# Single handed anchoring questions



## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

Anyone have tips for single handed anchoring? The idea of going from cockpit to bow and back seems inconvenient or worse during heavy weather. Also difficult to do under sail.

Does anyone lower the anchor from the cockpit (either under sail or power), cleat it on a stern cleat, set it, uncleat it, then let out scope and cleat it on the bow?

Or cleat it on the bow but lead the rode outside the lifelines and shrouds back prior to anchoring, then lower it from the cockpit whilst on a reach or run and wait for it to set and swing you around?


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

Why the bow to cockpit runaround?
Just sail up to where you wish to drop the anchor, loose the main halyard and jib sheet, go forward and drop the anchor and cleat it off when sufficient scope is in the water. Especially in heavier weather, the boat will drop back and set the anchor; really not much for you to do. While she is dropping back you can be dropping the jib and furling the main.
Every single day we see people anchor quite nicely, then unanchor themselves by backing down on their gear. Then up it comes and they do it again, and again. Sometimes it takes 4 tries, when they had done the deed the first time, just fine. I am not talking about bareboaters here; these are cruisers who just don't seem to have mastered anchoring, even though I'm sure they have been at this for some time.


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## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

Thanks capta, but what do you mean by "backing down on their gear"?


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

matthewwhill said:


> Thanks capta, but what do you mean by "backing down on their gear"?


Using the engine in reverse to set the anchor. 
Obviously if you are Med style mooring, you need to back down on your gear, but otherwise it is usually unnecessary and counter productive.


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

Sailing by ones self to anchor is a bit more that I wpuld recommend 

I motor up... Then with a SLOW walk, I slowly wander towards the bow and nonchalantly lower the anchor the normal way.

I try to imagine the whole anchorage watching and taking off points for any panicked movements, so i do it all in shuch a relaxed manner.

It works.

Now I an anchor in any weather close to anyone else. 



Mark


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## rockDAWG (Sep 6, 2006)

MarkofSeaLife said:


> Now I an anchor in any weather close to anyone else.
> Mark


Hahaha.... what would do when you wondering around looking for anchorage, everyone is standing at the bow and staring at you like they are just ready to ripe you head off.

Many moons ago, I had an instructor who is a big fellow often stood at the bow starring at anyone within a mile away. I was embarrassed. Geeze, can we co-exist. The last time I look, there is no law stating that the first anchored boat owes all surrounding water.


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## ScottUK (Aug 16, 2009)

> The last time I look, there is no law stating that the first anchored boat owes all surrounding water.


No, but they do own the water in their swing radius.


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## capt vimes (Dec 2, 2013)

capta said:


> Using the engine in reverse to set the anchor.
> Obviously if you are Med style mooring, you need to back down on your gear, but otherwise it is usually unnecessary and counter productive.


that's how it is been taught around here and i learned it that way...


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

capta said:


> Using the engine in reverse to set the anchor.
> Obviously if you are Med style mooring, you need to back down on your gear, but otherwise it is usually unnecessary and counter productive.


I don't agree. It does make sense to let the anchor settle a bit and make sure there is enough rode out before backing down, but the engine won't generate anything like the force of even medium winds. Backing down on your anchor is good practice.



MarkofSeaLife said:


> I motor up... Then with a SLOW walk, I slowly wander towards the bow and nonchalantly lower the anchor the normal way.


Exactly. There really shouldn't be any drama.



rockDAWG said:


> The last time I look, there is no law stating that the first anchored boat owes all surrounding water.


True enough. There is a long-standing custom that the first anchored boat establishes the pattern (one anchor or two, amount of scope) and politeness dictates that the first anchored boat defines how close "too close" might be.


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## engineer_sailor (Aug 27, 2011)

I just anchored under sail and singlehanded for the first time this last weekend. Capta's description pretty much described the process. They key was planning the approach and having everything ready to such as the anchor being ready to drop. I sailed off the anchor too. Definitely makes one feel like a salty sailor of old and no engine noise!

Josh


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

rockDAWG said:


> Hahaha.... what would do when you wondering around looking for anchorage, everyone is standing at the bow and staring at you like they are just ready to ripe you head off.
> 
> r.


That happened the other day! They finally went below to sulk when they realised I was going to anchor there anyway. I had a friend on board and she was in the cockpit, and I was dropping amidships to them. As I dropped the bow fell off a bit and swung pointing directly at the other boat. I screamed, sounding panicked, at the top of my voice: "Watch out for the boat in FRONT!!". And didn't they bolt into their cockpit at the speed of startled gazelles? I burst out laughing so hard that they cracked themselves up too. It was very funny 

However standing with arms folded is the MOST ignorant thing a sailor can do! You dont know who is in the boat coming into the anchorage. It could be a new life long friend. It could be last years Americas Cup skipper, it could be your sailing hero of life and you can made yourself look like a total dick-head.

When someone does that to me I purposefully park close to them. Its one of my duties in life to call out dickheads!

What I do when someone comes into the anchorage: i go into the cockpit, wave to them in a friendly manner. And then go down below!
I get out of their sight!
I remain out of their sight for 30 minutes after their anchor has hit bottom. (I might spy through a window  )

Then i will go up and have a look.
Normally, I find, that anyone who has anchored too close realises it after about 20 minutes as the boat has had time to lie correctly, and they have had 10 extra mins to decide to up-pluck, and have. 
No one can be perfect in anchoring and it does take time to work it out if the boat has gone where you intended.
But its also impossible to tell from another boat from where the pick of another boat hits the water where the anchoring boat will end up.

So I would suggest you form a 30 minute rule.

And if they are still there after 30 minutes and too close get off YOUR ass and go over in your dink, (no yelling from the foredeck,) and welcome the people, in a friendly manner, to the anchorage... Tell them where the locals stuff is, etc, be their welcoming party. Don't mention the anchoring. You will find they will bring to up and say something like "do you think we are too close"? And then you can say something like "well the holding here is pretty crappy (even if it isnt)" or "I dunno, what do you think?" Or something like that.... You will find your diplomacy works and you can still make a friend of that person! 

Hope this helps anyone who thinks they might be an arm folder!

BTW: its fine to have your anchor UNDER their boat, thats not fouling their chain. Its under their boat but in clear water. But there are a few people who get peeved at that. But i like masses of chain out so it doesnt make me close to them, it just makes me safer


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## Group9 (Oct 3, 2010)

MarkofSeaLife said:


> Sailing by ones self to anchor is a bit more that I wpuld recommend
> 
> I motor up... Then with a SLOW walk, I slowly wander towards the bow and nonchalantly lower the anchor the normal way.
> 
> ...


I do the same thing, forcing myself to move slow. Mostly for safety.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

MarkofSeaLife said:


> You dont know who is in the boat coming into the anchorage. It could be a new life long friend. It could be last years Americas Cup skipper, it could be your sailing hero of life and you can made yourself look like a total dick-head.


I understand and appreciate your point, but I must say some of the worst anchorers (is that a word?) I have encountered are racers who are ONLY racers.

I encountered a boat full of guys who were celebrating their win of the AYC season cup on charter in the BVI. Took them five attempts to pick up a mooring. I'm glad I didn't see them try to anchor!


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## jameswilson29 (Aug 15, 2009)

I anchor singlehanded with no problem. I use the simple, inexpensive, finesse method: 

1. Drop jib (eliminates lines for fouling and clears foredeck);
2. Activate autopilot while sailing toward anchorage under mainsail/engine;
3. Fetch 200' of three-strand nylon anchoring line from cockpit locker;
4. Walk to foredeck and secure;
5. Fetch light-weight, tried and true, Danforth style anchor with 6' chain;
6. Walk to foredeck and secure;
7. Attach anchor line to chain and anchor;
8. Survey anchorage for best spot available;
9. Head boat toward best spot available;
10. Drop main or put engine in idle before reaching best spot, using momentum to arrive at best spot;
11. Gently lower anchor to bottom and hold;
12. Gradually pay out sufficient scope of anchor line while boat drifts away from anchor; and
13. Secure anchor line on cleat and tie bitter end to mast.

I understand there is another expensive, forceful, complicated method involving new generation anchors, all chain rhodes, radar, spotlights, full power reverse engine, headsets and walkie talkies, hand signals, flares, and all manner of real Captain-envy gear and technology.

I prefer the simple, inexpensive, finesse method. It has held my boat in brief hurricane force winds on occasion with no problems.


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## Mechsmith (Jun 7, 2009)

Or cleat it on the bow but lead the rode outside the lifelines and shrouds back prior to anchoring, then lower it from the cockpit whilst on a reach or run and wait for it to set and swing you around?[/QUOTE]

I use this method but have my anchor on a bracket outside the cockpit arranged so that I just pull a pin and the anchor drops clear of everything. The rode is attached to the boat always, and if I don't need all the scope just take a couple of turns around the winch and let her ride. A combination fairlead-chafeguard puts enough drag on the rode so the anchor lands properly.


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## ScottUK (Aug 16, 2009)

I guess I am with Aupicious on backing down on the anchor. Don't see why not, if you drag going astern then chances are better you will drag in high winds. If you drag a number of times backing down, as Mark of Sealife mentioned, then I would question the holding and move to a different spot. If I anchor under sail I will use the main to back down but that is typically in light winds. If I anticipate higher winds and anchor under sail I will, after the anchor settles, sail back and forth under main to dig in the anchor.


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

First of all PLEASE always back down on your anchor. ESPECIALLY if you anchor upwind from me.

Some types, CQRs, seem to do better if allowed to marinade for 10 minutes and I don't understand why but I have been using them for 11 years of living on the hook and it does seem to help.

I back down at idle for a couple of minutes to straighten things out then slowly increase to 2/3 throttle. 

I have done it under sail a few times as practice and twice because I had to. Come into wind under main alone and drop the hook leave it for 5 minutes then push the boom out to back down a bit. 

There is a technique that I have observed used by a couple of single handed engineless French sailors who anchor with a Danforth type and string. They approach downwind under a scrap of jib and with the anchor rode already cleated off at the bow and led around the outside of everything to the stern. They drop the anchor at the desired spot, chuck the rode over and continue at a slight angle. The rode goes tight setting the anchor and spinning the boat around. Pretty impressive to watch when it works.

Best tip I have for the rest of us. Get an electric anchor windlass that you can operate from the cockpit.


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

i watch here as folks anchor..it is a place notorious for really bad holding, so everyone backs down hard on anchor tackle here..lol and then, first time wind is over 20 kts, they DRAG......YES, you CAN back down too hard and pull up your anchor in the process...
last time i anchored out in this lagoon i had winds back me down... as my bruce caught and acatches easily each time, i was amazedto see tha twhen i pulled anchor to chicken out of anchoring and enter marina(no engine an d 30+kts winds daily) that my 66 pound(30kg) original bruce had only a small amount of bottom mud on the end of one fluke and the back of the anchor had mud..bad set... good thing i chickened out, as no one would be here to assist, and no engine is not anchorable boat..... 
SOOOOOOOOO......lol..i love my bruce..even only poorly set, it held fast in 30 plus kt breezes. this is only anchorage wherein i dont back down until i do not move...as even backing down you will be moving here. is silt over some sand or some hardpan or whatever the river used to be ..... oh yes..and i keep 160 ft chain on bottom..keeps even a poorly set anchor holding well... folks come in here and use 75 ft chain, but without a kellet or some other extra management, that anchor WILL drag. guaranteed. every one with only 5 to one scope here has dragged. i would have dragged had i only left 75 ft on bottom.
depth here is barely enough to cover most of our deep keels and hulls..8-10 ft at mean low tide. 
overkill??? hellyes, but I DO NOT DRAG at anchor.

oh yes, and i raised my anchor hand over hand method, as electric windlasses are only as good as the connexions keeping them juiced up, and the battery state...and the mechanisms inside their constantly freezing up selves. i also have manual windlass fro use when i am tired of heaving and lifting chain. no i use no rope rode unless i am kedging off a bar or shoal....lol


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## FSMike (Jan 15, 2010)

jameswilson29 said:


> I anchor singlehanded with no problem. I use the simple, inexpensive, finesse method:
> 
> 1. Drop jib (eliminates lines for fouling and clears foredeck);
> 2. Activate autopilot while sailing toward anchorage under mainsail/engine;
> ...


James - it's going to be interesting if you are ever presented with an emergency which requires you to anchor RIGHT NOW.


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## FSMike (Jan 15, 2010)

MarkofSeaLife said:


> -----
> 
> BTW: its fine to have your anchor UNDER their boat, thats not fouling their chain. Its under their boat but in clear water. But there are a few people who get peeved at that. But i like masses of chain out so it doesnt make me close to them, it just makes me safer


Mark -
makes it a little awkward if you want to leave before they do lol.


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

sailing onto and offf anchor or mooring requires use of jib. jib is steering sail, main is driving sail. when you remember this, isnt hard at all. is how i was taught on an antique ff rigged sloop without engine. we rowed a leaky old rowboat to the sailboat on 3rd mooring from hus=dson river on catskill creek, and then we sailed offf the mooring as wee raised sails and turned and sailed out the creek into the river. 
i have watched so many try to steer into a mooring or to where they wanna drop anchor, not using jib.. they cannot do it.. duh, keep jib up until yyouhav dropped anchor. backwind jib and set anchor. what is so hard about that. when on bow, just dont trip in your lines and befoul anchor with jib sheeets. isnt hard. if onto mooring, keep jib full until you are secured to mooring, then drop it. remember, when jib is furled or dropped, you will not be able to steer your boat. folks frequently forget this which makes it so much more entertaining.
when dropping anchor. make sure ypu are actually moving in reverse, naturally and by wind p ower, even if your engine works well....many folks dont do this, and have some more interesting stuff to watch....

and when your tranny sticks in forward gear, keep moving in forward, drop anchor, shut off engine. you have one chance to get this one right., then call tow..lol
isnt hard to get this correct, either, as anchor will set while you move forward.... it sets, you will know. if it doesnt, try quickly again, then call tow. or salvage, whichever is appropriate. but by now, your neighbors will have come to rescue you with dinghies, so you should be ok.


i also love to watch the faces of those who disbelieve my reports of chain on bottom and park over me..lol as i raise my anchor, with panga for power, i enjoyed watching the eyes of one set of boaters as we approached their transom..i TOLD em i had 160 ft down, and they guarded well my anchor..lol right under their transom...


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

FSMike said:


> Mark -
> makes it a little awkward if you want to leave before they do lol.


Not at all. Try it.

Mark


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## Cap-Couillon (Jan 2, 2013)

Re: the OP....

Yeah, as a single hander I always (at least when ever possible) rig the anchor to drop from the cockpit rather than the bow. 

Loop the rode back to the "lazy side" winch well before reaching the anchorage. Snub the rode as required while setting the hook, then re-rig to a bow cleat after you are are comfortable with the set. If you are not successful on the first pass, use the winch to hoist the anchor an make another pass. Keeps me, my tiller, my control lines, and the anchor rode all in the same place, with much less of a Chinese fire drill.


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## rockDAWG (Sep 6, 2006)

SVAuspicious said:


> I understand and appreciate your point, but I must say some of the worst anchorers (is that a word?) I have encountered are racers who are ONLY racers.


I recently have met one.....hahahah. He races and dock at the marina. Anchor? What is that.


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## rockDAWG (Sep 6, 2006)

SVAuspicious said:


> True enough. There is a long-standing custom that the first anchored boat establishes the pattern (one anchor or two, amount of scope) and politeness dictates that the first anchored boat defines how close "too close" might be.


In a perfect old world when humans were a few, common courtesy is abundant. Unfortunately, this practice is rare in many congested anchorage area. Standing at the bow with arms folded does not help the situation. Why not just be friendly and welcome your neighbor, and let him/her know when you anchor is and amount of your scope.

Either we can share or when all go into pissing contest and have a bad day.


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## capecodda (Oct 6, 2009)

Rule 1: However you anchor, no voice commands, no fast movements, remember it's not how your anchor, it's how you "look." 


And admit it, there's great entertainment over sundowners watching late arrivals at popular anchorages who don't follow Rule 1.


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## rockDAWG (Sep 6, 2006)

capecodda said:


> remember it's not how your anchor, it's how you "look."


Ding, Ding...............We have a winner.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

rockDAWG said:


> In a perfect old world when humans were a few, common courtesy is abundant. Unfortunately, this practice is rare in many congested anchorage area. Standing at the bow with arms folded does not help the situation. Why not just be friendly and welcome your neighbor, and let him/her know when you anchor is and amount of your scope.


To be fair I have done both the "glower from the cockpit" thing and the "dinghy over and chat them up thing." I must admit my approach depends on my mood and the weather and what else is going on. Frankly the results have been pretty even between the two approaches. I guess I get more karma points for chatting up the neighbors but otherwise it doesn't seem to make much difference.


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## rockDAWG (Sep 6, 2006)

SVAuspicious said:


> To be fair I have done both the "glower from the cockpit" thing and the "dinghy over and chat them up thing." I must admit my approach depends on my mood and the weather and what else is going on. Frankly the results have been pretty even between the two approaches. I guess I get more karma points for chatting up the neighbors but otherwise it doesn't seem to make much difference.


We all are human, protecting our turd is built into our genes. The survival of the species depends on it. Besides it is our manhood in question, lets stand up be proud. ...hahaha. ..... both parties will have a bad day instead of a relaxing day on the boat. 

I have never dinghy over to other boat, too much work. I just use the low power VHF tell them I will move my boat so that he can anchor at my spot. :laugher


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

I'm among those who always anchor singlehanded. There is nothing difficult about it. The most important part of the entire procedure is observation before hand: looking at how the other boats are sitting and where their anchors are, knowing what the current and wind is going to do, and deciding if it would be advisable to anchor in that particular spot at all. I would rather travel a long distance to avoid a crappy anchorage where I have to worry about conflicts with other boats, especially where current is running against wind and making the boats do weird things. Taking time to peruse the whole available area often finds a better, safer spot. It helps to make sure you don't have to diddle around when you finally go up to drop. Free the anchor and chain/line before going in. It only takes seconds to get from bow to cockpit so I don't see much advantage in leading the rode all the way back there. I like to stand on the bow and feel the anchor set by hand. I can also quickly cleat it off and drag it a few feet if need be. 

One thing people seem to be unaware of is that in a tight anchorage you can come very close to the stern of a boat up ahead to drop. It seems people are uncomfortable doing this (especially if being glared at) but it's a way to get the anchor set in a good place. You are essentially then immediately out of the turning circle of that boat and if rode lengths are the same, everyone should swing safely.

About glowering, I am guilty because I've had so many instances of people setting their anchors over mine. This easy task seems to be a total mystery to many.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

rockDAWG said:


> I have never dinghy over to other boat, too much work. I just use the low power VHF tell them I will move my boat so that he can anchor at my spot. :laugher


Interesting idea. Worth a try.


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

SVAuspicious said:


> I guess I get more karma points for chatting up the neighbors but otherwise it doesn't seem to make much difference.


You may be a better cruiser than I am, I sure as hell need every karma point i can get! Two weeks ago while i was in the bar getting sloshed someone's unattended boat dragged down on my boat. Three dinghies came to the rescue with two groups of cruisers jumping on my boat, found the fenders and held the other boat off while the third mob of cruisers jumped on the other boat, started it up and re anchored it.

Moral of the story is: if i was the anchorage a$$hole would they have worked flat out to protect my boat?????

Mark


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## ScottUK (Aug 16, 2009)

> Moral of the story is: if i was the anchorage a$$hole would they have worked flat out to protect my boat?????


Maybe they working flat out to protect the other guy's boat...I'm just sayin'.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

MarkofSeaLife said:


> Moral of the story is: if i was the anchorage a$$hole would they have worked flat out to protect my boat?????


Point taken. When bad things happen it helps to have a reputation as a good neighbor.


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## capt vimes (Dec 2, 2013)

That is the way to anchor... Not:


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

THAT was GOOOOD......

glad the folks over here arent that bad..lol... by the time folks get down here they have at least anchored once or twice...


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

I used to glower, or worry about people anchoring too close, or go over in the dinghy and tell them how they were too close and should move. In the end, I realized that boats with overlapping swinging circles (the ones too close) aren't likely to do serious damage to each other. 

I've even had a boat float towards me with the crew down below asleep. They used the anchoring technique of snubbing the anchor after it hit the bottom and once the tide came up, they were adrift. I rowed over and knocked on the hull before they hit, but honestly, I could have just waited 5 more minutes, put out some fenders and tied them up alongside. They were only drifting at 1/4 of a knot. No damage done. 

What's made me change my mind is a significant road rage type incident at anchor. We were in a mostly windless bay with some current, my anchor windlass was kaput, so I was using my Fortress on rope. A guy in a fishing boat anchored right on top of my other anchor and I informed him about what scope I had out. 7:1 x 20 feet of depth = a lot more than he was expecting. I knew I would swing around and we would contact, though the contact would likely be slow, and we'd have lots of time to see it coming. 

He proceeded to tell me every which way I was doing it all wrong. Apparently I should use 40 feet of chain like he did. (that's 2:1 scope for those that are counting) and on and on he went about how I shouldn't use rope, rope is bad, I don't know what I'm doing etc etc. I didn't like his tone, and the shouting match got ugly. I even offered him the concession though of using sign language to tell him "he was number one"  He did leave in the end BTW. 

Later in the debrief, I realized that telling him he was too close very quickly turned into a pissing match. Next time, my plan is to let him swing so close to my boat that I can hand him a drink. No judgement or shouting required, but when he swings into me, and I have to get a fender out, it is balck and white who is in the wrong. At that point I can say "it happens to the best of us" and he can hopefully be on his way. In the end, it'll be better for his blood pressure and for mine. 

As for those that drag onto you, that has little to do with anchoring close to you as it's more dependent on technique. As much as I'd like to, I'm not about to row out to someone far in the distance upwind and tell them that I think they're doing it wrong unless I see something really egregious. 

Medsailor


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

MedSailor said:


> I realized that telling him he was too close very quickly turned into a pissing match. Next time, my plan is to let him swing so close to my boat that I can hand him a drink. No judgement or shouting required, but when he swings into me, and I have to get a fender out, it is balck and white who is in the wrong.


Maybe not. I had a guy drag down on me once. It's pretty clear when someone else's transom is approaching your bow who is dragging. Still after I dinghied over knocked on his boat he stood in his cockpit shrieking that *I* was dragging into *him*. I used my dinghy to push Auspicious off to one side as he dragged by, still yelling at me.

I've often contemplated adding "can drag to windward" to my resume. *grin*


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

SVAuspicious said:


> Maybe not. I had a guy drag down on me once. It's pretty clear when someone else's transom is approaching your bow who is dragging. Still after I dinghied over knocked on his boat he stood in his cockpit shrieking that *I* was dragging into *him*. I used my dinghy to push Auspicious off to one side as he dragged by, still yelling at me.
> 
> I've often contemplated adding "can drag to windward" to my resume. *grin*


HA! That's funny. I had a similar situation with the boat that was drifting into me at 1/4 knot. When I knocked on the hull the "arm candy" awoke and poked her head up the hatch. I told them they were adrift and she started arguing with me that I wasn't there when they went to sleep and they were there first. 

Again with the people dragging, they can come from any direction and are hard to predict (though sometimes you can spot them  ). The folks that will swing into me will not get the lecture they once did. Instead, I'll just just be waiting with a fender, a drink and a smile and will shove them on their way.

Medsailor


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## TerryBradley (Feb 28, 2006)

rockDAWG said:


> We all are human, protecting our turd is built into our genes. The survival of the species depends on it. Besides it is our manhood in question, lets stand up be proud. ...hahaha. ..... both parties will have a bad day instead of a relaxing day on the boat.
> 
> I have never dinghy over to other boat, too much work. I just use the low power VHF tell them I will move my boat so that he can anchor at my spot. :laugher


If you want my "turd" you can have it. But I will protect my "turf"!:laugher


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## Group9 (Oct 3, 2010)

capt vimes said:


> That is the way to anchor... Not:












I love watching that video. Especially the part that is shown in the link!


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## capt vimes (Dec 2, 2013)

i like turquoise as well...


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

capt vimes said:


> i like turquoise as well...


Turquoise is good, but I prefer tan. 

MedSailor


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## Andrew65 (Dec 21, 2009)

TerryBradley said:


> If you want my "turd" you can have it. But I will protect my "turf"!:laugher


Hahaha... l continued reading just waiting for someone to pick up on that.

I'm gonna have the watch the video again....for the anchoring technique.


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## drsutton (Aug 6, 2013)

This process has worked for me every time.
1. Stow anchor end/near cockpit.
2. Run rode outside all lines through **** on bow.
3. Continue rode back across foredeck to cabin mounted clutch.
4. Open clutch to deploy anchor.
5. Feed rode to appropriete length.
6. Close clutch.
7. Back down with engine or via wind to set.
8. Reverse numbers 4-6 to lift anchor. 
9. Stow anchor when sea/wind is calm.
Never had a problem with anchor hanging loose from the bow for short periods of time.


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## drsutton (Aug 6, 2013)

Number 2 in my previous post should read block.


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## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

Well here's an update. I sail single handed all the time. And I have been practicing anchoring. My awesome method:
1. Store anchor, chain and rode in cockpit locker
2. Approach anchorage slowly by either motor or sail on reach or run
3. Drop anchor from cockpit and secure rode to stern cleat
4. Set anchor
5. When convinced it has set, select desired scope, walk and secure to bow cleat then go back and release stern cleat. Bow then swings to weather.

I like having the anchor, chain, rode, motor, sheets and me all in the same place. If the anchor doesn't set I can pull it back up quickly. Also if I need to anchor quickly its all right there.


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## harmonic (Sep 10, 2013)

I single hand most of the time and find anchoring no problem its all in sussing out a good spot where you wont hit anybody else.I just drive up to where I want to anchor wander up the front press the button for lowering the anchor let out about 5 times the depth of water and then wander back to the cockpit and reverse her in.If anybody drags onto me its at their peril my yacht is steel with a nasty bowsprit.


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

I have a technique, but it's not smooth and it's not efficient and I admit that. I'm trying to figure out something better. Just to set the scene:

1. I don't have or need a windlass. It's a 30 foot boat.
2. I don't have an anchor locker that opens up on deck.
3. I have a "rode locker", forward of the V-berth with a hawsepipe.
4. The tail of the rode is always led through the hawsepipe, and secured on deck, ready for use.
5. The anchor is stored in the rode locker, where it must be carried up on deck.
The Manson simply doesn't fit anywhere convenient on the boat, so it sits in the rode locker.

I have decided that carrying the anchor, to the bow, to connect it to the rode is a recipe for accidentally dropping and losing an expensive anchor overboard.

1. I place a small, plastic sheet on the V-berth, and place the anchor there.
2. I haul the rode to the foredeck hatch, reach down and attach it to the anchor. I leave it in this position until I'm ready to deploy.
3. When the boat is in position, I haul the anchor out through the foredeck hatch and lower it over the bow.

The rest is normal SOP as the rest of you.
Provided that I prepare well in advance, none of this causes any frantic rushing around, but it's more work than it needs to be.

It would seem that an anchor roller where I could store the anchor on the bow, would eliminate most of this hassle. Anyone have any better suggestions?


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## Andrew65 (Dec 21, 2009)

BubbleheadMd said:


> I have a technique, but it's not smooth and it's not efficient and I admit that. I'm trying to figure out something better. Just to set the scene:
> 
> 1. I don't have or need a windlass. It's a 30 foot boat.
> 2. I don't have an anchor locker that opens up on deck.
> ...


A picture of the boat's bow would help. What kind of boat do you own?


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

Pearson 30.

There's really not much to take a photo of. There's a bow pulpit and a white, rubber cowl vent over the hawsepipe, offset to starboard. Single, large cleat in the center.

Otherwise, it's a blank canvas.


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## Andrew65 (Dec 21, 2009)

I'm no rocket scientist, but Mantus makes an anchor mount. Maybe that could be a start. Look it up on their website.


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

Ok, checked out the link. That's a very nice bracket, but it simply won't work on my boat. My aft and fwd pulpits only have a single horizontal rail.

It's a shame. Such a bracket would have negated the need to drill more holes into the deck for an anchor bracket/roller.

Let's see if this link to a photo of my boat works: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4555208011782&l=cc0847a87f


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## Andrew65 (Dec 21, 2009)

I recommended his link because he got me in touch with his norwegian distributor for a Mantus anchor and presents himself like a credible guy. Write an email to him and explain your situation. He might have a thought or two too. On his website somewhere, there is an article about an offset roller to accompany their anchor. That might also be an idea to investigate.

Could you ethnically rig a stylish board on your pulpit to fit the bracket?


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

I don't think I could. You know, if those U-bolts could be rotated 90 degrees, that bracket could be attached to a single, vertical support on the pulpit. Unfortunately, that's not possible on the Mantus bracket.

Meh. I'll figure something out.


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## Andrew65 (Dec 21, 2009)

Good luck.

Nice non-skid on your boat you got there, what kind is it? That's a project for me soon. I'll put the same color on too.


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## TerryBradley (Feb 28, 2006)

In a "no-wind" or very light wind condition; backing down to set the anchor makes a lot of sense IMHO.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

harmonic said:


> wander up the front press the button for lowering the anchor let out about 5 times the depth of water and then wander back to the cockpit and reverse her in.


Remember that anchor scope is determined based on the distance from the bow roller to the bottom, not the depth of water.


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

Andrew65 said:


> Good luck.
> 
> Nice non-skid on your boat you got there, what kind is it? That's a project for me soon. I'll put the same color on too.


It's Pearson-standard issue non-skid. No idea what they used at the factory.


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

SVAuspicious said:


> I don't agree. It does make sense to let the anchor settle a bit and make sure there is enough rode out before backing down, but the engine won't generate anything like the force of even medium winds. Backing down on your anchor is good practice.
> 
> Exactly. There really shouldn't be any drama.
> 
> True enough. There is a long-standing custom that the first anchored boat establishes the pattern (one anchor or two, amount of scope) and politeness dictates that the first anchored boat defines how close "too close" might be.


Backing down on your anchor ful throttle will test it to as much load as any wind you can motor into. 
I have had problems geting out of a narrow anchorage singlehanded ,until I started leading the rode back to the cockpit, and stowing it temporarily in my cockpit ,until I got to open water. Then I put it on the drum.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

Brent Swain said:


> Backing down on your anchor ful throttle will test it to as much load as any wind you can motor into.


Most propellers are substantially less efficient in reverse than forward. The analogy of motoring into wind is specious.


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## IStream (Dec 15, 2013)

SVAuspicious said:


> Most propellers are substantially less efficient in reverse than forward. The analogy of motoring into wind is specious.





Brent Swain said:


> Backing down on your anchor ful throttle will test it to as much load as any wind you can motor into *backwards*.


Fixed it for you.


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## flandria (Jul 31, 2012)

Someone says "no voice commands"... I think we're a bit off topic with that since we are talking here about single handed anchoring... or is one supposed to talk to oneself - if not too loud? Chuckle. (I am typing this "without my arms folded" so I am not trying to be obnoxious...)

Anyway...

I get all the advice. Can someone elaborate a bit more on weighing anchor when it is time to go? When the anchorage gets a bit crowded and the wind gets a bit feisty, how does one go about raising anchor when you get to those precious seconds when the anchor is free, the boat wakes up, and the wind sees an opportunity to create panic as you start to drift down on your properly anchored neighbours who happen to be exploring the shore... How to do this with the prerequisite calm demeanor, the preferred leisurely walk back from bow to cockpit and all the other accoutrements of excellent seamanship?

It is quite possible I will do my first solo anchoring next year, and have a choice of good anchorages to start with, but I do not control other boats joining me, so I welcome advice.

When anchoring I use an anchor buoy. I and everyone else knows where exactly my anchor is. Without it you simply guess where it might be, and, boy, you'd be more wrong than right. That gets more important since I anchor mostly with chain (shallow enough before it runs out in many cases) while others around me swing a lot more freely on a little chain only. Many a time I have been parked right above my anchor or a mere few feet away from it as the wind shifts. It also allows me to anticipate how the boat will start moving as I shorten scope for departure and what other boats to keep an eye out for. (The anchor buoy is attached with a simple, light line... I have not (yet) needed to lift he anchor out that way.)

Over to you all...


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

SVAuspicious said:


> Most propellers are substantially less efficient in reverse than forward. The analogy of motoring into wind is specious.


Pretty close. The difference is like nitpicking flys**t out of pepper.


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

TerryBradley said:


> In a "no-wind" or very light wind condition; backing down to set the anchor makes a lot of sense IMHO.


I will ALWAYS back down on my anchor. about 1/3 throttle to begin with to make sure I have the chain straightened out and the anchor digging in then gradually increase to 3/4 throttle and hold for several seconds while I eyeball the other boats or something on shore to make sure I have a grip on the bottom.

That way when I get a midnight thunderstorm and squall I can be reasonably confident that it is not me that is dragging.

Mind you I still get up and check on what is going on.

I think that not backing down on your anchor is poor seamanship and possibly/probably a negligent act. After all Chapman says you should.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

Brent Swain said:


> SVAuspicious said:
> 
> 
> > Most propellers are substantially less efficient in reverse than forward. The analogy of motoring into wind is specious.
> ...


Not what we measured in a water channel.


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## engineer_sailor (Aug 27, 2011)

I break it down into to categories, motoring and under sail:

Motoring:

1. Before arriving at anchorage, engage autopilot, walk forward, cleat rode to bow cleat, and untie line securing anchor to spirit

2. Locate anchoring spot. Turn into wind, engage autopilot to hold boat into wind with remaining momentum, calmly walk forward to the bow.

3. Uncleat rode and lower anchor to surface of the water. Once forward momentum is near zero, begin lowering anchor into water.

4. Pay out tide to achieve 3:1 scope. Wait until tension is felt, then pay out rode to proper scope. Cleat rode.

5. Back down at 2000 RPM for 60 seconds watching for drag. If no drag, relax, otherwise repeat. 

Under sail is the same exercise except backing down involves back winding the main and then lowering it.

Our Danforth used to drag a bit before it would set. The new Manson sets instantly and reduces anchoring anxiety significantly.

Josh


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## engineer_sailor (Aug 27, 2011)

With respect to back winding and setting the anchor I am considering modifying my technique. 

Back winding our main in 12-15 knots was a chore and barely doable. We ended up tacking back and forth until we got the main down.

I might start leaving the headsail unfurled and using it to backwind. Definitely won't tack or make forward progress and should achieve a decent set.

Thoughts?

Josh


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## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

*Re: Single handed anchoring question*



flandria said:


> Someone says "no voice commands"... I think we're a bit off topic with that since we are talking here about single handed anchoring... or is one supposed to talk to oneself - if not too loud? Chuckle. (I am typing this "without my arms folded" so I am not trying to be obnoxious...)
> 
> Anyway...
> 
> ...


Great question! Again, this is why I do everything from cockpit. First i cleat the proximal rode at stern and release rode from bow cleat. Boat swings stern to wind and rode tensions again. Start motor and/or get ready to raise mainsail without delay. Pull up anchor from cockpit and stow. Then either motor or sail away.


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## flandria (Jul 31, 2012)

> Can someone elaborate a bit more on weighing anchor when it is time to go?
> 
> Great question! Again, this is why I do everything from cockpit. First i cleat the proximal rode at stern and release rode from bow cleat. Boat swings stern to wind and rode tensions again. Start motor and/or get ready to raise mainsail without delay. Pull up anchor from cockpit and stow. Then either motor or sail away.


Sorry, Mathewwill, I need more clarification.

I sail a Catalina MkII36 and have 100' of chain (plus seldom used 150' of rode). I am not sure I can really handle all that from the stern/cockpit: weight, damage to topsides, breaking the anchor loose... Is your technique applicable to boats of this ilk? Many thanks.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

Does it really take more than 5-6 seconds to walk the length of a 36' boat? Mine's 34 and so long as the side decks are clear, it is a matter of seconds. It just doesn't seem worth the bother to have a cockpit method. You should have a good feel for how the boat will carry into the wind and simply use that time.

I would rather focus on a solid, practiced routine.


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## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

flandria said:


> Sorry, Mathewwill, I need more clarification.
> 
> I sail a Catalina MkII36 and have 100' of chain (plus seldom used 150' of rode). I am not sure I can really handle all that from the stern/cockpit: weight, damage to topsides, breaking the anchor loose... Is your technique applicable to boats of this ilk? Many thanks.


I see your point.... I have a 16.5 lb Bruce with 15 feet of 3/8 chain with 185 ft of rode. I am fortunate that I can handle the weight and pull it up quickly. My method may be unsuitable for your larger boat and ground tackle.....

I sometimes think I ought to get a larger boat, but I like being able to do stuff like this myself without having to rely on a windlass etc... Heck, the other day I was out when the wind died and just for kicks I got out my kayak paddle and was able to make gradual progress with that. I also like being able to push the boat around by the shrouds while I am docking or casting off.

I took my wife and kids out today however, and it was definitely too cramped in the cockpit. I guess there is no perfect boat and its all about tradeoffs.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

SVAuspicious said:


> True enough. There is a long-standing custom that the first anchored boat establishes the pattern (one anchor or two, amount of scope) and politeness dictates that the first anchored boat defines how close "too close" might be.


I've read this often enough, but I never understood how it could be expected to work in practice:

one vs two. If I have used 2 anchors, the joining of the rodes is below water (to avoid twist). You could not see this.

scope. Could ask. But unless they are are on deck, arms crossed, there is no way to know. You can only assume a value.c

how close. Depends on weather, holding ground, quality of tackle, and the tradition of the harbor; some places folks spread out, some places you either accept tight spacing or move on. Some folks will glare if you are within a mile; if it is a remote place, maybe you should move away, since you are both seeking solitude. Some folks glare in city harbors because they think they own the place, in which case I owe no curtesy (though I avoid confrontations).

Only once have I had contact at night; the other boat came in late and simply thought contact was OK, like rafting. Complelty clueless, but no harm came of it; I'd seen them at the 2am pee break and hung fenders.


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

pdqaltair said:


> one vs two. If I have used 2 anchors, the joining of the rodes is below water (to avoid twist).


Really? You shackle rodes together and use a swivel? I've never done that and don't know anyone that has. Isn't that a pain? I use two independent rodes. If I'm anchored more than a couple of days I get in the dinghy and push the back of the boat around a few times to keep the wraps under control. It isn't hard, it doesn't take long, and it entertains the heck out of the other people in the anchorage. *grin*



pdqaltair said:


> scope. Could ask. But unless they are are on deck, arms crossed, there is no way to know. You can only assume a value.


I ask. If there is no one on deck (and often a slow pass will bring someone on deck) I use my best judgment and catch up with the other folks when I can.



pdqaltair said:


> how close. Depends on weather, holding ground, quality of tackle, and the tradition of the harbor; some places folks spread out, some places you either accept tight spacing or move on. Some folks will glare if you are within a mile; if it is a remote place, maybe you should move away, since you are both seeking solitude. Some folks glare in city harbors because they think they own the place, in which case I owe no curtesy (though I avoid confrontations).


Close is cultural and individual as well as geographic. I agree with you entirely about avoiding confrontations. I've moved even when there first when I thought the distance wasn't safe. I've dinghied over to assure folks that I was paying attention and would move if necessary (never needed - I'm pretty conservative).

I was anchored in Back Creek in Solomons some years ago on Screwpile weekend. A late arrival anchored very close. I told them I thought they were too close and they agreed but expressed concern about finding another spot in the crammed anchorage. They offered (I didn't ask) to maintain an anchor watch all night. I dinghied over later and left them my cell phone number. When I popped up periodically during the night there was clearly someone in the cockpit every time. Interestingly when the wind shifted they swung within a few inches of my bow. Our biggest concern was my snubber clearing their rudder. Their watch, their skipper, and I had a nice (truly) chat for about 20 minutes when we were closest.

There is no substitute for being nice to one another.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

SVAuspicious said:


> Really? You shackle rodes together and use a swivel? I've never done that and don't know anyone that has. Isn't that a pain? I use two independent rodes. If I'm anchored more than a couple of days I get in the dinghy and push the back of the boat around a few times to keep the wraps under control. It isn't hard, it doesn't take long, and it entertains the heck out of the other people in the anchorage. *grin*
> 
> _Much simpler than that. Attach the second rode (fixed length, about 70') to the chain with a soft shackle ~ 3 feet or so below the apex of the bridle. No swivel (chain does that), takes only seconds, no tangles. Works because most Chesapeake anchoring is in a narrow range of depth. I mostly only do this in certain high current areas on the Delmarva coast, but some times in tight anchorages._
> 
> ...


_Exactly. Never had a conflict._


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## newhaul (Feb 19, 2010)

matthewwhill said:


> .. Heck, the other day I was out when the wind died and just for kicks I got out my kayak paddle and was able to make gradual progress with that.


For rowing check this out 
A Pearson Ariel Page


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