# Teak Sealers ?



## Elkbanner

I recently moved my boat to freshwater (Great Lakes) from a lifetime in saltwater. I have stripped and cleaned my teak and I am wondering what to do next (no teak decking, just lots of trim). I am not interested in varnish or Cetol. I am curous about teal sealers such Star Brite's Tropical teak oil/sealer or other teak sealers. It appear to me that even though it requires periodic maintenance. It is far less work than varnish or cetol and will last longer than just teak oil. What I do not know is the consequences of a sealer if I later want to put something else on it, such as Cetol. or let it go natural Any advice is welcome. Please don't tell me to paint it.


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## RichH

Several Options on sealers:
Semco, Teak Wonder, etc. 
I use a mix of equal parts of Semco (tinted or 'natural') + Teak Wonder + Thompsons Water Seal (tinted Carmel) when in fresh water for long term (for teak deck sealing).

Sealers only protect from UV damage (the grey's), allow water to penetrate into the wood surface so that the advantages unsurpassable 'wet traction' of teak decks are preserved, etc. 

Sealers will last almost an entire season in fresh water. The more 'coats' the longer the protection. Sealers will be quickly stripped by green salt water coming onto a deck; youre in fresh water so this should be a problem. 
Are EASY to apply, no need to 'mask' as they easily wipe-off of gelcoat. They are easily strippable via TSP when the section needs to be 'refinished'. 

With teak costs approaching $45/ board ft. I think one needs to protect that investment. Teak that is left to go grey and erode, to me, is economic waste.


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## TropicCat

Yet allowing it to go gray is not synonymous with letting it rot. 

Here in my part of Florida, almost all boats have graying teak. The only boats bright and shiny are the ones owned by newbies, or monster yachts with crew. They find out fast enough how long it takes the Florida sun to strip their brand new varnish off the teak, and lose interest in sanding and varnishing every 6 months or paying north of $1000 for a DIY multi year Bristol finish. 

It's Teak .... Let it Gray


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## saildork

This might sound heretical, but after years of trying to keep up with the varnish - sand - revarnish cycle, I finally gave up and now I use Watco teak oil, available in Lowe's/Home Depot type stores. 

I allowed the sun to finish the job of destroying most of my varnish. Then sanded what remained. I had to mask around the teak trim for the first application last Summer, but this Spring I just followed the directions, careful not to get sloppy. A soap and water cleansing, a light sanding, and then one coat rubbed on. Wait 30 minutes, and wipe off the excess. The whole process took about 1 hour on my small boat.

The result is teak that is 'conditioned' for lack of a better word. The teak oil penetrates the wood, doesn't sit on top of it. It leaves the wood looking like brand new, unfinished teak, but with some protection against the ravages of the southern sun. I'll do another coat in the fall and maintain a 6 month cycle of teak treatment. Let's go sailing!


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## Argyle38

Practical Sailor did a run up of varnishes, oils and sealers last year. One of the things they mentioned was the Semco sealer did not leave any scaly residue if left on for too long. It just kind of fades away. 

I like that feature because I may be inconsistent with my maintenance. Not having to re-sand if I let it go too long is a big plus. I applied some this spring, easy to apply and looks good so far, but I'm in Connecticut so the sun hasn't been too tough yet. In any case, re-application will be pretty easy.


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## Elkbanner

I have heard good things about Semco and I certainly like the fact that it fades away in time with no flaking. They have one called natural, do you know if it is tinted? I would prefer to go clear. I feel the great lakes are not that severe and that a coat a year after the intial 2 coats might be suffucuent.


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## RichH

Semco natural doesnt have the needed UV filters as would be afforded by their 'slightly pigmented' offerings. Their "Goldtone" seems to last longer and longer protects against the inevitable UV 'burn' of the teak. ... my impression. 

One downside to Semco for teak decks ... is that it seems to transfer to deck shoe soles over time ... making the shoe soles slippery and causing a need to sand the soles occasionally - just conjecture on my part but I do sand down my deckshoe soles often.


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## arf145

I did my toe rails and hand rails this Spring with Semco Natural. When they say Natural, they mean it. The resulting teak looks like raw teak. I would like a little color in mine--sounds like Goldtone might be my answer. BTW, I can't speak for longevity--it's only been on there for two months, but so far so good. Interestingly, someone approached me at the marina and asked if we had put in a brand new toerail.


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## Antibes

I used starbrite oil my first season on Lake Michigan, Chicago and it held up for about three months.


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## Argyle38

Elkbanner said:


> I have heard good things about Semco and I certainly like the fact that it fades away in time with no flaking. They have one called natural, do you know if it is tinted? I would prefer to go clear. I feel the great lakes are not that severe and that a coat a year after the intial 2 coats might be suffucuent.


I did the Goldtone, since that is what Defender had on the shelf. There is a little pigment in it, but it's not overbearing. As another poster pointed out, I think the natural is truly natural, just the base and no filler. I think the natural requires more coats and may not last as long due to no UV inhibiting fillers in the pigment.


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## TejasSailer

I've used Semco for about three years, and over that time I've moved from pigmented to no pigment. The pigment seems to build up and is a real hassle removing. I'd rather seal more often than scrub and sand to remove the pigment.

This link at the bottom has the various offerings.

Semco Products


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## casey1999

Has anyone use Penofin:

Penofin Marine Oil Finish | Penofin Penetrating Oil Finishes and Wood Stain

I used on some outdoor furniture and it made it look great. Was planing to use it on my teak boat trim. It is an oil type sealer- not a varnish.


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## TropicCat

RichH said:


> Semco natural doesnt have the needed UV filters....


Pardon me.... but since when does teak need U/V protection? They've been using teak on board vessels for 100's of years. I live in a u/v intensive part of the country and sail year round. The teak problems you guys are solving are simply not large enough to warrant attention.

Let's agree to disagree. You guys polish away.... I'll be sailing....


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## jfdubu

I'm using waterlox on my exterior teak this year. I,ve had it on my interior wood for a few years and it looks good. I put it on my teak ladder steps and it lasted 3 years before I recoated this year.


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## Elkbanner

Did you only use the Waterlox sealer on your furniture? Penofin also looks interesting. I think I am more interested in a oil based sealer like Star Brite Tropical or SeaFin. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions.


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## jfdubu

Elkbanner said:


> Did you only use the Waterlox sealer on your furniture? Penofin also looks interesting. I think I am more interested in a oil based sealer like Star Brite Tropical or SeaFin. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions.


Waterlox is tung oil based. So far I've use it on my v berth teak, my capin steps and the swim ladder teak steps. The stuff goes on real easy and seams to last. There is a marine version that is used as an over coat for the normal sealer. The marine version has more uv stabilizers. Next application is the cabin sole. I'll try to get some before and after pic's


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## Minnewaska

Is anyone aware of a good photo documented article on all these sealants and varnishes. Both what they look like new and aged? I'm pretty familiar with most, but not all. I walk down the docks and can easily pick out things like the orange cetol, but sometimes others are much harder.

My cockpit sole, for example, had cetol on it from the prior owner and it was pretty bad. Had it all sanded off and now I'm not sure what I want to do. I'm leaving it bare for the moment, but I'm concerned that we enjoy eating and drinking and entertaining and don't want to be on edge for spills. I'm sure that's why the prior owner poured that plastic yuk all over it. An indistinguishable natural sealant that kept red wine or potato chips from being a problem would be a winner.

My brightwork, by the way, is done with Bristol Finish and its all coming off this year to go back to Epifanes. It really looks great on the cockpit table, but anything exposed to water goes bad fast.


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## RichH

Minnewaska said:


> Is anyone aware of a good photo documented article on all these sealants and varnishes. Both what they look like new and aged? I'm pretty familiar with most, but not all. I walk down the docks and can easily pick out things like the orange cetol, but sometimes others are much harder.
> 
> My cockpit sole, for example, had cetol on it from the prior owner and it was pretty bad. Had it all sanded off and now I'm not sure what I want to do. I'm leaving it bare for the moment, but I'm concerned that we enjoy eating and drinking and entertaining and don't want to be on edge for spills. I'm sure that's why the prior owner poured that plastic yuk all over it. An indistinguishable natural sealant that kept red wine or potato chips from being a problem would be a winner.
> 
> My brightwork, by the way, is done with Bristol Finish and its all coming off this year to go back to Epifanes. It really looks great on the cockpit table, but anything exposed to water goes bad fast.


If the cockpit sole teak is a grating then any 'sealer' or even simple oil finish will work well, for flat deck laminited teak then only a sealer.

The 'secret' for long lasting "Bristol" or any other 'catalyzed' 2-part finish is THICK (for water permeation control and UV protection) otherwise you wont get good UV burn protection. As a former varnishaholic ... Id stay away from varnish as you are ALWAYS recoating or repairing ... and simply use one of the modern 'UV stabilized' "2 parts". I have a 'teakey' and just removed/restored my Honey Teak job .. 10 year old Honey Teak. Such '2 parts' have a very steep 'learning curve', need to be applied THICK and are quite expensive but when amortized over the long term they are the cheapest and least work of nearly all coating systems.

HT - Signature Finish and Honey Teak Products - Home this is just a small 'gypsy' coating manufacturer.


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## Minnewaska

The problem with my Bristol Finish is in a couple places, such as the rub rail, where water can stand in the crevice between the rail and hull. It finds its way under the finish edge and pops its. I'm taking the rail back to natural, like the side decks and leaving it that way. The toe rail will remain varnished, as it fully drains and I don't think your eye will even notice the rub rail. I don't mind varnishing annually, rather than the potential of the BF getting away from me. Varnish can be spot repaired. BF really can't very easily. 

The cockpit sole is laminated teak flooring, not grating.


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## RichH

Minnewaska said:


> The problem with my Bristol Finish is in a couple places, such as the rub rail, where water can stand in the crevice between the rail and hull.


There is absolutely NO coating on the planet that will withstand 'wet' conditions. scarfs, lapps, joins HAVE to be sealed and mechanically strong and correctly made as once the teak gets wet from 'underneath' any topside coating is absolutely going to 'pop' of lift ... and turn the teak black. Only thing that will work there is bottom paint ... or rebuilding the 'joint' correctly so that it doesnt 'wick' ... a good case for encapsulating the 'undersides' of the ENTIRE piece in epoxy lessens water migration THROUGH the wood.


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## Minnewaska

Its hard to describe, Rich, but the rubrail stands off the hull. I believe it's an add-on to the standard aluminum rubrail, which is well sealed against the hull. Nevertheless, I agree that water behind any finish is a problem. I was trying to connect the idea that varnish can be spot repaired if this happens, when Bristol Finish really can't. I'm going natural on the rub rail, so it won't be an issue either way.


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## RichH

Anhytime you get water inside wood cells, you are going to get a change of 'hue' and youre then going to have to sand down deep to affect any repair that 'repair' is going to show .... by color shift or 'crater'. 

HT is easily repairable ... its a urethane-acrylic copolymer system. Super expensive and not all that easy to apply because of its high learning curve.


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## Elkbanner

Does anyone know iif I put a sealer (non-tinted) on my teak and I am unhappy, can I then put a Cetol like finish on it without having to remove the sealer.


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## RichH

Wouldnt do it. Most sealers are easily removed by chemical etch - the same 'cleaners' used on teak: caustics such as SodiumTriPhosphate-TSP, sodium Silicates, various 'hydroxides' ... or just plain 'sanding'.


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## Maverick1958

My boat is 36 years young. I don't have a monster crew for my little 22 foot boat and all of my wood with the exception of the companion way door is original. My bright work is bright and the rope work I did looks great. At 6 month intervals I steel wool (use stainless or pay the price) the finish and apply 2 light coats of spar varnish with a sponge brush. I takes the better part of a weekend but then 2 weekends a year to have bright shiny wood is worth the price for me.


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## omaho5

I keep my Cape Dory on a fresh water lake. It is in water for about 6 months
and out for 6.
We live in NH on Winnipessauke. The best finish that I get is with Helmsman
spar varnish "SATIN." I put several coats on, 4 or so. We used to put on a high gloss, but that showed the deterioraton too quickly.
As a retired painitng contractor, I do not mind doing touch up occasionally.
To strip any old varnish I use a combo of pro grade sand paper AND a "carbide" stripping tool available at Sherwin Williams. The carbides make stripping far easier than conventional strippers.


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## RichH

TropicCat said:


> Pardon me.... but since when does teak need U/V protection?


Answer ... when the cost of teak went over $50.00 per board foot, thats when.


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## CorvetteGuy

A two part teak cleaner finished with Amazon Gold teak oil brings out a nice rich colour 2 coats per season on lake Ontario keeps the teak on my 72 corvette looking and feeling great. Keep it natural \I always say.. And did you know a great way to remove old varnish is with a small peice of broken glass used as a scrapper,,,amazing


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## Beersmith

Why not Cetol? From my research it seems to hold up better than varnish, particularly in tropical environments; and re-application is as easy as a scotch-brite scrub and one coat to cover up. Plus, clean up is supposedly easy as cake. 

I was originally concerned with the "orange" look of it, but realized that there are other options such as using Cetol Natural Teak with a coat of Cetol Clear Gloss and you have a beautiful, almost varnish-like finish.


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## lancelot9898

Beersmith said:


> Why not Cetol? From my research it seems to hold up better than varnish, particularly in tropical environments; and re-application is as easy as a scotch-brite scrub and one coat to cover up. Plus, clean up is supposedly easy as cake.
> 
> I was originally concerned with the "orange" look of it, but realized that there are other options such as using Cetol Natural Teak with a coat of Cetol Clear Gloss and you have a beautiful, almost varnish-like finish.


Ditto that. I did find out that using the gloss helps preserves the coating whereas I orginally thought that the gloss was not as effective as the base natural coating.

I'm using Semco goldtone on the cockpit teak seats. I found that the cetol finish(even without the gloss) was a little too slick in wet weather. I orginally started with the semco natural but found that the goldtone gave a better appearance and seemed to last longer.


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## Minnewaska

lancelot9898 said:


> .........I found that the cetol finish(even without the gloss) was a little too slick in wet weather......


Agreed. The prior owner of my boat put cetol on the cockpit seats and sole. I'm sure it was to protect them from spills. But it is very slick, does not wear well under foot and microscopically flakes off on the edges, which keeps a constant supply of dust and dirt in the cockpit. I had it all stripped off.


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## JRA1968

As for me being an ex Garwood and C.C restorer my thoughts are if its a trailer queen then varnish it . If your looking for a nice look and super easy to maintain no fuss just rub on when you have 15 minutes (really not kidding) go to your local drug store and get mineral oil done. Oh yea good for polishing yout intestines too LOL. Try it out youd be suprized


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## Elkbanner

I tested an area with Semco Clear, but did not like the orange look. I have decided instead to use Semco Natural. There is another boat in my marina that has honeytone on it and it looks great. There was only one area with a build up of coats that did not look good. I can always move to honeytone next year if I want more pigment. Thanks for all the posts.


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