# Old yanmar panel please help!



## Jettest (Dec 26, 2012)

Hey all,

On my newly purchased '74 Ericson E-32, there is a (estimating 20 year old) Yanmar 20HP diesel installed. The engine panel is the simple kind with a keyed master sw, a push button start, a few idiot lights and buzzer, a chrome pull knob to cut the engine, and a multi-pin connection out of the panel (nothing is hooked up to it). There is no Tach.

One of my first projects on "runaway" is to build and install a custom panel to replace this weathered, broken, simple panel. I'd really like to have a tach and temp gauge. I'll also put in a new keyed master and new start button.

My assumption is that this unused multi pin connection is carrying tach data and perhaps temp data as well? Does anyone know what this connection is for or what it is?

Also, any suggestions on the project in general? 

I'm thinking I'd like to buy a blank metal panel (maybe with a plastic transparent cover) and frame it with teak, and then affix the teak frame with panel to the boat. 

Thanks!


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

A couple of earlier threads that may help:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/93625-custom-engine-panel-design.html

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/94478-yanmar-control-panel-upgrade.html


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## Jettest (Dec 26, 2012)

Thanks, yeah I read the 2nd one already and there's some good info on the first one, but in still trying to solve the mystery of that pinned connection. Not sure what it is! Sorry it's probably a stupid question but this is my first boat and I know little about yanmar panels (or boat engine instrumentation in general)


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## aa3jy (Jul 23, 2006)

Sounds like the Panel A version..panel B version has the tach. You have the workshop manual for the Yanmar engine that you have? If not well worth the investment. Might be able to pick up slightly used panel on eBay and work you 'magic' with that.. Our panel..probably 22years old..is recessed into a covered panel..but that was how the boat was manufactured.

Where in "Philly" you reside?

Clay AA3JY
s/v 'Tango'
CR34


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## Jettest (Dec 26, 2012)

Cherry hill NJ actually... But the boat is my home away from home in Clearwater FL (commuting airline pilot)!

Thanks yeah I've got the manuals and I'm goin to head over to a marine supply place here in FL today to pick their brains.


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

The bottom line is 'it depends'. 
First, get the exact model number of the engine, then download the operator and the installation manual if you don't have them already. 
Then trace the multi-pin back to where it connects on the engine. 
Diesel builders use two different kinds of 'senders' on the engines - switch and sensors, and tach's work of either a flywheel count or a alternator RPM count.

Switches only 'flip' when they sense a threshold has been crossed and send a signal to an alarm - sensors can actually tell what the (for example) temp or pressure is. 
Generally you can tell which is installed on your engine by how they are hooked up - or looking at the parts manual and comparing to your engine to see what you have. 
Senors have different part numbers than switches, and connect at different places. 
As to the Tach - 
Most Yanny's go with the flywheel type, and for that you need to know the model of the engine so you know how many teeth are on the wheel.

Sorry, really can't get specific with out er, specifics. There's a lot of Yanny 20's out there. If you don't have a manual try Sagaforumet - they have them.
If you go to http://sagaforumet.com/yanmar-manual/4JHE/manual.pdf
you can see on page 2-28 that my flywheel has 127 teeth. 
That's pretty common - I 'm able to use a Faria tach for mine (this one - Faria Chesapeake White SS Tach 4000 Diesel, Mag Pickup*-*Faria* 33818 - Faria Chesapeake SS White - Faria Instruments - Marine Instruments - Boatersland Marine).

It's out there, just takes a lot of research, or a lot of returned parts.


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## Jettest (Dec 26, 2012)

Ok, so I just got back to the boat and had a better look...

My engine is a 2GM20F

The panel is a B type panel with no tach in the hole where the tach should go. And it looks like the the round 8 pin connector was a homemade addition (shoddily done) in the tach hole. The connector says "standard" on it and has 7 pins in a circle and one in the center of it.


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

The shoddy part may or may not be a previous owner, it might also be the installer. 
'Round 8 pin' - is how I'd describe the yanmar installed plug.

Your Flywheel has 97 teeth per the manual another forum's postings- so you can use any Tach that can be set to or adjusted to the 97 teeth range. 
I can't verify that - can't find the tech specs on line.

Do make sure you get a tach that works in the 1-4000 rpm range (like the one I linked to). 
The only wiring diagram I've found online and readable is this one:
http://j30.us/files/yanmar-manual.pdf = page 58. 
Type B panels 'should' have a tach. The rest is just switches so you'll need the appropriate sensors for that (you can buy OEM, make sure the thread and pitch is right).

I'm not a mechanic, just love a puzzle. Search around for diesel forums (as opposed to sailnet diesel forums) - same engine, same parts, same problems.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

chucklesR said:


> The shoddy part may or may not be a previous owner, it might also be the installer.
> 'Round 8 pin' - is how I'd describe the yanmar installed plug.
> 
> Your Flywheel has 97 teeth per the manual another forum's postings- so you can use any Tach that can be set to or adjusted to the 97 teeth range.
> ...


Good advice. Also call Mac Boring if you get stuck. Thats where many of the distribtrutors get the panles from. We had to replace a 3GMF Yanmar "B" panel as ours was fusaed from a lightening strike and it came with a RPM gauage. But all engine sizes as Chuckles said are different.

dave


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

If you end up with a replacement Yanmar panel you might want to remount the fuel shutoff to something more solid, like fiberglass. The plastic bezel on my key switch had failed and the panel had cracked where the fuel shutoff was mounted. It was 22 yrs old and looked like 40--and it was behind a hinged plexiglass door!


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## Jettest (Dec 26, 2012)

Thanks for all the advice! 

The fuel shutoff is the only solid thing on the panel actually as it looks like its been replaced with a chrome pull recently..

So, I chatted up a mechanic over at a marine engine parts store today and it turns out that 8-pin connector is from some ancient nav device long removed. Probably a loran c or something. He says that since it is a modified, albeit poorly modified, B panel it likely still has the tach leads on the flywheel because it once probably had a tach.. I'll check. He also told me that in order to put an eng temp gauge on it I'd need to "tap the block" F that! An idiot light it shall remain!

I'd really like to put a non-yanmar tach on it, maybe a larger sized bezel because it's kinda far from the helm/throttle. I'd assume I probably can't use the yanmar sensor with a 3rd part tach though... Is it fairly straight forward to install an alternator lead and alternator type sending unit? Is there a downside to doing that?

Also I'm definitely not going to buy a replacement yanmar panel. It's plasticky and not real durable IMO. I'm thinking I'm going to order a custom aluminum powder coated panel built to spec from frontpanelexpress.com

Seems they have a pretty cool little business going! I'd like to probably create/order a panel (complete with engraved lettering) and then mount it to a square teak frame. Then I'll mount that frame to the place where the old panel resides.


I'll post a photo when complete. Anyhow 3rd party tach suggestions? Comments about alternator lead method? Or maybe fitting a 3rd party flywheel sensor in the old Yanmar sender's hole?

Thanks!


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## floridajaxsailor (Aug 4, 2010)

*.*

been reading the thread but been busy 
I think I have the exact same panel amigo! by the way what was the cost a rough cost of the aluminum replacement front panel Express because I have been thinking about replacing mine- on the wish list...
I have all the exact same connectors including that kill pull switch

Another great tip for you: Mastry's engine in St Pete- Brent is a fantastic resource & a Yanmar dealer
- JD


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Check out vetus products...they can be had on sale cheaper. Quality is excellant
\\

vetus engine panels - Google Search


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## Jettest (Dec 26, 2012)

Jax - thanks...

With Panel express, you download their free software and design your own custom panel. I just started messing around with it. There's a "price order" feature that you can check repeatedly throughout the designing process. From what I can tell, it's probably going to cost between 120-200 bucks for an 3MM thick aluminum panel. Real basic could be under 100.

I'll try that guy you suggested


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## Jettest (Dec 26, 2012)

Anyone know if the "idiot lights" are interchangeable with any standard 12v indicator light? I'd like to put new ones in my new panel.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

I would go with gauges if at all possible and perhaps some IDIOT BUZZERS but you may need to add some switches to the motor 

You would need a sender for each gauge and a switch for each idiot function you want such as overheating and low oil pressure 

The buzzers are nice as each time you start the motor they BUZZ until it gets oil pressure so you knwo it is working


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

You don't need to tap the block to add oil pressure, you simply need to order and install the oil pressure sensor. 
Sometimes mechanics who "know" are your worse enemy.
Read:
2GM20F Oil Pressure and Temp Sending Units - Cruisers & Sailing Forums


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

The Yanmar panel is plastic but clearly lasts a decade or longer of regular use. I just bought a replacement for the panel not the lights or instruments) for $25. That seems reasonable since it is replacing one that is 27 years old.

I have my own CNC milling machine and could have fairly easily made a custom aluminum panel. I found it a better use of my time to just get the Yanmar one. I'll use this as an excuse to lube the shutoff cable too since pressure from that is what broke the original panel. I may also beef up the shutoff cable mount with a large backing plate.


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## Plumbean (Dec 17, 2009)

Alex W said:


> The Yanmar panel is plastic but clearly lasts a decade or longer of regular use. I just bought a replacement for the panel not the lights or instruments) for $25. That seems reasonable since it is replacing one that is 27 years old...


Perhaps you got lucky. My type B panel was brand new for the start of the 2009 season, and by mid-2011 it was completely shot. The graphics are stickered on, and the UV damage completely destroyed them in no time. The replacement is sitting on my workbench and cost a lot more than $25 (can't remember exactly, but it was more like $85) and that is just for the plastic panel with the graphics (no instruments). I've bought a custom UV panel to bolt over it (from these folks: Rain shields for portholes & engine panels ~ Seaworthy Goods) so hopefully that will help with the longevity. Overall, I'm happy with my Yanmar, but this, and the fact that the panel only has idiot lights, are my two complaints.


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

Alex W said:


> I'll use this as an excuse to lube the shutoff cable too since pressure from that is what broke the original panel. I may also beef up the shutoff cable mount with a large backing plate.


I eventually replaced my shutoff cable, after trying the lube approach and it was well-worth the minimal expense, as it was a major improvement. I also replaced my 22 yr old panel with a Yanmar panel but I mounted the shutoff in the fiberglass next to the panel at the suggestion of my diesel mechanic. I didn't see any decent way to backup the plastic panel and this solves that problem once and for all.


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