# Problem with Jabsco manual toilet



## n0w0rries (May 17, 2009)

The previous owner said the toilet was replaced recently. It seemed to work ok for a while, but I did notice occasionally there would be a scum line in the toilet, even though it was left empty.

I noticed it got hard to flush. I can pump it full of water easily, but when I switch it to dry to pump it out, it doesn't do anything. I felt a lot of resistance on the down stroke, so I took the boat over and pumped it out, just to be safe. I tried again and was able to push through the resistance, and then it would pump freely (but still do nothing)... then at random it would get hard to pump again.

Any advice? Unless it's a cheap/easy repair, I'm thinking of replacing it after reading on here.


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## kwaltersmi (Aug 14, 2006)

This is directly from the trouble shooting section of my Jabsco manual toilet owner's manual:

Bowl does not empty & difficult to push handle down:
1) Open outlet seacock
2) Fully shut Flush Control Lever
3) Check joker valve, discharge hose or outlet seacock for blockage

Bowl does not empty and difficult to pull handle up:
1) Remove pump and check for blockage

There's 4 or 5 other trouble shooting tips listed. Feel free to ask for more!

You can also check Jabsco's Marine Toilet Support Wizard found here: http://www.jabsco.com/support/wizards/question-wizard-waste1-style-pagepath-imagepath-itempage-id-.htm


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## n0w0rries (May 17, 2009)

Thanks! I didn't even to think to check their website. Was able to download and print out the manual. Hope it's something easy!


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

Some people just replace these units rather then buy the service kit which costs about $50. This unit costs about $150 brand new.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|806|315133|823306&id=1055779
I am not sure if that is the same model as yours. There is a larger bowl version which is about $200.


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## n0w0rries (May 17, 2009)

Well went down and took the pump apart. Wasn't able to check the bottom/joker valves because there's nasty water in the toilet and I haven't been able to clean it out. Any problem with trying a plunger? Would rather not have to use a cup to empty the head. 

Working on the head really SUCKS.


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## GaryHLucas (Mar 24, 2008)

I work on waste treatment plants, so a boat head is a day in the park. When I need to clean out something before I work on it I use a shop vac. However, I DON'T use it directly! I get a 5 gallon buckt and lid. Cut a hole in the lid a little smaller than the vacuum hose and poke the hose into the hole. Get another piece of hose and poke a second hole in the lid for that one too. Turn on the vac and use the second hose to suck out the head, and even the head hoses, depositing everything in the 5 gallon bucket. No mess at all!

Gary H. Lucas


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

If you're going to re-build the head... I would highly recommend you look at buying a Raritan PHII/PHC refit kit that basically replaces the head with a PHII or PHC system but re-uses your existing bowl, which saves you a considerable amount of money off the price of a Raritan PHII/PHC head. The Raritan PHII/PHC head is generally considered one of the best moderately priced marine heads, unlike the Jabsco units, which are generally considered the equivalent of what goes into them in normal usage. 

SBO has the Raritan kits available.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

*Don't use a plunger! Pulling back on the check valves is bad and it will not help.*



n0w0rries said:


> Well went down and took the pump apart. Wasn't able to check the bottom/joker valves because there's nasty water in the toilet and I haven't been able to clean it out. Any problem with trying a plunger? Would rather not have to use a cup to empty the head.
> 
> Working on the head really SUCKS.


Plungers mostly such, and marine heads are designed to resist that. Take the plunger OFF the boat.

It sounds like a blockage problem, most likely in one of the hoses and possibly in the tank vent. Unless the hoses are cleared, a new head won't help. It doesn't sound like a re-build, not if there is resistance.

The scum line problem is fairly normal, if the toilet is not flushed with enough fresh water and the joker valve seeps.

Get some gloves and keep them on the boat. It's just poop. Think babies and it's no big deal.


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## donradclife (May 19, 2007)

Its been a while since I had the problem, but if you are able to pump wet easily and the dry is intermitantly hard, my guess is you need to look at (2) on the Jabsco list-the Flush Control Lever is not doing its job. Exercise the lever between wet and dry positions and see if you can get it to go further over to the dry side. You can also try holding it over to the dry position while you pump.

If pushing the lever further over doesn't help, the problem is internal to the pump. The good news is that the part you need to fix is at the clean top end of the pump. The bad news is that my experience with getting the top of the pump back together without leaks is not good.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

*Good points. It may also be mis-assymbled*



donradclife said:


> Its been a while since I had the problem, but if you are able to pump wet easily and the dry is intermitantly hard, my guess is you need to look at (2) on the Jabsco list-the Flush Control Lever is not doing its job. Exercise the lever between wet and dry positions and see if you can get it to go further over to the dry side. You can also try holding it over to the dry position while you pump.
> 
> If pushing the lever further over doesn't help, the problem is internal to the pump. The good news is that the part you need to fix is at the clean top end of the pump. The bad news is that my experience with getting the top of the pump back together without leaks is not good.


Mine was, when I got it, and the problem was similar. Take a long look at the exploded view.

I've never had leak issues on the top and have taken it apart several times. Minor differences, I guess.


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## Zanshin (Aug 27, 2006)

It seems that the little spring on the flapper valve at the top unit is only mild steel and rusts away very quickly, I've now replaced at total of 3 on the 3 units I've opened; in two cases there were just some traces of rust and the springs themselves had long since been flushed out. Once I replaced those the pumpout worked correctly again.


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## LazylighningII (Nov 8, 2006)

Two things come to mind that have happen to me. The first is pee and salt water form a calcium in the discharge line, so you can replace the head and not the lines and still have the same problem. I only flush with fresh water and and rinse with vinager on a regular bases. The second problem I have found is lube, I put a little vegetable oil in regularly and that solves the problem for me. Good Luck


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## GJGolden (Feb 26, 2013)

The prior posts helped me pinpoint the cause of my trouble as being the flush control lever, but I found the solution to be much simpler than anything mentioned so far. The problem is that the lever does not sit tightly on its shaft, so there is too much play and the valve it operates does not engage fully because of this. I found this to be the case on both the older pump and the new in the last month or so pump in the other head.

All I needed to do to cure the problem for both was to cut some thin cardboard and bend it so it fit inside the lever reducing it's internal dimensions just enough so that it fit snugly on its shaft with no play.


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

Sounds to me as though you have a build up in the exhaust lines as mentioned above. Either clean the lines out or replace them. I'd certainly check this before spending any money on pump parts.
I have seen 2" lines completely clogged by the ceramic stuff, caused by urine and salt water.


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## joethecobbler (Apr 10, 2007)

that "stuff " that builds up in the hoses like ceramic is largely potassium nitrate or "salt Peter " if you were to collect it,dry it and mildly refine it,you could use it to make fireworks, gunpowder or explosives! 
reuse,reduce, recycle?


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

^^ Potassium nitrate is very water soluble, like salt.

Try calcium urate, carbonate, and phosphate.


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## mariocomin (Feb 11, 2017)

GJGolden said:


> The prior posts helped me pinpoint the cause of my trouble as being the flush control lever, but I found the solution to be much simpler than anything mentioned so far. The problem is that the lever does not sit tightly on its shaft, so there is too much play and the valve it operates does not engage fully because of this. I found this to be the case on both the older pump and the new in the last month or so pump in the other head.
> 
> All I needed to do to cure the problem for both was to cut some thin cardboard and bend it so it fit inside the lever reducing it's internal dimensions just enough so that it fit snugly on its shaft with no play.


This post and prior ones helped me to fix a similar problem. The cause: the Flush Control Lever didn't reach to raise the flapper and the vacuum did not make possible to pump dry easily.
The solution: A small bit of epoxy putty in the flapper valve where the lever should touch.
Thanks to everybody!!


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## troy2000 (Apr 7, 2013)

GaryHLucas said:


> I work on waste treatment plants, so a boat head is a day in the park. When I need to clean out something before I work on it I use a shop vac. However, I DON'T use it directly! I get a 5 gallon buckt and lid. Cut a hole in the lid a little smaller than the vacuum hose and poke the hose into the hole. Get another piece of hose and poke a second hole in the lid for that one too. Turn on the vac and use the second hose to suck out the head, and even the head hoses, depositing everything in the 5 gallon bucket. No mess at all!
> 
> Gary H. Lucas


Great tip, thanks for posting it.


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## mariocomin (Feb 11, 2017)

mariocomin said:


> This post and prior ones helped me to fix a similar problem. The cause: the Flush Control Lever didn't reach to raise the flapper and the vacuum did not make possible to pump dry easily.
> The solution: A small bit of epoxy putty in the flapper valve where the lever should touch.
> Thanks to everybody!!


Now I atach an image of the fix flipper valve


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