# Painting Boat Interior



## DaveXSquid

I need advice on painting the interior of a boat. I've got a 1971 Perason 30 and it's time the interior was redone. I'd like to use 2 different colors and I'd like neither to be glossy like you would find top side. 
1) Ever painted the inside of a boat? Any tips?
2) What product(s) did you use?
3) There are wooden deck plated under the vbirth and other places. Must I use different paint on those wood surfaces that the fiberglas (i guess it's all fiberglas on the inside)?

Be super cool and give me some advice!


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## landlockvasailor

The first boat that I painted was in 1982, a Westerly Cirus. At that time the magazine Sailing had a eleven page article on the process. Since that time, I have not seen any other explanation that was so simply and could be followed. Since then I am now on my fourth refit. The paints are all about the same, but it is the prep. Follow the directions to the tee, do not take any short cuts. Have plenty of cheesecloth. If brushing, use a badger hair taper long handle brush (expensive) Use paper strainer to strain the paint into a small plastic container. Always walk through your area and imagine panting in the area. 

Back to the paints. Two parts poly will last to years inside. Like interlux or petit. 

Two colors inside, I would question why, dark color will make the area look smaller and hotter. Finally have plenty of thinning made for the that paint.


There are alot others in this group that have more experince than I. Wait till someone else gives you more info.
Tom
Landlockedvasailor.blogspot.com


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## sailingdog

If you're going to be painting the interior of a boat, you'll probably want to prime the fiberglass and wood. As LLVS said, prep work is the key to a long-lasting paint job. In most cases, the prep work is the bulk of the work, not the actual painting. Be careful if you choose to use a two-part polyurethane paint, as the catalyst in them is cyanide-based and probably requires you to wear a good respirator if working in an enclosed space like a boat. 

Be aware that glossy paints tend to last longer and tend to be more durable, especially in a marine environment, and are often easier to clean and maintain.


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## SVCarolena

I'm in the process of redoing the inside of my '84 Pearson 303. I decided on one part Interlux Brightside paint. I think one part will be fine for the interior where it is protected from the environment. I did not want to deal with the two-part paint toxicity issues in an enclosed space. I've only used primer in the few places where I needed to do some gel coat repair (PO had a small galley fire). I used the compatible Interlux primer. I'm not going to prime the rest, as the cabin liner has a type of non-skid pattern that the primer tends to obscure. I am using Interlux flattener to dull the gloss. Finally, I intend to roll on the paint where possible with a small roller, and will brush the trim and smaller areas as has been suggested. As for a two-tone effect, we decided to just paint the liner from the ceiling down to the tops of the settees. This section will be in white. The lower glassed areas will remain off-white.


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## DaveXSquid

Thanks for the input. It's great getting first hand advice.


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## killarney_sailor

*automotive masking tape*

If your two colours are going to meet (and I assume they will) I found that the vinyl automotive masking tape is wonderful. This stuff is expensive but gives a sharp edge and you stretch it around curves smoothly.

If you do not want too glossy a finish the paint makers sell flattening agents to cut the gloss.

Good luck


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## artbyjody

SV - you may find not priming a item you wished you did do. When I painted mine - the paint would not adhere and would spread apart, even with prepping of a light sand (using Interlux one part). Especially, if your interior has that crackled textured thing going on. You do not have to necessarily use the Interlux primer - I found kilz worked fairly well (2 coats lightly sanded in between). If you do not prime the other areas do a light sand (fine grit) and use a good cleaner to get rid of all the dust, oils, and other stuff that the interior absorbs over the course of its life.

That was my experience... YMMV


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## SVCarolena

artbyjody said:


> SV - you may find not priming a item you wished you did do. When I painted mine - the paint would not adhere and would spread apart, even with prepping of a light sand (using Interlux one part). Especially, if your interior has that crackled textured thing going on. You do not have to necessarily use the Interlux primer - I found kilz worked fairly well (2 coats lightly sanded in between). If you do not prime the other areas do a light sand (fine grit) and use a good cleaner to get rid of all the dust, oils, and other stuff that the interior absorbs over the course of its life.
> 
> That was my experience... YMMV


Jody - Thanks for the pointers! I've got plenty of primer already, but I didn't like the way it filled the texture in the cabin liner. Then again, I'd much rather deal with that than peeling paint. I had planned to rough up the interior with a wire brush before painting, assuming it would do a better job of getting into the valleys of the texture than would sanding. Maybe I'll try a small area without primer first to see if the paint adheres. Or maybe thin the primer a bit. In any event, it is starting to look as though the interior project won't happen until fall (gotta sail now that the weather is nice).


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## sailingdog

BTW, Trisodium Phosphate is a good cleaner for prepping the surface for painting.  Was the old standby for contractors when my family owned a paint store long ago.


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## soulesailor

I don't see any need to use a specifically marine oriented paint on the inside of a sailboat (except, of course, in watery areas like the bilge). They are very expensive. I painted the inside of my boat with oil-based exterior house paint and it has held up very well and looks great. 

I, too, didn't want the colors to be glossy so I went with a flat finish. I was nervous it wouldn't look cheery enough but it matches well with the mix of oiled wood, polyed wood, instruments, lights and cushions. I'm happy with how it turned out and I have a f*@# ton of it leftover for future coats.


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## Keldee

*Painting boat interior*

A very good book to get to help with any cosmetic boat improvements is 'This Old Boat' by Don Casey. His advice is sensible down to earth and have worked for us with our boats


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## voodooacrobat

I painted my interior three seasons ago. My boat, a 1970 Westerly Cirrus, used to have an upholstered headliner that had become a "mold farm". I ripped it all out, scrubbed and scraped the old glue off of the surfaces, and painted it. 

I'm more of a "Walmart" sailor than the "West Marine" variety, i.e.; Cheap! I used the Kilz primer made for bathrooms and places where mold might be a problem, and a good quality interior wall paint. Much cheaper than any marine paint! As in any paint job, preparation is everything. I used a wire brush on the uneven surfaces, followed by a lot of scrubbing, sanding, more scrubbing, and rinsing before putting on a generous coat of primer. I had no problem at all with the paint adhering to the primed surfaces. It came out looking great and didn't cost an arm and a leg. It's only been a few seasons, but it's been easy to clean and I'm not seeing any signs of peeling paint.


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## rodneyh

*No need for marine paint*

I used a good quality (Rodda brand) oil based house paint and primer. I put it on 5 years ago, and it still looks like new. That was with about a year of cruising in the tropics. You'll probably want to use a high gloss, as that's still not even close to the gloss of something like Awlgrip (which I did use on the exterior). The oil based paints are generally harder and more durable than water based, and I find them much easier to work with. Other than the bilge, there's absolutely no reason to use marine paint on the interior. Just think of the abuse that the exterior of your house takes compared to the interior of your boat. It's not even close, and the better house paints will last about 10 years.


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## rodneyh

*No need for marine paint*

I used a good quality (Rodda brand) oil based house paint and primer. I put it on 5 years ago, and it still looks like new. That was with about a year of cruising in the tropics. You'll probably want to use a high gloss, as that's still not even close to the gloss of something like Awlgrip (which I did use on the exterior). The oil based paints are generally harder and more durable than water based, and I find them much easier to work with. Other than the bilge, there's absolutely no reason to use marine paint on the interior. Just think of the abuse that the exterior of your house takes compared to the interior of your boat. It's not even close, and the better house paints will last about 10 years.


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## TSOJOURNER

I am in the process of re-painting my entire boat-inside and out. 5 years ago I painted my hull with automotive 2part epoxy and it has held up very well. I am using a flat -off white water base exterior latex inside, No fumes -easy clean up and so far - so good. A good light sanding and scrub down with "PreP-sol" cleaner -sold at any auto repair shop, and my 32 year old interior is looking brand new.


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## TSOJOURNER

Several yers ago I had a MacGregor Venture- found out that Interlux paint cost more than a Mac is worth. Painted the interior with two coats of off-white Rustoleum. No, not spray cans, you can buy it by the quart at Home Depot! First coat had lots of brush marks, second coat levelled very nicely. Moderate gloss made it easy to clean up kid's fingerprints and grease from the mechanic's hands. Sold the boat after 9 years, and it still looked great!


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## rfalcons

I repainted the interior of my Cal 40 with Zissner Mold and Mildew resistant paint (Semi-gloss). Prior to painting, I always had mold and mildew come Spring commissioning after the Northeast winters.

I can't tell you how terrific the results were! Looks great and the paint lives up to the "No mold, no mildew" guarantee. 

I prepped by first cleaning with a mildecide cleanser (like Tilex), then sanded the complete interior and coated with two to three coats of the paint.

It's been two years with no mold or mildew and a nice, bright interior.

Torpedo tubes and lazarette have yet to be done, but they're next!

Good luck!


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## TSOJOURNER

*Expensive paints need not apply*



soulesailor said:


> I don't see any need to use a specifically marine oriented paint on the inside of a sailboat (except, of course, in watery areas like the bilge). They are very expensive. I painted the inside of my boat with oil-based exterior house paint and it has held up very well and looks great.
> 
> I, too, didn't want the colors to be glossy so I went with a flat finish. I was nervous it wouldn't look cheery enough but it matches well with the mix of oiled wood, polyed wood, instruments, lights and cushions. I'm happy with how it turned out and I have a f*@# ton of it leftover for future coats.


Ya U right. I painted my sportfishers engine room eight years ago with a exterior grade white enamel and garage floor gray enamel in the bilge, both still look great today, infact better than the rest of the boat where it sits today.


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## GBurton

We painted our hull with interlux perfection and did not use the primer. We washed the boat very well and lightly sanded with 220 grit.
It turned out pretty good

Completing a Westsail 32 kit boat: Going in the water today!


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## TSOJOURNER

*DO NOT USE TWO PART PAINTS ON YOUR INTERIOR.[/COLOR]*

*DO NOT USE TWO PART PAINTS ON YOUR INTERIOR.[/COLOR]*

The iso's in the catalyst WILL harm you.

I've spoken to a spray painter now a crab fisherman, also to another ex-spray painter now an auto parts salesman. They both had horror stories of people using two part paints (this includes two part varnishes) in enclosed areas without air feed respirators (normal respirators do not stop iso' being absorbed by the lungs). It also turns out you absorb more iso's through your skin than what you breath in.

I would suggest using a good enamel paint, remember the white enamels will not keep their bright white. Read the can on brightsides by international.

If its cool (less than 20 C) don't use more than 5% thinners, use the propriotory thinners as mineral turps contains too many impurities and will muddy the finish.

Make sure you have good air flow through the cabin, set up a large fan in the companionway and open all of the hatches and ports. A good quality respirator will do a good job when using *single part* paints.

Good painting
Zephyr


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## sailaway21

I too went with an oil-based exterior trim paint and have been happy with the results on my boat. I wanted it glossy because, in my experience, the gloss tends to diminish over time and it reflects light well in notoriously under-lit boats. If you start with a satin finish it will be dimmer inside to begin with but, preferences vary.

Even Don Casey says you can get away with this cost-savings measure and as soule says, I've got a half gallon left over from a gallon that cost half what a quart of a marine paint would have cost me! and the advantage to that is that, should you need to do further coats, touch-up, or repaint you're not looking at another large budget expense and therefore more likely to do it.


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## sailingdog

BTW, the ISO he is talking about is the ISOCYANATE components of the two-part paints. This is a CYANIDE-based compound and faily toxic.


Zephyr88 said:


> *DO NOT USE TWO PART PAINTS ON YOUR INTERIOR.*
> 
> *DO NOT USE TWO PART PAINTS ON YOUR INTERIOR.*
> 
> The iso's in the catalyst WILL harm you.
> 
> I've spoken to a spray painter now a crab fisherman, also to another ex-spray painter now an auto parts salesman. They both had horror stories of people using two part paints (this includes two part varnishes) in enclosed areas without air feed respirators (normal respirators do not stop iso' being absorbed by the lungs). It also turns out you absorb more iso's through your skin than what you breath in.
> 
> I would suggest using a good enamel paint, remember the white enamels will not keep their bright white. Read the can on brightsides by international.
> 
> If its cool (less than 20 C) don't use more than 5% thinners, use the propriotory thinners as mineral turps contains too many impurities and will muddy the finish.
> 
> Make sure you have good air flow through the cabin, set up a large fan in the companionway and open all of the hatches and ports. A good quality respirator will do a good job when using *single part* paints.
> 
> Good painting
> Zephyr


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