# Using an alcohol stove



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I recently acquired an older alcohol stove. I was told it was used in another Grampian 26. It's a Homestrand Model 126 I would like to see if it is still functional, but have no idea how it works. Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. I will try and upload pictures, but I can't seem to get it to work correctly. Again, thanks!!


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

Homestrand was a model produced by Kenyon Stoves in Conn. - now Kenyon Marine. I had a two burner alcohol/electric model on a prior boat. It actually worked very well, compared to current wick type alcohol stoves.

But - several precautions need to be taken when pre-heating the burners - BEFORE use. This is very important. I had several operating manuals obtained from Kenyon (they were very helpful when I called, even though out of production).

Unfortunately, I passed all the material and spare parts on to the next owner. However, here's a cut and paste of some instructions and tips, which may be useful:



> *Kenyon Alcohol Stove Instructions*
> 
> *source: Kenyon Marine*
> 
> ...





> *Helpfull Hints for Operation and Maintenance of Your Alcohol Stove *
> 
> 1) To Obtain maximum performance from your new stove it is extremely important that you use a quality grade denatured (ethyl) alcohol free from impurities or 91% iso-propyl alcohol stove fuel (not rubbing alcohol) containing less than .03% by weight non volitile matter.
> 
> ...


Hope this helps - otherwise, I can answer any specific questions you may have.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Perfect! That's what I needed. Thank you very much!


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

Alcohol is expensive, relatively low in heat value, and creates a lot of moisture inside the cabin. While it can be used safely (particularly in the non-pressurized Origo type stoves), I am not sure it is ideal any longer in small boats. Can you tell I had a couple of nasty flare-ups?

One advantage, of course, is that unlike propane, the vapours don't collect in the bilge. That is why you can take two course if you find alcohol unsuitable: You can convert the Homestrands in many cases to propane using barbeque "side burners" of 10,000 BTU and a "to code" installation, or you can do what I did and use a folding Coleman stove in the cockpit on a plank. 

This, plus a barbeque, met all my onboard cooking needs.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

We ran an alcohol stove for many years, and after a season of flare ups and strong fumes during the preheat, we took to preheating the burners with a propane torch. We got the self lighting torch tips, and spent 40-60 seconds heating the entire burner with it, then slowly opened the burner valve til it caught. No fumes and no open non pressurized alcohol fires (which are very difficult to see/deal with in bright light)

Although it meant having the torch on board, it was worth it. Also came in handy lighting the BBQ, and for melting rope ends as well.

I realize this means having a propane source on board, but careful use and keeping things in good condition, we had no problems with that.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

_"It actually worked very well, compared to current wick type alcohol stoves."_

TB: 
I think you left out part of that sentence or have a mistaken impression. If I had to finish your sentence I would have ended it by saying compared to modern catalyzed alcohol stoves, the older stoves were harder, more dangerous and put out less heat.

Over the past 40 years, I have owned and used both pressurized and non-pressurized (Origo type) catalyzed alcohol stoves. By comparason the Origo style alcohol stoves are much easier and safer to use (I get a discount on my insurance for having an Origo over propane) and put out a lot more heat. The way the Origo burner aperature and heat disperser is designed at least part of the flame is shaded so that you can see if there is a flame even in direct sunlight.

Jeff


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

Jeff,

I don't have direct experience with catalyzed alcohol stoves, but have many friends who do. With respect to you and others, perhaps I shouldn't have compared my pressurized alcohol stove experience to what I have read and what my friends have told me, regarding the catalyzed stoves requiring _much_ longer cooking times over pressurized. One would assume this is due to a lower temperature heat source.

Regardless, the OP wanted instructions on his specific stove and I fully expected it would result in posters suggesting that he toss the Kenyon pressurized stove overboard and replace it with either an "Origo type", or propane.

For what it's worth (and as you know), I have propane and wouldn't consider any other type on my boat.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

You know I keep hearing people who have never used them talk about slow heating time on Origo vs other stoves. Over the course of the evening, we did an experiment at a recent raft up. Using the same pan, no lid, and measuring cup and water from the same water jug, several propane stoves and my Origo. Using full heat on all stoves, the propane stoves averaged to just over 7 minutes 30 seconds to heat the water (if I remember correctly we were using 4 cups of water) to boiling (defined as the point at which 5 bubbles appeared on the bottom of the water or the first bubble broke loose from the bottom or rose to the surface), and the Origo averaged well under 8 minutes. It should be pointed out that several propane burners were measureably slower than the Origo while one propane burner was very noticably quicker than the others. This probably was not the most scientific experiment. 

As to the heat output issue, Propane does put out more heat per pound than Alcohol. There is no doubt about that. But what is almost always ignored in these discussions is that the design of the burners between catalyzed alcohol and propane stoves, or pressurized alcohol for that matter are very different, allowing the catalyzed alcohol burners to put out similar heat to a propane stove. 

Respectfully,
Jeff


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

Thanks for your clarification Jeff. I'll keep an open mind to catalyzed alcohol stoves in the future.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Valiente-

I do believe that alcohol fumes have the same tendency to collect in the bilge that propane does. _The primary ingredient of denatured alcohol is ethanol, orC2H5OH, which AFAIK is heavier than the primary components in air (N2 andO2__). _Might want to check your basic chemistry textbooks again. 



Valiente said:


> One advantage, of course, is that unlike propane, the vapours don't collect in the bilge. That is why you can take two course if you find alcohol unsuitable: You can convert the Homestrands in many cases to propane using barbeque "side burners" of 10,000 BTU and a "to code" installation, or you can do what I did and use a folding Coleman stove in the cockpit on a plank.
> 
> This, plus a barbeque, met all my onboard cooking needs.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Thank you all for your responses. I am still researching and debating whether to go fuel or propane (The previous threads on Sailnet have been extremely helpful), but I got this stove for free and wanted to at least try it out this weekend. I currently have been using my backpacking stove in the cockpit, which works well at anchor, but not at all times.


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