# how do you remove old boat lettering



## saurav16 (Mar 22, 2007)

How would you remove old boat lettering? If I use heat won't it ruin the fiber glass? What have you guys done to remove it? Thanks!


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

IF it is vinyl lettering, heat from a heat gun or torch will work. If you use a torch, you will have to unfortunately from trial and error figure out the "best distance from the lettering to remove it. That is how I have removed some vinyl lettering on my trucks. 

If it is painted on, I found some goof off and a fine plastic steel wool equal worked very well. The spray worked better than the liquid. More because of the ease of application with out spilling in the water. Actual which worked better as far as the liquid itself was the same. 

Good luck.

marty


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

For painted on letters, I used easy off and some 600 to 800 grit wet sand paper. It worked well and didn't damage the gelcoat.


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## Bene505 (Jul 31, 2008)

Not to hijack a thread, since it seems relevant...

How big do the letters have to be? (Boat is registered in Delaware and USCG documented.) Not sure if I need 4" letters or 5" or 6"... ?


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## johnshasteen (Aug 9, 2002)

For painted letters, use EasyOff oven cleaner - spray it on, let it set a minute or so, wipe off the paint. It won't hurt the gelcoat. No matter how you remove the letters, the stern will have faded around them.


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## saurav16 (Mar 22, 2007)

I think the letters are vinyl, I guess heat is the best way?


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## SVlagniappe (Jun 22, 2008)

My vinyl lettering pulled off without needing to use heat. Doesn't hurt to try that first...


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

You might get the vinyl off also with a one sided razor blade or equal sharp object with out using heat. Otherwise, heat with a razor blade or equal works well. 

Even tho above I mentioned trial and error for the torch, as I own one, I am sure the heat gun/hair blow dryer will take some trial and error too to figure out the best distance to remove/shrink up the vinyl so it will come off. 

I liked the spray goof off as was mentioned for ease of use like the "easy off" was mentioned. Also, thinking about it, I may have used some 600 sand paper too to remove some of my old paint before putting on vinyl lettering too. 

marty


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## patrickrea (Aug 20, 2007)

My sign guy recommends a plastic scraper for vinyl lettering or graphics. That way it won't gouge the gelcoat if you get a little careless.


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## bljones (Oct 13, 2008)

Use these, rather than a metal razor blade- you won't scratch the gelcoat.

http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=1&p=53612&cat=2,42194,40727


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

Please note that all the above replies assume that the boat hull is not painted, not a bad assumption as the the OP is not specific. These answers do not apply to removing a name from a painted hull.


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## Quickstep192 (Jan 6, 2001)

Great point by SailingFool. Like most, I always assume gelcoat first, even though my boat is painted. 

That said, my last foray into vinyl letter removal was most successful using a hair dryer on a warm day. When I used a heat gun, the letters tore when I tried to peel them. The hair dryer got them just warm enough to soften the adhesive. Some goof off finished the job. Because that part of the gelcoat was protected form the sun, the fiberglass under the letters was brighter than the surrounding areas.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

You may also find that the fiberglass under the old lettering stands just a hair taller than the surrounding area that has been attacked by the sun over the years. I used 600 grit wet/dry to knock it down and blend it into the surrounding area. That will also help the old name disappear - otherwise, the color difference and the slight elevation difference might be obvious for a while.


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## tausap (Apr 7, 2008)

I removed the vinyl lettering on the Midnite Sun, which has an Awlgrip painted hull, just this last fall. I tried all the various solutions which claimed they would remove lettering/bumper stickers/ etc., along with plastic razor blades to protect the paint/hull....none of it worked. They all sucked. 

The only solution I found satisfactory was the heat gun. Use it on the lowest setting and keep it moving so as not to create any hotspots or damage the hull in any way. Do one or two letters at a time. Then use a plastic putty spreader with a beveled edge, that you get from any hardware store, to get under the edge of the sticker. If you get it right after heat application, and you peel slowly and very gently/smoothly, the lettering should peel right off. If it rips, use the putty spreader to get the small bits off. 

After removing the lettering use a citrus based cleaner to remove the residual glue. The non-petroleum based stuff they sell in the auto parts store for removing tar from auto bodies works well. 

My lettering had been on the boat at least 15 years and came off no problem using the above method.


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## mstern (May 26, 2002)

I had no problems removing old vinyl lettering with a single edge razor blade. No muss, no fuss, no gelcoat scratching. I read about someone who also rounded the corners of the blade before doing the same thing to make it even less likely the gelcoat would be damaged. I removed the adhesive residue with acetone.

As others have mentioned, the hull under the letters was slightly raised and less faded than the surrounding area. I used marine compound to try and rub it down to a uniform height and color, but didn't go too far; I decided to let the sun take care of making things a uniform color. After a couple of years, it is almost impossible to see where the old letters were.


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## duality (Jan 25, 2009)

*just did my name and stripes*

i used a wagner wall paper steamer. once i got an edge up i pulled it up as i moved the steamer down the stripe. worked pretty well, the name was easier than the stripes

mike


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## MtHopeBay (Jul 10, 2008)

*I also have lettering and stripes*



duality said:


> i used a wagner wall paper steamer. once i got an edge up i pulled it up as i moved the steamer down the stripe. worked pretty well, the name was easier than the stripes
> 
> mike


This is a timely thread. I have letters and stripes to remove but I'm not sure if I have a painted or gel coat surface. It looks too smooth to be a roll/brush paint job but it still could be a good spray painted job.

Anyway, if I'm following correctly, I could still use my heat gun as long as I'm careful not to over heat the paint? The stripes will be the hard part. Multiple stripes, 4 I think, each a full inch wide the full length.


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## BaySailerBill (Jun 21, 2008)

You can pick-up plastic razor blades at any auto paint supply house in your area. They cost pennies and no shipping charges.

GTOOD LUCK


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

Hey everyone, I hope you don't mind me tagging along at the end of this thread. I just tried removing the old painted boat name with the Easy Off method (Heavy Duty original formula), with not so great results. Some of the paint came off, with heavy scraping with a plastic razor blade, but not very easily. And after two applications, letting it sit for a good while, most of the paint is still there.

Any suggestions on what to try next? Looking to try not to damage the gelcoat--just want to get the old name off! Ideas?
Thanks!
-J


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## ADMTROX (Apr 5, 2008)

The easy off worked well for me. I could not let it sit too long and used a scrubbie to assist. Is it possible you let it sit too long?


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## gershel (Feb 4, 2001)

Auto body shops. that have to remove pin stripes and graphics, use a 3M product that looks like a round rubber wheel that fits into an electric drill. It removes the vinyl and adhesive and does not damage the gel coat. I used it to remove waterline stripe and lettering and it works as advertised. It's available in auto body supply stores.
Marc

3M 7501 - Disc Pinstripe Removal


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## chris_gee (May 31, 2006)

I just used a window scraper - a razor blade in a plastic holder for a dollar or two, and took off any glue with meths. Other solvents may be better but this worked ok. I would have used a heat gun but two have gone phutt in 4 months. It came off easily.


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

ADMTROX said:


> The easy off worked well for me. I could not let it sit too long and used a scrubbie to assist. Is it possible you let it sit too long?


Well, I tried different lengths of time. Tried it at 10 min, 30 min, and 1 hour-ish. Not much varied, just a little bit of paint at a time with the plastic razor blade (trying not to harm the gelcoat).

What kind of scrubbie did you use? Maybe a little friction would help.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*Removing Vinyl Lettering & Its Ghostly Shadow??*

I am involved with the SeaScouts in Mobile, AL and we recently had one of our boats hauled for bottom maintenance. While on blocks in the yard, the transom was facing the afternoon sun which provided just enough heat for us to easily lift the vinyl lettering off. 

Since I'm sure not everyone will be so lucky, I'll add that my stepdad has a sign business and often makes lettering, etc. for friends and family members' who have a need for that sort of thing. Normally, we would use a heat gun or blowdryer (on hot) to heat up the vinyl. Once hot, it is easily lifted with a plastic squeege and (if necessary, to peel up edges to get you started) a pair of pointed tweezers. Rubbing alcohol and a clean rag (towel or baby diaper) will work to remove any excess adhesive left on the bow or transom. Keep your heat gun or blowdryer handy during this stage as I've found it helps to keep the adhesive pliable and you won't have to use as much elbow grease. 

My question is... how do you get rid of the shadow left behind once the numbers or letters are gone? Should you wax/buff them out prior to putting new numbers/letters on? Or apply the new vinyl and then wax/buff? 

Any suggestions, instructions, input would be greatly appreciated!!


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

OnMoblBay said:


> I am involved with the SeaScouts in Mobile, AL and we recently had one of our boats hauled for bottom maintenance. While on blocks in the yard, the transom was facing the afternoon sun which provided just enough heat for us to easily lift the vinyl lettering off.
> 
> Since I'm sure not everyone will be so lucky, I'll add that my stepdad has a sign business and often makes lettering, etc. for friends and family members' who have a need for that sort of thing. Normally, we would use a heat gun or blowdryer (on hot) to heat up the vinyl. Once hot, it is easily lifted with a plastic squeege and (if necessary, to peel up edges to get you started) a pair of pointed tweezers. Rubbing alcohol and a clean rag (towel or baby diaper) will work to remove any excess adhesive left on the bow or transom. Keep your heat gun or blowdryer handy during this stage as I've found it helps to keep the adhesive pliable and you won't have to use as much elbow grease.
> 
> ...


Well, since this is a revived thread I participated in, I'll take a shot at replying.

Our lettering was painted on, but either way, it leaves a ghost image if it's been there long enough. In our case, the gelcoat was not only a slightly different color, it was also raised where the lettering had been.

To cure this problem, we wet sanded the entire transom. This would be harder to do if the lettering is on the sides of the hull. If I recall correctly, we wet-sanded with 600, then 800, then 1200. Then we compounded the entire thing to remove the tiny sanding scratches. Then we applied new lettering.

Two things: use a sanding block, and be very careful not to overdo it. You don't want to sand through your gelcoat!

This worked for us...


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## PalmettoSailor (Mar 7, 2006)

I used paint remover on a rag and scotchbrite pads and then a final wipe down with a paint thinner wetted rag for the last of the residue to remove the painted on letters of our first boat. That effort took a whole lot of elbow grease.

Our current boat had vinyl lettering including a graphic with lots of little bits. I took that off by peeling and scraping with a thumbnail. It was easier than the painted on letters but I would have paid $20 for one of those plastic razorblades if I knew there was such a thing. My thumb was sore for days.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Some people use WD40 to remove stickers from cars and motorcycles. Just soaking the sticker with WD40 is sometimes enough to remove it. If not, the sticker can be heated with a blow drier and more WD40 applied. The sticker usually needs to be pulled slowly so that it doesn't tear apart. WD40 usually doesn't damage paint.


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## asdf38 (Jul 7, 2010)

Old thread but I just read it before removing my own lettering.

I had vinyl lettering over a painted hull. I think it's been there 10+ years and it came off easier than I expected. I found that heat wasn't needed but it made it a lot easier. However there was a pretty narrow range of temperatures that worked well to remove the vinyl but didn't risk bubbling the paint. 

After removing the letters brush cleaner (toluene, which I find to be fantastic for cleaning) got rid of the remaining adhesive easily. After it was all done there was barely any evidence of the old letters. It probably took an hour or two.


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## dvuyxx (Jun 23, 2009)

I thought that I would need heat to remove old vinyl lettering. I was pleasantly surprised that by carefully lifting a corner of the vinyl with a blade I could peel the vinyl off. I think that it had been there for about eight years. Definitely try that first.


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## Dog Ship (Sep 23, 2011)

A good thread for those who have vinyl lettering on a gelcoat finish. 
Our boat was painted with Awlgrip and has the name, license number and yacht club of the privious owner painted on it. 
Other than sanding the entire boat and repainting it I am at a loss as to what to do. I want to change the name, get rid of the RVYC and change the license number without needlessly repainting the entire boat. Any idea's?


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## dvuyxx (Jun 23, 2009)

Was the lettering painted/sprayed on with Awlgrip as well? If it was a "lesser" paint, maybe it can be buffed out and then a rubdown with light buff with awlcare? First, if it is a paint that isn't as tough as awlgrip, it might be pulled off by rubbing hard with MEK.


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## neverknow (Feb 2, 2011)

I'd be careful with MEK. It can get under most finishes. Not sure about Awlgrip? Even if it doesn't look like it right away later it might peel?


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## dvuyxx (Jun 23, 2009)

neverknow, point taken ... I would keep the MEK right on the lettering and do small areas at a time. You can also backwipe with a wet rag to dillute the MEK after rubbing. With awlgrip underneath, your options are limited for removing an overlay of paint.

Found this from Awlgrip.
AWLGRIP ONLY: Solvents such as AWL-PREP -T0008, AWL-PREP PLUS-T0115, AWL-PREP 400-T0170, toluene, lacquer thinner, M.E.K., acetone, or kerosene may be used to soften or remove heavy build ups of grease and grime, felt tip markings, or aerosol spray paint on the AWLGRIP Topcoat

But to your point, proceed slowly testing in a small area first.


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

If it's not paint there's a product called marine formula by debond corp; I use it on all adhesive, including 5200.

It will not harm gelcoats


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## PAULCR1 (Dec 9, 2011)

We're removing our lettering as I write...and doing it with a steamer and a putty knife. However, there's still an adhesive backing from the lettering and we're not sure what to use to get that off. Any suggestions? Acetone?


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## deltaten (Oct 10, 2012)

Our shop guy used a special, rubber wheel and a VS angle grinder to "erase" vinyl stick-on lettering on the trucks before re-painting. Too many paint jobs ruined by the razor use and the plastic scrapers din't work worth a dammitol!
Ya could try a call to the local lettering shop and see what they recommend??
Paint's another story entirely. Lotsa T&E, elbow grease and Ben_gay on hand help


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## mstern (May 26, 2002)

PAULCR1 said:


> We're removing our lettering as I write...and doing it with a steamer and a putty knife. However, there's still an adhesive backing from the lettering and we're not sure what to use to get that off. Any suggestions? Acetone?


Acetone. Works like a charm.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

WD40 removes the gum from price tags & so forth better than anything else I've used. It would probably do as well with gum left from vinyl lettering.

If the lettering was done with sign paint, Easy Off oven cleaner will lift it right off - spritz it on and wipe the lettering off seconds later. It won't harm gelcoat done that way - don't know what might happen if it was left on - it's pretty caustic.


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## CorvetteGuy (Jun 4, 2011)

PAULCR1 said:


> We're removing our lettering as I write...and doing it with a steamer and a putty knife. However, there's still an adhesive backing from the lettering and we're not sure what to use to get that off. Any suggestions? Acetone?


I found acetone to melt the gel coat if left on to long, bad experirance, try goo be gone


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## somedayNYC (Feb 4, 2013)

You may also want to buy some adhesive remover to make sure you remove everything, not just the vinyl letters. Any residual adhesive will resist waxing and eventually attract dirt.


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## happyoutdoors (Apr 26, 2014)

I know this is an old thread - but I just had to do this and I thought I'd leave my input. I had both paint and vinyl lettering to remove. 

First determine if you're dealing with paint or vinyl by trying to peel up a corner with your nail. 

For painted lettering, use a buffer like a Porter Cable and rubbing compound/fiberglass cleaner and just keep going until the paint is gone. Tape off any areas that you'd like to keep with masking tape. The tape holds up pretty good to the buffer. 

You can also wet sand the paint off with 400 grit, then 800 and maybe 1200 and then buff, but be careful not to take too much gelcoat off, because once it's gone it's gone.

For vinyl, a very effective way to do that is to use a pinstriping wheel (3M) mounted in a drill. This is like a big eraser. It's a very fast process. Don't hold the wheel in one place too long because things will heat up. 

If your boat's like mine the gelcoat underneath the lettering may be higher than elsewhere, so even after you remove the lettering there will be a bit of an imprint. You can try to buff this out a bit.


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## wfish11 (Mar 27, 2012)

I have done tons of these. You will need a heat gun, (rent or borrow one, don't try to use a propane torch!) a plastic scraper, acetone, fine scotch brite and some 400 grit sand paper. You maybe able to just slip the letters off with the acetone and the scraper (I use the yellow ones you can buy for fiberglassing). Hopefully your boat's hull is white otherwise you will need some spray paint the same color as your boat. 

The real problem here is after you have removed the letters there will be a shadow left. This is the old gel coat that was protected by the letters and perhaps some left over glue. Use the acetone to scrub off the glue with the scotch brite. If the letters still show use the sand paper to remove them. Put your new letters on and ideally wax with a few coats of polyglow. Or use a good quality marine wax, it won't be as glossy as the Polyglow but it will pass the ten foot test (looks great from 10 feet away).

I use 6" or more for the boat's name and 3-4" for the home port.

Good Luck


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## dvuyxx (Jun 23, 2009)

I think that before you bring out the heat gun or solvents you should just try to see if the vinyl will pull up relatively on its own. Use a plastic razor blade tool. Even vinyl that has been on for a while sometimes peels off fairly easily depending on the mil. Then Goo Gone the residue, followed by some acetone and a wash.


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## Rhapsody-NS27 (Apr 8, 2012)

The letters on my boat were old/cracked. I used a scraper to get them off, the sticky residue was removed with acetone. I wet-sanded the area but still have a ghost still showing a little of the blue letters that were used on the gel coat but I don't think it'll be noticed once new letters are in place. this was for the hailing port, which I may change. The boat's name was removed for the same old/cracked condition but that space will be painted over before new letters are put on.


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