# BVI post hurricane review



## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Short answer, you should go. It’s outstanding. Easy sailing, great snorkeling and beaches, fun beach bars, all the same stuff. 

We skipped North Sound, as it seems to be the farthest behind in recovery. We stopped in Jost Van Dyke and went to both Soggy Dollar and Foxy’s, which are both as great as ever. Jost even has a small grocery two doors down from Foxy’s now! Expensive and sparse, but great to have, nevertheless. We also went to Foxy’s Taboo in Little harbor, Cooper Island, the Bath on Gorda and Peter Island to see the new Willy Ts. All great. Go!

We also spent some time in St John. Maho Bay has lost most of it’s palm trees, but we were suprised how much general foliage has grown back already. It’s only been about 16 months since the hurricanes. Cruz Bay was back in action, although, Customs and Immigration is in a temporary trailer. Get the new Roam App, if you’re a US citizen. I was ready, but my phone died on the trip and I had to clear in the old fashioned way.

One notable observation, which may be coincidence, was that we saw substantially more sea life than ever before. Lost count of the dozens of turtles. We also had dolphin and a shark off the boat, during a passage. When snorkeling, the reef fish seemed more numerous. Again, could be coincidence, but Mother Nature has a way of resetting the game. 

We’re still in the Caribbean for another week. Sorry to hear about all the snow and chill up north.


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## mbianka (Sep 19, 2014)

Thanks for the report. We are probably going to be doing our winter charter there next year. You can keep the beach bars but, the rebound of the sea life is real good news. Since we try an do snorkels several times a day.


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## jeremiahblatz3 (Jul 3, 2018)

Glad to hear that about the sea life! We did the BVIs in May (Sailboat Charter in the BVIs, May 2018) and most of the reefs we saw were scoured clean. (The Dogs looked particularly bad.) Decent fish, though.

We were just on a mostly-dive vacation on St Croix in December (http://jeremiahblatz.com/personal/pics/StCroix2018/), and it was _great_. Some damage on land, but the reefs were superb.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I can’t say I noticed reef damage. What did you see missing? Sea grasses, which perhaps have grown back already?


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

One thing I might add. I was last there in March 2017, just six months prior to the hurricanes. When we cleared customs and immigration this time on Jost Van Dyke, the total fees seemed about double what they were last time. Over $400. It’s also possible that our vessel tripped a higher fee schedule, being over 50ft. Previously, all vessels I’ve cleared in were under 50ft.

I had to wonder if they were trying to raise recovery funds or just discourage importing a vessel, over chartering locally. Either way, it’s become more than just rounding in the overall trip.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

In past always tried to clear in north sound. Smaller, friendlier and cheaper. If going back and forth it’s worth while to import the boat. Less hassle and cheaper.
This year skipped BVI. Went straight to Antigua. Seems a good decision as heading east has been difficult. Still would pick the English speaking islands over the French except for St.Martin. The French have been difficult at every turn. Almost seems they have an attitude toward Americans and non French speaking Canadians. We try to speak French and of course are polite but they just seem difficult on purpose.


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

French are haughty... but they French Islands are interesting so you put up with it.


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

Does anyone know if the Last Resort on Bellamy Cay made it back? One of the best restaurants and entertainment, especially if you are tired of loud reggae, in all the islands. I heard long before the storms that it was going to be swallowed up by a new runway, so this would be the perfect time for the government to oust them.


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

outbound said:


> over the French except for St.Martin. The French have been difficult at every turn. Almost seems they have an attitude toward Americans and non French speaking Canadians. We try to speak French and of course, are polite but they just seem difficult on purpose.


Wow, we have completely different takes on the French Islands, including St Maarten, which we avoid like the plague. 
I mean come on, you never have to see an official in the French Islands, clearing in is done 100% by computer, no passport stamps or a multitude of hand filled out forms and it costs a whopping 5 Euros! And the West Indians there (who actually sees a white European French person there outside of La Marin, the least appealing part of the island anyway) are as pleasant as any on any island.
The markets are stocked with the best basics like first cold pressed olive oil for 8 Euros a liter and wine, cheeses and so many other great items that we make a pilgrimage there every year to stock up on basics for our charter business. Long life milk is government subsidized there, so it's about 85 cents us a liter, instead of a couple of bucks in the British islands.
And restaurants? The very finest French cuisine to street side stands with Vietnamese dishes far more interesting and cheaper than the standard West Indian fare. I've had kangaroo and alligator tail there (not all that expensive) and there is absolutely the best sporting goods store I've seen anywhere in the world, in FdF!
Depending on the exchange rate, it can be cheap or a bit dear (but it was that way with the Franc back when), but the quality of *everything* there is excellent and an amazing amount of quality items are available on those islands that are just not available anywhere else in the Caribbean, even PR with its Home Depots and Walmarts filled with Chinese made crap.
I have never felt any prejudice from anyone there, often quite the opposite. When seeking internet on the boat an official very high up in the marine department gave us a password to his department's access point for free. On the other side of the [email protected] Pointe du Bout, the Hotel Bakoua, a 4 or 5-star hotel, gave us free access to their internet as well.
I guess to each his.her own, but we absolutely love Martinique and Guadeloupe.


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

capta said:


> bsolutely love Martinique and Guadeloupe.


Years ago I was blown away by the hyper-Market in Guadeloupe... the fresh baguettes on the French Islands.

I loved the French Islands when I lived down there in the 90s.


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

SanderO said:


> Years ago I was blown away by the hyper-Market in Guadeloupe... the fresh baguettes on the French Islands.
> 
> I loved the French Islands when I lived down there in the 90s.


OMG! I forgot to mention the baguettes! Yes, you are so right!


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## jeremiahblatz3 (Jul 3, 2018)

I don't have anything "before" experience to compare it to, but there was a conspicuous absence of any branching (e.g. staghorn) or soft coral except in the most protected areas. There was low-lying rocky coral in some of the depressions in exposed areas. Again, no prior experience with the BVIs but it really looks like someone had taken a giant scotch-brite pad and wiped down the underwater areas.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Did like the free WiFi in the saints at the moorings. The islands themselves are glorious. The food both in supmarkets and restaurants is excellent. Service is at them is great. . With eclear and the computers clearing is easy. But go into a hardware store or pharmacy or try to get a part or advice on anything boat related it’s just difficult. 
Also like the cruising community. It feels very different as due to the near absence of charter boats there’s much less boating services outside places where the mega yachts congregate. 
Still, on cubrit a local watched while his dog tore the face off a goat. A fellow cruiser pulled the dog off and the goat ran. The local French man laughed at him as his spoke about controlling his dog. A elderly lady tourist get struck by a local on a scooter. She fell to the ground. He stopped looked at her shrugged and scooted off. An ambulance came and took her off. Before that people just walked around her. 
Yes, I understand in NYC a large collection of people watched out their windows as a women was fatally stabbed. Still, I saw multiple acts of kindness in the prior English, Spanish and American islands but not in the French. Perhaps it will change as I become more facile in dealing with the locals here but initial impression is skip Guadalupe except for the Saints and Marie Gallant.


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## jvlassak (Oct 1, 2009)

capta said:


> Does anyone know if the Last Resort on Bellamy Cay made it back? One of the best restaurants and entertainment, especially if you are tired of loud reggae, in all the islands. I heard long before the storms that it was going to be swallowed up by a new runway, so this would be the perfect time for the government to oust them.


We were there end of December. Nothing there anymore unfortunately.


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## Zahabiya01 (Jan 21, 2019)

You should definitely go. It's amazing. Its been 16 months since hurricanes and Cruz Bay was back in action.


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## Dog8It (Jan 2, 2007)

Just got back from chartering in the BVI's after a five year hiatus. Shoreside recovery is amazing, with a few exceptions (Bitter End, Peter Island, and a few others). However, underwater recovery will clearly take much longer. In most popular snorkeling sites (Caves, Indians, Baths) the coral, in the shallow areas especially, is gone for the most part. Sea life is still there but most of the coral is "scrubbed clean." I have compared photos from 2013 (our last charter there) and there is no question as to the change. Hopefully, the mother Nature can bounce back quickly. Anegada, on the other hand, is untouched. 

All and all, I am glad we went. People are as friendly and nice as it can get, recovery is clearly on the way, and the island spirit & magic is stronger than ever.


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