# Vinyl Striping vs. Painting?



## Kalina-Lona (May 31, 2012)

Hello,

On all white boat that needs colour, I would like to add a 6" colour stripe and then add the registration numbers on that. 
Can you buy striping that width and who would be a good supplier to purchase from?
Thanks in advance,


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## SkywalkerII (Feb 20, 2008)

I've bought tape from sign and lettering shops, but I think placing a 6 inch stripe is goingo be tough.

I suggest you paint it. I used one inch tape to designate he tope of the line. Use the blue stuff. You can manipulate it until you get it right, not so for the vinyl. Then, use a wide tape to "mark" where you are going o paint. Tape off the bottom. When you remove the middle wide tape, you have your area to paint...

This was easier for me than a wide vinyl boot I put on my old boat.

Skywalker
T27 249


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## garyguss (Oct 9, 2007)

I painted mine as well, used the Green frog tape, leaves a sharper line than the blue stuff, its been on for 4 years so far still looks fine


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## Mobnets (Apr 24, 2011)

I used vinyl striping to redo the cove stripes on my previous boat. wasn't all that easy to do even though it wasn't very wide. Looked OK, as long as you weren't looking too closely, but I was never totally satisfied with it and it starts deteriorating after a year or two. 

Since then I've lost my fear of painting on fiberglass hulls. Only way to go!


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## Barquito (Dec 5, 2007)

When the time comes, I would imagine it would be less work to sand and repaint a stripe, rather than scrape off the old vinyle stripe and re-apply. I would paint.


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

Kalina-Lona said:


> Hello,
> 
> On all white boat that needs colour, I would like to add a 6" colour stripe and then add the registration numbers on that.
> Can you buy striping that width and who would be a good supplier to purchase from?
> Thanks in advance,


Does that mean you scored the G28?


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

Use 3M mylar 'fine line' tape for precise painted lines. Be sure to remove any waxes or silicone from the gel to ensure no 'bleeding' under the tape, press down the tape 'several times' and with 'dwell time' between the 'pressing' to ensure that the tape 'seals'. "Fine Line" is expensive, but nothing can beat it for painting a precise line. When applying keep a consistent pressure on the 'roll' as varying pressure can slightly change the width dimension of the tape.

example: 3M 218 Fine Line Masking Tape


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## Sailormon6 (May 9, 2002)

RichH said:


> Use 3M mylar 'fine line' tape for precise painted lines. Be sure to remove any waxes or silicone from the gel to ensure no 'bleeding' under the tape, press down the tape 'several times' and with 'dwell time' between the 'pressing' to ensure that the tape 'seals'. "Fine Line" is expensive, but nothing can beat it for painting a precise line. When applying keep a consistent pressure on the 'roll' as varying pressure can slightly change the width dimension of the tape.
> 
> example: 3M 218 Fine Line Masking Tape


I also like 3M "fine line" tape very much, but, although it is expensive, never had to pay that much for it. I always bouight it from a local specialty store that supplies automotive paints and supplies to body shops.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Vinyl tape can do a nice job on a cove stripe. I saw a Whitby 42 get painted scarlet 2-part and then striped and lettered with 3M tape that looked like gold leaf. It was gorgeous. It was intended for marine use according to the owner - he got it from a shop that specialized in 3M commercial products. Vinyl striping lasts for years & years on cars and it can be removed with a special "eraser" wheel on a small grinder. These are available at tool stores that sell auto body stuff.

Tape doesn't work for boot tops though because their width has to vary, particularly around the stern, in order to "look" the same width all the way.


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## SchockT (May 21, 2012)

I did the name, stripes and licence number in vinyl after I got a new paint job, and it came out beautiful. If you go with high quality vinyl it will hold it's colour for years. My graphics are 5 years old and still look great. 

Rather than doing a single wide stripe that will be dificult to apply, you might consider a pair of narrower stripes in complementary colours. I did my boot stripe in vinyl also, and it looks fine.

The big advantage to using vinyl instead of paint is that it can be easily removed and redone. If the next owner doesnt like the name, it can be removed too. (although after years of sun it may leave a sharow.)
I have remnants of the rolls for my stripes, so if they get damaged I can easily peel the damaged section and replace it.


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

my ericson has a vinyl boot--working fine(10 yrs and counting)--my formosa has a painted one--the divers have worn off much of the green , so mine is a rasta boot stripe-matches my rasta rub rail....havent thought about which i like more-- to me doesnt really matter, as long as the boot is cleanish and no residue from water mung hangs on boat hull. i think for cruising on a low income, the painted rasta colored one is a better deal for me--so i dont look like richie rich....


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## CorvetteGuy (Jun 4, 2011)

I did the water line in a 2 1/2 inch vinyl on my C&C Corvette about 8 years ago and it still looks good from a far but up close its far from good, small cracks have appered over the years. I also did the name in vinyl blue first then the same letters in gold but smaller on top, looks great and has been there for 15 years.


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## Kalina-Lona (May 31, 2012)

SkywalkerII said:


> I've bought tape from sign and lettering shops, but I think placing a 6 inch stripe is goingo be tough.
> 
> I suggest you paint it. I used one inch tape to designate he tope of the line. Use the blue stuff. You can manipulate it until you get it right, not so for the vinyl. Then, use a wide tape to "mark" where you are going o paint. Tape off the bottom. When you remove the middle wide tape, you have your area to paint...
> 
> ...


Thanks...I thought vinyl could be tough, but wasn't sure if anyone else was able to do a nice job? What blue stuff are you referring to?

Cheers,


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

Since vinyl is one width, when you view the boat in profile, due to the multiple curve of the hull the boot stripe will not appear to be the same width from end to end. That is why some builders, and most professional paint shops, taper the line to give it a consistent appearance.

And getting that wide tape to bend over the full length is going to be a challenge. I'm in for the paint, but would definitely consider raising the water line at the same time.


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## SchockT (May 21, 2012)

This is what I did with vinyl on my boat. The metallic silver still looks good, and the blue has not yet faded significantly. It even stands up to fender abrasion when rafting without peeling off.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

Kalina-Lona said:


> What blue stuff are you referring to?Cheers,


Blue "long life" masking tape. It doesn't "cook" in place like regular tape and can be easily removed after several days.


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## US27inKS (Feb 6, 2005)

garyguss said:


> I painted mine as well, used the Green frog tape, leaves a sharper line than the blue stuff, its been on for 4 years so far still looks fine


Good suggestion, but go to an auto paint store and buy your tape. It's about twice the price of Frog, but well worth it. By no means use blue "painters tape". It's only good if you're painting a house. Make sure you press it down with a wall paper seam roller. If your paint crawls under your tape, you'll really hate it.

Another option is to buy the blue vinyl plastic tape from the auto paint store. It's made for taping off stripes before painting. I use 1/4 inch plastic tape to set the edge around all the non skid areas on my deck. Then just back tape the 1/4 inch stuff. Works like a charm, easy to manipulate, and no paint crawling under.

Here's a random paint store. You should have a local store that carries 3M 233 and 471.
http://www.billwrightspaintstore.com/tape.html


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## US27inKS (Feb 6, 2005)

SloopJonB said:


> Blue "long life" masking tape. It doesn't "cook" in place like regular tape and can be easily removed after several days.


Don't sweat a few extra days. You obviously don't want to leave it on for months, but if you get a little adhesive residue you can use 3M adhesive remover. Cheap and easy.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

US27inKS said:


> Don't sweat a few extra days. You obviously don't want to leave it on for months, but if you get a little adhesive residue you can use 3M adhesive remover. Cheap and easy.


I've been using a lot of 3M blue on my deck this summer and I found it was starting to deteriorate after 4 or 5 days - didn't cook on but it came apart when I peeled it up - wouldn't peel off in one strip.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I am a fan of using vinyl for a cove stripe. You can change colors more easily, if you get tired of it. Although, I never have.

I've always had a pro do it, but I've done my fair share of names and hailing ports. When applying those, you usually spray a mixture of dish soap and water on the hull so that you can move it slightly. I highly suspect you could have a cove strip made by one of the online graphics companies and apply it yourself. I do not believe the product could be very expensive, as having a pro do it wasn't a back breaker. In fact, I suspect buying the proper paint and supplies could actually be more expensive.

For the graphic lettering, they come with covering on both sides of the letters. You usually make a hinge with masking tape to put it all in place, lift it, spray the hull with soap mixture, remove the covering from the glue side, press it in place and then remove the covering from the top. You still get a few minutes to smooth out air bubbles and make small tweaks to alignment.

Because it comes pre-made and sandwiched inside the two covers, you could have two contrasting stripes made as well. I would also consider a design that broke up the length of the line, so that it is both easier to apply in shorter sections and easier to follow the curve of the hull. Breaking at port lights, or for your boat name are examples.

I also agree with the taper suggested above. Again, I suspect a graphics maker could help with that too.


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## SchockT (May 21, 2012)

I'm not clear on why people say the boot stripe needs to be tapered. I used a roll of vinyl tape, and it looks just fine.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

SchockT said:


> I'm not clear on why people say the boot stripe needs to be tapered. I used a roll of vinyl tape, and it looks just fine.


When it rolls under into the "pinch" at the stern of your boat, doesn't it look thinner when viewed from the side? The boot top on my quarter tonner had to be nearly twice as wide there as forward to look the same width. On my Columbia, with its tapering overhang it is nearly three times as wide there.


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## bobperry (Apr 29, 2011)

I agree with Tom.
I have designed boats with well laid out tapered bootstripes and I have done boats with just parallel line bootstrips. I don't think it matters. On mdern. contemprary looking designs the straight boot looks best.

What I do know is that if the boot is tapered with "spring" it makes it damn hard to use it as a reference for flotation measurements. Today I draw almost only straight line boots.

If you have a really traditional type boat, say like my old CT54 then a tapered boot with spring does look better but only slightly.

JonB:
The key with any bootstripe is to make sure that the vertical dimension is maintained, especially in the stern as the stripe goes under the counter. This means the actual stripe will have to get wider as it goes under the counter in order to maintain that constant vertical dimension. That can be tricky with tape. If the boot is a thin stripe this element is easier to deal with.


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

SchockT said:


> I'm not clear on why people say the boot stripe needs to be tapered. I used a roll of vinyl tape, and it looks just fine.


It boils down to personal taste and designer asthetics. Maybe Bob Perry can weigh in on this.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

bobperry said:


> JonB:
> The key with any bootstripe is to make sure that the vertical dimension is maintained, especially in the stern as the stripe goes under the counter. This means the actual stripe will have to get wider as it goes under the counter in order to maintain that constant vertical dimension. That can be tricky with tape. If the boot is a thin stripe this element is easier to deal with.


Exactly. I've never seen it done successfully with tape - it always looks thinner at the stern.


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## bobperry (Apr 29, 2011)

Rugger:
I think I just did.

Stripes on a hull can be critical. If you walk around a boat yard you are bound to see a poorly laid out bootstripe that dives down as it turns under the counter. The problem at the bow is not so noticable. But it is there. Once again, the vertical height must be maintained and that means the width of the strip must change. It must get wider as it approaches the transom. The exact amount it need to widen is controlled by the slope/deadrise of the section. If the boat has a very flat run the strip will need to be really wide. So a taped line cannot work. Unless the stripe is very thin and in most cases that would not look very good.

That said, if the stripe is high enough on the hull the topsides may be vertical enough so that you can get by with a tape width. But on a hull like, say amn Alberg 35 you MUST make the stripe wider as it wraps around the counter aft.


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## rugosa (Aug 30, 2011)

bobperry said:


> Rugger:
> I think I just did.QUOTE]
> 
> You got me by 4 minutes Bob, but you are there and I am here 3 hours ahead, so I must have been reading your thoughts.
> ...


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## bobperry (Apr 29, 2011)

Rugger:
I'll go walk my dogs and give you time to catch up.


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## US27inKS (Feb 6, 2005)

bobperry said:


> Rugger:
> I think I just did.
> 
> Stripes on a hull can be critical. If you walk around a boat yard you are bound to see a poorly laid out bootstripe that dives down as it turns under the counter. The problem at the bow is not so noticable. But it is there. Once again, the vertical height must be maintained and that means the width of the strip must change. It must get wider as it approaches the transom. The exact amount it need to widen is controlled by the slope/deadrise of the section. If the boat has a very flat run the strip will need to be really wide. So a taped line cannot work. Unless the stripe is very thin and in most cases that would not look very good.
> ...


And that is why these gizmos were invented.
Newegg.com - Bosch GLL2-10 Cross-Line Laser 30Ft US


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## Kalina-Lona (May 31, 2012)

rugosa said:


> Does that mean you scored the G28?


Yes, they have accepted my offer. I am having a survey completed and having the diesel mech. come and check the engine. I'd like to be able to start the Volvo Penta Model 2002 myself, I used the hand crank and it's not seized and started building up compression...so that's a good sign?

This boat has been on the hard for, well this is the third season. When the owners hauled out the last time, they winterized and just put things away like any other year. Some health? issues have made them not return and the marina is selling as abandoned. Other than dirty it's a real nice complete sailboat and looking forward to doing what's necessary to own our first sailboat. There is a lot of info. out there on the internet, the library, forums and everytime I go to the marina I meet new folks who seem interested in helping? Some things you wonder about and it seems nice to write forums and get good practical advice and answers.

Cheers,


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## Kalina-Lona (May 31, 2012)

RichH said:


> Use 3M mylar 'fine line' tape for precise painted lines. Be sure to remove any waxes or silicone from the gel to ensure no 'bleeding' under the tape, press down the tape 'several times' and with 'dwell time' between the 'pressing' to ensure that the tape 'seals'. "Fine Line" is expensive, but nothing can beat it for painting a precise line. When applying keep a consistent pressure on the 'roll' as varying pressure can slightly change the width dimension of the tape.
> 
> example: 3M 218 Fine Line Masking Tape


Thank you very much!


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

CorvetteGuy said:


> I did the water line in a 2 1/2 inch vinyl on my C&C Corvette about 8 years ago and it still looks good from a far but up close its far from good, small cracks have appered over the years. I also did the name in vinyl blue first then the same letters in gold but smaller on top, looks great and has been there for 15 years.


I know this was a long time back, I own a C&C 30 Mk1 with the -V- Shaped line just below the toe rail on the side you know the "C&C line". Anyway I was reading up on applying tape in this vee area. Is this what you did? If so, how long did it last and will you do it again?
Thanks for your help.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

On our boat the lower boot and cove stripes were painted with AwlCraft 2000. After it was done I decided it need a double boot. I used 3M tape, and found a perfect match in color to the Matterhorn White. The lower boot is tapered but the upper boot is not. It is not discernible. The top stripe is 3/4" and I really don't know how you'd get a 6" tape do conform and not have wrinkles and bubbles.

I cheated when applying ours. I used a 3/4" band of 3M Fine Line directly above & lining up perfectly with the top edge of the thick boot stripe. I then laid the white thinner boot to the 3M Fine Line the same as I did to the lower boot. It gave me the perfect lay over the entire distance. This takes practice but can be done I just don't know that it can easily be done with a 6" tape.

Our tape has held up very well but is not as durable as the AwlCraft 2000..


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