# Sailing Haiti



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

I recently returned from a pretty exciting cruise to Haiti and Cuba. I hope to go back to Haiti next year, and would like to get in touch with other sailors who have an interest in that fascinating country. Some pictures and stories from our cruise are online:

http://web.mac.com/geertvanderkolk/iWeb/homepage/haiti_and_cuba_photos.html

Thanks!

Geert van der Kolk


----------



## danjarch (Jun 18, 2007)

Nice pics. Sounds like you guys had a wonderful time.


----------



## Cruisingdad (Jul 21, 2006)

I will self edit, per Hyperion, and only say this:

If you go to Cuba and you are an American, and they catch you or suspect you, you can likely kiss your boat and money goodbye.

- CD


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

CD - I appreciate the level-headedness to often bring to a thread which, for no reason other than being on SailNet, begins to spiral into the abyss... I've got to say, though, notwithstanding your disclaimer in your PostScript, that what was nothing more than a post by a good, Dutch fellow (I know he's good because he's Dutch - and if you aren't Dutch you aren't much), turned uber-political in a hurry.

I'd love to jump in and discuss the ironies of the "atrocities" to which you draw attention, but I'd love even more for a thread to just stay about sailing for once. Just like you, CD, honestly not an attack. Just an observation.

Dank jou, M. van der Kolk.


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Nice pics, thanks for sharing. I like the bamboom setup... Giu, take note


----------



## Cruisingdad (Jul 21, 2006)

Hyp,

Deleted thread

I will self-edit this post. My intentions are not to turn this thread away form what it is. I will let it be, Hyperion. But it is VERY hard for I have VERY strong opinions on this matter, enforced no doubt by living in S FLorida with many Cubans whose lives he ruined.

- CD


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Cruisingdad said:


> Hyp,
> 
> Deleted thread
> 
> ...


CD,

Not saying I don't agree with you or at least understand what you're saying, and I totally respect you for choosing to keep things on-topic despite your strong feelings on the subject. See? That's that "level-headedness" I was talking about.  It's a rare thing, especially here.

The "zombies" picture is enough for me to want to sail to Haiti.


----------



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

*I am looking for feedback on Haiti*

I am quite taken aback by CD's aggressive reaction. I didn't sail to Haiti and Cuba on a whim, but as a writer. My purpose is to bear witness, in my stories, of what I discovered there, good and bad, beautiful and ugly. Of course, I was also interested in the adventure, but since when do cruising sailors shy away from that? Anyway, I don't think I owe anybody an explanation, except my conscience and the law, and I'm in the clear with both of them.

This is the first time I posted on SailNet. Maybe I should start a new thread. I am very interested in feedback from sailors who have been to Haiti, or have an interest in the country.

Geert van der Kolk

http://www.geertvanderkolk.com


----------



## Freesail99 (Feb 13, 2006)

Great pictures, gave a real "feel" for the trip. Thanks for sharing.

Paul


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

geertvanderkolk said:


> I am quite taken aback by CD's aggressive reaction. I didn't sail to Haiti and Cuba on a whim, but as a writer. My purpose is to bear witness, in my stories, of what I discovered there, good and bad, beautiful and ugly. Of course, I was also interested in the adventure, but since when do cruising sailors shy away from that? Anyway, I don't think I owe anybody an explanation, except my conscience and the law, and I'm in the clear with both of them.
> 
> This is the first time I posted on SailNet. Maybe I should start a new thread. I am very interested in feedback from sailors who have been to Haiti, or have an interest in the country.
> 
> ...


Geert,

It's a topic which is important to CD, but you'll note he removed it anyway. I'm interested in hearing about how the level of poverty struck you. It's one of the world's poorest nations; rampant levels of HIV infection... did any of this colour the experience you had? The pictures you took certainly don't betray the strife that many people there face...


----------



## Cruisingdad (Jul 21, 2006)

Geert,

I edited the post before you even replied. It is one of the VERY few topics which sets me off. If you have followed this site for very long, you will know that I do not go tilt easily. 

I have good reason for going tilt, but we will leave those reasons to me, and I will say no more on the matter as it will turn into a political and humanitarian debate of which I will likely lose my cool. My post was not directed towards you... it is personal feelings on the matter of Cuba especially.

Please continue to post and I look forward to your continued feedback. Stick around, ok!!! 

- CD


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

buddy of mine married a cuban girl. Cocktail Waitress/model at the casino. They were married in cuba but he said he had to go through a booty load of red tape to get there. wish i could find his website. i remember seeing some nice classic american autos and motorcycles. maybe someday it will be a hot tourist destination for everyone. a fellow sailor also said Haiti was the worst place he visited on his circumnav. I still like looking at the pics and culture. That storm video was awesome,


----------



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

*The Haiti project*

The poverty is in your face, and your nose and ears, the moment you arrive. I had been to Haiti before (by plane) but my crew were quite shocked, and wrote moving impressions on our blog (you'll have to scroll down a bit):

http://log-of-the-sea-scout.blogspot.com/2007_02_01_archive.html

On the island of Ile a Vache on the South coast I became friends with several local fishermen and boat builders, and went sailing with them. My plan for next year is to return to Haiti, build a boat in the local manner, and try to sail it to Florida. It would be a great sporting challenge, but it also has a humanitarian aspect. It would be a reconstruction of the experience of all those anonymous boat people. I am looking for ideas and help in building and sailing the boat. Here is picture of a common fishing sloop:

http://web.mac.com/geertvanderkolk/iWeb/homepage/haiti_and_cuba_photos_files/boat+9.jpg


----------



## sailhog (Dec 11, 2006)

Wasn't Thor Hyerdahl Dutch or Scandinavian or something... What is it with you people and your vacations? Can't you just go to Six Flags like everyone else?


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Hyerdahl was Scandinavian, but we Dutch have some of the same Viking DNA.

Geert - wow! Hats off to you on the idea of building a local-style boat and sailing her to Florida. THAT will make for a cool blog. Looking forward to hearing all about it.


----------



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

sailhog said:


> Wasn't Thor Hyerdahl Dutch or Scandinavian or something... What is it with you people and your vacations? Can't you just go to Six Flags like everyone else?


That's very funny. I mean it. I immediately forwarded it to my wife and other dear ones. You quite right, by the way, that Heyerdahl (Norwegian) is a source of inspiration. With his raft Kon-Tiki he tried to make a point about a pre-historic migration from South America to Polynesia. I want to make a point about a migration, an Exodus, really, that is happening right now, and very close to home.


----------



## fmooy (Jul 5, 2007)

Hey geertvanderkolk,

Congrats on coming to Haiti. I'm living in Port-au-Prince right now, but I will be heading back to my other home in New Orleans soon. I dig it here and I am glad you had such a good experience. I have been living in Haiti off and on for some years now, but I've never come by boat! Anyway, if you ever need a fluent Haitian Creole speaking crew member, be sure to let me know.

Your Friend


----------



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

fmooy said:


> I'm living in Port-au-Prince right now, but I will be heading back to my other home in New Orleans soon. I dig it here and I am glad you had such a good experience. I have been living in Haiti off and on for some years now, but I've never come by boat! Anyway, if you ever need a fluent Haitian Creole speaking crew member, be sure to let me know.


That sounds interesting. Thank you very much for posting! Needless to say, I'd be delighted to work with somebody who is a sailor, knows Haiti, and speaks creole (I had to make do with French). Please email me directly ([email protected]) so we don't clog up the forum.


----------



## cj007 (Apr 7, 2011)

*returning to Haiti?...*

If you plan to go again, please let me know. I can offer a few sets of good hands. I'm gonna live aboard this year and will consider it myself maybe later this summer or next year.

I am in Haiti for nonprofit work about 4 times a year so I would love to sail there someday soon.


----------



## cj007 (Apr 7, 2011)

Count me in!

My creole is great...


----------



## tdw (Oct 2, 2006)

Hey CJ, no big deal but Geert hasn't posted here since 07. 

Cheers


----------



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

*Haiti update*

Hi CJ,

I went back to Haiti last year, just after the earthquake, but not with my own boat. I crewed on the schooner Liberty, from Miami. We brought food and medical supplies to Jacmel, a badly damaged town on the south coast. The schooner's captain, Jared Talarski, later took another tall ship with relief supplies to Haiti's capital Port au Prince. I do not know if there are new sailing trips to Haiti in the works. Jared is definitely the guy to talk to. If you're interested, I can send you his contact information.

Geert

PS: I wrote an article about the first relief mission for the British Magazine Yachting World:
Yachting World


----------



## tdw (Oct 2, 2006)

Well there you go .. its not always a complete waste of time to revive a five year old thread ..


----------



## cj007 (Apr 7, 2011)

Geert,

That great. I think I met in PAP one of th eguys that may have been on that rig. His name is Matthew Levasseur, does that ring a bell? He mentioned he sailed on in. 

Please do forward my info. I'm gonna try my hand at living aboard for a year. I start within the next few weeks and see how I like it and then maybe slowly work my way into southern waters.

cJ


----------



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

Sure I remember Matt. He was also on the crew of the schooner Liberty. He did not sail back with us, but stayed in Haiti to work on a project.
If you send me an email ([email protected]) I can give you the contact information.

Geert


----------



## urbanhermit (Nov 15, 2010)

Cuba is amazing, the people may be money poor but they are Dignity and culturally very rich. Beautiful people.


----------



## Capetinho (Sep 6, 2010)

I've lived and worked in Haiti for almost five years and can't resist throwing in my two cents worth.

Despite its reputation for poverty, violence and (gasp!) voodoo, Haiti is neither worse nor better than many countries trying to overcome a history of colonialism followed by 100 yrs of inept, selfish despotism. The people are proud, courteous, loud, outgoing and quick to anger. Show them respect and they will return it. Look down on them and watch out for flying machetes. Seems fair to me.

Realize that if you come, you will arrive on a yacht that costs more than most will make in their entire lifetime and you will be seen as a dollar sign with legs. Offer a small gift in all innocence to a child and you will very soon be surrounded by similar children expecting the same. Failure to follow through can have ugly consequences.

Despite the apparent poverty, there are people here with lots and lots of money. Some are in legitimate business, some deal in narcotics and some are in both. It's hard sometimes to tell the difference. They all have a vested interest in maintaining the status quo.

Although the principal language is Creole, French is spoken by the more educated upper classes and English is becoming more common, at least in the major cities, following the flood of international aid workers who have arrived since the earthquake. English = jobs. Please forgive what may appear to be a racist statement, but there are too many white people here. I am one of them. The only people who will ever fix Haiti are Haitians.

The security situation here is relatively stable since the presidential runoff, although there are currently frequent demonstrations in the regions over results of the parliamentary elections. I personally don't consider it particularly dangerous, although I may just be numb. There are certainly places in the U.S. that I would have more concerns about.

I sail regularly on a raggedy-ass 28-foot catamaran in the Bay of Gonave, mostly one and two-day sails between Miragoane and Cabaret. There are no secure anchorages in that area and no services to speak of, although I can put you in touch with a guy who operates a dive center near St. Marc. Let the buyer beware.

Anybody sailing these waters would be well advised to check out a downloadable cruising guide written by a guy named Frank Virgintino (http://www.haiticruisingguide.com/), who advises avoiding the thorny path by circling the island counter-clockwise. Based on what little I know, he's spot on. In particular, check out his reference to Ile a'Vache.

Haiti is a vibrant, dynamic, tragic, magical land. Part of me can't wait to leave. Part of me can't bear to stay.

I should shut up now.


----------



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

I dont have as much experience in Haiti as Capetinho. From my observations, his comments seem balanced and sensible. After six visits, three of them by sailboat, I have learned to love and hate the place, too. I can certainly recommend Île à Vache, a small island off Haiti's southern coast. I first sailed there in my own boat, and later returned for three months to build a traditional Haitian fishing boat, which I sailed to Florida with a crew of Haitian friends.

Pictures from the first sailing trip to Haiti (and Cuba) are here:
haiti_and_cuba_photos

Pictures and info on the boat building project on Île à Vache are here:
Sipriz Expedition


----------



## joethecobbler (Apr 10, 2007)

Interesting boat. what does it cost to have a boat built there? 

could/would they build say a 50 or 100' vessel ? 

What were the sails made from ? 

looks very interesting, I'm suprised that someone hasn't capitalized on the 
boat building oppotunites.

recently I've been interested in wooden boats due to the availability of wood in far flung locations and the aparent aese of repair w/ hand-tools


----------



## gtod25 (Aug 5, 2000)

*Capetinho is spot on.....*

I spend six months in Haiti in 1995 monitoring the US "intervasion" (an invasion / intervention). Went back to Île à Vache on my sailboat in 2004.










Sailboats and dugout canoes, Île à Vache, Haiti.










Traditional caulking methods.


----------



## WanderingStar (Nov 12, 2008)

Developing countries often have skilled boatbuilders. But island sloops and trading vessels aren't always up to yacht standards. I read an article about Haitian vessels in which they were built using rebar as fasteners. Probably good for ten years. And the sloop thet built appeared to have plank butts all around the midlength. Again, not yacht standard. There are thriving boat building businesses in India and Viet Nam. One can have a new vessel built for a fraction of the cost in the US or western Europe. But it is still more than a good used vessel that is tready to go, especially when transport and tariffs are counted.


----------



## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

Some 15 years ago I was in Nassau where I saw several Haitien boats like the one built for Gert. I was in awe of their courage and seamanship as they shuttled between Nassau and Haiti carrying fruit veg etc up and everything from stolen bicycles to dead fridges back down.

No engine compass or dacron. Oars [maybe] instinct and Robin Hood FLour sacks.


----------



## geertvanderkolk (Jul 19, 2007)

The largest boats I've seen in Haiti were about 35-40 feet. Below is a picture. They are used as freighters and ferries. All these boats are built for local use. I think it would be a very long time before there could be a yacht building industry in Haiti, like there is in East and South Asia.

Our boat "Sipriz" (Creole for Surprise) was only 20 feet, and built by hand with machete and hammer, with green wood, galvanized nails, and a mixture of rags and tree resin for caulking. The mainsail was locally sewn from Dacron donated by North Sails; the jib out of local cotton. We had no engine, but we did have oars. Trying to get out of Nassau on a windless day, we were arrested and brought in by the Bahamian harbor patrol, who claimed there is a law against rowing in Nassau Harbor. After a lot of argument, they let us go on. There is enormous animosity against Haitians in the Bahamas.

Geert van der Kolk


----------



## Wandersome (Jan 14, 2013)

I'm currently living in the North. Area known as Caracol. I purchased an Alberg 37 in the DR and will be moving her here if I can ever get her rebuild finished. I'll post more as things progress. 

Wander a little, It'll open your eyes!


----------



## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

Really nasty attack on the crew of a cruising yacht in Haiti recently.

Beware!


----------



## Wandersome (Jan 14, 2013)

I suspect you are talking about the one on the north coast of the gulf of Gonave? I'm North coast of the island. Thanks for the warning though. Better safe than sorry. 

Wander


----------



## Wandersome (Jan 14, 2013)

Cleared into North Haiti town of Fort Liberte yesterday. Mine is the only boat in the harbor. Customs and immigration's were polite and efficient. I'll be anchored in North Haiti for the next year or so. Come visit!

Wandersome


----------



## bvander66 (Sep 30, 2007)

TQA said:


> Really nasty attack on the crew of a cruising yacht in Haiti recently.
> 
> Beware!


Really nasty murder of people in (name any large US city here) recently.

Beware!

Danger lurks everywhere, need to be alert to surroundings regardless of where you are. Even then sometimes bad things happen to good people.


----------



## pcorm00 (Nov 29, 2021)

Cruisingdad said:


> I will self edit, per Hyperion, and only say this:
> 
> If you go to Cuba and you are an American, and they catch you or suspect you, you can likely kiss your boat and money goodbye.
> 
> - CD


What are you referring to?


----------



## pcorm00 (Nov 29, 2021)

geertvanderkolk said:


> *Haiti update*
> 
> Hi CJ,
> 
> ...


I plan on sailing to Haiti this year. I will be going to Leogane. I need all of the information that I can get my hands on, including ports of entry where I can get my passport stamped. Thanks, P.A. Cormier


----------



## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

pcorm00 said:


> What are you referring to?


That post was made in 2007 so anything/opinions etc could have changed in the last 15 years


----------

