# Backstay CS30



## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

Im looking for suggestions on adjusters for my backstay, the chainplate is so far down its being suggested I extend it with something more stiff than a regular wire rope stay. Suggestions?


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Obviously the best would be a hydraulic with a remote pump.. On a 30 footer you might get away with a cascaded tackle with the cleated block above the transom deck level.. but as a masthead rig you'll need a safety strop as well.

If it's to be manually adjustable with a hydraulic or mechanical, then the extensions are really the only way to go but the challenge (with a mechanical) is how to deal with the torque of the adjuster on lower extension.


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

Adding hydraulics may be overkill for a 30' boat. A system that may have parts that leak, break, or overtorque other parts of the rig may not be the best idea. KISS, as suggested, with a cascaded tackle. More than likely cheaper too. We have a split backstay with a tackle that slides down to tighten the backstay on our J/36. Quite powerful.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

Faster said:


> Obviously the best would be a hydraulic with a remote pump.. On a 30 footer you might get away with a cascaded tackle with the cleated block above the transom deck level.. but as a masthead rig you'll need a safety strop as well.
> 
> If it's to be manually adjustable with a hydraulic or mechanical, then the extensions are really the only way to go but the challenge (with a mechanical) is how to deal with the torque of the adjuster on lower extension.


Thanks Ron, I've been searching Google Images and see some with non remote hydraulic that look like they just interrupted the backstay to get it high enough to operate. My rigger suggested at first lengthening the chain plate then (alternatively) adding a flat bar extension. My concern with a longer chain plate would be pulling it side to side pulling on the back stay just moving around the Boat, with a flat bar it would be toggled so no side strain. Ill settle on a design real soon and get this done. BTW I've decided to go Hydraulic for sure.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

paulk said:


> Adding hydraulics may be overkill for a 30' boat. A system that may have parts that leak, break, or overtorque other parts of the rig may not be the best idea. KISS, as suggested, with a cascaded tackle. More than likely cheaper too. We have a split backstay with a tackle that slides down to tighten the backstay on our J/36. Quite powerful.


Thanks to you too Paul, with my back stay chainplate down low on the transom with a honeycomb structure to strengthen the area the chain plate(s) can't be easily moved. I agree on a design with a split as most C&Cs of the era do a split pulley system works well right now I think my best choice is hydraulic. I have posted in the Racing forums and the CS section hoping to see what others have done. Im trying to decide this weekend so I can proceed.


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

Not suggesting you move the tang for your backstay. It would be easy to simply attach a very powerful cascading tackle to it right where it is. include a cam cleat on one of the blocks and you're done. No holes. No gauges. No hoses. No fluids. No levers. You would need to shorten the backstay an appropriate amount to fit the tackle, but hydraulics would require shortening the backstay as well. Are hydraulics cheaper? How much tension do you need? At what point does the sheerline start to curve more than the designer intended because the mast is pushing the keel towards China?


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

paulk said:


> Not suggesting you move the tang for your backstay. It would be easy to simply attach a very powerful cascading tackle to it right where it is. include a cam cleat on one of the blocks and you're done. No holes. No gauges. No hoses. No fluids. No levers. You would need to shorten the backstay an appropriate amount to fit the tackle, but hydraulics would require shortening the backstay as well. Are hydraulics cheaper? How much tension do you need? At what point does the sheerline start to curve more than the designer intended because the mast is pushing the keel towards China?


All good points, If I had the parts on hand like I did installing a cascade on my mainsheet (which I love) I might try that but those parts are not cheap, even used and I would need a safety in case something broke so I'm going with the hydraulic part (not remote) ~$1200 for my Boat (Christmas present to myself). Plus a new backstay due to the age of my rig, with a flat bar basically a toggled extension of the chainplate. Masthead rig and need the adjuster to properly measure for a new Main Sail factoring mast bend etc. I think the Hull is strong enough to bend the Mast and tension the headstay for some good windward performance.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

This is done, the results exceeded all my expectations. Nice elegant solution I think. The Harken is a very nice piece in case anyone is considering one. Not using it for a while though we are snowed in.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

Getting to know my new adjuster, sailing close hauled in 8-12 kts wind moderate to light with back-stay at about 1/2 thinking that was a good starting point and let it go completely and picked up 1/2 kt immediately. Calibrating my starting points for various conditions. Set up pointers appreciated. Question; how much can I bend my mast before causing concern. Double spreaders inline with baby stay.

Thanks Guys


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