# FRP panels from home depot in marine applications?



## jgsteven (Jan 27, 2009)

Hello,

I am replacing some of the interior paneling (currently a 1/8 in thick painted wood paneling covering the fiberglass in the salon and v-berth ceiling) in my boat.

When I was looking for replacement paneling, I found that home depot sells some white FRP panels, which would likely be more durable than the painted wood panels they replaced (and appear to resist mildew, not need painting, etc).


My questions are:
1.) Does anyone have experience with using interior FRP paneling in a boat?
2.) Where an adhesive is needed, is there a better option than 3m 5200? (which claims to bond everything but Polyethelene and Polypropolene pretty well -- which means it should do FRP paneling just fine, right??)

Thanks,

--
Joe


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## modul8 (Oct 26, 2008)

_'m _having trouble finding the panels at the home depot website. Got a link?


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## jgsteven (Jan 27, 2009)

*panel link*



modul8 said:


> _'m _having trouble finding the panels at the home depot website. Got a link?


Hmm, I couldn't find it at the home depot website either (but they have them in the store!). Its exactly like this:

Structoglas and Structodecor Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic Panel (F.R.P.) - Deerso.com

--
Joe


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## Deadeye (Jan 8, 2009)

5200 is great for a glass to glass adhesive, so long as you're looking for a permanent bond (same goes for Sikaflex)d. If you want to be able to remove the liner contact cement, silicone caulk, or heavy duty velcro might be a better option.

I haven't seen those FRP panels, but I don't have a big store anywhere near me. I assume they're the gelcoat and mat/resin panels for tub surrounds ?
EDIT: simultaneous post...

Do you feel confident enough to lay up your own panels ? Flat panels are pretty straightforward.


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## AllThumbs (Jul 12, 2008)

I have seen that stuff. The PO of my 16' dingy used it for the floor of the cockpit (glued over the existing floor). I see no reason it would not work in a boat for the ceiling. I wouldn't use 5200 unless you NEVER want to remove it.


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## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

I plan on using this type of panel inside my freezer after adding extra insulation.

But for the interior of the salon? Gloss white? Why not Formica? Pretty common on the 'herschoff' designed interiors. You can have only about a thousand colors to choose from, most with satin finish.


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## btrayfors (Aug 25, 2006)

I used some of that paneling a couple of years ago to replace the locker tops and backs in the galley (the thin teak veneer had been water damaged over the years and needed replacement). 

It was easy to work with, looks really good, brightened up the lockers, and seems to work just fine.

Bill


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I wouldn't use 5200. I would highly recommend adding furring strips to the boat's interior and using screws to hold the FRP panels in place.


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## jgsteven (Jan 27, 2009)

Deadeye said:


> Do you feel confident enough to lay up your own panels ? Flat panels are pretty straightforward.


No - I really didn't want to do it myself, because of time and space concerns. Thats why the FRP home depot was selling was attractive.

I am only using white for the ceiling to reflect more light and keep the boat from being dark. The walls and bulkheads are going to be painted.

--
Joe


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## jgsteven (Jan 27, 2009)

sailingdog said:


> I wouldn't use 5200. I would highly recommend adding furring strips to the boat's interior and using screws to hold the FRP panels in place.


By furring strip, do you mean epoxying a strip of board to the boat to screw the panels into?


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## AllThumbs (Jul 12, 2008)

That is what he means, yes.


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## gtod25 (Aug 5, 2000)

*I've used FRP panels to line lockers...*

It works well but might be a bit shiny (reflective) for overhead panels.


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## merc2dogs (Jun 5, 2004)

Was starting to get the idea that I was the only one who was willing to use 'non-marine' products!

I've actually used that stuff as non-skid, held up very well. They make several different types of those panels, from a very aggressive diamond pattern to a smoother pebble finish than shown in the link. 

On a recore, I layed several layers of cloth, then scuffed the bottom of the panel and cut it out to the shape I wanted the non-skid to be then bonded it with resin, I used thickened epoxy aroung the edge to make a smooth transition. 

Need to recore a couple sections of the deck on my Ariel, debating that again, or another off-the-wall idea I have.

It IS fiberglass, so any way you would normally bond glass will work. It curves easily, but does NOT make compound curves.

Ken.


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## artbyjody (Jan 4, 2008)

If you do not want the high gloss finish - do a wet sand on the surface with a high grit and spray a *matte* or* flat* enamel finish over it. Or, spray the surface with a light covering of the "Frosted Glass" spray in a can. Either will take care of the high gloss without having to prime and paint them....


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

At $55 a pop, it seems pretty pricey to me, and difficult to install. Plywood would be MUCH cheaper, even if you have to paint it, and will hold up (at least it has on our boat) for about 25 years. Another option, if it's just for headliner: why not use some sort of cloth, and staple or glue it. K.I.S.S.


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## scottyt (Jul 19, 2008)

the panels at home depot are about 30 bucks by me, i wind up using them alot doing house renovations. i dont think they would be much use on a boat, as the surface texture makes them kind of hard to clean. i would not use them in an ice box, because of cleaning reasons. for the inside of cabinets they might be fine. for a head liner i dont think they would do to well, because as stated they wont do compound curves. i would think cedar tongue and grove planks would do better, just paint them once they are in, to brighten up the saloon some


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## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

I used some of this on a boat. It goes on sale for about $2.50 a sq ft. It is very nice stuff.

Lumber Liquidators: 3/8" x 3" Golden Teak Flooring


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## nereussailor (Nov 3, 2007)

*Frp*

I built a commercial walk in cooler out of the stuff in 1995. in 2007 I sold the place and the cooler was still intact and in great shape. I used regular liquid nails in a tube to glue it to the OSB panels. I would use 4200 or life caulk if I was using it in a boat. The hardest part would be getting it to stay in place while the adhesive dries. they do make a plastic rivet to hold it down. but it makes cleaning it a little harder. Other than that, It cleans super easy with any soap and water and will last a long time. It would be great in the head/ shower combination. Clean-up would be a snap. Wipe and go.

Dave


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## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

scottyt
I think we may be looking at differetn panels. The ones I saw at Lowes were a soft pebble on one side and smooth on the other. Not an agressive tread pattern.

No comments on using Formica? A slight off-white with a matte finish is going to be much more pleasing to the eye, unless you like living in an exam room.


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## geraldartman (Apr 9, 2007)

How much trouble to bend 3/8's teak T&G?
I agree on the battens. leaves a chase for wiring and insulation like reflectix.
I wouldn't mind SS screw and washers for access, replacement.
With battens and screws if you don't like it, change is easy to something else.

I think cork is attractive also, comes in colors and has a nice pattern.
Plus it floats 

I can't believe that something NSF approved is hard to clean. By definition, it would be non-absorbent and easy to clean.


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## WesterlyPageant (Aug 29, 2008)

I'm just finishing up this project now:
Winterhawk Restoration

Using battens is great for the insulation and wiring. Home depot has been good to me so far. Keeping them of a manageable size is important. Making kefr cuts helps it bend.

One product I think could be neat, and cheap is the same material they make the political yard signs out of. Some sort of PVC material. It's super light weight and cheap and around $20 for a 4x8 sheet. They have it at our local lumber yards, not sure about home depot.

If I had more of a race boat I think I would have tried that. If it fails is some way, then I can use them as patterns for the new material and you're only out $80.


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## scottyt (Jul 19, 2008)

xort i do mean the pebble stuff, it is easy enough to clean at first but let it go a few times and it gets harder to get between the pebbles. go look in a few restaurants and you will see it gets harder to keep clean. but i do think formica would do well.

gerald you would not want to try the 3/8 stuff the cedar stuff is closer to 1/4 and the T and G gives it some easy curve. but once again compound curves are the hard part you would need to break up the ceiling in to straight sections


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## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

scotty

I was thinking of putting the pebbly side facing the insulation so I would have the smooth side to clean. Looks like this confirms that I should

Thanks


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## sww914 (Oct 25, 2008)

I would scuff up the shiny stuff on the glue side to help it adhere and clean it really well with wax, grease, and silicone remover to remove whatever mold release compound that they used. I'd probably hit it with 220 grit on an orbital sander, 180, 240, something like that.


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

Not sure I would use the formica or not. But sounds similar to my ceiling, but it was a vinyl glued and stapled to a 3/16" plywood.

When I redid my interior, where their was on the curved hull a foam backed vinyl, I did a similar option. On some places under the deck where there were deck fittings, and it was flat, I took some door paneling, bought at HD no less, and then used the same non foam back vinyl and contact cemented the finished side, with about an inch overlap to the back side, stapled, and then screwed up the panels. The screws I covered with a screw cap that come in about 4 colors IIRC from WM, a brown, black, white and a tan? or maybe it is just the three colors.

Probably a bit more expensive than the formica panels, but IMHO, probably a nicer finish. You can get a number of colors in vinyl.

A link to the how I did the aft cabin, and at the bottom is a link to the head area.
Headlining Replacement

Marty


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

I used a polyurethane construction adhesive to glue up the firring strips. Then screwed tongue in groove vinyl panelling from Home Depot. Teak strips held them in place and covered the screws. I thought it looked very nautical.


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## DwayneSpeer (Oct 12, 2003)

*New headliner*

An owner of one of my sisterships recently upgraded their headliner using formica. It looks great. Perhaps you would consider that. See a photo of it here http://www.sailnet.com/photogallery/showphoto.php/photo/5763/cat/500/ppuser/10031


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

I'd be afraid of panelling over furring strips on a boat. It isn't a house! The odds are that moisture will be trapped back there, and mold and mildew will follow, and then it will be almost impossible to access and clean without dismantling. Or, carefully designing it with ventilation in mind and then crossing your fingers.

I'd rather use a conventional mastic from a tub and bonding the panelling down with no place for mildew to grow. Or, white strips with no sheets bonded over them, similar to the traditional varnished or painted ones used on boats to ensure there's ventilation to the hull.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

That job looks quite nice. 


DwayneSpeer said:


> An owner of one of my sisterships recently upgraded their headliner using formica. It looks great. Perhaps you would consider that. See a photo of it here http://www.sailnet.com/photogallery/showphoto.php/photo/5763/cat/500/ppuser/10031


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## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

*FRP Panels*

FRP panels are often used in coolers, commercial bathrooms and commercial kitchens. Call these guys D.W. Ross Company - Freezer, Cooler, Hardwoods, Windows, Doors and Much More. to see about getting frp prelaminated to plywood, foam core, or other substrates. The laminated panels are the way to go. These guys laminate their own panels. Ask for Danny. I have no connection with these guys other than I bought some FRP panels for another use once.


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## WesterlyPageant (Aug 29, 2008)

jbondy said:


> I used a polyurethane construction adhesive to glue up the firring strips. Then screwed tongue in groove vinyl panelling from Home Depot. Teak strips held them in place and covered the screws. I thought it looked very nautical.


Are those panels really vinyl or some sort of pressed board?


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## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

Those FRP panels are great! I've used them many places in my boat. They even hold up outside quite well. I used them on the outside of my propane locker I built about 12 years ago. They are holding up just fine.

If you're not familiar with them, walk into the bathroom of your local McDonald's Burger joint - that's what's on the wall. You can get them at Home Depot for about $28. for a 4' x 8' sheet. They're about 1/8" thick and bendy enough to take most compound curves you will find on the inside of a boat.

I have used them on the inside of my boat also. Here's a link to the "How to" I have on my Frugal Mariner web-site. Just look at that page though - in some of the rest of it you may be encouraged to buy stuff. (I'm not selling the stuff - just affiliate sales - so you moderators can decide if I've crossed the "no advertising" policy line. If I have, I'm sorry, delete my post and I won't do it again.)

The Frugal Mariner: Advice for the cash-starved boater -- Insulating your boat


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## xort (Aug 4, 2006)

I'll just go to micky D's and tear some off the wall for my refer!


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## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

> I'll just go to micky D's and tear some off the wall for my refer!


_Would you like fries with that?_


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

News flash-Local sailor arrested for vandalizing local fast food restaurant restrooms.



xort said:


> I'll just go to micky D's and tear some off the wall for my refer!


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## jbondy (Mar 28, 2001)

WesterlyPageant said:


> Are those panels really vinyl or some sort of pressed board?


They're 1/4" thick, solid vinyl tongue and groove, 7"w by 48"l. They were positioning them to be used for wainscoating in bathrooms. Definitely suitable for a damp environment, although the ceiling is usually quite dry.


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## Angelgal918 (Feb 2, 2009)

Saw the FRP panels today at HD-they've gone up to $32/. 

Found myself more attracted to the "Thrifty White Board"- like its texture (and its price- 1/3 of FRP) better. Does the backside hold up on moisture? Is it something that could be sealed? 

I plan to be able to take off the panels relatively easily (maybe) but I'd like to know how it would handle a humid/ temp changing environment.


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## WesterlyPageant (Aug 29, 2008)

Afet 4 years all is well here. I coated the back in West epoxy. 
I lived aboard for a couple years, cooking creates a lot of moisture, no problems.


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## docfmiles (May 30, 2012)

*Furring strips?*

I'd think that the addition of a "furring" strip could cause real problems in the marine environment. Condensation in colder climates, poor fits with flexing and a myriad of other problems. Look before leaping, but leap when you must.


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