# Tohatsu 6hp Sail-Pro Version



## Bruce_L (Jun 19, 2012)

Found a good deal on a new 6hp Tohatsu 4-stroke with a 25" shaft. This is the Sail-pro model. Also has a 5A alternator already installed as well as a larger prop with less pitch (8x6 instead of a 7x7 more or less) I'm not looking to plane my boat anyhow... I know this is the same as the Mercury/Nissan from my research here. 

Anybody have one if these? The model was updated later into 2011 if I am correct. Was considering a 5HP Honda or a 6hp Yamaha, but the additional 5" of shaft plus the ability to charge my 12V batt is a plus,. The price is $1538 with no shipping charges. Every Honda/Yamaha dealer in town can "Order" me a motor but, heck I can do that too! I'd still have to pay to have a charging system added as well.

What do you think? 

BTW - If you had problems with yours from bad/ethanol gas please tell me another time. I just want to know if you are happy with the motor.

Thanks, Bruce


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## Sea Dawg (Jun 26, 2012)

My sister got the 9.8 Tohatsu with charger and starts 1st time every time. Purrs. But it's heavy as all 4 cycles are. Still a good motor.


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## Ward H (Jun 23, 2012)

My 4hp Tohatsu starts first pull and runs great. For 2012 they have a longer tiller (3"?) and the shifter is up front instead of on the side. Sail Pro should have same new features.


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## StPeteSteve (Jul 19, 2010)

I have the Nissan labled version. Had it for a few months, happy so far. Starts right up with a light pull. I wish the motor would have come with an internal tank as well as the external tank like the non sailpro versions... most of the time I just need to get in and out of the slip, don't really need that much fuel.


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## Bruce_L (Jun 19, 2012)

StPeteSteve said:


> I wish the motor would have come with an internal tank as well as the external tank like the non sailpro versions... most of the time I just need to get in and out of the slip, don't really need that much fuel.


I agree, most times I'll run for 10-15 minutes to clear the breakwater then its all wind from there. Still torn between the 20" 4hp internal tank and the 6 HP sail pro version. Money isn't the variable, its space and complexity of systems. Extra tank and hose, longer shaft to trip over...

I have a motor well in the cockpit that makes it easy to run my motor and I love it, but I pull the outboard out and stow it when I am sailing.

Used to get by on a Johnson 3HP 2-stroke but had one day with rough seas and wind and almost went into the rock jetty at the harbor entrance, while under full power Poor little motor spent 2/3 of the time with the prop bobbing out of the water. Has a teeny plastic prop too!!!!

I appreciate the input from everyone. Bruce


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

I had the tohatsu 3.5, and it was a great engine
I would make one comment re the internal fuel tank. Its fine if you're sure you're only going to cruise short distances under power. But for longer stretches, filling up the tank in any kind of swell is unpleasant and dangerous. You find yourself hanging off the back of the boat with a gas tank, and they all need 2 hands to work.


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## Merit25lovers (Mar 30, 2011)

I purchased a 6hp Tohatsu 4-stroke with a 25" shaft last season. Beautiful motor, and light, in my opinion, for its size (long shaft).

It does vibrate a bit, probably louder than my 2 cylinder 2 stroke, but it is reliable and really moves the boat.

Had an issue with extreme shaking coming in one evening. I think it was due to not priming the motor before starting it to come in. Either that or I had it too low in the water, and we had a lot of sea grass that night. Note sure, but my advice is to always prime before starting (or your fuel flow will never be adequate) and don't lower that cavitation plate too far into the water (easy to do with the 25" shaft!)

Enjoy!


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## mikehoyt (Nov 27, 2000)

I bought the 4 hp 20" shaft version. then I had carb upgrade to 6hp, added the alternator and the hi thrust prop. Now I have essentially the sailpro version with two differences. First is 20 " long shaft vs 25. My boat has low freeboard so I did not want the longer version. Second is I have both the internal AND external tank. Very convenient. I could have bought the sailpro for $100 less but this way it suits my needs better

No problem with the motor other than people stealing it. Bought a 2012 replacement this year to replace the new one I bought last year (and was stolen). Again I ordered 4hp and had upgraded to 6 with alternator and hi thrust prop.

Great motor. The hi thrust prop is nice as well. 4/5/6 hp versions are the same motor except carb. I believe 59lbs.

Mike


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

I bought the 6HP Tohatsu 4 stroke with the standard shaft several months ago. A little cranky to start, about 10 pulls. Other than that it runs perfectly, gets a 12 foot 700 lb Jon Boat up on a plane and runs 10.4 MPH. Cranky starting may be because of our 6,000 foot altitude? Probably not. It has the integral tank, can't pressurize it with the squeeze bulb.

Paul T


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## bratzcpa (Oct 18, 2011)

I have the 9.8 Nissan - - 25" shaft, elect start and 6amp charging. Absolutely love it. 

Pro: Starts very very easily, quiet (purrs), miserly on gas, easy to use controls even when hanging off the back of my sailboat, no smoke, no smell.

Cons: HEAVY - pretty difficult to mount and dismount. Also, the flywheel broke the first time out. Replaced under warranty though and no problems since. 

overall, very happy with Nissan motor. 25" shaft is perfect length. elec start very very nice and charging circuit awesome.


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## Bruce_L (Jun 19, 2012)

Merit25lovers said:


> I purchased a 6hp Tohatsu 4-stroke with a 25" shaft last season..........and don't lower that cavitation plate too far into the water (easy to do with the 25" shaft!)
> 
> Enjoy!


Not sure about the information mentioned above about lowering the cavitation plate too far into the water.

Can anyone explain please?


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## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

An extra long shaft engine and high-thrust prop will make a big difference in powering in waves of any size. Just make use you don't have any problems with interference. When I put such an engine on a Pearson 26 many years ago, I had to tilt the engine back slightly to avoid it hitting the rudder under power.


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## Bruce_L (Jun 19, 2012)

Thanks, good point !! And I'm sure I wont have any problems hitting the rudder unless I swing the motor hard over while pushing the sailboat tiller the other way. My outboard motor will rest in an offset motor well about 15 inches to the left of the keel. Motor well is about 31/2 feet ahead of the stern as well. I know that I will not have any prop wash over the rudder to help steering and will most likely rig up a method to lock the outboard tiller straight anyhow while moving forward. Will probably only use the outboard tiller to help back into the marina slip upon returning. This will be the 1st motor I'll own that has a true reverse gear selector. The others had a spin-it-around-180-degree method the go backwards, was really confusing sometimes.

Really like the idea of the 25" shaft, want that prop down deep in rougher waters. Only drawback is the sail pro motor is 50" tall from the tip of the lower skeg to top of motor cover . YOW , thats over 4 feet of motor!!!

Still not sure about the previous comment about "Cavitation Plate" I have a displacement hull and dont plan on doing any high speed planing as it is... 

Again, I appreciate all the great info everyone is providing here. Bruce


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## Merit25lovers (Mar 30, 2011)

Bruce_L said:


> Not sure about the information mentioned above about lowering the cavitation plate too far into the water.
> 
> Can anyone explain please?


From Answers website:

"A cavitation plate is a permanent horizontal plate on the vertical shaft of the outboard right above the propeller. It sits just at the water level when the boat is up on plane (ie: flush with the bottom of the boat, for a planing style hull). 
It prevents 'cavitation' of the propeller ie: prevents air from the surface of the water being picked up by the action of the propeller. Cavitation drastically reduces a prop's effectiveness & efficiency; basically a cavitating prop is pushing some air rather that just water. Over-revving can also result."

My outboard is on an adjustable motor mount. All I was referring to was not putting the motor mount too far down such taht the cavitation plate is way below water level...

It just seemed to purr better when it was not so deep in the water!


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

"All I was referring to was not putting the motor mount too far down such that the cavitation plate is way below water level..."

If the propeller is low so that the cavitation plate is way below the water level, there will be no cavitation to prevent. But you WILL prevent the prop from coming out of the water when it is rough. On a sailboat, if you do place the cavitation plate at water level the prop will be coming out of the water every time you hit a wave.

In other words, for a sailboat the longest shaft is best - unless it is so long that you're hitting the bottom. Which I doubt.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

At some point of depth it does become difficult for the motor to push out the exhaust gas 

Remember even with the sailpro label the shaft lengths main and original purpose is/was different lengths of transoms on plaining hulls


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

At a depth of 1ft, the water pressure is 1.033 atm. That's 0.47 PSI higher than at sea level, or a reduction in flow through the exhaust of about 3% vs. sea level. Shouldn't matter, it's a small price to pay in terms of power loss if the prop stays in the water.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

It matters 

All sterndrive boats have idle exhaust relieve ports because the through-prop exhaust is to deep underwater at displacement speed to start correctly 

On larger outboards your often are NOT suppose to shut them down when fishing in big swells because the boat can bob deep enough to get the lowest cylinders WET


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## Sea Dawg (Jun 26, 2012)

MarkSF said:


> At a depth of 1ft, the water pressure is 1.033 atm. That's 0.47 PSI higher than at sea level, or a reduction in flow through the exhaust of about 3% vs. sea level. Shouldn't matter, it's a small price to pay in terms of power loss if the prop stays in the water.


Matters more on a 2 cycle as the whole engine cycle relies on exit of exhaust to draw in next fuel charge. There are no valves to open and close and the fuel only comes in with the rush of exhaust flow. The impact will be notable in top rpm being lower and will not idle as freely. Back pressure is not faborable, but agree you want to avoid cavitation as well.


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## smallboatlover (May 11, 2011)

on sailboats the more motor you have in the water the better. I have a 8 hp short shaft i had to put a swing bracket on my boat for the motor to work and the cavition plate is is about 4-6 inchs below the water. good for waves.


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## cstpt (Jul 10, 2012)

I've had the Nissan Sail Pro on my Nordica 20 for one season. I replaced an 8hp Nissan four-stroke that was just heavy enough that I couldn't pull my motor bracket to up to the first notch, necessary to tilt the engine out of the water. I miss the electric start and the smoothness of the 2 cylinders--this is a rackety little devil-but the lighter weight and longer shaft are reasonable tradeoffs. If I had to motor an hour before hoisting the sails, the noise would be objectionable.

Having read the complaints from some people that the motor vibrates itself out of a straight position, I bought a bracket made by Tohatsu to lock the motor in position, then realized I can't use it because my motor mount is on the angled transom. In any case, it's useful being able to turn the motor when docking, and since I can reach the tiller it's not much of an issue if it moves slightly out of alignment.


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## fryewe (Dec 4, 2004)

Used my Tohatsu Sailpro to push the Dovekie on the Mohawk/Erie Canal for a couple of days this week both up and downstream through a few locks. Filled the three gallon tank before I left and refilled when I got back. One gallon for 25 statute miles with the throttle 50 to 75 percent when outside the locks and idling in neutral when in the locks. Boat at hull speed of 6 knots when at 3/4 throttle.


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

fryewe said:


> Used my Tohatsu Sailpro to push the Dovekie on the Mohawk/Erie Canal for a couple of days this week both up and downstream through a few locks. Filled the three gallon tank before I left and refilled when I got back. One gallon for 25 statute miles with the throttle 50 to 75 percent when outside the locks and idling in neutral when in the locks. Boat at hull speed of 6 knots when at 3/4 throttle.


We have the regular 6HP 4 stroke on a fishing boat. Initially it was hard to start but after gapping the plug to proper specs it now starts easily and runs perfectly. Three hours of trolling and running in and out uses not quite a pint of fuel.

Paul T


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