# Running the outboard out of the water for 30 seconds



## Bene505 (Jul 31, 2008)

Does anyone know if it's ok to run an outboard engine out of the water? I'm talking for 30 seconds just to "turn over" the gas in the carburator to help prevent it turning into shallack. Also to put oil back on the cylinder walls.

The engine is a 20hp Tohatsu that's hanging off the stern of our boat. It's about 30 degrees here. I figure it will take some time for the internal engine parts to get hot.

Gratuitous winter picture of the outboard









Plan B is to lift it off the pushpit and let it hang into the water off one of the davits. At 117 pounds, it's not something I like to do too often if I can avoid it.

Plan C is to get the ear-muff looking device to clamp on the water intake and run the engine for longer periods of time. It's not easy to find flowing water here though. I'd probably hook it up to our washdown pump when the temp get's above 32.

After last winter, when it was run completely out of fuel and stored in our warm furnace room, it took the whole summer to run right again. I'm looking to avoid that by running it periodically throughout the winter.

So will it hurt the engine to run it for 30 seconds without water???

Regards,
Brad


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

It KILLS the water pump in about 11 seconds more or less

MUCH better to use a tall 5 gallon bucket or the correct ear muffs to keep the pump wet as it will self drain if the motor is level

IF you winterize it and *drain* the fuel bowl there is no need to do anything over the winter BUT the motor would like a cover  as it helps a lot with the UV also

Most do have a drain screw for this reason


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## svHyLyte (Nov 13, 2008)

Bene505 said:


> Does anyone know if it's ok to run an outboard engine out of the water? I'm talking for 30 seconds just to "turn over" the gas in the carburator to help prevent it turning into shallack. Also to put oil back on the cylinder walls.
> 
> The engine is a 20hp Tohatsu that's hanging off the stern of our boat. It's about 30 degrees here. I figure it will take some time for the internal engine parts to get hot.
> 
> ...


Brad--

While the engine may remain cool due to the temps, the impellor in your water-pump won't be too happy. Why not pull your plugs and spray fogging oil into the cyclinders and then give the starting line a few tugs. Absent plugs, the engine will turn over easily distributing the oil on the cyclinder walls then reinstall the plugs. On that motor you should also be able to pull the fuel bowl quite easily. Just dump it out and wipe it dry with a lint-free cloth.

FWIW...


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## sailjunkie (Nov 4, 2009)

Very good comments from the other posters, especially the concerns about the impeller. If it was my motor, I would opt for plan C.


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## mitchbrown (Jan 21, 2009)

I have found that most of the carburators on these outboards drain when you tilt the engine all the way up. the gas usually just runs out into the engine cowling where it will evaporate.


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## Bene505 (Jul 31, 2008)

tommays said:


> It KILLS the water pump in about 11 seconds more or less


OUCH!



> MUCH better to use a tall 5 gallon bucket...


Now that's a simple, effective, great idea. I love it!

Thanks everyone for the input.

Regards,
Brad


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## JKCatalina310 (Nov 18, 2010)

*20 hp?*

What kind of sailor has a 20 hp dinghy motor?


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## Siamese (May 9, 2007)

Sounds like you're getting some good advice. I would question the value of starting the engine at all on the off season, for the purpose of keeping the fuel from turning to shellac. Outboards don't like old fuel. Turning it over won't make it any younger. Absolutely, at the end of the season, put the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer in your fuel and run the engine long enough for the stabilized fuel to fill the carb. Very easy...very effective. Then, fogging the engine is a good idea, with the engine running, but not as important as the stabilizer. 

And as the others have said, running it dry will destroy your impeller rather quickly. 

The five gallon bucket will work well enough. In neutral :laugher


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

All above comments are good, drain the carb. Running it "dry" may
leave a small amount of fuel which will evaporate and leave debris
which may be sucked up and clog jets the next time you start it. I 
have used Berryman's B-12 fuel additive for many years in outboards,
motorcycles, generators, snowblowers and cars on an ongoing basis
with no fuel related problems. No affiliation and other products may
work as well? The most important thing is to drain the fuel bowl, and
yes, the impeller won't like being run dry.

Dabnis


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## tra (Dec 25, 2010)

*Ethanol*

I'd like to add a comment about ethanol. My son has been employed in the marine industry for years and most of his repair work is fuel related. He advises using fuel additives specifically designed to protect engines from the potential corrosive effects of ethanol and is constantly checking for water in his own fuel. Any gasoline fueled equipment stored for long periods may be adversely impacted by ethanol.


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## Bene505 (Jul 31, 2008)

JKCatalina310 said:


> What kind of sailor has a 20 hp dinghy motor?


The same kind that needs 4 staterooms so everyone gets a berth!

.

I wanted the following when dinghy shopping:

1. Able to plane with every one aboard, so we could explore, and no shuttling people back and forth. We have one special needs child that adds to the complexity of the fox-hen-grain exercise that we'd have to do if we had to take multiple trips.

2. Able to pull up on the beach when I'm alone. This meant a hard bottom, because sea shells would qiuckly lacerate the underside of an inflated bottom.

3. Able to pull up on our davits.

We got an 11'6" Achilles RIB.. Great dinghy. At one point we explored Martha's Vinyard, planing with everyone aboard, beach chairs and a cooler. We went 3 miles to one beach and it was a great time. [The marina screwed up our prop reconditioning so we found ourselves (2 weeks later) with no prop on our sailboat. Being able to explore turned a stressfull time into an adventure.]

Oh, and the Tohatsu 20 hp weighs the same as the 15 hp. It's the same engine with a different carburator. A no brainer to get the 20 hp!

Regards,
Brad


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

It may have already been said, but if the intent is to run the engine to drain the carb of fuel, wouldn't it be easiest to just drain the bowl by pulling the drain screw? The hassle of lugging a bucket down the docks covered in snow...then figuring out a way to mount the bucket under the motor and run it just seems like a lot of work when it would take you maybe 5 minutes to remove the cover and drain the carb. 

If you're wanting to winterize it properly I would think it be best to remove the engine from the boat, take it somewhere where you can run water through a hose to either "ear muffs" or the intake input with proper fitting, run it for 10-15, fog the carb, then change oil (if app), lower unit lube, maybe spark plugs and fog (pull the carb a few times while fogging), and fuel filter. Just sayin.

@JKCatalina310...WTH? Speaking for myself, one of the things we enjoy doing often is to explore the shoreline with the kids in our dingy. Lets say we're somewhere like the Wye River off the Chesapeake. There are miles and miles off shoreline you could explore outside the creek one is anchored for the night. Something like a 20hp on a RIB just allows you more options. Stop being such a hater and don't judge people you don't know! AT least that how I read your ridiculous comment!


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## AdamLein (Nov 6, 2007)

It's all been said, but I just love this diagram:










(from 74 on water problems)


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## JKCatalina310 (Nov 18, 2010)

*It was a joke*



T37Chef said:


> Stop being such a hater and don't judge people you don't know! AT least that how I read your ridiculous comment!


Geesh, typical uptight Tartan owner. (that is a joke too before you get all bent out of shape)

We typically joke at our marina that most power boaters have larger engines on their dinghies then the sailboaters have on our sailboats.


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## DulceSuerna (May 19, 2010)

Maybe they just enjoy waterskiing behind their dinghy:laugher


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## LakeSuperiorGeezer (Oct 8, 2010)

If the 20 hp Tohatsu is a 4 cycle, it is fuel injection so no carburetor. If two cycle, pull the cowing and check, as I do not know if there is a carburetor. Some of the new Tohatsu outboards have fuel injection on the 2 cycles. On old outboards, ethanol can dissolve rubber parts in the fuel system. The 10% ethanol mixed gasoline also goes stale much faster. If you have fuel injection, the old gasoline would clear after you crank the engine a bit next spring. What I would do is siphon the gasoline from the fuel tank. With a portable tank, I guess you can just tip the tank over into a large pan or funnel, but siphoning would be better. You can buy a hose with a rubber bulb on it at an auto parts store for siphoning. Take the old fuel and put it in your car with the car tank almost full. If you have fuel in the outboard that does not have ethanol, put stabilizer in the fuel now and you will probably be OK next spring. I buy premium grade fuel where I live since it has no ethanol and use it in all my small engines. By the way, even if the impeller did not melt while running dry, the uneven heating of engine parts would damage the engine, especially around the exhaust valves if it is a 4 cycle. Cracks in metal parts are likely with excess heat. Aluminum is really bad this way. Inboard engines with cast iron heads will stand more abuse. Piston rings also loose their tension when overheated causing loss of compression and oil consumption.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

*Forum etiquette?*



JKCatalina310 said:


> Geesh, typical uptight Tartan owner. (that is a joke too before you get all bent out of shape)
> 
> We typically joke at our marina that most power boaters have larger engines on their dinghies then the sailboaters have on our sailboats.


Nice to hear it was a joke.  It appears you are relativity new here with about 20 post, so it would be safe to say I/we don't know you or your on-line persona. You might consider using icons such as these     :laugher when posting something "funny". Please try to understand that I am only responding to what you wrote, noting that it can be difficult to understand someones intent on-line/in a forum. For example, "typical uptight Tartan owner" with   would work just fine.

Just a side note, I happen to like Catalina's very much. The C42 is a fine boat and one I would seriously consider buying if/when we move aboard. Now those Catalina 400 Owners such as Cruisingdad...well...nevermind  :laugher


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## PaulfromNWOnt (Aug 20, 2010)

We do a lot of seasonal small motor prep work up here. One of the simplest is to make sure you run stabilizer in your last tank of the season, then when you turn off the fuel valve you make sure the tank is full to prevent condensation. Change the oil (if applicable) and consider it done. When you are ready to use the engine again, drain the old fuel (dispose in the normal manner) and fill with fresh "premium" gas, and a splash of fuel injector cleaner. Works like a charm.

I've never really had a problem with outboards, snowblowers, or lawnmowers, but my 2-stroke snowmachine is finnicky as heck and will run like crap (if at all) unless I follow the above procedure. 

So far, I haven't disassembled a carb as part of a "seasonal" maintenance program.

YMMV


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