# Suggestions for Repair of C&C 33 windows



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*Suggestions for Repair of C&C 33 windows*

Hello,

I am requesting information on the fix of C&C 33 windows, that are just beginning to leak. These windows are glued into a recessed portion of the cabin walls from the outside. If anyone has had experience would appreciate your comments.

Thanks Tom


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## mikehoyt (Nov 27, 2000)

*Suggestions for Repair of C&C 33 windows*

Tom,

My father had 1981 C&C 36 from 81 - 1990. He had same problems from day one. Eventually he took it to a boatyard where they removed and rebedded the windows. Problem went away.

Other than the hassle of removing the old ones I don''t see why you couldn''t do the same yourself. Even replacing the glass is cheap. I recently had a quote of $15 Canadian (about 15 cents US) per pane for lexan 35 x 6 panes for my Niagara 26.

My father had tried the usual route of caulking, etc ... with limited success prior to this.

Good Luck!

Mike Hoyt
Halifax NS

PS. To Jeff H and others. What a great BBS!


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## hooligan (May 18, 2000)

*Suggestions for Repair of C&C 33 windows*

What I have done on two previous C&C''s, and I have seen it done on a number of others (that''s where I got the idea). Carefully remove the windows. Rebed and replace. Then drill holes around the perimiter of the window, say every three inches. Mechanically fasten with stainless screws, round heads. Looks good. The problem with not using mechanical fastening is that the windows move as the hull flexes. That is what causes the windows to become loose originally.


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## jeffyham (Apr 19, 2007)

I replaced all 4 windows on my C&C 40 myself. I had deep tinted lexan cut and routed. I used old windows as templates. I drilled holes and counter sunk at appx 4" centers appz 1/2 inch from edges of windows. I then used 5200 to rebed the windows and nice looking SS screws (about 1.25 in long I think) to hold them all in. Cleaned up inside and that was 3 years ago - no leaks at all. Life is good.


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

I just did my Viking 33 (C&C by Ontario Yachts using the same "grey gasketing" used by C&C and CS). We cut new 1/4" Plexiglass and simply bedded with clear exterior silicone caulking and pushed in the gasketing...the secret to this is to pull up with your fingers into the frames until you feel it gripping the plexi. Put the gasketing in hot water first...it makes it very pliable...and then wipe it dry.

Prior to this, of course, you have to be fastidious about getting all dead gasketing/butyl tape/goo out of the frames, and you also have to mask off the plexi, save for the 1/2" that's going to be inside the frame. You should also mask off the window hole to keep silicon from dripping.

The gasketing is available from Holland Marine Products in Toronto for $2.95/foot...not cheap, but I think I used 14 or 15 feet, and the plastic was about $20, so $65 and two hours of work for sparkling new portlights. No leaks, even when I powerwash them.


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

This post is 6 years old......


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Jeff- You just responded to another six year old post.. you really need to check the dates before you reply.


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

Freesail99 said:


> This post is 6 years old......


Oh, for feck...well, my advice is five years ahead of its time, then!


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## Sailormon6 (May 9, 2002)

> Jeff- You just responded to another six year old post.. you really need to check the dates before you reply.


Hey, I'm glad it got resurrected. It just happens that I'm thinking about replacing the windows in my C&C 35, and this thread will be a help. Thanks!


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## christyleigh (Dec 17, 2001)

Sailormon6 said:


> Hey, I'm glad it got resurrected. It just happens that I'm thinking about replacing the windows in my C&C 35, and this thread will be a help. Thanks!


 But...Hopefully you will not follows Jeff's use of 5200 as the bond is too close to welding a piece on. 4200 or a few others would be a better choice.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Stan-

I'd agree that 5200 is too aggressive an adhesive and would also recommend BoatLife LifeSeal or 4200 for bedding the ports.


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

sailingdog said:


> Stan-
> 
> I'd agree that 5200 is too aggressive an adhesive and would also recommend BoatLife LifeSeal or 4200 for bedding the ports.


4200 or 291 or 231 for bedding the portlight _frames_, sure...but if it's plastic in the Great Lakes, you can go with the gasket stripping and silicone caulk.

C&Cs have these generally inadequate fixed portlights. Most people who do heavy weather in C&Cs either bolt through 1/2" Lexan on the outside (and seal with 4200 or something tough), or get creative and glass over the entire 7 x 36" portlights (varies from model to model) and cut out two standard 7 x 14" openings for bronze or SS opening portlights, which really cool the boats down and keep the humidity lower.

C&C was generally a great boat, but their companionways and portlights aren't, being a little light in the first case for offshore and a little thin in the second case, in my opinion. The foredeck hatches, almost all made by Atkins and Hoyle (and still being made), were excellent and have stood the test of time. I have them on both my '73 and my '88 boats.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Valiente said:


> foredeck hatches, almost all made by Atkins and Hoyle (and still being made), were excellent and have stood the test of time. I have them on both my '73 and my '88 boats.


Thank you for the compliment on Atkins & Hoyle Hatches. My name is Ben Atkins and I have just started to get involved in the business. I hope that some of my inside knowledge regarding hatches, ports and davits will come in handy to some of the people on this board.

Those old hatches were originally made by my father and can be found on many of the boats built in North America during that time frame. We still carry all the parts and do a lot of repairs of the old acrylic, hinges, etc.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Benjamaphone-

Welcome to sailnet... good to have you here... but please read this *post* on the full disclosure policy on this site, as well as this *post* to get the most out of your time on Sailnet.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I understand and apologize for not fully disclosing my professional position. Thanks for the welcome and I hope that I can add some value to these boards.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Ben-

Glad to help  And your input and advice is welcome.


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

Tom M said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am requesting information on the fix of C&C 33 windows, that are just beginning to leak. These windows are glued into a recessed portion of the cabin walls from the outside. If anyone has had experience would appreciate your comments.
> 
> Thanks Tom


Yes, I have done this on a C&C-designed Viking 33, which is from a fixed port point of view, an identical job.

You'll need the "grey gasketing" common to CS, C&C and Ontario Yacht boats of that period, and you can contact Holland Marine in Toronto

Holland Marine Products

or South Shore Yachts, which has a large stock of superannuated C&C parts:

Boats.com

EDIT: Goddamnit, I did it again.

Anyway, Mr. Atkins, I have several of your products aboard my new-to-me steel cruiser, and while they are excellently made, you have to get the price of those replacement gaskets down!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Sometimes the initial cost of excellence is high but in the long run it will pay off. The cost associated with the gasket material directly comes from the fact that it is a special high density neoprene rubber. This will last 5-10 times longer than conventional gasket material that is found in many marine stores. Also, the price of one or two gaskets will be higher than if you were to order enough to replace everything on your boat; as with everything, quantity = discount.


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

I'll keep that in mind as I would like to keep your portlights and hatches in for a proposed world cruise...they'll be put to the test, I'll say that much.

Call Peter at Holland Marine for the gasketing...he'll set you up. You should see what's at your former address...another stinking great condo....


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I'm happy that you trust our products for such an extreme journey. They won't let you down! 

As for the building, I was there the day it was taken down. It was a real shame because my Great-Great-Grandfather bought that property and the small house that was on it. But when the cost of carrying a small piece of land becomes as high as it has, the small guys get driven out to make room for the yuppies  I would have liked to stay there but now we have a nice place in Napanee, where the air is clean and the taxes are low! 
If you want to know more about that piece of land and its history I typed up a small blurb on link on our homepage, titled History.


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## aburchell44 (Jun 30, 2008)

I am in the middleof replacing my windows on my Mark I C&C 30. The windows were the original alluminum framed inserts. One side leaked. I am having abuddy cut replacement lexan pieces. We will urethane theseto the o/s and then I will bolt through the cabin top. Getting the olde windows out was a pain. I also re-filled the outer-inner cabin top and inside with 3M Marine 5200. I will sand finish the inside edge of the window prior to the new windows being glued in. 

ANdrew
Halifax


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