# Manual Anchor Windlass



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Last May we had a discussion on the message board regarding the installation of an electric powered windlass on my Cal 31 and other like vessels. We ended up sailing the Cal 31, in question, from Bellingham WA to Seward Alaska in early July, using the son-in-law as the windlass. This was a great voyage, however the son-in-law has returned home, and now it is my wife and I who serve as the windlass. Our main anchor is a Bruce with 50'' of chain. We often anchor in 60 to 90 feet of water so this is quite a bit of work. I have thought about reducing the chain to 25''.

Attention Jeff.
Jeff, you noted at the time that you were considering a manual windlass on your 38 footer. This is the way we have decided that we want to go. Reasons: No battery power concerns. Reliable. Yes slow, but we are seldom in a hurry to get off an anchorage. In a blow, I would bet that we could give the electric some serious competition. Anyway, can mount on deck above forepeak without impinging on quarters below. Let me say it again. Reliable, not dependant on battery.

The one we are looking at is the Simpson Lawrence Manual Anchorman 1000g Windlass w/ gypsy for boats to 40 feet. The price today is only 529.00 without accessories. I hear that Simpson Lawrence was bought out by Lewmar. Hope this does not confuse things.

We intend to mount the windlass on deck rather than in the chain locker.

Jeff, I don''t know what you decided, but we decided we are already too dependent on electric power for too many things.

RC


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## jack_patricia (May 20, 2001)

R:

PMFJI but here are a few comments I think you should consider:
1. You seem to be using your boat in a variety of cruising settings and not always where the weather is benign. The last thing you want to do is shorten the chain section of your rode, which not only offers a small amount of catenary (50'' of 5/16" HT only weighs about 40# in the water) but reduces bottom chafe, something you would see in your waters.
2. Lewmar did buy out the defunct S-L assets but invested heavily in moderizing their factory in Scotland. I don''t think the acquisition should affect your product consideration.
3. Having said that, the Anchorman is not IMO a great cruising windlass. The total rode/anchor weight in deep water that you''ll be raising is less than 100# but the problem comes when breaking it out gets tough, ungrounding the boat, hoisting a snagged underway cable, dealing with surge & wind chop, etc. Not only is the power limited (5.5:1 is a smaller power ratio than most mainsail reefing winches...) but you''ll find the ergonomics of developing all its claimed power will force you into positioning your body such that only a partial throw of the winch handle will be comfortable without putting various ligaments & muscle at risk. At a little over 1'' per revolution, trying to bring aboard the rode in 60''+ of water in a heavy wind alone will tax you to the limit, I would think.
4. I chose a manual windlass for the same reasons you did; I surely don''t think you need to justify your logic. But a Royal, Hyspeed, etc. horizontal, while not as streamlined or spiffy looking on the bow, will allow you to plant your feet, use your weight to advantage, and develop a much larger power ratio in the bargain. Moreover, you can increase the length of the windlass lever, offering you even greater leverage. OTOH having a longer winch handle welded up for the Anchorman will increase the challenge of swinging a full revolution uninterrupted while bracing your body. Of course, when the wind''s down, there''s little chop & surge in the anchorage, etc. the Anchorman will be easily used.
5. Definitely don''t hide the windlass in the locker. OTOH think about how you''re going to protect that windlass from the elements offshore or even in lousy coastal conditions.
6. Don''t overlook with fresh eyes that anchor roller arrangement. Adding any kind of windlass, with no offense meant to your son-in-law, is going to deliver a large increase in cantilevered strain on whatever is holding the roller to the deck. Best to check the roller platform structure and how it''s attached with this increased force in mind.

Good luck with the project; you''ll marvel at the improvement it makes to cruising, as you no doubt can imagine. The biggest disadvantage I can see to choosing a manual windlass is the lapsed wide variety of choices available in the marketplace.

Jack
WHOOSH, a Pearson 424


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

I basically agree with Jacks accessment almost 100%. (I am not sure that I wouldn''t cut back on the chain to perhaps 30 feet on your 30 footer) 

Although my boat is 38 feet, our boats are about the same displacement. I carry roughly 40 feet of 5/16 chain with a 22 lb Danforth. After using the anchor for a summer I have decided not to add a windlass at least not for the moment. 

Over the course of the summer I have developed a method to haul out the anchor in a pretty wide range of conditions that works pretty well. I basically work my way up on the anchor until the rode is vertical and cleated off tight. After a few minutes in that position I back out away from the rode. streaming the anchor and rode forward of the bow. I continue to back until I have searoom and I am backing downwind. It is only at that point that I recover the anchor. Its a pretty easy manuever single-handed and even easier with crew. 

Jack''s point about the bow roller is a good one. I am thinking of extending the bow roller channel further outboard to allow me to simply haul up the anchor to the roller without banging up the bow of the boat.

Jeff


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## geohan (Mar 8, 2000)

Rclampitt:
On our 30ft, 9700# Mercator sloop we are very satisfied with the Simpson-Lawrence Anchorman windlass. It is model #0044100, vertical axis, with a #160 gypsy and a top mounted warping drum. The 1/2in.,3-strand nylon rode is spliced directly to 30ft of 5/16in proof coil chain which is in turn shackled to a 22# Bruce. The gypsy has a rope groove to grip the nylon rode but has to be "tailed" to prevent slippage. The splice will render thru the gypsy even under load. The chain is only 30ft long to reduce weight in the bow and yet importantly allows the chain to engage the gypsy before the anchor breaks out in 95% of our anchorages on Puget Sound. Once the chain is engaged no more hand tailing is required due to its 180-degree wrap and its weight of a 14in drop into the chain locker. The nylon rode naturally self-coils clockwise around a vertical 2ft length of 8in PVC pipe located directly under the deck pipe. The 8-10ins between the top of the PVC and the underside of the deck facilitates the coiling of the nylon rode. The chain portion is fed into the PVC pipe which keeps it from fouling itself and which always runs out freely. The mechanical advantage is only about 5:1 but is enough to break out the well set Bruce in most cases without using the engine. Occasional fresh water rinses and a bit of grease keeps it functioning well. 
Cheers, George


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Thanks Guys,

I am checking out the Lofrans Royal Manual Windlass w/capstan, horizontal dbl. action.

Jeff, I have a friend who also uses his boat as the windlass. He has a heavy stainless steel ring, 6-7 inches in diam., with about a one inch opening in the ring with two small loops in each end,through which a shackle can be placed to close the ring. He brings his anchor line aft to a stern cleat, places the anchor line in the ring and closes off with the shackle. He than lashes two or three fenders to the shackle and throws fenders, ring and line over the side and than starts motoring forward down the line The fenders act as drag and first the rope line and than the chain pass though the ring until the anchor is also brought up to the fenders. 
He than drags all the above aboard and stows it. He tells me he has used this trick in 120 plus feet of water, however I''ve never seen him do it. We may cruise Kodiak Island together this summer, and I will get a chance to see how this rig works.


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