# Planning on purchasing a 2012 Beneteau Oceanis 34



## BAXTEP (May 23, 2011)

We went to the sailboat show at Annapolis and I really liked the 34 in person so I'm thinking of going forward and using the 12.5K show discount that Beneteau is offering. As a relatively new boater (I have a 28' Coronado currently) I have a couple questions that might sound beaten up but please hear me out:

1. My wife tells me that air conditioning is a must. Do I need an Air Conditioner (I dock in Chicago, Burnham Harbor)?

2. Forums tell me to get shoal draft keel (4'6" draft) instead of standard (6'1" draft). I fear that loosing upwind performance would be really noticable on this boat, however I'm planning on cruising down the Michigan shore and looking at the map and reading stories I'm thinking safety is probably first.

3. I'm also going to order classic mast with fully battened main sail. I don't trust in-mast furling. However question comes would I be able to sail her single handed? 

4. And the last question is about folding propeller. Beneteau option sheet asks for 2.5K for it, is it really worth that much for a piece of clever designed brass?

Thank you in advance for any insight you might shed on these questions.

Have a wonderful day!


----------



## PalmettoSailor (Mar 7, 2006)

BAXTEP said:


> We went to the sailboat show at Annapolis and I really liked the 34 in person so I'm thinking of going forward and using the 12.5K show discount that Beneteau is offering. As a relatively new boater (I have a 28' Coronado currently) I have a couple questions that might sound beaten up but please hear me out:
> 
> 1. My wife tells me that air conditioning is a must. Do I need an Air Conditioner (I dock in Chicago, Burnham Harbor)?
> 
> ...


We sail on the Chespeake and AC was a must for us, but I wouldn't think it would be required in Chicago. That said, boat AC units are reverse cycle, so it would provide heat while at the dock which might extend your season a while. Whatever the case if the wife says its a must, its a must.

I'd let your sailing area dictate you keel choice. You can safely sail a deep keel boat even here on the Chesapeake, however anything much over 5.5 feet increases your chances of finding the bottom when you head into many of the creeks and bays. Wing keels are very common on cruising boats here so I'd suggest buying what's common where you sail.

To simplify single handing you'll need an autopilot and you may want to consider a Mack Pack type lazyjack/sailbag system and perhaps a low friction system like Strongtrack from Tides Marine.

I agree that folding/feathering props are stupid expensive, but against the cost of a brand new boat it wouldn't add much to your payment and they do improve light air performance signficantly.


----------



## mgmhead (Jan 14, 2007)

midlifesailor got it right... if she says it's a must, IT'S A MUST! Keel, go with what works for your sailing area and regions you may visit... yes, safety first should be your primary consideration. Folding prop, don't have one and don't miss it. Perhaps if I had one I'd feel differently.

When you say Beneteau 34 are you talking about the 343? Have you sailed one? Recommend you try to get a sail on the boat you decide to purchase before you buy.

Just my thoughts, Good Luck...MGM


----------



## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

I'd go for the feathering/folding prop myself, esp when you look at the cost vs the price of the boat... small change at that point.

I think this is the new Oceanus 34, not the 343.. quite different boats. We saw a 34 at Seattle earlier this year.. quite liked it although the keel casting was kinda rough...


----------



## BAXTEP (May 23, 2011)

Thank you for all the replies, these are helpful and assuring that I'm thinking in correct direction!


----------



## PCP (Dec 1, 2004)

Air conditioned on a 34 ft boat has a problem because you don't have enough battery power to run it, except on the marina and as in the Chicago area you will need more heating than cold, I think a heater would be a better solution.

I know that the air conditioner will also work for heating but you can only use that at the marina because while you are at anchor, the consumption of that more the freezer and the lights will be too much.

Try instead a Webasto heater or similar. They work on diesel (low consumption) and you can be used while sailing or at the anchorage.

Webasto Marine Comfort - Air heater, water heater, water station for boats and yachts - for increased comfort on board

If you plan to stay out of the marina for some time, consider having led lights on the interior as well on the navigation lights and on the anchor light.

Regarding the propeller, that is expensive for a folding propeller on a 34ft boat. You can stay with the original one as a spar and fit one of those:

http://www.kiwiprops.co.nz/

Kiwiprop Home of the Kiwi feathering prop

They are very good and less expensive (about half the price):

And congratulations for your new boat

Regards

Paulo


----------



## Peas (Oct 11, 2011)

BAXTEP said:


> We went to the sailboat show at Annapolis and I really liked the 34 in person so I'm thinking of going forward and using the 12.5K show discount that Beneteau is offering. As a relatively new boater (I have a 28' Coronado currently) I have a couple questions that might sound beaten up but please hear me out:
> 
> 1. My wife tells me that air conditioning is a must. Do I need an Air Conditioner (I dock in Chicago, Burnham Harbor)?
> 
> ...


1. AC is a must. We sail on Lake Ontario and we just installed it on our 40.7 We had it on our last boat and did without on this boat for a season and a half. We can get some really hot days on Lake Ontario, and the season is short enough that you want to make the most of it. Also the dehumidifying feature is really nice to keep things fresh and mold down. 
2. My draft is 7'9". So to me a 6' draft is a shoal keel! Sure there are some harbours I cannot get into, so I go to other places. When you touch bottom on this lake, it's just sand anyhow.
3. Get lazy jacks and go with the conventional main. I sail the 40.7 single handed with no furling on the main or jib and will throw up the kite for a challenge single handed all the time. Well, sort of...the wife is on board but sleeping or reading or doing something other than sailing...
4. Definitely get a folding prop. Maybe not the factory beneteau option...but definitely get a folding prop. You'll sail 1/2 a knot faster. Makes a difference on those long passageways...and at those times in light air when its marginal between dropping the sails and running with the iron jenny.

Good luck with the purchase!


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

Does this model ship with a lead or steel keel? Get the lead keel if a choice, if it comes with a steel keel, then the cost of as professional epoxy coat and fairing should be added to the bottom of the order form. It'll be easier to do it properly before the keel gets wet, than a year or two down the road.


----------



## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

A couple of comments from the owner of a similarly sized boat (33 foot Cal).

You definitely can single hand with a conventional main. Mine came with a Dutchman system and a full battened main. I have no trouble single handing the boat.

Cost of the prop depends on the model they will provide. Mine has a Martec Elliptec folder. Works great. A new one for my boat is about $1000, but most others are about double that. You could get the standard prop and put on a Martec later if you are unhappy with the performance. You'd save money and have a spare prop.


----------



## PCP (Dec 1, 2004)

sailingfool said:


> Does this model ship with a lead or steel keel? Get the lead keel if a choice,* if it comes with a steel keel, then the cost of as professional epoxy coat and fairling should be added to the bottom or the order form.* It'll be easier to do it properly before the keel gets wet, than a year or two down the road.


I agree on the lead keel fore a number of reasons that does not include that one because a new boat should always have at least two coats of Epoxy coat, lead keel or not. That is normally proposed by the shipyard on a package with anti fouling. The reason is that is the only way to make the hull completely watertight and prevent future osmosis.

The lead keel however is a very expensive extra and not all the boats have it as an option (it is always an option on the more sportive ones).

Regards

Paulo


----------



## bobperry (Apr 29, 2011)

Living in the PNW I can't comment oln the AC question but I think you would be really compromising the potential performance of the boat with that shoal draft keel. I have a 26' boat and I draw more than 4'6". 

There is no substitute for draft.

Of course I live where shallow water is 25' so maybe I'm not the best gauge for the convenience of the shoal keel but in terms of performance it will be terrible. I don't care what anyone tells you.


----------



## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

Like Bob and Faster, i sail on the sailish sea. AC?!?!?!? please explain......heat on the otherhand, will be an addition down the road other than an electric heater.

Keel depth...... I would ask for a 7'r. then again, shallow to me is when my depth sounder is still reading depths 400 yds off the shore. Marina reads 10-26 depending upon the tide ie a -3.9 vs a 12.x!

folding prop.....you mean you can still buy a solid prop for a sailboat?!?!?! wow, I'll take the .5-1 knot light air improvement of the folding/feathering style prop. Along with my max prop backing has very little kick back which is nice.

I personally would not do a fully batten, I prefer the 2 full/2 lower part. These in mast furling stuff is making sailing pretty easy compared to 20 yrs ago, folks sailed SH without lazy jacks no less! amazing eh! reality, a GOOD auto pilot is probably more important and Jack lines to keep you on board when by yourself is a better $$$$$ spent than in mast furling imho!

My 02 not that 02 is worth much these days!

marty


----------



## night0wl (Mar 20, 2006)

Its so good to see people going through this new boat decision...I did the same in 2009when we bought our Beneteau 343 new. At first I was surprised to see $12k incentive on the B34, but then I realized that this is the 4th year of production for that model and Benetea will likely be phasing it out next year or the following based on the design direction we're seeing on the larger Oceanis 41 line. 

A few things to watch for if/when you take delivery. Make sure you are present wen they prep the keel. Our iron keels should be epoxy coated by the factory. But they dont do this...and I've had trouble with rust spots forming on our 343. 

Get the folding prop especially if you have short season and light air days. We added a feathering Kiwi prop 1 year afterwards (at first haulout) and its given us so many more sailing days. Folding prop is even better. 1/2 knot or more under sail, but at the expense of 1/2 knot under power. 

Its a beautiful thing to have a new boat and a dealer warranty.


----------



## bobperry (Apr 29, 2011)

I agree with Ski on the battens. Two full at the top and two half on the bottom. It gives you a main more sensitive to trim. I like that.

A solid prop would be nice if you planned on motoring 75% of the time although as Ski says the Max prop is great in reverse and a solid prop with it's asymmetrical blades is not as good. The right prop should cost you nothing in terms of top end speed under power. I have done a lot of prop testing over the years and the one this I found that was consistent was that all props when sized correctly were able to drive the boat at hull speed.


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

night0wl said:


> ....
> 
> A few things to watch for if/when you take delivery. Make sure you are present wen they prep the keel. Our iron keels should be epoxy coated by the factory. But they dont do this...and I've had trouble with rust spots forming on our 343. ..


My personal experience with a Bene steel keel was that 5 coats of epoxy on bright metal did the job well and would last for years except where dinged. I still dont get the cost utility of steel versus lead...on any otherwise very nicely packaged product.


----------



## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

Granted the Bene in question is built here in the states.....In europe IIRC lead is much more expensive than steel/iron as the "literally" "lead mines" are becoming extinct, ie they do not have lead available to mine! Hence the use of iron in a lot of the designs. 

With this in mind, an iron keel if epoxied from the get go, then redone every 10-20 yrs or so will serve one very well! On my boat, I would only gain 3-400 lbs of wt, altho at times, I think it might be nice!

Marty


----------



## night0wl (Mar 20, 2006)

P.S. - here is the thread I created when I was "gnashing teeth and staying up nights" about buying our new boat. It was a thrilling time of life.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/boat-review-purchase-forum/48392-beneteau-343-a.html

We're just now feeling like we've mastered her ways. Made some key upgrades since new as follows:
1) Rocna anchor + 125' all chain 
2) Battery Monitor
3) Asymetrical Spinnaker (used sail)
4) 4 Hella Turbo fans (should get more...big life changer)
5) LED lighting throughout
6) Raymarine 2kw Radome 24 mile range
7) Standard Horizon GX2150 VHF (need to instal this )...has AIS
8) Wired the existing vhf to nmea network for DSC functionality (this really should be done by dealer or factory...laziness on their part)

Some great sails and some scary days (this past weekend in Columbus Day Regatta...we knocked down and wiped out twice...did some damage to the sails).

After 3 years of ownership...we love our boat and have started broadening our horizons on where we can go with here.


----------



## BAXTEP (May 23, 2011)

Thanks for all the advices! Beneteau doesn't offer lead keel as an option. On top of that for 2012 they now offer lower end Simrad electronics instead of Raymarine. Dealer tells me that they are going to bottom paint the boat with VC-17, I guess I need to make sure that number of coats is greater than 2 for the keel then.

Still contemplating the 6'2" vs. 4'6". I do like upwind sailing as it's most fun thing to do and with shoal keel and heavier ballast and thus bigger displacement I'm guessing that upwind performance of the boat will be significantly worse.


----------



## night0wl (Mar 20, 2006)

BAXTEP said:


> Thanks for all the advices! Beneteau doesn't offer lead keel as an option. On top of that for 2012 they now offer lower end Simrad electronics instead of Raymarine. Dealer tells me that they are going to bottom paint the boat with VC-17, I guess I need to make sure that number of coats is greater than 2 for the keel then.
> 
> Still contemplating the 6'2" vs. 4'6". I do like upwind sailing as it's most fun thing to do and with shoal keel and heavier ballast and thus bigger displacement I'm guessing that upwind performance of the boat will be significantly worse.


This all depends on your waters. In retrospect, I wish I would have gotten the deeper draft.

You'll love it more for club racing because with the shoal draft, our Beneteaus have a tendency to be pretty tender. For example, with my 4'9" draft, I *HAVE* to put in a reef at 15 knots or I will be overpowered. But, the flip side is that I can easily go to the Bahamas, Biscayne Bay, and the Florida Keys...areas known for very very skinny, shallow water. But again, these are my LOCAL waters. I pay dearly for the privelege of gunkholing in club racing the races on ocean waters of Fort Lauderdale and I sometimes have to withdraw from races because beating upwind becomes an excercise in futility (vmg is backwards) if I'm also fighting the Gulfstream current...

Lake Michigan isn't really a location for gunkholing and shallow anchorages either. Why would you get a shallow draft

As for bottom paint - 2 coats is standard and part of the "commissioning" that Beneteau requires the dealer to do. Its important to make sure they put true 2 coats. The way I enforced this was to have each coat be 2 different color. My undercoat was red, and my top coat was black. That way, I know when the paint needs to be redone because I can see the red underneath. Dealer fought me all the way on this but I insisted....they buy the paint in bulk and skimp if they can get away with all one color.

More important than the coats of VC-17 (which performs anti-fouling)...is that you get them to properly prep and epoxy barrier coat the keel. This means grinding the iron (aka "prepping") to shiny bare metal, then IMMEDIATELY treating it/covering it with Epoxy Barrier Coat like Interprotect....2 coats minimimum, 3 or more preferred.

THEN apply the VC-17 bottom paint.


----------



## bobperry (Apr 29, 2011)

Not being able to sail somewhere due to draft is not "fast".
Choice of draft is very personal and all about where you sail. It's not about performance if you mean VMG. But if you can't go there that could be one way of defining "poor performance".


----------



## night0wl (Mar 20, 2006)

Curious that they're now coming with Simrad electronics. Electronics (for the most part) are usually dealer installed so it could be that this dealer has a close relationship with Simrad. Can you list the model #'s of the Simrad equipment they're providing. Particularly the:

1) Wind instrument
2) Bi-data or tri-data
3) Autopilot
4) Chartplotter.


----------



## emoney (Jun 2, 2010)

Draft really is a personal choice, and don't let anyone tell you differently......except maybe me. Ok, just kiddin'. As a skinny water sailor, I can tell you that draft does come into consideration. However, I draft 4'10" ish, with mean low tide of 1 foot....that's right, ONE FOOT. The channel in, on the other hand, is cut to 7' so what's to worry about? I really don't notice an issue, because I'd be cognizant of depth regardless (with 1' you gotta be on the lookout). So, think long term and broadly before you decide, and then go with your gut.

As for the A/C. Now mind you, I've not lived aboard, but I've always found that the fans keep us cool enough, and it's almost always hot down here (Florida, West Coat, Tampa-ish), but there's a lot to be said about keeping mamma happy. Now, heat on the other hand, in Chicago anyway, would be a "must have" for me.

Oh, and the two different color bottom paint idea was a great one. Good luck, keep us posted and don't forget the main rule of sailnet: Pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## PCP (Dec 1, 2004)

BAXTEP said:


> ... Dealer tells me that they are going to bottom paint the boat with VC-17, I guess I need to make sure that number of coats is greater than 2 for the keel then.
> 
> ...


Interlux VC 17 is not an epoxy coat barrier but just an anti fulling . You should have on Benetau an option for a two coat epoxy barrier (Interlux VC-Tar or Interprotect 2000), unless they have already have done that on the factory and that is not a standard procedure among boat builders.

Make sure they have done it, because that is very important, not only for rust on the keel, but as an osmosis prevention. The VC 17 goes on top of that.

Regards

Paulo


----------



## BAXTEP (May 23, 2011)

night0wl said:


> Curious that they're now coming with Simrad electronics. Electronics (for the most part) are usually dealer installed so it could be that this dealer has a close relationship with Simrad. Can you list the model #'s of the Simrad equipment they're providing. Particularly the:
> 
> 1) Wind instrument
> 2) Bi-data or tri-data
> ...


Here is the list from the spec sheet I'm working with. Now I got quotes from two dealers just to make sure I'm getting a fair deal on the boat and both list Simrad in packages for 2012.

1. NAV PACK G: SIMRAD IS20 GRAPHIC
 SIMRAD DST 800 TRANSDUCER
2. NAV PACK H: SIMRAD NSS8 MULTIFUNCTION DISPLAY
SIMRAD IS20 WIND
SIMRAD IS20 MASTHEAD
3. NAV PACK I: SIMRAD RS25 VHF
SIMRAD AHK05 HANDSET
4. AUTOPILOT: SIMRAD (NO MODEL NUMBER PROVIDED)


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

PCP said:


> Interlux VC 17 is not an epoxy coat barrier but just an anti fulling . You should have on Benetau an option for a two coat epoxy barrier (Interlux VC-Tar or Interprotect 2000), unless they have already have done that on the factory and that is not a standard procedure among boat builders...


My experience with the barrier coatings is that they are not hard enough for this application, and anyway two coats is just getting started. I have used straight West epoxy, five coats for this application. Of course the result should be smoothed if not faired before painting, another sensible requirement the dealer wont want to do.

The dealer just wants the boat out the door, the buyer wants a bottom he can live with for ten years, the gap in expectation here is about $3-4000. Thus my advice to have a professional (not the dealer no offense intended...) do the job.

PS - this application above being the covering of an iron keel!


----------



## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

gee, a mean low tide of 1', that is low yeah right. around here as stated upwards of -4! I know of one place that is cut to 5' at 0! guess the depth last summer with a -2.9 tide...... a whopping 2.1' of actual depth. Even the PB's in my YC heading there over the 7-4 weekend took notice when this was pointed out! yeah, fraft amount does seem to get personal. For those like me where I am in 600+; most of the time with in 400-600 yds off shore, draft?!?!?! why worry

I also agree with paulo, if the dealer ONLY does VC17 that is a paint only. Get 2-3 coats for one brand, another epoxy brand needs 4-6. I do not remember the brands as to which needs the amount of layers, other than one is thinner, hence the 4-6 vs 2-3 coats.

marty


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

BAXTEP said:


> ...
> 4. AUTOPILOT: SIMRAD (NO MODEL NUMBER PROVIDED)


I can't comment on the SIMRAD gear, you might want to check with a few other buyers who have lived with their gear for a year or two. In this day and age, I would think there would be a PC in the middle of this gear. But be sure the autopilot is an underdeck unit, I guess in their line a hydraulic drive.

Have fun, but try to take the time to get a right plan so you will minimize any learning experience. Most of us dont get to buy new boats too often...sigh.


----------



## PCP (Dec 1, 2004)

sailingfool said:


> My experience with the barrier coatings is that they are not hard enough for this application, and anyway two coats is just getting started. ...
> The dealer just wants the boat out the door, the buyer wants a bottom he can live with for ten years, the gap in expectation here is about $3-4000. Thus my advice to have a professional (not the dealer no offense intended...) do the job.


From the VC17 product file:

Associated Products 
Product Code Description
V172 216 202 YMA601 YAV135 YEA729

VC 17m Thinner - To ease application

Special Thinner - For wiping down previously painted surfaces

Fiberglass Solvent Wash - To clean bare fiberglass prior to application

Fiberglass Surface Prep - Water based cleaner for bare fiberglass

Watertite - Epoxy Filler for filling and fairing

*VC Tar2 - Epoxy primer for blister protection*

http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/VC-17m-extra-with-biolux-info-usa.pdf

Regards

Paulo


----------



## night0wl (Mar 20, 2006)

BAXTEP said:


> Here is the list from the spec sheet I'm working with. Now I got quotes from two dealers just to make sure I'm getting a fair deal on the boat and both list Simrad in packages for 2012.
> 
> 1. NAV PACK G: SIMRAD IS20 GRAPHIC
> SIMRAD DST 800 TRANSDUCER
> ...


From what you're providing with model #s...these are *NOT* low end or bargain bin electronics. They're decidedly middle of the road. Good value and all you'll need on a boat like the B34.

Simrad is a big player and these instruments are on par with Raymarine's mainstream (C8 Classic plotter, ST60+) instruments, equipment in terms of prices I've looked up at Defender.com

No autopilot? I'd push for a wheel pilot auto.


----------



## night0wl (Mar 20, 2006)

sailingfool said:


> I can't comment on the SIMRAD gear, you might want to check with a few other buyers who have lived with their gear for a year or two. In this day and age, I would think there would be a PC in the middle of this gear. But be sure the autopilot is an underdeck unit, I guess in their line a hydraulic drive.
> 
> Have fun, but try to take the time to get a right plan so you will minimize any learning experience. Most of us dont get to buy new boats too often...sigh.


I disagree with the underdeck autopilot. For the Beneteau 34, which is a rather light displacement boat, a linear drive pilot is overkill. A wheel pilot is more than good enough and less complex to manage/maintain.

A pc hooking up to the system is still usually an owner add-on afterwards.

You may want to find out if Simrad has software that allows you to see radar images on a laptop or a repeater down below at the nav station. My C80 series didn't allow that...wish the E80 series could have fit at the helm! Thats a great feature Raymarine offers.


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

PCP said:


> ...
> 
> Watertite - Epoxy Filler for filling and fairing
> 
> ...


However a steel keel wont develop blisters, the problem issue is rust. VCTar and Interprotect barrier coatings have characteristics which make them great for covering large hull areas, but a downside is they are a little soft. I have only used straight epoxy on steel, two keels, and found it to work effectively. I would expect two coats of bottom coat epoxy to start rusting in a year or two, but who knows, maybe some one who has relied on that can comment.

As to the Watertite... Interlux may sell it for fairing, but you would have to be nutty to use it for such, it sets up as hard as rock and is very difficult to sand. Filler yes, fairing ugh.


----------



## PCP (Dec 1, 2004)

sailingfool said:


> However a steel keel wont develop blisters, the problem issue is rust. VCTar and Interprotect barrier coatings have characteristics which make them great for covering large hull areas, but a downside is they are a little soft. I have only used straight epoxy on steel, two keels, and found it to work effectively. I would expect two coats of bottom coat epoxy to start rusting in a year or two, but who knows, maybe some one who has relied on that can comment.
> 
> As to the Watertite... Interlux may sell it for fairing, but you would have to be nutty to use it for such, it sets up as hard as rock and is very difficult to sand. Filler yes, fairing ugh.


I was not talking about the keel.

I agree that the keel should have been coated with epoxy but that is made in the shipyard not by the dealer (and I trust it has been made). I was talking about the hull that if I understand correctly was going to take only an anti-fulling.

"KEEL 
The cast-iron keel is fitted to the boat by a system of screws and stainless steel backing plates and bonded. To increase its life, the keel is given an anti-corrosion treatment and improved finish in the factory before assembly, using epoxy-based coatings and paint."

The Epoxy coating of the hull is an option and it is made normally by the dealer. Anyway, two extra coats of epoxy over the already treated keel is not going to hurt and even will add some extra protection.

Regards

Paulo


----------



## WDS123 (Apr 2, 2011)

The Karma dealership is first rate, looking for a long term relationship with their customers, so you can count on their advice. 

Bob Perry is correct - full depth keel

Get the real mainsail as well as lazy jacks. In Mast furriers kill the luff because the mast section is enormous.

fresh water tends to be higher risk for blisters than salt water ( some science about the molecules ) - so go extremely carefully over the epoxy barrier coating specs. 

A/C ? If you intend to use the boat as a floating condo, get A/C, if you plan on sailing the boat, forget about A/C and use the money to upgrade the electronics to Raymarine e-7


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

Hey Baxtep I own a Beneteau 34 great boat, me and my family just spence 20 days sailing in the Pacific North West. Out in the west the winds can be rather up and down so I opted for the in mast roller works great no problems so far. Our boat sailed great on the trip we were in 17 knots of wind and managed a 7.3 knots of speed for over a 2 hour period on a beam reach heading across the strait. We have the deep keel and no folding prop. We replaced our batters with agm witch increased our house to 220 amp hours from 150 with normal deep cycle. We also have a Webasto Water heat system which works great and a must for where we sail. Our last boat was a beneteau First 285, another great boat that our family grew out of.


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

Oh by the way we love our raymarine hey just work! We were looking at a new 450 with the simrad and 1 lcd display was unreadable from LC was defective. In my view Raymarine builds a better product


----------



## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

BAXTEP said:


> We went to the sailboat show at Annapolis and I really liked the 34 in person so I'm thinking of going forward and using the 12.5K show discount that Beneteau is offering. As a relatively new boater (I have a 28' Coronado currently) I have a couple questions that might sound beaten up but please hear me out:
> 
> 1. My wife tells me that air conditioning is a must. Do I need an Air Conditioner (I dock in Chicago, Burnham Harbor)?
> 
> ...


Before I comment, I will disclose that I have certain biases: one in favor of buying a slightly heavier-built used boat (for the same money) and another in favor of buying a boat that you could sail to its PHRF rating, should you decide that you are interested in racing.

1. As to air conditioning, it would not be an important factor for me, but I have never spent any time on a boat in Chicago. If it is what you need to get your wife on the boat, then do it. I would not, as I don't think that AC is really a part of the sailing/cruising experience.

2. As to the keel, it is a matter of personal preference. I personally would not like to sacrifice the performance provided by a fin keel. Is it really that shallow there? With modern GPS and chartplotters, it is relatively easy to keep track of depths. Also, if you ever get into racing, in my experience, the ratings adjustment that you get for a shoal draft is never enough to compensate for the diminished pointing ability and performance.

3. I am not a fan of in mast furling, for performance reasons. However, if you are only going to cruise and don't care how high you point, it can be awfully convenient. There is no reason why you can't single hand with the full battened main.

4. I would go for the folding prop. a non-folding prop may slow you down by half a knot or more. And again, if you ever decide to race, the rating adjustment that you will get for it is unlikely to make up for the drag of the non-folding prop.

Again, I am definitely biased, but I wouldn't buy a new coatsal cruiser. Just my two cents. If you shop used in the same price range, you can get a better built and/or larger boat. Just as an example, below is a link to a Sabre 36 from the mid-nineties that could be had in the price range:

View Boat Photos - YachtWorld.com

Not only is it a more solidly built boat, but this type of boat has already done the bulk of its depreciation, so if you go to sell, you won't take as big a hit. Sailboats aren't like cars. If they are built well, they are expected to go for decades.

Of course, if you or your wife has your heart set on this particular model, or if that is what it will take to get your wife on the water, that is clearly what you should do. Best of luck with your decisions.


----------



## jsaronson (Dec 13, 2011)

A shoal keel upwind in a chop is not fun. I don't know the Lake, but if at all possible, I'd get the deep draft keel. The boat will also sail better upwind with the full main you have selected. Congrats!


----------



## johnnyquest37 (Feb 16, 2012)

BAXTEP: Did you buy the boat? What options did you go with? Are you happy with your choices?


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

So Bax did you buy the boat? In my years of sailing I have owned 2 shoal draft boats first a captiva 240 2' draft at 800lbs in the keel and then a center board very tender stoped healing at 20% and stiffened right up. The other was our first 285 another shoal boat with a wing keel, she pounded bad to weather. I think that was the hull not the keel. She was very flat foward on the bottom. She was quick up wind but that might have been the wing keel creating lift. I feel a safe in a blow with the deeper keel than the shoal. 

The in mast roller furling worked great in 35 knots of wind and so did the jibs a no brainer if you have your wife and small kids on the boat.

My only worries is pulling up the anchor in any type of seas, she is so straight up and down at the bow you might get a nick in the gel.


----------



## WDS123 (Apr 2, 2011)

What appeals to you about the Bene 34 ? Versus say another production cruiser in similar price bracket


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

WDS Beneteau Builds a good product and we enjoyed our first 285 she was a great boat.
We did look at other boats like catalina and Jeno and c&c but we were offered a great deal that worked for us. So what about the molds for the Santana 23 water balast are they for sale?


----------



## WDS123 (Apr 2, 2011)

S2023 ?


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

Yes the 2023 are the for sale me and my father in law might be intrested for a good price!!


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

Why are they for sale??? How is WD Shchock doing in the world wide market???


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

So should we go to a private chat to talk about this?


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

So did any one ever hear if Bax purchased his new Beneteau34?


----------



## sailpower (Jun 28, 2008)

PCP said:


> Air conditioned on a 34 ft boat has a problem because you don't have enough battery power to run it, except on the marina and as in the Chicago area you will need more heating than cold, I think a heater would be a better solution.
> 
> I know that the air conditioner will also work for heating but you can only use that at the marina because while you are at anchor, the consumption of that more the freezer and the lights will be too much.
> 
> Paulo


I don't get this. The air conditioning doesn't operate off the battery which is DC power. It runs off AC power either from a generator or shore power. Are you suggesting trying to run it off a DC to AC inverter?


----------



## Marcel D (Apr 15, 2012)

Smart Guy AC vers DC some one comes foward.


----------

