanneau. Also, make sure the mast is straight up and down, not tilted to one side etc. ANY of these things will not allow the boat to do as well as it should. 

Marty


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## rcibul (Jul 23, 2006)

*Best Bets*

Thanks for all the advice, I will put the information to good use! It is beginning to sound like the best thing I can do is tune the rig first, and then consider retiring my 10 year old sails. I think will stay with the 135, it is fine for all my cruising, and I will keep my 6 seconds!


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## Sailormon6 (May 9, 2002)

If others are outpointing you by 15 degrees, which is a lot, it is almost certainly because of poor sail trim, and most likely your genoa is not nearly flat enough when sailing to windward. 

A 10 year old dacron sail is not terribly old, and, a Catalina 28 is primarily a coastal and bay cruiser. Unless it has been sailed really hard, which is unlikely, its sails are not likely to be as bad as you suggest. It would be a shame to spend a lot of money on a new sail, only to find that you still can't point closer than 15 degrees to the rest of the fleet. Learn how to get the most out of the sails that you have before you spend a lot of money on new sails.

Learn from the good racers. Watch the way they trim their sails for different strengths of wind and different points of sail. When they're sailing closehauled, look at how close their sails are trimmed to the ends of the spreaders. Also, look at whether the foot of their genoas are inside or outside their lifelines. If they are trimming their genoas so flat that the foot of the sail is inside their lifelines, then that's probably the way your sail should be trimmed in the same winds. If you try to trim the genoa and it comes up hard against the lifeline stanchions, then you might have to ask a crew member to lift the skirt of the sail up over the lifelines. 

Ask a good racer to sail with you some day, not in a race, but just for a couple of hours. Ask him to show you how to trim your sails for maximum closehauled racing. Look at the spreader and the lifelines, and take note of the sail trim in relation to those devices, so that you can reproduce that sail trim when your racing friend isn't with you.


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## rcibul (Jul 23, 2006)

*Point Taken..*

I agree with your comments, I am new to the racing game and certainly can benefit a great deal from more experiences racers. I am not looking for a quick fix or any kind of magic gear to improve performance. I just wanted to be sure that I was not warping my racing education by fighting a easily corrected problem. I have been sailing for over ten years, and though I am new to racing I am not new to sailing. Like most sailors, I am not shy about learning by observation and I intend to apply the same attitude to racing. I have observed that the better boats in my class when close-hauling in 10-12 knots have their genoas tight as a drum and they look like they are in a track on the deck! In trying to mimick this trim, my roller furling 135 is inside the stanchions, but it cannot be pulled flat and it sets about two feet off the deck! I have also noticed that if I ease it just a tad I get better telltales and a little better performance. I am clear that there is no substitute for experience and I am willing to climb the learning curve, so I appreciate all the comments and will take them with me to the next race!


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

Cheap stuff first before you dump over $2000 for a single sail.

Rig tune. 
I start by sighting up the mast. If it looks straight then tighten the shrouds and lowers. If they go slack in less than 13kts, they get tightened until the slack is gone. Head stay and back, I can't advise, as I have an adjustable back stay and a large fractional rig. 15/16th.

Sail trim
I've found that being new to sailing and racing myself, the more tell tail, the better. 9 tell tails on the head sail, and at least 4 on the leech of the main. Make sure they break (luff) all at the same time. If the uppers are breaking sooner than the lowers, you have too much twist in the sail and you need to move you car leads forward to close the top part of the sail. If the main has the same issue, then sheet it in until the upper tell tail is breaking 50% of the time. Use the traveler to adjust the "angle of attack" to the wind. After you get the mainsheet trimmed, you should ONLY be playing with the traveler unless the conditions change.

Cunningham: do you have one? If not, I would imagine this would help flatten the main considering you don't have a backstay adjuster.

Outhaul: does it get tightened for upwind performance and "blown" for the downwind run?

Halyard tension: does the leading edge of the sail have a 'nice' looking entry? Like an airplane wing?

Good point about the skirt being inside the lifelines, if its not, make it get there. Either sheet in, or considering re-locating the car lead tracks to the cabin top.

In higher winds, you can flatten the sails a lot allowing you to point higher. In the light stuff, bear off a touch (like 5* or less) bag the sails a bit, and concentrate on boat speed and avoiding big waves that'll stop you in your tracks.

Once you get sail trim down, read this about a dozen times. 
RACING BASICS - Beginner's Racing Manual

I'm pretty spoiled, I bought a boat with a great MORC racing record, even though I can't sail it worth a hoot! Have fun no matter what!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*Racing*

Alot of the ideas from everyone and they are all pretty good. I want to comment on the new sails idea. The Catalina 28 is a great cruiser, The wing keel makes it tough to point as well as a fin keel boat, However she should still be competitive since you are Phrf racing.If you dont mind spending the money Call Al at Doyle sails in Michigan and order Tape drive sails. Also if you do order sails go with a 155% headsail which in most racing fleets is the largest headsail you can fly without taking a hit for more time. We are racing a C&C 32 with these sails and are undefeated 
19-0 this year. I am not saying that new sails will cure your problems, However they will help you point alot better.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

Well



I race in the Northport Ny area and it is pretty much a money is no object place ,the older 1970 C$C mark I i crew on runs full 3DL sails and puts the hammer down on a lot of 2008 boats much to there owners  

I own and race a J24 and we keep it as a family boat and just do JAM (jib an main ) it still carrys the 174 PHRF which hurts a bit in JAM 

CATALINA 28	183
CATALINA 28 TM	174
CATALINA 28 WK	192



There is just know way you will be competive against a J type boat on a short windward leeward race course (1 mile legs ) because you will get outpointed and the PHRF# reflects the bigger picture 

For example we have a few longer races up to 34 miles out and back were there is a good chance of long reaches that would allow your boat to sail up to its rating


We also have true cruising divisions that reflect the different nature of the boat types 

tommays


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## Jotun (May 4, 2006)

1. - Be sure you're genoa cars are at the proper location to give the right sheeting angle. 

2. - Most of the guys I race with scrub the bottom every other week, period. It's not much work--really just a brush job to get the gunk off. And it will help your speed big time. I've heard that bottom gunk can shave 2 tenths of your speed. Now, if you consider a three-mile course, that is more than a half-mile penalty right off the start.


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## tenuki (Feb 11, 2007)

If everyone is outpointing you by that much you probably need to tune your rig. After that if it's still happening learn proper sail trim (ie basic sailing skills). Racing is a pyramid of diminishing effect, with things like starts and tactics only imporant once you have the basics like rig tune, clean bottoms, and basic boat handling mastered.


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## GaryHLucas (Mar 24, 2008)

And then there is how well YOU sail! I am not a racer, but I try to sail well. Some years ago I owned a Hunter 27 and had some friends on board. The guy who was a Hoby Cat sailor wanted to steer, and I let him. His wife noted that the boat slowed half a knot when he took the tiller. He said it was just wind variation and such. We traded the tiller back and forth over the next hour, and I consistently produced a half knot better performance going upwind. I told him it was just that I had more experince with my boat, and that the tables would probably be turned on his boat.

Sailing with someone who sails well would be really valuable.


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