# Sticky  Low buck projects- Let's see 'em!



## bljones

In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
Here's the rules:

1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.

2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.

3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity.

Here's one of mine:

I needed a cockpit table. Well, I, personally, didn't need a cockpit table, but the admiral did, and I need a warm place to sleep, so you can see how the stars aligned on this one. I sussed out commercially available, marine priced cockpit tables and promptly gagged. So, I thought to myself, "self, you could make it yourself for a lot less." One problem. Well, four actually. I have limited woodworking skills, limited woodworking tools, and limited time. oh yeah, and I am cheap.
So, I went to plan "c".

I spent some time eyeballing the cockpit in question:









Then I moseyed into action. I bought one of these for $29.99









A frenzy of measuring, remeasuring, cutting, screwing, drinking, varnishing, etc. later, and this is how it finished up:










Let's see yours.


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## sailingdog

I'm pretty sure that my bridgedeck cost less than $100 in materials. I can't say exactly how much the materials were since the epoxy, fiberglass, and plywood were bought for several different projects, as was the paint, masking tape and other materials used. 

The total material were about 1/2 a sheet of 3/4" plywood; enough epoxy and fiberglass to coat said plywood and tie it into the cockpit—approximately four layers on top and three underneath; enough thickened epoxy to fillet the joints and to bed the top section of the bridgedeck; and paint—two coats plus two coats for non-skid. 

Oh, yeah, had to buy a new deck fill for the fresh water tank, but that wasn't technically part of the new bridgedeck project IMHO... just ended up on the new bridgedeck.


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## AllThumbs

It doesn't count unless there is a picture dog.


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## AllThumbs

Nice table bljones. It looks like it belongs.


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## sailingdog

AT—

I've posted plenty of photos of the damn bridgedeck...don't see a need to do it again. 

BTW, there's a serious problem with that cockpit table.... can't really use it underway, since it goes through the spokes of the wheel... how the hell do you turn the wheel if the table is in place??? So, in my book, he loses major points for that.


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## bljones

Thanks, thumbs. I was kinda pleased with how the project turned out... and the addition of two more beerholders. One can never have too many beerholders in the cockpit.


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## bljones

sailingdog said:


> AT-
> 
> I've posted plenty of photos of the damn bridgedeck...don't see a need to do it again.
> 
> BTW, there's a serious problem with that cockpit table.... can't really use it underway, since it goes through the spokes of the wheel... how the hell do you turn the wheel if the table is in place??? So, in my book, he loses major points for that.


ah, SD, here is where the elegance kicks in- notice that the table is reversible. it can be mounted ahead of the pedestal when underway, and aft of the pedestal when moored. and, unlike typical cockpit tables, the slatted design allows for stemmed wineglasses to be hung between the slats, thereby lessening the possibility of spilled wine.


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## AllThumbs

sailingdog said:


> AT-
> 
> BTW, there's a serious problem with that cockpit table.... can't really use it underway, since it goes through the spokes of the wheel... how the hell do you turn the wheel if the table is in place??? So, in my book, he loses major points for that.


SD, it doubles as an autohelm while underway.
:laugher


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## CapnRon47

*screen cockpit enclosure*

Not sure this really counts as a project (other than the Admiral says it does). The creek and river we are on in NC has a major mosquito issue several times a year, so something is needed to keep them off if you want to enjoy the cockpit in the evening. I found a simple solution using a Walmart $30 screen siding that are sold for 10' x 10' canopy gazebo's.








I simply gathered up the the parts that attach to the gazebo frame with some line and I lay that over the bimini. The bottom has elastic straps that attach nicely to the bimini hold downs and it even has 2 zippered entries for easy access. Here is the Admiral enjoying the results of this 'project.'


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## brak

new thruhulls or hoses or things of that sort - lots of them, done on my own of course. LED lights too - I made them myself out of regular light fixtures and LED boards.

not much else though - pretty much any marine item costs more than $100  Like that table - I'd have to make it out of teak and just teak alone is probably right up there in price.


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## sailingdog

Brak-

The key to keeping the cost of a marine project low is to scrounge the parts and materials.


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## buckeyesailor

CapnRon47.....Brilliant.....simply Brilliant!!!!!!!!!!


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## brak

sailingdog said:


> Brak-
> 
> The key to keeping the cost of a marine project low is to scrounge the parts and materials.


I know but I have this thing for buying new stuff (except for the boat herself - she's making up for the neweness of everything else  ). I guess it's something I have to get over.


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## lbdavis

Amazingly, I don't have any pictures, but the $20 nylon hammock I purchased was one of the greatest additions I have put on Gracie. 

I hang it from mast to headstay and run a sheet around a life line and pull it into the hammock. I can then easily control swing and nap until my heart's content.


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## timebandit

Some people just use their boarding lader from the water but mine is also used from the ground when on the trailer.

Cost was the price of a 1"X 6"X 5' piece of oak the rest was on hand.

What a difference they makes getting out of the water bare foot.

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/Tmebandt/Easyonthefeet.jpg<A href="[/IMG]http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/Tmebandt/Easyonthefeet.jpg"" alt="Photobucket" border="0">


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## johnshasteen

Cheap storage for those small propane bottles that you don't know how to store. I went to Home Depot and bought a three-foot piece of #10 PVC pipe the right diameter to hold the bottles, a glue on (I know it's called weld) bottom cap and an adapter and screw on top. Put it all together, drilled several holes in the bottom and attached the rig to one of the slanted legs of the stern pulpit with a couple of hose clamps. It's lasted for about 10-years now and shows no sign of wear.


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## ckgreenman

timebandit said:


> Some people just use their boarding lader from the water but mine is also used from the ground when on the trailer.
> 
> Cost was the price of a 1"X 6"X 5' piece of oak the rest was on hand.
> 
> What a difference they makes getting out of the water bare foot.
> 
> http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/Tmebandt/Easyonthefeet.jpg<A href="[/IMG]http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/Tmebandt/Easyonthefeet.jpg"" alt="Photobucket" border="0">


Very nice. Elegant solution


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## motovationcycles

*Low buck*

I bought a Solar powered floating pool light for $6.99 at Big Lots. I hung it on our split backstay. It turns on and off by itself. It is great when there are several boats with anchor lights on at night- it makes ours stand out. That way we don't take the dinghy to the wrong boat. It also makes great mood lighting in the cockpit. I cant believe how many people have asked if we got it at West Marine


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## Coreyboy18

motovationcycles said:


> I bought a Solar powered floating pool light for $6.99 at Big Lots.


Gotta love Big Lots...they really have everything and for any occasion. Good for you!


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## Wayne25

The PO didn't have a permanent location for a fixed VHF on my Helms 25. I wanted the radio close to the mast location to keep the coax short for low line loss. I also needed some additional circuits for spreader lights and steaming/foredeck lighting I was adding. Here is what I came up with that was out of the way, can be seen from the cockpit and allows a remote mike in the cockpit


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## Trimmer

I had my US 25 home two winters ago for a bottom job and a poormans refit. I can't find one picture. :I did make new windows. New cabin sole, painted the interior etc... None of that was cheap. Ahh but I did find new cabin lighting at the R.V. store real cheap, about $15 each. I was however proud of my mizerliness when it came to the setup. I bought a bunch of 14' 2x8's and built a platform on top of the trailer. Thats where I bolted the Cosco car-port. I was working in my boat with just a sweatshirt in february.I also had two strings of lights up and ofcourse musac.The 2x8's were reused in the summer for a new deck, the carport after I freed it blew across the yard jumped the fence and killed itself.Oh well. BTW the platform was awsome, I was able to sand the entire bottom, keel and all fairly compfortably. I hooked my sander up to a shopvac and didn't even need glasses, just a mask.


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## timebandit

Ah ha!

Just the thing I need.

I see a new project for next year.

Thanks



Wayne25 said:


> The PO didn't have a permanent location for a fixed VHF on my Helms 25. I wanted the radio close to the mast location to keep the coax short for low line loss. I also needed some additional circuits for spreader lights and steaming/foredeck lighting I was adding. Here is what I came up with that was out of the way, can be seen from the cockpit and allows a remote mike in the cockpit


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## tonybinTX

Wayne -

Nice work. That'll work perfect on my boat. I've been looking for a good place to do put a panel.

T


Wayne25 said:


> The PO didn't have a permanent location for a fixed VHF on my Helms 25. I wanted the radio close to the mast location to keep the coax short for low line loss. I also needed some additional circuits for spreader lights and steaming/foredeck lighting I was adding. Here is what I came up with that was out of the way, can be seen from the cockpit and allows a remote mike in the cockpit


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## motovationcycles

*Low Buck*

This is my Nav Station. It used to be a shelf with everything hanging or sitting on the shelf. It cost me less then $100 to make it a lot nicer. It is easily removeable to gain access to the buss bars I installed behind it. I made it by first making patterns (the underside of the deck here has multiple camber). I scrounged around for enough 1/2" marine plywood. I then applied black formica (from Lowe's). By reusing the existing Mahagony fiddle rail i was able to make matching trim for the corner. The panel does not extend the entire lenght of the shelf I left a 12" space on the aft end. In this area I installed 2- 12volt outlets ,for a charging station. As well as mounting for my Wham mic charging/storage cradle. My Garmin 545 is able to be used at the nav station or in the seperate cradle in the cockpit. Both locations for the GPS are fully interfaced - NMEA for the VHF,autopilot. Audio out for the XM radio to the stereo. The GPS uses the internal antenna on deck and the remote antenna down below. Sorry for the lousy cellphone pics!


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## bljones

Figured I would add a couple more, or "What I did over the Christmas holiday."
I used up the rest of the table I sacrificed for the project that started this thread, and built a hinged double sided chartboard:








It's sized to fit standard charts folded in quarters. Course can be laid out on the clear cover with grease pencil. Next step is to build a pair of hinged stowable knees in the cabin of my boat to create a small-space nav station.
Currently in progress- a triple jointed gooseneck mount for my chartplotter:







It's still a little rough around the edges, but overall I am happy with the concept


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## sander06

GREAT projects!! Does hanging caps and underwear over port holes count as a cheap solution to boat curtains? I'm also using a $15 timer switch to turn our propane gas solenoid on and off. Never need to worry about turning off the gas after cooking.

Cheers.


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## bljones

sander06 said:


> GREAT projects!! Does hanging underwear over port holes count as a cheap solution to boat curtains?


 If it's used and yours, no. If it is someone else's, as long as you didn't spend more than a hundred bucks on drinks in a boat bar to get them to hang in front of the ports, then it qualifies.


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## rikhall

*Stern radar mount*

Hi all.

Here is one of my many current DIY projects. We will be putting our radar on a pole off the stern. I needed:


an adjustable (horizontally) platform for the radar 1/4 aluminum
a pole (about 8 feet long - thick walled aluminum 2 inch) 
and a base to connect to the boat

The pole will be additionally supported by connecting it to the stern rail in three places (so , don't worry about that part.

Here is a picture of the radar platform that will go on top of the pole.










Total cost was $36.00 for the pole and the piece of 1/4 inch flat stock aluminum and about $20.00 for the bottle wine I gave the guy who cut, drilled and welded it. Hey - what are friends for, right?

Cheers


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## Sapperwhite

That is really nice. A canvas shop would charge you your first born for a full cockpit enclosure that does the same thing. Excellent solution.



CapnRon47 said:


> Not sure this really counts as a project (other than the Admiral says it does). The creek and river we are on in NC has a major mosquito issue several times a year, so something is needed to keep them off if you want to enjoy the cockpit in the evening. I found a simple solution using a Walmart $30 screen siding that are sold for 10' x 10' canopy gazebo's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I simply gathered up the the parts that attach to the gazebo frame with some line and I lay that over the bimini. The bottom has elastic straps that attach nicely to the bimini hold downs and it even has 2 zippered entries for easy access. Here is the Admiral enjoying the results of this 'project.'


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## Whampoa

Made a new set of drop boards for the companionway out of mahogany and Ipe.



















Working on a new butterfly hatch for the forward hatch .

Regards, John


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## AllThumbs

Whapoa,

That is a sexy boat. Love it.

Eric


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## Whampoa

Thanks Eric,

One of those old "wooden" shoes 

Regards, John


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## Barquito

*De-junkerator*

$100 of paint and sandpaper. DIY baby!


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## bubb2

Barquito said:


> $100 of paint and sandpaper. DIY baby!


Well done!!!!


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## AllThumbs

Already posted in another thread but I made these fiddle blocks.

Total cost: $18.00 (raw materials, bolts)


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## camaraderie

Barquito...nice work!


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## xort

motovationcycles said:


> It is great when there are several boats with anchor lights on at night- it makes ours stand out.


How bright does it appear compared to the other anchor lights you were near?
Does it burn with full intensity all night?


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## AllThumbs

Barquito said:


> $100 of paint and sandpaper. DIY baby!


Amazing job.


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## therapy23

I don't have a pic.

My Jon boat trailer had a broken fender where the the bolt (one of two) hold it to the frame. A few times of the kids climbing into the boat while on the trailer and then pulling it back up to level + time + rust = broke.

I unbolted it, drilled two holes on the other side and put it back on.

Cost + 0.00

PS the two bolts that looked really bad with gunk, and rusty after 10 years of every-so-often being dunked in salt water at the ramp with no rinse came right off with no trouble - Why you ask? - because before I put together any fastener on a boat (or trailer) I use something. In this case cheap marine grease slopped on. The cheap stamped steel (walmart) wheels look fine too if you can see through the caked on grease, dirt, grunge and yuk. HEHE!

<edit>
OK here is a pic - new camera for Xmas and learning.


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## Omatako

This was posted before but seems relevant enough to this thread to repeat.

This was my nav station before:










I took:

Phillips flat screen monitor discarded during a company computer upgrade $0
A Radio Shack power supply gifted by another sailor $0
Exisiting radar, radios and stereo $0
Existing notebook and MaxSea software
12mm marine ply off-cuts from a local kitchen fitter's bin $0
2 12v plug fittings $13
A sheet of American Cherry veneer $26
A wireless keyboard and mouse $58
Some fasteners, glue and varnish $?
and after many hours of work, I ended up with this:










Unfortunately, the rest of my projects could not possibly qualify for the "under $100" classification, they conform too closely to the "standing in a cold shower tearing up $100 notes" classification


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## Valiente

Andre, the only change I would make to that would be to put the wood panels on hinges for easy access (changing the monitor settings, for one) and installing a positive lock on the opposing sides.

I always enjoy seeing people open up panels and seeing amazingly tidy wiring, clearly labelled. I think I have sailor's OCD.


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## Omatako

Valiente said:


> Andre, the only change I would make to that would be to put the wood panels on hinges for easy access (changing the monitor settings, for one) and installing a positive lock on the opposing sides.
> 
> I always enjoy seeing people open up panels and seeing amazingly tidy wiring, clearly labelled. I think I have sailor's OCD.


Yeah I thought of that but all the buttons alongside the monitor (all original monitor controls) provide everything I need for the settings and there really is nothing else I need to be behind the panels for unless something stops working.

I like uncomplicated things and hinges and catches just seemed to be too much trouble both initially and longer-term. The fasteners holding the panels are machine screws going into recessed nuts so can be undone infinitely without wearing anything out and opening the panels takes about a minute.

And the wiring behind is really simple and uncomplicated (but still neat  )


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## therapy23

Omatako said:


> This was posted before but seems relevant enough to this thread to repeat.
> 
> This was my nav station before:
> 
> I took:
> 
> Phillips flat screen monitor discarded during a company computer upgrade $0
> A Radio Shack power supply gifted by another sailor $0
> Exisiting radar, radios and stereo $0
> Existing notebook and MaxSea software
> 12mm marine ply off-cuts from a local kitchen fitter's bin $0
> 2 12v plug fittings $13
> A sheet of American Cherry veneer $26
> A wireless keyboard and mouse $58
> Some fasteners, glue and varnish $?
> and after many hours of work, I ended up with this:
> 
> Unfortunately, the rest of my projects could not possibly qualify for the "under $100" classification, they conform too closely to the "standing in a cold shower tearing up $100 notes" classification


Very nice.


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## pdqaltair

*Composite gasoline and water tanks under bridge deck.*

I got tired of a portable fuel tank being in the way and always too small, and of not having water for a shower in the summer. They hang from an integral flange with no mounting hardware other than a ring of bolts. Each holds ~ 12 gallons.

And the nice thing about multihulls - no risk of fumes in enclosed spaces.

15 years and counting. The gas tank resin is e-10 rated and the water tank resin is potable water rated.

Probably $50 each.


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## painkiller

OK, this is sort of cheating because I haven't done the projects yet, but I just discovered Quick Fists. They are rubber, mountable, adjustable grabbers. Off-roaders use them for attaching fire extinguishers, axes, flashlights, etc. to their jeeps.

I plan on ordering a whole mess of 'em and just going bonkers. My first task is my emergency tiller that is lying loose in my cavernous cockpit locker. I'm going to Quick Fist it to the bulkhead within grasp of the locker lid.

West Marine sells 'em, but they're cheaper on other sporting goods sites such as cabelas.com. Here's another site that has more pictures: QUICK FIST clamp in use


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## Sapperwhite

painkiller said:


> . My first task is my emergency tiller that is lying loose in my cavernous cockpit locker. I'm going to Quick Fist it to the bulkhead within grasp of the locker lid.
> 
> West Marine sells 'em, but they're cheaper on other sporting goods sites such as cabelas.com. Here's another site that has more pictures: QUICK FIST clamp in use


Why not mount it to the locker lid itself, that way you flip the lid up and the tiller is right there (provided it fits on the lid)


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## therapy23

painkiller said:


> OK, this is sort of cheating because I haven't done the projects yet, but I just discovered Quick Fists. They are rubber, mountable, adjustable grabbers. Off-roaders use them for attaching fire extinguishers, axes, flashlights, etc. to their jeeps.
> 
> I plan on ordering a whole mess of 'em and just going bonkers. My first task is my emergency tiller that is lying loose in my cavernous cockpit locker. I'm going to Quick Fist it to the bulkhead within grasp of the locker lid.
> 
> West Marine sells 'em, but they're cheaper on other sporting goods sites such as cabelas.com. Here's another site that has more pictures: QUICK FIST clamp in use


If they hold up on the bike I guess they will work on a boat.


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## ckgreenman

therapy23 said:


> If they hold up on the bike I guess they will work on a boat.


Ok, I'm sold.


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## painkiller

Sapperwhite said:


> Why not mount it to the locker lid itself, that way you flip the lid up and the tiller is right there (provided it fits on the lid)


That's a good question, Sap. I don't think the tiller would fit on the underside of the lid, but I'm not sure. I'd also worry about the weight of the tiller. Lastly, I was thinking of mounting winch handles, air horn, and maybe my flares or something under there.

Thank you, though. That's something to ponder. I'll investigate it further on my next maintenance trip.


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## motovationcycles

xort said:


> How bright does it appear compared to the other anchor lights you were near?
> Does it burn with full intensity all night?


It lasts about 5 hours full intensity. It is not quite as bright as an anchor light. We use it to supplement the anchor light and for cockpit lighting.


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## motovationcycles

xort said:


> How bright does it appear compared to the other anchor lights you were near?
> Does it burn with full intensity all night?


It lasts about 5 hours full intensity. It is not quite as bright as an anchor light. We use it to supplement the anchor light and for cockpit lighting.


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## sailingdog

You'd be better off rounding and smoothing those edges or you're going to go through a lot of rope really fast... the sharp corners will eat line for breakfast, especially on the jam cleat part.


AllThumbs said:


> Already posted in another thread but I made these fiddle blocks.
> 
> Total cost: $18.00 (raw materials, bolts)


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## broggerp

(There's not much of a visual on this one -- unless I take a picture of the water next to my boat, with no diesel slick showing!)

A friend suggested this one: a high loop in the hose can be used to eliminate fuel spillage and seawater contamination through the fuel tank vent.

My SJ28’s fuel vent was routed directly to a through-hull vent just below the starboard toe rail. By lengthening the hose, and looping the extra way up inside the aft cabin corner and back down to the through-hull, I avoid spillage from over-filling my tank, and prevent water entry (and/or diesel drainage) at extreme heel.

Way cool, and I didn’t have to relocate the vent opening, as I’d been planning.


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## painkiller

Operation "Quick Fist" was a success. My emergency tiller is now snugly Quick-Fisted to the cockpit locker "wall", out of the way yet ready to grab in an emergency.

Overall, a very good, though somewhat expensive, solution. I paid $10.99 per pair at the West Marine. I used three Fists to mount the tiller. They're slightly cheaper online at cabelas.com and other outfitter sites, but I prefer instant gratification with small purchases.

Installation was easy, except that I attached the Quick Fists with screws instead of through-bolting them. That's strong enough for my purposes. However, getting the drill in place to drive the screws was tricky, requiring me to spread apart the rubber pincers of the Fist. No big deal, but more hassle than it should have been.

I liked Sap's idea of mounting the emergency tiller to the underside of the cockpit locker lid, but it just wouldn't fit.

My wife has already warned me not to sully the good looks of our cabin interior by mounting stuff all over the place, so I have to limit my fun. However, I'm thinking the berths need some handy Mag Lites mounted in convenient locations....


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## timebandit

Cushions about $60 for materials and that includes the boom box and hanging light.

New table to come made from a folding table from a yard sale.


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## ckgreenman

Nice. If you don't mind me asking, what did you use for the materials on those cushions. How comfortable are they for sitting/sleeping.


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## timebandit

ckgreenman said:


> Nice. If you don't mind me asking, what did you use for the materials on those cushions. How comfortable are they for sitting/sleeping.


The seats (bottoms) and the birth are done with a 3/8 plywood base painted with polly sealer.

Padding is 4" foam from a water bed place covered all around with batting and covered with denim from Jo Anns.

The backs are the same but just 1" foam was used.

The material is just streched over the foam and stapled with stainless staples.

The plywood was placed with the natural bow up so that when streaching the fabric it pulled up the ends.

I don't sleep in the dinette but the seating is good.

The v-birth cushions were don the same way but with them running accross. Doing this got rid of the "sleeping in the crack" and also gave ez access to the storage area below. It also kept one side from sliding out.

Sleeps great, like on the couch.

To keep thing from sliding around a little velcro stapled to the backs works well and allows ez removal.


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## genieskip

I hope this works since I am having trouble including the photo.

This was a very low budget addition that worked very well when we cruised to Nova Scotia last summer. There is a foul weather locker in the after head of my J40 but it was always a mess and no matter how hard I tried to impress the crew on the importance of keeping organized, things always got out of hand when it got rough. 

I made the storage compartments out of Sunbrealla and 1/2 plywood. Each crew member has three of the vertical compartments, the top one for the jacket, the middle for the pants and the bottom for harness/inflatable lifejacket. There is also room for boots in the bottom slot with cutouts for the boots to hag upside down to drain. Nothing dries very well when rolled and stuffed this way but when you're in bad weather on a small boat nothing dries anyway, unless you have a heated space. Ya just gotta wait for the sun.

A couple of yards of sunbrealla and a piece of scrap plywood is my definition of cheap. (the grommets in the photo were put there because I thought I would need shock cord to keep the stuff from falling out when heeled. Turns out I didn't need it because it's tight enough to keep everything in.


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## timebandit

All wood from neighbors discarded Futon. Locker hides 6 gal. fuel tank for outboard.


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## Giulietta

*Poor man stand up blocks*

Poor man stand up blocks.

if you need standup blocks, in this case, for the Spinnaker sheets , I don't like to have springs and other systems that more than often end up snagging some of the lines, in all rearwards blocks, and cockpit area...

So, to modify your regular blocks into stand up blocks, I often use the "poor man" standing block...

since 1980 I use tennis balls underneath the blocks to keep them up, and this is a good idea for dinghies where we sail barefoot most of the time and kicking the foot of a block with your toes hurts like a devil, and because its more difficult for the block to snag and hold a line that is accidentaly near it..

So this is what I do:

You will need a block, a padeye (off course attached to the deck, cabin or whatever), and a tenis ball or other soft rubber ball that is hollow and fits the size...










Attach the block as ususal to measure the height between the block and the deck/cabin...










Take a tennis bal and cut a round hole on one side, that has to be wide enough to pass the block shaft...

On the opposite side cut a slot, that is as long as the length of the padeye. Don't be affraid to cut, watch your fingers..










Install the block shaft thru the hole, attach the shackle thru the slot underneath, and attach to the padeye..

BINGO there you have the POOR MAN STANDING BLOCK










You may also cut the ball in half if you need to get different heights...experiment..generaly the more you cut the ball the softer it will be and the more flexible it will be.

This is what I use for my spinnaker standing blocks..

And I have to admit...when you look at a boat, and you see these little tricks applied, such as the tennis ball under a block...one can imediately tell there is someone that knows what he is doing on the boat...I think it also makes the boat look really sporty and racey...

Ahh gets better, you can use many colours, as long as tenins industry paints them, and once dirty, just get a new ball.....

Good luck

Alex


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## timebandit

You want me to do what with my fuzzy spheroids


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## xort

Alex
Do you have something similar for the blocks on tracks? Mine flop over and get kicked walking the side deck.


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## kaluvic

Giulietta said:


> Poor man stand up blocks.
> 
> if you need standup blocks, in this case, for the Spinnaker sheets , I don't like to have springs and other systems that more than often end up snagging some of the lines, in all rearwards blocks, and cockpit area...
> 
> So, to modify your regular blocks into stand up blocks, I often use the "poor man" standing block...
> 
> since 1980 I use tennis balls underneath the blocks to keep them up, and this is a good idea for dinghies where we sail barefoot most of the time and kicking the foot of a block with your toes hurts like a devil, and because its more difficult for the block to snag and hold a line that is accidentaly near it..
> 
> So this is what I do:
> 
> You will need a block, a padeye (off course attached to the deck, cabin or whatever), and a tenis ball or other soft rubber ball that is hollow and fits the size...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attach the block as ususal to measure the height between the block and the deck/cabin...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take a tennis bal and cut a round hole on one side, that has to be wide enough to pass the block shaft...
> 
> On the opposite side cut a slot, that is as long as the length of the padeye. Don't be affraid to cut, watch your fingers..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Install the block shaft thru the hole, attach the shackle thru the slot underneath, and attach to the padeye..
> 
> BINGO there you have the POOR MAN STANDING BLOCK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may also cut the ball in half if you need to get different heights...experiment..generaly the more you cut the ball the softer it will be and the more flexible it will be.
> 
> This is what I use for my spinnaker standing blocks..
> 
> And I have to admit...when you look at a boat, and you see these little tricks applied, such as the tennis ball under a block...one can imediately tell there is someone that knows what he is doing on the boat...I think it also makes the boat look really sporty and racey...
> 
> Ahh gets better, you can use many colours, as long as tenins industry paints them, and once dirty, just get a new ball.....
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Alex


I like this...I'll give it a go.


----------



## RhodesSwiftsure

*Rejuvinated Seacock Handles*

About $10.00 for primer and paint. A couple of hours of electrolytic rust removal (see, for example, Electrolytic Rust Removal). Like new seacock handles. The first image shows one of the handles after the removal (top) and another before (bottom). Zero elbow grease.


----------



## bljones

Thanks, people! THIS is the stuff i am talking about- getting your hands dirty, doing it yourself, making your boat really YOURS.

Keep 'em coming.

After hours of shopping for a dinghy, I have finally decided to build a D4. I think I can build it in under 20 hours, for under $100 in materials, without cheating and scrounging through my scrap pile. I'll keep you posted if anyone is interested.


----------



## STTnBama

Omatako, 

That is pretty sweet. I've been thinking of doing something like that but I don't know where I would put the desktop tower.


----------



## ckgreenman

STTnBama said:


> Omatako,
> 
> That is pretty sweet. I've been thinking of doing something like that but I don't know where I would put the desktop tower.


Have you thought of using a laptop instead? The power requirements are a lot lower and you don't always need AC to run it. You can buy 12V DC adapters for many laptops even if they require higher voltages (like 19V). Then you can take it with you 

Just a thought.


----------



## DwayneSpeer

AllThumbs said:


> Already posted in another thread but I made these fiddle blocks.
> 
> Total cost: $18.00 (raw materials, bolts)


$18.00 of raw materials, a lifetime of experience and several thousand dollars worth of machine tools? But they are beautiful and I'm jealous.


----------



## AllThumbs

DwayneSpeer said:


> $18.00 of raw materials, a lifetime of experience and several thousand dollars worth of machine tools.


Being able to make it yourself...PRICELESS


----------



## STTnBama

ckgreenman said:


> Have you thought of using a laptop instead? The power requirements are a lot lower and you don't always need AC to run it. You can buy 12V DC adapters for many laptops even if they require higher voltages (like 19V). Then you can take it with you
> 
> Just a thought.


I had thought of that but was unsure as to where you might hide the laptop where you would have quick and easy access to it. I like things to be out of sight as much as possible.


----------



## timebandit

I have seen garden hose used to stand up blocks the same as the balls but narrower.



xort said:


> Alex
> Do you have something similar for the blocks on tracks? Mine flop over and get kicked walking the side deck.


----------



## Omatako

STTnBama said:


> Omatako,
> 
> That is pretty sweet. I've been thinking of doing something like that but I don't know where I would put the desktop tower.


Sorry for the belated reply, been out sailing

As others have said, a notebook (lap top) is the way to go. But also as others have said on the earlier thread I put the pics on, be aware that heat build-up can impair performance. I had the notebook inside my chart table, set so that the monitor works with the lid closed. It tended to get a little hot. I now have it on a pull-out drawer under the chart table (thin, doesn't get in the way) and it cools a whole lot better.

Understand that most nav software doesn't require a huge amount of computer power so you don't need a rocket ship to make it work. Older style notebooks are available used for next to nothing these days because they don't run the latest stuff. I bought a second notebook from my company (redundant) and have duplicated the one under the chart table and vacuum-wrapped it as a back-up. Cost me $150.

I run with the wireless keyboard and mouse and only have to pull the computer out to start it. Everything else works from the chart table.

Alternately, get one of those little HP small-frame computers that take up very little room. We can buy relatively powerful ones here in NZ used for under $200.


----------



## ckgreenman

Omatako said:


> Sorry for the belated reply, been out sailing
> 
> As others have said, a notebook (lap top) is the way to go. But also as others have said on the earlier thread I put the pics on, be aware that heat build-up can impair performance. I had the notebook inside my chart table, set so that the monitor works with the lid closed. It tended to get a little hot. I now have it on a pull-out drawer under the chart table (thin, doesn't get in the way) and it cools a whole lot better.


That can definitely be a problem. Most laptops vent air either from the side or the bottom, however, there are some (Macs in particular) that draw fresh air through and around the keyboard so running them closed is NOT a good idea.

I don't know what the electrical requirements are for the small frame systems you mentioned but another option (if you're into Macs) is the Mac Mini. the foot print is about the size of 5 or 6 CD Jewel cases stacked up and it will run on 12V. Just supply the monitor of your choice and bluetooth keyboard/mouse and you're set.


----------



## rikhall

*Emergency tiller - Irwin Citation 34*

The IC34 we bought has wheel steering and no emergency tiller. So - some measurements, some pictures, about $30 dollars out of pocket and some fun. Now we have an emergency tiller.










See full details at

Rik's Emergency tiller


----------



## Bene505

CapnRon47 said:


> Not sure this really counts as a project (other than the Admiral says it does). The creek and river we are on in NC has a major mosquito issue several times a year, so something is needed to keep them off if you want to enjoy the cockpit in the evening. I found a simple solution using a Walmart $30 screen siding that are sold for 10' x 10' canopy gazebo's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I simply gathered up the the parts that attach to the gazebo frame with some line and I lay that over the bimini. The bottom has elastic straps that attach nicely to the bimini hold downs and it even has 2 zippered entries for easy access. Here is the Admiral enjoying the results of this 'project.'


Just saw this. Most excellent. If you see one a Walmart, please give everyone a heads up. It's not on their website. (And the beige would match perfectly too.)


----------



## CapnRon47

*Screen tent*

Bene;
I purchased ours at a Walmart in NJ, but my neighbors down in NC wanted them also, once they saw it. The Walmarts down there had them also (obviously). They are in the camping or outdoor area and they are probably seasonal. But my neighbors found a couple of them in the store even over Xmas. So, just go look. It scrunches up into a small plastic bag as its all netting and hardly any material. It has held up really well so far, but only had it for a year.


----------



## broggerp

*Diesel Maintenance Help*

My favorite low-bucks project was re-plumbing my fuel line. I put an outboard-style squeeze bulb in the line as it comes from the tank, then a Y-valve that directs the fuel: 1, to the filter/separator (& on to the engine), or 2, to a ~2 ft. hose with a valve at its end.

By squeezing the bulb, I can easily: 1, prime the fuel system, or 2, run the first batch of (possibly cruddy) diesel out of the system & into a bottle for inspection & disposal. I always drain a few squeezes-worth of diesel before starting the engine after a period of inactivity.


----------



## BaySailerBill

We all know that storage space on any boat is at a minimum, so here's a project that I did this winter.

I call it The Galley Hutch. It's simply a 3.50" deep storage shef behind the stock table on my C-27. The supplies where one 1"x8"x8' piece of oak lumber at a cost of $29. Some stain, glue, staples and varnish that I had in stock.

No thats not my Pink bulkhead, I have the unit attached to the wall in my hottub room until I uncover the boat. It makes a great kiddy table during the Holidays.

So anyway - that's my $29 contribution - Enjoy!


----------



## bljones

Nice work! I like the hanging knee supporting the chart tube shelf.


----------



## AllThumbs

I am very impressed


----------



## timebandit

A small project but a good place for wallets and keys and cel phones.


----------



## GaryHLucas

AllThumbs said:


> Already posted in another thread but I made these fiddle blocks.
> 
> Total cost: $18.00 (raw materials, bolts)


Those are very nice blocks. If you ever do them again you can really get a great finish by vibratory or tumble polishing them. A cheap little rock tumbler can do a job you just wouldn't believe! You start with ceramic media, a little dish detergent and water, to knock off the burrs, then finish with plastic media and a little dish detergent and water, to get a polish. On stainless it'll take about two days of tumbling with ceramic first, then another two days or so with the plastic. You'll be amazed at the finish, and how little work it was! I've done lots of parts like this and it works great.

Gary H. Lucas


----------



## WinterRiver

CapnRon47 said:


> Not sure this really counts as a project (other than the Admiral says it does). The creek and river we are on in NC has a major mosquito issue several times a year, so something is needed to keep them off if you want to enjoy the cockpit in the evening. I found a simple solution using a Walmart $30 screen siding that are sold for 10' x 10' canopy gazebo's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I simply gathered up the the parts that attach to the gazebo frame with some line and I lay that over the bimini. The bottom has elastic straps that attach nicely to the bimini hold downs and it even has 2 zippered entries for easy access. Here is the Admiral enjoying the results of this 'project.'


I've been trying to find this suggestion to say thank you.

Early this spring I bought one of these screens. It sat on our boat, unused, until July when we stopped in a quiet, buggy spot. It took about 5 minutes to put up the first time, this long only because I had to tie a line around the top to keep it in place. I left the line attached when I put it back in the case. The next time it took under a minute to put up. Spectacular!


----------



## WinterRiver

This project was free.

The white speakers that came with our boat bugged me. They were too bright against the teak, and every time I looked that way they seemed to demand attention. I know, it's just a little thing. I had mentally put replacing the speakers near the bottom of my list along with the other changes I never expected to get to.










Then one day I noticed a can of black spray paint in my basement. Aha!










There were so many big projects this spring. This little one was satisfying because it was quick, simple, and easy to see.


----------



## ckgreenman

What a big difference too


----------



## jfdubu

I didn't like my instruments mounted in the front cockpit combings but when I got a quote for the pods that mount on top of the companionway (very hard to find) I gaspped , over $400.00

So I decided I could make one myself.

$8.0 for a sheet of PS insulation at HD (for the mold)
$45 West system epoxy and glass mat, fillers ( est, I already had this stuff)
$4 worth of rudder gloves
$10 assorted other stuff

many hours laying up, sanding, filling, sanding,filling, sanding and finally painting and here it is.










Instuments not included.

My crew loves it as I don't yell at them to get out of my sight line and they couldn't tell I made it myself.

John


----------



## j34035

What kind of boat? J/28?
DD


----------



## DwayneSpeer

jfdube
Very nice and professional looking. If you ever are bored and want another project just let me know. I'm sure I can find something you can build for me.


----------



## jfdubu

Great guess Doug, J28 hull #11, 

Looking to move up to the 34C or 35C when I finish with my kids tuition bills


----------



## CaptainForce

I've also been using the tennis balls in my sheet blocks for years:















'works well for us. take care and joy, Aythya crew


----------



## CaptainForce

I spent $2.58 on this yo-yo that I drilled out to replace my topping lift adjusters. My first yo-yo lasted about five years before UV damage required the refit.
































One yo=yo for a ketch rig,- those with sloops can split the cost! 'take care and joy, Aythya crew


----------



## CaptainForce

Oh, another cheap DIY,-I guess I hve a lot of "cheap" aboard! I used this heavily tinted piece of polycarbonate (Lexan) over a cut out made in my aft companionway slide. Lots of light below and a replacement of an old worn surface.








The adjacent handrail is Starboard cut to match the former teak piece that was old and this requires zero maintenance. 'works well on classic plastic with the desire for no brightwork.'take care and joy, Aythya crew


----------



## pdqaltair

*Closet shoe holders for sheet bags and other uses.*

I have these port and starboard, and one more up front for mooring stuff.

The thinner style is useful for glasses, tools, etc. I have 2 in the cockpit, and one inside the companionway.

Wrap the wheel with cotton line. Warmer, cooler, and easier to grip.

My blog is full of cheap projects. Only the new heater reached near a boat buck.


----------



## piav

brak said:


> LED lights too - I made them myself out of regular light fixtures and LED boards.


I'm going all LED inside...would love to hear how you make your own lights!


----------



## GaryHLucas

I wanted a place to put bungee cords at the base of the mast that I use to tie off the halyards so they don't slap. I found a black nylon tool pouch at the Home Depot that worked perfectly. I just put a large black wire tie around the mast and through the belt loop. About $10 as I recall.

My Bimini top was completely shot. I bought a 6' x 8' heavy duty grey tarp from McMaster Carr for $9. I slit it around the backstay and reinforced the cut with grey tarp repair tape they also sold. Everyone is surprised at how well it looks, they don't realize it is a cheap tarp until I tell them. It is still servicable after a year, and I'll continue to use it until I get a round Tuit and make a new top.

Gary H. Lucas

Gary H. Lucas


----------



## WinterRiver

We started with these basic ugly plastic reading lights. When mine broke, it was time to look around for other solutions.










At Hamilton Marine we found these for $23.99, cheap for a light fixture: LED Stalk Light

Leaving the switches, the old plastic fixtures were swapped for the new stalk lights. The new lights work great, lighting just what we're reading, not the whole room. The LED light in the center is a bit blue for my taste, but if I move the book just a little bit to the edge of the light it's warm and easy on the eyes. I really like being able to direct the light so precisely. And, since it's LED, I don't worry too much about falling asleep with the light left on.


----------



## bljones

Nice work, people!

I needed duckboards, or a cockpit grate if you will, to replace the nasty looking deteriorated weird rubber mat that graced whiskeyjack's cockpit when I got her (see pics in first post of this thread). I priced having a teak grate custom built, my daughter burst into tears when i told her she was not going to be going to college, so then I decided to find an alternative. I bought two 8' cedar 2x6s and ripped them into 1 3/4 x 1/2" strips, measured and patterned my cockpit floor, started cutting and epoxying and gluing and screwing and varnishing and $32 later, this:










is now this:


----------



## smackdaddy

bl, dude, that is seriously sweet. Great work.

I did notice, however, that that tangle of rope seems to be growing. You might want to look into that before it complete envelops your pedestal.


----------



## sarafinadh

timebandit said:


> The v-birth cushions were don the same way but with them running accross. Doing this got rid of the "sleeping in the crack" and also gave ez access to the storage area below. It also kept one side from sliding out.


 That is GENIUS! Thanks for the idea!


----------



## roline

*slide out stove....*

I had unused stowage area behind the stove. So I schemed to develop a slide system with a stowage box behind. I wanted to be able to hold the Magna cook set, misc pot/pans, cans of food etc.... I lowered the shelf to make the box as large as possible without sacrificing the stowage below. The cad drawing, start of box assembly, installation with new front plate and stuffed full of cookware and food: I also ended up adding a starboard cover over the stove which makes a great cutting board.


----------



## roline

*Nav-6000 back light repair*

Another cheap project was to repair the back light on the NAV-6000 GPS that I have. I can use the C_Map chips that I also use in the Ray color chart plotter at the nav table. The issue with the NAV-6000 is their EL back light panels die. I found EL panels on Ebay from Hong Kong for around $7 each, bought 2 and started by cutting the panel to size, taping the cut edge, taping to the clear plastic light diffuser and sliding under the LCD display. The edge connectors were soldered to fine wires and I had to make a slide in flex connector out of copper foil and mylar to fit the PCB connector. And then the acid test... Turned on the GPS and hit the back light button....


----------



## smackdaddy

Holy crap rol - that's impressive.


----------



## roline

*Recessed engine panel*

The Cal 9.2 original PO had the Universal replaced with a Yanmar 2GM20. The Yanmar engine panel was smaller than the Universal so they had made an adapter out of teak that placed the panel about 1 1/2" into the cockpit where it was constantly being kicked. I made a Starboard panel , added voltage meters for both the batteries banks (only work when the engine key is on) and recessed it so the electrical panel inside would still clear. Just used a table saw, router and drill for project..


----------



## roline

*new custom holding tank*

I've done many of the low buck dumpster diving projects...
Another problem with the Cal 9.2 is that the holding tank was a VETUS bladder under the V berth. This issues, smell, odor, stench, and low volume..
I designed a custom tank to go behind the head for the shortest lines possible. I looked for Poly tanks, but could not find one that would fit as desired, so I designed one on CAD, did a mock up with the paper backed foam board and packing tape, then taped heavy poly plastic to it and started adding layers of glass and resin, 10 layers total. ( 3/8" thick)The top access hole was cut and the insides were stripped out and the insides finished. The insides were sanded and then epoxied with a smooooth coat and fillets in all corners. ( easy cleaning) I installed with the heavy vinyl hose and redid the woodwork. I was selective on Ebay for the epoxy and cloth always looking for the best price/ deal. The plywood was from the stove slide out shelf project. A couple of pics from verifying fit and finished installation. I had to extend the woodwork outward slightly to pad the tank, an after thought...... ps, over 3 yrs since installation, no odor issues, works great, improved the wife approval factor.


----------



## roline

One mans trash is another's treasure,,, I was looking for a boarding ladder for years and preferred a permanent mounted transom ladder. The Cal 9.2 has the reverse transom, so finding a transom ladder with the appropriate bend to clear the lifeline and fold for proper water placement took awhile. It took about 6 yrs of searching to do it for the cheap(under $70 delivered). New ones were over $400 and custom built ones were quoted over $800, I love going to the Annapolis boat show each fall, but the prices are scarry.... By luck I found one listed on that EBay, again, and the lister was willing to take pics with a yard stick so I could do a check with autocad to see if it would work. Perfect it is not, I would have preferred one more stem in the water, but is works as a recovery ladder and a swim ladder. I was told a story of a sailer that fell overboard and managed to grab a sheet, but was unable to pull himself back onboard. I single hand, thus the ladder.


----------



## roline

I had a Raymarine ST 60 system but the old instruments installed were Datamarine from the late 70's. The speed puck transducer for the Raymarine system is a Hall effect with 0-12 volt output. The output from the Datamarine was a low level signal. I contacted Raymarine for assistance and all they could tell me is that their instrument required the 0 to 12 volt signal. I called the DMI repair facility and he was less than cooperative, did not want to give any repair secrets way. The PCB that I had designed and had fabricated did not work at all. I took the datamarine speed display apart and traced the circuit board and tried another version of interface circuit. I used it and modified the circuit and it worked. The custom boards were about $75 and took a week to get, nice service available. I've redesigned the PCB's should I ever need to replace the prototype currently installed.


----------



## tempest

Roline,

You are one creative, talented individual!! And some of the other projects here have really been inspiring!! They certainly have me thinking...

I've heard a term for this once..... "Imagineering" 

What a great thread! 

It would be awesome if our elected leaders were this Thrifty....we'd all save a ton of money!....but that's another issue....


----------



## smackdaddy

This is a killer thread with some killer ideas. And Roline seems to be the king of thrifty thus far. Until I can craft a completely hull out of Silly Putty and Elmers Glue - I'm in awe.


----------



## bljones

smack, you are right- the cotton kudzu appears to be slowly enveloping my pedestal. I might need to start a foundation to prevent the spread of cotton kudzu. The only cure is cash. Give generously.

hey, this could work.


----------



## smackdaddy

That's right BL...

The Pedestal Kotton Kudzu Prevention Continuum. PKKPC NGO.

Please...give generously.

Oh....my routing number is 1022257833.

Sincerely,

Some King's Son in Nigeria


----------



## AdamLein

smackdaddy said:


> Until I can craft a completely hull out of Silly Putty and Elmers Glue...


... for under $100...


----------



## smackdaddy

AdamLein said:


> ... for under $100...


..from Ebay purchases and baseball cards..

(Did I really type "completely"? Ouch.)


----------



## JimMcGee

*Low Buck LEDs*

It's usually dark when I get to my boat. After climbing down the ladder and feeling around the breaker panel for the cabin lights a few times I came up with this $6 tap light from Lowes. So far I've only replaced the batteries once after two years. I also put them in my cockpit lockers to make it easier to find things in the dark.









When I get aboard and it's time to cook dinner I found I didn't have enough light in the galley, so I put this $19 LED light I found at Bed, Bath & Beyond above the range








And two of these LED touch lights ($8) under the shelf that hangs from the cabin top over my galley sink, so I can see to wash dishes.









Everything uses batteries so there were no wires to run or splice. I used some heavy duty velcro to stick them in place, so I can undo them later if I want. A little Goof Off and you'll never know they were there.

It's not the sexiest project I've done but for under $40 these lights get used every time I'm on board.

Jim


----------



## JimMcGee

*Tunes at the helm*

Right now I have an MP3 player hooked to my Sony stereo down in the cabin. I recently picked up a Sony remote head at a West Marine Store that was closing. West Marine Price: $130. Store closing price $12.

I'm going to remove the old Raymarine Wheel pilot head from my Navpod (no longer used), put the Sony Remote in it's place along with a mini-plug extension run back down below to a y-connector wired into the stereo. Now I can unplug my MP3 from below, plug it in at the helm, flip through tunes and control the stereo without having to go below, all for under $50.

Cost:
Sony Remote Head $12
Mini-plug extension: $15
12v power plug for MP3: $19


----------



## roline

*low cost refrigeration*

One more for you, low cost refrigeration, The Sawafuji R134 unit was on Ebay for $45 so I had an idea that I could adapt it to the ice box. It appeared to be a factory replacement unit for the NORCOLD portable coolers. I cut a 1 1/2 hole for the lines to go through and cut evaporator panel supports out of starboard to mount the evaporator in the ice box. I had to unbend the evaporator and re-bend it. I bought a spare unit in case I needed a replacement. (it is destined to become a cooling system for home brewing lagers at controlled temps) The compressor was mounted on starboard to simplify the installation in the laserette. A thermal switch is not necessary, the unit is too small to freeze the contents unless used in the winter time. It measures out to be about *2.5 cubic ft.* With 3" of insulation the thermal leakage should be in the range of 18 watts/hr. Check out the reference (Consumption Guide ). To freeze 1 lb of water it takes 144Btu's. So an 8lb bag of ice contains at least 1152 Btu's. Thermal leakage of the icebox indicates that a bag of ice should last only 4.5 hrs. If 3 bags lasted me for 36hrs with a little still frozen, then the thermal leakage is closer to 10 Watts or 100 Btu's loss per hour. If it is used to cool water from 80F to 40F that would be a delta of 40F. If I had a pound of water it would take 40 Btu's to do so. To keep every thing is perspective, a 6-pack is about 4 lbs of fluids. If a hot 80F 6-pack is placed in a cold icebox at 40F, it would take 40F*4lbs=160 Btu's to cool it. With 150 Btu's/hr available, it would take a little over an hour to cool it down. 
In true life we are not that fortunate, physics plays mean tricks on us. Cooling turns out to be a differential equation with higher efficiency with the higher thermal delta, and reduced heat transfer capability as the delta is reduced. It turns out to be an asymptotic function to the true temp. The lesson for us to learn is pre-cool items going into the ice box. (also less thermal load)
Its been in operation for 3 yrs now and still can cool a 6pack with out ice, but for doing over-nighters I'll still take a bag of ice for my favorite beverages.
Power consumption is about 3-5amps, so your looking at 60 watts of power radiation, amount the same amount as a 100 watt light bulb. Running the engine put more heat in the laserette than the compressor /condenser. Other "commercial units" also use air cooling to keep the power consumption down.


----------



## bartvdv

Lack of ventilation on my boat.
I fixed that by adding this ventilation grill.
I can choose between open or closed.
Later I wil insert a small sheet of some sort of net to keep bugs out.

The white grill (inside) was found in my attic.
The aluminium outer cover was € 10 in the home diy store.


----------



## Wayne25

Roline:
How warm did the laserette become with the condenser placed there?


----------



## eherlihy

just posting cause I want to subscribe. This is a GREAT thread!


----------



## roline

*Adding a deck light*

Another MacGyver trick......If you have a steaming light and wish to add a deck light you can do so by adding a couple current steering diodes to the light assembly and a toggle switch down on the electrical panel. I did this on my 525 over 10yrs ago. The beauty is that you don't have to add additional wires in the mast for an extra circuit. The down side is that you have to select one light or the other, not both. The amp rating of the diodes used must be greater than the amp draw of the lamps. For my application I was able to use 2amp diodes due to a 20Watt deck light. The double pole , double throw switch needs current rating greater than the current draw of the lamps. The switch just changes the polarity of the voltage on the wires and the diodes due the current steering..


----------



## bartvdv

Elec's are genius


----------



## knothead

Great ideas in this thread. 
Here's a No bucks project.

I had an old inflatable that was beyond repair. It leaked air and the bottom had come almost completely unglued. I don't really need a dinghy right now but I did have a need for a work raft to get around the boat when she's on the lift. 
So, I started saving up plastic bottles. It took a few months for me and a couple of friends to accumulate enough.










made a few slits in the dinghy.










Then stuffed it as full as I could.



















Then I sewed up the slits, smeared some liquid nails over the seams, cut out the transom and lashed the pontoons together with the old floor on top.



















I tried inserting a little expanding foam to firm things up, but found it really wasn't necessary for my purposes. Besides, I didn't want to spend any money on the project.

Surprisingly, it actually works pretty well. I don't have to worry about scraping it on pilings or over the seawall, and I didn't have to haul it to the dump.


----------



## SecondWindNC

Knothead, it won't win any beauty contests, but nice job finding a use for something that would otherwise be in a landfill (for the rest of eternity, I imagine, since it would probably take eons to decompose).


----------



## tager

I bet you could get pretty good results with expanding foam. You would have to be careful not to blow the seams though. That stuff is really strong when it is expanding.


----------



## IslanderGuy

Probably do not need to worry about theft either, perfect!


----------



## IslanderGuy

roline said:


> Another MacGyver trick......If you have a steaming light and wish to add a deck light you can do so by adding a couple current steering diodes to the light assembly and a toggle switch down on the electrical panel.


Wow, freaking genius idea! I replaced the steaming light on our boat with a compo steaming / deck light a while back, but did not have the wires run for the deck light and have not gotten a round tuit to complete the job. You just saved me a bundle of time and money. Now I will need a much smaller round tuit, which I may actually get someday.


----------



## bljones

Keep 'em coming, folks. Roline, phenomenal electrical work. I am an electridiot, so I give props to anybody who understands this black magic. Knotty, glad to see a great "green" project. I gotta get some bumperstickers made: " I'm not green, I'm a low-buck sailor."


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## roline

*instrument mounting*

Installing instruments so you can see them while sailing and fold them inside for storage or when its time to drop the chute. It also allows for watching depth while at anchor at night while inside. I did this project on my Santana525 over 10 yrs ago. Plywood scraps, 2 sets of hinges and a couple spring loaded cabinet closure stoppers. When in the folded in position, I did not add additional fastening to hold them in position. I thought of adding magnets, that would have been real bright especially next to the compass!!!! The wire cables had the spiral plastic sheave over them to hold them in a neat bundle. It acted to help position them in the inward position. The main reason behind my madness of mounting the instruments on the folding doors is that I don't like to drill holes in boats........ If a hole is already there I don't mind modification of it.....


----------



## roline

*V berth extender*

Another 525 project, V berth extender. Pillow has a tendancy to "walk the plank" when doing over-nighters, so I designed a removable extender that folded up for storage. 1/2" plywood, a couple hinges, chunk of foam under $10, zipper a few bucks, and I had leftover fabric from when I re-did the interior. Just make a cardboard template and cut foam to match. Cut fabric 3/4 to 1 " larger than pattern, cut strips for sides and do the zipper section first. invert fabric, sew panels together, open zipper stuff foam... Use cardboard template for plywood, calculate height needed, design legs, cut sand stain assemble........


----------



## bljones

Roline, the v-berth extender is ingenious. I especially like the way you made sure the hinges on the leg folded the right way, so that everything flatpacked as compactly as possible. Nice work.
Your conpanionway instrument panels are also a great idea. I see how they secure for viewing from the cockpit- how did you secure your panels in the inward-facing position?


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## roline

*Almost low buck project..*

This was an almost low buck project. All components except the wood were from folks on E-Bay...The Blue seas panel was under $100, The rest of the instruments were under $100 combined and the wood was free, left over from my computer speaker project... This was a couple years in the making, just waiting for good prices on components. The new wood frame mounts with 3 wood screws to the existing structure. Should I ever decide to revert back to stock, I can with just one small hole to cover up.
I needed to add a propane controller to the stove change out. I like the Force 10 stove more than the Kenyon alcohol stove. I wanted battery indicators and a current charge and consumption meter. Outlets are nice to have, may add a 12 volt blender in the future for painkillers.... The existing 12 volt panel is the original and the battery selector was a little questionable. When in doubt, throw it out, or is it let it out...
The propane locker was also under $100, perhaps for a future posting..


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## Maverick1958

I had a broken 4 loop teak hand rail. The wood was in rather bad shape, but the ends were good. So I cut them off and made two new hand holds for the companion way.
Wood - Free
Varnish - $6.97
Cord - $2.95
Rope work - Priceless

















Rope work is becoming a lost art I would like to see more of it.

Maverick


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## bljones

I like the fancywork, maverick. Great project.


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## bartvdv

its not my idea, but it's a good idea.








Prevents the seat from shifting around and thus damaging the hinges.


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## sealover

No picture, but I use a trunk net from a junkyard Cadillac as a little "gear hammock" to keep jackets, line, and whatever out of the way but still visible, accessible, and able to air out. I don't think the junkyard even charged me for it. 

Another luxury car part that may work for a boat is the spring-loaded flip-up grab straps from the back of a 90's Jaguar sedan. They flip out of the way when not in use, but they are quite strong. I use one as a hand hold on my attic stairs. Might be a good companionway hand hold. My boat is too small to need one though. 

BMWs traditionally have their batteries in the trunk. There's a nice long battery cable running from the engine compartment to the trunk. 12' long or more depending on the model of the car. U-pull it junkyards sell them for $5 or less. If you're redoing your electrical system on a shoestring budget that might be something to look at. 

All of these parts are from cars that qualified for the "clunker" program so there's a glut of them in junkyards right now and the ones I've seen were all in pretty good shape. 

I'd love to hear about other car parts used on boats. If I'm not on the water I'm up to my elbows in engine grease. 

Keep your eye out for stuff, fellow junkyard dogs!


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## sealover

I also electrified my boat for under $100. When I bought it, the boat had no electrical system. I run my GPS and eventually nav lights off of a 12V car "jump starter" It has a cigarette lighter outlet. I spliced a 12V lighter from an old CB onto the GPS power cord and it's plug and play. The jump starter also has a tire inflator air pump and an emergency light. Those could come in handy for a trailer sailor. Convenient carry handle. It's easy to recharge -- just pull the plug out, carry it into the garage and plug it into it's charger. Mine came with a thing to recharge it from a cigarette lighter too, so you could charge it with your tow vehicle. It lasts quite a while without a recharge. I got it at Wal Mart for $59 years ago. something like this: Wagan Tech Rechargeable Jump-starter With Air Compressor 2237 in Car Comfort at JR.com (that's the first one that came up in Google, I have no connection to that site)


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## bartvdv

again not my idea, but this guy is lazy and genius

engine haul with out trouble


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## sailingdog

One of my low-buck projects was to figure out how to get more ventilation for my cabin when the boat was at anchor, yet still have a proper spot for my instruments when I was under sail. The only reason this was possible is that the instrument displays I use are TackTick wireless display.

I took a Beckson 5" x 12" port:










and mounted it in the port side of the cockpit bulkhead/cabintop, right where the instruments normally were mounted on a Telstar 28. Then I removed the plexiglass hinged pane from the port and drilled it to fit the two TackTick instrument displays. Then I put the pane back on the port, so it looks like this:










The port stays closed when sailing unless the crew has to pass something up from the galley in really bad weather. At anchor, the port is swung up, and a screen put in place, giving the boat a bit of additional ventilation.


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## Cal28

sailingdog said:


> One of my low-buck projects was to figure out how to get more ventilation for my cabin when the boat was at anchor, yet still have a proper spot for my instruments when I was under sail. The only reason this was possible is that the instrument displays I use are TackTick wireless display.


Well done SD ...

but of course I wouldn't have expected anything less ...


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## GaryHLucas

SD,
Nice job!

Gary H. Lucas


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## sailingdog

Thanks guys... it has worked out really well and the port prevents the display sun covers from getting knocked off and protects the display from getting hit.


----------



## leland515

These are some great projects- subscribed.


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## bljones

My low-buck dinghy needed a place to live. So I had to build some low-buck davits.

If you're interested, follow the build here:

Low-Buck Davits


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## drfreddie

Maverick on the rope work... where did you get that done??? I looks awesome.


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## daydreamer92

*(deadpan)*



bljones said:


> [snip]...and, unlike typical cockpit tables, the slatted design allows for stemmed wineglasses to be hung between the slats, thereby lessening the possibility of spilled wine.


So does drinking wine out of a sippy cup, which costs less than $29.99. I WIN!



Seriously, though. I like that table. It's cute! And handy.

I dunno about that tall table holder with the round spokey thing on it though. I'm so cheap, our table holder is just some horizontal stick.

:after she belatedly notices she replied to the wrong reply, she decides to make an observation on something more current!:

I also liked the davits. Unfortunately I have no witty repartee to describe my like. I do, however, know who to ask if I need tables, davits or C clamps.


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## Maverick1958

drfreddie said:


> Maverick on the rope work... where did you get that done??? I looks awesome.


I do all my own work including the rope work. I found a book and decided I could do it with a little practice. Thank you for the complement!

P.S. It you don't use a serving mallet you will never be able to get enough tension on the rope, not to mension blisters!


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## timebandit

Got an outboard with the shifter way down there?


----------



## FlyNavy

Tired of searching for that air horn when "grand-pa" in his 28 foot stink boat starts heading for you while he is busy watching little Joey bounce around on the tube he is pulling at 6 knots while kicking up a 4 foot wake and making ever widening circles? 
Try this 12V 118Db air horn solution:
Bad Boy Air Horn Harbor freight $39.99 
Bad Boy™ Air Horn
Single push sealed start switch Tractor Supply $9.99
Conduct-Tite Starter Switch, Push Button, Sealed - 1042102 | Tractor Supply Company
X feet of wire, leads for attaching to your DC panel.
I drilled a hole in the cockpit for the switch, wired it to the DC panel and ran the wires for the air horn inside the cabin to beneath the base of the mast (deck stepped). Drilled, pushed and sealed the wires and mounted the horn to the vang on the mast foot.
Needed the horn last weekend. We all had a good laugh as 8 people in the stink boat fell out of their seats and changed their focus from little Joey to that big sailboat with the huge white sails 30 yards in front of them when grand-pa swerved.
I've used this air horn on my motorcycle to keep the soccer moms and high school texters at bay, works equally as well in that application.


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## remetau

*Cigar boxes*

Some use of cigar boxes. I think we paid about $8. The first one is storage for our handkerchiefs. The second one is for shaving needs.


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## remetau

The cover that came with our Lifesling didn’t take long to deteriorate in the Florida sun. The hard shell that they sell for these was way too much. So the Admiral sewed one herself and even included the instructions:


----------



## Insails

I got a good deal on a like new mainsail for my boat BUT it needed battens..If I bought them they would be standard sizes(close to fit) and would cost between 80 and 100 dollars...So I bought some batten stock in 12 ft lengths for 15 dollars and purchased end caps for less than 10 bucks and made custom ones
The reason:








The results:


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## bljones

Nice work, people. Keep 'em coming!


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## remetau

I needed a place to mount my spear gun. The Admiral had some extra Velcro straps lying around from another project plus a couple of screws.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the curtains seen in the second pic were also made on board for less than $100 for 10 ports plus a couple of pillows out of the spare material.


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## remetau

*Engine lift*

When we got our Solar Stik we needed a new dinghy engine lift. We didn't want to pay a lot of money for one, so we came up with our own using a single tube and some line. We had a local T-Top maker in the area so we got a piece of aluminum tubing with some scrap fittings welded on. Plus we had them bake the flat mounting plate that was from scrap. Total for the aluminum was about $30. For the rest of the blocks and line, I think maybe another $40 (I can't remember it was too many beers ago).

The tube is attached via a quick release pin so we take the whole thing down and stow when not in use. We used to leave it on the Stik, but we learned that is not a good idea when it is in vicinity of a wind gen that has flexible blades in high winds, but that is another story.

Plus not pictured, we made an engine mounting board for our stern rail out of scrap starboard from a salvage yard.


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## fparry

I wondered who still used handkerchiefs and then I saw the straight Razors.

LOL, I thought that a bit strange until I reminded myself that I use my great grandfather's shaving mug and a Kent badger brush daily.


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## ccollins0601

Insalis where did you get the batten stock? I am missing a batten and ought to do the same thing.


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## Vitesse473

First off. This is a great thread. There are some terrific ideas here and I plan to use a few of them.

I spend about $700-$900 every six months on professional re-wax of my blue gelcoat'd boat. Drives me nuts because I like doing almost everything myself, but I simply can't take a couple of days off work and family to break my back waxing the boat. I've tried every wax known to man, so you exotic wax'ers need not respond. I was almost willing to sell my soul to the devil in order to find something that would work.

Simple solution. $75 bought me the PoliGlow kit. First step is a spray bottle concentrate scrub (very simple). It de-oxidizes and removes existing wax and grime. I then applied 4 coats of a crazy simple application of PoliGlow, which by the time you complete the length of the boat is ready for the next coat. OMG (that stands for Oh my God), the shine is absolutely crazy from near or far.

There will likely be naysayers responding to the use of this kind of product. If you haven't used it, keep your comments to yourself. If you have used it and aren't happy, just keep this in mind. I'm so sick of failing waxes that I've considered spending upwards of $30,000 at the boatyard to paint the boat. Even if it does fail, it'll cost me a fraction of that $30k to strip it and do over. I'm an acrylic'holic!


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## pdqaltair

Vitesse473 said:


> First off. This is a great thread. There are some terrific ideas here and I plan to use a few of them.
> 
> I spend about $700-$900 every six months on professional re-wax of my blue gelcoat'd boat. Drives me nuts because I like doing almost everything myself, but I simply can't take a couple of days off work and family to break my back waxing the boat. I've tried every wax known to man, so you exotic wax'ers need not respond. I was almost willing to sell my soul to the devil in order to find something that would work.
> 
> Simple solution. $75 bought me the PoliGlow kit. First step is a spray bottle concentrate scrub (very simple). It de-oxidizes and removes existing wax and grime. I then applied 4 coats of a crazy simple application of PoliGlow, which by the time you complete the length of the boat is ready for the next coat. OMG (that stands for Oh my God), the shine is absolutely crazy from near or far.
> 
> There will likely be naysayers responding to the use of this kind of product. If you haven't used it, keep your comments to yourself. If you have used it and aren't happy, just keep this in mind. I'm so sick of failing waxes that I've considered spending upwards of $30,000 at the boatyard to paint the boat. Even if it does fail, it'll cost me a fraction of that $30k to strip it and do over. I'm an acrylic'holic!


Oh, I've got that covered: $6 for darker sunglasses.
Sail Delmarva: Seven Sins I Will NOT Commit This Spring


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## jjrunning

Or a $10.00 bottle of rum.


----------



## KeelHaulin

Handrail covers. Less than $100 in fabric and materials. Used a standard Singer sewing machine with straight and zig-zag (old/heavy duty). I just made the pair this weekend.

Next will be coaming cover; hatch covers, and "stack-pack". The pack will cost about $300 in materials.


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## bljones

Built a cockpit table for a friend's boat. $25 worth of mahogany and pine, $5 worth of epoxy and varnish.


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## roline

Completed the Tortuga Triangle Trip in May, GPS worked without issue. Back light worked for Nav at night, almost a little too bright. Found the company out in California that supplied the multi-pin power connector and made a 12 volt power cable. It save the batteries for emergency use. I took both units and compared their performance, not much difference, both lead to G1 at the North channel to Key West.... Could add the NEMA computer interface to the cable in the future.


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## Stillraining

Here ya go..

under 20 bucks.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/66141-galley-sole-replacement.html


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## bljones

$5.99 Sunbrella remnant.
Scrap of pvc pipe.
$5.55 of line.
Being able to sleep in past sunrise, and keeping the hatch open when it rains? priceless.


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## Brunet33

Any new projects out there that we could all benefit from?


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## ftldiver

roline said:


> One mans trash is another's treasure,,, I was looking for a boarding ladder for years and preferred a permanent mounted transom ladder. The Cal 9.2 has the reverse transom, so finding a transom ladder with the appropriate bend to clear the lifeline and fold for proper water placement took awhile. It took about 6 yrs of searching to do it for the cheap(under $70 delivered). New ones were over $400 and custom built ones were quoted over $800, I love going to the Annapolis boat show each fall, but the prices are scarry.... By luck I found one listed on that EBay, again, and the lister was willing to take pics with a yard stick so I could do a check with autocad to see if it would work. Perfect it is not, I would have preferred one more stem in the water, but is works as a recovery ladder and a swim ladder. I was told a story of a sailer that fell overboard and managed to grab a sheet, but was unable to pull himself back onboard. I single hand, thus the ladder.


I added an extra bottom step, with 9' of 2" diameter double braid, tied to the last step. works well, not bad on the bare feet, and price was right....


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## therapy23

I am replaceing a stolen GPS with console and wiring damage.

Budget because I am not getting paid to do the work.


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## jrd22

Shoot, sorry to see that Therapy.


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## brak

therapy23 said:


> I am replaceing a stolen GPS with console and wiring damage.
> 
> Budget because I am not getting paid to do the work.


That's enough space to put a little touch-screen computer in there


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## Rangernewell

New cabin table made from an old pine shelf I had in the shop


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## jjablonowski

*Access to Swim Ladder*

To eliminate the need to awkwardly clamber over the fixed rail across the stern when going for a dip, we hacksawed out the center section, used 90-deg. elbows to tidy up, and fit across a short lifeline w/pelican hook.


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## Brunet33

jjablonowski said:


> To eliminate the need to awkwardly clamber over the fixed rail across the stern when going for a dip, we hacksawed out the center section, used 90-deg. elbows to tidy up, and fit across a short lifeline w/pelican hook.


LOVE IT!

I have a 1980 30ft Catalina that presents this same problem. I will be making this fix come spring time!


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## Maverick1958

Here is the new table I made for my Helsen 22. I tried to make it look older.


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## Maverick1958

Here are my new companion way doors


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## PaulfromNWOnt

roline said:


> Another MacGyver trick......If you have a steaming light and wish to add a deck light you can do so by adding a couple current steering diodes to the light assembly and a toggle switch down on the electrical panel. I did this on my 525 over 10yrs ago. The beauty is that you don't have to add additional wires in the mast for an extra circuit. The down side is that you have to select one light or the other, not both. The amp rating of the diodes used must be greater than the amp draw of the lamps. For my application I was able to use 2amp diodes due to a 20Watt deck light. The double pole , double throw switch needs current rating greater than the current draw of the lamps. The switch just changes the polarity of the voltage on the wires and the diodes due the current steering..


Use a center-off switch, and one diode and you could have one or both. The problem would be that you'd have to decide ahead of time which one would be the single.


----------



## engele

The annoying problem of halyards banging against the mast inspired me to build a more modern take on belaying pins. Take a look:

Create your own sailboat Belaying Pins


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## zz4gta

jjablonowski said:


> To eliminate the need to awkwardly clamber over the fixed rail across the stern when going for a dip, we hacksawed out the center section, used 90-deg. elbows to tidy up, and fit across a short lifeline w/pelican hook.


I'd love to do that with my boat and change to a walk through transom, unfortunately I have a pesky rudder post to deal with.


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## bryanphaas

Quick and Easy, but great looking cockpit sole.

The cockpit of my '74 Catlina 27 was in pretty rough shape; but not having the funds nor time to regrind it, I was looking for a quicker and easier solution.

Enter IKEA; cheap and easy. 
The PLATTA outdoor deck tiles cut together easily, and have weathered beautifully. Even if I want to just replace it, it took all of 4 hours; and 2 boxes.



















Total cost 80$

IKEA | Flooring | Outdoor flooring | PLATTA | Decking


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## pdqaltair

How long has the IKEA floor been in? I want to do the same. Unfortunately, it is a seasonal item and you can't order it in the winter.


----------



## pdqaltair

A few of my own:

Sail Delmarva: A Few More PDQ Tweaks

The main improvement on this tab is the leaf to make a single pilot berth from one side of the dinette table. You cannot fall out, since the table leaf blocks the edge, and it is right under the breeze from the hatch. Lifting the table is a pain--I injured my back badly this summer lifting it--and generally we only use it as a single anyway. It also makes a great pilot berth for napping since it is close to the cockpit, while the aft cabins are not. Cost: Just the hinge, since the support is a step-stool used for boarding and the leaf was ripped from an old SCAN desk.


----------



## bryanphaas

So far one season; it's weathered grey; similiar to teak. With a little oil though it comes right back.

This was it at the end of the season. (It's wet in this photo... end of season upriver trip was very rainy)









The nice part is, I can easily remove it for Winter storage. I dont think it would do too well in a Chicago winter regardless of coverings...


----------



## bljones

One issue on almost every small boat is no room for a garbage can. Another issue on "Whiskeyjack" is the amount of dead space below the galley countertop. Think, mark, cut, trim, screw together a couple of pieces of scrap luan for a lid, sand, varnish, Ta-freakin' DAH!


----------



## IslanderGuy

Nicely done bljones! I have been thinking about doing this exact same thing for quite some time, but as of yet have not gotten around to it. Thanks for sharing, looks like it will work out well, and may encourage me to get to it this spring!


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## sealover

Low buck block to run halyard to cockpit. These little heavy duty blocks (hardware store calls them pulleys) are rated at over 400 lbs for 3/8" line. $6 each.


----------



## sealover

Low buck batten? I'm curious how this will hold up. But it doesn't get any lower buck than a free yard stick.


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## GaryHLucas

sealover said:


> Low buck block to run halyard to cockpit. These little heavy duty blocks (hardware store calls them pulleys) are rated at over 400 lbs for 3/8" line. $6 each.


That block is zinc plated steel. How much are you going to spend getting rust stains off your nice white deck? The previous owner of my boat used zinc plated screws to make a couple of simple repairs. You can't believe what it has cost me to repair the damage done when the screws rusted out completely! They all damaged the aluminum or stainless they were installed in.

Gary H. Lucas


----------



## scraph

That's not a pulley! That's a sheave.


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## zz4gta

Don't know what boat its going on, but 400 lbs for a halyard isn't much.


----------



## sealover

400 lbs is half the displacement of the whole dang boat!


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## zz4gta

hahaha, oops, didn't see it was a 17 footer. No worries.


----------



## bljones

sealover said:


> Low buck batten? I'm curious how this will hold up. But it doesn't get any lower buck than a free yard stick.


Great idea- before you use it as a batten, though, give it a couple of coats of varnish to seal it, so that the existing finish doesn't stain your sails if it gets wet, and it won't rot as quickly.


----------



## NoWet

Has anyone converted one of those camping 12V coolers (Amazon.com: Koolatron Voyager Thermoelectric Cooler - P-27: Kitchen & Dining) to their icebox?


----------



## jeffgerritsen

NoWet said:


> Has anyone converted one of those camping 12V coolers ... to their icebox?


These coolers use an inexpensive thermo electric transistor to cool, however they are terribly inefficient. They usually draw 4-6 amps per hour and only cool down 35F degrees below ambient. IMHO, a better and cheaper option would be to put extra insulation in your icebox and purchase block ice.


----------



## NoWet

Thanks Jeff. Didn't think of the amp needed, and the wear and tear on the batteries. 90% of our sailing are day sails and would like to keep something cold on board between sails. Dockmates with comparable LOA (28'-30') have put in college dorm sized 120v fridges and just don't power it during day sails -- but they do get to arrive at the boat with nice cold drinks.


----------



## jeffgerritsen

NoWet said:


> Thanks Jeff. Didn't think of the amp needed, and the wear and tear on the batteries. 90% of our sailing are day sails and would like to keep something cold on board between sails. Dockmates with comparable LOA (28'-30') have put in college dorm sized 120v fridges and just don't power it during day sails -- but they do get to arrive at the boat with nice cold drinks.


NoWet, you might want to consider adding a extra battery to the house bank and get a small inverter to power the 120 volt "college dorm" refers. These small refers are pretty efficient - if you keep the door closed, and don't draw too much power compared to thermo electric transistors. Using the inverter during sailing trips should not tax the battery bank very much.

Jeff.


----------



## bljones

Before:









During:








After:


----------



## NoWet

blj...where'd the dog go?
Looks like the new box is longer than the space you put it in?


----------



## bljones

The dog magically transformed into a folding stool.


----------



## WDfrmTN

Uh...would acquiring a whole boat for nothing (except for gas from TN to Montgomery, AL & back) count?


----------



## Allanbc

WDfrmTN said:


> Uh...would acquiring a whole boat for nothing (except for gas from TN to Montgomery, AL & back) count?


Not at today's gas prices. :laugher


----------



## WDfrmTN

Allanbc said:


> Not at today's gas prices. :laugher


Well, here she is...


----------



## Barquito

> Uh...would acquiring a whole boat for nothing (except for gas from TN to Montgomery, AL & back) count?


Sorry to say, but, that is not a whole boat. It might, however, be perfect for a summer project.


----------



## AboardIndigo

WDfrmTN said:


> Well, here she is...
> 
> _...pictures redacted..._


OMG.


----------



## sealover

That'd be perfect for a viking funeral! Kidding aside -- cool project. Have fun.


----------



## bljones

WD, I like the boat on a trailer on a trailer concept!

What is she?

If you like her and she gets you on the water, it's all good. If she's too far gone to float, you've learned something, and the kids have a new sandbox or the wife has a new garden planter... in any event, you're not too deep into her.


----------



## smackdaddy

WDfrmTN said:


> Well, here she is...


My advice?

Get a good pfd...put it on...step the mast and bend on the sails...put her in the water and make sure she's not leaking like a sieve...and go for it...BEFORE YOU PUT A LICK OF WORK INTO HER.

This will accomplish 2 things:

1. You will have a freakin' blast sailing...which will inspire you to do all the work you need to bring her back.

or

2. She will sink to the bottom and you will have saved a huge amount of work - and STILL got to sail a bit.

What seems to happen often is that you get too into the restoration work and get tired of it before you ever get to sail. Sailing is what it's all about.


----------



## bljones

Low-buck Sunday at stately Jones manor:









Dock Six Chronicles: Low-buck Sunday


----------



## erps

Do the holes in the ends of the racks have a function, or are they more for looks? By the way, they look nice. Did you turn the spindles yourself?


----------



## bljones

erps, they are just decorative holes, to cut down on the visual bulk. No, I didnt turn the spindles on the pinrail myself. I bought a four foot length of pre-fab pinrail for a project a couple of years ago, and what you see is what was left over.


----------



## smackdaddy

Dude, you're pretty good at this stuff. Nice work.


----------



## Faster

We bought a new plotter/GPS this winter, and while the provided mount would have 'worked', I wanted to be able to swivel the unit port and starboard depending on what side I was steering from, and that mount wouldn't accomodate that.

So I checked out various right-angle brackets available for BBQ mounts, down riggers etc and didn't find anything that would really work well and the prices were a bit much anyway for a compromise.

I knew I had some epoxy resin and cloth at home, so dug out an old shoebox, lined it with wax paper and layed up a bracket inside one end of the box. Added a gusset, glassed that in and then let it cure. Later trimmed it to fit the plotter bracket base, and mounted it all on the pedestal pod as you can see below... Total cost zero since I had the stuff 'left over'... but I suppose there's maybe $20 worth of resin and cloth in it.


----------



## erps

Man, I don't want to visit this thread anymore. I don't feel comfortable unless duct tape is involved, and I'm just not finding it here.


----------



## Faster

erps said:


> Man, I don't want to visit this thread anymore. I don't feel comfortable unless duct tape is involved, and I'm just not finding it here.


Aahh... but there was duct tape holding the shoebox together!!


----------



## smackdaddy

Fast - that's just not right. It's too awesome...even if it is low buck.


----------



## bljones

Faster said:


> We bought a new plotter/GPS this winter, and while the provided mount would have 'worked', I wanted to be able to swivel the unit port and starboard depending on what side I was steering from, and that mount wouldn't accomodate that.
> 
> So I checked out various right-angle brackets available for BBQ mounts, down riggers etc and didn't find anything that would really work well and the prices were a bit much anyway for a compromise.
> 
> I knew I had some epoxy resin and cloth at home, so dug out an old shoebox, lined it with wax paper and layed up a bracket inside one end of the box. Added a gusset, glassed that in and then let it cure. Later trimmed it to fit the plotter bracket base, and mounted it all on the pedestal pod as you can see below... Total cost zero since I had the stuff 'left over'... but I suppose there's maybe $20 worth of resin and cloth in it.


Nice! I like the faux-carbon-fiber look. Low-buck don't have to mean low-class.


----------



## deniseO30

I've an Idea for a low buck project.. building a wind turbine that doesn't look like a diy project


----------



## bljones

Built some companionway doors- now it will be much easier to let the dogs out.
See next post.


----------



## bljones

Built some companionway doors- now it will be much easier to let the dogs out.
Dock Six Chronicles: The Old Man Lends a Hand


----------



## smackdaddy

Who let the dogs out?

Nice work...again....you meticulous bastard.


----------



## bljones

Sandpaper Cutter:

Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Tools: Sandpaper Cutter


----------



## jfdubu

Faster, way cool, very nicely done. Now I have to take a picture of my low buck project to mount the same chartplotter.

John


----------



## XPatriot

My DIY GPS mount would have involved a shelf hanger and can of spray paint.

That's way too good looking Faster, you should go into business.


----------



## bljones

I am really pleased by how the door turned out.


----------



## Faster

Lookin' good, BL.... does the whole frame and door set still lift out of the original channels???


----------



## DwayneSpeer

*Looks good*

Looks real good bl, but dang it seems narrow! I'm afraid my backsides would have a real squeeze getting thru.


----------



## PaulfromNWOnt

While trying to come up with a more aesthetically pleasing way of keeping my gas tank on the cockpit floor, I happened upon an old futon frame. By the next day, my brain had actually turned over enough to think "Hey... I betcha I can do something with that wood". Back to the pile I went, and fished out as many slats as I could pound out with my hands. A few brass screws, a little varnish (which I already had on hand), and VIOLA!!










Sorry there's no construction pics, but imagine a compound miter saw, and a few cuss words. :laugher


----------



## PaulfromNWOnt

Hello folks, I'm back at it again.

Being as my power needs on board are very low, I figured I could get away with a much smaller battery then one would normally use. Being the frugal sort, I managed to find a lawn tractor battery that still showed 12.6 volts sitting in the recycle pile. I brought the treasure home, stuck it on the charger, and considered my options for a container.

Store bought containers are nice, but they don't fit in with my DIY (cheap) nature, so I started scanning the "pit of despair" otherwise known as my garage, for a possible solution.

Cheap is good, free is better.

I managed to find something simple, cheap, and effective:

This is a photo of the finished product, and we'll add the details.









I added a notch for the wires to come out.









A small vent.









And the battery fits fine.

Yes, I know it's not a deep cycle, but my little 10 dollar solar panel should have no trouble keeping up to my limited use.

When I consider that it's running a fish-finder, and occasionally a gps it should have no trouble keeping up. I may shorten it's lifespan, but at 20 dollars a pop when they're on sale in the spring, I can get 10 years out of 200 dollars versus 5 years out of one 200 dollar battery.


----------



## johnnyandjebus

*GPS mount*

Hello all

I have been a long admirer of the projects posted here, and thought I would add my own little project. My boat is sorely lacking in electronics, a hand-held gps covers all tasks. For the past couple of years it has rolled around the cockpit. I had mentioned to my father that I wanted to come up with a way to mount the gps inside the cabin with the ability to "swing" it out into the companion way when needed. No problem he say's I have just the thing for you. A couple of days later I returned home from work to find a wall lamp mount sitting on my kitchen table. With a little work and the use of my metal lathe I was able to come up with some thing that works.




























The GPS is mounted on to a handlebar mount, normally used on a bike or motorcycle. I turned up a piece of aluminum to the correct dia and screwed it onto the end of the wall mount then clamped the handle bar mount to it. I then turned up a bolt and over sized nut. They pass thru the middle swing point, allowing me to lock the GPS in place, both inside the cabin and in the companionway.

Total cost?
Handlebar mount - 15$ (I already had it for use with my motorcycle)
Lamp arm - free, scavenged from a junk pile at a local non-profit thrift store.
Aluminum mount and bolt/nut- free, scape pieces from my own metal scape pile.

I hope the weather is windy and warm were ever you are from,
John


----------



## PaulfromNWOnt

Nicely done. I also like the other mount you can see in the pictures.

Ideas they are a formin'.


----------



## dacap06

*Low Buck Projects: The Hatchboard Fan (warning - pic heavy)*

Last Summer, cruising during the hot season left the admiral less than comfortable. The temperature was sort-of OK when anchored in wind -- it blows through the forward hatch and out the companionway, although mosquitoes flew in, necessitating the wearing of eau d'OFF. When there is no wind or when tied to a pier, air flow isn't so good. I resolved to look for a cheap solution.

Last Autumn, I ran across this item at Lowes on sale for half price -- $20.00.








Now that caught my eye immediately because it was battery powered as well as wall-powered. It looked good! Two speed and off, runs on 8 "D" cells or a wall wart. Even better, it pivoted up and down in its frame. Hmmm ... 12 volts. So I bought it.

I thought about that for a month and realized it was the answer to my complaints, but not in its present form. I wanted something that could pull air in or push air out, and I wanted to pull air through the screened portlights, not via the open hatch -- and i wanted to push air out whenever possible since mosquitoes can't fly upstream.

I, ahem, hatched an idea. Time to brush off the old EE and wood working skills. I came up with this:








It is a double height hatchboard with the fan mounted in it.

First, I needed to disassemble the fan. The frame held in place a useless, light duty single pole, double throw slide switch that had no mounting unless I wanted to redo the circuit board that set up the two speeds. And the frame also held the circuit board in place w/o screws. That will take some thinking. The fan itself turned out better than I hoped. I could leave it in its cage and use the axis and mount as-is! And of course, I could use the wall-wart to convert from 110V A/C to 12V D/C when I was hooked into shore power.

Next, I needed to figure out what parts I would need. I need a box to hold the circuit board and switch to keep them dry, a way to mount the fan on the wood, a way to connect the power to the fan (either 12V directly from the boat's distribution system or 110V wall power via the wall wart), and wiring for the power. I dug through old parts and found a DPDT screw-in toggle switch, it is overkill but I had it already. I also found some old exterior 1/2" plywood lying about the house. I bought the stainless steel nuts, bolts, washers, a typical plastic electrical box and blank plate, a 12 volt male end to fit into my boat's 12 volt outlet, the power jack, both male and female, so I could use the wall wart as-is.

Next came the manufacturing. I cut the plywood to size based on my middle two hatch boards, added some trim I had lying about to fill the edges out to 3/4" as my hatchboards are, then finished it with stain and 3 coats of floor varnish. Then I mounted the fan but oriented the axis vertically instead of horizontally.

I can turn it a full 360 so it can blow in or out. I can aim it anywhere in the salon -- cool the cook, blow toward the settee, or toward the dinette. Only the quarterberth is in its shadow. Mostly, I will have it blowing out and drawing air through the screened portlights -- no bugs!









Here are pics to show how I mounted everything in the electrical box and the two power sources -- 12 V distribution (which at the time did not yet have its power jack) and wall wart. I used a hot glue gun to tack down the circuit board to the side of the plastic electrical box. Wiring was easy. I just had to duplicate what already existed while it was in the old frame.



























I had an occasion to try it a couple of weeks ago. It cooled the boat down to ambient temperature in about an hour on high. So here I am the next morning, well-rested and satisfied with my work. I didn't keep strict track of my expenditures, but it was around $50.00.


----------



## bljones

Nice work, dac!
Now, that's what this is all about- do what you gotta do with what you gotta do it with.
(That sounds like a CSN song)


----------



## arf145

Hey, nice, dacap! Do you know how many amps the fan pulls?


----------



## SHNOOL

How about cheap lifeline cushions?


----------



## SHNOOL

Low dollar tiller tamer.


----------



## dacap06

arf145 said:


> Hey, nice, dacap! Do you know how many amps the fan pulls?


Yes, around half an amp on high.

Update: Actually, I think it is less than half an amp, although I have not measured it (don't have a magnetic field strength meter). 8 "D" cell batteries are supposed to last 12 hours.


----------



## dacap06

*Trash Collection*

I have one final low-buck project. In the engineering world, simpler is always better, and this one is so simple it is trivial. It is also not very original, but I am proud of it nonetheless. This one is less than a dollar but maximizes the utility to cost ratio, not to mention makes my life a little greener.

I needed a place to collect trash while cruising, preferably near the galley. My 30 footer does not have much foot room, as you can see from the picture below.









The logical place to collect trash is in that inset under the sink. But a trash can would bounce around and tip over, so it would need something to keep it against the bulkhead.

Simultaneously, I got to thinking about all the plastic grocery bags I keep collecting. It's a pain remembering to take them to recycling. Hmmmm ... the greenies tell me that reuse is better than recycling, so on the next trip to the hardware store I bought a couple of cup hooks. I attached them here:









This works particularly well. The bag stays put even when we're heeled over hard to starboard. 









Also worth noting, although I don't have a picture of it, is that I saved one of those little boutique Kleenex boxes and now a fold my plastic grocery bags and stuff them in it. Instant dispenser! Even better, the bags take up little room this way.


----------



## MacGyverRI

2, 1 1/4" x 4" x 6' pieces of Mahogany for $60 or so, a table saw, sander etc. and you have a behind the fold up table Bar/China rack for extra storage. 

I lost no room since it now comes out flush to the mast and just had to move the "hook" (visible top left) to keep the table up to the side from the orig. bulkhead mount. Then you put the bottom of it where the hinge center was for the table and screw the hinge into the front side of the rack to keep the table at the orig. height. 

edit to add;
Finished size is 36" H x 17" W (ripped 16" x 1/2"shelves) so the project had enough from just 2 pieces of Mahogany. I also use Tung Oil on my interior rather than Spar Varnish or Teak Oil, it lasts a long time inside.


----------



## bljones

dacap and SHOOL, welcome aboard. Simple and Cheap + elegant, in my book. Keep it up!

Macgyver, dude, you are living up to your alias! Nice work!

Keep 'em coming, folks!


----------



## htmagic

MacGyverRI said:


> 2, 1 1/4" x 4" x 6' pieces of Mahogany for $60 or so, a table saw, sander etc. and you have a behind the fold up table Bar/China rack for extra storage.
> <SNIP>


Nice!

That gives me some ideas to use on land as well! 

Take care,

MagicBill


----------



## Sublime

Since some people have been complaining about the stern rail seats, I needed some cushions. I have some left over sunbrella from making my mainsail cover (which did not qualify for this thread as its costs were $60 over the maximum). 
$1.97 for pipe insulation foam and $4.96 for velcro from Home Depot. I had all the other stuff.

It would have taken some time to figure out a pattern to match the curve and I was feeling lazy. So they're just straight tubes. When I can find my protractor and my pocket protector, I might be up to making a better pattern. There is no puckering when viewing the cushions from outside the boat so that saves my self confidence (whew!).
Hopefully it'll get people on those seats and out of the cockpit. Now I need to figure out a walk through mainsheet since it likes to whack unsuspecting innocents who ignore "gybe ho!" upside the face.










Oh! I guess I should find the cup holders else the new cushions will remain unused until a patron can rest their beer comfortably by their side (bites knuckles)!









Up next is something in progress. It's for holding my companionway hatch boards. They'll hold the boards vertically against a bulkhead. It's cedar, a reason to use my router, and held together with dowels, chewing gum and carefully triangulated dental floss (I kid, I kid...except for the dowels). Total cost so far is $2.47 + tax. Upon reviewing my design (I picked up all 4 hatchboards at once-more hefty than I had figured), I will make some gussets to support the floor from underneath. I had the stain and finish left over from a cabinet I had made. It matches the interior of the boat just perfectly!

I need to get the screws for mounting. That could double the cost of this project. Craps! Maybe I can find a coupon.


----------



## arknoah

PaulfromNWOnt said:


> While trying to come up with a more aesthetically pleasing way of keeping my gas tank on the cockpit floor, I happened upon an old futon frame. By the next day, my brain had actually turned over enough to think "Hey... I betcha I can do something with that wood". Back to the pile I went, and fished out as many slats as I could pound out with my hands. A few brass screws, a little varnish (which I already had on hand), and VIOLA!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry there's no construction pics, but imagine a compound miter saw, and a few cuss words. :laugher


I had much the same idea for my boat. Can you list some of the ways you measured and put this together so I can have a bit more into to get started on my own? Yours looks absolutely great!


----------



## leogallant

*New Cabin Door and AC Housing*

So, recently, my son and I did a little work on his Newport 30.
1. For liveaboard, he needed an easier in/out door than the 3 planks. Hinged door made of oak and plexi, slides into the companionway frame. $65
















2. To accomodate an AC unit on the forward hatch, we built a housing (not including the AC unit) out of plywood we already had from a cabinet project. $0, white paint and laquer, $10


----------



## dacap06

How very odd! I posted a reply and question once and it seems to have disappeared. This is around the sixth time in the last week the site has eaten one of my posts. Now, three of them were during the time of troubles and time-outs, so that is understandable - but I do not understand the three in the last few days.
======================================

This hatchboard project is brilliant, Sublime! How do you intend to affix the structures to your bulkhead?

Tom



Sublime said:


> Up next is something in progress. It's for holding my companionway hatch boards. They'll hold the boards vertically against a bulkhead. It's cedar, a reason to use my router, and held together with dowels, chewing gum and carefully triangulated dental floss (I kid, I kid...except for the dowels). Total cost so far is $2.47 + tax. Upon reviewing my design (I picked up all 4 hatchboards at once-more hefty than I had figured), I will make some gussets to support the floor from underneath. I had the stain and finish left over from a cabinet I had made. It matches the interior of the boat just perfectly!
> 
> I need to get the screws for mounting. That could double the cost of this project. Craps! Maybe I can find a coupon.


----------



## heinzir

*$1 Dinghy Bilge Pump*



I picked up several of these water guns for my grandkids at the dollar store. They have great fun squirting each other but Jade came up with an ingenious use: she used it to suck out the pint or so of water sloshing around in the bottom of her kayak. Since then, we've used them on both of our dinghies and on Chiquita as well as the kayak. Chiquita does not really have a deep bilge so any water that makes its way aboard sloshes all over. I have both an electric and a manual bilge pump aboard but neither gets every last drop. This stick type water gun is just the ticket.


Jade Rodriguez, inventor of the $1 bilge pump


----------



## Sublime

dacap06 said:


> This hatchboard project is brilliant, Sublime! How do you intend to affix the structures to your bulkhead?
> 
> Tom


I can get to the other side of the bulkhead so I'm going to run screws through and into the holders with some wood to help "spread the load". 
The last few pieces of this project are curing. I used a drill press so I have straight holes. I've got the day off tomorrow so hopefully I'll get to install them. If I manage to get them level, I'll be quite proud. If not, then I did it on purpose to help water drain.

Meanwhile, with my 3am start to work, I'm a bit useless this afternoon. So, I decided to take care of a safety issue one of my other boats, s/v Penelope, while under the comforts of airconditioning and a ceiling fan. She's a 19' dinghy-self righting for the most part, stable enough to stand on the gunwale but a capsize resulting in me thrown into the drink is certainly possible. Her freeboard is tall enough that it'd take some grunt work to haul yourself over if you happen to be tired. 
Also, I've got some friends with kids whom Penelope has just charmed the socks off of. They'd like to go for a swim and not have to be yanked back in.

However she has some classic lines and I wasn't keen on the idea of adding a metal or plastic ladder, ruining her postcard good looks. With $20 worth of rope, I wove a two rung ladder which goes over a cleat to hang and stows quite nicely.

This'll do.


----------



## dacap06

Sublime said:


> With $20 worth of rope, I wove a two rung ladder which goes over a cleat to hang and stows quite nicely.


Clever, and nicely done, Sublime!

I'm sorry to see you have some repair to do, though. It would appear that your outboard motor has broken through the hull where you stowed it.


----------



## MacGyverRI

that's why he made the ladder


----------



## Sublime

dacap06 said:


> Clever, and nicely done, Sublime!
> 
> I'm sorry to see you have some repair to do, though. It would appear that your outboard motor has broken through the hull where you stowed it.


That hole is for letting the water out. :laugher

Actually it's a handy little open trunk there which lets you work on the motor without having to hang out over the transom. You've got deck on either side of the motor. You could sleep there and cuddle the motor all night long if you so weirdly desired. But it's quite useful when the powerboats come by with a big wake and toss you about the boat.  Also helps dropped tools go "ker-thunk" versus "ker-plunk".


----------



## Sublime

Hatchboard holder complete.


----------



## PaulfromNWOnt

arknoah said:


> I had much the same idea for my boat. Can you list some of the ways you measured and put this together so I can have a bit more into to get started on my own? Yours looks absolutely great!


All measuring and test fitting was done with the gas can in place.

I first measured the depth, leaving a little room for the Dri-Dek flooring that I plan to install. The only board that I actually 'ripped' was the bottom board on the front, the rest were left full width.

I made a basic framework with 4 short boards screwed together, and put it in place over the gas can.

I took a measurement across the back of the aft-most section, then played with the miter saw until I had the angle. Once the angle was right, I cut the board to length using the miter saw and paying attention to get the direction of the miter right. After that, it was measure, cut, attach, measure, cut, attach until it was done.

Some light sanding, and a heavy dose of spar varnish finished the project.

It is not attached to the boat in any way (except gravity) and removes in one piece. You can't stand on it, but it is surprisingly sturdy resting on the gas can. I got lucky enough with size that I can also carry 2 one pound propane cylinders under it to run my BBQ.

Edit: Thanks for the compliment.


----------



## rikhall

We like to swim, we don't like climbing over the stern rail, we wanted the strength of the rail. Here is my "Stern Rail Cutaway"










Full description

Rik


----------



## dacap06

Sublime said:


> Hatchboard holder complete.


Very, very nice! Well done.


----------



## bljones

Cooler cosmetics.
Free cooler found in the trash needed new shelves and a little trim.

Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Cooler Clean-up


----------



## montenido

Great stuff everybody. Okay, I have two low-buck projects. The first is a home-made mount for my steering wheel, allowing it to be removed for more cockpit room. This object costs about $125 if bought from Edson. My cost? Nada for the big parts, about $1.00 for the stainless eyebolt. To cover the now bare hub at the pedestal, I use a 1 1/2" long piece of pipe insulation, also free.

The second low-buck project is to repel birds. It seems that a gaggle of some type of birds had adopted my lifelines as their daily perch, with expected results. So, for about $12 I bought a pack of 100 dvds at Costco. Made a cut on one side into the middle using my band saw, and slipped one over the lifeline between each stanchion ( 6 per side). No more bird and their sh#t. Using a band saw aviods splintering or cracking the fragile plastic.

Enjoy.

Bill


----------



## littlelizzy

Sorry no photos yet but Ace Hardware has the battery powered O2 cool fans for around $5.75 each, a 10 dollar discount off ebay.


----------



## boatpoker

*Cheap LED's*

A whole bunch of step by step photos of how I converted all my lights to LED's for $10.00 each


----------



## erps

when you say $10.00 each, is that $10/light, or $10/package of four? How does the brightness of your conversion compare to the original lights? Nicely done BTW.


----------



## boatpoker

erps said:


> when you say $10.00 each, is that $10/light, or $10/package of four? How does the brightness of your conversion compare to the original lights? Nicely done BTW.


$40.00 for a package of 4. They have several different types. They are much brighter than our old incandescent lights. We had originally planned on four under the hardtop and found they were so bright, we put in only two.


----------



## bljones

Koozie katcher:

Dock Six Chronicles: Low-buck Project of the Week #3


----------



## erps

Nice BL. Plastic pipe is a pretty handy material for makin' stuff with.


----------



## Ritchard

Well thanks to all you Mad Scottish Geniuses for this thread. Entertaining, inspirational, and informative.


----------



## Tim R.

We were always having problems with the springs that hold up the icebox lids. I converted to gas struts as a low cost solution.

Icebox Lid Strut


----------



## StormBay

For us, we had problems with mosquito's and our boat had screens for the ports but not for the hatches. So, a trip to home-depot produced some screen and frame material normally used for home windows. The plastic corners that hold the frame together had to be rounded off in order to properly fit in the hatches, and the screens are held up using removable wooden dowels set into the hatch molding. All together about two hours work for all 4 screens and maybe $40 total.


----------



## arknoah

PaulfromNWOnt said:


> All measuring and test fitting was done with the gas can in place.
> 
> I first measured the depth, leaving a little room for the Dri-Dek flooring that I plan to install. The only board that I actually 'ripped' was the bottom board on the front, the rest were left full width.
> 
> I made a basic framework with 4 short boards screwed together, and put it in place over the gas can.
> 
> I took a measurement across the back of the aft-most section, then played with the miter saw until I had the angle. Once the angle was right, I cut the board to length using the miter saw and paying attention to get the direction of the miter right. After that, it was measure, cut, attach, measure, cut, attach until it was done.
> 
> Some light sanding, and a heavy dose of spar varnish finished the project.
> 
> It is not attached to the boat in any way (except gravity) and removes in one piece. You can't stand on it, but it is surprisingly sturdy resting on the gas can. I got lucky enough with size that I can also carry 2 one pound propane cylinders under it to run my BBQ.
> 
> Edit: Thanks for the compliment.


Thanks Paul. I'm going to try this out over the winter.


----------



## Siamese

Oh, Oh, Oh,...I know a low buck project.

This one's been on my boat for five season's now, and works great.

When my boat was new, I didn't want to drill holes in it for those soft plastic winch handle holders that you see on so many boats. Those things seem to get dirty and stay that way. 

I use about 2" diameter PVC pipe and cut it to about a 12 or 14 inch length. I attach them to my stern rails, (near my winches). I just use a 1/4 inch drill bit to put a couple holes in them and use nylon cord to tie them in place. They look better than you might think. Acetone works as a solvent to remove the lettering that's stamped on the pipe. 

I have one by each of the genoa winches on my Catalina 309, plus 2 more attached to the dodger frame for the winches on the cabin top. 

After five Michigan seasons they're still clean looking and haven't yellowed.


----------



## Faster

You could attach those with 'zap straps' too... tighter and tidier...



Siamese said:


> Oh, Oh, Oh,...I know a low buck project.
> 
> This one's been on my boat for five season's now, and works great.
> 
> When my boat was new, I didn't want to drill holes in it for those soft plastic winch handle holders that you see on so many boats. Those things seem to get dirty and stay that way.
> 
> I use about 2" diameter PVC pipe and cut it to about a 12 or 14 inch length. I attach them to my stern rails, (near my winches). I just use a 1/4 inch drill bit to put a couple holes in them and *use nylon cord to tie them in *place. They look better than you might think. Acetone works as a solvent to remove the lettering that's stamped on the pipe.
> 
> I have one by each of the genoa winches on my Catalina 309, plus 2 more attached to the dodger frame for the winches on the cabin top.
> 
> After five Michigan seasons they're still clean looking and haven't yellowed.


----------



## erps

> For us, we had problems with mosquito's and our boat had screens for the ports but not for the hatches. So, a trip to home-depot produced some screen and frame material normally used for home windows.


I'm not familiar with this framing material. You can make your own frames to fit?


----------



## Faster

Ray... hereabouts Home Depot and other hardware stores often stock screening kits.. the screening, straight pieces of extrusion which you cut to size and then corner pieces that insert. The screen is then placed over the frame and an o-ring type material pressed into the extrusion to hold it in.. Sounds like StormBay had to trim the rather square corners to fit.. it's a good looking result, isn't it?


----------



## erps

> Sounds like StormBay had to trim the rather square corners to fit.. it's a good looking result, isn't it?


It's a cleaner installation than what we're doing, a fabric screen frame with velcro. I'm installing a grab handle into the frame of our salon hatch and I was wondering how I was going to work around the velcro screen for that particular hatch. I think this just solved that problem.


----------



## bljones

Outboard work stand:










Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Tools: Outboard Motor Work Stand


----------



## AdamLein

bljones said:


> Outboard work stand:


Nice. I have a similarly homemade/ghetto outboard stand, but I bet that little shelf is worth its weight in gold.


----------



## Allanbc

I just did a "low bucks" project on my boat. I mostly used what I had on hand but did spend a dollar at Walmart. I went down to check on my boat and found that a Great Blue Heron has been hanging out on my transom. The evidence of his repeated visits was all over one side of my cockpit. It is common to see people hang things like plastic owls, CDs, monofilament line, etc around their boats but I wanted to build a better mousetrap.

I chose CDs as my bird deterrent. I used cheap CD-Rs that I had. I wanted them to really spin well to annoy the birds. I made a trip to Walmart and picked up a packet of barrel swivels from the fishing section. I then ran a light nylon cord from the back stays to the end of my mizzen boom. I ran a large nylon cable tie through the spindle hole and barrel swivel and left it loose around the CD. I then used a small nylon cable tie to attach to the nylon cord. In even the lightest breath of air, the CDs wiggle back and forth. In even a light breeze, the CDs spin wildly because of the swivel.

We'll see how this works.


----------



## StormBay

Recently built a new table for our cockpit (and by built I mean drilled 6 holes, glued and Cetoled). The table is made from an old Purple-heart cutting board I bought a long time ago (from Marshalls) that was never really used as it would not fit in our sink when we needed to wash it. I also inset 2 cup holders, which I priced matched at $1.15 each from West Marine, down from there original outrageous $7.59. The mounts are original and the table can fold down and out of the way when not in use.


----------



## bljones

Storm, I like it!


----------



## bljones

Okay, not strictly a boat project but... 
boatshelves:


















I'd rather build my Christmas gifts than go to the mall.


----------



## Faster

Nice, bl..... here's mine for the cost of a sheet of doorskin, and the set of lights... the rest is a recycled futon frame.


----------



## sep2x

We just recently finished our floors in our Downeast 32'. The original teak & holly had rotted out and the subfloor was impossible to keep clean. Total cost was less than $50, and it looks pretty good if I do say so myself!










Full write up and photos are at MaineLiveaboards | Where Mainers living on their boats can connect.


----------



## Faster

Interesting choice of material. It will be interesting to see how well it holds up.

How thick was it, and is it interlocking or did it glue together?


----------



## sep2x

It was pretty thin, about 1/8th inch I'd say. Basically two pieces of vinyl stuck together, overlapping about an inch on each side with sticky stuff so they connect together. You can cut it really easily by scoring with a utility knife and snapping it, it breaks perfectly. We had some curves to cut which were more challenging but still a utility knife was all it took.


----------



## wmmulvey

boatpoker said:


> A whole bunch of step by step photos of how I converted all my lights to LED's for $10.00 each


GREAT POST

This will be my winter project

BILL
ESPA
1969 MORGAN 30


----------



## Bene505

treilley said:


> We were always having problems with the springs that hold up the icebox lids. I converted to gas struts as a low cost solution.
> 
> Icebox Lid Strut


Tim,

We have currently 2 lids that have nothing to hold them up. It's a perfect opportunity for a low bucks project. The lids are very heavy.. How did you know what rating strut to use?

Here are pictures of our lids. (Sorry, one's not a very good picture.)



















Regards,
Brad


----------



## Tim R.

Bene505 said:


> Tim,
> 
> We have currently 2 lids that have nothing to hold them up. It's a perfect opportunity for a low bucks project. The lids are very heavy.. How did you know what rating strut to use?
> 
> Regards,
> Brad


Brad, the struts that Napa sells typically are designed to hold up very heavy hatches on cars. I purchased the lowest rated strut to try out and then exchange with the next higher one at Napa if necessary. I told this to the Napa guy and he said it would not be a problem. As it turns out, I picked the correct strut the first time and did not need to exchange them.

I had also done this with a previous boat(Pearson 28) to holdup the lazerette lids in the cockpit.


----------



## Bene505

Thanks Tim.

With your quality workmanship, you deserve to strut around the marina anytime. 

This is now high on my winter priority list.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Ritchard

Inspired by you marvellous cheapskates, I undertook a low buck project, not the first, and certainly not the last, but I think this one is noteworthy.

Among the items needing renewing on my new-to-me '79 Endeavour 32 is a cutlass bearing. On the Eandeavour, the cutlass bearing (1-1/2 OD x 1" ID x 4 inch length) is carried in a bronze strut. Everyone told me that the way to do it was to remove the propshaft and sort of cut out the bearing from the strut. I have an (lazy) aversion to taking more stuff apart than necessary, so wasn't keen on the idea of removing the shaft. Then when I measured, I found that to take out the prop shaft, you have to drop my rudder. My response to that idea is "no freakin' way." I went looking for an option, and came up with this tool:

Strut-Pro Cutless Bearings

Now this Strutpro tool looks like an excellent tool set for a marina or maybe a club to have but a little rich for my single use. So I decided to make the tool. I drew up the bits, and sent them to my blacksmith buddy, but even when my buddy gives me a super deal, it was still going to be a little costly. Then I thought that I could maybe make the tool out of off-the-shelf parts. Here's what I came up with:










I know, it's a little unclear, but it's just plumbing parts, more or less. There are 4 1-1/2" pipe flanges, 2 step down Hex bushings (1-1/2 to 1-1/4", and 1-1/4" to 1" - it might be possible to find a 1-1/2' to 1" instead and save three bucks) there is also a 1" x 5" nipple fitting, with one end of the threads cut off. Fitting it all together is two chunks of 1/2" all thread, 6 nuts, 10 fender washers, and two 5/16" x 1" bolts with a couple of nuts and 4 washers holding together the "active" end. All 4 of the flanges have had two of their 4 holes drilled out to 1/2" to accept the rod.

Here it is laid out a bit:










Two of the flanges have been notched to fit over the shaft (forward of the strut) for the static side of the tool. The threaded bit of the flange nests perfectly on the end of the strut - though took a tiny bit of fiddling to get set properly.










The Active end of the tool has that piece of pipe nipple that slides over the propshaft perfectly, and is thick-walled enough that it engages the bronze part of the cutlass bearing.

To use, put the pair of notched flanges over the shaft above the forward end of the strut. Put the last inch or so of threaded rod through them, and bolt them up tight. Set the now paired set of notched flanges against the forward end of the strut, so that the threaded flange encircles the end of the strut. Slide the active end of the tool over the shaft from the rear end, and slide the free ends of the threaded rods though the paired flanges. Then slide the active end of the tool up tight to the cutlass bearing. Install three oiled washers, and the nuts. Snug up the nuts, double triple check that the static end is sitting correctly. If it is, start cranking on the nuts.

It took about 30 or 40 minutes start to finish to remove the bearing from the strut, much of that fiddling with getting the tool together and placed properly. A helper would have been very useful, but my teenaged sons would rather die. I oiled the active end washers and the threaded rod to help things along a bit. It might have been less difficult had I removed the set screws. They were so obscured by layers of paint, I didn't know they were there.

Once the bearing was out - that is, pushed out of the strut toward the bow, but still on the shaft - I slit it with a cutting wheel on a dremel tool. Which died.

Now I will get a new bearing, and use the same tool to force it back in.

If I were to make this tool again, I might go up one size in the threaded rod. I am not sure if the cheapskate design could be reworked for different sized shafts and bearings. I felt really lucky that both the pipe nipple, and the flanges, were perfect fits for my particular scenario.

Total cost for the tool? $50 more or less.

I am sure I have not been clear enough. Here is a video from Strutpro to show you what I have tried to emulate:


----------



## bljones

Ritchard, that's genius. 

treiilley, great idea. If you wanted to make it even lower buck, hit up a junkyard and scavenge the parts used.


----------



## Ritchard

BL, not only cheaper, quite possibly better parts. These Home Depot Chinese pipe fittings are shockingly soft. You'd not really want to use them for something mission critical.

Edit to add: I thought BL was talking to me With respect to junkyard parts.


----------



## therapy23

Ritchard,

That is really good.

Sorry it cost you a dremel too.


----------



## kwaltersmi

Several years ago I replaced a broken tiller handle on a Helms 25 with the handle from a wheel barrel. The oak wheel barrel handle was the perfect length and strength and also already had a nice hand grip section. You can see the details here.


----------



## Ritchard

therapy23 said:


> Ritchard,
> 
> That is really good.
> 
> Sorry it cost you a dremel too.


It was an off-brand that served for ten years. It owed me nothing.


----------



## peterchech

The "perfect circle" cutter for a router, made from scrap 1/4" ply and a nail. Used it to install some deckplates this weekend.



















The nail is banged through the plywood, measured from the outside of the router bit to the nail at a distance equaling the radius of the circle wanted. A small pilot hole is drilled in the center of the area to be cut, and the bit is either plunged or a larger hole is drilled on the periphery of the circle to be cut and the bit is plunged through that hole.

This is an old trick I'm sure, but makes perfect circles every time.


----------



## py26129

*$15 Anemometer*

Sorry, no pics. I built a cheapie anemomenter for our previous boat. it consisted of 3 black plastic 1tbl measuring spoons ($3.00 at the dollar store), one black spray paint can lid (free), a bearing out of a dead VCR (Free), a little magnet that I had and a digital bike speedometer ($10).

Assembly consisted of cutting 3 slots into the paint can lid and gluing in the measuring spoons with hot melt glue. Next glue the magnet to the inside of the paint can lid, near the bottom and the bearing carefully glued into the center of the cap with lots of hot melt glue.

Next I mounted the whole thing on a shortened stantion which had a BBQ rail mount fitting at the bottom. (Both rescued from the trash at the club).
Tie wrap the bicycle spedometer sensor in place so that it picks up the magnet when it goes by.

To calibrate, I borrowed a friend's anemometer and my wife's hair dryer. Get the hair dryer wind speed reading from the anemometer and play with the wheel diameter on the bike speedo until you get the right wind speed.

Moutin a convenient spot on your boat. This worked great any my speedo had memory settings for max speed , average speed etc.

Matt


----------



## willyd

*Cheap way to rename boat*

I bought a 1964 Whitby 25 from a local charity. The previous owner had named the boat "Saint Brendan". Last week I was down at the dock trying to scratch off the vinyl (?) boat letters, but only got off the letter S on the port side. I bought a heat gun in the meantime, but was waiting for a warmish day to get the rest of the letters off and put on the new name that I thought up. On Saturday my brother came down to look at the boat and pointed out that if I just take off the last letter of the current name as well, I've already got a new name: "Ain't Brenda"!! Cost: $0.00.


----------



## Ritchard

Boat Denaming:

48° Vigor's Interdenominational Boat Denaming Ceremony


----------



## StormBay

Our refrigerator is fairly large and never had a light. This made it extremely hard to see and find things that ended up packed in the corners unless we had a flashlight in our teeth. So for about $30 I bought some red LED rope lights, mounts, and a rocker switch. The lights got strung around the upper edge and down the back corner and the switch is close to the door. Over all it provides good light that won't rune your night vision or use much power (no more groping in the dark for a drink!) The only down side is having to remember to, or develop the habit of turning off the switch. I could have gotten a refrigerator door switch, but with 3 different ways to open it i'de need to install 3 and that seems like more trouble than its worth.




























Sorry for the bad pics, they were taken with my cell.


----------



## opc11

Great thread! Thanks to ALL for your contributions. Quite the education.


----------



## erps

That's a great idea. A person could attach a itty-bitty LED indicator light right next to the switch that is illuminated when the switch is on to remind everyone to shut it back off.


----------



## bljones

Or use an illuminated switch.
Great idea, and the red light ups the coolness factor.


----------



## StormBay

Thanks guys, I never thought about using an indicator light or a illuminated switch though. Great suggestions. I think I'm going to have to make that change soon!


----------



## bljones

Recycled electrical panel. $15










Dock Six Chronicles: Possible deal of the week


----------



## erps

I don't have a comfort breaker on my panel. I need to get one of those. Do they trip easily?


----------



## raisin56

Ray

Mine trips when beating int slop or on 95 degree days with no wind.

Dan


----------



## szigi

bljones said:


> Or use an illuminated switch.
> Great idea, and the red light ups the coolness factor.


Speaking of red lights. I have fluorescent cabin lights. I got some self-adhesive LED-strips. Stuck them next to the fluorescent tubes, exchanged the switch to a two way switch and soldered wires to the LEDs. Now I can have super-sexy red light to reduce glare, and not attract insects, or normal white light.

Total cost converted to $: $12 for the LEDs, and $2 for the switch.

The pic shows the light, with cover removed.


----------



## PaulinVictoria

Looks like a knocking shop


----------



## szigi

PaulinVictoria said:


> Looks like a knocking shop


Yep! Red cabin lights do make one to think of fun other than sailing .


----------



## szigi

Here's an other quick project. Galley had ugly white MDF board for the countertop. So got some plywood, green stain and varnish. Some adhesive for the railing. And, as a bonus, leftover ceramic tiles behind the sink and some sealant for the caulking.

Looks way better. Total cost ~$30.


----------



## peterchech

szigi said:


> Here's an other quick project. Galley had ugly white MDF board for the countertop. So got some plywood, green stain and varnish. Some adhesive for the railing. And, as a bonus, leftover ceramic tiles behind the sink and some sealant for the caulking.
> 
> Looks way better. Total cost ~$30.


How does that plywood work out as countertop? I am doing mine in formica because it is more scratch resistant and a better finish, but the finish on yours looks top notch...


----------



## szigi

peterchech said:


> How does that plywood work out as countertop? I am doing mine in formica because it is more scratch resistant and a better finish, but the finish on yours looks top notch...


So far it does well, it's been now in place for this year. To be frank, my boat is on an inland lake, so it's usually only used for the weekends only, but we do quite a lot of cooking then, so the galley is in use.

I first painted the plywood to color, then coated it with 4 layers of varnish (bit of a sanding between the layers), and it seems to be hard enough to resist scratches.

And if it gets scratched in the future, I can just sand it a bit and recoat a couple of layers without much hassle.


----------



## nodders

Just needs a little fine sanding and some tung oil, and it will be ready to mount next to the nav station! Cost: about $18 for the wood, a place to put this stuff - priceless!


----------



## bljones

Nice work. What wood did you use?


----------



## Bilgewater

Finished my bulkheadboard/book-rack last week. I paid $10 for the stick on LED strip lighting that's positioned under the top shelf and runs the length. It can be seen in the photos. The toggle switch cost me about $3. I always have cans of stain and varnish on board so I may have used about $10 worth of that. I had this Hemlock left over from another house project. Hemlock is kind of a budget wood but it has a nice grain and it's easy to work with so I would guess it might be worth around $80. I purchased the 3/4" maple plywood backing for this project and that cost me $45 but I have quite a bit left over that will be used for some galley shelves I'll build next.

The bottom compartments go about 6" deeper than can be seen in the photos.










The strip LED lights can be seen just under the top shelf.


----------



## Ritchard

That's a real nice job, Seeya.


----------



## RNC725

I have a similar table but the mount on the floor makes it wobble --a real pain! I suspect the mount does not allow enough of the post to keep it stable? thoughts? pics?

thanks and fairwinds


----------



## nodders

bljones said:


> Nice work. What wood did you use?


I used maple to provide a contrast to the teak in the cabin. It will darken up when I oil it but will still be much lighter in colour.


----------



## SloopJonB

StormBay said:


> Our refrigerator is fairly large and never had a light. This made it extremely hard to see and find things that ended up packed in the corners unless we had a flashlight in our teeth. So for about $30 I bought some red LED rope lights, mounts, and a rocker switch. The lights got strung around the upper edge and down the back corner and the switch is close to the door. Over all it provides good light that won't rune your night vision or use much power (no more groping in the dark for a drink!) The only down side is having to remember to, or develop the habit of turning off the switch. I could have gotten a refrigerator door switch, but with 3 different ways to open it i'de need to install 3 and that seems like more trouble than its worth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad pics, they were taken with my cell.


I'm afraid to ask what those containers hold in that "red light district."


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

$25 ​panasonic toughbook cf27 p3 500mhz
$20 ​older pcmcia cardbus gps sirf II chip
$20 ​flexible waterproof keyboard and mouse
free ​navigatrix linux 
free ​charts from noaa
toughbooks use 12 - 19 volts input
next is ais, autopilot from stepper motor, wifi for grib downloads and email,
nmea 0183 ducer connected to com port on laptop, and external display.
daylight readable screen and free charts ... priceless
William White 
SV Rangatira


----------



## Bene505

bljones said:


> In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
> Here's the rules:
> 
> 1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.
> 
> 2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.
> 
> 3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity.


Here's hoping I get some of those bonus points, maybe I can exchange them for valuable prizes somewhere.

I bought 5 LED strip lights, the kind that are about 18 inches long and have double sided tape on the back. I used one of them under the lip above where the nav station panel closes. Cost for one was about $7. You can see it installed here:









If you look closely, you can see that I bent a couple pieces of wire to have a circle (to fit around a wood screw) and a little tab (to hold the end of the LED strip. The glue on the double sided tape didn't work so well on the end of the LED strip. That and the double sided tape didn't go all the way out to the end of the strip, because of the end cap on the strip. Cost for 2 small pieces of wire was $0. I had it around anyway.









Edit: Adding this picture -- Brad









I led the wire through a small notch in the wood that I carefully made with a chisel. (The notch and wire are on the far end end f the LED strip, out of sight.) Then I connected the light to a switch on the side of the nav station. I rarely used that switch; it was for a small light near the floor. (It was the "mystery switch" that I posted about a while back.) Here is the LED strip with the light on.









Here you can see how well it lights up the nav station panel. What you can't see in the picture is how well it lights up the nav station tabletop. (I have a single LED not shown that can act as a spot light onto the table top if needed. It plugs into the nearby 12v plug.) Anyway, there's plenty of light there. The copy of Eldridge is actually in the shadow at the back of the nav station.









And then when I open the panel, the same strip light fully illuminates the wiring harness and the strip blocks for the wiring.









The transition is amazing, probably worth posting a video so you can see the effect when opening the panel. Maybe when there's more time.

Total cost about $7.

Regards,
Brad

P.S. Yes, that's my on-board, 12v WiFi WAP (Wireless Access Point) that connects to my Bullet2HP long range WiFi at the top of the mast. Note the very simple POE injector in the picture. I'm not quite done with that project yet -- waiting for delivery of a reliable, very long CAT5 cable. (I'm buying Belkin only from now on. The blue wire in the picture turned out to not work. I don't need those headaches.) I installed the WAP this past weekend. The setup works really well. Once I get it completely done, maybe I'll post about it.


----------



## erps

Brad, how do they perform when the battery voltage gets a little low?

I bought a cheap LED reading lamp from West Marine a couple years ago and ended up pulling it back out. Worked great when the battery voltage was high. Sucked when the house bank got under 12.4 to 12.2 volts or so.


----------



## bljones

Nice work, Bene!


----------



## polaris2.11

I use one. It has great insulation. I start out with a couple of cold packs and it stays cold for 2-3 days. Plug it in when at the dock and you are good for another couple of days. I had fresh crispy spinach after a week on the water, with only one night plugged in at the dock in the middle of the week.


----------



## Bene505

erps said:


> Brad, how do they perform when the battery voltage gets a little low?
> 
> I bought a cheap LED reading lamp from West Marine a couple years ago and ended up pulling it back out. Worked great when the battery voltage was high. Sucked when the house bank got under 12.4 to 12.2 volts or so.


They work ok, as far as I know. And I think we had low voltage at one point. (At one point, I attached a long 2-conductor speaker wire to them and lowered them into the water. They are indeed waterproof. I've thought about attaching a strip to the underside of the bottom rung of the swim lader, so the kids can watch the fish.

By the way, the ones I got are very bright. I could have used a strip light with fewer LEDs. However, I do like the brightness when I'm working on the boat in the evenings during the winter. And they draw so few amps that it's no problem leaving them on at night as a nightlight when at anchor.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Ritchard

I sure have enjoyed this thread and would love to see more contributions. Come on you clever cheapskates, show us what else you got.

(Sadly my boat is just costing $$$. I don't have enough cheap projects to show)


----------



## wmmulvey

Brad,

I like your LBP

Where did you purchase the strips from?

Bill


----------



## Bene505

wmmulvey said:


> Brad,
> 
> I like your LBP
> 
> Where did you purchase the strips from?
> 
> Bill


I got them off eBay. The seller is still around, but not selling anything at the moment. The auction title was "Marine Boat Waterproof 18 LED Light strip WHITE 12 inch". Here's a search you could use that will work: Marine Boat Waterproof LED Light strip | eBay That search has 46 hits right now, including an $8 light strip.

I may mount one up above the stove and sink area. They are perhaps too bright for there. There's an incandescent light there now. I may mount one in the engine area and in the area where the steering quadrant is too. It's just running the wires and adding a switch is the only difficulty.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## BreakAwayFL

*Re: Low Buck LEDs*



JimMcGee said:


> It's usually dark when I get to my boat. After climbing down the ladder and feeling around the breaker panel for the cabin lights a few times I came up with this $6 tap light from Lowes. So far I've only replaced the batteries once after two years. I also put them in my cockpit lockers to make it easier to find things in the dark.
> 
> Jim


Genius! I'm ordering some RIGHT NOW!


----------



## BreakAwayFL

ftldiver said:


> I added an extra bottom step, with 9' of 2" diameter double braid, tied to the last step. works well, not bad on the bare feet, and price was right....


Can you post a pic?


----------



## wmmulvey

Brad,

Thanks.

I ordered 4

Bill


----------



## Ritchard

With respect to cheap chinese strip lights, I have tried two different kinds, and find the white/blue light kind of harsh. I'd like to find some warm white strips. I did order some of the LED rope light to hide away behind shelf fiddles as accent light. This time I made sure to order warm white. A long roll arrived yesterday that I am looking forward to trying out on Saturday, er evening.


----------



## bljones

Ritchard, I'd love to get some pics and info on the project when it is done- I'm thinking it is time for a lighting blog post.


----------



## asdf38

I just finished these shelf/pouches. Stained poplar from home depot, brass nails and screws, bungie cord from REI, and blue cloth from a tablecloth (polyester or nylon if I remember). This project has actually spanned more than a year since I've been pretty lazy. I also didn't even have power tools when I started and used hand tools to cut the wood (partly why I chose poplar, cost was the other reason).

One thing I've learned on my boat is that rigid things and containers arn't well suited for the curves and small spaces. The first toolbox I bought couldn't fit anywhere in the boat. So I came back with a toolbag which can stuff where it needs to go. 

So this is intended to be a combination between a pouch, which are really practical but I don't love the looks of, and a rigid shelf. I think it's going to work out well.


----------



## Bene505

By the way, the strip lights get pretty hot. And the one I installed has a few of the 18 lights burnt out. I don't care since it was too much light originally, but I thought you would want to know.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Bene505

I added a new picture to the above post, so you can see how I made the mechanical fasterner out of a paperclip.










You can see some of the double sided tape, undr the fastener. That's what is holding the LED strip in place, between the paperclip/mechanical fastener on each end.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

STRF4-3528-W3-12V-WP-T | Electron.com
these have the 3528 smd led's with a lower lumen output 180 -200 /m
power draw is 4.8 w/m
efficiency is 0.024 to 0.026 watts / lumen 
STRF5-5050-W3-12V-WP-T | Electron.com
these have the 5050 smd led's with a higher lumen output 200-230 /m
power draw is 7.2 w/m 
efficiency is 0.031 to 0.036 watts / lumen 
it looks like the 3528 puts more energy into light and thereby less into heat
the biggest issue is regulated 12v supply over voltage may damage the unit
for switching a small latching push button would be easy (push once for on again for off)
for waterproofing circuits I use something called Dragon Skin FX pro 2 part silicone (generally used for casting makeup appliances) non-conductive and works great. Good for ip67 rating if you encapsulate your components and prep your surface

William White
SV Rangatira
1974 Discovery 32


----------



## MedSailor

white74 said:


> for waterproofing circuits I use something called Dragon Skin FX pro 2 part silicone (generally used for casting makeup appliances) non-conductive and works great. Good for ip67 rating if you encapsulate your components and prep your surface
> 
> William White
> SV Rangatira
> 1974 Discovery 32


Whoa! Wait! What? You can IPX-67 something yourself with this stuff? You must show us how! Details/photos please!!!

MedSailor


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

not my idea found it on a web site for water cooled pc's I'll see if I can find the link


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

using dragonskin on a pc


----------



## Ritchard

I enjoyed this thread so much the first time, I just read through it again.


----------



## eddi887

Hi All,

Great thread; some great ideas! Anyone have a low-buck method to replacing the hatch lenses? Mine are getting badly checked, and in need of replacement, and I was quoted $400.00 per hatch to have them fixed!!

Thanks...Jeff


----------



## jsaronson

Try
Select Plastics, LLC - Connecticut's Best Custom Fabricated Plastics and Marine Hatch Repair

Not sure what they charge, but they seem to specialize.


----------



## Faster

eddi887 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Great thread; some great ideas! Anyone have a low-buck method to replacing the hatch lenses? Mine are getting badly checked, and in need of replacement, and I was quoted $400.00 per hatch to have them fixed!!
> 
> Thanks...Jeff


That sounds like a quote from Select plastics.. they will do a good job and if your frames are sound that may well be the best way to go. These things are expensive new!

It is possible, however, to replace the lenses with Acrylic yourself and if your seals are still good that may be an option. Check Mainesails' Compass Marine site - he may have some tips. The sealant/adhesive Dow Corning 795 comes highly recommended for such jobs.


----------



## FormerAdministrator

here's a low budget project....

:laugher:laugher


----------



## SloopJonB

If you can use a router table or a jigsaw and a drill you can do it yourself, as Faster suggests. I did one for $100. Get a piece of plexi - an offcut will often suffice and is cheaper than having them cut a full sheet.

Dow 795 is the sealant of choice - it's what they use to hold the glass in office towers so it should hold a couple of square feet of plexi. 

It's an easy job - cleaning the old sealant off the hatch is the slowest part - the mounting lip must be PERFECTLY clean.


----------



## mitiempo

If you don't want to cut the plexi yourself remove the old and take it to a plastic shop and get them to replicate it with new. That is not expensive.


----------



## cb32863

Did this today. Added the shelf for either fuel or a battery. Can add a tub for water to run in the garage if I need to. Channeling my inner Jonesy....










Oh yeah, wood was left over from when I built my deck a few years ago so I guess cost is $0.00......


----------



## bljones

Low-buck cabin refit, part one:
Dock Six Chronicles: First Wet Week-End of 2012! Part One.


----------



## smackdaddy

bl - I have to admit. You make some really cool crap dude. Nice work.


----------



## bljones

Thanks Smacky.

Just to close out the tale: The most dramatic low-buck project yet:

Dock Six Chronicles: First Wet Week-End of 2012! Part Two.


----------



## MedSailor

bljones said:


> Thanks Smacky.
> 
> Just to close out the tale: The most dramatic low-buck project yet:
> 
> Dock Six Chronicles: First Wet Week-End of 2012! Part Two.


Ummm.... wow. Wasn't this thread supposed to be cheap AND accessible projects????

BlJ you are officially invited to sail on my boat. Oh, and since you're here, I've got this pile of scrap teak and a few tools over there on the settee.....

Nicely done man, nicely done.

MedSailor


----------



## bljones

Med, if I can do it, you can do it.
The table is scrap plywood and a scrap of pine 2x4 ripped into 1/4" battens and 1/4" doorskin strips and some lefto over pine corner mould. Screw, glue, nail, cover with epoxy and varnish and done.


----------



## jblumhorst

posting so I can subscribe to this great thread!


----------



## Stumble

Not quite under the $100 requirement, but I had to replace my lifelines, and when I got the quotes..l well I wasn't sure I wanted not to die that badly. 

So $125 worth of amsteel blue line, and a few hours of learning how to splice it, and I had new lifelines for my Olson 30. And they are now certified by ORC, and US Sailing to be safe for offshore racing. The same as wire, but much more comfortable.

I can't figure out how to post pics from my iPad, but I'll put some up tomorrow.


----------



## SchockT

Our boat is an IOR era masthead rigged racer cruiser. The spinnaker pole is a a bit of a handful for my wife to handle, and the monstrous symetric spinnaker is even more of a handful short handed. So the decision was made to splurge and buy an asymetric spinnaker. I hated the idea of flying the new sail off the stem. so I looked into buying a bowsprit kit. Damn those things were expensive, and they aren't the most elegant solution. So I pondered for a while, and came up for a design for my own sprit. I made up a couple of drawings, went to the Metal Supermarket for some materials and took it to a welding shop to get it fabricated.

Well, here is what I have come up with. It is made out of Schedule 40 3" aluminum tube. The end of the pole is 3/8" thick aluminum to give enough meat to thread in a 3/8" ss bolt as the fastening point for the block. The reason I did that was twofold; I wanted to keep the outside surfaces of the pole free of hardware so that the pole is easily removable, and I wanted all of the load to swivel on the centre axis of the pole to eliminate any torque that might stress the inboard anchoring point. The forward collar is welded out of stainless steel tube, with a 1/4" thick tang that fastens to the same 1/2" clevis pin that secures the forestay to the stem. The inboard end is secured to a heavy stainless car, (originally a staysail tack point) using a 5/16" quick pin through two 1/4" aluminum tabs. The car slides on a pre existing track. the pole can be extended and locked in place in seconds. Because of the slope of the deck where the track is mounted, the pole lifts up when retracted giving plenty of clearance to use the bow cleat that is under the pole.





































Ok, confession time! This project did cost more than $100 but even at $200 it saved me hundreds of dollars, and I didn't have to drill a single hole in my deck!

(oh yeah, and the brand new Quantum chute definitely cost more than $100!)


----------



## Faster

Nicely done, SchockT! Thunderbird Marina, I presume??


----------



## Ritchard

SchockT, Gorgeous job.


----------



## SchockT

Faster said:


> Nicely done, SchockT! Thunderbird Marina, I presume??


Deep Cove Yacht Club actually; I know it looks like a marina because of the derelict beside me! The sailing shot was taken heading across Indian Arm to Bedwell Bay.


----------



## Stumble

Very nicely done schock!

I would recommend adding a bobstay to the pole though. Asymetricals can add tremendous verticle pull, and the poles alone may not be able to take it. Adding the bobstay however puts the pole into compression, where aluminium is much much stronger. Just weld on a tang to the ottom of the pole, run a line from that to a u-bolt about 6" above the waterline on the bow (into the anchor locker is a good spot, since they are self draining) then take a piece of dyneema and splice it into place. Should cost about $15 in parts plus the welding, but massively strengthen the system.


----------



## tap

I second the bobstay. A boat I raced on had an homemade mini-bowsprit like that, it projected about 1.5' and was made of aluminum u-channel. Went a little to high flying the code zero in maybe 8 kts wind and ripped the sprit upward, along with the deck at bow! Reinforced the bow and added a bob-stay.

To add the bobstay, just drill one hole into the anchor locker. Run a length of amsteel through the hole and tie a knot on the inside so it can't pull through. Easier than trying to attach a u-bolt to the bow.


----------



## SchockT

The whole intent of the design was simplicity, and that is why I went for the schedule 40 tube section. It is heavy but very strong. I have tested it by grinding on a halyard attached to the tack line and it hadly even flexes. My friends who are riggers and sailmakers agree, not bobstay required.


----------



## tap

It's not the tube that breaks, it's where it attaches to the bow or the bow itself that breaks. Think of all the leverage the tube provides pulling up on your stem fitting.


----------



## SchockT

Yeah we discussed the loads on the stem fitting, and I suppose in extreme conditions it could be a problem, but this is not for powered up racing, this is for casual family cruising, specifically in light conditions when we are looking for enough power to sail rather than motor. When the breeze picks up we would be over powered pretty quickly and would change to a genoa. If you look at the Selden sprit kits, they rely on a fairly light U-bolt into the deck to take that load with the same extension length. If they can handle the load you gotta think the stem fitting can too. It does handle the loads of a big genoa and a hydraulic backstay that goes up to 2000psi after all!


----------



## Barquito

I think that your a-spin sprit is a wonderful use of available hardware on the boat, and stuff from the hardware store. Really makes me want to get a new sail!


----------



## montenido

Okay, here is another one that you all might like. To create air space beneath my vee berth cushions I bought a PVC lattice panel at Home Depot. Cost was about $28 because I got the one that has 2" openings, not 4". Anyway, it is 4'x8' and I cut it to fit, and then cut it into smaller pieces so that I could access different compartments underneath without lifting the entire lattice. This should allow plenty of air under the cushions and cut down on dampness.

Here are a couple of photos. Let me know if you like it.

Cheers, Bill


----------



## mitiempo

montenido said:


> Okay, here is another one that you all might like. To create air space beneath my vee berth cushions I bought a PVC lattice panel at Home Depot. Cost was about $28 because I got the one that has 2" openings, not 4". Anyway, it is 4'x8' and I cut it to fit, and then cut it into smaller pieces so that I could access different compartments underneath without lifting the entire lattice. This should allow plenty of air under the cushions and cut down on dampness.
> 
> Here are a couple of photos. Let me know if you like it.
> 
> Cheers, Bill


The key to eliminating dampness is air circulation. Any commercial product for this allows air to circulate throughout the under cushion area. Those open areas in the lattice look like they are all isolated from each other.


----------



## hriehl1

To our Administrators:
Is there any way to extract this entire thread, WITH photos, into a PDF file? There's lots of good stuff in here but the multi-page (and growing) format is not easy to wade through.


----------



## Barquito

> Is there any way to extract this entire thread, WITH photos, into a PDF file? There's lots of good stuff in here but the multi-page (and growing) format is not easy to wade through.


Personally, I don't mind wading into this stuff. Agree, there is a ton of good stuff in here.


----------



## 2weelz4me

bljones said:


> In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
> Here's the rules:
> 
> 1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.
> 
> 2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.
> 
> 3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity.
> 
> Here's one of mine:
> 
> I needed a cockpit table. Well, I, personally, didn't need a cockpit table, but the admiral did, and I need a warm place to sleep, so you can see how the stars aligned on this one. I sussed out commercially available, marine priced cockpit tables and promptly gagged. So, I thought to myself, "self, you could make it yourself for a lot less." One problem. Well, four actually. I have limited woodworking skills, limited woodworking tools, and limited time. oh yeah, and I am cheap.
> So, I went to plan "c".
> 
> I spent some time eyeballing the cockpit in question:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I moseyed into action. I bought one of these for $29.99
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A frenzy of measuring, remeasuring, cutting, screwing, drinking, varnishing, etc. later, and this is how it finished up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see yours.


That is an awesome job! Don't think we didn't notice the refinished wood on the compass too. I for one think you did a great job.


----------



## 2weelz4me

*Re: De-junkerator*



Barquito said:


> $100 of paint and sandpaper. DIY baby!


wow, what a difference.


----------



## Jetexas

I think this counts as a low-buck project. I needed to replace all my old, crazed leaking ports. Beckson wanted $610 + tax + shipping for the four windows. I bought new acrylic, some 3M mounting tape, and some Dow Corning 791 and made some new ones myself for $160.










Three warnings:
1) Give yourself plenty of time. It took me almost four hours per window (although each one did go faster than the last as I got better at scraping the old silicone off, cutting the acrylic, etc.)
2) Make sure you buy enough acrylic to make one or two more ports than you need because I did have one shatter as I was cutting it out.
3) Make sure you order the black Dow Corning 791. I didn't realize it came in multiple colors until I was ready to seal my ports, and then it was too late to send it back and wait to order more.

Here's more details on my blog: http://www.fredfacker.blogspot.com/2012/06/replacing-fixed-ports-on-starwind-27.html


----------



## montenido

Alas, Mitiempo, you are correct about the air circulation under the cushions.

Stand by for modifications 

Cheers, Bill


----------



## Ritchard

Jetexas said:


> I think this counts as a low-buck project. I needed to replace all my old, crazed leaking ports. Beckson wanted $610 + tax + shipping for the four windows. I bought new acrylic, some 3M mounting tape, and some Dow Corning 791 and made some new ones myself for $160.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three warnings:
> 1) Give yourself plenty of time. It took me almost four hours per window (although each one did go faster than the last as I got better at scraping the old silicone off, cutting the acrylic, etc.)
> 2) Make sure you buy enough acrylic to make one or two more ports than you need because I did have one shatter as I was cutting it out.
> 3) Make sure you order the black Dow Corning 791. I didn't realize it came in multiple colors until I was ready to seal my ports, and then it was too late to send it back and wait to order more.
> 
> Here's more details on my blog: Live While Alive: Replacing fixed ports on a Starwind 27 sailboat


This was a nice job. How did you handle interior trim?


----------



## rikhall

I like my coffee in a mug and have broken three of them when they fell off the binnacle drink holder. So, a scrap piece of "plastic lumber" and some time on the lathe - voila:










empty










Turned over showing how it fits in drink holder.










Rik


----------



## erps

My solar panels are mounted on stainless tubing between two stanchion posts. When I tipped them up, I've been hanging them up with a line tied to my bimini frame, but I wanted to support the outside edge with a pole. The easiest thing to do was to attach a bimini pole end receiver on to my toe rail, but my toe rail is teak with a curved top and I didn't want to have to cut a flat groove in the top of the toe rail and I figured the metal piece would be a toe stubber and a knuckle buster.

So I whittled down a UHMW block with my table saw and router to make a pole receiver on the toe rail and then used a collapsible piece of stainless tubing to pole out my solar panels at a 45 deg angle and horizontal. I got the tubing and the tubing ends used for a good price, $14. The UHMW was some stuff I had in the garage for another project. So far so good.


----------



## montenido

Okay, here is my follow up to my vee berth cushion ventilation idea. Mitiempo rightly pointed out that my original version would not allow air to circulate under the cushions. So, back to Home Depot for some $2.29 PVC plastic picket fence sections. These (I needed ten) were installed under the PVC lattice pieces, leaving lots of air space with open channels. So for my whole vee berth I am in for about $50-ish.

Cheers, Bill


----------



## Ritchard

montenido said:


> Okay, here is my follow up to my vee berth cushion ventilation idea. Mitiempo rightly pointed out that my original version would not allow air to circulate under the cushions. So, back to Home Depot for some $2.29 PVC plastic picket fence sections. These (I needed ten) were installed under the PVC lattice pieces, leaving lots of air space with open channels. So for my whole vee berth I am in for about $50-ish.
> 
> Cheers, Bill


I like to be supportive of the efforts of the frugal, but this is looking a little _too_ bodged together. You don't think there will be some kind of noise, or even movement from this stacked collection of landscaping bits and bobs?


----------



## montenido

I agree with the look being kind of thrown together. That is why they are UNDER the cushions. As my cushions are thick and tight fitting, there is no movement or rattling around. Now with amorous people on top, who knows...

Just trying to keep any possible water dampness away from the cushions. And I am not being defensive, I appreciate all input and opinions .

Cheers, Bill


----------



## Bene505

I have 2 low-bucks projects to post from over the weekend. The first is a new seal on my fridge and freezer lids. Previously, the freezer cold plate would get quickly covered in frost. There was never a really good seal, and humid air would flow into the box. If you turned the lights on inside the fridge and freezer, you would see lots of light coming out around the lid. (The fridge lights were a previous project, not sure I posted it here or not.)

So I made my own gasket using silicone and blue painters tape and a razor blade.

First I prepped the surface by putting bleach-soaked paper towels on the lid. This kept the bleach from running and actually got the seal areas white and stain-free. (This also worked on a stained are inside the box.) After thoroughly rinsing and drying, I taped the areas where I didn't want the silicone to go. I also put some tape inside the box, in back, where I though the silicone could ooze excesively.










Then I applied silicone to the where I wanted the gasket to be. I used several beads-on-top-of beads where the gap was largest. (Note, I could have used more. Use *much* more than you think you need.)










Then I waited about 20 minutes. I was concerned that the drying time would be really long since the fridge and freezer would be sealed containers. I wasn't sure how long that would be, so I let the silicone set-up for a bit.

I sprayed the fridge and freezer box edges (the other side of the seal) with a huge amount of Pam cooking spray. This is canola oil, I think. I put paper towels inside the box to catch any dripping silicone.










Then I flipped the lids over, put them in place and screwed the hinges in place.

The next day I managed to get the darn lids open.










I removed the tape and trimmed the new gasket to the size I wanted.



















What is most amazing is how well the new gasket transitioned from the horizontal seal area to the vertical seal area, behind the lids below where the hingers are.

Now, when you close the freezer lid, the fridge lid pops up slightly. This is a good test that there is a seal, IMHO. (I actually want an even better seal. Perhaps I'll put a parallel gasket in place, in the future.) As part of the project, I also sealed all the holes going into the box and between the two boxes. (Awhile back I ran new refrigerant lines, putting a 12v system in parallel with the now-defunct engine compressor.) I also ran a lot of wires for lights and in-the-box fans, the next project.

All-told, I used 1 tube of silicone and some blue tape that I had left over from fall projects. Total cost, about $15.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Bene505

It's getting late, so I'll let these 3 pictures speak for themselves, except to say that the vertical, 1/2" PVC pipe does not go all the way to the bottom of the box. Note also that the first picture is a hacksaw cutting into the PVC elbow. The lines are below and not getting cut.





































Total cost, about $10 since I already had the wire and I used the other "side" of the SPDT switch that controls the fridge and freezer lights.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## erps

Does that pull cold air off the floor and circulate it Brad? I don't see a hole in the bottom of the little vertical tube, so was just wonderin'.


----------



## heinzir

Instead of dragging the heavy inflatable down to the lake each time I wanted to go sailing, I decided to start using my son's 8' El Toro as a dinghy. I can keep it right next to the docks. I put oar locks on it but, man, that tiny fiberglass thwart was a pain in the ass. The useable part of the thwart is only a few inches wide as the rest angles downward at a steep angle. And the narrow dagger board trunk tries to force its way up my crack! I made a much more comfortable seat from a couple of pieces of plywood and some scrap foam. It has room for my cheeks to spread out!

The wooden seat is a scrap piece of pressure treated 3/8", and the "fin" is an old cut down companionway drop board screwed and epoxied to the seat. I was going to make the "fin" just 4" deep to hold the seat in place but decided to make it long enough to stick out of the bottom of the daggerboard slot a few inches to add some directional stability: the El Toro rows like a bowling ball otherwise. If I get ambitious I might glue or staple some Sunbrella to the seat to make it look upholstered.


----------



## Bene505

erps said:


> Does that pull cold air off the floor and circulate it Brad? I don't see a hole in the bottom of the little vertical tube, so was just wonderin'.


Yes. Household fridges have internal fans which help keep a consistent temperature throughout the box. This box had no fan.

The tube goes to within a couple inches of the bottom of the box, along the wall adjacent to the freezer. That's where the air will be the coldest.

Here another shot of it, right before I zip-tied it in plpace.










Regards,
Brad


----------



## Stumble

To prevent jib sheets and other line from getting caught underneath hatches, I take a piece of bungee cord, hog ring it into loops, and put it under the hatch overhang. It takes up the space the sheets can grab, and when it is tucked under can barely be seen without looking very closely (I couldn't get it to show up on pictures).

Cost

$1/foot for the bungee cord
.25 a hog ring


----------



## Ritchard

Stumble said:


> To prevent jib sheets and other line from getting caught underneath hatches, I take a piece of bungee cord, hog ring it into loops, and put it under the hatch overhang. It takes up the space the sheets can grab, and when it is tucked under can barely be seen without looking very closely (I couldn't get it to show up on pictures).
> 
> Cost
> 
> $1/foot for the bungee cord
> .25 a hog ring


Sounds intriguing, but I don't get it.


----------



## SloopJonB

Ritchard said:


> Sounds intriguing, but I don't get it.


It's a giant rubber band that snaps around the hatch and fills in the gap between the deck flange and the hatch top - the slot that sheets can hang up on.


----------



## heinzir

Here is my dinghy seat "upholstered" with a piece of Sunbrella fabric. I used contact cement to attach the fabric. It turned out so well that I think I will use the same method (contact cement) to make cockpit cushions for the mother ship. It's a lot quicker and easier than sewing, uses less material, and creates a perfectly smooth cushion top.





And here is a varnished rowing seat for my other sailing dinghy:


----------



## bljones

I especially like the "port" and starboard" signage, great for newbies and forgetful drunks alike!


----------



## tjvanginkel

*A few projects*

I am very excited to have completed my folding table project. We desperately needed some extra counter space. Thanks to BLJones for the inspiration! I used edge grain fir, with a teak fiddle around the edge. 
Fir about $10
Teak, recycled door frame, free
stain about $7
SS piano hinge, $15
Brass catch to keep it closed, $5 I think
Being friends with the high school shop teacher, priceless!










I managed to get a good colour match to the exsiting wood. The teak trim comes down far enough so that when it is folded down you cannot see the legs.










I stumbled across a piece of raw silk at the thrift shop, $20, so I made curtains with some of it. They are designed so that they can be in place when the ports are open as well. Thanks to someones blog for the inspiration on this one. They are on a piece of doweling, $5, with a small bungee strap, $10, to hold them on. So $35 for 8 curtains. The bungee just slides over the port. I don't really like the look of fixed curtains so this works well for me. When I don't want them up they can be stowed.









I made cushion covers with the rest of the material.

I also made covers for our lifesling and stern tie reel. I got some canvas at the boaters exchange for $10, zippers at the thrift shop, 25 cents, the strapping is from a lift of lumber and the plastic buckle is scavenged from a broken packsack. And I still have enough canvas to make 2 lee cloths.


----------



## bljones

Y'know, we gotta make some sorta delineation or demarcation between West Coast Low-buck and East Coast Low-buck. Y'all west coasters use clear fir and raw silk, while us east coasters use Sunbrella remnants and doorskin.
Roll how you roll... but keep rolling low-buck.
Thanks for the contributions.


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

bljones said:


> Y'know, we gotta make some sorta delineation or demarcation between West Coast Low-buck and East Coast Low-buck. Y'all west coasters use clear fir and raw silk, while us east coasters use Sunbrella remnants and doorskin.
> Roll how you roll... but keep rolling low-buck.
> Thanks for the contributions.


I use both on the west coast


----------



## Ritchard

*Re: A few projects*



tjvanginkel said:


> I am very excited to have completed my folding table project. We desperately needed some extra counter space. Thanks to BLJones for the inspiration! I used edge grain fir, with a teak fiddle around the edge.
> Fir about $10
> Teak, recycled door frame, free
> stain about $7
> SS piano hinge, $15
> Brass catch to keep it closed, $5 I think
> Being friends with the high school shop teacher, priceless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to get a good colour match to the exsiting wood. The teak trim comes down far enough so that when it is folded down you cannot see the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stumbled across a piece of raw silk at the thrift shop, $20, so I made curtains with some of it. They are designed so that they can be in place when the ports are open as well. Thanks to someones blog for the inspiration on this one. They are on a piece of doweling, $5, with a small bungee strap, $10, to hold them on. So $35 for 8 curtains. The bungee just slides over the port. I don't really like the look of fixed curtains so this works well for me. When I don't want them up they can be stowed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made cushion covers with the rest of the material.
> 
> I also made covers for our lifesling and stern tie reel. I got some canvas at the boaters exchange for $10, zippers at the thrift shop, 25 cents, the strapping is from a lift of lumber and the plastic buckle is scavenged from a broken packsack. And I still have enough canvas to make 2 lee cloths.


Fabulous Frugality. You're like an order of magnitude cheaper than me, and I am freakin' cheap!


----------



## Barquito

I'm struggling to paint the deck, and re-bed all the deck hardware. These pretty projects are making me twitchy. Removable curtains are a great idea.


----------



## tjvanginkel

Fabulous Frugality. You're like an order of magnitude cheaper than me, and I am freakin' cheap! 




Trust me we spend plenty of money on our boat!!!!!! Just got away cheaply on these projects. All the other projects will not even come close to qualifying for this thread.  


Tanya


----------



## Bob142

Just finished reading all 39 pages...amazing thread

Bljones you do some fine work...now I have to start reading Dock Six ...


----------



## Tim R.

For the past year or so, I have been using a bluetooth receiver to stream music from my ipad or android cell phone via A2DP. It works great. I simply turn on this small device and plug it into the aux jack on my stereo and I can play tunes without being tethered. I really enjoy reading the bios in Pandora as the music plays. The downside is that the BT device is rechargeable and has a limited range. I had to string a long cable up into the cockpit in order to play music from there which is kind of pointless with a wireless device.

http://www.miccus.com/uploads/produc...jack1small.jpg

About a month ago the stereo died. So I went out and bought a Sony unit with built in BT. This also allows us to use the stereo as a speaker phone with our cells. But this unit also has a distance limitation and in the cockpit, the music would often cut out.

I did a little online research and found that the antenna in these head units are very small as they do not need to connect from very far because they were designed to be in your car which is pretty small.

I found that if I added an external antenna it should increase the range so I popped open the stereo and found the mini coax connecter on the BT module and connected it to a standard 5db gain 2.4ghz antenna(similar to a wifi antenna). I could now go to the boat in the next slip and stream my music all for about $25. I also gain by not needing a separate powered device.


----------



## Cruiser2B

Spreader lights, 

When I was rerigging my Alberg over the winter i wanted to replace the not working 55w stainless spreader lights with LED ones. After searching the internet i was conviced i could not afford them...most were in the 150-200 or more at least the ones designated "spreader lights". One day while trolling a local marine store I spotted some underwater LED lights that claimed to be 600lumens for $30 ea, I figured why not. Lets hope they last. They only draw .2 ah, I finally got them wired in and working. Whatcha you think? Got $60 invested


----------



## Bene505

Cruiser2B said:


> Spreader lights,
> 
> When I was rerigging my Alberg over the winter i wanted to replace the not working 55w stainless spreader lights with LED ones. After searching the internet i was conviced i could not afford them...most were in the 150-200 or more at least the ones designated "spreader lights". One day while trolling a local marine store I spotted some underwater LED lights that claimed to be 600lumens for $30 ea, I figured why not. Lets hope they last. They only draw .2 ah, I finally got them wired in and working. Whatcha you think? Got $60 invested


Cruiser,

Great picture!!

Do you have any closeups of the lights you used?

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Cruiser2B

Boater Sports Marine Underwater Aqua-Bright LED Light 12V 600 Lumen Blue 51089 763562510898 | eBay

I used these, but bright white, not blue


----------



## Ritchard

Cruiser2B said:


> Spreader lights,
> 
> When I was rerigging my Alberg over the winter i wanted to replace the not working 55w stainless spreader lights with LED ones. After searching the internet i was conviced i could not afford them...most were in the 150-200 or more at least the ones designated "spreader lights". One day while trolling a local marine store I spotted some underwater LED lights that claimed to be 600lumens for $30 ea, I figured why not. Lets hope they last. They only draw .2 ah, I finally got them wired in and working. Whatcha you think? Got $60 invested


Winning idea!


----------



## MedSailor

Cruiser2B said:


> Spreader lights,
> 
> When I was rerigging my Alberg over the winter i wanted to replace the not working 55w stainless spreader lights with LED ones. After searching the internet i was conviced i could not afford them...most were in the 150-200 or more at least the ones designated "spreader lights". One day while trolling a local marine store I spotted some *underwater LED lights* that claimed to be 600lumens for $30 ea, I figured why not. Lets hope they last. They only draw .2 ah, I finally got them wired in and working. Whatcha you think? Got $60 invested


You'll be really glad you bought these if you capsize! 

Nice idea! I'll have to do that myself. Currently my spreader lights are tractor headlights I believe and turning the two of them on draws 12amps!!!

MedSailor


----------



## Finallybuyingaboat

Okay, here is my latest low buck project. I have a 24 foot shark and almost always sail alone. When I raise the main, the bolt rope always jammed, necessitating me to go up and raise the sail by the mast, which is a pain, and not always easy in a nice wind. Pre feeders are about $80, so the other day I built my own. Items required:
2 golf balls (free, out of my golf bag)
1 U bolt (free, sitting in an old hardware bucket)
1 old track runner (not sure what the technical term is, but free, sitting in a hardware bucket)

I drilled a hole in one of the golf balls, threaded it onto the U bolt, then marked where I needed to drill the second ball. Once drilled slid the U bolt through the track slide and then threaded the second golf ball on. And voila! a home made sail prefeeder that works like a charm!


----------



## wmmulvey

finallybuyingaboat said:


> okay, here is my latest low buck project. I have a 24 foot shark and almost always sail alone. When i raise the main, the bolt rope always jammed, necessitating me to go up and raise the sail by the mast, which is a pain, and not always easy in a nice wind. Pre feeders are about $80, so the other day i built my own. Items required:
> 2 golf balls (free, out of my golf bag)
> 1 u bolt (free, sitting in an old hardware bucket)
> 1 old track runner (not sure what the technical term is, but free, sitting in a hardware bucket)
> 
> i drilled a hole in one of the golf balls, threaded it onto the u bolt, then marked where i needed to drill the second ball. Once drilled slid the u bolt through the track slide and then threaded the second golf ball on. And voila! A home made sail prefeeder that works like a charm!


*totally fantastic*


----------



## sailordave

Finallybuyingaboat said:


> Okay, here is my latest low buck project. I have a 24 foot shark and almost always sail alone. When I raise the main, the bolt rope always jammed, necessitating me to go up and raise the sail by the mast, which is a pain, and not always easy in a nice wind. Pre feeders are about $80, so the other day I built my own. Items required:
> 2 golf balls (free, out of my golf bag)
> 1 U bolt (free, sitting in an old hardware bucket)
> 1 old track runner (not sure what the technical term is, but free, sitting in a hardware bucket)
> 
> I drilled a hole in one of the golf balls, threaded it onto the U bolt, then marked where I needed to drill the second ball. Once drilled slid the U bolt through the track slide and then threaded the second golf ball on. And voila! a home made sail prefeeder that works like a charm!


That's funny! Reminds me of the trailer hitch "balls" that hang down from the back of pickup trucks.


----------



## Jetexas

Did you glue the golf balls? I'd be worried they'd unscrew and go rolling around the boat.


----------



## heinzir

Gluing the Sunbrella directly to the foam with contact cement for my dinghy rowing seat was so easy and turned out looking so professional that it inspired me to finally make the cockpit cushions I had bought the materials for a couple of years ago. I kept putting off the project because of the complexity of sewing the covers for a good fit. I'm not afraid of the sewing machine; I made all of the sail covers and the pop top enclosure. But the cushions intimidated me because of the close fitting necessary. Contact cement to the rescue! I didn't have to sew a stitch, and each cushion only took about an hour to make after I had cut the foam to fit. I even made a cushion for the bridge deck/companionway, which is where my wife likes to sit. I think backrests for the companionway sides are next. I also made a pair of J shaped backrests that fit over the cockpit coamings.


----------



## Barquito

Heinzir - That sounds like a good solution. OTOH, sewing cushions isn't too difficult. I don't have any sewing experience more than junior high home econ. Get the video from Sailrite. They describe how to make the sides and zippers without too much fuss. Even on a 27' boat the interior cushions do add up to a lot of material and foam.


----------



## heinzir

Barquito said:


> Heinzir - That sounds like a good solution. OTOH, sewing cushions isn't too difficult. I don't have any sewing experience more than junior high home econ. Get the video from Sailrite. They describe how to make the sides and zippers without too much fuss. Even on a 27' boat the interior cushions do add up to a lot of material and foam.


I have the video but don't need to mess with any of that; the project is done. And it took less than 1/10 of the time it would to sew covers for the cushions. I might reconsider when it comes time to redo the interior cushions but for the cockpit this works great!

Sorry about the double post. I'm trying to delete one but my computer does not like Sailnet and keeps locking up when I try to edit.


----------



## MedSailor

heinzir said:


> Gluing the Sunbrella directly to the foam with contact cement for my dinghy rowing seat was so easy and turned out looking so professional that it inspired me to finally make the cockpit cushions I had bought the materials for a couple of years ago.


Awesome! You just lay out the fabric on the foam and glue? For the seams, are they just cut fabric and glued also? Do they overlap?

What kind of foam did you use and what kind of cement?

I'm impressed!

MedSailor


----------



## heinzir

I didn't have any seams; my cushions are narrow enough that I was able to cover them with a single piece of fabric each. The sides are just folded over extensions of the top. If I did need seams, I would fold the edges of the fabric over 1/2" or so to hide the cut edges and butt the folds together.

I used 1" closed cell foam which is adequate for my small boat. It is harder than regular foam and not comfortable for sleeping but is adequate for seating my ample behind. For a fatter and softer cushion you could make a sandwich of regular and closed cell foam. The layers can also be glued together with contact cement. I would not use the foam designed to drain water right through in this application as both the Sunbrella and the layer of contact cement are relatively waterproof.

I used regular contact cement that comes in quart cans from the hardware store. It is usually used to apply laminate to countertops. You paint it on both surfaces (the fabric and the foam) with a disposable chip brush (NOT a foam brush). The trick is to let both surfaces sit for about twenty minutes until they are dry to the touch, then put them together. They will bond instantly so you have to be sure they are properly in place.

To make my cushions, I first cut the foam to shape. I used a piece of cardboard on the boat to make a template to get the curves right. I laid the Sunbrella out on the floor good side down. (Sunbrella does not normally have a "good" or "bad" side but I got a bargain on some fireproof stuff on ebay that definitely is different on each side. The finished side is a perfect color match with regular Sunbrella.) I laid the cut foam on top of the fabric and traced its outline about 3" wider than the foam all around. I cut out the fabric on this line. The extra 3" allowed the fabric to fold over the sides of the foam and onto the bottom a little.

Then it was just a matter of painting the contact cement on every square inch of the "in" side of the fabric, on the entire top side of the foam, and on the sides of the foam as well as a few inches along the bottom perimeter. Lay the fabric out on a flat floor and when the contact cement has dried to the touch put the foam on it. Make sure it is aligned correctly as it will bond instantly and is hard to remove or adjust. There should be 3" of fabric (more if your cushion is thick) sticking out all around the foam cushion. Fold this fabric up to form the sides and ends, and then fold what's left over the bottom. Remember, the cushion is upside down. You might have to make a few slits in the fabric on the bottom side or double fold on the curves to make it lay flat. The finished side of the cushion will be as perfectly flat as the floor you are working on.

I'm no expert; this is just what I did and it worked for me.


----------



## Finallybuyingaboat

Jetexas said:


> Did you glue the golf balls? I'd be worried they'd unscrew and go rolling around the boat.


I guess you could glue the golf balls onto the U bolt, but it is a fairly long thread and the material of the golf ball is soft enough to sort of grab onto the threads. Worst case, i reach into my golf bag for a replacment part!


----------



## bljones

101000+ views!!!!
Thanks for all the great contributions, folks. Keep 'em coming. Low-buck sailing is long-term sailing!


----------



## smackdaddy

bljones said:


> 101000+ views!!!!
> Thanks for all the great contributions, folks. Keep 'em coming. Low-buck sailing is long-term sailing!


+1. This is a hell of a thread.


----------



## miatapaul

*Re: Cigar boxes*



remetau said:


> Some use of cigar boxes. I think we paid about $8. The first one is storage for our handkerchiefs. The second one is for shaving needs.


I like that. I have a few boxes that I use to store razor blades (double edge, all I use unless I have time to use my straight) and another razors, but they are not mounted. They make great general small item storage, and my local smoke shop gives them out for free. I feel guilty picking them up as I have not smoked any thing since like 1980, but he would not accept any money. Almost made me want to start again. I mount a bit of foam free from work on one side to keep the items from shifting around.

Are you a member over at badgerandblade? I have the same handle over there.


----------



## PorFin

bl asked me to cross this from another thread on fiberglass repairs:

Being a cheap, miserly guy I tend to regret wasting stuff (although one could make a case that I absolutely LOVE to waste time, but that's another issue...). 

Like our dear friend bl, I've used the West pumps through gallons of resins, and I've never been disappointed with the mix. But those pumps aren't cheap (make that inexpensive) and that always rubbed me a little against the grain.

Fast forward a couple of projects. I had numerous spots that needed the strength of epoxy but not the volume even one pump of the West pumps delivered. I wound up using some MAS epoxy, which has a 2:1 mix ratio. Looking for the convenience of the metered pump (but without the cost) I raided our recycling bin and pulled out a couple of Dial liquid hand soap dispensers. I cleaned them up and grabbed our digital kitchen scale. I did some consistency checks using water as the medium, comparing the weight of single and multiple strokes of both pumps. Guess what? They were pretty much dead on. So, after charging them with the MAS resin and hardener, I now have a "metered" pump set for small batches of epoxy.


----------



## SloopJonB

*Re: Cigar boxes*



miatapaul said:


> I like that. I have a few boxes that I use to store razor blades (double edge, all I use unless I have time to use my straight) .


You shave with a straight razor on a BOAT?


----------



## py26129

Finallybuyingaboat said:


> <SNIP>. And voila! a home made sail prefeeder that works like a charm!


Absolutely brillliant!!!

My low buck project was a home built anemometer.

Parts required: 
3 plastic Table spoon measuring spoons from the dollar store $3
1 spray paint can lid, free
1 bicycle spedometer, Walmart, $10
1 bent stantion free
1 BBQ rail mount, free, found in garbage at the club, if you believe it
1 bearing, free scrounged form a dead VCR (ask your friends)​
Total cost: $13

Cut three slots in the paint at 120 deg. intervals and glue in the measuring spoons. Hot met glue works well. Use more hot melt glue to gleu theVCR bearing into the center for the paint can lid and glue the bike spedometer magnet to the inside of the paint can lid.

Trim the stantion to any height you like. I drilled and threaded the top (i.e. closed part) of the stantion to accept the thumb screw of the BBQ mount. Ttehn, use more hot melt glue to glue the stantion to the bearing in the paint can cap. Don't ask, but make sure it goes on straight else it wobbles in the most unprofessional manner.

Next tie wrap the bike speedometer thingie that nomally goes on the bike fork, to the stantion close to the magnet inside the cap.

To calibrate, beg, borrow or steal a hand held anemomenter and your wife's hair dryerand adjust the wheel size on the bike speedometer until the reaidngs on the hand held and the speedometer match.

Then take your new pride an joy to your boat and mount in a good place.

The cool thing is that most bike speedometers have a memory so you will be able to see max wind speed and average wind speed etc.

Cheers

Matt


----------



## Jetexas

How is the paint can lid holding up? Did you use the wireless bike speedometer?


----------



## PorFin

*Re: Cigar boxes*



SloopJonB said:


> You shave with a straight razor on a BOAT?


If that were me, I think that the money spent on bandaids would negate the savings... Of course, my wife would probably encourage me to try it (as long as the life insurance premiums were paid )


----------



## py26129

Jetexas said:


> How is the paint can lid holding up? Did you use the wireless bike speedometer?


After three years, the paint can lid looks like new. I'm not sure if I just got lucky or whether all of them will hold up like that.

I used a wired speedometer, essentially, because I was too cheap to spring for the wireless one. The wirless speedo would be nice but you would have to make sure you have enough clearance between the magnet an the stantion isinde the paint can lid.

Mat


----------



## Finallybuyingaboat

py26129 said:


> Absolutely brillliant!!!
> 
> My low buck project was a home built anemometer.
> 
> Parts required:
> 3 plastic Table spoon measuring spoons from the dollar store $3
> 1 spray paint can lid, free
> 1 bicycle spedometer, Walmart, $10
> 1 bent stantion free
> 1 BBQ rail mount, free, found in garbage at the club, if you believe it
> 1 bearing, free scrounged form a dead VCR (ask your friends)​
> Total cost: $13
> 
> Matt


Matt

Is there a picture of this anywhere? I want to build one, step it on top of my mast and run the wire down the inside of the mast to the bike speedometer.

Paul


----------



## miatapaul

*Re: Cigar boxes*



SloopJonB said:


> You shave with a straight razor on a BOAT?


Looks like remetau has it setup to. I only use them on shore, though I will use a double or single edge safety razor onboard if it is not rough out. If it is rough I prefer to look like a pirate, to a sliced neck!


----------



## py26129

Finallybuyingaboat said:


> Matt
> 
> Is there a picture of this anywhere? I want to build one, step it on top of my mast and run the wire down the inside of the mast to the bike speedometer.
> 
> Paul


Paul

I will try to take a pic tonight and post it. We're off on vacation as of tomorrow.

I got my inspiration from Bicycle Speedometer Anemometer | Otherpower . Also read about the egg cup anemometer referenced in the link above.

Cheers

Matt


----------



## Jetexas

So this one comes in just a hair under the $100 mark.










I used red oak and poplar for the two different shades of wood.

It took A LOT of sanding to clean all the glue up and level them out once they strips were laminated together. Then I slapped on a bit of stain and some varnish.

It has one stainless steel door hinge from Ace Hardware. It was $11 for two, so I've still got one for the next table.

Then I used a $30 stainless steel drop-leaf bracket from McMaster Carr.

McMaster-Carr

One end of the bracket is screwed into the bottom of the table. The other end is belted onto the pedestal with a stainless band clamp.


----------



## bljones

New stainless chafe guard installed, fabbed from a $22 door kickplate.

Dock Six Chronicles: Low-buck Project of the Week #82- Kickin' It.


----------



## asdf38

Boat Storage:
I've found boxes unsuited for small curved spaces but bags are too floppy. A great middle ground is a rectangular cooler bag. It's just stiff enough to hold its shape stay open and make finding its contents easy but easily stuffs into lockers and odd spaces. I have 4 or so of them to store engine parts, electrical supplies and household supplies. 

On clearance at the end of the summer they are about 10 bucks each. 

http://www.amazon.com/Ensign-Large-Insulated-Cooler-Black/dp/B000IG47UU/ref=sr_1_49?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1344887178&sr=1-49


----------



## sevseasail

*Re: Low buck "Solar Panel"*

I have very basic electrical needs; I have one group 31 battery that I use to run the stereo, keep cellphones charged and run navigational lights when needed. 
Me, being the way I am, don't like to leave the power cord connected to charge the batteries while I'm not there (I'm afraid to come back to a charred piece of fiberglass on the bottom of my slip) so, when I go sailing I don't spend too much time in the slip, therefore, I never get enough charge to sustain the battery. The solution: solar panel.

I looked for something small that I would not need a controller (keep it simple) and found a 5watt panel at Harbor Freight for $39.00 (great deal compared to a similar 5 watt panel at WM for $69.00) I actually like the aluminum construction of the frame a lot better than the plastic one at WM.










Then I considered the best place to mount it on the boat and came up with the stern pulpit, the only challenge was to come up with some sort of bracket or something to hold it in place, I dug through my garage scraps and found an aluminum "L" section that was perfect for the job, a couple of "U" bolts, nuts and washers from the store and some fabricating....

Here it is mounted to a pipe in my garage










Here's a closeup of the mounting bracket










Here it is on the boat










Another one










I installed it last Friday when the battery was showing 90% charge, came back on Sunday for a sail and the battery showed 100% charge, so, I'm pleased with the results. 
I forgot the cable ties, so I still have to finish the installation.

Panel cost: $ 42.00
Miscellaneous nuts, washers and bolts: $ 5.00 
Aluminum L bracket (garage scrap) $ 0.00
Not having to worry about charging the battery " Priceless"


----------



## Barquito

Sev - That is great! I have the same panel sitting on a shelf in the basement. Is yours mounted loose enough that you can adjust the angle of the panel on the rail?


----------



## sevseasail

Barquito said:


> Sev - That is great! I have the same panel sitting on a shelf in the basement. Is yours mounted loose enough that you can adjust the angle of the panel on the rail?


Thanks!!

And, no, it's not loose at all, I put a section of rubber between the U bolt and the railing as to give it more "grip" and avoid movement; I'm not using the clamp that comes with the U bolt, that one is flimsy and bends when tightened, instead the aluminum bracket is much more robust and allows for a good tightening; but it's just 4 nuts and I can re adjust the angle if needed. (the picture on the post above shows a closeup from behind mounted to a pipe in my garage, not on the boat)

I figure for my location 34deg. (which is the latitude) is the average position of the sun throughout one year, so, set it there and forget about it, sometimes it will be more effective than others (that is most effective when sun is in celestial equator) but for my needs it's fine.


----------



## bartvdv

One of my stereo speakers in my boat went to speaker-heaven.
I quite violently ripped out the old one, leaving me with some surface damage .

In an a secondhand computer store i got this car speaker (4 Ohms).










With a cheap underpant I upholstered the ugly grille:








Using some scrap metal wire. I added some drops of glue, to prevent unrafeling.
Result:









Speaker: 5 Euros (yes Euro's!)
Cloth: 3 Euros


----------



## eherlihy

*Keeping the "boat smell" at bay...*

I installed two Camframo 3 speed fans a while ago.








These were NOT low-buck.​
They work great while I am aboard, but I do not leave the boat connected to shore power when I'm not there. (Don't want to encourage galvanic corrosion, also don't want to find a charred hull at the bottom of my slip because I forgot to shut something off.)

I wanted to keep the air circulating when I was not there to help cut down on mold/mildew and other nasty sources of "eau-de boat", but I did not want to drain my batteries...

I bought a 5W solar panel for $35 on Amazon. 








When I leave the boat, I leave the solar panel on a cockpit seat and connect it to the 12V outlet under the companionway. My bow points north when I am in the slip. I turn the "Off, 1, Both, 2" battery switch to OFF (I also unplug the shore power at the dock box), but leave the breakers for the fans, and the 12V outlet on. When the sun hits the panel, the fans kick on and circulate the air.


----------



## travlin-easy

A few weeks ago we were debating whether or not a homemade swamp cooler would cool a mid sized boat during really hot weather. Lots of pros and cons, but after researching the cost of construction I decided to give it a try.

The cooler chest is a good quality Coleman that was purchased at BJ's Wholesale Club as a closeout for $12.95. It's a 36-quart cooler chest that came with a small 6-pack chest at no additional charge.

The fan, a 12-volt, 120-mm computer fan with 4 blue LEDs was purchased online for $6.99 with free shipping.

Another $4.99 went out at Radio Shack for a universal, 12-volt cigarette lighter plug.

I had some scrap paneling in the shed and lots of scrap speaker wire in the workshop, which rounded out the parts needed for construction.










About 18-pounds of ice was placed inside the cooler chest. A 7-pound block, a 6-pound bag of cubes, and another partly filled bag of cubes that probably had about 5-pounds in it.

The boat's cabin was about 84-degrees when all the hatches were shut and the swamp cooler fired up. The fan is dead quiet, and within a few seconds the air emitting from the vent holes was ice-cold. The blue LEDs served served as a great nite-light and provided a soft, blue glow in the main portion of the cabin. This turns out to be a great asset for old codgers with BPH that have to get out of the sack and visit the head a couple times a night.

It took about 2 hours before the cabin temperature was a comfortable 72 degrees. While I waited I watched the second half of a pre-season football game on the flat-screen TV. As anticipated, the humidity remained quite high inside the cabin, but at least it was cool enough to sleep comfortably. I have no way of measuring the humidity, so I don't know if it increased, but at that point I really didn't care.

At 4 hours the temperature had fallen below 70 degrees, which was just fine with me. I had to use a light blanket to keep warm. (Old folks get cold when the temperature falls below their age!  That's why we go south in winter.) :laugher

The ice lasted about 5 or 6 hours, but the air coming out of the swamp cooler was still relatively cool because the water in the cooler was ice-water. It took about another 2 hours after the ice melted for the water to warm to the cabin temperature. By that time I was cooking a cheese omelet with some chopped, sauteed onions and mushrooms to go with my English muffin and a couple strips of bacon. The stove, obviously, caused the temperature to rise a couple degrees, but it was still comfortable in the cabin.

*Conclusion: * The swamp cooler is by no means an economical method of air conditioning the cabin. It can, however, make life a lot bearable on those evenings when there's not a breath of air blowing where you're anchored up for the night and the temperature and humidity are in the mid 80s. I DO NOT believe it would be beneficial to use it during the day - it just couldn't handle the sun beating down on the cabin and hull. There are other benefits, though.

The swamp cooler can still be used as a cooler chest for keeping the booze and food cold. Additionally, the computer fan insert can be used as just a fan. It can be propped up on the opposite side of the Vee Berth or the far end of a quarter berth and used to circulate the air. The fan draws 0.41 amps, which is negligible and the turbo blades move 2.7 CFM of air, which is a fair volume for such a small fan.

The Swamp cooler will definitely be going with me to Florida for the winter. Last winter in Marathon's Boot Key Harbor was pretty darned hot during February and March, so I think it just may come in handy.

Cheers,

Gary


----------



## Faster

Our boat has a typical narrow transom from its era, and sitting on the coaming on a long beat it's always been a struggle to get a good foothold/footrest, esp when it's a bit bouncy.

For a few dollars' worth of plumbing bits, 20 mins with a tablesaw and a left over bit of Starboard this is the solution I came up with.

This unobtrusive disc attached to the center rear wall of the cockpit well...










And this drop-in foot rest fashioned from an ABS "T" fitting and a short piece of 2 inch pipe.










I originally wanted to use white plastic pipe, but we were just heading out and I couldn't find any at the time.. with this prototype I'll look around over the coming winter for a nicer looking model; but in reality it's stowed when not in use so maybe it doesn't matter.

Perhaps $12 in pieces, much of which was left on the shop floor...

BTW... after searching around for this thread I've decided to make it a sticky... congrats, BLJ!


----------



## Barquito

> With a cheap underpant I upholstered the ugly grille:


Holy crap, Batman. If this thread starts giving out awards, this will require a new category. McGyver's Underwear

That is a wonderful solution.


----------



## Ritchard

Barquito said:


> Holy crap, Batman. If this thread starts giving out awards, this will require a new category. McGyver's Underwear
> 
> That is a wonderful solution.


I actually giggled at that one. Wildly imaginative and shockingly frugal.


----------



## wmmulvey

*Extra Storage Space*

In need for a compact extra storage space.

A 24 pocket hanging shoe bag hanging on the head door.

BED, BATH & BEYOND

$14 AND CHANGE minus a 20% discount coupon

$11 AND CHANGE total cost


----------



## CarbonSink62

Console for stereo, VHF, and one speaker:










It fits where the stove should be and adds some counter space (also holds my butane burner).

I already had the electronics; I made the console from scrap plywood I had hanging around plus a small piece of furniture grade stuff for the lid (also hanging around). The only expense was some hardware and spray paint (about $3).

This is just a working mockup so I would have something for the stereo and VHF without drilling holes (that I'll likely change my mind about later). The final version will not have the speaker; the stereo & VHF will be lower and side by side. This will lower the burner; it's a little too close to the shelf behind the unit. I'll also add a fiddle to the edge of the lid and some cleats to hold the burner in place.


----------



## sailordave

PorFin said:


> Like our dear friend bl, I've used the West pumps through gallons of resins, and I've never been disappointed with the mix. But those pumps aren't cheap (make that inexpensive) and that always rubbed me a little against the grain.
> 
> Fast forward a couple of projects. I had numerous spots that needed the strength of epoxy but not the volume even one pump of the West pumps delivered. I wound up using some MAS epoxy, which has a 2:1 mix ratio. Looking for the convenience of the metered pump (but without the cost) I raided our recycling bin and pulled out a couple of Dial liquid hand soap dispensers. I cleaned them up and grabbed our digital kitchen scale. I did some consistency checks using water as the medium, comparing the weight of single and multiple strokes of both pumps. Guess what? They were pretty much dead on. So, after charging them with the MAS resin and hardener, I now have a "metered" pump set for small batches of epoxy.


I also used to have to make small batches of epoxy and HATED wasting a full stroke of each. I switched to MAS and bought a bunch of 50 ml mixing cups from Jamestown Distributors. A trip to the grocery store to buy a set of ketchup and mustard squeeze bottles for about $4... (do you see where this is going?) and voila! I squirt out 10 or 15 ml of resin, and half as much hardener to bring it up to 15 or 22.5 ml and there you go! 
Added benefit is I can store the epoxy some place cool and keep the squirt bottles in my shop to fill up when necessary.


----------



## SloopJonB

sailordave said:


> I also used to have to make small batches of epoxy and HATED wasting a full stroke of each. I switched to MAS and bought a bunch of 50 ml mixing cups from Jamestown Distributors. A trip to the grocery store to buy a set of ketchup and mustard squeeze bottles for about $4... (do you see where this is going?) and voila! I squirt out 10 or 15 ml of resin, and half as much hardener to bring it up to 15 or 22.5 ml and there you go!
> Added benefit is I can store the epoxy some place cool and keep the squirt bottles in my shop to fill up when necessary.


I'm currently using a 4-1 ratio epoxy and I use the same graduated cup system. I have to admit I prefer 2-1 or 1-1 ratios but the cups make accuracy simple with any ratio.


----------



## Paddyd

both the table and the netting I will be doing this wekend


----------



## bljones

excellent!
pics, man, we need pics!!


----------



## bljones

CarbonSink62 said:


> Console for stereo, VHF, and one speaker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fits where the stove should be and adds some counter space (also holds my butane burner).
> 
> I already had the electronics; I made the console from scrap plywood I had hanging around plus a small piece of furniture grade stuff for the lid (also hanging around). The only expense was some hardware and spray paint (about $3).
> 
> This is just a working mockup so I would have something for the stereo and VHF without drilling holes (that I'll likely change my mind about later). The final version will not have the speaker; the stereo & VHF will be lower and side by side. This will lower the burner; it's a little too close to the shelf behind the unit. I'll also add a fiddle to the edge of the lid and some cleats to hold the burner in place.


Hey, hey,this is the low-buck thread- there ain't no "working mock-ups" if it's working, it aint no mock-up- it's done. if it AIN'T working...it's a "pre-production prototype."

All kidding aside, it looks slick. but don't get rid of the functionality of the galley stove.


----------



## bartvdv

As for cushioning on the cockpit railings, i figured this out:









It's pipeline insulation for houses (smallest size) at 75 Eurocent/meter covered in black ducktape.
I copied this idea from a competition sailboat I saw once.


----------



## Faster

bartvdv said:


> As for cushioning on the cockpit railings, i figured this out:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's pipeline insulation for houses (smallest size) at 75 Eurocent/meter covered in black ducktape.
> I copied this idea from a competition sailboat I saw once.


When we did ours we slid a piece of plastic pipe inside the insulation.. you'll find the wire will cut through the foam in relatively short order wherever you lean on it. We also covered the works with a Sunbrella sleeve to match the canvas.


----------



## mikel1

Those look like fairly beefy lifelines . . .


----------



## ccriders

CarbonSink62 said:


> Console for stereo, VHF, and one speaker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final version will not have the speaker; the stereo & VHF will be lower and side by side.


You must not wear tri-focals. If you did, you would have to get down on your knees to read the dials!
But I like the idea and will try to use your idea to improve the functionality of my stove.


----------



## TakeFive

I think I posted some in-progress pics in another thread last winter, but not the finished product. So here's my under-$100 drop leaf cabin table upgrade.

The Catalina 250 is blessed/cursed with an oversized cabin table that is great for opening charts (and eating), but severely hinders access to the settee lockers and front v-berth (and its ample storage underneath). Also, the paper-thin white melamine laminate was yellowing from bleed-through of the brown sublayer, so I wanted to spruce up the appearance. (Also, I couldn't find matching melamine edgebanding, so I needed to resurface the whole table.)

Here's a "before" pic, with my proposed drop leaf seams Photoshopped in to see how it might fit:








Cardboard mock-up of the table:








Test of the drop-leaf brackets on my cardboard mock-up:








Table right after cutting with a circular saw:








After applying unfinished cherry veneer:










The finished product:

















Costs:

Cherry veneer: $40
Drop leaf brackets: $16
Nickel plated piano hinges: $9
100 SS screws: $10
Polyurethane clearcoat: $8

Note that I am in a freshwater environment and run a dehumidifier 24/7, so corrosion is less of a problem than it might be for some of you. I expect the chromate coated drop leaf brackets to hold up OK in this environment, but salt water might have required powder coat or $tainle$$ brackets (which I was unable to find at any price).

After almost a full season of use, this has been one of the best things that I have done for my boat. Access to all of the storage under the V-berth and settees is significantly improved. I keep the leaves down basically all the time, but flip them up as needed almost every time I am on the boat.


----------



## SloopJonB

Looks great - two thumbs up.


----------



## jppp

Looks great, super functional, improvement over existing system. This might win you 
LBPOTY.


----------



## Sea Dawg

Nice piece of work, all around. Good idea and good execution.


----------



## bljones

Nice work, RD/TF!

(Not to be confused with MGTF, which is a whole different bag of green onions.)


----------



## VK540

As this post was started in 2008. I am wondering if you set a limit of $200.00 to reflect inflation if more projects would get posted? Just a thought, nice thread, love it and either way I am getting good ideas at the $100.00 level!!


----------



## SloopJonB

VK540 said:


> As this post was started in 2008. I am wondering if you set a limit of $200.00 to reflect inflation if more projects would get posted? Just a thought, nice thread, love it and either way I am getting good ideas at the $100.00 level!!


Having the limit set at a "Boat Dime" is pretty low.


----------



## sailordave

I really didn't need the drop leaf table in my saloon. We prefer to eat in the cockpit, we can eat hold our plates if it's raining out and taking the table out really opened up the interior. Plus w/ numerous sails that I'm still sorting out...

Anyway taking out the table left four bolts sticking out of the sole. Even w/ the acorn nuts on they still posed a threat to bare toes and to klutzes that aren't observant of things.

I decided to put blocks of wood over the bolts to protect them and our feet.
Some years ago I scored some huge cutoffs of hardwood at the landfill in a dumpster! Mahogany and oak, 18x20x2" 

I cut blocks of mahogany to match the footprint of the table, drilled holes for the bolts and then used a forstner bit to drill a hole for the washers and to recess the acorn nuts.

As an added feature I decided to cut a slot in the bottom between the holes to take a strap so I can tie stuff down in between the blocks; sail bags, plastic bins, etc. Just need to get a soft rug to lay on the sole so it doesn't scratch.

Of course you have to stain and varnish appropriately!

Total cost. $0. I had the wood, stain and varnish on hand.


----------



## bljones

VK540 said:


> As this post was started in 2008. I am wondering if you set a limit of $200.00 to reflect inflation if more projects would get posted? Just a thought, nice thread, love it and either way I am getting good ideas at the $100.00 level!!


We haven't had 100% inflation in 4 years but you bring up a valid point.

The $100 limit was arbitrary, easy to remember and reflects my idea of low-buck- a handful of $20 bills, or less than 2 hours labour at most boatyards. That was true ion 2008 and is still true today.

But, i think there is a whole realm of "mid-buck" projects that could be explored.
VK, start the "Mid Buck Projects" thread for $200 boatwork...or maybe to be more inclusive, $200-500 boatwork projects.

Kick it off, brother!


----------



## Sumner10

I'll add one. Don't know the total cost, but way under $100.

We like to use the 2 1/2 gallon drinking water containers for drinking and cooking with. We were just putting it on the countertops and that would work fine while sitting up on stands in the boatyard but not very practical underway.

So where to put it and how to hold it in place? There was some room on one side of the sink next to the companionway, so that is where it went.










... where the larger right arrow is. It also had to not interfere with the propane solenoid switch.










The above picture is when it was about finished.










The platform will lift out of there, but it is in very secure and at this point I don't see any need for any pins, but that would be easy to do.

The water container....










...is also a very snug fit and there is a lip on the front of the platform that keeps it from sliding forward.

It is in a convenient place to use and still out of the way. Once in place we were quite happy with it.

You can find more pictures and the whole build here....

Interior Mods page 16

Sum

--------------------------------------------------

Our 26 MacGregor and Our 37 Endeavour and Our Trips


----------



## Barquito

That is a good idea... I have the same problem with my pony keg rolling all over the place.


----------



## PeterSailer

I built this wind vane a few years ago with my old man, I don't have any pictures of the building process but here is a video of "windy" doing what she does, steering =D

At this point it wasn't quite finished yet, there is no tiller on the auxiliary rudder. Notice the counter weight, a plastic bottle full of rocks screwed and epoxied in place as per the KISS system 






At one point for the counter weight we had a boot tied on 

Pierre


----------



## Sumner10

*How Many of You Hate Making up the V-Berth???*

Since there hasn't been much new activity since Pierre's neat post I thought I'd throw out another one.

I'm the one that gets the job of making up the V-berth bed in both boats and I've never liked it. First we started with full size sheets and blankets and they were a pain to get tucked under the mattress and you had all of that extra material.

Then we cut the sheets and blankets to better match the V-Berths shape and that helped but I still had to climb up in there and try and do the job.

Well that is a thing of the past now I can make the bed in the Endeavour standing up at the head of the bed and in the MacGregor pretty much the same way. I'm sure someone else must of done this so I'm not saying that it is original, but it sure is handy.

The 3 pages of pictures and info starts here...

Canvas Mods page 15

...but I'll summarize below.

The key to this working is cutting the mattress into 3 sections...










... and making covers for them. We have been sleeping in both boats on a mattress configuration like this for the past couple years and it feels like one continuous mattress under you.

Next step is to ...










...cut big hunks out of the fitted bottom sheet then...










sew it back together.










Next cut the top sheet and hem it so ...










...that it is wide enough to go over you but get rid of all of the access material. Then attach a slip cover to the ....










...end of it like above (sorry for the color change, but the sheet was cut & sewed the same).










To put the sheets on you start like above and you can bring the foot mattress back to you where you are standing at the berth. Put the cover on the mattress like above and leave the top sheet off to the right.










Next pull the bottom sheet over the foot mattress and let the elastic band pull some of the top sheet back under the mattress section like above. Notice that the top sheet is still off to the right.










Here is how things look at this point. You don't need it all laying out like above. I did that so that it is easier to see what is going on.










Next you just fold the top sheet back over the bottom sheet and the mattress. At this point you can take the mattress section with attached sheets and slide it forward on the V-Berth platform. Slide it in a ways and then take the second mattress section and lay it on the platform and pull the fitted sheet around the sides and under it. Then slide it and the foot section forward some more into the V-berth. Finish by doing the same with the last mattress section.

Now you just made the bed without getting into it. We also cut top blankets like the top sheet (with no sleeve at the bottom). If it is cold put how many blankets on the top of the sheets/mattresses as you slide them forward










This is one of the most practical things we have done to the boat. No extra bedding down at the foot. The top sheet doesn't pull out down there and you can make the bed standing up in the cabin. You can make the bed in less time than it takes to read the above. We love it or should I say that I really love it as making the bed is my job.

Again more pictures and info starting here....

Canvas Mods page 15

Sum

Our 37 Endeavour --- Our 26 MacGregor --- Trips With Both


----------



## smackdaddy

PeterSailer said:


> Notice the counter weight, a plastic bottle full of rocks screwed and epoxied in place as per the KISS system


I hope those are "marine quality" rocks. Standard home improvement rocks will corrode very quickly.


----------



## Ritchard

smackdaddy said:


> I hope those are "marine quality" rocks. Standard home improvement rocks will corrode very quickly.


I've had some success with exterior grade rocks.


----------



## SloopJonB

*Re: How Many of You Hate Making up the V-Berth???*



Sumner10 said:


> Since there hasn't been much new activity since Pierre's neat post I thought I'd throw out another one.
> 
> I'm the one that gets the job of making up the V-berth bed in both boats and I've never liked it. First we started with full size sheets and blankets and they were a pain to get tucked under the mattress and you had all of that extra material.


Pretty slick but I find sleeping under a down duvet makes it even simpler and easier.


----------



## Bob142

When I carried the dingy on the foredeck I had a problem...the rails are 7 feet off the water and the dingy is 8 feet...when the stern hit the water it would tend to go under the water..not good...

The bumper was a 2 dollar garage sale special the clips came from a dead bungy cord and the rope was laying around...

Problem solved...

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w079ttxr950j1ji/25kKw7SGiQ


----------



## Paddyd

what a good idea I am going to put one on today thanks


----------



## Paddyd

I went to wally world and bought a cutting board , stained it and varnished it 
there is the new table 
total costs around 20 bucks


----------



## Jgbrown

West marine fender holder in ss. Exactly the right size to mount a lite cylinder propane tank and keep it off my new teak. Beats milk crate any day, spacing allows easy building of a panel for the two stage regulator, solenoid and running hoses vertical to proper fittings in the deck. Cost me 55$ for the fender basket, and 30$ for the pair of proper thru deck fittings. Much better than typical cable ones or clamshell types imo.





Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk


----------



## fryewe

I am restoring a Nor'sea 27 that sank. The engine and engine controls and all the associated electrics were ruined. I installed a reconditioned Yanmar 2QM15 that I bought a few years ago and new engine controls.

Finding a Type B engine control and instrument panel (key switch; push to start button; high temp and low lube oil pressure lamps; buzzer) for the cockpit was problematic because they are no longer made (and have a list price of over $1000 if one were available).

I checked the wiring diagram in the engine manual and decided to build my own. I had an old ignition switch in my toolkit (free). I bought two dashboard indicating lamps (about 2.50 each) and a push to start switch (about 7.00) from an online hot rod supply warehouse and a couple of 12V buzzers from Amazon (about 3.00 each). 

I finished a piece of half inch okume plywood that was a cutoff from another project with Interlux Brightside; drilled holes and installed the push switch and indicators; and installed the plywood panel in the cockpit. I mounted the ignition switch and the buzzers inboard. After wiring the system it worked perfectly - provides engine start controls and visual and audible instrumentation for high temp and low oil pressure- and cost me less than twenty bucks.

I used a little dolfinite to seal the indicators in their holes and a little BoatLife caulk to seal the panel against the cockpit well bulkhead.


----------



## SloopJonB

fryewe said:


> I am restoring a Nor'sea 27 that sank. The engine and engine controls and all the associated electrics were ruined. I installed a reconditioned Yanmar 2QM15 that I bought a few years ago and new engine controls.
> 
> Finding a Type B engine control and instrument panel (key switch; push to start button; high temp and low lube oil pressure lamps; buzzer) for the cockpit was problematic because they are no longer made (and have a list price of over $1000 if one were available).
> 
> I checked the wiring diagram in the engine manual and decided to build my own. I had an old ignition switch in my toolkit (free). I bought two dashboard indicating lamps (about 2.50 each) and a push to start switch (about 7.00) from an online hot rod supply warehouse and a couple of 12V buzzers from Amazon (about 3.00 each).
> 
> I finished a piece of half inch okume plywood that was a cutoff from another project with Interlux Brightside; drilled holes and installed the push switch and indicators; and installed the plywood panel in the cockpit. I mounted the ignition switch and the buzzers inboard. After wiring the system it worked perfectly - provides engine start controls and visual and audible instrumentation for high temp and low oil pressure- and cost me less than twenty bucks.
> 
> I used a little dolfinite to seal the indicators in their holes and a little BoatLife caulk to seal the panel against the cockpit well bulkhead.


Nicely done. What did you do for an engine kill switch?


----------



## fryewe

SJB:
Interrogative "kill switch"?

I put the engine stop cable control just below and to starboard inside the main companionway adjacent to the main battery and engine ignition switches. There is no electrical "kill switch."


----------



## SloopJonB

fryewe said:


> SJB:
> Interrogative "kill switch"?
> 
> I put the engine stop cable control just below and to starboard inside the main companionway adjacent to the main battery and engine ignition switches. There is no electrical "kill switch."


Good spot for it. Mine is (was) a push button, like a start button, that activated a solenoid "cable puller".


----------



## Bob142

Before I get jumped on by the people that say how important quality is in LED's ...I will be happy if my cheap ones last for half of the 100,000 hours of the quality ones...

I bought 3 lights for 1.25 each at the dollar store...I broke them down...daisy chained them together...3 batteries are 4.5 volts each so they seem to handle the 12volt system well and aren't bothered by the charging load while running...I now have LED cabin lights for a total cost of $3.75 each...
https://www.dropbox.com/home#!/home/sailnet 1


----------



## bljones

An update on some older low-buck projects:

Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Long Term Review: Hits and Misses, Part 1


----------



## Ritchard

bljones said:


> An update on some older low-buck projects:
> 
> Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Long Term Review: Hits and Misses, Part 1


Thanks for that. You ARE a busy bee.


----------



## Sumner10

Bob142 said:


> Before I get jumped on by the people that say how important quality is in LED's ...I will be happy if my cheap ones last for half of the 100,000 hours of the quality ones...
> 
> I bought 3 lights for 1.25 each at the dollar store...I broke them down...daisy chained them together...3 batteries are 4.5 volts each so they seem to handle the 12volt system well and aren't bothered by the charging load while running...I now have LED cabin lights for a total cost of $3.75 each...
> https://www.dropbox.com/home#!/home/sailnet 1


I need a password for that link or do I have to setup an account?

I'd like to see the pictures,

Sum

==========================

Our 37 Endeavour --- Our 26 MacGregor --- Trips With Both


----------



## therapy23

Thanks for the truth.

Others should do the same.


----------



## Bob142

Sumner 10

Try this link instead...got to find a better way to post pics...

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8zuketlwx6tjc4f/sQnpDk5fZp?m


----------



## Sumner10

Bob142 said:


> Sumner 10
> 
> Try this link instead...got to find a better way to post pics...
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8zuketlwx6tjc4f/sQnpDk5fZp?m


That worked great. I really like the looks of the light....










...What are the fixtures you are using? Thanks,

Sum

===============================

Our 37 Endeavour --- Our 26 MacGregor --- Trips With Both


----------



## bljones

Low-Buck clamps:
Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Tools: 5 Minute Clamps


----------



## therapy23

bljones said:


> Low-Buck clamps:
> Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Tools: 5 Minute Clamps


Very nice indeed!

Thanks for that!


----------



## SloopJonB

bljones said:


> Low-Buck clamps:
> Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Tools: 5 Minute Clamps


BL, do those provide enough clamping pressure for anything other than epoxy? I'm thinking of the foaming expansion of the polyurethanes and the high pressure requirements of UF & resorcinol.


----------



## bljones

Sloopy, it depends on the wall thickness of the pipe used, as well as the thickness of the cross section, but on foams I'd use store bought clamps.


----------



## bljones

Low-Buck Lighting:

Dock Six Chronicles: Low -Buck Lighting Review: Old School Edition










To get to the link, click on the sig- subliminal advertising strikes again.


----------



## Ajax_MD

I have one of those crappy, red lanterns. The Deitz looks a far sight better.
I have two Weems and Plath yacht lanterns (Don't judge me, they came with the boat!) and I use them regularly.


----------



## jsaronson

I have two led lanterns that run on batteries.


----------



## bljones

Bubbles how do you like the weems and plath lanterns?


----------



## miatapaul

BubbleheadMd said:


> I have one of those crappy, red lanterns. The Deitz looks a far sight better.
> I have two Weems and Plath yacht lanterns (Don't judge me, they came with the boat!) and I use them regularly.


My understanding is that the "old" Weems and Plath lanterns work well, but the new ones are really for decoration and do not work as well, and frequently leak.

I had a couple of the cheap red lanterns from Big Lots that lasted a few years, paid 4.99 for them. Worked for my purposes, but would not want to try to read by the light. They were nice on the porch, and did not attract insects.

Don't worry I think we have already "judged" you! :laugher:laugher


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

bljones said:


> Sloopy, it depends on the wall thickness of the pipe used, as well as the thickness of the cross section, but on foams I'd use store bought clamps.


to add more pressure you could slip a section of inner tube over the clamp


----------



## Bob142

Sorry Sumner10 long delay...

I can't help with the name or manufacturer of the lights ... They came with the boat so I think 1972 ... All they have is the voltage and made in Japan...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob142 
Sumner 10

Try this link instead...got to find a better way to post pics...

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8zuketlwx6tjc4f/sQnpDk5fZp?m

That worked great. I really like the looks of the light....

...What are the fixtures you are using? Thanks,

Sum


----------



## willyd

My boat came with a heavy-duty Garelick Eez-in outboard motor bracket that was mounted to a custom-made wooden base on the transom. Unfortunately, the Garelick bracket didn't put any of the long-shaft outboards I tried low enough in the water, and couldn't be adjusted further. I sold the Garelick and devised this mount from two aluminum L-shaped pieces and two square sheets, a surplus wooden bracket, and some stainless bolts and screws. I had to cut the inner edge of the square aluminum pieces at an angle so that the motor sat lower in the water.


----------



## downeast450

Emergency tiller!

I prefer a tiller. My I-28 has a wheel. It also has (had and still has) its original tiller. Mr. Perry designed a very well balanced boat. I replaced the wooden tiller with a short section of aluminum pipe and now have a tiller, too! It stands vertical over the rudder post and spins out of the way when not in use. After I have cleared the lobster pot danger zone I can relax and steer with one finger. It will allow me to add a Raymarine ST2000. I want to play with John Letcher's Self-Steering for Sailing Craft ideas, too.




























Free! It was a piece of scrap I scrounged.

Down


----------



## MedSailor

Looks good. What is the fitting you are using to connect the rod to the stanchion post cap?

MedSailor


----------



## downeast450

It is the original tiller's fitting. I just removed the wooden tiller and bolted on the piece of pipe. It took two measured taps with a 4 pound hammer to flatten it where necessary. The wooden tiller is resting in the shed.

The wheel was an "upgrade" by a po. Thankfully the original tiller stayed with the boat.

Down


----------



## Brewgyver

Downeast, I'm a tillerman, too (Tea, anybody? ) Just had to ask what that huge lever just forward of the wheen is? Turn signal stalk? 
Oh, and nice clean job, too.


----------



## downeast450

Thanks,

The huge one to port is the shift lever for the A-4. The end of the throttle lever is just visible to starboard. Reverse with an A-4 is held in place while using. You yank up on her and hold.

Down


----------



## RobGallagher

Hmmmm... using your emergency till for an auto pilot.... hmmmm.... anyone else done this?


----------



## downeast450

My "emergency tiller" Is the boats tiller with a shortened arm that is now a piece of aluminum. Instead of storing the "emergency tiller" somewhere below, it lives, out of the way on the rudder post. I can mount the tiller pilot to this tiller just the same way I would if I didn't have a wheel. The boat is very well balanced and the leverage will be more than adequate.

Much simpler than installing one on the wheel. Less expensive, too.

Down


----------



## Brewgyver

downeast450 said:


> Thanks,
> 
> The huge one to port is the shift lever for the A-4. The end of the throttle lever is just visible to starboard. Reverse with an A-4 is held in place while using. You yank up on her and hold.
> 
> Down


I should have guessed that, I have an A4, too, levers on port side of cockpit, back and hold for reverse.


----------



## richardb123

No pic yet, but two of my boats steered wonderfully with a shet to tiller system made from surgical hose. Cost almost nothing. Steered for hundreds of coastal miles.


----------



## downeast450

Richard,

I am looking forward to "playing" with it. Our summer sailing conditions here will compliment it well. Playing with the wind is what we are doing, right? Getting it to take care of the helm will be fun!

If you have pictures you can share that would be great. "The Man", John Letcher, is a neighbor here on Mount Desert Island. I don't plan to bother him but he is a wonderful resource if I need it. It looks straight forward enough for my limited abilities.

Down


----------



## MarkofSeaLife

I've been looking for a new tool box in the last 10 or so countries.
Mine is ok but too small, and has a great concertina top for old nuts and bolts etc.
It lives under the Nav seat so there's a bit of room but not for a bigger box.

Also wanted to separate the spanners (wrenches) from the junk and can never find a flicking screwdriver, let alone the one that I want!

Did a few HOURS in Home Depot (like Bunnings in Australia) and nothing suited.

But they did have a BUCKET bag that turns a bucket into a tool bag... Which I don't want....










But at* $7.20 *incl tax there was promise!










Separated and laid out









Cut into four parts.

Rolled up they fit in the Nav seat with the tool box.

And I still have one piece left over.... Goody I can buy more tools!


----------



## MastUndSchotbruch

*Re: Low buck "Solar Panel"*



sevseasail said:


> I have very basic electrical needs; I have one group 31 battery that I use to run the stereo, keep cellphones charged and run navigational lights when needed.
> Me, being the way I am, don't like to leave the power cord connected to charge the batteries while I'm not there (I'm afraid to come back to a charred piece of fiberglass on the bottom of my slip) so, when I go sailing I don't spend too much time in the slip, therefore, I never get enough charge to sustain the battery. The solution: solar panel.
> 
> I looked for something small that I would not need a controller (keep it simple) and found a 5watt panel at Harbor Freight for $39.00 (great deal compared to a similar 5 watt panel at WM for $69.00) I actually like the aluminum construction of the frame a lot better than the plastic one at WM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I considered the best place to mount it on the boat and came up with the stern pulpit, the only challenge was to come up with some sort of bracket or something to hold it in place, I dug through my garage scraps and found an aluminum "L" section that was perfect for the job, a couple of "U" bolts, nuts and washers from the store and some fabricating....
> 
> Here it is mounted to a pipe in my garage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a closeup of the mounting bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is on the boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I installed it last Friday when the battery was showing 90% charge, came back on Sunday for a sail and the battery showed 100% charge, so, I'm pleased with the results.
> I forgot the cable ties, so I still have to finish the installation.
> 
> Panel cost: $ 42.00
> Miscellaneous nuts, washers and bolts: $ 5.00
> Aluminum L bracket (garage scrap) $ 0.00
> Not having to worry about charging the battery " Priceless"


I believe I bought the same panel some time ago, don't even remember for what project. But when I looked at the specs, I don't think it was rated for outdoor settings. Is yours?


----------



## Ritchard

*Re: Low buck "Solar Panel"*



MastUndSchotbruch said:


> I believe I bought the same panel some time ago, don't even remember for what project. But when I looked at the specs, I don't think it was rated for outdoor settings. Is yours?


What good would an indoor solar panel do you?


----------



## MarkofSeaLife

*Re: Low buck "Solar Panel"*



Ritchard said:


> What good would an indoor solar panel do you?


To give you a fake tan!


----------



## downeast450

Dash replacement.

I added a tach and had to mount it in the dash. A scrap of marine plywood, some epoxy fairing putty and a coat of epoxy paint and now TD has rpms to watch from the helm.

The old









The process

















The product

















Cost? The tach cost a few bucks so it isn't part of the low buck project. The dash was from stuff in my shop.

I have asked Santa for an inexpensive automotive backup video camera ($30.00) that I plan to flush mount at the base of TD's pedestal facing the dash. My Garmin chart plotter has a video input I am not currently using. It would be nice to have the chart plotter's display include my A-4's instruments. It is worth a try. I will report back!

Down


----------



## MastUndSchotbruch

*Re: Low buck "Solar Panel"*



Ritchard said:


> What good would an indoor solar panel do you?


This is a question you may want to ask Harborfreight. The instruction manual contains a warning "Do only use in dry environments."


----------



## kellysails

I completed my first major project on my new boat, whew! And since it was a low buck project I thought I would publish.☺ This is not ground breaking or earth shattering stuff but I feel great about it. The boat came with the primary fuel filter (500MA) placed where it literally could not be serviced. The T-bolt was too close to the ceiling of the engine room so it could not be removed without UNSCREWING a panel from the aft berth storage cabinet. The bowl of the filter was 1.5 inches straight above the exhaust hose and draining would turn into a huge mess every time. As I do not carry a crew of Lilliputians that could pull this off I needed to move it. The dealer offered to move it over 5 inches and lower it but this would only be a slight improvement as the access doors to get in this space are tiny and would require a longer reach to get at it. The end solution was to put it on the outside engine room bulkhead in my storage/shop area.

I had to extend the both fuel lines about 18 inches so I bought (two) two barb fittings, eight hose clamps, wall grommets, hose clips, and a yard of A1 fuel line. Then there was the bolt that I dropped into never never land that had to be replaced (need to find that someday). Also the 500MA required a 23mm wrench that I didn't have. Additionally, I decided to change to 10 micron filter (was 30) because it is much easier to replace now. So, (only) three trips to the local hardware/marine store. I also ordered a quick drain valve fitting, from KTI Systems, which replaces the drain bolt on the Racor, not installed yet. All in all, spent $50 on a setup that is 10x safer.

The end goal is that my wife or I will be able to drain the bowl and change the filter in less than 30 seconds, without fuel in the bilge or a single bruised knuckle. I will also be able to easily drain out an ounce or so prior to every use to remove any standing gunk in the bowl. I was able to validate the low-pressure fuel line bleeding process, easy, worked perfectly.

Future fuel system upgrades
- Vacuum gauge with alarm
- New fuel tank selector manifold, the current one is brain dead and does not allow you to select which tank receives the fuel return. I will at that point make all the lines continuous without the dual barb connector. 
- Maybe a dual filter system, thinking about that, not sure that it is needed now.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE!
I just received a note from my dealer, Beneteau is going to give me a check for $65 for parts/effort to move the filter while my boat is under warranty! It makes sense, but hugely unexpected!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Attached pictures are the before and after.


----------



## sailortjk1

My low buck project. An O'day Javelin. Picked her up last year and just brought her home.
Everybody needs a project to keep them out of trouble and busy for the off season.


----------



## bigdogandy

Replaced the old and nasty white plastic box that housed the electronics at the helm station with a box I made from some scrap teak I got from a neighbor at the dock, a piece of plexiglass from Home Depot, and a couple of plastic cupholders from West Marine. Total cost was about $20 bucks, not including the ratcheting crimper I bought to make up the electrical connections in the box.


----------



## SloopJonB

bigdogandy said:


> Replaced the old and nasty white plastic box that housed the electronics at the helm station with a box I made from some scrap teak I got from a neighbor at the dock, a piece of plexiglass from Home Depot, and a couple of plastic cupholders from West Marine. Total cost was about $20 bucks, not including the ratcheting crimper I bought to make up the electrical connections in the box.


Nice piece. I'd recommend against using ogee or other finely cut edges on deck though - very difficult to keep a finish on them. Simple roundovers are far more practical.


----------



## MarkofSeaLife

It looks terrific!


----------



## algee

Nice job! I have an E-32 on the SW side of Florida, and have been looking for a way to mount electronics to the pedestal guard. How did you attach the box to the ped. guard?


----------



## bigdogandy

algee said:


> Nice job! I have an E-32 on the SW side of Florida, and have been looking for a way to mount electronics to the pedestal guard. How did you attach the box to the ped. guard?


Thanks...I through-bolted the box to the brackets at the tops of the pedestal verticals. It's amazingly stout.


----------



## Ritchard

algee said:


> Nice job! I have an E-32 on the SW side of Florida, and have been looking for a way to mount electronics to the pedestal guard. How did you attach the box to the ped. guard?


I've also got an E32. I went the not-entirely-scottish route and bought a used navpod. That was okay, about $50 on eBay, but the new pedestal guard and pedestal plate was $spendy! Looks slick though, and fits everything nicely.


----------



## downeast450

Nice!

Down


----------



## Ritchard

Come, on, it's winter. You all must be up to some cheapskatery! There hasn't been a post in three weeks.

Inspired by the solar vent repair thread,

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/47138-nicro-day-night-2000-solar-vent-repair-2.html#post982708

I thought I should try and make my vents work better. One was noisy, one was impotent. I took them off and brought them home to tinker. So last night I took them all apart and got going with my multimeter ( I love a multimeter). I found that one solar cell was pretty well pooched, and one motor as suspected had bad bearings and was quite noisy. I figured I could likely pick up spares at the big (and fun) electronics surplus shop. But I thought, maybe I can find what I need on eBay, save a trip and have them mailed.

I searched "round solar cell" and found this:















It's exactly what I already have! Looking more closely, some previous owner had bought these inexpensive solar exhaust fans, painted them white, and installed them under a presumably already existing chrome trim ring. Now, this is me cheaping out a bit, not replacing them with some $150 "marine" unit, but the last set would have lasted at least 7 years for the previous owner. For $80 the pair shipped, I figure I am well ahead, even if they only last another 7 years.

I think I will take them apart and try to install a rechargeable lithium battery of some kind, I have to figure out the optimal voltage of these units. is there a trick I need to know, some circuitry involved in putting in a battery?

R


----------



## miatapaul

Ritchard said:


> Come, on, it's winter. You all must be up to some cheapskatery! There hasn't been a post in three weeks.
> 
> Inspired by the solar vent repair thread,
> 
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/47138-nicro-day-night-2000-solar-vent-repair-2.html#post982708
> 
> I thought I should try and make my vents work better. One was noisy, one was impotent. I took them off and brought them home to tinker. So last night I took them all apart and got going with my multimeter ( I love a multimeter). I found that one solar cell was pretty well pooched, and one motor as suspected had bad bearings and was quite noisy. I figured I could likely pick up spares at the big (and fun) electronics surplus shop. But I thought, maybe I can find what I need on eBay, save a trip and have them mailed.
> 
> I searched "round solar cell" and found this:
> 
> Solar Panel Roof Vent (round) Green House, RV, Shed Fan | eBay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's exactly what I already have! Looking more closely, some previous owner had bought these inexpensive solar exhaust fans, painted them white, and installed them under a presumably already existing chrome trim ring. Now, this is me cheaping out a bit, not replacing them with some $150 "marine" unit, but the last set would have lasted at least 7 years for the previous owner. For $80 the pair shipped, I figure I am well ahead, even if they only last another 7 years.
> 
> I think I will take them apart and try to install a rechargeable lithium battery of some kind, I have to figure out the optimal voltage of these units. is there a trick I need to know, some circuitry involved in putting in a battery?
> 
> R


They offer them for $27 direct from there store.

SOLAR POWERED ROOF VENT (Round Base) - SolarSales

I know nothing about the company but happened to go to there website to see if they had anything else useful.


----------



## tschmidty

You can't just use a lithium battery. Do they not have a battery at all in them now? There would be some circuitry you would need to add a battery to them. There are some that have a battery already, here is one example but it does yellow in the sun and the motors are pretty weak.

Wel-Bilt Solar Vent | Ventilation| Northern Tool + Equipment


----------



## Ritchard

> They offer them for $27 direct from there store.
> 
> SOLAR POWERED ROOF VENT (Round Base) - SolarSales
> 
> I know nothing about the company but happened to go to there website to see if they had anything else useful.





> You can't just use a lithium battery. Do they not have a battery at all in them now? There would be some circuitry you would need to add a battery to them. There are some that have a battery already, here is one example but it does yellow in the sun and the motors are pretty weak.
> 
> Wel-Bilt Solar Vent | Ventilation| Northern Tool + Equipment


After I got them on eBay (made an offer for $25 plus shipping) I found them in other places as well, by the time you add shipping, it all ended up about the same. I was pretty excited to have found the things on eBay, so I went ahead and got 'em. To reiterate, these are EXACTLY what has been on the boat since I think maybe 2006. With this in mind, I think they are a good choice, as fitment will not be an issue at all.

As part of the marinizing of them, I will take them apart and paint them white with Krylon or something like a previous owner did with the previous set. They currently have no battery, but a poster in the Solar vent repair thread suggested NiCad or NimH instead of lithium, and that a diode to prevent the batteries from discharging into the cell would be advised. Now I plan to get a set of 4 AAA batts for each fan, install them serial/parallel so that they end up at 2.4V, but double the maH capacity from a single pair.

Cheapskateness sometimes isn't as cheap as it first appears, but for me it is also the sport that makes it fun.


----------



## tschmidty

Yeah, hooking the batteries up will work fine. I'd check the output though, I doubt you would charge the batteries enough to make dual batteries feasible.


----------



## PaulinVictoria

My latest contribution. I picked up a 2007 Northstar M84 headunit with a C-Map chip of the local area from a local 2nd hand/consignment store, he had it on sale for $350, I paid him $100.
I then managed to locate a compatible Navman GPS receiver in another consignment store, $20, some aluminium bar ($6) and a TV mounting arm from a local electronics place going out of business ($25).
I fabricated a mounting bracket and fitted it all up today, didn't even have to run power to it as I had left the wires in place when I replaced the busted depth sounder with the bargain TackTick unit.
I now have an 8.4" colour chartplotter/MFD for a whisker under $160


----------



## bljones

Sweet!


----------



## Razcar

*Re: instrument mounting*



roline said:


> Installing instruments so you can see them while sailing and fold them inside for storage or when its time to drop the chute. It also allows for watching depth while at anchor at night while inside. I did this project on my Santana525 over 10 yrs ago. Plywood scraps, 2 sets of hinges and a couple spring loaded cabinet closure stoppers. When in the folded in position, I did not add additional fastening to hold them in position. I thought of adding magnets, that would have been real bright especially next to the compass!!!! The wire cables had the spiral plastic sheave over them to hold them in a neat bundle. It acted to help position them in the inward position. The main reason behind my madness of mounting the instruments on the folding doors is that I don't like to drill holes in boats........ If a hole is already there I don't mind modification of it.....


This is really innovative. I love it!


----------



## Razcar

Ritchard said:


> I've had some success with exterior grade rocks.


I've coated my rocks in varnish for a great look.


----------



## bljones

Razcar said:


> I've coated my rocks in varnish for a great look.


Better than coating them with bottom paint.


----------



## Ritchard

This is my favourite thread of all time. Need more!


----------



## H2814D

Guess what I'm building? Shouldn't be too hard. I'll post the real pics and details after it's finished.


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## deltaten

Hatchboard A/C mount, with support knees ! 
DO I get a cookie?


----------



## katsailor

deltaten said:


> Hatch board A/C mount, with support knees !
> DO I get a cookie?


How do you get in and out of the boat if the ac unit is blocking the hatchway?


----------



## Ritchard

Thankfully, boats never catch on fire, or it could be considered a liability. Oh wait...


----------



## mergens

Walmart has a great selection of inexpensive LED lights in their automotive aisle. They are completly sealed and about sixteen dollars for a twelve inch strip of LEDS. Should you want to shorten the strip, it can be cut and still works


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## H2814D

katsailor said:


> How do you get in and out of the boat if the ac unit is blocking the hatchway?


It will only block the lower portion of the companionway. I am replacing the two lower companionway slats with this. The top of it will only be 20 inches above the step. In the event of a need for a quick escape, like a fire, it is easily stepped over. I also have a forward hatch that is large enough to exit in an emergency.

The unit will only be in place while docked in my slip. I need the shore power to run it anyway. Gets pretty warm on Lake Mead in the summer and I only anticipate using it while docked.


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## Ritchard

We're only bugging you 'cause we're jealous you live in a climate that requires AC.


----------



## macwester26

Easy to make assorted sizes Dry bags.
Used for dry storage for yachting camping.or whatever you wish.

easy to make....

http://sonar.x90x.net/How%20to%20make%20a%20drybag.pdf
may take a while to download..

Robert.


----------



## FinallySailing

Not really a project, but cheap and cheerful anytime:

Been using these bags from a famous Swedish furniture company for all sorts of things around the boat, from outboard cover, rope tote to sail bag. At the price it doesn't matter if they only last a season (most last much longer).


----------



## bljones

Finally and macwester, welcome aboard, and thanks for the great contributions.
I agree about the versatility of IKEA bags. They also make great ice bags to keep drinks cold at large gatherings.


----------



## miatapaul

FinallySailing said:


> Not really a project, but cheap and cheerful anytime:
> 
> Been using these bags from a famous Swedish furniture company for all sorts of things around the boat, from outboard cover, rope tote to sail bag. At the price it doesn't matter if they only last a season (most last much longer).


There larger bag they sell at the checkout (I think $0.75 or so it has been a while) make the best laundry baskets as well! And they fold up small.


----------



## pdqaltair

A sea chest. They've been practical for generations. Though small boats don't have the room, smaller custom-sized ones can make useful steps for too-high bunks and add storage. Just build it from scraps. I was going to paint it, which is more traditional, but my wife told me not to.










Sail Delmarva: Woodwork: the Finishing Bench and the Sea Chest


----------



## Seaduction

H2814D said:


> Guess what I'm building? Shouldn't be too hard. I'll post the real pics and details after it's finished.


Ahhh..yes...that was my first step toward climatizing my boat. The second step was an on-the-floor- Soleus air conditioner from Home Depot. The third and final step was buying a Mermaid AC unit and installing it. Save yourself some misery and buy a Mermaid (or other brand) now!!!!!


----------



## SloopJonB

She was right.


----------



## bljones

Nice work, pdq- you're right, sea chests are wicked handy aboard.


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## Barquito

> A sea chest.


Maybe consider some way to keep it from sliding around on boats that are not endowed with two hulls?


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## rickinnj

Subscribing


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## FinallySailing

Another cheap project I did last summer was my outboard engine hour counter.

I treated "Rockhopper" last summer to a new outboard. Like most of the smaller engines it does not come with an hour meter. So how would I know when to do the next service    ?

I found a simple solution for just over £10 on fleebay: An hour meter that works via induction from the spark plug. No batteries, no complicated connections.










All I had to do was to wrap the induction wire around the wire that goes to the sparkplug inside the engine.










Then fixed the wire with twist ties and self amalgamating tape.










Finally stuck the meter with outdoor double sided tape inside the outboard.










Simple  !


----------



## sailawaylater

I am in need of a outhaul car for my boom with a 3/4" internal track. Any ideas. The boat is a 41' Morgan Classic. Surely someone has one laying around.


----------



## SloopJonB

sailawaylater said:


> I am in need of a outhaul car for my boom with a 3/4" internal track. Any ideas. The boat is a 41' Morgan Classic. Surely someone has one laying around.


Have you tried Catalina? They built them and are famous for their customer support.


----------



## therapy23

FinallySailing said:


> Another cheap project I did last summer was my outboard engine hour counter.
> 
> I treated "Rockhopper" last summer to a new outboard. Like most of the smaller engines it does not come with an hour meter. So how would I know when to do the next service    ?
> 
> I found a simple solution for just over £10 on fleebay: An hour meter that works via induction from the spark plug. No batteries, no complicated connections.
> 
> All I had to do was to wrap the induction wire around the wire that goes to the sparkplug inside the engine.
> 
> Then fixed the wire with twist ties and self amalgamating tape.
> 
> Finally stuck the meter with outdoor double sided tape inside the outboard.
> 
> Simple  !


Simple and cool for sure.

I wish I could have found an inexpensive hour meter when I put my last outboard into service. Calculating (guessing) hours is ridiculous.

I don't know how that thing works. Does RPM (firing rate) make a difference? I couldn't of course - I wonder how it works.


----------



## FinallySailing

It works just by induction via the wire that is wrapped around the spark plug wire. Similar to charging an electric toothbrush, I guess. The latest version of this btw has an RPM counter as well, not that I see much need on that for my outboard ...


----------



## therapy23

FinallySailing said:


> It works just by induction via the wire that is wrapped around the spark plug wire. Similar to charging an electric toothbrush, I guess. The latest version of this btw has an RPM counter as well, not that I see much need on that for my outboard ...


I was just wondering how it counted stuff since the sensor input would be pulses that vary with time.


----------



## FinallySailing

therapy23 said:


> I was just wondering how it counted stuff since the sensor input would be pulses that vary with time.


Just my educated guess ... the internal battery/accumulator of the hour meter gets maintained via induction. At the same time whenever the gadget senses current through the wire to the spark plug the counter starts counting, but when there is no further current for a defined time it stops counting.


----------



## SloopJonB

That's always been my understanding - it just clocks how long it's energized. It's a timer, not a counter.


----------



## Bene505

It would be easy enough to power the counter off of induced current. Then when the curent is gone, the counting stops and the device turns off. 

I wonder if you get to see the elapsed hours when you are not running the engine. If you have to turn the engine on first, then it's a pretty simple design.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## therapy23

Thanks all.


----------



## bobmcgov

We're just beginning forward movement on the Albin Ballad 30 refit. It's going to stretch over four years or so, and we can't be throwing money at it until the later stages. For now, it is structural stuff and planning the new cabin layout. Strange as it seems, the icebox is one of the first things you have to locate. Ours was a FG bin with 1/16" Ensolite wrapped around it. Swedish boat -- you probably put things in the icebox to keep them warm. Not going to cut ice (so to speak) in the tropics.

When you plan this exercise, it's unnerving how fast a little insulation reduces the volume of the box, or increases its outside dimensions. We sorta split the difference. One inch of blue foam inside, reducing volume from 1.5 cu.ft to about 1 cu.ft. Then 1.5" blue foam + 2" foil-faced polyiso on the outside, turning it into a fat little beastie. Its finished dimensions will dictate everything else in the galley. In fact, we had to notch the bridge deck underpanel & let the cooler intrude into the cockpit locker a couple inches.



Side toward hull is covered in foil-bubble wrap & the exposed faces have Formica epoxied to them: unclad polyiso will burn like a torch if a flame is held to it. It qualifies as low-buck cuz all the materials were already in the garage.

Here is the countertop it's going under:





Red lammy on the underside, sort of a coral-water blue on top. (Both remnants from kitchen jobs.) Flap over the alcohol stove will have take-apart hinges & can be slung over the settee as extra counterspace while cooking. There's a deep bin behind that, which lid you can just see the edges of. Haven't cut the sink hole yet, cuz we want a deeper sink. Which is a hard thing to find.


----------



## n8kraft

I wired my Furuno GPS/Radar/Chartplotter to my Icom VHF Radio. It was a pretty low bucks project because I used extra stuff I had around from other projects. It just took a bit of wire and some connector pins.










It all started when I turned on the Furuno RDP-149 NavNet VX2 chartplotter and Icom 504 VHF radio for the first time. I noticed the radio said "No Position No Time" and it was right next to the chartplotter that gets its position and time from its GPS antenna. I want our location to be inputted in to VHF radio so if I need to press the distress button an automatic call can go out to the Coast Guard and our position will be automatically transmitted. It's also nice that our position will be displayed on the radio so it's easy to tell buddy boats where we are, or for a less emergent situation like a Securite or Pan Pan call.



























The whole story is on my blog:Adding NMEA GPS Location to a VHF Radio | Aboard Astraea


----------



## Ritchard

Mine was way easier to plumb the GPS into the Radio. My dirty-low-ender (c. 1987 Duane Pilgrim) Uniden cheapie radio had a pair of wires among the harness just waiting to be provided with GPS goodness. One paired wire, 4 quick solders.


----------



## FirstCandC

Greatest thread ever. Thanks to all!


----------



## H2814D

Just fabricated a new instrument panel from a piece of white acrylic. All new gauges. Looks much better now. $17.80 for the panel. Oh yea, I guess I spent a little more to replace the instruments, but it was still low considering what "boat bucks" are.


----------



## deniseO30

Did this right after the new refrigeration was installed. cheap solar powered remote digital thermometer. Yes it's reading 36









Box is nearly done. Don't know if there's a paint that will stick to polyethylene that the old box is made of. Still need to paint the lid finish the weather strip,and decide on the the sealing the foam to the inside of the bottom 

































Not hopeful even after reading this: "Krylon® Fusion applies easily to a broad range of plastic surfaces including ABS, PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, fiberglass and rubber. It also can be used with excellent results on wood and metal, so it is ideal for color-coordinating multiple surfaces when one is plastic." Guess I'll try it someday. 

Oday's boxes were well insulated. I did add some on the engine side aft and forward sides.


----------



## vtsailguy

How about a "project-to-be" that I am going to do.

I have three boys, and a welcome addition would be a screen to show movies. The wiring involved however, with the DVD an all, was over kill. Not to mention the draw of the screen AND DVD player.

At home I have been playing with an Apple TV and it is amazing!

I plan to have a low amp draw flat panel connected to an Apple TV and then a wireless booster. Then I can suck down internet moves like Netflix with this one device.


----------



## vtsailguy

Not sure if its here yet, but bags from old sails


----------



## Ritchard

vtsailguy said:


> How about a "project-to-be" that I am going to do.
> 
> I have three boys, and a welcome addition would be a screen to show movies. The wiring involved however, with the DVD an all, was over kill. Not to mention the draw of the screen AND DVD player.
> 
> At home I have been playing with an Apple TV and it is amazing!
> 
> I plan to have a low amp draw flat panel connected to an Apple TV and then a wireless booster. Then I can suck down internet moves like Netflix with this one device.


I have an Apple TV at home and love it, in fact I've had two. However the one I now have is an Apple TV 2, and is hacked so that it can be used as a full media player; ie. you can hook it to an outboard drive and play your own movies as well as use the Netflix client, or rent from iTunes. The Apple TV 3 cannot yet be hacked in the same way, so you would be limited to Netflix and iTunes. I would hate to drive anybody away from the company whose stock I own, but you might consider one of the other set top boxes that will allow you to do both - there are several of them. It would help tremendously anytime you're away from a wi-fi signal, such as when you might spend a night at anchor.

Another way you might go is with a full-sized iPad. It is big enough for three boys to watch a movie, plus it does all that other stuff that is great on a boat, from acting as a pretty darned good chartplotter, to storing recipes, to keeping all of your boat's operational manuals in one place. And it is all in one piece, and the current draw is minimal.

That is a topic for a medium-buck thread, however.


----------



## vtsailguy

Ritchard said:


> you can hook it to an outboard


Does it get good mileage =P


----------



## Bene505

deniseO30 said:


> Did this right after the new refrigeration was installed. cheap solar powered remote digital thermometer.


Denise,

I am doing a very similar project, with a foam block at the bottom of the freezer to reduce it's size. Can you send/post more details about the digital thermostat?

Regards,
Brad


----------



## deniseO30

Hey Brad! it's a digital thermometer. not a thermostat. that is above it and that came with the Norcold equipment. Because they both have sensors in the box the control can be out of the box. I got the little 25DS Digital Thermometers
Most HVAC suppliers have them or something similar.


----------



## Bene505

Thanks Denise. The only digital thermostata I found were hugely expensive. I'd love to find a couple that are 12v and LCD to save power.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Capt.Alex

*Shower sump solution*

I don't know how common this issue is, but this is the problem and the solution:

Problem: My shower drains into a shallow pan that sits in a very shallow part of the bilge. There is no room to put the standard off the shelf sump system (plastic box with a bilge pump and float switch inside). The factory solution was to install a diaphragm pump remotely mounted with the hose connected to a fitting at the bottom of the pan. The pump is operated by a momentary switch in the head compartment. The issue arises when you are taking a shower, the shower pan quickly fills with water and you are standing in ankle deep water by the time you are done. The momentary switch to activate the pump is out of reach while standing in the shower. I considered just replacing the momentary switch with an on/off switch but I did not want to risk either forgetting to turn it off, or having to remember to turn it on before getting in the shower.

Solution:

I put a tee fitting in the shower hose line and installed a 12v pressure switch in the tee. I then wired it back to the momentary switch. Now, whenever you turn on the shower, the pump automatically turns on, shut off the water the pump turns off. Now the pump keeps up with the shower and no more standing water in the head. After a shower, any residual water that makes into the drain pan can be easily removed with a brief press of the momentary switch.

Very cheap and effective solution. A few bucks for plumbing fittings and $22.00 for the pressure switch.


I added the 1/2" Tee where the shower hose connects. A 1/2" nipple at the bottom to connect the shower hose, and a 1/8" bushing facing the wall to accept the threaded end of the pressure switch which is installed from behind the wall through a small hole.



The pressure switch an tee fitting. I decided to use brass instead for the aesthetics, but nylon or PVC will work just as well, and for less money.



This is the box for the pressure switch. $20-$25.00 online or available at most auto parts stores.


----------



## Ritchard

*Re: Shower sump solution*



Capt.Alex said:


> I don't know how common this issue is, but this is the problem and the solution:
> 
> Problem: My shower drains into a shallow pan that sits in a very shallow part of the bilge. There is no room to put the standard off the shelf sump system (plastic box with a bilge pump and float switch inside). The factory solution was to install a diaphragm pump remotely mounted with the hose connected to a fitting at the bottom of the pan. The pump is operated by a momentary switch in the head compartment. The issue arises when you are taking a shower, the shower pan quickly fills with water and you are standing in ankle deep water by the time you are done. The momentary switch to activate the pump is out of reach while standing in the shower. I considered just replacing the momentary switch with an on/off switch but I did not want to risk either forgetting to turn it off, or having to remember to turn it on before getting in the shower.
> 
> Solution:
> 
> I put a tee fitting in the shower hose line and installed a 12v pressure switch in the tee. I then wired it back to the momentary switch. Now, whenever you turn on the shower, the pump automatically turns on, shut off the water the pump turns off. Now the pump keeps up with the shower and no more standing water in the head. After a shower, any residual water that makes into the drain pan can be easily removed with a brief press of the momentary switch.
> 
> Very cheap and effective solution. A few bucks for plumbing fittings and $22.00 for the pressure switch.
> 
> 
> I added the 1/2" Tee where the shower hose connects. A 1/2" nipple at the bottom to connect the shower hose, and a 1/8" bushing facing the wall to accept the threaded end of the pressure switch which is installed from behind the wall through a small hole.
> 
> 
> 
> The pressure switch an tee fitting. I decided to use brass instead for the aesthetics, but nylon or PVC will work just as well, and for less money.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the box for the pressure switch. $20-$25.00 online or available at most auto parts stores.


Nice thinking.


----------



## peterchech

Well a new Main cover at WM was close to $375, and mine was beat to hell and attached by bungee cord at this point, so I opened up Don Casey's excellent book and got to work:










After spending under $50 on two yards of Sunbrella fabric, I had the thread already, $8 on a YKK zipper, $5 on binding tape and $20 on the twist button attachments (no need for a punch, heated up knife works fine- thanks again don casey) I have a new mainsail cover:










The main is shorter than the boom anyway so why pay for an extra yard of fabric?

$83 and it took about 10 hours total, using the old one as a template. Much, much easier than I thought it would be to tell the truth.

It was so easy, in fact, that for my next project I am going to follow Mr. Casey's directions and use the excess materials to make a mainsheet bag for the cockpit.


----------



## bljones

Nice work, pete!


----------



## deniseO30

put a piece of teak on the sliding companion way hatch. No finish applied yet but it really pulls the look together and is actually functional by making the lid stronger. the wood was found in scrap pile. 
Before;








After


----------



## Ritchard

How did you attach that piece Denise?

The price is right. I bought a pile of teak in the winter to make a bunch of new pieces and I'm lucky I didn't have to sleep in the garage.


----------



## deniseO30

Oh, Ritchard, it's screwed from the back with a bead of sillycone to keep the water from getting behind it. shoulda used sitka flex I guess but it's not really oozing out.


----------



## peterchech

bljones said:


> Nice work, pete!


Thanks BL, great thread you started here


----------



## deniseO30

here's a better pic


----------



## Bene505

Recently connected my bilge pump alarm to 12v relay, so when the bilge pump (float switch) turns on, the external sensor on my webcam triggers.

Now I get an email whenever the bilge pump turns on. I get an email like this one:










Some short wires and crimped connectors <$10
12v relay from Radio Shack <$10
Total cost: less than $20

(I already have the webcam sending me pictures when it detects motion on the boat. They go for about $50. And it takes about 1.5 amps to drive it and the long range WiFi setup.)

I have a separate, different relay to use when I care more about staying connected to shore power, like in a slip in winter time.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## SloopJonB

Bene505 said:


> Recently connected my bilge pump alarm to 12v relay, so when the bilge pump (float switch) turns on, the external sensor on my webcam triggers.
> 
> Now I get an email whenever the bilge pump turns on. I get an email like this one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some short wires and crimped connectors <$10
> 12v relay from Radio Shack <$10
> Total cost: less than $20
> 
> (I already have the webcam sending me pictures when it detects motion on the boat. They go for about $50. And it takes about 1.5 amps to drive it and the long range WiFi setup.)
> 
> I have a separate, different relay to use when I care more about staying connected to shore power, like in a slip in winter time.
> 
> Regards,
> Brad


I spent the majority of my worklife in IT and I suddenly feel OLD.


----------



## deniseO30

Another low bucks project; watch out ed$son!  
More scrap wood I've collected. the drink holder was $20 at Bacon sails. I had a plywood swing up but it got trashed by the sun and weather. this one will be kept covered. May make "wings" for it to fold out and make it a real outdoor dining table


----------



## jsaronson

Stern seats:
Interstaqte Plastics for the StarBoard, Helm brand rail clamps, left over stainless tubing, sockets from Marine Parts Depo. Total cost about $100.


----------



## jsaronson

try this.


----------



## jsaronson

Nice work Denise!


----------



## bljones

Nice work, denise and js!


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

peterchech said:


> Well a new Main cover at WM was close to $375, and mine was beat to hell and attached by bungee cord at this point, so I opened up Don Casey's excellent book and got to work:
> 
> After spending under $50 on two yards of Sunbrella fabric, I had the thread already, $8 on a YKK zipper, $5 on binding tape and $20 on the twist button attachments (no need for a punch, heated up knife works fine- thanks again don casey) I have a new mainsail cover:
> 
> It was so easy, in fact, that for my next project I am going to follow Mr. Casey's directions and use the excess materials to make a mainsheet bag for the cockpit.


Nice work. This is on my list of things to do.


----------



## MedSailor

Bene505 said:


> Recently connected my bilge pump alarm to 12v relay, so when the bilge pump (float switch) turns on, the external sensor on my webcam triggers.
> 
> Now I get an email whenever the bilge pump turns on. I get an email like this one:
> 
> Some short wires and crimped connectors <$10
> 12v relay from Radio Shack <$10
> Total cost: less than $20
> 
> (I already have the webcam sending me pictures when it detects motion on the boat. They go for about $50. And it takes about 1.5 amps to drive it and the long range WiFi setup.)
> 
> I have a separate, different relay to use when I care more about staying connected to shore power, like in a slip in winter time.
> 
> Regards,
> Brad


More details please! How does one get from a relay, to an email being sent?

Being a recovering wooden boat owner, who is now not living aboard, I have an unhealthy obsession with bilge pumps and would love to have my OCD placated by knowing when they go off. 

MedSailor


----------



## jimgo

jsaronson said:


> Stern seats:
> Interstaqte Plastics for the StarBoard, Helm brand rail clamps, left over stainless tubing, sockets from Marine Parts Depo. Total cost about $100.


I'd be very curious to see more details, please! I've been considering doing this, and would love to see how others have done it. I have some 1/2" thick, 12"x36" starboard, and have been toying with a few different ways to use that to make the seat. Of course, my stern only has a single rail, so that will make it more interesting, but it would still be good to see how you did it.


----------



## jsaronson

I started with a 2x4 foot piece is starboard. Make a template from cardboard. 2 Helm brand rail clamps on the side so I can swing the seat up. 1 inch stainless tube in sockets and 2 crutch tips.


----------



## Bene505

MedSailor said:


> More details please! How does one get from a relay, to an email being sent?
> 
> Being a recovering wooden boat owner, who is now not living aboard, I have an unhealthy obsession with bilge pumps and would love to have my OCD placated by knowing when they go off.
> 
> MedSailor


Medsailor,

I agree with your sentiments.

You need these to use my method:
1) WiFi access where your boat is.
2) Wifi (IP) webcam with external alarm input.
3) 12v to 5v converter (they are cheap) for webcam
4) 12v relay
5) wire going to bilge pump switch
6) wires and crimp connectors to connect everything
7) a circuit breaker switch that you leave on, or an in-line fuse
8) email address to receive alarms
9) electrical tape to eliminate webcam's pan and tilt
10) optional - long range wifi
and
11) you need to setup the webcam, including setting it up with your email address. This took me significant time to figure out. (It still takes me too long to re-do.) But there are resources to help. It needs to be done with a laptop.

Except the optional long range WiFi, all of the parts are under $100. I just saw some really cheap webcams on eBay that have the external alarm input. You get motion detection for free, by the way, with emails sent to you, showing the inside of your boat when something is detected.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## SloopJonB

It sounds like a great idea but I can't help thinking "What would the Herreshoffs say about this?"

Could you get it to burn kerosene somehow?


----------



## Reefpoints

Here is my low-buck boat lettering on my folding dinghy. I printed out the name I wanted on regular paper and carefully cut out the letters with an exacto knife. Then I taped the template on the boat and drew in the letters with a sharpie. Later I varnished over the sharpie-drawn letters to give them UV resistance.


----------



## MedSailor

Bene505 said:


> Medsailor,
> 
> 2) Wifi (IP) webcam with external alarm input.


IP and external imput on the camera. That's the missing link right there. Got it now! Thanks!

Now to make it truly modern the boat should have it's own Twitter hashtag and tweet when it's sinking. 

MedSailor


----------



## Ritchard

Come on you guys, it's spring. I need some more inspiring cheapskate projects.


----------



## flyingjib

Reefpoints said:


> Here is my low-buck boat lettering on my folding dinghy. I printed out the name I wanted on regular paper and carefully cut out the letters with an exacto knife. Then I taped the template on the boat and drew in the letters with a sharpie. Later I varnished over the sharpie-drawn letters to give them UV resistance.


Awesome job! Interesting folding dinghy BTW. Q: What brand is it?


----------



## edguy3

Bene505 said:


> Medsailor,
> 2) Wifi (IP) webcam with external alarm input.


This is the standalone web cam I've been using at home:
Infrared Motion Night Vision Network Color Camera w/Pan & APM-J011

It has built in wifi and wired intenet. Although I have been using 
the motion detection, it also has various IO pins.

/ed


----------



## FinallySailing

Ritchard said:


> Come on you guys, it's spring. I need some more inspiring cheapskate projects.


Very cheapskate here, indeed  ... changed the lock on the door to the heads.
There used to be a sliding bolt, this was quite difficult to line up. Installed a sash window lock for under £4 :

Brighton Sash Fastener Polished Chrome 58 x 22mm | Screwfix.com

Countersunk two screws to hide the old screw holes.


----------



## MedSailor

edguy3 said:


> This is the standalone web cam I've been using at home:
> Infrared Motion Night Vision Network Color Camera w/Pan & APM-J011
> 
> It has built in wifi and wired intenet. Although I have been using
> the motion detection, it also has various IO pins.
> 
> /ed


Wireless night vision camera with it's own Wi-fi on a turret for $35??!! Wow, the electronics world never ceases to amaze me.

5 years ago, for $35 you could chose one of the above items for that price.

Anyone know of small stand alone LCD screens that could combine with one of these puppies (without the need for a computer) for an engine room camera?

Medsailor


----------



## Ritchard

FinallySailing said:


> Very cheapskate here, indeed  ... changed the lock on the door to the heads.
> There used to be a sliding bolt, this was quite difficult to line up. Installed a sash window lock for under £4 :
> 
> Brighton Sash Fastener Polished Chrome 58 x 22mm | Screwfix.com
> 
> Countersunk two screws to hide the old screw holes.


That's an okay cheapskate repair job, but a freaking good picture!


----------



## Reefpoints

flyingjib said:


> Awesome job! Interesting folding dinghy BTW. Q: What brand is it?


It is the origami from woodenwidget. You can see better photos of the dinghy at the woodenwidget site, or on the album under my profile.


----------



## katsailor

The dog knocked my new Iphone 5 in his water bowl this weekend, don't ask, 
I used a zip lock filled with rice as a cell phone desiccator. I think it cost almost nothing since I already had the dog, wet phone, rice and zip lock.


----------



## macwester26

*Slippery when wet*

Slippery when wet.

I have a real money saver.
The tiller and handrails that are used the most are somtimes slippery when wet
and quite hard to get a firm grip or hand hold.
I now use self amagamating tape wrapped a few times around a hand hold gives a very good grip and can be removed as and when required and replaced...


----------



## Nicklaus

Nothing too fancy, but my wife wanted a way to lock the boat when we are staying on board at the dock.

Picked up a sliding bolt latch for about $4 at the hardware store. Not super secure, but an unobtrusive addition that matches the rest of the hardware.

It will help her sleep easier at night and at the very least, wake us (or the dog) up if anyone tries to pry it open. Also has the added benefit of being easy to undo should be need to get out.

I also oiled the teak slats this weekend - but did that after taking the picture.


----------



## Bene505

katsailor said:


> The dog knocked my new Iphone 5 in his water bowl this weekend, don't ask,
> I used a zip lock filled with rice as a cell phone desiccator. I think it cost almost nothing since I already had the dog, wet phone, rice and zip lock.


What I do:

Take the battery out. Put a vacuum hose on any obvious openings, let sit running for a couple hours. Vacuum with make water vaporate fast without using damaging heat.

I usually make sure I'm not near the vacuum for those hours, since the whole setup is noisy.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## katsailor

Brad,
Sounds like you have experience with this kind of stuff. My Iphone 5 was not designed to make it easy to remove the battery. It seems to be alive again but I utilized my warranty/insurance and a new one arrived last night.


----------



## bljones

katsailor said:


> The dog knocked my new Iphone 5 in his water bowl this weekend, don't ask,
> I used a zip lock filled with rice as a cell phone desiccator. I think it cost almost nothing since I already had the dog, wet phone, rice and zip lock.


Why was your dog using your phone?

Wait.... you're this guy??!!??










http://textfromdog.tumblr.com/


----------



## jimgo

Our 15' Albacore is new to us, and hasn't been in the water in a few years. The previous owner said that the port-side seat (which doubles as a flotation compartment) sometimes takes on water. He tried tracking it down, but couldn't find the source. I haven't gone hunting yet (not sure how I'd do that, either), but when I had to throw the boat off the trailer, I did notice that the port side seat had a good bit of water in it. I used a hand pump to get most of it out, but I'm still a bit worried about how that will impact the overall bouyancy of the boat in the event it gets swamped.

While contemplating how to find and patch the leak, my mind started to wander, and I remembered the pool noodles I found at the dollar store. I went back there today, and purchased $25 worth of noodles to stuff into the lockers. I figure it's better than nothing, and might just help keep the boat from sinking the first time I launch her.


----------



## dvuyxx

jimgo said:


> While contemplating how to find and patch the leak, my mind started to wander, and I remembered the pool noodles I found at the dollar store. I went back there today, and purchased $25 worth of noodles to stuff into the lockers. I figure it's better than nothing, and might just help keep the boat from sinking the first time I launch her.


I know someone that used bundled pool noodles when rebuilding a kayak. Some noodles are closed cell and others are open cell. Both are buoyant, but the closed cell is preferable because it holds onto less moisture.


----------



## dvuyxx

I have one of those thick black rubber rubrails below my toerail that has a white tube of plastic sandwiched in the middle (the tube hides the screws). The other day I took a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and scrubbed the white part. It was really looking dingy ... now it looks like new. Total cost $3.00. 

Note, I am always skeptical if those erasers have detergents in them ... I would hose of your hull and brightwork before that stuff stays on any surface too long.


----------



## katsailor

bljones said:


> Why was your dog using your phone?
> 
> Wait.... you're this guy??!!??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://textfromdog.tumblr.com/


not me
no balls were involved in the soaking of the phone


----------



## jimgo

David, I believe the erasers are microfiber that "disintegrates" as it is used, kind of like a solid block of rubbing compound. I love them, they are one of my favorite inventions. They do leave behind a residue, though, so I agree with the rinsing idea.


----------



## dvuyxx

I've also learned, on a new surface, to test the Magic Eraser in an inconspicuous spot. It can effect some finishes (making them more matte). I wouldn't use them on the hull or glossy painted surfaces.


----------



## miatapaul

jimgo said:


> David, I believe the erasers are microfiber that "disintegrates" as it is used, kind of like a solid block of rubbing compound. I love them, they are one of my favorite inventions. They do leave behind a residue, though, so I agree with the rinsing idea.





dvuyxx said:


> I've also learned, on a new surface, to test the Magic Eraser in an inconspicuous spot. It can effect some finishes (making them more matte). I wouldn't use them on the hull or glossy painted surfaces.


Yes the magic erasers are quite abrasive. I think I have read that they are about equivalent to 1500 grit sand paper. It has been awhile, but I used to frequent a lot of car detailing forums.


----------



## Group9

bigdogandy said:


> Replaced the old and nasty white plastic box that housed the electronics at the helm station with a box I made from some scrap teak I got from a neighbor at the dock, a piece of plexiglass from Home Depot, and a couple of plastic cupholders from West Marine. Total cost was about $20 bucks, not including the ratcheting crimper I bought to make up the electrical connections in the box.


Man, that looks great! You have given me my next project!


----------



## i_amcdn

Ok this was not technically difficult but on a Rate of Return scale of Low $ spent / Highly improved esthetics I am happy.

The Honda had been in an apartment locker for 3 years. When I got it I immediately dropped it off at my local Honda dealer for a tune up. (Markham Honda Power Sports....nice folks) That ended up costing me not just for a tune up but a new impeller and impeller case. I know that I should be able to DIY but I just do not have the time this year with work work and boat work. I will learn though quickly.

For this paint job I elected to mask the HONDA decals even though they are scratched up a bit. The decals are not cheap to replace: the "four stroke" is $19 X2...I just cannot justify that coin. I paid $12 for the pebbly finish spray paint. Masking tape I already owned.

IMO the end result looks pretty good for the 98% of the world that will be looking at my engine as I sail by them. For the 2% who will be in the cockpit with me....just keep your eyes forward scanning for the enemy and pay no heed to the engine cover.


----------



## bljones

Not really a project, but definitely low-buck. The launch of the long-term test of the low-buck VHF:

Dock Six Chronicles: Gear and Tool Review: Short Money Hand-held VHF Radio


----------



## Group9

bljones said:


> Not really a project, but definitely low-buck. The launch of the long-term test of the low-buck VHF:
> 
> Dock Six Chronicles: Gear and Tool Review: Short Money Hand-held VHF Radio


I've got a Cobra VHF I paid $60 for. If nothing else, its good to use to send the wife up to the front of the boat to listen and see if the main VHF is working.


----------



## MastUndSchotbruch

Group9 said:


> I've got a Cobra VHF I paid $60 for. If nothing else, its good to use to send the wife up to the front of the boat to listen and see if the main VHF is working.


Don't know what part of the world you are posting from but the automated radio check on Channel 27, sponsored by Sea Tow, is FAR superior to your method. See www.seatow.com/boating-safety/automated-radio-checks

Where I am (Upper Chessie), they have at least two stations (Annapolis and Great Oaks Landing) that my 20 year old basic VHF reaches.

OK, OK, I admit it is a stretch to call this a 'project' but it is definitely 'low bucks' (free!). I hope pointing out this service out helps someone. If nothing else, it might reduce the stupid radio checks on Ch16 followed by the inevitable admonishments by USCG.

[Note added in proof: Sorry, I have no idea why sailnet mangles the URL. It looks fine when I submit it and I tried to fix it but SN does its mangling. Just google it...]


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

MastUndSchotbruch said:


> Don't know what part of the world you are posting from but the *automated radio check on Channel 27*, sponsored by Sea Tow, is FAR superior to your method. See www.seatow.com/boating-safety/automated-radio-checks
> 
> Where I am (Upper Chessie), they have at least two stations (Annapolis and Great Oaks Landing) that my 20 year old basic VHF reaches.
> 
> OK, OK, I admit it is a stretch to call this a 'project' but it is definitely 'low bucks' (free!). *I hope pointing out this service out helps someone.* If nothing else, it might reduce the stupid radio checks on Ch16 followed by the inevitable admonishments by USCG.
> 
> [Note added in proof: Sorry, I have no idea why sailnet mangles the URL. It looks fine when I submit it and I tried to fix it but SN does its mangling. Just google it...]


I didn't know about this. Thanks.
I'll remember this when I move East.


----------



## fryewe

Fuel tank level system:

I am old school when it comes to tank level indication having lived with failed electrical/electronic indication that required draining tank after tank to repair frequent failures and then refilling and recalibrating the instruments. I know the new electronic instruments are much more reliable but my engine burns less than a quart an hour and there is no need to know fuel level on an instantaneous basis. The tank is under the engine and if I did have an electronic instrument it would likely be a PITA to access and repair or replace.

So when I replaced the fuel tank on Talofa Lee I planned for manual tank measurement. The tank is under the engine and the dipstick method of checking requires that the stick be flexible. I have always used a 1/4 inch dowel. However last time I used the dowel it cracked. By good fortune the bottom piece didn't fall into the tank.

This week my wife waved a broken chain-type dog leash at me and asked if I could use it (I am always stashing this and that item that is broken that I may "need" at some point in the future so she frequently checks with me before throwing things out.) She didn't know it but she was waving my low cost foolproof fuel tank level indicating system at me.

That chain is the perfect tool for measuring the tank level. It is flexible. It is heavy so it hangs directly down into the tank. All I needed was something to keep the upper end from falling into the tank and to calibrate it.

The tank was still empty so I filled it with five gallon jerry cans and calibrated the chain at five gallon increments (25 gallons total). I marked the chain at each five gallons and marked the point where the chain meets the top of the fill tube when the first link hits the bottom. I put a plastic cable clamp through the top link to prevent dropping the chain into the tank. I marked the chain increments with tightly wrapped red rescue tape that I had in my tool box.

Here it is:









I used about eight inches of rescue tape which is about a dollar a foot. The clamp was one of a pack of several different sizes I bought at a big box store a few years ago...perhaps another buck.

I am sure I will be happy with the TLI's accuracy and reliability.


----------



## ccriders

Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> I didn't know about this. Thanks.
> I'll remember this when I move East.


People move East?
Really?


----------



## miatapaul

MastUndSchotbruch said:


> Don't know what part of the world you are posting from but the automated radio check on Channel 27, sponsored by Sea Tow, is FAR superior to your method. See www.seatow.com/boating-safety/automated-radio-checks
> 
> Where I am (Upper Chessie), they have at least two stations (Annapolis and Great Oaks Landing) that my 20 year old basic VHF reaches.
> 
> OK, OK, I admit it is a stretch to call this a 'project' but it is definitely 'low bucks' (free!). I hope pointing out this service out helps someone. If nothing else, it might reduce the stupid radio checks on Ch16 followed by the inevitable admonishments by USCG.
> 
> [Note added in proof: Sorry, I have no idea why sailnet mangles the URL. It looks fine when I submit it and I tried to fix it but SN does its mangling. Just google it...]


I was thinking "hey honey go out in the dingy. Keep rowing I want to test the range. Yes, I know your tired, but I have almost finished my beer, I mean Your not quite far enough.... Let me sail the other way for a while and get a real good test of the range."

Of course this could be part of the reason I am getting divorced! :laugher:laugher:laugher


----------



## jimgo

Paul, I thought you were going to say that you sent her out to the bow, then asked her to face forward to see if the radio worked. Now turn back and face me; yup, still works. One more step backward? (splash)


----------



## slax

jimgo said:


> Paul, I thought you were going to say that you sent her out to the bow, then asked her to face forward to see if the radio worked. Now turn back and face me; yup, still works. One more step backward? (splash)


that was the first wife...


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

ccriders said:


> People move East?
> Really?


When I am finally free of the military and get out of Tennessee, I'm looking at moving to VA and maybe have my boat in MD. I'm looking at Marinas between Annapolis and Solomons. Still have a few years before that happens.


----------



## ccriders

Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> When I am finally free of the military and get out of Tennessee, I'm looking at moving to VA and maybe have my boat in MD. I'm looking at Marinas between Annapolis and Solomons. Still have a few years before that happens.


Can't argue with that. Sailing the Chessapeake is fabulous, just about everything you could want in a home cruising ground. 
John


----------



## deniseO30

*Gmimbled force 10 PITA*

After way way too many hours of wondering what to do to enclose around my F10 range and after 3 attempts this is the end result.

Long box behind the stove with one long side angled so the stove can swing past it. The lid for the box will be cutting board. On the sides it's plywood with white Formica glued on and then screwed with finish washers to make them easy to remove for stove servicing. 
swing up;








swing down;








sitting level with lid off box. (still needs hold downs of some sort) 









There is a cutting board for the stove top but I'll make a really nice one someday. 
cost less then $25 since it was scrap plywood, Formica


----------



## downeast450

Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> When I am finally free of the military and get out of Tennessee, I'm looking at moving to VA and maybe have my boat in MD. I'm looking at Marinas between Annapolis and Solomons. Still have a few years before that happens.


That is only half way East!

Down


----------



## rhr1956

Making new circuit breaker panel box. Adding a couple 12v accessory plugs, a LED power indicator light and a analog battery voltage meter. Got some 1/2" oak at Lowes for about $20, indicator light at Frys for $3, voltage meter for $9. I already had some stain and varnish. A couple small brass hinges and an inside cabinet latch for another $6. Another $20 worth of Becks. So let's see...about $58 total. That should qualify for low bucks. I'll post a pretty picture after it's on the wall. Sorry for the junky picture.


----------



## downeast450

rhr,

Please show a couple of pics of the finished product. Looks good!

Down


----------



## AllThumbs

I bought this LED flashlight at the dollar store for $3.00










Here is the circuit board inside:









I cut it into two sets of 9 and a set of 6:










It took 5 minutes to modify the circuit to optimize it for 12 V:










Test it out. Perfect:










The original fixture is forty years old, and the guts were all corroded. The reason for the project. I glued the circuit board into the old fixture with some silicone:










Beauty. Excuse the rain:










It draws 45 mA. The original 6W bulb draws 500 mA. It's now brighter, although the LEDs are somewhat uni directional. The original lens diffuses the light enough that it is easily seen from any forward angle. I did both sides. I might use the 6 LED section for the stern light.


----------



## jimgo

Did you put the resistor and jumper in there? What value resistor did you use?


----------



## AllThumbs

Yes. I used 68 ohms. I also had to file away the traces on the circuit board in 4 places. This value resistor was calculated based on the voltage drop of the LED's and the current of the LED's. I would be happy to explain how that value is calculated if there is interest.


----------



## OPossumTX

MedSailor said:


> Wireless night vision camera with it's own Wi-fi on a turret for $35??!! Wow, the electronics world never ceases to amaze me.
> 
> 5 years ago, for $35 you could chose one of the above items for that price.
> 
> Anyone know of small stand alone LCD screens that could combine with one of these puppies (without the need for a computer) for an engine room camera?
> 
> Medsailor


If an engine room camera and remote monitor is what you want, I would think one of the "backup cameras" you can find on line for much less than $100 would do the trick. It is all 12 VDC with no need for any converters.

Check this one out: Amazon.com: 7 inch TFT LCD Digital Car Rear View Monitor with Waterproof Car Rear View Camera combo: [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@41rzYcGxmXL

The trick would be finding one with a weather resistant monitor. All of them have weather resistant cameras but the monitor is intended to be mounted inside the car/truck.


----------



## bristol299bob

AllThumbs said:


> Yes. I used 68 ohms. I also had to file away the traces on the circuit board in 4 places. This value resistor was calculated based on the voltage drop of the LED's and the current of the LED's. I would be happy to explain how that value is calculated if there is interest.


thumbs, do tell.

btw looks great!


----------



## bljones

As usual, nice work AT. you back on the Dock this season?


----------



## AllThumbs

After School was launched yesterday. Slip 6-51 buddy. Pretty lonely on the dock so far.


----------



## SHNOOL

Dock bumpers... Cost $27 total for 3.








90 degree brackets... 2x4, noodle float (replaceable) and outdoor carpet...

















Ok, there are no cleats on TOP of our docks, only rings on the vertical of the fingers. My boat fits tightly in the slip (there is 9 feet between fingers boat is 9'2" wide at the deck). With large fenders, they rubbed harshly against the dock, I needed something wider, and thinner that was removable. My wife came up with this idea, and I think it was pretty genius.

$24 for a 5'x26" piece of outdoor carpet backed with rubber.
$2 for 2 noodles.
I had the 2x4s.

There are (2) 5' ones for port/starboard, and I created one that is 4' wide for the bow.


----------



## TakeFive

It is generally not advisable to put white LEDs into nav light fixtures that were designed for incandescent lights. LEDs emit light over a very narrow range of wavelengths, and when put through traditional incandescent color filters the color fails to meet USCG requirements because. For instance, the green nav light on the starboard side of your boat tends to be blue colored.

I'd suggest checking this out carefully before you all get too excited about this mod.


----------



## AllThumbs

bristol299bob said:


> thumbs, do tell.
> 
> btw looks great!


To understand what resistor needs to be added, you need to understand how an LED works.

For a conventional lamp, the current in the circuit will be determined by the resistance of the lamp, and the voltage you apply to it. It's ohms law. I=E/R

Also, a conventional lamp will drop all the source Voltage. If you connect the lamp to 12 V, the lamp will drop 12 V. Even if you connect a 6 V lamp to a 12 V source, the 6 V lamp will drop all 12 volts. It won't last long, because you are exceeding it's design limitations, but it will drop the 12 V.

An LED is a totally different animal. While it does drop a voltage, that voltage is fixed, regardless of what voltage you connect to it. Not only that, but an LED has no real resistance when on, behaving much like a closed switch or piece of wire.

It is for that reason that whenever you connect an LED, you must add a resistor in series. Without a resistor the LED will act like a short circuit, and the current will be high. The LED will burn out, the fuse will blow, or both. The resistor limits (and determines) the current through the LED.

To determine the resistor size, you must know some things about the LED's you will use, and how those LED's are connected. LED's vary a little, but most LEDs drop between 2 and 3 volts, and need a current of 15 to 20 mA to be nice and bright but not burn out.

For my flashlight, I actually connected the batteries and measured the LED voltage drop and current using a digital multimeter. Measuring the voltage drop was as easy as putting the meter across an LED while on. Mine measured 3V.


----------



## AllThumbs

Here is my flashlights circuit (except there were 24 LED's, all in parallel:










The LED's each dropped 3 V, and since they were all in parallel, the whole bank dropped 3V. The 3 AAA batteries added up to 4.5V. Since the LEDs, drop 3V, the rest of the voltage (1.5V) drops across the series resistor. Without the resistor, the 1.5 volts would try to drop across the circuit wires. (like shorting out a 1.5V source).

I determined my LED current by measuring the total current and dividing by 24 (the number of LED's). My circuit was drawing 360 mA, which meant each LED was drawing 15 mA.


----------



## AllThumbs

Here is the modified circuit of 9 LED's:










Since I was connecting my LED's to 12 volts, I needed to take advantage of that. I decided to connect them 3 in parallel, in series with 2 other sets of 3 in parallel.

Each bank of 3 in parallel will drop 3 V, so the 3 sets in series will drop 9V. I need a resistor to drop the last 3.

I want each LED to pass 15 mA of current, so the total circuit current needs to be 45 mA. This means the resistor needs to be sized to "set" the circuit current to 45 mA. Since ohms law applies to the resistor, R = E/I. The resistor voltage is 3V, the resistor current needs to be 45 mA, therefore:

R = 3/.045 = 66.7 ohms. I chose 68 ohms, as that is what I had.

Clear as mud?

Oh, and unlike conventional bulbs, the polarity of an LED matters. If it doesn't work, try reversing the polarity.


----------



## AllThumbs

BTW, if you don't want to use this low buck idea on your coloured navigation lights then don't. 

For me, the red one looks red, and the green one looks green. It's a trailer sailer, and this is the first time its had any navigation lights at all since I have owned it. Your mileage may vary, use common sense.

Either way, this project might fit other lighting applications around your boat.


----------



## Barquito

> Your mileage may vary, use common sense.


Agree with both. Also, be careful that the light doesn't actually shine through a wider, or narrower arc than it should. But, as you said, for a trailer sailer, that won't be in the dark much, probably fine. Great trick for getting lots of lights at a low cost. My house battery has been screaming at me for a few years to try such a mod.


----------



## troy2000

If you had made the limit $200.00 instead of $100.00, I could've shown you a boat my son and I built a couple of years ago. But I guess we missed the cut...


----------



## TakeFive

AllThumbs said:


> BTW, if you don't want to use this low buck idea on your coloured navigation lights then don't...


I won't use it. I was just warning others to be careful about what they do, because it will cause problems with many types of LEDs, especially the cheap ones.


AllThumbs said:


> ...Your mileage may vary, use common sense...


Common sense may not be sufficient in this case. "Common sense" says you put white light through a green filter and it looks green. But a closer look at the spectral distribution of inexpensive LEDs reveals that they're not "white" in the way that incandescent lights are. LED's emit a few narrow bands of wavelength that blend together to approximate white, but when put through a green filter can actually look like a different color than green. This has been shown by many to be a problem, and I was pointing that out.


AllThumbs said:


> ...Either way, this project might fit other lighting applications around your boat.


I agree that this could be very nice for applications where color fidelity is not important. Red/green nav lights, not so much.


----------



## jimgo

I have a bunch of original lights in the cabin. I think many of them have wiring issues (corroded switches, etc.). I'd still like to keep the housings (I like the aesthetic) and replacing the innards and switches with LED lights. A trick like that shown above would be a great way to get LED's in there easily.


----------



## bljones

troy2000 said:


> If you had made the limit $200.00 instead of $100.00, I could've shown you a boat my son and I built a couple of years ago. But I guess we missed the cut...


Gotcha covered:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/99094-low-buck-dinghies-lets-see-em.html#post1024557

let's see it- bonus points for the boat being a father-son project.


----------



## troy2000

bljones said:


> Gotcha covered:
> 
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/99094-low-buck-dinghies-lets-see-em.html#post1024557
> 
> let's see it- bonus points for the boat being a father-son project.


Well, it doesn't really fit in that thread, either. It isn't a dink. But what the heck; I'll post a few pictures there anyway....

I also have a complete build thread for it on boatdesign.net:

Building a flat bottomed canoe - Boat Design Forums


----------



## SHNOOL

As usual TakeFive is correct.. the blue-light won't work in some nav lights.

HOWEVER, you might be able to get the right "color" out of your LED nav lights if you get the right "white" out of your LEDs.

Look for a fuller spectrum white (warm white) LED and you might still be A-OK.

I know when I bought my PERKO replacement bulbs, they were certified for this use, still a bargain, and fit into this "low buck project" thread.

NO I am not working for this company.. and I am sure you can buy them elsewhere.
Perko Atwood Hella 31mm Festoon LED Replacement Bulbs


----------



## miatapaul

SHNOOL said:


> As usual TakeFive is correct.. the blue-light won't work in some nav lights.
> 
> HOWEVER, you might be able to get the right "color" out of your LED nav lights if you get the right "white" out of your LEDs.
> 
> Look for a fuller spectrum white (warm white) LED and you might still be A-OK.
> 
> I know when I bought my PERKO replacement bulbs, they were certified for this use, still a bargain, and fit into this "low buck project" thread.
> 
> NO I am not working for this company.. and I am sure you can buy them elsewhere.
> Perko Atwood Hella 31mm Festoon LED Replacement Bulbs


While I have recommended marine beam as well, and plan on using them for any interior lights I think they are playing games with the "approved" line. They do not really claim to be certified, only that they are brighter than stock bulbs.



> These lamps are MUCH brighter than the original incandescent festoons, and easily meet the 2nm visibility requirements.


They don't really claim them to be certified only that they can be seen more than 2 miles away. There is more to the spec than 2 nautical miles visibility. They have to be a very specific color and they make no claim of even meeting the requirements. For me I think it is best to just replace the fixture with one that is designed for use with LEDs. I have to agree that if you are on a trailer sailor on a small inland lake, and you are going to only be overnight sailing occasionally then it likely does not matter. But if you are going to be out often or in areas that might have more heavy traffic then I would get the official fixtures with LEDs in them. My only concern is that if you are involved in an accident at night, and your lights do not meet spec you could be held liable for this incident. The easiest way to prove that it meets spec is to show the label of the package that says "approved by Coast Guard" that shows that you at least believed they met them and that you had not "modified" them.

Also if you have fixtures that are not approved for use with LEDs they may have corroded connections anyway so it is not a bad idea to replace them anyway. LEDs seem to be more sensitive to corrosion and the resultant fluctuation in current.


----------



## MMR

On our new-to-us Irwin, the connecting canvas between the dodger and bimini blocked our view of the main and forward from the helm, so we bought a small sheet of window material from Sailrite and this weekend I sewed us a window!

Total cost: less than $60

I'm pleased with how this turned out - we are also contemplating a smaller "moon roof" in our bimini, again for sail visibility reasons.

Before:









With new "window":


----------



## Ritchard

jimgo said:


> I have a bunch of original lights in the cabin. I think many of them have wiring issues (corroded switches, etc.). I'd still like to keep the housings (I like the aesthetic) and replacing the innards and switches with LED lights. A trick like that shown above would be a great way to get LED's in there easily.


You could try superbrightleds.com. They have replacement led inserts for every lamp you could imagine. I've ordered from them a number of times over the last few years. I got an LED lamp for my anchor light that totally kicked the butt of the incandescent original lumens-wise, and it was about $8.


----------



## SloopJonB

Sort of on this topic, I've got some beautiful, extremely high quality gimbaled brass oil lamps. One was a wedding present from my wife and we got its exact mate with a subsequent boat purchase.

I'd like to convert them to LED so they would be more than decorations.

Anybody have any links or info on doing that? I'm particularly interested in what to do to replace the mantle with some sort of fitting to electrify them.


----------



## jimgo

That shouldn't be difficult at all. Do you have any pictures? Do you want them to be battery operated (stand-alone), 12v, or 110?


----------



## SloopJonB

jimgo said:


> That shouldn't be difficult at all. Do you have any pictures? Do you want them to be battery operated (stand-alone), 12v, or 110?


I don't have any pics right now. I'll have to unwrap one and take a pic or three. They have a pretty standard mantle that screws into the top of a ballasted tank/base.

I want them to be hard wired 12V to be used as the cabin lights.

The mantle has to stay because it retains the glass chimney. I haven't given it much thought yet but I think some sort of receptacle will have to be soldered to the mantle where the wick comes through.

Right now I'm simply looking for possible options - hoping someone here has done something similar.


----------



## SloopJonB

Here are the pics. I started with the fully assembled lamp and then took pieces off one by one so you can see how the glass chimney and globe are retained.


----------



## katsailor

Those are beautiful; Oil lamps are a nice alternative to batteries, especially when yours are flat. just my .02


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## jimgo

SloopJonB said:


> Here are the pics. I started with the fully assembled lamp and then took pieces off one by one so you can see how the glass chimney and globe are retained.


I'm sorry, those can't be converted. You can just send them to me and I'll dispose of them for you.

No?

Darn, that never seems to work.

It looks to me like those are the right diameter to use the Christmas-style lights (the fake candles that you put in your window). You could scavange the innards from one of those lights and install it in the lamp, bringing the cord down into the base. You'll have to put a hole in the lamp somewhere to allow the cord to exit, which will ruin the base so you won't be able to put in any oil, but that seems consistent with your plans anyway.

What I'd consider, though, is running those off of batteries. If the top comes off, you should be able to use the oil bowl/base as a holder for the batteries, and simply run the wire up the wick tube to the scavenged lamp base.


----------



## SloopJonB

They are very nice ones. The first one cost my wife a couple of days pay when we got married. I always kept my eyes open for a mate for it but never found one until we bought a boat 23 years later. It had a deck box full of a variety of them and one was an exact match - intact glass and all. What are the chances?

I had thought of removing the wick adjuster and running the wire out the hole but your idea of batteries is very interesting - that would leave them intact to convert back to oil if I wanted. A couple of AA's would fit no problem and last a very long time from what I understand about LED's. 

Thanks for the idea - I'll have to check out what's available - I'm not familiar with the lights you mentioned. Might even be able to scavenge the parts from a $2 LED flashlight - I have several on hand.

This place is amazing!


----------



## jimgo

Here's what I meant:
9.5" Battery Operated Christmas Candle Lamp

I thought you could add an LED bulb in place of the incandescent, if you were so inclined, but the bulb would still give you the "flame-like" look. However, the LED flashlight idea could work, too.


----------



## Minnesail

SloopJonB said:


> A couple of AA's would fit no problem and last a very long time from what I understand about LED's.


I have a couple LED "candles" that have a nice yellow color and flicker a little bit. They're on timers and run 6 hours a day, every day, and two AAs last several months, although they do get dimmer towards the end. I got them at Home Depot last Christmas, but I can't remember the brand name. Anyway, they'd look pretty nice wired into those beautiful lamps.


----------



## SloopJonB

Those are even better ideas. I wasn't too concerned about the shape of the bulb because the globe is 1/2 frosted but they would look better - if they fit inside the inner chimney.

Thanks.


----------



## rhr1956

I needed a knob for the Perko main disconnect battery switch. I bought a 3/4" grey PVC end cap that is used for closing the end of a pipe. I filled it with epoxy thickened with saw dust. Drilled a 1/4" hole about a half inch deep in the epoxy. Cut an indicator notch into the top of the cap and inked the notch with a black Sharpie marker. Gorilla glued it to the stem. Total cost $0.23


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## Barquito

Sloop -

My oil lamp is the best thing about my boat. Yea whale blubber!


----------



## ltgoshen

Well, After a year of use, the new cabin sole in my C&C30MK1 are holding up great.We did he work our self and it was under $100 dollars. It was a lot of work taking out the old rotten Teak / holly laminate. It a shame I could not have found the boat a few months earlier. I may could have saved it. One thing to note, I got the stick to each other kind that don't stick to the floor kind. For easy removal. Its been good and Its not to slick. I did find out real quick with the alcohol stove that a splash will destroy the finish.

I cut a build cover out of wood and finished it but the rest is Lowe's 3M flooring 34.00 per box, razor knife. Boom new floor. Cheesey? maybe... But its done and will last for years.


----------



## jimgo

LTGoshen, I'll be curious to see how it holds up. I would like to put down a nicer floor in my boat.


----------



## Faster

Very few builders are using the traditional veneered 'teak and holly' soles anymore, and many are going to similar products, certainly with a similar look - maybe or maybe not of a more marine-specific construction.

A friend put a HD solid Bamboo planked flooring sole in his Ericson.. looks great, actually, and is standing up quite well after 3-4 years of service. Heavy (scraps didn't float!!), although the weight's not in a bad place...


----------



## SloopJonB

Another attraction to using modern flooring is that you can buy it for next to nothing at liquidation type outfits. They often have single boxes or very small batches of the stuff that are useless to almost everyone because they are orphans in terms of colour & style and there isn't enough to do anything with inside a house.

I've seen single boxes of teak finish laminate with that indestructible titanium dioxide coating for next to nothing - under $20.


----------



## ltgoshen

jimgo said:


> LTGoshen, I'll be curious to see how it holds up. I would like to put down a nicer floor in my boat.


I can replace it fo 40 bucks and 3 hours labor? I dont care if it holds up too long. An you are right I would like to put the great looking teak holly stuff but the money?? and where to find it? and cuting a pattern? Way too much to think abought. Time for a dark and stormy. HAHA I will let you know next year how it holds up thru the summer. I do know the you dont want to get solvents on it.


----------



## SHNOOL

Laminate flooring replacement is priceless.. and looks great... smart move!


----------



## jimgo

Sorry... I meant nicer than what I have (white MDF), not nicer than yours! I like yours a lot!


----------



## i_amcdn

Edel 665 came with cheesy grass like wall paper that had fallen off / turn moldy, was dusty.

I pulled it all off (except for 1/4 berth where there is a leak I need to fix). Wire brushed the foam residue off so that I was down to the original red fiberglass.

My original plan was to use cork rolls but I am glad that they were more expensive than the 2x3 foot panels. Although you can see the joints there is no way that the rolls would have been practical to work with and glue.

I used Lepages construction adhesive. It was a pain because no matter how big I made the hole in the tube it was a battle for my caulking gun to squeeze it out. I considered spray but xnayed that when I read that you had the added step of letting it set up and get tacky.

Cork was <$60. 2 x tubes of glue was < $25.

I will finish off the top edges with caulking. The bottoms will get covered by mattresses.


----------



## Ritchard

i_amcdn said:


> I used Lepages construction adhesive. It was a pain because no matter how big I made the hole in the tube it was a battle for my caulking gun to squeeze it out.


It's important to thoroughly break the seal at the neck of the cartridge. Either that or eat your spinach.


----------



## MedSailor

i_amcdn said:


> My original plan was to use cork rolls but I am glad that they were more expensive than the 2x3 foot panels...


Cork! What a great idea! Insulating, naturally sound insulating, and mold resistant. Nice choice...

MedSailor


----------



## Tim R.

This past weekend I made up some lifeline back rests. Less than a hundred bucks for some PVC pipe, pipe insulation, Sunbrella and about an hour of sewing.


----------



## miatapaul

Tim R. said:


> This past weekend I made up some lifeline back rests. Less than a hundred bucks for some PVC pipe, pipe insulation, Sunbrella and about an hour of sewing.


sounds cool, do you have an pictures yet?


----------



## Tim R.

miatapaul said:


> sounds cool, do you have an pictures yet?


I can post some but they are no different than what you can buy. I will try and get a photo of one at lunch today.


----------



## jimgo

Tim,
Another idea is to use pool noodles. Our dollar store had them. They are a bit thicker, and more comfortable than the pipe insulation (I did the pipe insulation on my old boat).


----------



## Tim R.

jimgo said:


> Tim,
> Another idea is to use pool noodles. Our dollar store had them. They are a bit thicker, and more comfortable than the pipe insulation (I did the pipe insulation on my old boat).


Definitely a great low buck solution Jim but that would not pass the sniff test by the admiral. Had to be matching Sunbrella and that is where the expense lies. I also wanted to balance the visual obstruction and comfort factors.


----------



## deltaten

Covering the hull liner in the Vee was simple as hooking the interlocks together on that gray foam floor matting. On sale at HF @ 4/7.something. I stowed them there before trying to put 'em on the floor and it worked so well, I'm leaving them !  The sole will get sumpin' else.


----------



## tschmidty

The foam stuff for hull liner, huh? That actually sounds interesting. Some insulation from sound and temperature and probably doesn't look too bad.

Pics?


----------



## jimgo

Tim R. said:


> Definitely a great low buck solution Jim but that would not pass the sniff test by the admiral. Had to be matching Sunbrella and that is where the expense lies. I also wanted to balance the visual obstruction and comfort factors.


Tim,
I was suggesting wrapping the noodles in Sunbrella, rather than the pipe insulation. It would still match.


----------



## heinzir

I am in the process of wrapping large (3" dia) foam noodles with Sunbrella for my dinghy rub rail. I am using contact cement to attach the fabric to the noodles. I slit the noodles lengthwise and used spacers to hold the edges apart while I applied contact cement to one cut edge and the rest of the noodle as well as the fabric. When the cement is ready, I attach one edge of the fabric inside the slit (the cut edge that has the cement on it) and wrap the Sunbrella tightly around the noodle. The bond is instant. After wrapping around the noodle I cut the fabric, overlapping the slit by about an inch. Then I apply contact cement to the other cut edge in the noodle and tuck the remaining fabric in. This sounds complicated but its not. The point is to completely wrap the noodle with Sunbrella with the ends tucked into the slit but without gluing the slit shut. When finished, the noodles will snap over the gunnels of my El Toro dinghy and serve as a continuous fender to protect the mother ship.

I'll post pictures when I'm done.

Henry 
Chiquita


----------



## downeast450

The Kelly Kettle is great!

Cooking on shore can have limits when open fires are restricted. We use a Kelly Kettle to boil water and heat a pot of "whatever". It is a double walled aluminum kettle. There is a "pot rack" that sits on the chimney to heat an additional pot. Fuel is small sticks. It is even self regulating because when the water boils it spills into the fire "box" reducing the heat. When we want to boil a liter of water for 40 minutes it is perfect. We use it to "prepare" freeze dried meals. The pot rack allows us to heat anything from a coffee pot to a frying pan. NO OPEN FIRE!

Some photographs here!

http://s598.photobucket.com/user/gfatula/library/Kelly Kettle

Down


----------



## deniseO30

Made a serving tray that will fit on the stove top, I may cut the handles off if they restrict reaching over to the ice box on the boat. Not finished dovetail keys for the corners, sanded or varnished yet. Made from free wood! Like my dining room? engineered maple floor, real cherry for the trim, baseboards and pass through has a real cherry counter top...


----------



## Tim R.

jimgo said:


> Tim,
> I was suggesting wrapping the noodles in Sunbrella, rather than the pipe insulation. It would still match.


Gotcha. When I read your post I visualized the bare noodles as I have seen these bare on some boats before. I wanted to keep the obstruction to a minimum. I have built these for previous boats so I knew what worked for us.

Coming down to your neck of the woods next week for a wedding in Lancaster.


----------



## SloopJonB

heinzir said:


> I am in the process of wrapping large (3" dia) foam noodles with Sunbrella for my dinghy rub rail. I am using contact cement to attach the fabric to the noodles. I slit the noodles lengthwise and used spacers to hold the edges apart while I applied contact cement to one cut edge and the rest of the noodle as well as the fabric. When the cement is ready, I attach one edge of the fabric inside the slit (the cut edge that has the cement on it) and wrap the Sunbrella tightly around the noodle. The bond is instant. After wrapping around the noodle I cut the fabric, overlapping the slit by about an inch. Then I apply contact cement to the other cut edge in the noodle and tuck the remaining fabric in. This sounds complicated but its not. The point is to completely wrap the noodle with Sunbrella with the ends tucked into the slit but without gluing the slit shut. When finished, the noodles will snap over the gunnels of my El Toro dinghy and serve as a continuous fender to protect the mother ship.
> 
> I'll post pictures when I'm done.
> 
> Henry
> Chiquita


Gluing the fabric down is a great idea - saves all that sewing (which I can't do anyway!)

Just out of curiosity, why did you go to all the trouble of slitting noodles instead of simply using pipe insulation?

Also, how did you rig things up to get a straight cut from end to end? I've always found cutting any kind of tubing without having the cut wind around the tube a bit is very difficult without some sort of jig.


----------



## Cruiser2B

Well. I needed a new holding tank, one was stinkin and only 6 gallons, decided to take advantange of available space so I made one. New one holds 14 gallons and still fits in same location as old one

All said and done I had about $110.00 including hose, fittings and materials.

I posted quite a few pics on my blog, here is the link....i hate resizing pics

http://svsalacia.blogspot.com/2013/05/crap.html.

so far it holds water just fine


----------



## StormBay

Here is an instrument pod that I built for a raymariene c90. I molded it out of fiberglass using a rubbermade container as a mold. I also molded the pedestal guard for the area thats inset where it attaches. Because I already had some leftover glass and awl grip the only thing I had to buy was the $6 rubbermade. It still kinda looks like a tupperware container but considering the price of an actual Navpod...


----------



## SloopJonB

Very slick. The indentations on the side look like they are there to provide a mounting spot for bracketed electronics of some sort - VHF etc.


----------



## TakeFive

Cruiser2B said:


> Well. I needed a new holding tank, one was stinkin and only 6 gallons, decided to take advantange of available space so I made one. New one holds 14 gallons and still fits in same location as old one
> 
> All said and done I had about $110.00 including hose, fittings and materials.
> 
> I posted quite a few pics on my blog, here is the link....i hate resizing pics
> 
> http://svsalacia.blogspot.com/2013/05/crap.html.
> 
> so far it holds water just fine


A few years from now, after a few weeks of hot July Virginia weather, I don't want to even think of how your porous wood box is gonna stink up your boat. At some point it's going to rot through and leave an awful mess to clean up.

But it was cheap! :laugher

Did you consider coating the whole insides with epoxy or barrier coat? At least that would have eliminated the porosity and prevented rotting from inside out.


----------



## TakeFive

My nice big fenders would pick up a graphite color from the black dock floats, and then transfer it to my hull as they rolled around:







Fender covers are ridiculously expensive, and they just get disgusting looking anyway, so I made my own from old T-shirts:






They do look like the boating equivalent of trailer trash, but they're functional and cheap enough that I'm not reluctant to change them out whenever needed.

Here's "wit and witout" as they say in South Philly:


----------



## SloopJonB

TakeFive said:


> A few years from now, after a few weeks of hot July Virginia weather, I don't want to even think of how your porous wood box is gonna stink up your boat. At some point it's going to rot through and leave an awful mess to clean up.
> 
> But it was cheap! :laugher
> 
> Did you consider coating the whole insides with epoxy or barrier coat? At least that would have eliminated the porosity and prevented rotting from inside out.


Read it again - 5 coats of epoxy.


----------



## Barquito

> Read it again - 5 coats of epoxy.


That will do the trick. If it wasn't marine ply, it might crack due to voids in the wood. I would have also put a layer of glass in there. But, even if it does leak after 8 or 10 years, just replace it, or repair it (and keep the expensive fittings).


----------



## Cruiser2B

yes, it indeed does have 5 coats of epoxy, I also fiberglass taped all the seems on the inside and used 2 layers on the entire outside of the tank. If that does not work I may just buy a bucket with a long string...

I put water and chemical in the tank for a week here at the house then dumped it. Did not have any evidence of leaking. '

Also, this was my first try at build a structure with wood,epoxy and fiberglass, I think it turned out well. Time will tell.


----------



## Cruiser2B

TakeFive said:


> A few years from now, after a few weeks of hot July Virginia weather, I don't want to even think of how your porous wood box is gonna stink up your boat. At some point it's going to rot through and leave an awful mess to clean up.
> 
> But it was cheap! :laugher
> 
> Did you consider coating the whole insides with epoxy or barrier coat? At least that would have eliminated the porosity and prevented rotting from inside out.


Care to enlighten me on what is funny about trying to complete a DIY project?
I wouldn't call it cheap either, I used good products. I chose this route because I was reading on this board actually about a newer boat with a stainless holding tanks that had corroded. so I figured I'd give it a shot.


----------



## TakeFive

Cruiser2B said:


> Care to enlighten me on what is funny about trying to complete a DIY project?
> I wouldn't call it cheap either, I used good products. I chose this route because I was reading on this board actually about a newer boat with a stainless holding tanks that had corroded. so I figured I'd give it a shot.


I initially saw your caption that mentioned epoxy in the joints, but I did not scroll down far enough to see your reference to 5 coats on all the wood surfaces.

I was mistaken. Sorry about the error. Your design and execution look fine. Good job!

I would go back and delete my error, but you guys have saved it for posterity by quoting it. So there's not much I can do at this point.


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

TakeFive said:


> I initially saw your caption that mentioned epoxy in the joints, but I did not scroll down far enough to see your reference to 5 coats on all the wood surfaces.
> 
> I was mistaken. Sorry about the error. Your design and execution look fine. Good job!
> 
> I would go back and delete my error, but you guys have saved it for posterity by quoting it. So there's not much I can do at this point.


lesson learned I guess read the whole post before replying


----------



## Cruiser2B

TakeFive said:


> I initially saw your caption that mentioned epoxy in the joints, but I did not scroll down far enough to see your reference to 5 coats on all the wood surfaces.
> 
> I was mistaken. Sorry about the error. Your design and execution look fine. Good job!
> 
> I would go back and delete my error, but you guys have saved it for posterity by quoting it. So there's not much I can do at this point.


Thanks for the reply....I understand.

I will keep all posted on how it works out.


----------



## MedSailor

Cruiser2B said:


> Well. I needed a new holding tank, one was stinkin and only 6 gallons, decided to take advantange of available space so I made one. New one holds 14 gallons and still fits in same location as old one
> 
> All said and done I had about $110.00 including hose, fittings and materials.
> 
> I posted quite a few pics on my blog, here is the link....i hate resizing pics
> 
> Adventures of Salacia: Crap!.
> 
> so far it holds water just fine


This is so awesome!!! I've been recently figuring how to re-arrange all the tankage in my boat and the only things standing in my way right now are the cost of fabricating new stainless water tanks and the time and effort required to design and commission them.

While your tank might give you years of service, and there are some production boats that have wood/glass holding tanks I wouldn't trust my nonexistent epoxy skills to build a tank to hold diesel or poop. Lucky for me, the only tanks I need built (or to build) at this point are water tanks.

If one of them leaks it won't be catastrophic because the water is harmless, I'll have the ship's water supply decided across at least 2 tanks, and the tanks you've shown us *are easily repairable!*

Nicely done! I have once built a small boat out of plywood and glass, and it successfully kept water out.... so I can probably build something similar to keep water in.

Great idea! Thanks! (this'll also help me get more confident with glass work)

MedSailor


----------



## rhr1956

MedSailor said:


> I wouldn't trust my nonexistent epoxy skills to build a tank to hold diesel or poop. Lucky for me, the only tanks I need built (or to build) at this point are water tanks.
> 
> If one of them leaks it won't be catastrophic because the water is harmless, I'll have the ship's water supply decided across at least 2 tanks, and the tanks you've shown us *are easily repairable!*
> 
> Nicely done! I have once built a small boat out of plywood and glass, and it successfully kept water out.... so I can probably build something similar to keep water in.
> 
> Great idea! Thanks! (this'll also help me get more confident with glass work)
> 
> MedSailor


There isn't much to working with epoxy. The metering pumps and West Marine make is idiot proof. Five pumps of resin needs five pumps of hardener. If you can count, you can epoxy!


----------



## Cruiser2B

rhr1956 said:


> There isn't much to working with epoxy. The metering pumps and West Marine make is idiot proof. Five pumps of resin needs five pumps of hardener. If you can count, you can epoxy!


I agree, just make sure all surfaces are clean, i kept actetone and wipes handy....good luck


----------



## TakeFive

Also, don't mix up too much at once. It can heat up and you'll get a runaway reaction going.


----------



## SloopJonB

TakeFive said:


> Also, don't mix up too much at once. It can heat up and you'll get a runaway reaction going.


Pouring it into a flat pan like a paint tray will slow that down - the more surface area the better.


----------



## TakeFive

SloopJonB said:


> Pouring it into a flat pan like a paint tray will slow that down - the more surface area the better.


Agreed, shape of the container can have a big effect.


----------



## rhr1956

For small projects I mix the epoxy in a heavy duty paper dinner plate...the cardboard kind. Great for mixing in fillers and stuff.


----------



## mitiempo

MedSailor said:


> While your tank might give you years of service, and there are some production boats that have wood/glass holding tanks I wouldn't trust my nonexistent epoxy skills to build a tank to hold diesel or poop. Lucky for me, the only tanks I need built (or to build) at this point are water tanks.
> MedSailor


Make sure you source the correct epoxy for water tanks. Standard epoxy like West is not good for potable water.


----------



## bljones

A two-fer- low-buck swim ladder rungs and low-buck steering gear repair.



















Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Launch: Splash 2013


----------



## heinzir

SloopJonB said:


> Gluing the fabric down is a great idea - saves all that sewing (which I can't do anyway!)
> 
> Just out of curiosity, why did you go to all the trouble of slitting noodles instead of simply using pipe insulation?
> 
> Also, how did you rig things up to get a straight cut from end to end? I've always found cutting any kind of tubing without having the cut wind around the tube a bit is very difficult without some sort of jig.


Why noodles instead of pipe insulation? Because I like Big Uns! 
The new pool noodles are available in 3" dia. They will also add a bit of flotation. This old fiberglass has no flotation chambers built in.

As for cutting the slit, a simple knife cut works fine. I admit that my first try had a bit of a spiral to it but I paid closer attention to the second one and it came out fine.


----------



## fortis est veritas

Quick question to the experienced sailors: I purchased a columbia and it needs bottom paint (has it but it's ugly and weathered). This year I'm going to keep it close to home, in a fresh water lake in Kentucky and I wanted to know if their is an inexpensive alternative to bottom paints to get me through this season. I plan on getting her seaworthy over fall and winter, and setting sail for the Caribbean early 2014. 

Advice for the new guy would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Barquito

The cheapest way would be to not paint it at all. There is probably some left over from last season. Will probably get a good growth of whatever grows in your lake. Pressure wash and scrape it all off in the fall. However, if it was me, I would just go ahead and get some bottom paint on. Just a quick rough sanding, and slop it on there.


----------



## therapy23

fortis est veritas said:


> Quick question to the experienced sailors: I purchased a columbia and it needs bottom paint (has it but it's ugly and weathered). This year I'm going to keep it close to home, in a fresh water lake in Kentucky and I wanted to know if their is an inexpensive alternative to bottom paints to get me through this season. I plan on getting her seaworthy over fall and winter, and setting sail for the Caribbean early 2014.
> 
> Advice for the new guy would be greatly appreciated!


I would start a new thread.


----------



## fortis est veritas

therapy23 said:


> I would start a new thread.


Therapy 23...still new tot he forum, and haven't exactly got the "new thread" thing figured out; however, don't seem to understand why you feel the question didn't fit the thread "Low buck projects?"


----------



## Ritchard

Fortis,

This thread is kind of about finished cheapskate special projects. Bottom paint is simply regular maintenance. That having been said, as Barq suggests, either just sail it - you can give it a quick clean nice a month while its in the water - or slap some quick and easy paint on there . Bottomkote XXX would do nicely and is affordable.


----------



## bljones

a couple of quarts of bottomkote is less than $90, add in $10 worth of drywall sanding screens and a couple of days of gruntwork and your bottom is ready to go.


----------



## jimgo

fortis est veritas said:


> Therapy 23...still new tot he forum, and haven't exactly got the "new thread" thing figured out; however, don't seem to understand why you feel the question didn't fit the thread "Low buck projects?"


Becaus this thread really isn't about asking new questions, it's about people showing off their handiwork (aka low buck projects).


----------



## deniseO30

Fortis these items are cheap!


----------



## therapy23

I guess it is because the thread is directed toward those that have done a "low buck" project and are showing it off.

There are a lot of threads on bottom paint.

Usually someone with a question goes to the area, like maintenance, and starts a new thread. (Up in the top left is a button for new thread).

Then the specific question (or answer, or whatever) is presented and others can give their input on that particular idea/problem.

A lot of times in a thread there is a tangent begun that takes the thread off track from the original question. It can go far, far away and no longer applies to the original idea or thought. It is termed "thread drift". A thread about a small outboard not starting can end up being all about replacing fuel tanks. Someone looking for info on tanks may never find it because it is not really "there".

Not trying to bully. Just trying to be explanatory.

Welcome to Sailnet. There is a lot here.


----------



## Ritchard

I just need to confess right here that I have nothing to add at this time. I spent so much money on my boat over the winter that I have no right to be even reading this thread, let alone posting in it.


----------



## dem45133

bljones said:


> ah, SD, here is where the elegance kicks in- notice that the table is reversible. it can be mounted ahead of the pedestal when underway, and aft of the pedestal when moored. and, unlike typical cockpit tables, the slatted design allows for stemmed wineglasses to be hung between the slats, thereby lessening the possibility of spilled wine.


Why not do both... do up another for the forward side...

That's pretty good though by modifying something else. I mod many things... but they generally are a much bigger projects and not qualified for this thread.

Dave


----------



## THEFRENCHA

*Re: Low buck projects- Let's see 'em! My cheap but working fridge*

A few years ago I did a cheap fridge for the boat ...and it still works !
Bought a dorm fridge at Target for $60.00 and cut everything off .
Door , casing, insulation
Just kept the inside, grill, thermostat and cold plate Be careful not to cut or disconnect the freon line and to keep the wire+ plug !

Re installed directly in the boat ! Simply cut a door inside cold box to insert the cold plate and freon line and wires. I used duck tape to re-attache the door Should do a cleaner job with epoxy but ...hey It works

Its 110 V so Works at the dock and on the generator Simply plugged on a regular socket on the boat .
Before leaving on a cruise , if I plug it for an hour with a bag of ice inside , 
keeps the beer and food fresh for 48 hours 
If I plug it all night It becomes very cold ,freezes the meat , makes ice and then when cruising I just need 20 minutes / day on the generator to keep everything frozen


----------



## dem45133

I like that! My seafarer has a big "cooler" fed by seawater which I do not like as its another through-hull that has a risk. I wondered how I could covert it to a refrig/cooler. I'll incorporate a pump to pump out ice melt to above the water line.

Thanks for the idea.

Dave


----------



## jimgo

That's a really neat idea! I have 2 small dorm fridges at home. I might just have to try this!


----------



## Bene505

In the past, when we dinghy up to the boat it would be dark and one of us would have to turn on the nav lights or cockpit lights to light-up the boarding area.

So this winter I put two LED strip lights on the underside of the bar that connects the dinghy davits. Then I installed 3-way switchs like the kind you have at the top and bottom of your stairs at home. One of the switches is at the nav station. The other is a pull switch, like you see on ceiiing fans or closet lights, with the cord running through a vent to the transom.

When we dinghy up to the boat this summer, we can pull the cord and have instant lights.

It's actually a bit of a surprise for my wife. We'll see if she likes it.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Bene505

I may have mentioned this before. I put a relay on the freezer thermostat wires and power it off a FlexCharge dump load controller. When the voltage on the house bank gets high enough, it throws the relay and turns the freezer on (on high speed, no less), regardless of the freezers current temperature. I figure I'm storing extra energy as "cold"*, which means less nightly drain on the batteries.

* I know, there is only heat, not cold. But you get the idea. Should I have said it this way? I use extra energy from the solar panels to remove heat from the freezer and it's holding plate, so that at night the food and holding plate can absorb heat that is transferred through the insulation without the box getting warm enough to trigger the thermostat to turn the compressor on, thus saving cycles on the house bank.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## Just Tinkering (JT)

I built a very cheap swing mount for a portable Sirius/XM radio for a little Venture 17. The materials were basically some scrap Pine and some hardware from the shop junk drawer. (I just joined the forum after reading this thread - but because I have less than 10 posts I can't post a picture of this project)

The whole YouTube video of the project can be found at my YouTube Channel: drez20001 (This project is the most recent one)

This is a really great thread!


----------



## FinallySailing

Got one at home and just ordered another for the boat. Fleebay find at £10, thats a quid per year of CO safety. Must be the best "buck to safety" ratio !


----------



## FinallySailing

Just Tinkering (JT) said:


> I built a very cheap swing mount for a portable Sirius/XM radio for a little Venture 17. ...
> 
> The whole YouTube video of the project can be found at my YouTube Channel: drez20001 (This project is the most recent one)
> 
> This is a really great thread!


JT, welcome to the forum. Nice work on the swing mount. And you do have some very interesting other videos on your channel. Here is a direct link to your post:


----------



## Just Tinkering (JT)

Many thanks for the warm welcome and for posting the link!

JT/Dan


----------



## rikhall

OK - "Low buck"??? If you count my time - lol

I finished making a cover for my inflatable. We want it on when towing, high vis, keep the rain out and the stuff in ... Because of how it attaches, when coming back to the boat from shore, we can pull it up over us if it is raining ... It is a new and improved version of what I built for the last smaller inflatable.

Rik


----------



## downeast450

Very nice Rik. Did the Admiral help a little?

down


----------



## rikhall

downeast450 said:


> Very nice Rik. Did the Admiral help a little?


Mostly to tell me she liked it. I sewed it all, measured and cut etc. It is something I like doing. It drives her crazy because I don't pin the material and I don't use patterns.

Fun!

Rik


----------



## downeast450

I do get it. Love the walking foot. Fabric sculpture. A very clever design.

Down


----------



## downeast450

*emergency, special situation lighting*

Pak-Lite's Official Website - Pak-Lite Ultra with White LED Bulbs + Lithium Battery

These are great! Check the web site! We have several. Use them everywhere on and off boats. A two light headband with a red and green attaches around the mast on our Marshall catboat when we are motoring home late. IR, too. A 16 year old kid invented it.

Down


----------



## FinallySailing

When I wanted to move my solar panel from the deck to the stern railing I looked for some time around to source the most economical rail mounting brackets. As usual, if marketed for boats they come at a premium. The cheapest I could find was £4 each if made in plastic and double that if made in metal.

I finally came across "spacer bar saddles". They are used to fix tubular cable trunking onto walls. They come in 20 and 25 mm diameter, in plastic (white or black) and in metal (zinc plated). And they are really well priced, usually from £0.20 each in plastic and £0.30 in metal.

Here is a close up of one:









I've covered the screw that holds it on the frame with insulation tape and will also put some on the rail as not to scratch it.

Here they are on the back of my panel :


----------



## MarkBarrett

*Re: screen cockpit enclosure*



CapnRon47 said:


> Not sure this really counts as a project (other than the Admiral says it does). The creek and river we are on in NC has a major mosquito issue several times a year, so something is needed to keep them off if you want to enjoy the cockpit in the evening. I found a simple solution using a Walmart $30 screen siding that are sold for 10' x 10' canopy gazebo's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I simply gathered up the the parts that attach to the gazebo frame with some line and I lay that over the bimini. The bottom has elastic straps that attach nicely to the bimini hold downs and it even has 2 zippered entries for easy access. Here is the Admiral enjoying the results of this 'project.'


wow, your boat looks really decent and nicely done..wonderful job !


----------



## FinallySailing

Rebuilt my rudder.

Rockhopper's original rudder had quite a few prop nibbles ever since I bought her. Initially, I only intended to fill those. Last winter I decided to extend the leading edge but also the total length of the rudder. A big problem with the original rudder design is, that it causes significant weather helm. There are replacements available for $400 + shipping to the UK. I followed the suggestions that I found in other forums regarding the ideal size and extended the leading edge by 2.5 inches and the length by 4. I've cut the leading edge off next to the central hard wood core and also cut through the bottom of the rudder. I then extended length and width by bolting wood pieces in between. This was followed by spending many cold evenings in the attic, fiberglassing, sanding, filling, further glassing etc until I had the right finish. It didn't cost much in material, probably just under £40 + £15 in sanding sheets. I made bushes for the rudder uphaul and downhaul out of pipe inserts (30 pence each). Here is a picture of it antifouled and ready to be put back onto our boat. It is suspended it from the ceiling for painting so that I could do both sides in one go.


----------



## OPossumTX

Nice work!


----------



## Bene505

heinzir said:


> ...As for cutting the slit, a simple knife cut works fine. I admit that my first try had a bit of a spiral to it but I paid closer attention to the second one and it came out fine.


Would a bit of spiral help keep it in place?

Regards,
Brad


----------



## heinzir

Might help a little but I chose to glue the finished noodles directly to the dinghy gunwales top and bottom.


From El Toro and Mirror Dinghies

The colored blocks are giant Legos used as spacers to keep the edges of the slip apart so they don't accidentally get glued together.


From El Toro and Mirror Dinghies


From El Toro and Mirror Dinghies


From El Toro and Mirror Dinghies

The black bottom is epoxy mixed with graphite powder to make it slide down my homemade plywood ramp more easily. The heavy rains the last few weeks have caused the lake to be abnormally high, so the shoreline doesn't really show in the pictures. I usually have to cross about 10' of rip rap to get the boat in the water. I slide it over three 2' x 3' plywood panels that are hinged together with zip ties so they fold up for storage against the fence.

This is not my property by the way. It is an empty lot owned by the city and designated "commons." They license about 15 docks and my one mooring buoy for this location, for a nominal fee, of course. I live about a block and a half away and keep my dinghy up against the fence.


From El Toro and Mirror Dinghies


From El Toro and Mirror Dinghies


From El Toro and Mirror Dinghies


----------



## heinzir

Here's another super low buck "project" for trailerable boats. Slit some 12" or 18" pool noodles and slip one over each shroud and turnbuckle. Use tape to keep the slits closed. The noodles will protect the deck finish from being scratched by the shroud wires while travelling. I keep the noodles on while raising the mast; they keep the turnbuckles aligned properly and prevent kinks. Once the mast is up, I cut the tape, remove the noodles, and toss them in the back of the van to await the trip home.


From Chiquita


----------



## Bene505

Bene505 said:


> In the past, when we dinghy up to the boat it would be dark and one of us would have to turn on the nav lights or cockpit lights to light-up the boarding area.
> 
> So this winter I put two LED strip lights on the underside of the bar that connects the dinghy davits. Then I installed 3-way switchs like the kind you have at the top and bottom of your stairs at home. One of the switches is at the nav station. The other is a pull switch, like you see on ceiiing fans or closet lights, with the cord running through a vent to the transom.
> 
> When we dinghy up to the boat this summer, we can pull the cord and have instant lights.
> 
> It's actually a bit of a surprise for my wife. We'll see if she likes it.
> 
> Regards,
> Brad


She loved it. We finally got back to the boat at night, earlier this week. I said "Pull the cord." The 7 feet of LED strip under the davit bar instantly lit up the whole dinghy.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## G20

Hi everyone,

Attached are some pics of new wood companionway slides I installed yesterday. The original ones were plastic and had cracked in a number of places. They are made out of Sipo and lucky enough for me....cost nothing! My sister owns a wood shop and had some scrapes laying around. They were simple to mill up with all of her equipment. 

Total price to me was 45 minutes of time, 5 dollars in stainless hardware and a tiny bit of butyl tape. Works much better than the old ones and they have made the sliding action quite a bit quieter. 

-Chris


----------



## G20

And here is another! Found out my mast step had rotted (shocker) earlier this season and completed my first epoxy/fiberglass repair. 

Total cost in material was about 80 dollars including a 30 dollar quart of high build primer of which I used like an ounce out of. Sorry I don't have any more "in progress" photos but I choose to glass in a 3/8th inch plate of 6061 aluminum vs replacing the wood. The holes going through the deck and plate were drilled oversized and potted so the metal is completely incased. I hope that was an OK decision as that metal isn't coming out now! I don't think 80 bucks is a bad price for a mast step repair. 

-Chris


----------



## rhr1956

Did you use a Forstner bit to drill the holes, or was that from a hole saw?


----------



## G20

rhr1956 said:


> Did you use a Forstner bit to drill the holes, or was that from a hole saw?


Yeah, my "exploratory" holes were a bit on the large size. I used a 1/2' forstner, of which I learned not to do as it grabbed terribly at the glass and wanted to pull itself into the hull instantly.

The largest hole was from the old electrical deck connection for the mast light. I have yet to replace the light or the connection, project for another day.


----------



## miatapaul

Bene505 said:


> She loved it. We finally got back to the boat at night, earlier this week. I said "Pull the cord." The 7 feet of LED strip under the davit bar instantly lit up the whole dinghy.
> 
> Regards,
> Brad


well at least you did not ask her to pull your finger!

sounds like a good worthwhile effort. How was the light? I know a lot of times light from an LED is quite directional and that is great for task lighting, but without some sort of diffuser they don't give much spill so do you get much light on the aft deck? I am sure it makes it much more comfortable going up the swim ladder. Now all you need is one of the remote light switches.


----------



## jimgo

I found a vendor on eBay who sells cut-offs from large rolls of Sunbrella. I got the tan (wheat) Sunbrella I wanted for $8/yard. So, I'm in the process of making a dodger and bimini for the boat (frames were already there when I bouth the boat), and have some "extra" material, so I decided to do lifeline/pushpit covers. These are pool noodles that have been slit to fit over the rail, then cut to length. The ends have polyester cord sewn in so I can pull them closed (thus hiding the pool noodles) and there is velcro along the entire length of each pad. The pool noodles were $1 each at the dollar store, and I think I used 6 of those ($6). I used somewhere between 1 and 2 yards of material, so we'll call it $16. The Velcro was bought on eBay (it's probably not name-brand Velcro) for about $10 (including shipping), and I used good thread that I got from Sailrite ($9 for the entire spool, which I'm using for the other projects, too). So, for about $40, I have custom-made pads that go all around the cockpit. They make it MUCH more comfortable to lean against the rail than before.










I also made the sail cover as part of this process. That was about 5 yards of material ($40) plus twist-lock connectors ($15) and 2" wide velcro ($10) plus some heavy duty vinyl for chaff protection inside the cover ($15 remnant at Joanne's). So, for about $80, I have a custom-made sail cover.










I need to put something at the aft end of the cover to keep it tighter so it looks nicer...


----------



## Faster

jimgo said:


> ....
> I need to put something at the aft end of the cover to keep it tighter so it looks nicer...


Nice work... just add some ties to stretch the sail cover back to the (taut) topping lift..eezy peezy lemon squeezy... (as my granddaughter would say )


----------



## WinterRiver

A couple recent low-bucks projects:

I was tired of tying a tarp over the pedestal. The pedestal cover project used about 3/4 yard of Sunbrella I had left over. It was just barely enough for the top piece. For the under side I bought some cheapo outdoor canvas at the local fabric store. The color match isn't perfect, but it's close enough. Cost: about $10.

Last season I removed the suede wheel cover that was disintegrating in a couple places. My daughter and I wrapped the wheel in 300' of paracord. I think the navy coordinates well with the rest of the canvas, and I hope it will stay cleaner than white would. Cost: about $25.

This spring the top of the pedestal cover was beginning to wear through where we grab it. Enter the pieces of suede from the wheel cover that were too good to throw away. It was already perfectly shaped to fit, and the holes made it very easy to sew. Cost: free.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

Awesome job on the corded wheel cover.


----------



## Pcpk

Nice


----------



## Ritchard

Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> Awesome job on the corded wheel cover.


No kidding, great job. Can you show us the knotting techniques?


----------



## Ritchard

After months of spending too-damn-much money on projects to post them here, I finally have a low-buck project I can offer.

Among the many upgrades I wished to make to my old Endeavour 32 was a cockpit table. Being even cheaper than BLJones, there was no way I could justify the cost of an Edson or Lewmar teak table, and those starboard plastic ones just don't do it for me. I had read all the threads here about finishing a table with varnish, and here's what I came up with:




























Here's a shot of its very early life.










Edit to add: whoops, I just realized that's another piece I made up for stern rail seats. The method is exactly the same, however.

As wide planks of full dimension teak are now worth a kings ransom, I epoxy laminated the table together out of strips of 1x3. The epoxy adhesive was thickened with two parts teak sanding flour to one part colloidal silica, this made a strong glue that comes out just about the right colour. For alignment purposes the strips are joined with biscuits as well. I made one main piece per evening over several evenings. The three main pieces were then sent through a planer, the knives of which they made short order of. Then the main pieces were sanded, and the rest of the detail pieces were epoxied on afterwards using similar methods.

What follows is an awful lot of sanding, filleting joints, more sanding, then 14 or 15 coats of Minwax Spar Urethane, tempered with an awful lot more sanding between coats. The final couple of coats were completely wet sanded to achieve the truest flattest finish I could manage. The wet sanding alone was probably four or five hours. The last coat provides the gloss, with just the lightest wet sand with 2000 grit to knock off any tiny and inevitable dust pimples.

If you look carefully, there are many flaws in the finished product, but most of them will never be noticed by anybody but me. I figure these flaws make it real. I also learned a great deal about this kind of woodworking, something I had never done before.

I started this project in January, and have worked on it as I have had time between my other boat projects this spring. I finished it just an hour ago, and I couldn't be more pleased with the outcome, so quickly logged in here to show it off.

So the tally?

About $50 or 60 in teak, a few bucks worth of epoxy and thickener, maybe 15 bucks in various sandpapers, $15 in varnish, $10 in foam brushes, maybe $18 in hardware. I guess I slipped over the $100 threshold.

Well nevermind then. Move along.

So the real cost? If you took my hours invested at my regular billing rate, the table is worth somewhere in the neighbourhood of $6000. Perhaps I should have just bought the damned thing after all. I wouldn't be as proud of a store-bought table, but am I $6000 proud?


----------



## jimgo

Ritchard, how can you even keep such a POS on your boat? I'll tell you what...since I'm such a nice guy, I'll let you send that one to me, and I'll make sure it stays well out of sight so you don't ever have to see it again. I even promise that, in any pictures I post here, I'll be sure to hide it with charts, plates, and other stuff, too.


----------



## jsaronson

Ritchard, Nice work!!

What did you use for hardware?


----------



## rhr1956

Richard. I have a friend that works at West Marine and he tought me something about finishing wood projects. He is also a master cabinet maker but retired from that and sold his company. (I think he works at WM for the discounts so he can maintain his 50' motor-sailer, but that is another story.)

Anyway, I always admired his wood finishes and one day asked him how he achieved the look. He also uses the MinWax Spar Urethane instead of Varnish. After finishing his piece with several coats (I think he said 7-8 coats) of gloss product he switches to satin product for the final coat. It knocks down the hard shine but does not effect the "depth" of the finish. The results are amazing.


----------



## Ritchard

jsaronson

The hinges can be found here:

Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement

Lee Valley is like a wonderland for woodworking.


----------



## Ritchard

RHR, 

Having carefully studied Tim Lackey's site, I had been considering a last satin coat, but I think I am going to stick with the high gloss for now. I can always do another coat in the winter. I worked on this so much, I have to call it done for now. I want it installed for the Canadian Long Weekend.


----------



## SloopJonB

I think high gloss looks a lot better on deck than satin. Satin looks better belowdecks than high gloss in most cases.

If you're willing to do the work the best of all below is real hand rubbed - wet sanded high gloss then polished back by hand - it ends up somewhere between high gloss & satin - like a piano.

It's a lot of work.


----------



## rhr1956

Ritchard said:


> RHR,
> 
> Having carefully studied Tim Lackey's site, I had been considering a last satin coat, but I think I am going to stick with the high gloss for now. I can always do another coat in the winter. I worked on this so much, I have to call it done for now. I want it installed for the Canadian Long Weekend.


Ritchard,
I hope it didn't sound like I was saying your high-gloss finish was wrong. Heavens no...it looks great. I've always used high gloss varnish until recently switching to spar urethane. I have yet to use my friends technique, but I will in the future. I really like the thick depth look of multiple coats. I always thought the high gloss was the ideal finish but now I'm digging the satin final coat. I'm going to re-finish my grab rails soon. I'll post up pics when done. Your table looks awesome though. Good job.
RHR


----------



## Ritchard

rhr1956 said:


> Ritchard,
> I hope it didn't sound like I was saying your high-gloss finish was wrong. Heavens no...it looks great. I've always used high gloss varnish until recently switching to spar urethane. I have yet to use my friends technique, but I will in the future. I really like the thick depth look of multiple coats. I always thought the high gloss was the ideal finish but now I'm digging the satin final coat. I'm going to re-finish my grab rails soon. I'll post up pics when done. Your table looks awesome though. Good job.
> RHR


No worries, I didn't read it as criticism, it was in fact something I had been considering. But I just have to call it done sometime. These pieces have been hanging around underfoot for months, and literally hanging around from the beams in my garage for weeks.


----------



## rhr1956

Ritchard said:


> No worries, I didn't read it as criticism, it was in fact something I had been considering. But I just have to call it done sometime. These pieces have been hanging around underfoot for months, and literally hanging around from the beams in my garage for weeks.


Ha...I know how that goes. Funny thing though-I can always find what I'm looking for until my wife decides to "straighten things up". She thinks if things are out of sight the shop looks better. She puts things away in dedicated storage bins by category. As an example "electrical" might include black tape, batteries, remote for shop TV, pull chain for ceiling fans, my skil saw, DeWalt battery charger, light bulbs...good thing she is pretty and can cook


----------



## WinterRiver

Ritchard said:


> No kidding, great job. Can you show us the knotting techniques?


Ritchard -- Great job on the table!

The knotting technique for the wheel couldn't be simpler. As you can see from the photos, a series of slip knots creates the braided look. We pulled each knot as tightly as we could (a sailing glove is key) then pushed the wraps together as we went along. When we wrapped the wheel, placing the "braid" along the outside allowed us to put more wraps between each spoke. Later we turned the braid to the front where it is more comfortable for steering.

I played with lots of options, some that I found in books, some that I made up. The great plus with this version that I made up is the spool of cord never has to go around the wheel or be strung through anything. Note that the cord hangs in the same spot in both photos. I hung the spool from the pedestal so the cord would roll off the spool. When the spool was standing on end on the floor, the cord twisted as it came off the spool. The wrap looks much better when the cord doesn't twist.


----------



## SloopJonB

rhr1956 said:


> Ha...I know how that goes. Funny thing though-I can always find what I'm looking for until my wife decides to "straighten things up". She thinks if things are out of sight the shop looks better. She puts things away in dedicated storage bins by category. As an example "electrical" might include black tape, batteries, remote for shop TV, pull chain for ceiling fans, my skil saw, DeWalt battery charger, light bulbs...good thing she is pretty and can cook


It's an even better thing that she isn't a file clerk.


----------



## ggray

Ho, ho, just what I've been looking for. No round and round and round.... And looks better to boot.
Thanks!


WinterRiver said:


> Ritchard -- Great job on the table!
> 
> The knotting technique for the wheel couldn't be simpler. As you can see from the photos, a series of slip knots creates the braided look. We pulled each knot as tightly as we could (a sailing glove is key) then pushed the wraps together as we went along. When we wrapped the wheel, placing the "braid" along the outside allowed us to put more wraps between each spoke. Later we turned the braid to the front where it is more comfortable for steering.
> 
> I played with lots of options, some that I found in books, some that I made up. The great plus with this version that I made up is the spool of cord never has to go around the wheel or be strung through anything. Note that the cord hangs in the same spot in both photos. I hung the spool from the pedestal so the cord would roll off the spool. When the spool was standing on end on the floor, the cord twisted as it came off the spool. The wrap looks much better when the cord doesn't twist.


----------



## TakeFive

I hate to be a spoil sport, but is there any chance of crevice corrosion under that? I used to lock my wheel with a bungee loop in the slip, and found some signs of crevice corrosion under it after a week or so - and I am in a freshwater river.

I'm sure you're not the first person who has done this, so maybe someone else can chime in.


----------



## SloopJonB

I have to crib this a bit in order to qualify for the low buck category. I'm only going to show 10% of the total project. I got ten of these solid bronze opening ports for $60 each. I had to scavenge them from a derelict old cruiser to get them for that price and by the time I was done I already wondered if I had paid too much. 

The boat I recently bought has plastic deadlights with brass trim rings outside and teak rings inside. I wanted metal opening ports but even brass ones would have cost several boat bucks - bronze ones like these would have been almost as much as I paid for the whole boat plus they would have to come from New Zealand.

It's taken about a full days work each to remove, clean & polish them. That adds up when there are 10 of them to do. I had to start with 220 sandpaper and go up through 320, 400, 600, 800 & 1200 before I could begin buffing but I'm pretty happy with how they came out and especially the deal I got.

They won't go in until next fall or winter.

Before & after pics below.


----------



## Barquito

Sloop - Did you need to compound and polish the glass?


----------



## SloopJonB

No - the glass was fine, just filthy. I had to scrape paint off some of them and wipe them with solvent to get all the crap off but after that, just normal glass cleaning. 

They are heavily glazed with tempered glass. I haven't measured it but it looks like it's at least 3/8" thick.


----------



## rhr1956

Shweeet!


----------



## bljones

Nice work, SJB.


----------



## Bene505

Nicely done. I think saving a huge percentage on something quilifies as low buc.

One of my favorite threads!

Regards,
Brad


----------



## G20

Here is a one day sewing project...pup tent style ventilation tent for the forward hatch while at anchor. 

Used some left over sunbrella from a recent "re-cushion the boat" project and found some blue ripstop nylon for the forward section. There is a screen, can't see in the pic, to keep the bugs out. 

Cost about 30 bucks and time.


----------



## bljones

well done!


----------



## bljones

New low-buck project:

Dock Six Chronicles: New "Low-Buck" Project Boat


----------



## Ritchard

bljones said:


> New low-buck project:
> 
> Dock Six Chronicles: New "Low-Buck" Project Boat


Sunscreen.


----------



## RyanL

I got tired of looking at the seriously faded and scratched plastic veneered plywood of the cabin of my 1971 Yankee Dolphin, Muirin, and since i wasn't going to rebuild the whole thing, i figured I'd cover it up! 

Painting wasn't going to happen- sanding the veneer would be a nightmare- and finding pictures to fit the odd shape of bulkhead was unrealistic either, so i got out the exacto knife, and started cutting- well, after LOTS of sketching out the design...

cost: cheap! the real cost was the time- the good thing about marquetry is you can do it in bits and pieces (pun intended). good rainy day(s) project. i mounted the marquetry on some scrap plywood, and trimmed it out with some scraps i had from redoing the kitchen at home. a few coats of spar varnish later, she's ready for hanging! Maybe $10 in materials, 15 hours of cutting and fitting? It's a sort of meditation.

will post pictures once i have enough posts...


----------



## RyanL

here are those pics of the marquetry. 

there are a few more spots that i might do the same- you can see into the v berth where there's some nastiness- might do a nautical compass.

this is a great thread by the way, keep em coming!


----------



## bljones

Holy crap!!!!
okay, this thread has just gotten a big steaming dollop of awesomeness added! Ryan, that is some beautiful work.

I am not worthy!


----------



## PorFin

bljones said:


> New low-buck project:
> 
> Dock Six Chronicles: New "Low-Buck" Project Boat


Quack's gonna get jealous (just sayin'...)


----------



## jimgo

I agree with Jones...WOW, very nice!


----------



## dem45133

Nice job on restoring the ports (pg 76 #760)! Something I would do and as a matter of fact am keeping my eye open for restorable brass or bronze ports for mine... but mine are much bigger and rectangular... will see what luck I have finding any.


----------



## dem45133

RyanL said:


> here are those pics of the marquetry.
> 
> there are a few more spots that i might do the same- you can see into the v berth where there's some nastiness- might do a nautical compass.
> 
> this is a great thread by the way, keep em coming!


Wow that is excellent! While I can do most any kind of fabrication (wood, metal, or fiberglass)... I can NOT do art. That is a different kind of talent. Nice job! It really adds a touch of class to the woodwork!


----------



## eherlihy

RyanL said:


> here are those pics of the marquetry.
> 
> there are a few more spots that i might do the same- you can see into the v berth where there's some nastiness- might do a nautical compass.
> 
> this is a great thread by the way, keep em coming!


WOW!!

'Wanna come by my boat someday???


----------



## dem45133

On further thought on the marquetry .... I just need to find an artist to draw up the art shapes... then I can do the actual construction of it.... hummm... its got ME thinking!


----------



## Michael K

With so many boats on the market, selling becomes rather difficult. But if Ryan ever wants to sell his boat, it now stands apart from most others. Beautiful job!


----------



## utchuckd

So who else googled marquetry today? I'd never heard of it before. Great work Ryan.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

utchuckd said:


> So who else googled marquetry today? I'd never heard of it before. Great work Ryan.


Now you mentioned it, I looked it up now. 

Nice pieces out there.


----------



## RyanL

thanks for the compliments- my ego is appreciating the shine!

marquetry is really cool- i love the simplicity of it: only using the subtle differences in grain orientation or wood species to create a huge overall effect.

as far as art goes, i can't do it either: i traced a few images of sailboat photos (might be one of your boats), and tweaked it here and there to fit what i needed. basically tracing over the image i drew in pencil with an exacto knife with the wood underneath. finish the cut in the veneer. repeat: a few hundred times!

this guy does some really cool work!

especially the big boat he does for a friend, where you can follow the process he goes through: talk about a great friend to have!


----------



## MedSailor

PorFin said:


> Quack's gonna get jealous (just sayin'...)












PaulinVictoria is going to get jealous! You have an orange boat!

MedSailor

PS Ryan, nice job! I put forward the motion that your work be removed from the low buck project thread, because your labor is worth many, many hundreds of dollars on that!


----------



## PaulinVictoria

Heh, that would look pretty cool. I actually have 2 dinghies at the moment, still deciding what to do, one is a nice little Zodiac which motors fine and is stable, but not great for the mutt with the soft floor and doesn't row at all. The other is a little hardshell dingy, which rows nicely, is stupidly unstable but better for the mutt as he can't puncture it.
I guess I need a mix of both, whether that's a hard floor zodiac, or a fibreglass dingy with more flotation around it. A topic for a different thread I would think. Carry on


----------



## StormBay

RyanL,

Truly beautiful work! Where do you get the thin wood from? I would love to try my hand at something like that but don't even know where to start..


----------



## SloopJonB

PaulinVictoria said:


> Heh, that would look pretty cool. I actually have 2 dinghies at the moment, still deciding what to do, one is a nice little Zodiac which motors fine and is stable, but not great for the mutt with the soft floor and doesn't row at all. The other is a little hardshell dingy, which rows nicely, is stupidly unstable but better for the mutt as he can't puncture it.
> I guess I need a mix of both, whether that's a hard floor zodiac, or a fibreglass dingy with more flotation around it. A topic for a different thread I would think. Carry on


How about a Walker Bay with the optional inflatable tube around it?


----------



## SloopJonB

RyanL said:


> thanks for the compliments- my ego is appreciating the shine!
> 
> marquetry is really cool- i love the simplicity of it: only using the subtle differences in grain orientation or wood species to create a huge overall effect.
> 
> as far as art goes, i can't do it either: i traced a few images of sailboat photos (might be one of your boats), and tweaked it here and there to fit what i needed. basically tracing over the image i drew in pencil with an exacto knife with the wood underneath. finish the cut in the veneer. repeat: a few hundred times!
> 
> this guy does some really cool work!
> 
> especially the big boat he does for a friend, where you can follow the process he goes through: talk about a great friend to have!


I have a couple of inherited pieces of Italian marquetry which include mother of pearl inlay. Incredible skill to make but I have never really cared for it. I find in most cases when I look at it I am admiring the skill of the craftsman rather than the beauty of the item.

That said, I have seen a number of boat tables with central inlays - compass roses and so forth - that are really something special. It is very easy for it to get overdone though, in which case it seems akin to the craftsman boasting or simply showing off.


----------



## jeepjeff

I made a bilge pump using my rechargeable drill, a couple old pieces of garden hose, and an small "Drill Pump." The drill pump is self priming and cost about $6 - I already had the drill and hose laying around. I'll try to attach a picture of the pump, if successful you will see the stem on the back of the pump that the drill drives. This thing moves a lot of water fast and you can direct the water anywhere you put the outlet end of the hose. 

Could also be used for a little washing up of the boat if desired.


----------



## rhr1956

jeepjeff said:


> I made a bilge pump using my rechargeable drill, a couple old pieces of garden hose, and an small "Drill Pump." The drill pump is self priming and cost about $6 - I already had the drill and hose laying around. I'll try to attach a picture of the pump, if successful you will see the stem on the back of the pump that the drill drives. This thing moves a lot of water fast and you can direct the water anywhere you put the outlet end of the hose.
> 
> Could also be used for a little washing up of the boat if desired.


When they say don't use it to pump oils, they mean it! I have personal experience in the matter.


----------



## dem45133

rhr1956 said:


> When they say don't use it to pump oils, they mean it! I have personal experience in the matter.


Why? What are they mfg it from that can't do oil? Can't be much good then.


----------



## rhr1956

dem45133 said:


> Why? What are they mfg it from that can't do oil? Can't be much good then.


I said "oil" but should have said "flamable liquids"...but anyway, I used the first pump I had to empty some used motor oil from a drain pan to a one gallon plastic bottle. It pumped about a 1/2 quart and was toast. Notice Label in pic


----------



## miatapaul

rhr1956 said:


> I said "oil" but should have said "flamable liquids"...but anyway, I used the first pump I had to empty some used motor oil from a drain pan to a one gallon plastic bottle. It pumped about a 1/2 quart and was toast. Notice Label in pic


Well I don't think motor oil is really considered flammable. Yes, it will burn you you really have to try to get it to burn, and I don's see a spark igniting motor oil, and I imagine that is the issue it is warning about, spark and or heat causing problems. The flash point of motor oil is around 450 degrees, so I think it should be OK in a drill powered pump as the pump likely would melt before it started to make the motor oil flamible. The last one I had included plastic tubes to be able to pull motor oil out the dipstick and even included oil change instructions. I used to use them to pump muriatic acid through a boiler heating coil, as we had really hard well water. Had to do it about every 6 months. I could get about two uses before it started leaking. Then I would pitch them and get a new one. I really don't suggest using one for Muriatic acid as it is really nasty.


----------



## jeepjeff

Good heads up! I need not worry though because I have an outboard and will only be draining water, and maybe the occasional whoops from using the head in rough weather.....


----------



## RyanL

Storm- sorry, was away for a few days. i got the wood from certainlywood.com

i've always admired the work on old pieces of furniture, and really wanted to try it. so, i got the exotic sampler a few years ago, did a small oak leaf inlaid into my kitchen table, and the rest is history. i was amazed at how much veneer i got for $40- there's enough stuff in there to last me years! then, you look at all the pieces they have in the inventory, and it makes we wonder if i've chosen the wrong profession...

i use an exacto knife, some folks use a super fine jigsaw. be sure to get some marquetry tape from Certainly as well- some species of wood easily split/splinter when you cut or handle it. plus, you tape everything together to hold the pieces in place while glueing. it's a specialized gentle tape that doesn't stain or damage the thin veneers.

it's like unwrapping a present when you sand off the tape and see what you've created!


----------



## trkarl

jeepjeff said:


> I made a bilge pump using my rechargeable drill, a couple old pieces of garden hose, and an small "Drill Pump." The drill pump is self priming and cost about $6 - I already had the drill and hose laying around. I'll try to attach a picture of the pump, if successful you will see the stem on the back of the pump that the drill drives. This thing moves a lot of water fast and you can direct the water anywhere you put the outlet end of the hose.
> 
> Could also be used for a little washing up of the boat if desired.


Great idea! I'm off to get one! Would work well as a backup if your batteries went flat.

Plus, I wanted to subscribe to this awesome thread! So many great ideas and talent!


----------



## katsailor

miatapaul said:


> Well I don't think motor oil is really considered flammable. Yes, it will burn you you really have to try to get it to burn, and I don's see a spark igniting motor oil, and I imagine that is the issue it is warning about, spark and or heat causing problems. The flash point of motor oil is around 450 degrees, so I think it should be OK in a drill powered pump as the pump likely would melt before it started to make the motor oil flamible. The last one I had included plastic tubes to be able to pull motor oil out the dipstick and even included oil change instructions. I used to use them to pump muriatic acid through a boiler heating coil, as we had really hard well water. Had to do it about every 6 months. I could get about two uses before it started leaking. Then I would pitch them and get a new one. I really don't suggest using one for Muriatic acid as it is really nasty.


We use small transfer pumps in my industry to transfer oil. Because of the viscosity of oil most pumps fail after a very short period of time. Some failures may be attributed due a reaction between the fluid and the impeller. Jabsco make a transfer pump suitable for this application.


----------



## Andrew65

I anchor off and solved my dink from tapping the hull at night and waking me up by threading my painter through a 5 foot piece of pvc tubing before bedtime to hold it off. Works like a charm, no more dingy tap. It`s not my idea. Got it from a magazine, but very effective and quiet.


----------



## PaulinVictoria

I have a couple of GPS receivers (that were low-bucks in themselves), one is to feed the chartplotter (another low-buck item), and the second feeds the VHF (another low-buck item!). I wanted this level of redundancy, and also it means I don't have to switch on the chartplotter in order to have the position into the radio.
Anyway, rather than buying a rail mount for the two receivers, I made a little mount for them out of some teak ply, not only does it look rather neat, it means no holes drilled in the boat, it uses the existing deck plate and the dorade is fully functional.


----------



## downeast450

A new instrument panel.

I added a tach and built this one for our I-28.

Insturment Panel For Sailnet Slideshow by gfatula | Photobucket

Down


----------



## SloopJonB

Nice. What was your thinking re: building it up with the "filler" instead of just using a sheet of white plastic?


----------



## Faster

Wondered the same....


----------



## downeast450

I wanted to angle the gauges up a little to make them easier to read at the helm and keep a bit of a lip in place over each one to shed water. I didn't show the plywood strip I added across the bottom inside edge of the panel to offset it at an upward angle. It did improve gauge visibility. I have a Garmin chart plotter / radar display at the helm. It has a video camera input that I have not yet used. I purchased a "rear view" video camera for a car for about $30.00. I plan to install it in the base of the pedestal facing back at the instrument panel. It should give a me view of the gauges on the screen. That would be helpful.

Down


----------



## jimgo

Down, I'd be tempted to put that on the bow pulpit for when the jib is out.


----------



## downeast450

That is an idea. Perhaps a second one with an A/B switch in the feed line. It would be cool to have a view back of the boat underway. Now to hook up a way to record the images.

Down


----------



## obelisk

here is a backup voltage regulator that I just installed here in NZ. design came from Marine Electrics of Opua. It is a Bosch RE55 regulator for a car and a common relay for the ignition. well under NZD$100 and a great backup to a Balmar/AmplePower/etc. it is single stage but only set to bring battery voltage up to 14.2V so you may want to keep an eye on your electrolyte levels if motoring for an extended period but that voltage is low enough to avoid frying most lead-acid batteries (can't speak for gel, AGM or lithium). it is a fantastic backup that could save you a big headache should that costly "Smart" regulator fail at an inconvenient time.


----------



## Bene505

downeast450 said:


> That is an idea. Perhaps a second one with an A/B switch in the feed line. It would be cool to have a view back of the boat underway. Now to hook up a way to record the images.
> 
> Down


I think he meant to aim it forward to help see other boats.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## downeast450

Bene505 said:


> I think he meant to aim it forward to help see other boats.
> 
> Regards,
> Brad


Brad,

Ha! I suppose you are right! I guess the sailing I do here is not congested enough to even think I would need to be able to see around the jib. I can imagine situations where that could be helpful. It sure could be helpful avoiding lobster pots. I will have to give it some serious thought. The cameras are inexpensive enough to play with the idea.

I am working on "trout cam" in the brook behind my house. A small pool with about 30 sea run brookies I feed every day is the perfect spot to install an uw video camera that allows me to watch them on my computer screen in the house. I clearly have too much time on my hands!

Thanks,

Down


----------



## jimgo

Down, yes, I was thinking of a forward-looking camera. I toyed with the idea of one up on the masthead, but if I could find a protected spot (like near the bow light), down low would make sense.

Hmmmm...now to rethink some of my plans...


----------



## mitiempo

obelisk said:


> here is a backup voltage regulator that I just installed here in NZ. design came from Marine Electrics of Opua. It is a Bosch RE55 regulator for a car and a common relay for the ignition. well under NZD$100 and a great backup to a Balmar/AmplePower/etc. it is single stage but only set to bring battery voltage up to 14.2V so you may want to keep an eye on your electrolyte levels if motoring for an extended period but that voltage is low enough to avoid frying most lead-acid batteries (can't speak for gel, AGM or lithium). it is a fantastic backup that could save you a big headache should that costly "Smart" regulator fail at an inconvenient time.


It gives you the same results as the dumb regulator that is standard on alternators - in boats or cars. This is often disabled to add an external reg.


----------



## obelisk

yes, that's correct, but it is "plug-and-play" with the connections from my alternator as they are setup for my Balmar ARS-5, eliminating the need to crack open the alternator and reinstall the original internal regulator. I still have the original internal regulator and, i suppose, that is the backup to my backup at this point .


----------



## downeast450

jimgo said:


> Down, yes, I was thinking of a forward-looking camera. I toyed with the idea of one up on the masthead, but if I could find a protected spot (like near the bow light), down low would make sense.
> 
> Hmmmm...now to rethink some of my plans...


I will be looking into it, too. A switch that makes it easy and inexpensive to move between a couple of cameras and deliver the signal at the helm will be crucial. The installation of cameras is simple.

Any and all ideas for a switch will be welcome!

Down


----------



## fred1diver

depending on the connectors for the camera, you could possibly use an audio/video switcher, you can get them for different types of connectors and they aren't expensive


----------



## downeast450

fred1diver said:


> depending on the connectors for the camera, you could possibly use an audio/video switcher, you can get them for different types of connectors and they aren't expensive


I was thinking something like the old data switched. " A / B " Switches I think they were called. Perhaps an A/B/C... There must be an electric equivalent for video inputs by now?

Down


----------



## captmayhem

Cabin hatch running rails, 34 years old and the only love they've seen is a quick wipe with some polyurethane and a pound and a half of 3M 5200 by the looks of them.
Removed the first one today, and it was stuck down in places so hard I had to slice it off with a blade.
Wood is in pretty poor show, I'll strip the old finish, repair the damaged piece and epoxy coat and spar varnish, you won't recognize it I hope,lol


----------



## rhr1956

captmayhem said:


> Cabin hatch running rails, 34 years old and the only love they've seen is a quick wipe with some polyurethane and a pound and a half of 3M 5200 by the looks of them.
> Removed the first one today, and it was stuck down in places so hard I had to slice it off with a blade.
> Wood is in pretty poor show, I'll strip the old finish, repair the damaged piece and epoxy coat and spar varnish, you won't recognize it I hope,lol


Mayhem...if you are handy enough to make the repairs, why not just make new pieces? I would think it would easily qualify as a "low buck" project and the outcome would be new instead of "fixed".


----------



## captmayhem

rhr1956 said:


> Mayhem...if you are handy enough to make the repairs, why not just make new pieces? I would think it would easily qualify as a "low buck" project and the outcome would be new instead of "fixed".


couple of reasons:
First, why? the wood can be repaired, there's no need for me to add to the decline in quality hardwoods.
Which brings me to quality, the teak I'd find these days, unless I want to pay a premium, really is not very good. This wood, whilst old and grungy, has many years left in it, and has such nice grain, I'd not want to replace it with some bland teak that I'd pay through the nose for.
Time was another factor, even if I had some 2x2 Teak, it would take a while to plane down and set up the dado to make, then, I'd still have to finish them and drill holes etc. 
If this was a newer boat I might have gone that route, but she is 34 and is our first boat. The idea was not to put in "too" much until we know if sailing is for all the family and not just me,lol.

I'll upload some pics when I get back later this week, but I repaired the fracture and replaced the broken piece, sanded and gave three coats of west/207 clear.
This week I will wet sand and spar varnish, then it's back on the boat.
Kind of racing against mother nature right now, very happy to be in the warm still, but that won't last and I still have the chain plates to seal up before I cover for winter......
It's all just time, not a lot of money


----------



## rhr1956

Mayhem...that's a fair enough answer. Have fun with it. ;-)


----------



## fred1diver

*diy instrument pod*

having a small 23' trailer sailer, there isn't much place to install compass, fish finder and my iPhone, and the fact I didn't want to place them on the cabin wall, so I can use them as a seat back, I made this low buck instrument pod, which cost me under 10$ excluding screws, stain and varnish, I already had 
very easy to install and to remove
and, I'm working out a bag which will be attached on the back of the pod


----------



## Brent Swain

Any pressure washer pump with 3gpm output ,with ceramic plungers makes a good watermaker pump. The 540 GPD membranes fit perfectly in a 2 1/2 inch sch 40 pipe, for a membrane housing.
Composing heads costing hundreds of dollars can be home made for under $50. Sheet blocks can be made for under $2 ,which are far stronger than commercially made ones costing over $30. Just cut the cheeks out of 3/16th aluminium, round them off and put spacers, SS bolts and sheaves in. Sheaves can be cut out of 1/2 inch poly cutting boards with a hole saw, and the groove filed in with a round rasp.


----------



## Delezynski

In April 2007 we did a haul out in La Paz Mexico. During that haul I noticed the rudder on our boat had side to side play in the pintle & gudgeons. On our boat they are heavy bronze fitting and I am sure the cost would be very high to replace them. Also, they looked in very good shape, just a bit loose where the pin fits into the cavity.

I shimmed our our pintle and gudgeons using high-density polyethylene or HDPE, better known as the plastic milk cartons are made out of. You can see photos and brief write up in our position report at:
Guenevere's Position Reports April 1, 2007

I bring this up now as I just got back from working on Guenevere in the storage yard. During today's task, I removed the tiller for refinishing.

With the tiller off, I did a check of how the rudder is and how the shimming has held up. As of now, I can find NO PLAY in the rudder beyond what was there when I did the shimming! So, after thousands of miles, it's still tight and secure but turns/swings easy!

Greg


----------



## Andrew65

Here`s is a low buck project. 

With a boat staying in the water for the winter, ice is a problem for everyone. It`s no exception up here in Norway. My solution is to hire migrant workers from Europe (I won`t name nationalities in order not to offend) to keep the ice at bay by having them stand on the dock and feed them baked beans, equip them with one end of a long preforated hose to create bubbles that surrounds my boat. As they feed themselves with said baked beans, they fart into the hose, thus creating bubbles to deter the ice. It`s a win win situation. 

Is this low buck enough for the thread? Any takers?


----------



## captmayhem

rhr1956 said:


> Mayhem...that's a fair enough answer. Have fun with it. ;-)


Got this one done and ready to put back on the boat


----------



## obelisk

mayhem, it's really amazing how far a little bit of varnish goes towards improving the overall cosmetic appearance of a boat. while stuck on board during a nasty low pressure a week or so ago, i addressed a nagging varnish problem of my own. the trim around the inside of hatches gets a raw deal: lots of salt spray and UV when open and lots of condensation when closed. couple that with being a cruiser and interior brightwork, and it's a recipe for neglect, at least for me.


























last picture is with first of 5-6 coats, however many are needed to get that smooth, "deep" appearance. it was something i had put out of my mind but refinished, it really changes the entire feel of my salon.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

obelisk said:


> mayhem, it's really amazing how far a little bit of varnish goes towards improving the overall cosmetic appearance of a boat. while stuck on board during a nasty low pressure a week or so ago, i addressed a nagging varnish problem of my own. the trim around the inside of hatches gets a raw deal: lots of salt spray and UV when open and lots of condensation when closed. couple that with being a cruiser and interior brightwork, and it's a recipe for neglect, at least for me.
> 
> last picture is with first of 5-6 coats, however many are needed to get that smooth, "deep" appearance. it was something i had put out of my mind but refinished, it really changes the entire feel of my salon.


what did you use? Turned out really nice. I love the look of varnished wood.


----------



## obelisk

International Goldspar, it's a bit darker than the Z-Spar that i usually use but, surprisingly, varnish choices here in NZ are very limited. It takes MUCH longer to dry than Z-spar ~30hrs before you can sand without gumming up the paper. however, i think it will look OK when complete.


----------



## krazzz

I think the darker color looks good there. Of course we can't see the rest of the boat but overall looks good.


----------



## erps

So the commercial fishing fleet in my neck of the woods is buying up and installing Rigid Industry's LED driving lamps like crazy. They are expensive. I bought one for those occasions when we have to travel in the dark. They're expensive enough that I wanted a mount that could be quickly mounted and removed so I can store it safely below. I made a small mount pad out of some teak I had lying around the garage, but how to mount it to the pulpit? I considered a few options but settled on a hose clamp. I used a dremel tool to cut out a slot all the way through the teak pad that will secure the pad to the pulpit with the turn of a screw driver.


----------



## obelisk

this one is not really about the low cost project, changing a through hull, it's about saving NZD$430.10 for a 1-hour lift-and-hold!


----------



## SloopJonB

"I meant to do that" - that's your story and you're stickin' with it, right?


----------



## obelisk

SloopJonB said:


> "I meant to do that" - that's your story and you're stickin' with it, right?


of course! she's a 1982 Skye 51.

here's a picture from Puerto Montt, Chile where I didn't mean to do that...










the railroad ties set out on the grid had been attacked by shipworms and the one at the front of the keel broke in half, you can see one piece just aft of the front of the keel. I knew i was in trouble when i could hear the wood creaking as the tide went out. we nosed down imperceptibly until coming to rest, bow and keel touching. it was a pretty stressful event but we got the bottom cleaned just the same


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

obelisk said:


> this one is not really about the low cost project, changing a through hull, it's about saving NZD$430.10 for a 1-hour lift-and-hold!


You're saving some money so it counts.

I almost wish I was somewhere with large tides so I could change some through hulls too without hauling out.


----------



## krazzz

I am a little jealous of the tides too but I probably have the better end of the deal with not having to worry about them and have them factor into my plans.


----------



## Bene505

obelisk,

Excellent pictures, and love how you grabbed something to put under the bow.

Do you tie something to the side of the hull when you do this, to keep the hull from getting scratched? A boat wake at the wrong time could rub get coat aginst rocks.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## obelisk

i had a fender board against the wall, so there was no scraping there. in hindsight, the rock under the bow probably was not a great idea as it caused a very concentrated force on the small spot on the hull but it did stop the bow from diving further and i have seen no ill effects in the two years since. knock on wood.


----------



## nighthawk

*Re: Low buck projects- Let's see 'em! My cheap but working fridge*



THEFRENCHA said:


> A few years ago I did a cheap fridge for the boat ...and it still works !
> Bought a dorm fridge at Target for $60.00 and cut everything off .
> Door , casing, insulation
> Just kept the inside, grill, thermostat and cold plate Be careful not to cut or disconnect the freon line and to keep the wire+ plug !
> 
> Re installed directly in the boat ! Simply cut a door inside cold box to insert the cold plate and freon line and wires. I used duck tape to re-attache the door Should do a cleaner job with epoxy but ...hey It works
> 
> Its 110 V so Works at the dock and on the generator Simply plugged on a regular socket on the boat .
> Before leaving on a cruise , if I plug it for an hour with a bag of ice inside ,
> keeps the beer and food fresh for 48 hours
> If I plug it all night It becomes very cold ,freezes the meat , makes ice and then when cruising I just need 20 minutes / day on the generator to keep everything frozen


Oh, now that little dorm fridge I have is just dying to be dismantled and turned into something so grand as this!


----------



## nighthawk

Was looking for a way to do this--now I've got to go and steal your idea! With some personal modifications of course!


----------



## nighthawk

I really waht to learn how to do the cord wrapping like that--any suggestions as to reading material or such?


----------



## nighthawk

Oh-WHEW! I thought that was jsut my wife that did that. Some days I'd swear she's just trying to screw with my mind!


----------



## nighthawk

FinallySailing said:


> JT, welcome to the forum. Nice work on the swing mount. And you do have some very interesting other videos on your channel. Here is a direct link to your post:
> 
> Boat Swing Mount For GPS or Sirius Radio - YouTube





bljones said:


> Holy crap!!!!
> okay, this thread has just gotten a big steaming dollop of awesomeness added! Ryan, that is some beautiful work.
> 
> I am not worthy!


Holy Crap----How are the rest of us supposed to compete with that? You'd pretty much have to build an entire sailboat from the keel up for less that a buck fifty! Nice work-jsut amazing


----------



## rikhall

Silly little thing but it gets borrowed all over our club for winterizing engines.

Big bucket, 
cheap plastic thruhull, 
little bit of wood carved to fit
some hose
two hose clamps
(supply your own pink antifreeze)



















Rik


----------



## deniseO30

*Got this wood....*

got this in my quest to get free lumber when and where I can ....








Sample;








Becomes this, but this only a small part of the 2nd pile.








It's Beech! 4x4 and 5x5 in random lengths. 
This morning 10/12/13 I finished cutting most of it into 3x3" to make this..
it will be a long term project. 
Search word; Roubo "Roubo split top" 
I can do this! why? I don't know!


----------



## SloopJonB

I feel so inadequate.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

Looks like it will be a nice shop table. I've been thinking of doing something like that.

I guess I'll have to work on some skills first.

and get tools to do it.


----------



## Alex W

A few small ones:

I made this simple shelf out of Starboard that lives on the stern pulpit below the solar panel. It holds 3 cylinders of propane and a 2 gallon fuel tank out of the way and safely not in the cabin:









It is held in place with 4 1" U-bolts that just clamp the pulpit.

Simple shaft coupling remover that anyone can make with a hand drill (though I did it on a milling machine) and tap set:









The steel is 1/4" plate.










Simple dinghy cover made out of Sunbrella Surlast. Picked up the Surlast (20 yards of it) for $2/yard delivered on eBay.


----------



## deniseO30

*Re: Got this wood....*



deniseO30 said:


> got this in my quest to get free lumber when and where I can ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sample;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Becomes this, but this only a small part of the 2nd pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's Beech! 4x4 and 5x5 in random lengths.
> This morning 10/12/13 I finished cutting most of it into 3x3" to make this..
> it will be a long term project.
> Search word; Roubo "Roubo split top"
> I can do this! why? I don't know!


Would make one heck of a nice dining room table too ! Cut the turkey right on the table for thanksgiving!


----------



## AllThumbs

I cut down an old mainsail and made it into a 100% jib.

Cost: One spool of dacron thread, 18' - 3/16 dacron line, 2 - sewing machine needles (broke). I had it all on hand, so free. 

It will tide me over for a season until I can buy a new one.

In the first picture you can see my old jib as a pattern under the new one (just cut). I made the new one slightly higher aspect ratio.


----------



## macwester26

Good for you . 
This is something I do quite a bit and intend to make a full set of coloured sails next year.

When the odd sized sail appears on eBay if it is cheap enough i will buy it there is always a use for an old sail.


----------



## Barquito

I don't remember the site, however, I recall seeing a genoa off of Pyewacket (an 86' maxi sled) for sale for something like $1500. I would imagine that could be recut into a bunch of sails for a boats of my size. Kind of wonder what kind of shape you get out of a repurposed sail cut-down.


----------



## obelisk

Bacon Sails & Marine Supplies


----------



## AllThumbs

Barquito said:


> Kind of wonder what kind of shape you get out of a repurposed sail cut-down.


I doubt you would win any races, but they move you around pretty good. I try to use any "shape" built into the original sail in the new, cut down sail, so you have to think about how the original sail was built when laying out your new sail.


----------



## AllThumbs

I always wanted a new rudder to replace the slab rudder that the factory built. I started with a lamination of plywood, then built a vacuum bagger and applied 3 layers of 9 oz cloth on each side. All three of the layers on each side are wrapped around the edges, making the edges 6 layers thick. I knew without the vacuum, it would be a terrible mess trying to get the heavy cloth to go around the sharp edges.

The vacuum pump is a small fridge compressor, some hose, and a mason jar. The jar is to prevent epoxy from getting into the compressor.

So far it's working. Tomorrow we will turn off the pump and check it out.


----------



## jimgo

Very nice! Where did you get the bags?


----------



## AllThumbs

I am just using builders 6 mil vapor barrier plastic and butyl tape to seal it.


----------



## jimgo

Nice! It looked like a welded seam at first. Great idea!


----------



## AllThumbs

The pump was getting a bit hot so I put a small fan on it and it stayed luke warm. I left the pump run all night. 

Fresh out of the bag and after a little "deburring". Lots of fairing to do.


----------



## miatapaul

AllThumbs said:


> I am just using builders 6 mil vapor barrier plastic and butyl tape to seal it.


There seems to be nothing that butyl can not do!


----------



## downeast450

Nice! I have been working on a vac bag system and didn't think of an old fridge compressor. I will give it a try. I have an old freezer that is headed to the dump. Thanks!

It looks good!

Down.


----------



## reilly

*Re: Low buck projects- Let's see 'em! My cheap but working fridge*

I did the same with my p30, I used parts from a water cooler, including the thermostat on a 80 degree day box goes down to 37. Planning to operate the system with a 2kw inverter 240 watt panel to charge battery bank (500wh) will post back with results


----------



## tschmidty

Replaced my companionway boards today. Lowes carries a plastic board now that is 11 inches wide and only 5/8 inch thick so it fit really well. The board was $30. The downside is they are a little heavy, but I plan to put some spare smoked acrylic in the middle one and a vent on the top one so that should help. The bottom one probably won't come out much.

Before 









After









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## obelisk

here's a zero dollar project. i found the bucket floating by the boat and the plexiglass in the dumpster (the treasures some people throw away!!). a hot knife and a little 5200 and now, with my "lookey-bucket" i don't have to jump in the water to check my anchor or see how vibrant the reef is before snorkelling.


----------



## ReefMagnet

Seeing how there's some home made fridge compressor vacuum projects, I thought I'd share my one I made a couple of years ago to rebuild my cockpit floor.

I got the compressor out of an old fridge at home that was no longer working and following some instructions on the Internet I added a vacuum gauge and a dashpot and microswitch to make the thing switch off when vacuum was reached. During the trial run, the switch kept cutting in and out too quickly, causing the compressor to stall so I made a couple of vacuum tanks out of scrap plumbing pipe to act as a reservoir. I used builders plastic for the vacuum bag, sealed with "No more nails" glue. I used garden microspray fittings for the the hoses and connections and a rubber dent puller for the connection to the job. Taffeta was used for the "peel ply" and shade cloth for the breather fabric.

The whole contraption costs me about $30 all up - most of that being for the vacuum gauge. I found a couple of things in use. 1) The dashpot and microswitch are a waste of time. The compressor can just be made to run full time; 2) The vacuum gauge is excellent for ensuring that the bag is adequately sealed as the smallest of leaks will decrease the vacuum; 3) The compressor gets very hot. Hot enough after a few hours to start blowing smoke from the lubricating oil. I think this is not only because the compressor is running at a high duty cycle, but also because there is very little air pumping through it. Being cheap and not having a suitable fan at hand, I stuck a couple of large old computer CPU heatsinks over the dome of the compressor which sucked just enough heat away to keep the compressor happy.

Here's my setup



Finished repair:


----------



## Bob142

Using Brent Swain's idea I built a block...Instead of alluminum at $1 a pound I went for stainless at $1.80 a pound so $5.40 and the new cutting boards are only 1/4 inch thick so I bought 1 inch high density plastic...$10.00 only used 1/4 so $2.50 and stainless bolts $3.85...So all in at $11.75...


----------



## tschmidty

The link to your pic is broken. Looks good and a heck of a lot cheaper than new blocks!


----------



## NCC320

*Anchor Washdown Pump*

Anchors and rodes often come up muddy. Having a wash down pump seemed a good idea. This one consists of a Rule 500 GPH pump mounted on some PVC scraps inside a 24" x 4" PVC pipe (this size/length from Lowes), several hose clamps, old 3/4" hose, connector and elbow, 7 ft. of 3/8" nylon, one each, 15 ft. and 25 ft. outdoor power cord, fuse holder for pump, plug for 12v outlet inside boat at navigation desk, a few stainless steel screws, and 1 1/2" PVC pipe scrap with two caps. The shorter power cord is cut into two parts. One end , as shown in the picture, connects inside the PVC capsule to fuse holder and connector wire to 12V outlet on instrument panel. The other end is attached to the pump and terminates on deck. The 25 ft. cord goes in between. The pump is dropped overboard at the anchor station and secured to a stanchion with the 3/8" nylon line. When you are ready to use the pump, simply connect the power cords. These pumps don't like pumping over much height (gives much reduced flow), so if I were doing it again, I'd try the 800 gph pump if it would fit inside the large tube. Also, I may add a wand attached to the end of the hose using two 24" lengths of PVC pipe and screw-in fittings. With the hose held low to water surface, a really strong flow is available and should handle any mud accumulation. The 4" tube serves as a mandrel for the hose and the power cord and 3/8" rope are stored inside the tube, making the whole thing relatively compact (about the size of a fender) for storage. The unit can also be used as a spare bilge pump should it ever be needed and the 25 ft. power cord is available for other uses on board. The plug in unit is kept in the navigation desk.


----------



## Delezynski

NCC320 said:


> *Anchor Washdown Pump*
> 
> Anchors and rodes often come up muddy. Having a wash down pump seemed a good idea.
> 
> ..... SNIP ....
> 
> With the hose held low to water surface, a really strong flow is available and should handle any mud accumulation. The 4" tube serves as a mandrel for the hose and the power cord and 3/8" rope are stored inside the tube, making the whole thing relatively compact (about the size of a fender) for storage. The unit can also be used as a spare bilge pump should it ever be needed and the 25 ft. power cord is available for other uses on board. The plug in unit is kept in the navigation desk.


Good one NCC320,

I did something similar with an above deck wash down, but I had the space in a box on deck to mount it. See photos below.

Another big, BIG advantage is that if you travel in tropical waters in the heat of summer. We found in the Sea of Cortez, when the air temp was over 100 and the water temp was over 95, we could drop our pick-up hose deep (15 to 20 Foot) at anchor and pick up water below the thermalcline and it was like having air conditioning aboard our 27 foot boat!!!

Greg


----------



## i_amcdn

tschmidty said:


> Replaced my companionway boards today. Lowes carries a plastic board now that is 11 inches wide and only 5/8 inch thick so it fit really well. The board was $30. The downside is they are a little heavy, but I plan to put some spare smoked acrylic in the middle one and a vent on the top one so that should help. The bottom one probably won't come out much.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Any pics of how they overlap to keep water out?

Looks great.


----------



## SloopJonB

tschmidty said:


> The link to your pic is broken. Looks good and a heck of a lot cheaper than new blocks!


Nice. If you took just a little longer and sanded them down to 1200 then buffed them with a wheel they would look better than just about anything you can buy. Also filing off the markings on the bolt heads and buffing them spiffs things up that last little bit.

Custom built S/S hardware - just like the maxi boats.


----------



## Bob142

Wasn't quite a finished product..I just hung it up to check that it ran smooth and get the pictures...


----------



## Faster

What's it on, Bob? Can't imagine much on a ML48 that can get by with a 4 part tackle...


----------



## bartonio

I finally have some here. I got a lot of my ideas just by reading the things you guys have wrote.

I have updated the old counter top from my head and my nav station by using "sticky tile" from Home Depot. Under 30 dollars and it is able to be changed pretty easy and you don't even have to remove the old stuff. Just cut and stick.

I would post the pics of the new tile but the picture is apparently too large to upload.

Also shown here is a box for the chart plotter using the teak from my seats when I had to redo them after Hurricane Isaac. This was free because I refuse to waste any teak.


----------



## tschmidty

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by tschmidty View Post
> Replaced my companionway boards today. Lowes carries a plastic board now that is 11 inches wide and only 5/8 inch thick so it fit really well. The board was $30. The downside is they are a little heavy, but I plan to put some spare smoked acrylic in the middle one and a vent on the top one so that should help. The bottom one probably won't come out much.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> Any pics of how they overlap to keep water out?
> 
> Looks great.


I just beveled a 22.5 degree angle on the bottom and top. I did it with a table saw so they all fit together really tight. I thought about doing like a notch thing which would have worked find but seemed like overkill at this point.


----------



## obelisk

I was making my coffee a few mornings ago and I heard a diesel engine approaching, then a huge blue mass slide by the port window over my galley. Of course, coffee comes first, so I made a cup and then poked my head topsides to see what had just come past. It was a bristol Swan 100 and she dropped the hook next to me.

This got me thinking that I had replaced these lexan windows in 2008 and how nice it was to be able to see through them! I researched a bit on sailnet and the other boards and found people polishing lexan with great results. I grabbed some 3M stainless polish from below the sink and went to town. Only a small amount of elbow grease and a few minutes of my time and the windows were like-new. For some reason, polishing plastic had scared me a bit but I could not be more impressed with the results:


----------



## Reefpoints

Bob142 said:


> Using Brent Swain's idea I built a block...Instead of alluminum at $1 a pound I went for stainless at $1.80 a pound so $5.40 and the new cutting boards are only 1/4 inch thick so I bought 1 inch high density plastic...$10.00 only used 1/4 so $2.50 and stainless bolts $3.85...So all in at $11.75...


Bob142,

That is fantastic! Can you give some more detail as to how you made that?

Cutting and drilling the plate seems straightforward, but how did you make that roundover becket or strap at the top? Is there a way to do that without welding?

On the other side of the block, are the bolts that hold the sheaves in place just secured with a nylock nut?

If you tighten it too much, does that pinch the sheave or is there some sort of metal compression sleave around the bolt inside the sheave?

That is an amazing thing to be able to make yourself - I would really appreciate any insight as to how you did it.


----------



## Faster

Reefpoints said:


> Bob142,
> 
> That is fantastic! Can you give some more detail as to how you made that?
> 
> Cutting and drilling the plate seems straightforward, but how did you make that roundover becket or strap at the top? Is there a way to do that without welding?
> 
> On the other side of the block, are the bolts that hold the sheaves in place just secured with a nylock nut?
> 
> If you tighten it too much, does that pinch the sheave or is there some sort of metal compression sleave around the bolt inside the sheave?
> 
> That is an amazing thing to be able to make yourself - I would really appreciate any insight as to how you did it.


Not sure how Bob did it, but if I were to make one of those I'd insert a tube sleeve slightly longer than the sheave thickness, drill the sheave for the OD and run the bolt inside the tube. If the hole in the cheekplate is bolt size, the tube sleeve will prevent the 'pinching' of the sheave when you tighten the bolts.


----------



## SloopJonB

Isn't that what the "breadboard" comments were about?


----------



## Bob142

The roundover becket or stap was easy... it is a one piece unit...More wastage of material but stronger and as you bend it the edges naturally curl up...

Nylocks on the other side not as pretty as say pins with a circlip but cheaper and they don't tend to back off ...they aren't tightened down to pinch the pulley...

There is a piece of stainless pipe cut to lenght at the top and bottom bolts for spacers and the material is stiff enough that it doesn't bind...


----------



## SloopJonB

Two questions - 

What did the "breadboard" comments refer to?

Does anyone have any ides what it would cost to have the main body of a block like that cut by a waterjet.


----------



## Faster

SloopJonB said:


> Two questions -
> 
> What did the "breadboard" comments refer to?
> 
> Does anyone have any ides what it would cost to have the main body of a block like that cut by a waterjet.


Jon.. I think that referred to the idea of using a regular white 'cutting board' as source material for the sheaves... in the end he didn't because it wasn't thick enough...


----------



## SloopJonB

Aaahhh - I thought it was for spacer blocks.

I think I'd spend the $2 for real sheaves - cheaper than a lathe.


----------



## Bob142

Yes Brent used thick cutting board ...cut out with a hole saw.. put on a drill and groved with a rat tail file ...no lathe required...
I had access to a plasma cutter for the body but with extra time and effort a zip cutter and a grinding wheel will work...


----------



## AllThumbs

Want some mood lighting that doesn't look too cheesy for those warm summer evenings drinking wine in the cockpit?

Start with one of these solar garden lights. And it has to be this one. This is the only one I have seen that doesn't look like you made it from a $5 garden light (Although it does cost $5 at Canadian Tire, unless you get it on sale. Then it's $3.









Remove SS post, cut off 3/4" long plastic stud/post adapter. Make it flush if you can so it can sit on a table if desired. I used a sharp utility knife.









Drill small holes into the top of the SS cover. 180 degrees apart is good. I even made sure the square solar top was at right angles to the holes? It's the kinda guy I am I guess.









Add a copper or even SS wire, bent strategically, to hang it from. Use a clip or an S hook to hang it under the bimini or from a life line or where ever. Your friends will think you spent $40 for a fancy SS boating light.


----------



## AllThumbs

These are nice to hang around your pergola or gazebo or whatever at home too. Just make sure they can get some sun during the day.


----------



## Reefpoints

This isn't really any one particular project, but this is MUST HAVE for any quick turn low-buck projects: Instamorph (Polycaprolactone), or shapelock, friendly plastic - there are a number of brands. It is a non-toxic plastic that you can form yourself by hand. Simply place it in hot (NOT boiling) water for a few minutes and once it turns from white to clear just shape the plastic any way you want.

Need a wrench you don't have? Well, form a diy wrench in-place over the fitting with instamorph.

Google it, it's pretty amazing stuff. You can tap it and drill it (slowly), but sanding doesn't work well (it heats up and gets soft). Since you tend to form it by hand the results often don't look very good, but it is functional.

I haven't used it for much more than making a little holder to keep a specific allen wrench near a fitting that needs it often. However, it's the kind of thing I'm glad I keep on the boat in case I need something when underway and Lowes or West Marine is unreachable.

The following pics are from the web to give you an idea of what it can be use for in a pinch.


----------



## fred1diver

Reefpoints said:


> This isn't really any one particular project, but this is MUST HAVE for any quick turn low-buck projects: Instamorph (Polycaprolactone), or shapelock, friendly plastic - there are a number of brands. It is a non-toxic plastic that you can form yourself by hand. Simply place it in hot (NOT boiling) water for a few minutes and once it turns from white to clear just shape the plastic any way you want.
> 
> Need a wrench you don't have? Well, form a diy wrench in-place over the fitting with instamorph.
> 
> Google it, it's pretty amazing stuff. You can tap it and drill it (slowly), but sanding doesn't work well (it heats up and gets soft). Since you tend to form it by hand the results often don't look very good, but it is functional.
> 
> I haven't used it for much more than making a little holder to keep a specific allen wrench near a fitting that needs it often. However, it's the kind of thing I'm glad I keep on the boat in case I need something when underway and Lowes or West Marine is unreachable.
> 
> The following pics are from the web to give you an idea of what it can be use for in a pinch.


and where do get that product?????


----------



## Bene505

Instamorph

Skip to 4:50 on the video.






It's on eBay too.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## downeast450

Parts bins, tool drawers, tape storage, hardware storage. These little snap closed flat clear plastic tubs have become very useful to me. From displaying small tools in an easily accessed "drawer" to containing the parts when I am rebuilding a carb to storing butyl tape flat and clean to providing me with convenient collections of abrasives and /or an epoxy reppair kit. AND THEY STACK! Thank you Sara Lee sugar ham and turkey ham.

Down


----------



## downeast450

Shock cord hooks.

These little gems turn 1/4" shock cord into quickly adjustable, any length bungees without any knots. I buy both 1/4" shock cord and the "crab pot hooks" at a marine store that serves commercial fishermen. I shared these in a post on tarping the boat. The hook fits a grommet. The shock cord fits into a compression slot. Stretching the shock cord allows it to "snap" into the slot.

A 50 pc. bag is about $10.00. They last forever. 

Down


----------



## alechich

Nice table. I simply bought a folding table with a fake marble top that actually fits nicely in the cockpit and folds nicely into the locker.
Also had a "bimini top" made that goes over the boom, I don't normally use the main, and ties down to existing hardware. Will provide pics of both soon as I get them .


----------



## SloopJonB

Downeast - cut your shock cord with a heated blade and it won't fray like that.


----------



## downeast450

SloopJonB said:


> Downeast - cut your shock cord with a heated blade and it won't fray like that.


Yup! Most times I do, Deah! Thanks.

Down


----------



## Bene505

The pictures disappeared.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## AllThumbs

Bene505 said:


> The pictures disappeared.
> 
> Regards,
> Brad


So it seems. It seems to be a site wide problem?


----------



## Faster

AllThumbs said:


> So it seems. It seems to be a site wide problem?


It does look like all the SN hosted attachments have lost the thumbnails and the remaining links don't work. Some major 'work' was done to the site Thurs AM, this issue seems on the heels of that.

We notified admin yesterday, hopefully it's being looked at. Will follow up again.

Ron


----------



## downeast450

Parts bins, tool drawers, tape storage, hardware storage. These little snap closed flat clear plastic tubs have become very useful to me. From displaying small tools in an easily accessed "drawer" to containing the parts when I am rebuilding a carb to storing butyl tape flat and clean to providing me with convenient collections of abrasives and /or an epoxy reppair kit. AND THEY STACK! Thank you Sara Lee sugar ham and turkey ham.

Thumbs attempted again. Got this.

Internal Server Error

The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.

Please contact the server administrator, [email protected] and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error.

More information about this error may be available in the server error log.


----------



## Ferretchaser

I fixed a Volvo Penta outdrive for a guy in a liveaboard for his runabout and he had a 6 hp Evinrude that fell of the back of his boat a while back and he was going to chuck it, so I told him to throw it in my direction. Stripped it down and cleaned it up, put a new impeller in it while I was at it and it now powers my 15 foot KABOAT and the thing goes like a bat out of hell for a little motor like that. So I thought that the 4 hp compact Evinrude that I had as a loan from another person I did a couple of favors for can now go back to its owner. He told me to just keep it as he has no use or space for it. The compact is one of the rare old ones that fold up like a bike and stow real easy. Both of them are old and light 2 strokes. Nice to have a spare. 
Total investment to get them both running..17.55 $ and some elbow grease.

ATB

Michael


----------



## bljones

FC, nice score!


----------



## Multihullgirl

No-drill, easy-to-install sheet keepers: 3M Command hooks. Wipe the gelcoat in the area of interest with either acetone or denatured alcohol and install the hook as per instructions. Mine have held out for a year or so. The stretchy adhesive part does get brittle. Hold power doesn't seem to change but removal gets somewhat more difficult. Pry the receptacle part off gently and then remove the adhesive bits, wipe with acetone/alcohol, reinstall

These "cord keepers" are recent from 3M and I've changed out several hooks for these (hence the reinstallation information). The cord keepers are lower profile.


----------



## SloopJonB

I sailed a charter boat in the BVI that had something very similar to those for keeping the cockpit cushions in place.

They were shin hunters of the first order - I had scabs on mine for more than a week after we got home.


----------



## AllThumbs

Those sure are shiny new lines!


----------



## Multihullgirl

They're also dyneema cored Warpspeed. Greatest thing since sliced bread, next to the textile constrictor clutch. But neither Warpspeed nor the constrictor clutch are anything near 'low buck.'


----------



## socal c25

I bought my boat in August and I have been cleaning and fixing 44 years of neglect, I am getting very close to finishing that part of this project and then I will be back to this thread to use a bunch of these low buck mods. Keep up the posts and THANKS to ALL


----------



## socal c25

Barquito said:


> Agree with both. Also, be careful that the light doesn't actually shine through a wider, or narrower arc than it should. But, as you said, for a trailer sailer, that won't be in the dark much, probably fine. Great trick for getting lots of lights at a low cost. My house battery has been screaming at me for a few years to try such a mod.


If you lightly sand the LED's with a 600 grit paper it will defuse the directionality of the LED's and they will look more like a regular bulb also sanding wont dim the bulbs only defuse it light


----------



## AllThumbs

socal c25 said:


> If you lightly sand the LED's with a 600 grit paper it will defuse the directionality of the LED's and they will look more like a regular bulb also sanding wont dim the bulbs only defuse it light


That's a great idea to try. I need to convert a stern light to LED's yet. I'll let you know how it turns out.


----------



## TakeFive

socal c25 said:


> If you lightly sand the LED's with a 600 grit paper it will defuse the directionality of the LED's and they will look more like a regular bulb also sanding wont dim the bulbs only defuse it light


Such a great idea, wonder why the manufacturers don't do it.


----------



## differentroads

TakeFive said:


> My nice big fenders would pick up a graphite color from the black dock floats, and then transfer it to my hull as they rolled around:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fender covers are ridiculously expensive, and they just get disgusting looking anyway, so I made my own from old T-shirts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They do look like the boating equivalent of trailer trash, but they're functional and cheap enough that I'm not reluctant to change them out whenever needed.
> 
> Here's "wit and witout" as they say in South Philly:


and for long thin fenders, the legs from stretchy leggings or jogging bottoms do the job nicely.


----------



## Faster

differentroads said:


> and for long thin fenders, the legs from stretchy leggings or jogging bottoms do the job nicely.


Hockey socks from a sports consignment stores work great too!


----------



## differentroads

My local sail loft quoted £90 ($150) to clean and reproof my 3 piece sprayhood and cockpit tent. And I had pretty grimy sailcover to clean too. So I did a bit of googling and this worked out as the best diy alternative. It took me a long morning to do the whole job
1 soak all the items in a diluted antiseptic solution - Dettol in my case. 
2 scrub with a sponge (I wore 2 out, but they were just cheap ones)
3 drip dry then wash with a very mild detergent and rinse thoroughly. I took this stage indoors into the bath, treading them in bare feet, because water from the garden tap was just too damn cold for me!
4 let them drip dry. 
5 let them have a final dry in place on the boat. This is the time to also apply the reproofer. I used a commercial canvas reproofing product because I had enough in but next time I'll use a construction industry water repellent like Thompson's Waterseal - far more bangs for your buck! btw, spray can reproofers are wasteful and ineffective - brush in a liquid instead
You'll have to live with the smell of the disinfectant in the canvas for a good while. But at least it makes your boat smell sweet. I often put a squirt into my bilges where water collects from a rainwater leak that I've not cured yet, so Offbeat tends to smell like a hospital most of the time!
I have to admit sending my huge Genoa to be cleaned professionally though. I just couldn't cope with that much wet canvas in the house. So I'm open to ideas for the next time that chore comes around (which is all too often as I keep my boat in the centre of the city and everything gets grimy rather too quickly)


----------



## miatapaul

TakeFive said:


> Such a great idea, wonder why the manufacturers don't do it.


They have a very narrow beam of light by nature, but they also advertize and price there LEDs based on brightness. I imagine the brightness reads brighter on a meter when it has a narrow beam because more of the light hits the meter sensor. One of the reasons they have so many "cold" lights, as they will rate as brighter on a meter. It is part of the numbers game they play.


----------



## SloopJonB

differentroads said:


> My local sail loft quoted £90 ($150) to clean and reproof my 3 piece sprayhood and cockpit tent. And I had pretty grimy sailcover to clean too. So I did a bit of googling and this worked out as the best diy alternative. It took me a long morning to do the whole job
> 1 soak all the items in a diluted antiseptic solution - Dettol in my case.
> 2 scrub with a sponge (I wore 2 out, but they were just cheap ones)
> 3 drip dry then wash with a very mild detergent and rinse thoroughly. I took this stage indoors into the bath, treading them in bare feet, because water from the garden tap was just too damn cold for me!
> 4 let them drip dry.
> 5 let them have a final dry in place on the boat. This is the time to also apply the reproofer. I used a commercial canvas reproofing product because I had enough in but next time I'll use a construction industry water repellent like Thompson's Waterseal - far more bangs for your buck! btw, spray can reproofers are wasteful and ineffective - brush in a liquid instead
> You'll have to live with the smell of the disinfectant in the canvas for a good while. But at least it makes your boat smell sweet. I often put a squirt into my bilges where water collects from a rainwater leak that I've not cured yet, so Offbeat tends to smell like a hospital most of the time!
> I have to admit sending my huge Genoa to be cleaned professionally though. I just couldn't cope with that much wet canvas in the house. So I'm open to ideas for the next time that chore comes around (which is all too often as I keep my boat in the centre of the city and everything gets grimy rather too quickly)


I just had my main cleaned by a pro. It only cost $80 and was well worth it. Getting more years out of stuff that's priced in the 4 figure range is worth spending a few $$ I think.


----------



## deniseO30

this really is low buck since the beech lumber was free. I have less then a $100 in hardware including the tail vise slide that was on sale for $55. 
More pics here;
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/off-topic/104786-roubo-bench-build-3.html#post1204401


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## SloopJonB

Denise, I could really learn to hate you! 

That thing is freakin' gorgeous - you are a true crafts"person".


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## Rhapsody-NS27

Very nice. I could use a good workshop table like that.

Well done! 



deniseO30 said:


> this really is low buck since the beech lumber was free. I have less then a $100 in hardware including the tail vise slide that was on sale for $55.
> More pics here;
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/off-topic/104786-roubo-bench-build-3.html#post1204401


----------



## deniseO30

Thank you everyone, yes it came out pretty nice, hard to believe it's going to be "trashed" with all kinds of woodworking projects upon it as time goes by.

This was "free" Laun boards and ply. it fits the top of the stove in my boat. 
can't see them, the dovetail keyed corners.


----------



## TakeFive

Wow, Denise, your workmanship looks great! I guess you do a lot more than bend sheet metal!


----------



## redbaron

awesome thread nothing to add yet till i get my dream boat


----------



## Delta-T

Nothing like a shower...Engine water heat exchanger. I think Jeep makes one like this. That is where I got the idea. I would assume this would work better with a sealer engine cooling system. Mine is raw water (salt in my case) and has been in use with no issues for over 12 years. I'm not looking to have a hot shower, but just to temper the tank water. *Be very careful, the water can start off scolding hot!* I would suggest adding a mixing valve to add cold water and adding a more even temp. and longer run time.

I ran the hot water to a hand held sink type spray head I keep coiled up in the Port Lazarette. Can also be used to wash down the cockpit. Or two birds with one stone.









What this plan does not point out is a 2 1/2" to 3/4" reducer on both ends.









And that would be my rebuilt Graymarine Sea Scoot 91 engine in that pic. Did that myself. Love to keep the original if possible.


----------



## Delta-T

PVC winter tarp frame:
No screws, no metal hardware or sharp edges to rip covering, nothing but rope and PVC (boat friendly), easy to set up and easy to store and open inside space for working. Can be made taller or shorter for your needs.










With the pitched short roof snow was not an issue so no structural ridge beam is needed, as long as there is no roof load. You can also use a 90 deg. elbow at the to ridge to get more pitch, but you will then have to tie center rope off to mast to keep for side to side movement or add interior rope gussets. And if in doubt, add a rope from the 45 deg elbow to the other 45 deg elbow on each frame section.


----------



## SloopJonB

Delta-T said:


> Nothing like a shower...Engine water heat exchanger. I think Jeep makes one like this. That is where I got the idea. I would assume this would work better with a sealer engine cooling system. Mine is raw water (salt in my case) and has been in use with no issues for over 12 years. I'm not looking to have a hot shower, but just to temper the tank water. *Be very careful, the water can start off scolding hot!* I would suggest adding a mixing valve to add cold water and adding a more even temp. and longer run time.
> 
> I ran the hot water to a hand held sink type spray head I keep coiled up in the Port Lazarette. Can also be used to wash down the cockpit. Or two birds with one stone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What this plan does not point out is a 2 1/2" to 3/4" reducer on both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that would be my rebuilt Graymarine Sea Scoot 91 engine in that pic. Did that myself. Love to keep the original if possible.


Put another one of those on it and run engine coolant through it - your engine will love you for it.


----------



## White Knight

Delta T--How have you attached the PVC pipe to your hull?--I think your idea is great so thanks for posting-Chris-New Zealand-Herreshoff 38' Leaboard Ketch


----------



## mitiempo

The easiest solution would be to use the stanchions for mounting. They are vertical and already in place. I have done this in the past and it works well.


----------



## SloopJonB

I bent a set of stanchions doing that.


----------



## mitiempo

When I did it I didn't have to bend the pvc tubing that much. There was very little bending force on my stanchions. Survived two winters without a problem. Also the tarp is not stressed this way, not like a tarp that is stretched by itself over the boom.


----------



## Delta-T

This PVC frame I did build for sailing purpose, but not for covering the boat. I just adapted it for covering a boat for you all. I really don't advocate covering boats, but if you have to cover, it should be an easy good design, so I though I would share. I can not find the pictures of when I had it set up, 60' long, in my back yard, to recondition my mast. Winter project. I now use some of the frames to hole netting up over the coy pond.

To attach the frame I would lash to the outside of the stanchion base only, or if you have a toe rail that has holes in it, and on the outside of life line. Stanchions and life line will be inside the cover and should clear the life line and not touch them. Tarp should be tight enough so no snow or water can not accumulate on top. And when you attach the beam rope tighten it down to squat the frame bending the frame to bow it around. This will give it spring and hold it tight and will not allow for much side to side movement. If you make the top two PVC pipe longer to make the frame wide enough to clear the life line and stanchions, then bend them in (this will work fine too), you will need to add gusset ropes inside from the side 45 deg elbows across to the base of the frame to keep cover from swaying. Tying off to the mast will eliminate most swaying and or planing to use the boom just under the frame will work too.

If you would like me to show these options in plan form, I will be happy to do so.

Think spring!
Eric


----------



## HUGOSALT

I made a similiar frame from pvc years ago and its still going strong. If it will help, several points that have worked well on my frame...I drilled 2 holes in pvc center ridge about every three feet
for 3/4" ribs which pass though center ridge and connected 2 pieces of the 3/4"
rib material as needed then cut to desired size , they fit into holes in pvc that run along
(inside) port and starboard toe rails.(ribs and all numbered) This creates tension that works well and can be carried all the way back to the stern. Another big help is using plastic ties to hold things in place when setting up and from wind, come spring they cut off real easy. 
Pretty strong, stands up to wind and snow.
Hope this helps.... Hugo 
Thumbnails 

Above post was from prev. thread.... but the pictures just wouldn't travel with copied text. If any interest in pictures they are on thread titled...
"I just don't get it. Winter storage " 2/16/2011 post # 31....frame is really a thing of beauty.
Sorry but when it comes to sailnet and pictures "I just don't get it!"


----------



## White Knight

Thanks Eric and others for the input on mounting the frame to hull-Chris


----------



## trkarl

HUGOSALT said:


> I made a similiar frame from pvc years ago and its still going strong. If it will help, several points that have worked well on my frame...I drilled 2 holes in pvc center ridge about every three feet
> for 3/4" ribs which pass though center ridge and connected 2 pieces of the 3/4"
> rib material as needed then cut to desired size , they fit into holes in pvc that run along
> (inside) port and starboard toe rails.(ribs and all numbered) This creates tension that works well and can be carried all the way back to the stern. Another big help is using plastic ties to hold things in place when setting up and from wind, come spring they cut off real easy.
> Pretty strong, stands up to wind and snow.
> Hope this helps.... Hugo
> 
> Thumbnails





I copied the entire post from the other thread because there are some really good ideas here! And, it took me a while to find the damned thread for some reason. linky

Thanks Hugo! BTW, you can get the images by hitting the quote button on the post, then copying the code.


----------



## Delta-T

The problem with any flat top, is snow is going to accumulate. There is no need for structural ridge beam. If you think that will hold snow or any cover can, good luck with that.

And keep in mind this is a low buck project...under $100. 5 or 6 frames of my design (for a 32' boat) and about $10 each frame and 3 3/8"x100' rope from Walmart for $5 each. Project is frame only, no tarp cost. Project is not how to cover, but how to build a cheap frame that will hold up.


----------



## White Knight

Looking at these frame designs I cannot see how/if the tarp is attached to the frame at any point.Can someone enlighten me on this subject please.In New Zealand we do not have a snow problem per sec,my interest lies in building a frame to cover a boat when out of the water for major refurbish.-Thanks-Chris


----------



## mitiempo

When I did this the tarp wasn't attached to the frame. It was attached to the toerail with cord and/or bungees, just using the frame for support. That is the advantage of this as there is less strain on the tarp. When the tarp is just over the boom as many do it has to be tight and wears out a lot faster.


----------



## Faster

mitiempo said:


> ...When the tarp is just over the boom as many do it has to be tight and wears out a lot faster.


.. and when the sail and cover are left on, just as hard on the sailcover too!


----------



## White Knight

Thanks again guys-all clear now-good tip on the wear factor too-Chris


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

Refinished tiller.

The only thing I had to buy for this project was some low density filler to add to some epoxy. So I spent around $14 just for this project. Sandpaper, varnish, mineral spirits, scraper, were already on hand.

The handle end of my tiller had split apart and varnish had failed so it was not looking very good. I had to remove a couple small dowel rods by the handle, scrape off the old varnish, filled the split with epoxy, then sanded with 80 grit, to 100 and 220. Between coats of varnish, I used 220 to rough it up for the next coat. The varnish I used is Epifanes Gloss Clear that I have used previously on a couple handrails.

Here's some pictures of this project.




















__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content














































Larger pictures can be found on the write up I did for my blog: Rhapsody: Tiller Time

I really like how it came out. I'm looking forward to how it will look back on the boat this next season.


----------



## Delezynski

Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> Refinished tiller.
> 
> The only thing I had to buy for this project was some low density filler to add to some epoxy. So I spent around $14 just for this project. Sandpaper, varnish, mineral spirits, scraper, were already on hand.
> <Snip>
> I really like how it came out. I'm looking forward to how it will look back on the boat this next season.


NICE JOB!!! LOOKS GREAT.

Greg


----------



## randyrhines

AllThumbs said:


> Nice table bljones. It looks like it belongs.


I still can't remember if you owe me money , but I like the table, my compliments captain.........


----------



## randyrhines

But I'm pretty sure it you that took the last beer......


----------



## ericb760

This is my newest "on the cheap" project. I bought a case (10 piece) of outdoor eucalyptus tiles. I had to trim the last two to fit around the base of the tiller. This was the dry fit and they work perfectly. Now I have to trim the tabs off the sides. I paid $50.00 on Amazon. I don't expect that these will last for years and years, but, it beats $500 for a custom made teak sole...


----------



## ericb760

Here's my second Low Buck project that I completed recently. When I bought the boat it had smoked plexiglass drop boards that really didn't fit the design of a classic boat. So, I purchased some furniture grade plywood and cut them using the old boards as a template. After sanding, staining, and four coats of marine varinish, at a cost of around $30, I had new drop boards!


----------



## Ritchard

ericb760 said:


> View attachment 17570
> 
> 
> View attachment 17578
> 
> Here's my second Low Buck project that I completed recently. When I bought the boat it had smoked plexiglass drop boards that really didn't fit the design of a classic boat. So, I purchased some furniture grade plywood and cut them using the old boards as a template. After sanding, staining, and four coats of marine varinish, at a cost of around $30, I had new drop boards!


Oddly, I did the inverse of that, I made a plexi drop board to allow more light into my old boat. Man, is Plexiglass ever expensive. Yours look great. A word of advice, pay careful attention to the edges of the plywood. If the finish gets worn enough to allow moisture in, your plywood will delaminate. You may want to put a fresh coat on the edges each year. For more protection, you could remove the varnish on the edge and do a coat of epoxy, then cover with varnish. It will then be much more impervious.


----------



## ericb760

Ritchard said:


> Oddly, I did the inverse of that, I made a plexi drop board to allow more light into my old boat. Man, is Plexiglass ever expensive. Yours look great. A word of advice, pay careful attention to the edges of the plywood. If the finish gets worn enough to allow moisture in, your plywood will delaminate. You may want to put a fresh coat on the edges each year. For more protection, you could remove the varnish on the edge and do a coat of epoxy, then cover with varnish. It will then be much more impervious.


I'll definitely keep that in mind. Of course, I could have bought marine grade plywood with a teak veneer, but then that would not have qualified as "Low Bucks"!


----------



## SloopJonB

The best treatment for "outdoor" edges on ply is to trim them back a smidge and edge them with solid hardwood.

Makes a much better "running" surface for them to slide on as well.


----------



## ericb760

SloopJonB said:


> The best treatment for "outdoor" edges on ply is to trim them back a smidge and edge them with solid hardwood.
> 
> Makes a much better "running" surface for them to slide on as well.


I don't think I have the skill, or the tools, to do that. My workspace is an apartment balcony and a set of Ryobi rechargeable tools...


----------



## bristol299bob

*Dehumidifer with large reservoir*

I bought one of those peltier dehumidifiers to keep the moisture at bay when I am away from the boat. I live in NC, so ... well .. it can get humid.






This one has a removable tank and an auto shutoff when the tank is full. It holds a few cups of water ... less than a quart.

But I found that, in the summer, the unit could fill that little tank in less than a week. I decided to modify the thing with larger capacity but still retain the auto off feature.

I ordered 2 of these: 





A plastic storage box with lid ($10 at target)

A timer ($5 at target)

and a 4" piece of scrap 1/2 PVC.

It can easily run for weeks on end without filling up the tank, and the shut off feature is retained. The container has tight lid so the moisture removed does not return to the cabin. It significantly increases the amount of moisture the humidifier can remove. Now I can rest assured that the little humidifier is doing its job even when I am away from the boat for 2 or 3 weeks at a time (which sadly I am sometimes)










used a forstner bit to drill the hole, though its probably not the best choice for plastic. (it's what I had)


----------



## miatapaul

*Re: Dehumidifer with large reservoir*



bristol299bob said:


> I bought one of those peltier dehumidifiers to keep the moisture at bay when I am away from the boat. I live in NC, so ... well .. it can get humid.
> 
> Amazon.com - Bionaire BDQ01-UC Mini Dehumidifier - Mini Dehumidifers
> 
> This one has a removable tank and an auto shutoff when the tank is full. It holds a few cups of water ... less than a quart.
> 
> But I found that, in the summer, the unit could fill that little tank in less than a week. I decided to modify the thing with larger capacity but still retain the auto off feature.
> 
> I ordered 2 of these:
> Amazon.com: 1/2'' UNISEAL Flexible Tank Adapter (bulkhead): Pet Supplies
> 
> A plastic storage box with lid ($10 at target)
> 
> A timer ($5 at target)
> 
> and a 4" piece of scrap 1/2 PVC.
> 
> It can easily run for weeks on end without filling up the tank, and the shut off feature is retained. The container has tight lid so the moisture removed does not return to the cabin. It significantly increases the amount of moisture the humidifier can remove. Now I can rest assured that the little humidifier is doing its job even when I am away from the boat for 2 or 3 weeks at a time (which sadly I am sometimes)


Impressive work, but why not just run a hose to a sink drain? Then it can pull out lots and lots of water.


----------



## bristol299bob

> Impressive work, but why not just run a hose to a sink drain? Then it can pull 
> out lots and lots of water.

I close all below waterline seacocks, including sink drains, when I leave the boat. That was my motivation behind increasing the capacity (guess I should have mentioned that important detail)


----------



## Andrew65

I think this is a low buck project because it is replacing my inboard engine. I made a yuloh. The inboard had too many issues that would of taken too much time and money to repair. I am putting it in low buck thread to response to several guys in barefootnavigator`s thread about living on $500 a month, but didn`t want to disturb his thread. He has also made a yuloh and there were others that started asking about it and if there was someone who had information about it. It took me $300 in material, 2 years of research, emails, web searching, building, experimenting, and re-building to build mine, so here is my 2 cents. I`ll get pictures out as soon as I get my lazy a$$ off the couch.
I know there are those that would rather have oars and if they work for you, great. This isn`t an argument for either or. They are better for close quarters manuevering , lighter displacement boats, or crewed boats, but my need is for long distance with the minimum of ease, singlehanded, on a heavy displacement boat.
Several sources of information were used courtesy of the internet. What a great invention…sometimes.
Slieve who runs the junkrigassociation.org wrote an indepth and excellent article titled “Some Thoughts on the Yuloh” analyzing it. It is found on his sight or just by googling “Slieve yuloh”. He admits to never have built one, but he is spot on in his thoughts and very helpful to answer any questions by email. 
Ben Fuller on woodenboat forum and a handful of other members were also helpful as a sounding board. Ben`s description of the yuloh is that it is like low gear in a truck. Slow, but strong to move a big load. Yuloh in their search window will give you a lot to read.
Another good start to make the size can be found both with Slieve and within Larry Pardey`s book “The Self Sufficient Sailor”. He states that it isn`t really a matter of length of the boat, but of the freeboard height. I used his book suggestions because our boats are 95% similar in dimension. I first had a oar like his, but to impart the twist needed over a long distance wore me the HE// out, so I started to look for better ways.
Of course youtube has a load of videos, but you have to search for “Yuloh, Zhujiajiao,China” to get an original view. Don`t rely on the many western copies also found on youtube. They are just hybreds anyway. The Chinese videos are the ones to watch over and over and over and over and over and over again and again and again. Watching different ones gives clues into different details one video has over the others. A key point to look for is the pivot point between boat and yuloh. You`ll figure it out.
Lastly as luck or providence would have it, I found ($3 in a fleamarket) G.R.G Worcester `s book “The Junks & Sampans of the Yangtze”. It`s a fascinating book in and of itself, but for me it had many .examples, tips and tricks of the yuloh in action back in the day and life of a chinese waterman. That is a cool book for reference. If you can get a copy, it`s worth it, but not necessary to have to build one.
In the end, after measuring once and cutting twice with a lot of cohogitating, I have a yuloh I am confident in even though I think its 30cm too long in its shaft and slightly over built, but better overbuilt than underbuilt. Sound all this like overkill to you? Maybe, but that`s what makes it fun messing about in boats.


----------



## ericb760

I really look forward to pictures, maybe even a short video? My boat is 24' but I have a dedicated engine well that would have me standing no closer than two feet from the back edge of the transom. I'm not sure if a Yuloh is feasible...


----------



## Multihullgirl

Somewhere, if I recall, in this list of links, are some yuloh resources&#8230;

The Mother of All Maritime Links: Page 1 of 47

Yuloh linx
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/1305138-post33.html

http://www.simplicityboats.com/yulohpage.html


----------



## Tim R.

Custom cutting board/backsplash for the sink/stove.

Custom Cutting Board - TKRonaBoat


----------



## SloopJonB

Nice. Triple duty pieces - I like that.

You better never lay your spreaders in the water, or worse with that armoury loaded beside the sink - the cabin would look like a dartboard.


----------



## Tim R.

SloopJonB said:


> Nice. Triple duty pieces - I like that.
> 
> You better never lay your spreaders in the water, or worse with that armoury loaded beside the sink - the cabin would look like a dartboard.


LOL. Good pickup Jon but if you look closely you will see that the knife block uses a clamp onto the SS pole. It gets put in a cabinet when sailing in less than ideal conditions.


----------



## slax

so.. noticed the other day that the bilge pump hadn't fired on in a while. We haven't had much rain, and I have a fairly deep keel so there's lots of room, but definitely was past the acceptable level.. wired up the spare to clear the space out.. done. Ok so seems there was a rule auto sense in place that had fallen apart.. ok, she's old, I can see/expect it. project that came from it, new bilge pump with a digital sensor wired into 3 position switch.. ON/AUTO/OFF. Thinking about wiring both the primary and backup to the on post, but at the moment I have a digital sensor, working and tested, with a new rule 1000 unit.

Amazon.com: RULE 1000 GPH NON AUTOMATIC SQUARE BILGE PUMP 1-1/8 OUT: Sports & [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/316w0CJ7N%[email protected]@[email protected]@316w0CJ7N%2BL

Amazon.com: Attwood Digital Bilge Switch, 12 Volt: Sports & [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@31yXZ8Kg-cL

some solder/heat-shrink/connectors and 3 sets of waterproof gel caps I scored a box of for $2 at recycle (habitat for humanity hw store)

its semi finished (as in the switch is not mounted atm, because I am remodeling the nav/control area)

which, if I stay on track with will be another <$100 project, lots of scrapping/salvaging and the fact that I am a NERD with a backstock of electronics gear always help keep the costs down. which is nice when it comes time to do something I can't avoid paying the high price of (thinking engine/haul-out stuff)


----------



## Lubrdink

We covered over our cockpit sole with a teak flooring product we got off of amazon. They were 12"x12" plastic interlocking bases with teak strips on top. I had to trim the edges a bit to make them fit. They also sit up off the cockpit sole enough water can run underneath to the drains. We did it because the cockpit sole had broken down and gotten water into the core. We cut the top layer of glass off, replaced the core, and re-glassed it. It was our first glass attempt and was, while solid, BUTT UGLY and had to be covered. This was a cheap, workable floor and removable to clean if necessary. I think under $100 and we had a few tiles leftover to donate to a friend.








And here's what it looked like before after some primer-EAAAAAAAAA!!!!!


----------



## slax

heh.. second project today, this one completely derrived from this thread.. did 2 x 4"x24" pvc propane holders..

1 - 10'x4" pvc conduit $35
2 - 4" pvc caps $4
2 - 4" cap to female thread $5
2 - 4" threaded plug $4
4 - 6" ring clamps $2
1 - set purple/epoxy combo $12

Total Cost = $81. remaining material = $20 of that...  yahhoooowiii.. thanks to this thread. awesomesauce.


----------



## ericb760

Lubrdink said:


> We covered over our cockpit sole with a teak flooring product we got off of amazon. They were 12"x12" plastic interlocking bases with teak strips on top. I had to trim the edges a bit to make them fit. They also sit up off the cockpit sole enough water can run underneath to the drains. We did it because the cockpit sole had broken down and gotten water into the core. We cut the top layer of glass off, replaced the core, and re-glassed it. It was our first glass attempt and was, while solid, BUTT UGLY and had to be covered. This was a cheap, workable floor and removable to clean if necessary. I think under $100 and we had a few tiles leftover to donate to a friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what it looked like before after some primer-EAAAAAAAAA!!!!!


I did the same thing, except I ran them lengthwise and I had to trim them around the tiller base like it looks like you had to do also. Looks great and works great!


----------



## erps

So they've made fuel jerry cans so safe here in the states that they're hard to use.



Around ten years ago or so, they started making the fill spouts so you could flop them over and store them inside the can with a little plug to keep the fuel from leaking. That would be the fuel can on the right with the little yellow stopper. Of course everyone started losing the stoppers, so after a few years, all those fuel cans looked like the one in the middle with a piece of oil absorbant bilge cloth stuffed down the spout. If you hang around commercial fishermen, you'll see these little fire bombs all over the place. So then a couple years ago, they made the fuel spouts even safer. That would be the spout on the left. At his point in their evolution I've about given up. What a pain in the @$$.

Jerry cans missing the plugs are a dime a dozen down here. Some folks throw them away. I'm starting to get quite a collection. So today I took a hunk of UHMW material and chucked in the lathe to see if I could make a new spout. I cut it down to fit under the existing cap. I tried it out today by putting it in and turning the fuel can upside down. No leak. So I'm waiting to see what's the biggest flexible rubber hose that I can hose clamp onto the nipple and then cut the nipple to that size and bore it out. My plan is to carry this nipple and cap and then secure it to existing jerry cans with crumby spouts. I'm going to cut a few round discs to act as plugs for any jerry cans that I acquire with missing plugs. I'm trying to come up with a collection of four matching jerry cans for our extended cruise in a year or two.

Machined preliminary spout waiting for final dimensions for spout hose:


----------



## slax

nice project.. those jerry cans are getting horrendous.. something decent worth putting cycles into that most sailors, boaters, recreational vehicle, etcc users would love.. an alternative but still approved aftermarket spout.. cause its really really hard to not spill fuel with the new ones. even on the vw, it doesnt catch right to stay open. have to jam it there or hold it.. bah, safer my asssssss


----------



## TakeFive

erps said:


> So they've made fuel jerry cans so safe here in the states that they're hard to use.
> 
> 
> 
> ...So then a couple years ago, they made the fuel spouts even safer. That would be the spout on the left....


FYI, the one on the left has been the subject of several very expensive lawsuits due to faulty design. The spout does not have a flame arrestor, so if you get a spark (or pour it on a fire, which you should NEVER do), the flash will work its way up into the can. So I would be hesitant to call it a safer design.

I have a couple of them, and I find them easy to use because you can release the spout to cut off the flow, resulting in a dripless transfer. But the lack of flame arrestor is always on my mind, and it concerns me.


----------



## SloopJonB

I kind of like the Molotov can in the middle.


----------



## erps

I ended up going with a 1 inch hose, 2 feet long. That way I can get it in the hole before I tip the can. The hose was tight enough on the nipple that I don't think I'll need a hose clamp


----------



## TakeFive

erps said:


> I ended up going with a 1 inch hose, 2 feet long. That way I can get it in the hole before I tip the can. The hose was tight enough on the nipple that I don't think I'll need a hose clamp...


Is that hose designed to transfer gasoline? There are two things I would be concerned about: #1 is solvent resistance. You don't want to end up dissolving away the hose over time. #2 is conductivity of the hose. If it is a dielectric material, you may find static buildup could cause a flash fire, which could be extremely hazardous, especially since your can lacks a flame arrestor.


----------



## SloopJonB

Hey, you're talking to a guy who has a WICK in one of his cans.


----------



## Barquito

slax said:


> View attachment 18721
> heh.. second project today, this one completely derrived from this thread.. did 2 x 4"x24" pvc propane holders..
> 
> 1 - 10'x4" pvc conduit $35
> 2 - 4" pvc caps $4
> 2 - 4" cap to female thread $5
> 2 - 4" threaded plug $4
> 4 - 6" ring clamps $2
> 1 - set purple/epoxy combo $12
> 
> Total Cost = $81. remaining material = $20 of that...  yahhoooowiii.. thanks to this thread. awesomesauce.


Slax - 
I would consider drilling a hole in the bottom cap (to drain any escaped gas), then mounting them on the other side of the stern rail so they hang over the water. Then any potential gas will go over the side rather than cascading onto the deck.


----------



## Delezynski

We like our wine with dinner aboard Guenevere. The storage we use is not in our bilge as it's to thin in most of it for the bottles, so we use a storage compartment under the V birth.

We all know to store the bottles in socks (Jill insists on ONLY NEW socks!  )

BUT, it is often dark in that compartment and choosing a wine can be a chore. Sooo......

I bought some white socks ($5.00 +/-) and dyed (Rit at $2.70) a few of them red. We now use the red socks for red whine or white ones for the white whine. It's EASY now to find a nice Zin for that dinner! 

Greg


----------



## Markwesti

This is a little bracket that can be removed . I have my GPS on it but you can put anything you want . First it is on my cockpit bulkhead right in front of the tiller . It can be quick removed , just spin the wing nut . I hope you can see from the pics it's mounting function , a fixed lip on the "L" bracket and a movable lip/with slot and said wing nut. This little mount is not limited to a port light . At first I was going to put it on the companion way slide rail but settled on the bulkhead. Hope you like it!


----------



## SloopJonB

Having it sit in the bronze port is way cool - much nicer than those swingaway setups that sit in the companionway. 

Are you aware you can buy various types of knobs & thumbwheels at good tools stores for very cheap? Would make a tidy replacement for the wingnut.


----------



## Markwesti

Hi, Mr.B , thank you for the reply. Because my boat is kind of old and and funky , I like wingnuts . Truth be told I'm a right hand Wing Nut . But the Wing Nut in the pic is a left hand Wing Nut . Go figure .


----------



## rhr1956

Markwesti said:


> Hi, Mr.B , thank you for the reply. Because my boat is kind of old and and funky , I like wingnuts . Truth be told I'm a right hand Wing Nut . But the Wing Nut in the pic is a left hand Wing Nut . Go figure .


I'm a right hand wing nut too. Stand by for bljones comment.


----------



## bljones

rhr1956 said:


> I'm a right hand wing nut too. Stand by for bljones comment.


 *rimshot*


----------



## This Old Sailboat

I built and installed this today. Total cost was $12.99 since I had a spare turnbuckle. Insurance against pulling up the stem plate, priceless for $tingy Sailor.










To read the full description, visit my blog at the address in my signature. It'll be the latest post for a while.


----------



## Barquito

$tingy - Love your blog. Keep it up. C22 is perfect vehicle for these projects.


----------



## TakeFive

This Old Sailboat said:


> I built and installed this today. Total cost was $12.99 since I had a spare turnbuckle. Insurance against pulling up the stem plate, priceless for $tingy Sailor.
> 
> To read the full description, visit my blog at the address in my signature. It'll be the latest post for a while.


Is there a reason you opted against this?



[EDIT: Oops, never mind, I see on Catalina Direct that yours is a much easier install.]


----------



## AllThumbs

This Old Sailboat said:


> I built and installed this today. Total cost was $12.99 since I had a spare turnbuckle. Insurance against pulling up the stem plate, priceless for $tingy Sailor.
> 
> To read the full description, visit my blog at the address in my signature. It'll be the latest post for a while.


Cool blog but really annoying to read. Because the scrolling pictures on the top are all different sizes, the text keeps moving up and down as the pictures change. At least on my browser.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

Barquito,
Thanks. The blog gives me more options than putting the info here and is a good way to put it all in one place for posterity. The best is yet to come. 

AllThumbs,
I'll look into it. What browser and version are you using? The slideshow shouldn't affect your reading and it certainly doesn't do that for me.


----------



## Barquito

I had the same problem from the Home page. I think there was another page with your projects that didn't have the slide show that didn't bounce around. I use the latest Firefox.


----------



## SloopJonB

I use Firefox and it jumps around a bit for me. Good blog - that Iron Out is a good tip - I'll have to get some.

Autosol is a better metal polish than Flitz. It's a cream and has always done very well for me. Buy the can though, not the tube.

It's pretty expensive as well but worth it IMO.


----------



## therapy23

Thread drift warning......

From the blog site - This Old Sailboat.

"I keep a bottle of it around to treat our water softener for iron oxide buildup."

How do you get it into the softener?
How do you know where it goes in the softener?
How long do you leave it?
How do you flush it?
Etc.

Thanks.

PS. Using Chrome reading is hard due to the jumping around as mentioned earlier.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

Thanks for the browser input, guys. The Wordpress theme that I use is "responsive," meaning it will adapt the page layout to fit the browser window. The pics in the slideshow might not all be the same size, which could cause the page to readjust with each slide. This might only be happening with certain browsers or screen resolutions. I'll try to reproduce it here.

Therapy23,
The Iron Out in the softener was recommended by the guy that installed our softener (I must confess that I didn't install it myself). I put it in the salt pellet tank, one capful on top of each bag of pellets when I add them. It dissolves in the brine that regenerates the media and gets flushed out when the media is rinsed. Makes a big difference with our water, which has very high iron content. No rust stains in the sinks, toilets, etc. and no buildup in the water heater and plumbing.


----------



## AllThumbs

I use latest firefox. Just checked with IE and it's the same thing. I suggest you resize all the pictures to make them all the same.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

All,

It should be fixed now. They weren't all the same size and orientation. Sorry for the inconvenience.

$S


----------



## Reefpoints

*Low buck chartplotter!*

Ok, the low-buck project is really just a wooden tablet holder that turns my tablet into a chartplotter (EarthNC marine charts works really well on Android).


























For about $20 in red oak from Lowes/HD you can make this: 
1) 4' length of nominal 1x2 for the "L" brackets (or 1x3 if your tablet has a thick case around it)
2) 2' length of actual 0.5" x 6"

Steps
1. measure and cut the back plate, I made mine 1/8" longer than the longest dimension of the tablet - this allows it to slide in and out handily and yet be snug enough not to fall out unexpectedly. For the other dimension I made mine 3/4 higher than the tablet width.
2. Using a router table or table saw, turn the 1x2 into an L-bracket. Cut out a depth of 3/8" (approx half the 1x2 depth), up to 3/8" from the edge. 
3. Cut that L bracket into 3 pieces, to fit the sides and bottom of the backplate.
4. Using Titebond III wood glue, glue and clamp the longest piece to the backplate. Make sure the L bracket forms a retaining lip in front of the plate.
5. After that has dried for 12+ hours, clamp and glue the side L brackets forming a retaining lip around 3 sides of the backplate.
6. Drill holes through the side to allow the charging cable to reach the tablet
7. Using forstner bits, drill a "keyhole" to securely hang the holder on a screw mounted in the bulkhead.
8. Sand and varnish.

If you have any questions let me know.


----------



## bljones

Some great stuff from some new contributors! Thanks for the input, folks!
Hey, TOS, nice blog. You link this thread, on your "best of the rest" page, but don't link my blog? Why, I oughtta...


----------



## This Old Sailboat

You oughtta...say something, which you did, so it's done! I think I visited your blog briefly recently and clicked through to another but hadn't yet come back to explore yours more. Good writing! I need to spend some more time there. How much traffic do you get? Keep it up.

Follow my blog at stingysailor.wordpress.com


----------



## TakeFive

*Re: Low buck chartplotter!*



Reefpoints said:


> Ok, the low-buck project is really just a wooden tablet holder that turns my tablet into a chartplotter (EarthNC marine charts works really well on Android).
> 
> For about $20 in red oak from Lowes/HD you can make this:
> 1) 4' length of nominal 1x2 for the "L" brackets (or 1x3 if your tablet has a thick case around it)
> 2) 2' length of actual 0.5" x 6"
> 
> Steps
> 1. measure and cut the back plate, I made mine 1/8" longer than the longest dimension of the tablet - this allows it to slide in and out handily and yet be snug enough not to fall out unexpectedly. For the other dimension I made mine 3/4 higher than the tablet width.
> 2. Using a router table or table saw, turn the 1x2 into an L-bracket. Cut out a depth of 3/8" (approx half the 1x2 depth), up to 3/8" from the edge.
> 3. Cut that L bracket into 3 pieces, to fit the sides and bottom of the backplate.
> 4. Using Titebond III wood glue, glue and clamp the longest piece to the backplate. Make sure the L bracket forms a retaining lip in front of the plate.
> 5. After that has dried for 12+ hours, clamp and glue the side L brackets forming a retaining lip around 3 sides of the backplate.
> 6. Drill holes through the side to allow the charging cable to reach the tablet
> 7. Using forstner bits, drill a "keyhole" to securely hang the holder on a screw mounted in the bulkhead.
> 8. Sand and varnish.
> 
> If you have any questions let me know.


Beautiful work! I hope it holds up. Red oak is not the best choice for a marine environment. I learned a little about the different wood types when I redid my cabin table.


----------



## vtsailguy

Not sure why I haven't seen them before:

$15 for white PVC pipes to cover turnbuckles.


----------



## Reefpoints

*Re: Low buck chartplotter!*



TakeFive said:


> Beautiful work! I hope it holds up. Red oak is not the best choice for a marine environment. I learned a little about the different wood types when I redid my cabin table.


Thank you! Yeah, red oak is exceedingly porous and therefore not a great marine lumber. You can actually blow air throw 1" of endgrain wood.. For this tablet holder project though, you could even use pine. I like the red oak b/c it is a cheap and available hardwood.

As long as it is varnished, it will work fine. I made one very similar for my phone a year ago - it still looks good after a year of use. It only gets use while sailing, I put it down below when I'm in the slip.


----------



## Robbyn

bljones said:


> In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
> Here's the rules:
> 
> 1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.
> 
> 2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.
> 
> 3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity
> 
> Here's one of mine:
> 
> I needed a cockpit table. Well, I, personally, didn't need a cockpit table, but the admiral did, and I need a warm place to sleep, so you can see how the stars aligned on this one. I sussed out commercially available, marine priced cockpit tables and promptly gagged. So, I thought to myself, "self, you could make it yourself for a lot less." One problem. Well, four actually. I have limited woodworking skills, limited woodworking tools, and limited time. oh yeah, and I am cheap.
> So, I went to plan "c".
> 
> I spent some time eyeballing the cockpit in question:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I moseyed into action. I bought one of these for $29.99
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A frenzy of measuring, remeasuring, cutting, screwing, drinking, varnishing, etc. later, and this is how it finished up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see yours.


Great idea.....


----------



## This Old Sailboat

Just completed the classic companionway hatch repair using masking tape. Total cost about $3 in materials and a couple of hours.

For the whole story on stopping the screeching, see the latest post in my blog.


----------



## flo617

New cover for the hatch made with sunbrella. I used somewhere between one and two yards.

It was about 20 bucks per yard + 2 bucks for the tread (both from sailrite) and 4 snap buttons (~10$). With the leftover from the cutout I made a winch cover and have enough for another one.

Made with a singer 503 sewing machine


----------



## bljones

Quick saturday afternoon project to use up some scrap in the workshop. An old bed tray had been gathering dust on a shelf, waiting to be re-used or burnt. Something that had been in the back of my head was a portable nav/station/lapdesk. So, take one old bed tray table....








strip off the hardware, add some teak scraps from donorboat and some mahogany ply scrap, and...







some stowage for nav tools, a pad of paper, pencils, and an e-reader under the lid...







and room for a laptop and mouse, or quarter folded charts on top.
3 hours total time, zero cost.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

bljones said:


>


Considering how much I use my computer while sitting in bed, on the floor, couch or where ever, I could probably use something like that. Looks pretty good.


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

This Old Sailboat said:


> Just completed the classic companionway hatch repair using masking tape. Total cost about $3 in materials and a couple of hours.
> 
> For the whole story on stopping the screeching, see the latest post in my blog.


might I suggest using graphite powder mixed with the epoxy for lower friction


----------



## Dave_E

This is my first post to this thread. The boat has an integral fresh water tank made in the bow under the V berth. The first time we ran out of water (at the dock) I started looking... there was nothing to indicate water level and no way to have a look at the tank. I cut a hole on top of the tank, (which is under the V berth cushions) and installed a 12" access plate. That's good for maintenance, but still didn't solve the water quantity issue without moving cushions and opening the access. (I'm lazy). So I built the gauge setup shown below. Paid $40 for the gauge and $25 or so for the plumbing. The gauge reads "inches of water". The wife watched and recorded the gauge as I added 1 gallon at a time and then made a conversion table. Works good.


----------



## Dave_E

Here's another. Not that folks haven't installed microwaves, but I see them all over the boats. Our galley cupboards were perfect. We have CNG for the stove/oven, plug in coffe maker and hot cups, all we needed to round out the galley was a microwave. $89 or so on sale and cut one shelf... fit like a glove.


----------



## txg

Dave_E said:


> So I built the gauge setup shown below. Paid $40 for the gauge and $25 or so for the plumbing. The gauge reads "inches of water". The wife watched and recorded the gauge as I added 1 gallon at a time and then made a conversion table. Works good.


That's a quite nice idea, but there is another option, using a "flow counter" (don't know how they are called exactly in english) like this one (german page):
GARDENA Wassermengenzähler

those are available for about 20 Bucks, and you can simply put them in the line to the sink. Then, fill the tank, empty it and you know the exact tank volume.

pros:
-cheaper and easier to install
-very accurate

cons:
-you have to reset the counter when you refill the tank
-doesn't work if you don't fill the tank completely


----------



## Dave_E

txg said:


> That's a quite nice idea, but there is another option, using a "flow counter" (don't know how they are called exactly in english) like this one (german page):
> GARDENA Wassermengenzähler
> 
> those are available for about 20 Bucks, and you can simply put them in the line to the sink. Then, fill the tank, empty it and you know the exact tank volume.
> 
> pros:
> -cheaper and easier to install
> -very accurate
> 
> cons:
> -you have to reset the counter when you refill the tank
> -doesn't work if you don't fill the tank completely


I looked at that, however unless someone tells me for sure that gravity is enough force to work the counter... I don't know how sensitive they are. Not a bad idea if it works. It would probably work downstream of the pressure pump, but I had no room to install something in the plumbing that I could readily get to (everything behind walls or under floors).


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

txg said:


> That's a quite nice idea, but there is another option, using a "flow counter" (don't know how they are called exactly in english) like this one (german page):
> GARDENA Wassermengenzähler
> 
> those are available for about 20 Bucks, and you can simply put them in the line to the sink. Then, fill the tank, empty it and you know the exact tank volume.
> 
> pros:
> -cheaper and easier to install
> -very accurate
> 
> cons:
> -you have to reset the counter when you refill the tank
> -doesn't work if you don't fill the tank completely


English link
GARDENA Water Smart Flow Meter - Hose connectors


----------



## Multihullgirl

I can't imagine you can get cheaper, simpler nor easier than a sight tube


----------



## Multihullgirl

white74 said:


> might I suggest using graphite powder mixed with the epoxy for lower friction


and, if I recall, graphite in the epoxy will also add UV protection, yes?


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

Multihullgirl said:


> and, if I recall, graphite in the epoxy will also add UV protection, yes?


yes 
or if you want something a little more wear resistant you could add aluminum to the mix
west additives are great even if their epoxies are over priced /over rated


----------



## MedSailor

Dave_E said:


> Here's another. Not that folks haven't installed microwaves, but I see them all over the boats. Our galley cupboards were perfect. We have CNG for the stove/oven, plug in coffe maker and hot cups, all we needed to round out the galley was a microwave. $89 or so on sale and cut one shelf... fit like a glove.


While most all small microwaves appear to be the same size, there is one microwave on the market (that I am aware of) that is smaller than all the rest. I used to own a Sharp Half Pint, and it is a good little microwave 600W and big enough for a dinner plate, but the guts of the thing were well arranged as to not take up much space at all. If you're considering putting a nuker on a boat, take a look at this little puppy as it can save some space.

Sharp Half Pint Microwave

MedSailor

PS Happy 1000 posts to one of the best threads ever on SailNet!


----------



## Dave_E

No topic, just wanted to be the 1000th poster to this thread.


----------



## Barquito

Happy 1000! Awsome thread!


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

for this year will be redoing my headliner with frp beadboard 
and also doing a new cabin sole with 1/4" oak t&g flooring oak I got two boxes for free from flooring company one in blonde oak one in dark red oak as they were single boxes ( two small for normal household use (50 sq ft) the flooring company gave them to me
will be glueing them down with waterproof construction adhesive and nailing the tongues till the glue sets will post pics as the process goes


----------



## jimgo

White, please be sure to post pics and details!


----------



## Seaduction

Dave_E said:


> No topic, just wanted to be the 1000th poster to this thread.


Close, but no cigar.


----------



## Group9

Dave_E said:


> Here's another. Not that folks haven't installed microwaves, but I see them all over the boats. Our galley cupboards were perfect. We have CNG for the stove/oven, plug in coffe maker and hot cups, all we needed to round out the galley was a microwave. $89 or so on sale and cut one shelf... fit like a glove.


Ours is kind of in the same location, but not hidden like yours. I may try and make your idea work to hide ours.


----------



## FinallySailing

There are all sorts of different systems available to create waterproof electrical connections, both for 12V DC and 240V AC. I've come across "potting compounds". These are cross linking polymers that are normally used to create waterproof insulation for cables underground or outdoors. You mix equal amounts of two liquids, stir and within a few minutes it will set, creating a removable insulator that does not allow water to penetrate at all (IP68 rating). I've used all sorts of boxes to contain my connections and temporarily press butyl tlape around the cable exits to not allow the liquid to run out before it sets. It can easily be scraped (or spooned) out. There are some that can be reused, some have to be discarded after taking it apart. Here in the UK I've used Magic Gel by Raytech. I bought 2 liters from fleebay at a fraction of the normal cost - this will last for a few boats to come; it has no shelf life. 3M used to sell a similar product in North America and I am sure there are others available from more manufacturers.

Here's the connection box for my bilge pump as an example (without lid):



Raytech Magic Gel in bottles | Rapid Online


----------



## Barquito

Wow. That is freaky.


----------



## Power For Sail

Hello,

Our company mainly focuses on marine generators, but from time to time we get engines and sail drives as well.

Also if you need any parts feel free to give a shout and we will do our best to get you the best prices and speedy service.

Customer service is very important to us, so write us anytime you want !!!

thank you and happy sailing !!!


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

wrong thread Power for Sail this is low buck project 100 usd or less


----------



## bristol299bob

*LED galley lighting*

My boat has LED lighting throughout the cabin, but it was older tech and the color was too "cool" for my taste. Changing out most bulbs with newer "warm white" replacements was a 2 minute job and transformed the cabin from "harsh" to "cozy"

But the galley had those "puck" style under-cabinet lights. Not only were they the harsh blue/white color, but the coverage was uneven, and there were only 2, not enough to light the entire galley. Here is the before:









these had to go!

I bought this LED strip light:





And this: 





Since I was going to cut the 1M section and make two strips I ordered additional end caps and mounting clips for the channel (~$4)










The LED strip has 3M double sided tape on the back, so just peel it off and stick it to the channel. The strip can be cut to almost any length you desire. You can cut it every 3 LEDs, you can see the cut mark in this picture (just above the bottom-most LED)










You can solder your leads to the pads on either side of the cut. I cut a few 3 LED segments to practice soldering it. It takes a light touch since the strip is small and thin. It heats up very fast and can be damaged if it get too hot.




























Here's the result, for under 30 bucks:


----------



## This Old Sailboat

Well done!


----------



## randyrhines

*Re: LED galley lighting*



bristol299bob said:


> My boat has LED lighting throughout the cabin, but it was older tech and the color was too "cool" for my taste. Changing out most bulbs with newer "warm white" replacements was a 2 minute job and transformed the cabin from "harsh" to "cozy"
> 
> But the galley had those "puck" style under-cabinet lights. Not only were they the harsh blue/white color, but the coverage was uneven, and there were only 2, not enough to light the entire galley. Here is the before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these had to go!
> 
> I bought this LED strip light:
> Amazon.com: LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet (5 Meter) Flexible LED Light Strip with 300xSMD3528 and Adhesive Back, 12 Volt, Warm White 2700K, 2026WW-27K: Home Improvement
> 
> And this:
> Amazon.com: 1M/3.3ft Shallow Flush Mount Aluminum Channel U-Shape for flex/hard LED Strip Light w/Oyster White cover-U03: Home Improvement
> 
> Since I was going to cut the 1M section and make two strips I ordered additional end caps and mounting clips for the channel (~$4)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The LED strip has 3M double sided tape on the back, so just peel it off and stick it to the channel. The strip can be cut to almost any length you desire. You can cut it every 3 LEDs, you can see the cut mark in this picture (just above the bottom-most LED)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can solder your leads to the pads on either side of the cut. I cut a few 3 LED segments to practice soldering it. It takes a light touch since the strip is small and thin. It heats up very fast and can be damaged if it get too hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the result, for under 30 bucks:


Very nice good tip , good job!


----------



## GeorgeB

I like your task lighting! Where did you run the wires and where did you mount the switch? Do you have "red" lights already mounted in the galley area?


----------



## bristol299bob

GeorgeB said:


> I like your task lighting! Where did you run the wires and where did you mount the switch? Do you have "red" lights already mounted in the galley area?


I reused the switches from the old lights, a simple low profile rocker switch right next to each light. they are white switches so they blend in. All of the wires run behind the liner. Above the sink there is a large space space behind the liner, plenty of room to wire and I already had a fuse block there. Above the stove its a little tight and it required a bit of fishing and snaking of wires.

I have red lights in the Nav area but not in the galley ... yet  But you bring up a good point. There are few options for red:

1 - Add another strip of red LEDs
2 - Use 3 conductor LED strip lights that can display any color. Could be programmed to display white or red with a DPDT toggle.

Red lights: 





multicolor lights:


----------



## GeorgeB

Thanks for the info. My galley really needs task lighting and I was trying to figure out where I could get a low profile fixture that didn’t cost an arm and a leg.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

If you're looking to add more storage space in the cabin, check out the latest post on my blog, Under galley storage solution. If you're handy with wood or know someone who is, you can make exactly what you want quite economically, about $11.50 in my case .


----------



## FinallySailing

This Old Sailboat said:


> If you're looking to add more storage space in the cabin, check out the latest post on my blog, Under galley storage solution. If you're handy with wood or know someone who is, you can make exactly what you want quite economically, about $11.50 in my case .


Nice job and very interesting blog !


----------



## ericb760

It's impractical to pull my outboard after each use, so I leave it in on the weekends. I figured it would be better if I painted the lower unit with zinc chromate primer. Cost me $16.00 on Amazon.


----------



## MedSailor

I had a neighbor, when I was living aboard, that solved the problem with a $10 plastic office-sized wastebasket. He would strap the plastic wastebasket to the lower unit and lower it into the water, thus keeping it bone dry. He would occasionally have to pump out rainwater, but that's fresh water anyway.

MedSailor


----------



## Alex W

Yesterday I made a cheap mount for my Raymarine i70 using a Bud PN-1337-DG water-proof enclosure. This cost $9 from Amazon. The Bud PN-1336-DG would be a little nicer looking and lower profile, but for some reason those are $28 from Amazon.

First I drilled the 80mm (3-1/4") hole for the instrument and 4 pilot holes for screws. I did this on a small CNC mill, but it is an easy job on a drill press:









I mounted it using a RAM ball mount on the back of my seahood (over the companionway). I already had this lying around, but they are about $20-$30:









Note that the case is fully closed in that photo, even if it doesn't look like it. There is an O-ring seal around the inside edge to keep it waterproof.

This is the final product:









You need to take the bezel off of the i70 to get good access to the 4 screws that close up the case.

I like having this instrument mounted over the companionway. You can see it from anywhere in the cockpit and I rarely push the buttons so there is no reason to have this on the pedestal.

I think that this looks nicer than a NavPod and it's a whole lot cheaper:
Navpod PowerPod Grand Prix Series


----------



## Bene505

*Re: LED galley lighting*



bristol299bob said:


> My boat has LED lighting throughout the cabin, but it was older tech and the color was too "cool" for my taste. Changing out most bulbs with newer "warm white" replacements was a 2 minute job and transformed the cabin from "harsh" to "cozy"


Can you update the links? They don't work, and that would be perfect in our galley.

Regards,
Brad


----------



## faiaoaehe

Great ideas

Sent from my HUAWEI-M931 using Tapatalk


----------



## bristol299bob

*Re: LED galley lighting*



Bene505 said:


> Can you update the links? They don't work, and that would be perfect in our galley.
> 
> Regards,
> Brad


I'm not entirely sure why those amazon text links don't work, but click on the picture below it and you will get there.


----------



## rhr1956

I made a drill brush for cleaning the non-skid areas of the boat. It took about five minutes and less than $3.00 plus it works GREAT! 
HDX Soap and Scrub Kitchen Brush-139HDXRM at The Home Depot
1. Pop the top off. (I used my vise to break the soap holder off the brush part. 2. Thread a 1/4 - 20 screw (about 2 - 3 inches long up through the hole in the center of the brush head. 3. Secure the screw to the head with two 1/4-20 nuts, the second nut acting as a lock nut. 4. Insert assembly into the chuck of your favorite drill and start scrubbing using your favorite cleaner.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

Am I the only one who thinks that mast gates are overpriced? I made a set myself for about the cost of a cup of coffee at Starbucks. It wasn't that difficult and they work fine.

Mast gates solution | The $tingy Sailor


----------



## AllThumbs

I added a DIY rub rail to my dinghy. 3/4" nylon double braid. Fastened with a #6 flat head SS screw every 4" after first pulling the line as tight as possible. The screws are driven through the outer layer into the core so they don't show. Price: $35.

I also made those nylon bushings for the oar locks so it was no longer metal on metal. That requires a lathe so it doesn't count.


----------



## Barquito

$tingy- Those are great! For those that are not trailer sailing, using a flathead screw rather than a knob will prevent lines catching on the knobs. Really nice stuff $tingy.


----------



## AllThumbs

I am going on a week long cruise on the North Channel next week (if the ice is off by then). It's a 16 foot boat with no electrical. I built this little battery box to keep my phone charged. It has two 12 V outlets so it can be charged by a small solar panel while the phone is plugged in. It is also capable of charging my hand held radio. Total cost was $10 for three 12 V plugs. I had everything else laying around.





































I still need to add a couple screws to hold the lid on.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

Nice little battery boxes. I have 4 of those batteries (7 ah) sitting at home that I got for free. I saw some people throwing a bunch away that were from computer UPS boxes and grabbed a few. They do come in use.


----------



## Ritchard

Nice enough battery box, but a week-long cruise in the North channel on a 16 ft boat in a week?! I am not worthy.


----------



## AllThumbs

Added a fuse and fastened down the lid. All done now.


----------



## Raymond07

I'm attending to a small job today, to replace the cabin fluoro light which has stopped working. It's not worth my time to analyse why it doesn't work - it could be wiring, a blown tube, any number of things, but really I don't want a fluorescent fitting in the boat, for a couple of reasons.

I figured I'd try replacing it with an LED fitting. The fittings available off the shelf look incredibly daggy, so I've bought one roll 5050 led strip, which is a thin, narrow flexible strip with a self-adhesive backing. I am intending to mount it on the fwd face of a deck beam, out of the way of everything and no fluoro fitting to bang my head on. The strip can be cut down to any length if there is too much light coming from it.

The first job is to test the wiring while the old fitting is in place, then remove the old fitting and test the LED strip, and nominate a new location for it. First job, test the wiring. Switch on the master switch, and test that power is on in the boat. Yep, the bilge pump makes its noise just fine. witch the power to the old light, via the main switch panel. Switch the old light on, just in case, and yes, now that I have the LED strip sitting in the cabin with me, the old fitting lights up like new.


----------



## Ritchard

Raymond07 said:


> I'm attending to a small job today, to replace the cabin fluoro light which has stopped working. It's not worth my time to analyse why it doesn't work - it could be wiring, a blown tube, any number of things, but really I don't want a fluorescent fitting in the boat, for a couple of reasons.
> 
> I figured I'd try replacing it with an LED fitting. The fittings available off the shelf look incredibly daggy, so I've bought one roll 5050 led strip, which is a thin, narrow flexible strip with a self-adhesive backing. I am intending to mount it on the fwd face of a deck beam, out of the way of everything and no fluoro fitting to bang my head on. The strip can be cut down to any length if there is too much light coming from it.
> 
> The first job is to test the wiring while the old fitting is in place, then remove the old fitting and test the LED strip, and nominate a new location for it. First job, test the wiring. Switch on the master switch, and test that power is on in the boat. Yep, the bilge pump makes its noise just fine. witch the power to the old light, via the main switch panel. Switch the old light on, just in case, and yes, now that I have the LED strip sitting in the cabin with me, the old fitting lights up like new.


I'v used some of that LED strip lighting, it works great. It's more for accent light than task light, as there's not enough intensity for tasks. Pay attention to polarity - the strips will not work if wired backward.

Incidentally, I liked that strip lighting so much on the boat that I am replacing the old under-cabinet fluorescents in my kitchen with the same stuff. Much nicer light, and you could basically leave it on all the time as it uses next to no no electricity.

You can buy the stuff astonishingly cheaply on eBay. There are guys in China that will sell the stuff for peanuts, often with free shipping. I just pick someone with good feedback ratings and go for it.


----------



## i_amcdn

Ritchard said:


> You can buy the stuff astonishingly cheaply on eBay. There are guys in China that will sell the stuff for peanuts, often with free shipping. I just pick someone with good feedback ratings and go for it.


Lee Valley Tools has some nice channels with diffusers that are inexpensive.

LED Channels and Diffusers - Lee Valley Tools

They are local to us in Toronto so you can actually touch and feel before buying. And Lee Valley is not known for sourcing crap.


----------



## bristol299bob

Ritchard said:


> I'v used some of that LED strip lighting, it works great. It's more for accent light than task light, as there's not enough intensity for tasks. .


I find the strip lighting ideal for task lighting:









I got my diffusers and LEDs from Amazon:Galley lighting


----------



## Ritchard

i_amcdn said:


> Lee Valley Tools has some nice channels with diffusers that are inexpensive.
> 
> LED Channels and Diffusers - Lee Valley Tools
> 
> They are local to us in Toronto so you can actually touch and feel before buying. And Lee Valley is not known for sourcing crap.


Wow, those Lee Valley diffusers are gorgeous.


----------



## Alex W

My boat doesn't have a gimbal for the stove. I wanted a very basic one that could be used to make coffee (or other hot water based items) under way. I had a Jetboil that I use for camping that was sell contained, efficient, and fast, so I decided to make a gimbal for it.










There is a quick video showing the range of motion here:
http://1drv.ms/1ikmPFe

It is all made of stainless steel. I used stainless pipe cut into 1" sections for the two rings, stainless 1/8" rod to make the basket that supports the stove, and stainless hardware that bolts it all together. All of it is 316 except for the larger pipe which I could only get in 304.

It is pretty crudely made mostly with a hand drill. I did braze the basket that holds the stove together.

The Jetboil has very little waste heat, so the items nearby are safe. This location lets me keep an eye on the stove while sailing the boat. It pops off for storage in a couple of minutes using the two quick release clamps.

I still have to polish up some of the stainless and trim off the excess starboard that was used to make the mount.


----------



## Ritchard

When you want your damned coffee right now!


----------



## SloopJonB

But..but..how do you get the winch handle out without burning your hand?


----------



## Hovertank

This is by far one of the best threads I've ever had the pleasure to browse on Sailnet.

Thank you to everyone who's contributed! I'm still making a list of things I need to overhaul, replace on my own sailing vessel. I'll definitely be posting here when I finish a 'low buck' project that qualifies.


----------



## Alex W

SloopJonB said:


> But..but..how do you get the winch handle out without burning your hand?


Jetboil has very little waste heat, you can hold your hand on any part of the gimbal and it's barely warm.

The stove is only mounted while in use. It stows below or in the laz in a few seconds using those two quick release mounts.

I do wonder how I'll fit it and a folding binnacle table during cruising season, but that's an issue to figure out next month.

I used it today in 20 knots of wind and it worked great. I like having a cockpit stove.


----------



## Mr. Bubs

white74 said:


> for this year will be redoing my headliner with frp beadboard
> and also doing a new cabin sole with 1/4" oak t&g flooring oak I got two boxes for free from flooring company one in blonde oak one in dark red oak as they were single boxes ( two small for normal household use (50 sq ft) the flooring company gave them to me
> will be glueing them down with waterproof construction adhesive and nailing the tongues till the glue sets will post pics as the process goes


How's this project coming along? Any pics?


----------



## ccriders

Alex,
If it stays that cool, could you make it from PVC coded for hot water?
John


----------



## CXsailor

nice work there


----------



## Group9

Ritchard said:


> When you want your damned coffee right now!


Damn right!


----------



## Alex W

ccriders said:


> Alex,
> If it stays that cool, could you make it from PVC coded for hot water?


It might be possible. I took a quick look on McMaster Carr and didn't see PVC pipe in the correct dimensions for the Jetboil pot, but maybe you could adapt something else.

When flame is involved I do feel more comfortable making it out of stainless steel, but I can say that I'm able to put my hands around any part of the cage and not have them get hot.

I've used the stove multiple times now and it's a great addition to the boat.


----------



## CapnBones

I have a ton, and I am going through my phone right now looking at all the pictures. This one is kind of ugly, but it was less than a dollar. I had this silverware holder on the boat in a cabinet and it was kind of in the way, spilled and took up a lot of space, and there was a big blank space on the back of the cabinet door. I took care of a lot of blank space on the boat before I took it cruising. A couple pieces of shock cord from the hardware store threaded through (I keep a 10 or so feet of a few different thicknesses) and some screws that were in my random screw bucket and viola conveniently mounted silverware holder.


----------



## nwsaildude

looks good on the silverware - good job


----------



## Tim R.

CapnBones said:


> I have a ton, and I am going through my phone right now looking at all the pictures. This one is kind of ugly, but it was less than a dollar. I had this silverware holder on the boat in a cabinet and it was kind of in the way, spilled and took up a lot of space, and there was a big blank space on the back of the cabinet door. I took care of a lot of blank space on the boat before I took it cruising. A couple pieces of shock cord from the hardware store threaded through (I keep a 10 or so feet of a few different thicknesses) and some screws that were in my random screw bucket and viola conveniently mounted silverware holder.


Nice. We did something similar but with a bamboo basket we purchased from Amazon. More than a buck but not bad.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

Don't know if it technically qualifies as a low-buck project because if you DIY, it shouldn't cost over $100 but I refinished my exterior and companionway teak woodwork this past winter for around $60. Here's a link to the post on my blog. There's a few unusual points in it like simple jigs for varnishing parts, adding epoxy edge armor on the crib boards, and replacing the lock hasp for a cylinder lock, so I hope you find some useful ideas.

Enjoy!









$tingy Sailor


----------



## ultraclyde

The Vagabond 14 I just bought almost qualifies as a low-buck project as a whole at $600 for boat and trailer, but like most cheap boats it needed some repairs before getting it wet again. The original rudder (and centerboard) had rotted and the previous owner had replacements made by a local cabinet maker, templeted from the originals and using the original hardware. I'm not sure what happened to the original tiller, but the replacement was an 18" piece of 1'x2" red oak that had been cut into a long thin triangl. The front end was barely 1/4" thick, ramping up to 2" at the back. It was far too short and flimsy to work the linkage that kicks up the rudder, so I needed a new tiller. I really wanted one of the pretty, formed, laminated wood ones but I'm not putting a $100 tiller on a $600 boat.

My answer? A beautifully formed, solid piece of American Hickory. Specifically, a $10 replacement axe handle from the local hardware big box. With a little cut-and-fit on the blade end to fit it into the rudder assembly, I think it will work great. It's a little bulky for such a small boat, so I may go back and trim the end handle a bit. I'll probably use it this summer and see how I like it, then hit it with some spar urethane this winter.

I'll post pics later, having trouble uploading currently.

EDIT: as promised, pic of the Ten Dollar Tiller:


----------



## This Old Sailboat

A complete, commercially produced bimini top for my C22 for under $100 shipped  I added some extras to it that pushed my total installation cost to over $100, but if you want to do a stationary installation, no additional purchases are necessary.

All the details and more pictures are on my blog in Budget bimini top solution.

Cheap shade!


----------



## SloopJonB

ultraclyde said:


> EDIT: as promised, pic of the Ten Dollar Tiller:


I'd leave it alone - the axe handle end has a certain style.


----------



## CharlzO

I'm contemplating the same solution, actually. I just have to slice off the tapered back end to give enough width to mount on my rudder cap, but I do find it's a unique style indeed.


----------



## ultraclyde

Thanks. I did cut off the tapered part that normally goes into the axe head, and I cut and sanded what is now the top & bottom to make a flat surface for mounting hardware.

I took the boat out for the first time yesterday. It works pretty well, but it could have been about 8" longer to be perfect. Time to go back for that rake handle and make a hiking stick...


----------



## shadowraiths

Last year, to keep flying critters (_especially bees_) from flying into my cabin, I picked up some netting from the army surplus. Since that time I have been playing around with 3D printing. So, I decided to make a drop-in screen for my companionway. To do this, I am using a screen frame kit, with my own 3D printed corner brackets. I haven't put it together. Yet. However, I have checked to see if these things fit the frame (_they do_) as well as verifying the angles are correct (_they are_). Now it is a matter of cutting the thing to size, and installing the screen on the frame. Following is the cost breakdown (_sans tax_):

Screen Kit: $15
Black nylon screen: $5
Printed Brackets: 22 grams ( ~ 75¢)

Total: $20.75

Here's a pic of the 3D printed brackets including a couple kit brackets for reference.










P.s. yeah, I know. Fluorescent green. I save my black & white filament for things like my raspberry pi / go pro mounting system.










Oh, and. Printing bots. Of course. ^_~


----------



## dvuyxx

Cool. I can't wait until I'm 3D printing parts. The future is here!


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## SloopJonB

I'm holding out for one that prints stainless steel parts.


----------



## shadowraiths

dvuyxx said:


> Cool. I can't wait until I'm 3D printing parts. The future is here!


I must admit, it's a blast. Here's a non-boating item I printed...






... for the challenge, of course.

As for printing marine items? I've been pondering various possibilities. There are some considerations, however. For example, PLA is biodegradable, since it's pretty much made from vegetable oil extracts. So, it would not handle the weather. ABS, isn't. In fact, Legos are made from an injection molded ABS process. Otoh, FDM printing is much more rough than high-end 3D printing, as the melted plastic is laid down in layers. That, and the tensile strength is not that great for anything that depends on serious force (_as most marine items, do_). I have been experimenting t-glase, which can allegedly withstand a sledge hammer. The printed item's strength, however, depends upon two factors: tensile strength and layer adhesion. A too-hot t-glase print generates a fused mess. While too-cool prints result in parts that break apart at the layers.

So, the abbrev of the above tl;dr?

Printing things like screen brackets, curtain mounting blocks... basically things that can deal with odd-boat shapes, and even a few of those plastic pieces you find at hardware stores (_i.e., spacers, etc_), is great. Printing things that can withstand forces and weather? Not so much.



SloopJonB said:


> I'm holding out for one that prints stainless steel parts.


Yeah, that would be really nice. One guy is working on designing a metal extruder, though he's using solder for his filament. Would be interesting to see how far he gets. In the meantime, printing services, such as shapeways, who offer metal prints, use the lost wax process. Primarily bc, the challenge with metal printing is similar to that of t-glase: layer adhesion. Lost wax removes that from the equation.


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## SloopJonB

It's all just magic to me - a Star Trek replicator.


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## Stumble

There are machines that can do structural metal printing but they are still in the 200k range. Maybe some day.


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## TakeFive

Here's a quick fix for a poorly performing cheek block.

I have single line reefing, and unlike many, I like it. I've managed to take much of the friction out of the system with a block at the tack cringle so I can usually reef without going forward. Frankly, 90% of the time I decide whether to reef before leaving the slip, so reefing under way is minimized.

But when I do reef, one frequent problem occurs with the little cheek block on my mast. This block takes the line from the boom and diverts it upward to the reefing cringle at the luff. That works fine as long as tension is maintained, but there are many cases where the loss of tension when under full (un-reefed) sail causes the reefing line to fall off the cheek block and later get fouled when tensioned. Ignore the white/green line in the picture below - that's a spare halyard that I lashed around the mast to keep it out of the way. The reefing line is the white/blue one:










I decided that the reefing line would stay put even when not under tension if I made a guide to put over top the cheek block:





































The guide piece is made from 1/8" thick HDPE cutting board that I've used for various small projects. I used a hole cutting bit to make the round piece.


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## Alex W

The 3D printed parts reminded me of one of my recent projects, a simple bracket to hold a high gain wifi antenna to my shrouds.










I made the plastic bracket, it is cut out of a piece of starboard. I used my Taig CNC mill for the work, but a functional one would be easy to make using hand tools too. The loops top and bottom are for tying it onto the flag halyard, so that I can run it up to spreader height for use. When I don't need it the whole assembly is stored safely below decks instead of being permanently mounted.

I used it for the first time on Friday night when we were staying at Poulsbo Marina. My laptop and a couple of tablets could see but not connect to the marina WiFi from inside the cabin. Using the WiFi repeater (a Mikrotik Groove 52HPn) and that large antenna gave us a strong and fast signal.

I'll point out that CNC mills make it pretty easy to manufacture custom shaped 3D items out of stainless steel. Their are advantages and disadvantages to both additive ("printing") and subtractive ("milling") processes, but right now milling is the only affordable solution to making custom metal parts from computer drawings at home. The CNC mill cuts plastic just fine too.


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## Capt Len

Back when I was casting bronze bits and cannons (aluminium too) the mould was always a tedious part. Seem to me a 3D printed part in wax would be a great asset to lost wax casting


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## SloopJonB

Alex W said:


> The 3D printed parts reminded me of one of my recent projects, a simple bracket to hold a high gain wifi antenna to my shrouds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the plastic bracket, it is cut out of a piece of starboard. I used my Taig CNC mill for the work, but a functional one would be easy to make using hand tools too. The loops top and bottom are for tying it onto the flag halyard, so that I can run it up to spreader height for use. When I don't need it the whole assembly is stored safely below decks instead of being permanently mounted.
> 
> I used it for the first time on Friday night when we were staying at Poulsbo Marina. My laptop and a couple of tablets could see but not connect to the marina WiFi from inside the cabin. Using the WiFi repeater (a Mikrotik Groove 52HPn) and that large antenna gave us a strong and fast signal.
> 
> I'll point out that CNC mills make it pretty easy to manufacture custom shaped 3D items out of stainless steel. Their are advantages and disadvantages to both additive ("printing") and subtractive ("milling") processes, but right now milling is the only affordable solution to making custom metal parts from computer drawings at home. The CNC mill cuts plastic just fine too.


And all this time I thought having my own drill press was pretty cool.


----------



## Minnesail

SloopJonB said:


> And all this time I thought having my own drill press was pretty cool.


I don't even have a drill press anymore, I burned out the motor using a 6" hole saw on it to cut a G10 backing plate


----------



## Alex W

SloopJonB said:


> And all this time I thought having my own drill press was pretty cool.


For the five years before sailing I spent a lot of my hobby time and money building bicycle frames and tooling. As a result I have a fairly complete (for a hobbyist, not a pro) metal shop in my basement. I'm always glad when I get to apply some of those tools to boats.

My blog (Alex Wetmore is always busy with something?) has lots of information on those projects. Here is an example project with far more machining:
Alex Wetmore is always busy with something? » Blog Archive » My new frame fixture

Some bicycle framebuilding tools that I sold helped cover the costs of my CNC mill:
Alex Wetmore is always busy with something? » Store: Framebuilding Tools


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## MedSailor

This is cheating I know, because I haven't done the project yet, and because the video isn't mine. However I plan to do this tomorrow to add cheap AC to my man-cave. I thought y'all might like it because it looks like cheap and effective boat AC and ice is often available.







MedSailor


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## Rhapsody-NS27

MedSailor said:


> This is cheating I know, because I haven't done the project yet, and because the video isn't mine. However I plan to do this tomorrow to add cheap AC to my man-cave. I thought y'all might like it because it looks like cheap and effective boat AC and ice is often available.
> 
> MedSailor


Attached is my version I did a couple days ago. HVAC does work right now and the temps inside the house got up to 89. When I did this, it lowered the temp about 5 degrees before it went back up but by then, it was dark outside and cooled down overnight. The way it's setup in the picture, the box fan is blowing up to try getting the cooler air circulating along with the ceiling fan. The ice melted pretty fast though.


----------



## SloopJonB

MedSailor said:


> This is cheating I know, because I haven't done the project yet, and because the video isn't mine. However I plan to do this tomorrow to add cheap AC to my man-cave. I thought y'all might like it because it looks like cheap and effective boat AC and ice is often available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MedSailor


That's just a version of an old time swamp cooler - you can buy them for cheap - just a fan with a tank.

They add a LOT of humidity to the area they operate in.


----------



## CharlzO

I have a smaller dual-fan desktop one I built out of some radioshack parts. Fan on the left pushes air into the box, over ice, and the other draws it and funnels through the tunnel towards me. It's crude, was a first draft, and probably cost me $65 worth of parts (since I didn't want to wait, I bought it all there, including a 12v 1a power supply, plus a jack, and switches, and everything.

Drops the immediate area a few degrees which is just enough to make too warm, into bearable for me.


----------



## ericb760

SloopJonB said:


> That's just a version of an old time swamp cooler - you can buy them for cheap - just a fan with a tank.
> 
> They add a LOT of humidity to the area they operate in.


You beat me to it! I figured that one of these (non-swamp cooler models) could cool my boat for cheap. So, I bought a Styrofoam cooler, a 3-inch PVC elbow, and a six dollar car fan at Wal-Mart. I spent a total of $11.00 (I already had the aluminum AC tape). Not the quietest, but it works!. Two blocks of ice will keep it cooling all night.


----------



## TakeFive

ericb760 said:


> You beat me to it! I figured that one of these (non-swamp cooler models) could cool my boat for cheap. So, I bought a Styrofoam cooler, a 3-inch PVC elbow, and a six dollar car fan at Wal-Mart. I spent a total of $11.00 (I already had the aluminum AC tape). Not the quietest, but it works!. Two blocks of ice will keep it cooling all night.


I hope nobody get smart and tries dry ice in the confined space of a boat. That could be deadly.


----------



## ericb760

TakeFive said:


> I hope nobody get smart and tries dry ice in the confined space of a boat. That could be deadly.


I actually considered a LN2 closed loop system run through a cold water/glycol circulator, but it became too complicated. That was a simple way that we used to simulate space temperatures at NASA. Can you imagine a home built AC system for your boat blowing 0 degrees Fahrenheit or lower?


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## Bill-Rangatira

Just finished my swing away bracket for my depth sounder









































Not installed yet but will post more pics later
cost:
1) left over piece of glass door frame - $0
2) piece of mahogany dunnage picked up from side of road - $0
3) brass bolt in misc bolt bucket - $0
4) quick wipe of Danish oil Walnut colour - $0

Bill 
SV Rangatira


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## therapy23

Please make the pics smaller as they blow the whole page.


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## Bill-Rangatira

therapy23 said:


> Please make the pics smaller as they blow the whole page.


will do
Done


----------



## pdqaltair

MedSailor said:


> This is cheating I know, because I haven't done the project yet, and because the video isn't mine. However I plan to do this tomorrow to add cheap AC to my man-cave. I thought y'all might like it because it looks like cheap and effective boat AC and ice is often available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MedSailor


Substitute ~ 18 frozen bottles of water and you could get ~ > 2 hours of cooling for a small area with no increase in humidity. About 250 BTU per sports drink bottle = 4500 BTUs ( a Cruise-n-Carry is ~ 6500 BTU/hr and will cool a 30' boat in very hot weather). Better air flow too. This would work in a small cabin, though I think I prefer a fan and sweat.

I've used vests with ice pockets for really hot jobs (sand blasting on the summer in full gear) and they really do work.


----------



## Minnesail

Jib bag kit from Sailrite, $75!

I used my wife's inherited 60-year-old Singer Featherweight and it chewed right through, even when sewing through seven layers.

I now have my 150 genoa hanked on and the sheets run, that saves maybe ten minutes of pulling the sail out and rigging everything. Also, the 150 genoa is physically my biggest sail, so getting it out of the cabin and up on deck saves a lot of space.


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## socal c25

Nice bag, I was thinking on that set up too.


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## Minnesail

At $75 it's something like 1/20 the cost of roller furling... I think it will be nearly as convenient.

And the boat came with four hank-on head sails and I want to be use them all.


----------



## budvar

Battery box for US Yacht 25. Still needs glass/epoxy.


----------



## mitiempo

budvar said:


> Battery box for US Yacht 25. Still needs glass/epoxy.


Why the holes?


----------



## socal c25

mitiempo said:


> Why the holes?


Batteries give off H2 (hydrogen) gasses when charging which can be explosive, to prevent the possibility of that happening you should vent the battery box. Even if your batteries are not in a box but under a settee or in a cabinet they should be vented.


----------



## mitiempo

socal c25 said:


> Batteries give off H2 (hydrogen) gasses when charging which can be explosive, to prevent thay you should vent the battery box. Even if your batteries are not in a box but under a settee or in a cabinet they should be vented.


Agreed, but at the very top - not halfway down the sides. With a proper tight fitting lid on that box the top half will not vent at all.


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## Bill-Rangatira

and hydrogen should be vented out of boat


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## budvar

It was 100 deg F here today. Good ventilation can't hurt, IMHO. Also, I don't plan on heeling at 45 deg regularly. The holes should contain any stray liquid. Thanks for the input, however.


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## Bill-Rangatira

Minnesail said:


> Jib bag kit from Sailrite, $75!
> 
> I used my wife's inherited 60-year-old Singer Featherweight and it chewed right through, even when sewing through seven layers.
> 
> I now have my 150 genoa hanked on and the sheets run, that saves maybe ten minutes of pulling the sail out and rigging everything. Also, the 150 genoa is physically my biggest sail, so getting it out of the cabin and up on deck saves a lot of space.


nice work do you have a downhaul for dousing the foresail as well?


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## Minnesail

white74 said:


> nice work do you have a downhaul for dousing the foresail as well?


Not yet.

I have to go up to the mast anyway to release the halyard, so it's not any extra trouble to pull the sail down while I'm up there. When I run the jib halyard back to the cockpit I'll also run a downhaul.


----------



## mbowser

I really like that bag, I was just thinking about where I would store my 3 headsails last night once the boat goes back in the water. I am going from roller furling to hank on and I haven't had to worry about it before. This would be a good (partial) solution.

I just finished a low budget project as well (along with lots of expensive ones) and thought I'd share. Mine is new winch bases made from scrap Mahogany and Sapele to match my coamings.

Full details are here: Magic #16: Winch Bases on the Cheap


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## Barquito

Nice winch bases. I love projects that save money and are attractive.


----------



## Westsailforever

Stuff like this is not for every boat but I think it lends it's self nicely to any older classic type boat . This block started out life as a Nico with the black rubber cheeks . All I did was take them out and put in teak . I currently have one under construction that started out as a Merriman with the black rubber .


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## KismetP362

Here are some of my contributions to $100 or less club

The cockpit table is made from the seat benches out of an old Pearson Ensign I scrapped. Couldn't let the mahognay go to waste. Hinges are SS Piano hinge ($15 at Hamilton Marine) and the attachments are some rail clamps I had laying around. To keep it upright, I bought hatch spring stay that snaps open ($15 from anywhere)

Only downside is that it doesn't fold open more like the $200 edson version.









Also in this pic is the harness my wife made for the crawler. They wear lifejackets while underway but at anchor or when on the mooring, we let them roam while teatherd.

PS: I made this baby too but he didn't qualify for the "under $100 project" thread.

Next:
Lee cloth for the mid day napper. After falling out of her bunk and spoiling a peaceful nap time, my wife got some mesh and made this lee cloth. We went with bungee for the top because the kids will tear the screws out of the wood if it was done with solid line. This way, they are held in while sleeping but are not trapped.








PS: again, the daughter does not qualify as under $100.

Last one for now is the pads my wife built for the kids to not smash their heads off the hull while rolling around asleep as we sail during their nap times. 








and here is the rail we made across the vberth to contain the whelps when they should be napping but instead want to come up and play.


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## therapy23

Great you make the time to sail anyway.
Quite the team you have to control there.


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## AllThumbs

I made these "combing pockets" to make use of the dead space inside the cockpit combings. I glued them in permanently. I did both port and starboard sides. Great place to keep cell phone, radio, water bottle, sunscreen, etc. They slope (drain) out towards the cockpit. The cross bar keeps things inside. There is a 1/4" lip on the bottom to keep a pencil or something inside.

Price was free since I had everything: Plywood, epoxy, glass, paint.


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## SloopJonB

Forming the cutout to incorporate a built in fiddle like that was a stroke of brilliance - simpler, cheaper, stronger, all around better than the usual strip of teak or whatever added after the fact.

"Why didn't I think of that"?

Two thumbs up.


----------



## StormBay

This one ekes by as a low buck project if you consider that there are 4 cushions for a total of $130, so $32.50 per cushion. I used one whole sheet of 2" dry fast foam from the foam factory wholesale site (not to be confused with the regular foam factory site which looks exactly the same, and is in fact the same company selling the same product but at higher price! e.g $143.99 vs $84.30!) I wanted to use thicker foam but the hatch doors limited me to 2". I also picked up some Sunbrella fabric, Phifertex like material for the backs, and some bulk zipper from our local discount marine store here in town, Sailors exchange, all for $40. Score! This was one of my first sewing projects, and though they are not perfect, for the price my wife can't really complain.


----------



## Multihullgirl

tip for cushions:
Oversize the foam by about 1/4-1/2" to make a tight 'stuffed' fit


----------



## StormBay

Multihullgirl said:


> tip for cushions:
> Oversize the foam by about 1/4-1/2" to make a tight 'stuffed' fit


Thats a good tip, and it doesn't look like it from the photos, but I did. Sailrite has a good video on making cockpit cushions that I followed as best as I could.


----------



## Barquito

I made my cabin cushions a little thinner that I should have (mostly because I am cheap). I will probably just slide a thin high density foam under the cushion. Wondering if anyone has used multiple density foams built into the cushion. Would be nice and squishy on the top part, and the higher density foam on the bottom would keep you from 'bottoming' out.


----------



## Multihullgirl

No reason not to do different foams. I've done layers of foam along with layers of batting, as well.


----------



## Delezynski

We have done it NO PROBLEM!

And it's doing very well after more than a year.
You can see how we did it at our Youtube page at;
New cushions - YouTube

*NOTE:* I did the video in 3D, but you can turn that off by clicking the small "gear" at the bottom right and select off.

Greg



Barquito said:


> I made my cabin cushions a little thinner that I should have (mostly because I am cheap). I will probably just slide a thin high density foam under the cushion. Wondering if anyone has used multiple density foams built into the cushion. Would be nice and squishy on the top part, and the higher density foam on the bottom would keep you from 'bottoming' out.


----------



## ultraclyde

Got a couple of recent updates on my trailer sailer. The first is mast crutches for transport. I tow an hour on the interstate to get to the nearest lake, so safety and security in transit is very important. The trailer had now crutches so I had to fab something. There were several competing requirements - minimal rear overhang, lofting the front of the mast enough to clear the cargo rack (and any cargo) on the roof of my SUV, enough clearance to open the rear hatch with the mast in place, and still being short enough to pass through the garage into my back yard for storage. The last bit - being short while also being tall - was the real head scratcher. I decided to weld up a crutch that kicked backward enough to clear the door and incorporated a hinged topsection that could be folded down to get the trailer through the garage. The whole thing was made from 1" square tube I had lying around. I bought a gate hinge, some 'cold-galvanizing' spray paint, and the knob, so I'm out around $15. The rear crutch is made of scrap wood and metal bits to lock in the gudgeons but bear weight on the transom. Total cost - $0


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## ultraclyde

...and the second weekend project - a tiller tamer. No cost - I made a little jam cleat out of scrap stainless and I'll use the bungee that secures the rear of the mast in transit. Should provide enough control to hold course in case I have to go forward for something or just want to heave to for lunch.


----------



## ggray

Looks good.

BTW, I'm missing my axe. Have you seen it?


----------



## ultraclyde

ggray said:


> Looks good.
> 
> BTW, I'm missing my axe. Have you seen it?


I....um....ah......

No. No I haven't.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

My latest woodworking project for _Summer Dance _is this wine glass rack.










It's made from a couple feet of shock cord, some hog rings, and leftover mahogany stained and varnished.

You can find a dimensioned drawing, materials list, and instructions on my blog at this link: Wine glass rack.

For about $4, made the first mate pretty happy . You can too and it doesn't take a lot of woodworking skills or tools.


----------



## nwsaildude

This is a table I built a while back. 24 x 24 inches, 1/2 inch thick Polypropylene Sheet.

Edges are rounded and the top roughed up a bit with coarse sandpaper to give a mat finish

Hangs on the second step and braces off the bottom step.

No fiddles as it is not intended for use underway (well maybe as a nav table but not for eating)

Bit heavier than I wanted but the plastic cleans easy.

For some more pictures and design stuff see the article on my site:

The New Table | Boating Safety Tips, Tricks & Thoughts from Captnmike

sorry can't remember the cost, but under $100.


----------



## Alex W

Nice table. I'm often balancing stuff on my companionway stairs when cooking and can see how a table there would be really helpful.

With a little more work I bet the same tabletop could be the basis for a pedestal table or a companionway table. It's hard to find storage for a piece of plastic that big, so doing double duty would be great.


----------



## nwsaildude

Thanks

I have been happy with it - you could make it a different size if you want.

I store the table aft on port with the fenders - see the background of the picture - the table top goes to the hull to keep it clean, some of the fenders usually end up going against the bottom of the table when the table is stored


----------



## thereefgeek

Outboard engine stand. Basically free since I already had the 2X4's and wood screws. Built from a set of plans downloaded off the inter webs, and it has a spot to put your gas can, and you can park a rubbermaid tub full of water under the lower end for a test run.















test run from Ramble On on Vimeo.


----------



## thereefgeek

Nice work bench!! I'm jealous.



deniseO30 said:


> this really is low buck since the beech lumber was free. I have less then a $100 in hardware including the tail vise slide that was on sale for $55.
> More pics here;
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/off-topic/104786-roubo-bench-build-3.html#post1204401


----------



## thereefgeek

Nice score on the bronze port lights. We cleaned ours with a soak in Clorox toilet bowl cleaner (the blue kind with HCl, not chlorine). The acidic nature of the cleaner is a bit of a pain to work with, but we wore gloves and safety glasses when scrubbing with a brass brush. After paying $25/ea for new laminated safety glass for 8 oval and 3 round ports on our T37. I'm not sure it qualifies as a "low buck project", but at $3 for a bottle of Clorox, it's a cheap way to remove a whole lot of scale and corrosion from bronze hardware in a real hurry&#8230;







































SloopJonB said:


> I have to crib this a bit in order to qualify for the low buck category. I'm only going to show 10% of the total project. I got ten of these solid bronze opening ports for $60 each. I had to scavenge them from a derelict old cruiser to get them for that price and by the time I was done I already wondered if I had paid too much.
> 
> The boat I recently bought has plastic deadlights with brass trim rings outside and teak rings inside. I wanted metal opening ports but even brass ones would have cost several boat bucks - bronze ones like these would have been almost as much as I paid for the whole boat plus they would have to come from New Zealand.
> 
> It's taken about a full days work each to remove, clean & polish them. That adds up when there are 10 of them to do. I had to start with 220 sandpaper and go up through 320, 400, 600, 800 & 1200 before I could begin buffing but I'm pretty happy with how they came out and especially the deal I got.
> 
> They won't go in until next fall or winter.
> 
> Before & after pics below.


----------



## thereefgeek

We also use Flitz metal polish every 6 months or so to maintain that "shiny new, straight from the factory" bronze finish. Not bad for bronze ports founded in 1977….


----------



## AllThumbs

I cut the four holes on the sides of the berths for easier access. There are hatches on top but these are a pain with the cushions and who knows what else on top (sometimes people). I used a 3" hole saw to create the radii and then joined the holes with a thin cut off disk in an angle grinder. Finished it up with some sandpaper to remove sharp edges.


----------



## SloopJonB

thereefgeek said:


> Nice score on the bronze port lights. We cleaned ours with a soak in Clorox toilet bowl cleaner (the blue kind with HCl, not chlorine). The acidic nature of the cleaner is a bit of a pain to work with, but we wore gloves and safety glasses when scrubbing with a brass brush. After paying $25/ea for new laminated safety glass for 8 oval and 3 round ports on our T37. I'm not sure it qualifies as a "low buck project", but at $3 for a bottle of Clorox, it's a cheap way to remove a whole lot of scale and corrosion from bronze hardware in a real hurry&#8230;


Are those pics simply before & after the acid bath or did you polish them up after?

Also, where were you when I spent all those days with wire brushes, sandpaper, buffing wheels & metal polish?


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

thereefgeek said:


> Nice score on the bronze port lights. We cleaned ours with a soak in Clorox toilet bowl cleaner (the blue kind with HCl, not chlorine). The acidic nature of the cleaner is a bit of a pain to work with, but we wore gloves and safety glasses when scrubbing with a brass brush. After paying $25/ea for new laminated safety glass for 8 oval and 3 round ports on our T37. I'm not sure it qualifies as a "low buck project", but at $3 for a bottle of Clorox, it's a cheap way to remove a whole lot of scale and corrosion from bronze hardware in a real hurry&#8230;


Nice work. 

I've used vinegar to clean parts that still turned out well. Those ports of yours now looks brand new.


----------



## socal c25

AllThumbs said:


> I cut the four holes on the sides of the berths for easier access. There are hatches on top but these are a pain with the cushions and who knows what else on top (sometimes people). I used a 3" hole saw to create the radii and then joined the holes with a thin cut off disk in an angle grinder. Finished it up with some sandpaper to remove sharp edges.


You can finish the cut-outs with automotive door edge guard to kkp your hands and arm from rubbing against the fiberglass, it makes a softer edge.


----------



## nighthawk

Like the cutouts. And if you can find a local upholestry shop you the will probably carry that rubberized edge strip that slips on over the edges. They normally sell it by the foot, so you can cut it to exact length insted of trying to piece together door edging to make it fit all the way around. A little dab of glue or sealant in places ans it will stay in place for years.


----------



## nwsaildude

I have also seen the edging in Marine Supply stores also


----------



## mitiempo

Taco makes edging that should be available in any good marine store. As posted the automotive trim works well also.


----------



## rmeador

I just relabeled my electrical panel. Not only was it nearly illegible, several of the labels were confusing or downright wrong, as I think you'll agree:










The labels came off rather easily with a razor blade, then I did a little cleanup with Goo Gone and alcohol.










I had the stickers made up by a local sign shop. They're printed on clear plastic (vinyl?), since the cut out letters used for larger stuff like boat names would have been too tiny to deal with. I chose to accentuate the circuits that are powered by the inverter by making them blue. The total was $55, and was the only cost for this project, aside from about an hour and a half of time. The observant among you may note that I swapped out my voltmeter for a TriAnchor light control, since that function is now performed by my battery monitor, so there was no need to label that now-defunct switch.










Finished product:










Much more legible, and now I don't have a LORAN breaker anymore!


----------



## nwsaildude

Nice job on the panel


----------



## socal c25

very pro looking


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## Multihullgirl

On the subject of sourcing, McMaster-Carr is an industrial supply house not unlike Grainger. McMaster has an excellent online search engine which includes data on the materials in question. There is no minimum and their prices are competitive to low.

I'm quite sure the trim pieces will be there. I've bought bearings for traveler tracks and winches, rivets, gasket material, sheet and billet plastics and metals, filter/strainers, cork for flooring, the list goes on and on

the website is mcmaster.com and it's a wonderful resource.


----------



## Bene505

AllThumbs said:


> I cut the four holes on the sides of the berths for easier access. There are hatches on top but these are a pain with the cushions and who knows what else on top (sometimes people). I used a 3" hole saw to create the radii and then joined the holes with a thin cut off disk in an angle grinder. Finished it up with some sandpaper to remove sharp edges.


You could velcro something against the "walls" to cover the holes.

Regards,
Brad


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## nwsaildude

Making Pelican Hook Lanyards & Key Fobs

These are Lanyards I have made for my boat and for friends, they also work nice as Key Fobs (Gave many Key Fobs away as gifts)

They are quick and easy - use colorful line - or Red & Green for Port & Starboard - install them backwards on your friends boat if you are in a bit of a mean or joking mood. 



















This knot goes by many names, Portuguese Sennit, Cobra Knot, Solomon's Bar, Boatswains Plait and probably some others.

Instructions:

Making Pelican Hook Lanyards & Key Fobs | Boating Safety Tips, Tricks & Thoughts from Captnmike

Making Spiral Pelican Hook Lanyards & Key Fobs | Boating Safety Tips, Tricks & Thoughts from Captnmike


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## bljones

A digest of NextBoat's low-buck projects:
Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Projectapalooza


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## thereefgeek

SloopJonB said:


> Are those pics simply before & after the acid bath or did you polish them up after?





Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> Nice work.
> 
> I've used vinegar to clean parts that still turned out well. Those ports of yours now looks brand new.


Thanks guys. Those port pics were after a once-over with Flitz. Ive tried vinegar on the bronze, but it seems to take forever and a day to soak off 38 years of "patina".

Something else I've tried, and it's way less toxic than the hydrochloric acid in the Clorox toilet bowl cleaner is a soak in CLR (Calcium Lime & Rust cleaner available at Home Depot). More aggressive than vinegar, yet less acidic than HCl. Don't use it on brass, but it works great on bronze. You should still wear gloves, and a Scotchbrite pad scrubbing helps speed things along. The metal turns pink in the soak after it cuts through the green and still needs a good rinse afterward, before a final polish with Flitz but here's a before & after using CLR on the cowl vents on our Tayana 37:



















Check out my blog in my sig line...


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## SloopJonB

What happens if you use it on brass?


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## KismetP362

Multihullgirl said:


> I'm quite sure the trim pieces will be there. I've bought bearings for traveler tracks and winches, rivets, gasket material, sheet and billet plastics and metals, filter/strainers, *cork for flooring*, the list goes on and on


Can you tell me/us more about the "cork for flooring"? If your original project was over $100 I'll promise to use the cork for an under $100 project and then post it here. I'm guessing you used the STRIPS but how did it look and more importantly, how well did it wear?


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## Capt Len

Cork tiles are great. Look in Home Depot or similar flooring store. Looks good and wears well. It's not gasket stuff.


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## Multihullgirl

McMaster has cork sheets in 4x8 foot size. Do a search for 'cork' and then 'sheet'. This one 9487K38 is the one in question. Oil resistant - the one for chalkboards won't do.

But.... have since done more searching and found a place in Maine that offers it cheaper. Google 'cork sheet' or similar to get results. Bangor Cork is the place

Haven't installed it yet, mainly because the companionway door has to come out to solve the leak that ate the old floor and it's damn near 100F out there so that little job gets to wait for cooler weather 

Cork tiles are heavy. And, every one I've seen has a fiberboard backing that I'm not interested in putting in the boat. I've tried all sorts of samples from various mfg (I leave 'em overnight in a tray of water) and they all delaminated. Therefore I want just plain 1/2" sheeting.


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## pdqaltair

Rod holder from an outboard rail mount. Actually, I use this one mostly to hold a pair of short outriggers when not in use. Very cheap, doesn't spin on the rail, and doesn't mark the rail.










The rail mount came with the boat; I leave the outboard on the tender, on the davits.


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## thereefgeek

SloopJonB said:


> What happens if you use it on brass?


Not sure, but since it said so on the label I'm hesitant to try.

Besides, who uses brass on a sailboat anyway?


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## TakeFive

I made a fenderboard out of 2" schedule 40 PVC pipe. The pipe is actually about 3" OD, very thick, sturdy, and stiff. I bought a 10' length and cut it into two pieces and made two of them like this:








This is not any less expensive than a real wood fender board, but it assembles/disassembles and stores more easily. Since my cockpit lockers are all <5' long, I need to store it inside my cabin. I only like having clean stuff down there, and the PVC wipes clean a lot more easily than wood.

I only use these a few times a year when visiting Chesapeake marinas that have non-floating bulkheads with pilings, requiring me to have fender boards to keep my boat from getting bashed up. On the Delaware River everything is floating docks, for which I have teardrop-shaped fenders that work better for those but don't work at all against pilings.

I use this with 6.5"x23" fenders, so with the PVC pipe it holds the pilings about 9" away from my hull, so the rubrail and fragile hull-deck joint do not come close to the piling. A well-placed knot on each fender line and a couple wraps around the top of the fenders keep the pipe at the perfect location between the fenders. It all disassembles very fast for easy storage under the cabin settee.

The fender and pipe sizes work well for my 25' boat. Dimensions could be upsized for bigger boats.

Not sure I would trust PVC in a heavy storm, though. But not sure I'd trust a 2x10 board under those conditions either.


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## thereefgeek

Here's one for you.
Everyone looses a halyard up the mast from time to time 

I found a thing online for snatching a loose halyard from the mast head for about $30+shipping. I made one from a 2x4 and some eyebolts for about $3.
(actually, free since I already had all the stuff)










Here's a couple links to the write-up on my site, and a video of it in action:

Hal-yard-lujah - Tayana 37 - Ramble OnRamble On
More fun with rope - Ramble OnRamble On






DIY halyard retrieval from Ramble On on Vimeo.


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## Multihullgirl

reefgeek,

your solution reminded me of this:

Potato Masher = Bosun?s Chair??


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## asdf38

I'm already working on version 2 of this but there is certainly a good idea here:


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## socal c25

asdf38 said:


> I'm already working on version 2 of this but there is certainly a good idea here:


Throw your flares and safety stuff in a waterproof box and mount it like the lines. Easy access in case of emergency.


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## Cap-Couillon

*Re: Low buck projects- Let's see 'em! (Serving Mallet Mark-II)*

Building a couple of new dinks, and needed to put wraps on 2 pair of oars. Getting the wraps tight enough is always a pain, so went back to my days as Noahs' bosun and came up with this out of the "odds and sods" bin.

Old school serving-mallet Mark-II version with reel. 









Recycled hardwood meat tenderizer with radius (about 50% larger than your finished wrap radius) cut out of head. You can vary the number of wraps around the handle to control tension. To increase tension while you are wrapping, grab the mallet handle a little tighter. As set up in the photo, it wraps tighter than an Irishman on St Patricks' Day. Takes me about 5 min to put on a 12" wrap. Also good for fancy work wraps on tillers, handrails, wheels, etc. Oar wraps are 3/16 single braid... for smaller work (eg marline) you may need to wrap around the mallet head a couple of additional times for adequate friction especially if you are using waxed line.

The reel allows you to work without a helper passing the skein of small stuff.

Total cost... $0.00 
Make sure wife does not catch you in the galley drawer 

While the cost of the dink project exceeds the low budget limit (about $500 for 2) it was still cheaper than buying... and I couldn't find a 6' dink to fit my fore deck. Built the 6 foot for me, and will sell the 7'-4" to cover the cost of both. Here is a photo of the 6' in the water to check water line for bottom paint. Click on it to view a build gallery.


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## pdqaltair

TakeFive said:


> I only use these a few times a year when visiting Chesapeake marinas that have non-floating bulkheads with pilings, requiring me to have fender boards to keep my boat from getting bashed up. On the Delaware River everything is floating docks, for which I have teardrop-shaped fenders that work better for those but don't work at all against pilings.
> 
> I use this with 6.5"x23" fenders, so with the PVC pipe it holds the pilings about 9" away from my hull, so the rubrail and fragile hull-deck joint do not come close to the piling. A well-placed knot on each fender line and a couple wraps around the top of the fenders keep the pipe at the perfect location between the fenders. It all disassembles very fast for easy storage under the cabin settee...
> 
> Not sure I would trust PVC in a heavy storm, though. But not sure I'd trust a 2x10 board under those conditions either.


Nice. I see how it would store more easily, and it looks very suitable for the boat--I should have tried that with my last boat, since a piece of PVC is nothing to carry! However, it is not going to take wear like a thick board.

This one is based on a 2x6 and has taken some very heavy use against exposed docks in severe weather. There are 2 tricks to making it strong:
1. The board can be relatively short if there are spring lines to hold the boat in place. 3-4' is enough.
2. You can place additional fenders behind it if needed. In the worst conditions I shove a 3rd fender in there, taking load off the board and spreading the load on the hull further.

I recessed the knots to avoid abrasion, but others have sandwiched 2 boards and run them between. I've also seen varnished fender boards, which is pretty damn silly, IMHO.

Some of the long fender boards I've seen made from 2x4s seem like a failure just waiting.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

I made an access door for the storage space under the V berth in my C-22 out of leftover Honduran mahogany.










It matches the teak woodwork and cost me only $11.50 for the hinges, catch, and mounting screws.










You can read more about the project in today's post on my blog, Under V berth storage solution.

Its sister project is a similar door that I described in Under galley storage solution.










If you're handy at woodworking or know somebody who is, it's not hard to take advantage of a lot of unused space in your boat.


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## drsutton

had these companionway doors fabricated at a plastic shop. Material is the same as starboard except cheaper. replaced board channels with same material.. All materials including hardware about $125


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## drsutton

Forgot the pics. Sorry about that. Once again, these companionway doors were fabricated at a local plastic shop. Material is the same as seaboard except cheaper. Previous board channels were removed and replaced with a plastic strips. Entire project cost about a $125 - including hardware. When open they swing back against the cabin bulkhead. Best upgrade up down to my Helms 27.


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## SloopJonB

The old compact size Jabsco head in my boat wasn't pumping water in - it would flush if you filled the bowl with water so I figured the pump had a stuck inlet valve. I wasn't looking forward to stripping it and even a rebuild kit was pushing $100 after tax. A new pump assembly was well over $100.

Instead I found a brand new, full size Jabsco twist & lock at the Jeanneau dealership for $100. They replace them with electrics on all their 40' + boats before delivery.

Old one out, new one in the same place and I treated it to some new hoses.

Brand new, more comfortable and no ugly rebuild - a winner all the way around and it just squeaked the $ limit on this thread.


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## MedSailor

drsutton said:


> Forgot the pics. Sorry about that. Once again, these companionway doors were fabricated at a local plastic shop. Material is the same as seaboard except cheaper. Previous board channels were removed and replaced with a plastic strips. Entire project cost about a $125 - including hardware. When open they swing back against the cabin bulkhead. Best upgrade up down to my Helms 27.


I thought about doing something like that once, but couldn't figure out how to measure accurately enough for the shop to fabricate it. Did you mock up something in cardboard, or just take a few measurements and trust that the angles are all straight and true?

MedSailor


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## SloopJonB

Door skins work better than cardboard for patterns like that.


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## Capt Len

Cut door skins into 3 inch strips .use tin snips to cut to the needed lengths and glue gun at corners. Add cross bracing and label where and up and which side out. That's important when you've got an armload of patterns.If cutting glass to the patterns allow for expansion/sealing gap. Frames have to be of a plane so good joinery helps too.


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## Brent Swain

Used plywood is far more reliable than new, especially if it has been out in the weather a while with no sign of delamination. An angle grinder with a sanding disk ,or a belt sander will smooth it out.
Mixing marine enamel with talc makes a good, cheap filler. 
Sheet blocks are easy and cheap to build. Just cut the sides out of scrap, 3/12th inch aluminium, and round them off . A hole saw cuts sheaves out of half inch poly cutting board. You can file the groove in it and finish it by puting a 3/8th inch bolt in it, putting it in a dril chuck and using the drill as a lathe. A 3/8th inch stainless bolt makes a good pin, far stronger than that on mosty commercially made blocks . Another pin with a short pipe spacer makes the becket end, or you can leave both sides attached by a 1 1/4 inch wide strip, and bend it into a block.


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## Brent Swain

Motorcycle crates or window crates come in fine tropical hardwoods, free for the taking.


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## Sir Francis Drake

Newbie on Sailnet, really enjoying the site and this thread in particular. Here's a low-buck concept for kids: My daughter is 13 and has outgrown her jungle gym. But she loves sitting up in the bow of our boat and watching the sea glide by. I made a bow perch for her using the seat from her swing. It's one of those indestructible ones made of heavy yellow rubbery plastic with heavy stainless chain running through it. I suspended it in the pulpit using some surplus stainless hardware. It's a comfy seat, impervious to weather, and also makes a great spot to handle the anchor from. 

The jungle gym was purchased used in 2004 for $30. I sold the slide a few years ago for the same amount. So the seat is free (but that's in Canadian dollars).

Can't post photos yet, apparently.


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## AllThumbs

I posted this a while back in another thread but I think it also belongs in this one:

I made a new tiller. First I laminated a bunch of 1/8" plywood (door skin) at the right swoop (shape). Here it is shown after curing. It was clamped tightly while it cured. If I remember I also used electrical tape to squeeze it:
















Once dry I cut out a tiller shape:
















Then sanded it to final shape:








Lots of varnish:

















Some might say door skin is the wrong material to start with as it's an indoor material. This tiller has been in service for 3 seasons and still looks the same as it did new (out in the rain and sun). I gave it an extra few coats of water based varnish last winter, but that was just to keep it looking new and nicely sealed. I do believe the material is so thin and porous it absorbs the epoxy clean through when laminating.


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## Faster

Can't believe you were allowed to do that in the kitchen  Nice job.


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## AllThumbs

Faster said:


> Can't believe you were allowed to do that in the kitchen  Nice job.


I was allowed to take the pictures in the kitchen.


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## Multihullgirl

Installing a UV stickyback sacrificial panel, lofting on the dining room table:


----------



## Brent Swain

Bicycle inner tubes, looped over a cleat, make a great exercise machine, one you can carry in your pack sack.


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## polaris2.11

I've used bicycle inner tubes filled with sand to weigh down skeeter netting over deck hatches.


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## Multihullgirl

speaking of screen weights, I use marbles for that


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## Minnesail

Multihullgirl said:


> speaking of screen weights, I use marbles for that


I lost my marbles.


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## Faster

Multihullgirl said:


> speaking of screen weights, I use marbles for that


.... and we've simply sewn a length of yachtbraid into the edges....



Minnesail said:


> I lost my marbles.


.. that's why we used rope!!


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## Multihullgirl

but the problem with sand, and with line, is that if either/both get wet, they'll tend to hold the dampness. Marbles, lead weights or chain, not so much

Now, putting the stuff inside of the tubing, that might forestall the damp issues


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## Brent Swain

Strips of innertube make great gluing clamps. Be careful. Too much can crush wood.


----------



## Andrew65

Minnesail said:


> I lost my marbles.


Many here have lost their marbles Minnesail. You're in good company.

My Mantus anchor bridle cost me 21USD. The Mantus chain hook cost 15 and the SS 14mm thimble coast me 6. The 36m of 5/8 line for two 18m lengths I got from the dumpster. It's still is in good shape. Why someone threw it out, I'll never understand. The chafing gear is old fire hose. The SS shackle I've had forever laying around just waiting.

I know it's a bit long, but it can double as a towing line too. Plus, It can always be shorten with new eyes spliced and still remain in service.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

You could use a bench grinder with a large buffing pad to polish bolts...

but a $4 socket adapter works out as a pretty good alternative.
(doing this as part of chainplate replacement)


----------



## Cap-Couillon

My buddy David has problems getting his 60# dink outboard on and off the mother ship, and didn't want to pay $400-500 for a commercial OB lifting davit.

A little "cajun injuneering", a trip to the big box store, about $65, and a couple of hours later, we had this...










All 3/4" galv pipe, "off the shelf" parts. 
2 tees
1 elbow 90
2 street elbows 45
1 union
5 pieces threaded pipe

Davit slips through a sleeve mounted to the top rail of the pushpit and sits in a wood "cup" mounted to the toe rail. When you are done moving OB you can unscrew the lower section of pipe, and stow below decks.


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## Multihullgirl

mais Couillon,

don' let nobody tell you you ain' no ****-ass, you, ha ha


----------



## Cap-Couillon

Yeah, I even got dem paper to prove it me...
C'est sa Couillon


----------



## SloopJonB

Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> You could use a bench grinder with a large buffing pad to polish bolts...
> 
> but a $4 socket adapter works out as a pretty good alternative.
> (doing this as part of chainplate replacement)
> 
> Bolt Polishing - YouTube


Anyone who wants to keep their shiny bits shiny should spend $40 at HF for a proper 1/2 horse bench buffer. Mine is very smooth & quiet and works great. The attached before & after pics took about 20 minutes.


----------



## randyrhines

bljones said:


> In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
> Here's the rules:
> 
> 1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.
> 
> 2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.
> 
> 3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity.
> 
> Here's one of mine:
> 
> I needed a cockpit table. Well, I, personally, didn't need a cockpit table, but the admiral did, and I need a warm place to sleep, so you can see how the stars aligned on this one. I sussed out commercially available, marine priced cockpit tables and promptly gagged. So, I thought to myself, "self, you could make it yourself for a lot less." One problem. Well, four actually. I have limited woodworking skills, limited woodworking tools, and limited time. oh yeah, and I am cheap.
> So, I went to plan "c".
> 
> I spent some time eyeballing the cockpit in question:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I moseyed into action. I bought one of these for $29.99
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A frenzy of measuring, remeasuring, cutting, screwing, drinking, varnishing, etc. later, and this is how it finished up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see yours.


 very nice


----------



## Cap-Couillon

*Re: Low buck projects- Let's see 'em! (Instrument Panel)*

Finishing up the wiring project on the Solitaire and the next step was a bulkhead instrument panel. Needed a place to mount the Hawkeye depth finder, Garmin 126 GPS and a future location for the new Standard Horizon GX 2200 (when I get it).

Panel is a simple piece of Starboard placed as to cover up the 5" dia hole where the dead bulkhead compass used to live (had to replace with a cheap john surface mount as 400 bucks is better spent elsewhere).

Still had gaping hole in interior cockpit bulkhead and needed a space to mount the breakout board for the db9 connector I am using to connect a ftdi based serial to usb cable between the cockpit GPS and the ships laptop in the navsta.

Breakout board









Much easier than soldering up a DB9 (has screw terminals) and for 5 bucks well worth it to me.

Cable









A trip to the big box store 30 minutes away came up with a watertight pvc junction box. 6"x6" with o-ring sealed cover for 15 bucks. Lots of room inside for terminal block and connections. 


















Also made a handy place to mount a three-hole cigarette lighter plug. Need to plug in the 12V power supply for the laptop.

Discovered the 7 pin connector on the back of the GPS had a couple of broken pins (little son of a guns). Replacement plug at the local marine electronics shop was $29.... No way, this is low bucks right?

Quick search came up with this









$2.79 w/ free shipping... much heavier pins, 7" pigtails and I only need 4 pins to make the connection (B+ Ground NMEA in NMEA out). A little time with a tiny screw driver and a soldering iron and we have a new watertight plug. 
Return
Last issue was no "sun cover" for the GPS. While the unit is water tight, the UV takes its toll over time. Even though it is a surface mount, I don't plan to remove it every time I stop for a while....

Solution









Had an old disposable food storage container I had been using for paint that looked about the right size. Snapped right on just like it was made for it. 
Not purty, but effective and should kill the UV.

Parts cost and sources:

$4.95 DB9 Breakout Board (free shipping)
$16.99 Sabrent SBT-FTDI serial to usb cable (free shipping)
$15.00 Carlon 6" watertight junction box (Local BigBox store)
$2.79  Four Pin Watertight Connector (free shipping)
Total... $39.73 (Food storage container was free)


----------



## SloopJonB

*Re: Low buck projects- Let's see 'em! (Instrument Panel)*



Cap-Couillon said:


> Panel is a simple piece of Starboard placed as to cover up the 5" dia hole where the dead bulkhead compass used to live (had to replace with a cheap john surface mount as 400 boat bucks is better spent elsewhere).


You were considering some mighty expensive compasses - a boat buck is generally regarded as $1000.


----------



## tschmidty

I see it more referred to as $100


----------



## asdf38

tschmidty said:


> I see it more referred to as $100


Depends on the size of the boat.


----------



## Cap-Couillon

Edited (changed boat bucks, to bucks) it to reduce debate....

In my world, boat-bucks = bucks available to be spent on the boat, vs food, rum, mooring fees, etc. Always less available than i would like, hence participation in this thread. Low bucks solutions to real world stuff.

Next project please?


----------



## rmeador

I've always considered "boat buck" to be $1000. You know what "boat" stands for, right? Break Out Another Thousand! 

With the exception of the project I published a while ago and changing engine oil, I don't think I've ever had a boat project come in under $700


----------



## Capt Len

Must be tough! Thane's entire standing rigging including deadeyes was $5.00 long story how that came about but her masts cost nada. Some labour involved.


----------



## Brent Swain

I once bought enough rigging wire to rig a 36 footer for $24.


----------



## SloopJonB

The difference between "yacht" and "workboat".


----------



## Capt Len

Some jumped on me for not spending big bucks on rigging wire so I'll tell a little story. Once upon a time I got a real deal on a huge spool of rigging wire. Since it was too heavy to take down the dock I just cut measured lengths off and took each one to the boat to splice. I'd cut all I needed when one night a bunch of guys unreeled the remaining wire off the spool and into their truck when I asked them what they were doing. Not being particularly cooperative, I suggested that they open their collective wallets and see if they could make a deal. Turns out they had $5 less than the roll had cost me . So, My rigging wire was fairly inexpensive So, as for not tying along side you ,no fear . the likelihood of me spending any time in your or any marina is nill. and if you are inclined to jump to erroneous conclusions about the quality of workmanship based on your own sad experiences and expenses I just figure you don't know squat and not likely to improve.


----------



## TakeFive

Not a boat project, but inspired by my experience with jacklines and tethers.

Pekoe, our little 14-year-old toy poodle, has completely lost her hearing. Unable to hear the warning beep on her electric fence, she has wandered out into the street a few times. (We removed the zapper electrodes a few years ago for humane reasons.) We tried tying her to a stake in the ground, but she never learned to be on a leash, so she gets hopelessly tangled in it. I rigged a clothesline across our back yard, and lashed her retractable leash to a pulley on it. This keeps the leash off the ground and out of her way. So far, so good!


----------



## Minnesail

TakeFive said:


> Not a boat project, but inspired by my experience with jacklines and tethers.
> 
> Pekoe, our little 14-year-old toy poodle, has completely lost her hearing. Unable to hear the warning beep on her electric fence, she has wandered out into the street a few times. (We removed the zapper electrodes a few years ago for humane reasons.) We tried tying her to a stake in the ground, but she never learned to be on a leash, so she gets hopelessly tangled in it. I rigged a clothesline across our back yard, and lashed her retractable leash to a pulley on it. This keeps the leash off the ground and out of her way. So far, so good!


I've rigged up pretty much the same system with my cats when camping! Campground don't allow off leash pets, but a stationary leash just frustrates the cats. The line 'n leash thing is the solution.

(Yes, I realize I'm a weirdo for taking my cats camping.)


----------



## Capt Len

Easy to rig a bimini when it's raining (dare I say it?) cats and dogs.


----------



## Barquito

I carry my dinghy to the boat on top of my car. However, I don't have a rack for my new car (I didn't plan the color coordination). The factory rack isn't wide enough, and Yakima, Thule, Saris, are too expensive. So, I got a couple of 5' sections of 1 1/4" black 'furniture grade' PVC. It is shiny and doesn't have all the writing on it. Got some caps for the ends. I put hose clamps through the middle of the pipe so that when I put the dinghy on I can slide it across without hanging up on anything. It is a little flexible, but, works fine.


----------



## SloopJonB

Just for future reference, that "writing" all over PVC tubing simply wipes off with a rag dampened with lacquer thinner.


----------



## the_abuse

fiberglass rollers

made 3 rollers today one big 6-8" (cant remember) and 2 3" with different roller sizes

made them from a paint roller from the dollar store and left over threaded rod that was never gonna get used

total cost each $2 but you could make your own for $5-10 for the cost of the roller and rod and a nut

i used one of them tonight and it worked just like any off the shelf roller for a fraction of the cost. Theres also no where near me that had them and i needed some at home


----------



## bblument

tschmidty said:


> I see it more referred to as $100


That's a boat dime.


----------



## Capt Len

So easy to go over budget when you don't know the value of money!


----------



## miatapaul

the_abuse said:


> fiberglass rollers
> 
> made 3 rollers today one big 6-8" (cant remember) and 2 3" with different roller sizes
> 
> made them from a paint roller from the dollar store and left over threaded rod that was never gonna get used
> 
> total cost each $2 but you could make your own for $5-10 for the cost of the roller and rod and a nut
> 
> i used one of them tonight and it worked just like any off the shelf roller for a fraction of the cost. Theres also no where near me that had them and i needed some at home


Was that hollow threaded rod? I have never seen that. Or did you drill it out, as that would take a steady hand with a hand drill!


----------



## ggray

Looks almost like a stack of Helicoils


----------



## SloopJonB

There's inventive and frugal and then there's just penny wise cheap - buy a freakin' roller - they only cost a few bucks and last a lifetime - you just burn off the cured resin before using them again.

If you value your time at more than about $0.50/Hr those home made ones cost more than the real thing. I've still got the ones I bought in 1977.


----------



## the_abuse

You can buy hollow threaded rod at most fastener places I had access to a lathe so I drilled it with a very long drill bit


----------



## the_abuse

SloopJonB said:


> There's inventive and frugal and then there's just penny wise cheap - buy a freakin' roller - they only cost a few bucks and last a lifetime - you just burn off the cured resin before using them again.
> 
> If you value your time at more than about $0.50/Hr those home made ones cost more than the real thing. I've still got the ones I bought in 1977.


But if there's no place in your area to buy one and you have to drive over an hour to get one it's not worth it for the 10min it took to drill tap and assemble I saved hours of time and over 100 bucks


----------



## miatapaul

the_abuse said:


> You can buy hollow threaded rod at most fastener places I had access to a lathe so I drilled it with a very long drill bit





the_abuse said:


> But if there's no place in your area to buy one and you have to drive over an hour to get one it's not worth it for the 10min it took to drill tap and assemble I saved hours of time and over 100 bucks


Plus if you have the toys you want to use them! For me with a cordless drill I don't think it would take 10 min!


----------



## the_abuse

Haha may take you an hour lol and not be straight but if you had a drill press and center punch you would be good


----------



## SloopJonB

the_abuse said:


> But if there's no place in your area to buy one and you have to drive over an hour to get one it's not worth it for the 10min it took to drill tap and assemble I saved hours of time and over 100 bucks


Then it falls under the "Inventive" category and gets full marks.


----------



## Cap-Couillon

*Re: Low buck projects- Let's see 'em! (Cheap Transducer)*

Latest low buck project...

Needed a new depth finder, as the 70's vintage "flasher" had seen its day. Purchased a cheap Hawkeye sounder (digital readout only) as the transducer could be mounted inside the hull. Well that didn't work as advertised, and the only location inside the hull that was somewhat horizontal, was aft of the keel. 
Anyway, we needed a thru-hull transducer which was going to cost almost twice the original purchase price. Hawkeye would credit the difference which was nice, but put the project on the shelf.

Now that we are about ready to go, the project got moved to the top of the list. Hauled out yesterday, and took a look at the old transducer, which has hidden under some salon drawers. Much easier to see from the outside.

Nice deep fairing block, old but in good enougn shape to pattern from. The old transducer was bronze and weighs all of 2 lbs.

After removing everything, made a dupe of the original fairing block. Cut the threaded bronze mount tube off the old transducer and drilled out the epoxy fill.

The new epoxy molded transducer has top castings to fit the included transom mount that stand about 3/8 inch proud of the top of the transducer. 
Chiseled a hollow in the new mahogany fairing block to fit the castings with some extra clearance. Threaded the mount tube into the fairing block, passed the cable through, and plugged the inboard end with a bit of butyl tape (temporary). Checked to make sure the new transducer fit flat into the fairing block, and mixed up about 3oz of Raka Epoxy. Lifted the transducer just enough to pour in the epoxy and kept filling till the mount tube and the cavity were full. Then pressed the transducer into its home, and used the overflow and extra to seal all sides of the block.

Everything gets gooped with 5200 in the AM,, and stuffed in the hole. All recycled material. Total cost, maybe a dollar for the epoxy and a chip brush.










Old bronze transducer after tubectomy. New tube grafted to fairing block / transducer.









Bottom view... I think I can live with the drag.


----------



## Ritchard

Is there a reason you didn't just put the bolt in the chuck of the drill, and forget about the socket adapter and socket?



Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> You could use a bench grinder with a large buffing pad to polish bolts...
> 
> but a $4 socket adapter works out as a pretty good alternative.
> (doing this as part of chainplate replacement)
> 
> Bolt Polishing - YouTube


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

Ritchard said:


> Is there a reason you didn't just put the bolt in the chuck of the drill, and forget about the socket adapter and socket?


Bolts are a little larger than the drill would accept.


----------



## Ritchard

Fair enough. Still a good idea.



Rhapsody-NS27 said:


> Bolts are a little larger than the drill would accept.


----------



## deltaten

Tired of burning up AAA batts in my LED "track" lighting; I set about to source a power supply. Rummaging around in the bin, I spied one of those component phone charger cig plugs. 5 v in either 1 a or 2 a via USB plug. A few minutes w/the VTVM and polarity was determined. SOlder up the leads to the connector and GtG!

Wired 'em up this weekend and Wallah!
Bright and never-ending power for three, four head, three LEDs per, track lights

Cost?? Well,tthe Stop'n'Rob has 'em in parts'sets for near $6; so I suppose tthatt's less than a C note!  A bit of wire and solder here on hand. Now, to route the witre between tthe inner liner and the overhead 'glass!!


----------



## Multihullgirl

I've done various things round the boat...some of which might be over $100 (depending on who you know/source for materials). For me, they weren't.

First, the new sheet organizers. 3M 'Command' cordholders. These do get sun, and have lasted over a year. The 'sticky' gets brittle and will need occasional replacing. To prep, wipe the surface with acetone, and then apply the sticky tab as per directions:

















Second, the rotten wall/bulkhead(ish) divider between the head and the cockpit storage locker. The hatch above it was allowed to leak, and the area, being wood, rotted. So I cut out the bad. Husband laminated a bit of foam core with glass cloth, and laid it in. Voilá:

































Third, the hatch levelling. This hatch is installed on a curved surface and apparently had, for a very long time, never been solved for leaks. When we pulled the hatch out, there was a lot of chipped gelcoat on the lateral sides, so it may be that the levelling we did, was a re-do. In any case, the solution was to remove the hatch. Prep and tape off the area. Wax the hatch frame/or apply mold release, but we used floor wax. Mix up bog, which in our case was mostly fairing filler with some silica. Apply bog around the perimeter/areas where the hatch didn't have a level base. Set hatch frame on the bog, and fair the bog between the hatch frame and the 'coachroof'. When cured, pull the frame off, and check the bogged area for fill and voids - fair as necessary. Clean the wax off the frame (! ha ha) Paint the new hatch substrate, and install hatch. It is supposed to rain next week, I'll let you know if this didn't work 

























Finally, if y'all have not got bored and irritated, is the galley 'reno.' I was sick sh!tless of the tile that had been installed. It was heavy, and frankly I think tile isn't something that should be used as a surface in food prep areas. In any case, I removed the tile, sanded the surface, cleaned it with acetone. Made patterns, because as you may note, there is a fiddle round the outer edges. Purchased some laminate (WilsonArt 'Sea Glass'). Cut to fit with a cutting wheel - laminate is vicious for chipping out. Installed, cut out sink and faucet holes, voilá again:

































Except the galley bit, because I bought a fairly large sheet of higher-end laminate, none of these were over $100, since we did ourselves. Well, I might have to visit the doctor for the cricked-up old bones after contorting myself to do the hatch and the galley 

Hope this is useful


----------



## SloopJonB

I've used that hatch technique and it worked perfectly. I wrapped the hatch frame in packing tape first and it came away clean - no need to wax anything. I just retained it with one screw top & bottom at the high point of the curve it was sitting on and then mooshed thickened epoxy under the frame with a tongue depressor. Like you, I removed the hatch after cure and filled the voids then sanded & painted.


----------



## Puddin'_Tain

thereefgeek said:


> Thanks guys. Those port pics were after a once-over with Flitz. Ive tried vinegar on the bronze, but it seems to take forever and a day to soak off 38 years of "patina".
> 
> Something else I've tried, and it's way less toxic than the hydrochloric acid in the Clorox toilet bowl cleaner is a soak in CLR (Calcium Lime & Rust cleaner available at Home Depot). More aggressive than vinegar, yet less acidic than HCl. Don't use it on brass, but it works great on bronze. You should still wear gloves, and a Scotchbrite pad scrubbing helps speed things along. The metal turns pink in the soak after it cuts through the green and still needs a good rinse afterward, before a final polish with Flitz but here's a before & after using CLR on the cowl vents on our Tayana 37:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my blog in my sig line...


Call me weird (you wouldn't be the first), but I kinda like the patina of old weathered bronze.


----------



## Multihullgirl

SloopJonB said:


> I've used that hatch technique and it worked perfectly. I wrapped the hatch frame in packing tape first and it came away clean - no need to wax anything.


Packing tape, or you could use Saran Wrap too, but that's a lot of plastic and more difficult than applying the wax


----------



## mitiempo

Multihullgirl said:


> Packing tape, or you could use Saran Wrap too, but that's a lot of plastic and more difficult than applying the wax


But easier to remove.


----------



## Multihullgirl

mitiempo said:


> But easier to remove.


apparently, my smiley was confusing. I just wanted to make sure to remember to remove the wax. I simply wiped the frame with acetone, which is something you really want to do regardless, to make sure you get good adhesion when bedding with your sealant


----------



## deniseO30

Been awhile since I've posted here!

The "leg vise" on my bench build project. 
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/off-topic/104786-roubo-bench-build.html

Was about $100 for the 1.25" acme rod and 8" cast iron wheel. 
The machinist charged me $75 to mount the wheel perfectly. 

No really high bucks but not really low.. UNTIL one compares the cost of DIY engineering to "Benchrafters" leg vise hardware coming in at nearly $400!









How do they compare?


----------



## Capt Len

Large Acme threaded rods are found in large gate valves in the metal recycle yard. Comes with attached wheel. About a dollar a pound. You'd need a saw to cut off the matching threaded cross bar. Nice job anyway.


----------



## SailSoCal

Added the go anywhere seats with seat backs to the cockpit. Wait until they are on sale. May not qualify as a project, but they made a huge difference in comfort at anchor.


----------



## the_abuse

Got pics of them or a website link never seen these before


----------



## edguy3

the_abuse said:


> Got pics of them or a website link never seen these before


See the various models here


----------



## Barquito

I found that just having a cheap stadium chair that can cradle your legs helps a lot. It's like a rocking chair.


----------



## Minnesail

Barquito said:


> I found that just having a cheap stadium chair that can cradle your legs helps a lot. It's like a rocking chair.


I have one of those made by Crazy Creek:
Crazy Creek Original Chair Lifetime Warranty - camping, backpacking, stadium and logo chairs









I've even canoed the actual Crazy Creek in Wyoming with it. Never thought to take it on a sailboat though.


----------



## Ritchard

I have a couple of those Westmarine go anywhere chairs, but rarely use them as they are so bulky and awkward to stow and retrieve - at least on my boat. comfy, but hardly worthwhile in our case.


----------



## Barquito

The Low Buck alternative to all these chairs, is to eat $100 of McDonald's food. Then your padding will always be with you.


----------



## Group9

Ritchard said:


> I have a couple of those Westmarine go anywhere chairs, but rarely use them as they are so bulky and awkward to stow and retrieve - at least on my boat. comfy, but hardly worthwhile in our case.


I have two of the West Marine stadium type seats and we love them. I also have one of the bigger version with the armrests and the cupholder and the shoulder straps. I wish I hadn't bought that one. It's not that comfortable and it takes up a lot of room and it's just not as good as the cheaper stadium model seats.


----------



## SailSoCal

The complaint about the seats taking up room is fair, but on a 8 hour auto pilot trip to Catalina they add nice back support. 

My guest like them also.


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

Barquito said:


> I found that just having a cheap stadium chair that can cradle your legs helps a lot. It's like a rocking chair.


not sure how this is DIY but?
I guess it keeps the thread alive.


bljones said:


> In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
> Here's the rules:
> 
> 1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.
> 
> 2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.
> 
> 3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity.
> 
> Let's see yours.


----------



## Barquito

> not sure how this is DIY but?
> I guess it keeps the thread alive.


That's true, but, it is a low buck solution.


----------



## ccriders

Barquito said:


> That's true, but, it is a low buck solution.


And, it repurposes something you already have letting you put that $100 into something else.
John


----------



## Multihullgirl

My "low buck" version of the fancy (and heavy) WM adjustable seat are these big pillows that I stuff with dollar-store dog beds. Normally they live in the salon as pictured, but whenever and wherever I want, I throw them into the pit, or nets.

Cloth is fabric-store synthetic, but you could use Sunbrella (stiff) or Sunbrella Furniture Fabric (less stiff, more for the purpose) as the cover. When salty or dirty, just take the stuffing out and wash the whole lot.


----------



## __floater__

TakeFive said:


> I won't use it. I was just warning others to be careful about what they do, because it will cause problems with many types of LEDs, especially the cheap ones.
> 
> Common sense may not be sufficient in this case. "Common sense" says you put white light through a green filter and it looks green. But a closer look at the spectral distribution of inexpensive LEDs reveals that they're not "white" in the way that incandescent lights are. LED's emit a few narrow bands of wavelength that blend together to approximate white, but when put through a green filter can actually look like a different color than green. This has been shown by many to be a problem, and I was pointing that out.
> 
> I agree that this could be very nice for applications where color fidelity is not important. Red/green nav lights, not so much.


FYI
Last year I changed every light on my boat over to LED with VERY inexpensive lamps (bulbs) off eBay.
When it came to the nav lights I expected problems with variation in colour due to the temperature of the lamp used.
I ordered several temperatures of "festoon" lamps (which my nav lights require) and found a temperature of 2700k (Kelvins) produced the identical lens colour as the original incandescent lamps. I found if I inserted a lamp with a higher temp, it turned the lens bluer.
I also bought two 12" strips of "cool" (4000k) waterproof LED lights which had good quality 3M tape already in place for installation. They now live on the underside of my spreaders and bathe the deck in moonlight. They lay so flat they're almost invisible in the daytime.
Cost was $7 each! I had to fish wires up my mast and out throuh 3/8" holes inside the spreader socket. I then put shielded spade connectors so I can pull the spreaders after dropping the mast. I drilled a 1/8" hole at the inner end of the positioned LED strip and tucked the tiny wires through the hold before peeling the tape and sticking the strips permanently to the spreader. I attached larger wire to the tiny pigtail wire and tucked the splice deep inside the spreader so I only deal with larger wire. Helps avoid breakage. I had a spare pin on my deck socket for power.









To change every lamp onboard (approximately24 lamps) the cost was under $50. My cabin lights originally had High/Low/High+Low positions on the switches, so I bought red LED's for one side of the switches and now have cabin lighting that won't ruin my night vision.
The best part, my batteries last much longer between charges 
I highly recommend LED conversion. Just look at your nav lights and make sure they are as close to the original tint as possible. The lamps are so cheap it's no expense to mess around.


----------



## Barquito

I'm going to get some LED strips! That looks great. There has been some discussion about using LED for NAV lights.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/seamanship-navigation/71599-dangers-led-navigation-lights.html


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

__floater__ said:


> FYI
> Last year I changed every light on my boat over to LED with VERY inexpensive lamps (bulbs) off eBay.
> When it came to the nav lights I expected problems with variation in colour due to the temperature of the lamp used.
> I ordered several temperatures of "festoon" lamps (which my nav lights require) and found a temperature of 2700k (Kelvins) produced the identical lens colour as the original incandescent lamps. I found if I inserted a lamp with a higher temp, it turned the lens bluer.
> I also bought two 12" strips of "cool" (4000k) waterproof LED lights which had good quality 3M tape already in place for installation. They now live on the underside of my spreaders and bathe the deck in moonlight. They lay so flat they're almost invisible in the daytime.
> Cost was $7 each! I had to fish wires up my mast and out throuh 3/8" holes inside the spreader socket. I then put shielded spade connectors so I can pull the spreaders after dropping the mast. I drilled a 1/8" hole at the inner end of the positioned LED strip and tucked the tiny wires through the hold before peeling the tape and sticking the strips permanently to the spreader. I attached larger wire to the tiny pigtail wire and tucked the splice deep inside the spreader so I only deal with larger wire. Helps avoid breakage. I had a spare pin on my deck socket for power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To change every lamp onboard (approximately24 lamps) the cost was under $50. My cabin lights originally had High/Low/High+Low positions on the switches, so I bought red LED's for one side of the switches and now have cabin lighting that won't ruin my night vision.
> The best part, my batteries last much longer between charges
> I highly recommend LED conversion. Just look at your nav lights and make sure they are as close to the original tint as possible. The lamps are so cheap it's no expense to mess around.


OK I'm convinced will have to do those too


----------



## travlin-easy

I purchased a couple 16-foot, solar-powered, rope lights, attached one to each of the toe rails, lights up the entire side of the boat while I'm anchored. All too often, those LED anchor lights look like a bright star on a clear night, and with no moon you would be hard pressed to determine there was a boat anchored beneath that light/star. Unfortunately, in order to meet USCG requirements for anchor lights, the top of the mast is the only location where there is 360 degrees of unobstructed view. Sure makes a lot more sense to me to light up the entire damned boat - no doubt about whether or not there's a boat in front on you when coming into an anchorage in the middle of the night. And, in this part of the world, there seems to be a whole lot of folks that tend to ignore the law when it comes to turning on the anchor light. About half or more don't bother to turn them on.

Just got a Black Friday advertisement from Harbor Freight Tools - 22-footd, solar-powered, rope lights for $9.99. Outstanding price - gonna buy a couple spares tomorrow. The sale is good till Monday.










Gary


----------



## Multihullgirl

Davis Megalight LED has been a good investment - use as cockpit light or as extra anchor light. Around $50 IIRC


----------



## TakeFive

I stumbled across a useful little $1 item called a "Tarp Shark":








It's a bit of a stretch calling this a "project," but it does allow me to take an inexpensive square tarp and get it to conform to the contours of my boat, so by saving the cost of a custom tarp, it is a low-bucks project:


























This is one item that is less expensive at Home Depot than it is online. For $0.97 you can afford to use as many of these as you need.


----------



## danceswithtiger

TakeFive said:


> I stumbled across a useful little $1 item called a "Tarp Shark":
> 
> This is one item that is less expensive at Home Depot than it is online. For $0.97 you can afford to use as many of these as you need.


Those look really useful. Unfortunately not available online or in the stores around here (western NY. I also checked northern NJ, and western PA, but no luck.)

They do have these EasyKlip for about the same price, but they don't look nearly as adjustable (or as cool). Will check them out next time I'm in the store.

Dave


----------



## TomandKarens34

Home made radar mount. Built from aluminum conduit and stainless steel. There was some welding but most of it could be bolted together if you were so inclined.



This pic shows how the conduit was bent to go around the stern rails, and inside it was bent to follow the angle of the transom.



Most are familiar with the compression feral in the Dremel chuck. It is a barrel shape with cuts made in the cylinder so it may be compressed around the bit shaft. I built the same idea to clamp to the base of the mast and used big u bolts to compress the cylinder around the mast. That cylinder was welded to stainless 1/4 X 1 1/2 flat stock, which was glassed to the hull. It is very strong and the mast requires no supports. Skipping the extra supports really helps clean up the clutter in the stern. 
I have $80 in it, not counting the radar !


----------



## mbianka

Had a space in the cockpit cubby that once held a now defunct LORAN receiver. Was thinking what to do with the space. This past summer I made a junction box and ammeter panel to see how the solar panels are performing:
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: ANOTHER SOLAR PROJECT: Cockpit Ammeter Junction Box
Helps to help minimize boom shadow on the panels when at anchor.


----------



## __floater__

jimgo said:


> Tim,
> Another idea is to use pool noodles. Our dollar store had them. They are a bit thicker, and more comfortable than the pipe insulation (I did the pipe insulation on my old boat).


The first couple years I used pool noodles I found the constant weight of elbows relaxing on the lifelines eventually caused the line itself to cut into - and eventually through - the noodle. The solution was an old garden hose cut the same length as the noodle. I inserted it through the length of the noodle first, then passed the lifeline through the garden hose.
I know they're only a few bucks, but having them break through with a crowd aboard won't happen again.

EDIT: I have been using the noodles "naked"...meaning I've had no cover on them. Sunbrella is pricey and I don't sew, so I have been trying to come up with a ready-made noodle cover to match my cushions. I was in the dollar store a few weeks back and saw kid's leotard leggings in a variety of colors so I bought a pair that went well with my cushion colour. These are the heavier "knitted" type leggings, not the thin "nylon" type.
I havent tried fitting them yet, but I thougth I could either cut them at the toe and near the crotch with a "hot knife" to keep them from unravelling, then use a sail needle to weave twine around the circumfrence of each end to form a drawstring -or- simply tuck the ends inside the garden hose with some adhesive.
I'll post pics with results in the spring.


----------



## MedSailor

mbianka said:


> Had a space in the cockpit cubby that once held a now defunct LORAN receiver. Was thinking what to do with the space. This past summer I made a junction box and ammeter panel to see how the solar panels are performing:
> THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: ANOTHER SOLAR PROJECT: Cockpit Ammeter Junction Box
> Helps to help minimize boom shadow on the panels when at anchor.


Being able to see the analog ammeter from the cockpit so you can reposition the solar panels is a great idea! Thanks! Now if I can only get the boat to sit still...

MedSailor


----------



## newhaul

Yesterday I replaced two 15 watt and one 25 watt incandescent with a 7.2 watt led light in the galley. And a 3.5 watt light in the passageway and head dad wanted brighter lighting so 55 watts incandescent changed to about 14 watts led cutting power usage by about 75% and the lights cost me 38 bucks deliverd.


----------



## newhaul

__floater__ said:


> The first couple years I used pool noodles I found the constant weight of elbows relaxing on the lifelines eventually caused the line itself to cut into - and eventually through - the noodle. The solution was an old garden hose cut the same length as the noodle. I inserted it through the length of the noodle first, then passed the lifeline through the garden hose.
> I know they're only a few bucks, but having them break through with a crowd aboard won't happen again.
> 
> EDIT: I have been using the noodles "naked"...meaning I've had no cover on them. Sunbrella is pricey and I don't sew, so I have been trying to come up with a ready-made noodle cover to match my cushions. I was in the dollar store a few weeks back and saw kid's leotard leggings in a variety of colors so I bought a pair that went well with my cushion colour. These are the heavier "knitted" type leggings, not the thin "nylon" type.
> I havent tried fitting them yet, but I thougth I could either cut them at the toe and near the crotch with a "hot knife" to keep them from unravelling, then use a sail needle to weave twine around the circumfrence of each end to form a drawstring -or- simply tuck the ends inside the garden hose with some adhesive.
> I'll post pics with results in the spring.


My kids use socks to cover their swords for larping and boffering Google it


----------



## miatapaul

__floater__ said:


> The first couple years I used pool noodles I found the constant weight of elbows relaxing on the lifelines eventually caused the line itself to cut into - and eventually through - the noodle. The solution was an old garden hose cut the same length as the noodle. I inserted it through the length of the noodle first, then passed the lifeline through the garden hose.
> I know they're only a few bucks, but having them break through with a crowd aboard won't happen again.
> 
> EDIT: I have been using the noodles "naked"...meaning I've had no cover on them. Sunbrella is pricey and I don't sew, so I have been trying to come up with a ready-made noodle cover to match my cushions. I was in the dollar store a few weeks back and saw kid's leotard leggings in a variety of colors so I bought a pair that went well with my cushion colour. These are the heavier "knitted" type leggings, not the thin "nylon" type.
> I havent tried fitting them yet, but I thougth I could either cut them at the toe and near the crotch with a "hot knife" to keep them from unravelling, then use a sail needle to weave twine around the circumfrence of each end to form a drawstring -or- simply tuck the ends inside the garden hose with some adhesive.
> I'll post pics with results in the spring.


I have heard of people using PVC pipe in the center, but not very flexible, I bet the PEX would work quite well as a liner, and is more flexible.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

__floater__ said:


> The first couple years I used pool noodles I found the constant weight of elbows relaxing on the lifelines eventually caused the line itself to cut into - and eventually through - the noodle. The solution was an old garden hose cut the same length as the noodle. I inserted it through the length of the noodle first, then passed the lifeline through the garden hose.
> I know they're only a few bucks, but having them break through with a crowd aboard won't happen again.
> 
> EDIT: I have been using the noodles "naked"...meaning I've had no cover on them. Sunbrella is pricey and I don't sew, so I have been trying to come up with a ready-made noodle cover to match my cushions. I was in the dollar store a few weeks back and saw kid's leotard leggings in a variety of colors so I bought a pair that went well with my cushion colour. These are the heavier "knitted" type leggings, not the thin "nylon" type.
> I havent tried fitting them yet, but I thougth I could either cut them at the toe and near the crotch with a "hot knife" to keep them from unravelling, then use a sail needle to weave twine around the circumfrence of each end to form a drawstring -or- simply tuck the ends inside the garden hose with some adhesive.
> I'll post pics with results in the spring.


If anyone's IS interested in making Sunbrella (or any other brand canvas) covers for their lifelines, I wrote up complete instructions in Lifeline cushions solution on my blog.

Since I made them out of Sunbrella scraps that I already had on hand, they only cost me for the pipe insulation, a whopping $1.94 for each side.


----------



## Tomas Kruska

Not sure if this project was already here, but I've fixed the Volvo Penta hour meter LCD instrument which is blind over a few years on many boats.
Costs around $20.



















More photos on my blog


----------



## Multihullgirl

Volvo hour-meter repair:

The LCD module is connected to the main circuit board via a flat ribbon cable. The problem is poor contact between the pads of the ribbon cable and the board receptacle. Lever up each end of the receptacle to release pressure on the cable and pull it out. Lightly clean the pads of the end of the ribbon cable with contact cleaner. You may also need to get a little contact cleaner inside the receptacle. Fully dry each with heatgun/hairdryer before reconnecting. Be careful when doing that as you don't want to overheat the ribbon cable.


----------



## Tomas Kruska

I suspected that too, but it did not helped. Also leaving it to dry helped to see a fractions of the digits. I suspect the problem is on the contacts between the ribbon cable and the LCD glass. Unfortunately, I'm not able to fix that.


----------



## StormBay

Here is a low buck project that I came up with as a way to stow our two bulky/heavy cast-iron skillets in a previously unusable space. A couple of hooks, a cheep leather belt from Marshalls, two snaps, and a few screws and they are out of the way and securely held in place.


----------



## __floater__

With upgrades and additions to my electrical system, my switch panel(s) were not only an eyesore, they were becoming incapable and potentially unsafe.

I bought switches and fuseholders off eBay for less than $50, drew up my own design for the desired panel in PaintshopPro and had an engraving shop to their thing for $40. I already had the meter in a junk box.

During installation I took the opportunity to clean up corroded wire ends, sort out overloads and generally tidy everything up.

Now I have a one-of-a-kind panel that suits my needs perfectly.

Before:


After:


----------



## __floater__

When I bought my boat it had no electric bilge pump. Beneath a hatch in the cabin sole was a cavity stuffed with rags. Once I removed them I realized I had a perfect spot for my new pump in the lowest possible place on the boat (I have an encapsulated keel so likely a different layout than a boat with a bolt-on keel).
I wanted to keep the pump and float switch upright and stable and also easily removed for inspection/replacement.

I had a small sheet of stainless sheet metal in the garage and went to work with a zip disc and after 30 minutes and a few stainless rivets I had a "stand" for my bilge pump and float.

Empty cavity:


Completed "stand":



In place:


I'd imagine a sheet of aluminum would have worked just as well. Either way, the cost to buy if you don't have it laying around would not exceed $50.


----------



## the_abuse

I like the panel watch those gauges I bought some before for my car and the accuracy is hit and miss


----------



## SloopJonB

I like the platform for the pump & switch - what was the thinking behind having it elevated above the low point?


----------



## the_abuse

Agreed why not mount it to a flat piece


----------



## __floater__

Water ballast.






















There is a garboard plug at the bottom of the keel sump and the release lever on the plug sits about 3/4" above the bottom of the sump, meaning a flat platform would not have sat securely. I am sure if anyone wanted to make something similar they could easily leave the "legs" off the base.


----------



## snodawg

Very nice and functional improvement on the electrical panel!


----------



## Barquito

Floater - 

I really like that panel! What kind of meter is that?


----------



## the_abuse

Volt there cheap on eBay meant for automotive but fine for marine because their sealed


----------



## __floater__

Barquito said:


> Floater -
> 
> I really like that panel! What kind of meter is that?


It was made with 3/16" black-on-white engraving plastic. Any engraving shop will carry this material in a variety of colours, thicknesses and finishes in both interior and exterior grades, in addition to metals and composites.
The place I went to offered to make the panel out of painted aluminum on which they laser etch the details. It would have been double the price but admittedly would have looked more "factory".

EDIT: You said "meter"...not "material".
My eyes are worn out.
EVO. I think it came off eBay.


----------



## Minnesail

This isn't exactly sailing related, but it is a low buck project.

My brake lights were out, so I just used a coffee can and one of those battery power headlamps. Whenever I brake the headlamp slides forward, hits the switch, and turns on. Works great.









There, I Fixed It


----------



## the_abuse

Not duck tape use tuck tape at least it's red


----------



## sciencebum

As close as I can get to this conversation is The first bit of mcguyver maintenance I've ever done on my new boat. I needed to grease the slides for the slugs of the mainsail, but I wanted it nice and slidey, so I could easily hoist and confidently drop single handed. 

So instead of just greasing the slugs, I took a bit of cord just smaller than the slide, and tied a figure 8 to make a temporary slug. Then I coated the heck out of the knot, and hoisted it up and down to clean and grease the track. Works great now!

Excited to try new ones. Searching the thread for DIY BBQ setups, especially rail mounts!


----------



## Minnesail

SloopJonB said:


> You need some duct tape to hold that coffee can in place and seal it up.


I checked at West Marine, bluewater-rated marine duct tape is $127.99 a roll, that would move the project out of the low-buck thread.


----------



## ggray

SloopJonB said:


> I like the platform for the pump & switch - what was the thinking behind having it elevated above the low point?


Looks like the pump couldn't fit any lower than the height of the platform.


----------



## __floater__

ggray said:


> Looks like the pump couldn't fit any lower than the height of the platform.


That was part of it too. The cavity in the keel sump is (obviously) tapered and I had to cram the pump, float switch, hose and check-valve in there without the float or the hose becoming bound, and raising the works that much gave me the clearance I needed plus lifted everything above the 3/4" high garboard plug that sits at the bottom of the sump.


----------



## dougsiren

anyone have any advice on homemade lazy jacks?


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

Trailerable lazy jacks | The $tingy Sailor
I used a variation of what stingy built ... have not tried them yet as i need to go up mast to install one last pair of padeyes


----------



## PaulinVictoria

I made my own on my previous boat, used no shock cord though as I didn't want to replace it every year. It was adjustable and stowable, completely out of the way until it came to dropping the sail, but in reality I hardly ever used it unless I was trying to get the sail down on a real stinker of a day.


----------



## Multihullgirl

My lazy jacks are of 1/8" Amsteel. Have had them for over a year and they look to hold up just fine

Cheek blox on the mast. First line is from boom through cheek blox to bullet blocks. Second line from boom through cheek blox to spliced on rings. Third line from boom through rings back to boom.


----------



## redfishnc

Wanted to mount my Garmin 740 on my pedestal. Box almost 200. We measured and it fit almost perfectly between the bars. 2 SS bolts and 4 SS washers. About a buck and a half. I think it works perfectly.


----------



## dougsiren

thanks for the link to stingysailor, looks like a useful site


----------



## Multihullgirl

The heads have a shelf over the sink, and the sink counter was deeper than it really needed to be. So for about $50 (for both heads), Handsome Husband enclosed the sink counter area below the shelf, making new storage space for towels etc. Doors are of coreplast and the track is aluminium c-channel


----------



## sailordave

Needing a way to secure my one piece washboard for racing I came up w/ this.
The washboard itself is a solid piece of plywood that I made up so it didn't have any air vent louvers.










Cut a brass plated hinge as shown. Drilled a hole in the pin to put a cotter ring in. Got a spring and Circlip at the hardware store and the red HMW plastic I had a scrap in my shop. Couple of stainless screws and some line. Add a piece of high density plastic to mount the hinge on and provide clearance... VOILA.
When I drop the washboard in the pin pushes back and then springs into place locking the washboard in.


----------



## deniseO30

*Knife box and fish cutting board*

I had made this box but was not quite happy with it behind the force 10 stove.









Well I got to thinking and this is what I came up with! Scrap cherry and tiger maple. 
















bread board edge 3/4" mortise and slot 

















Just need come up with a hold down that is not attached to the board since it's a cutting board in actuality.


----------



## SloopJonB

*Re: Knife box and fish cutting board*



deniseO30 said:


> I had made this box but was not quite happy with it behind the force 10 stove.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I got to thinking and this is what I came up with! Scrap cherry and tiger maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bread board edge 3/4" mortise and slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need come up with a hold down that is not attached to the board since it's a cutting board in actuality.


Don't you scratch that workbench!


----------



## deniseO30

SJB did you see the leg vise photos on my build thread? Woodworking is like a dream come true using such a bench! Oh.. yes. already has a few scars in it.


----------



## SloopJonB

Indeed I did - that is one of the sweetest workbenches I've ever seen.

I'm not worthy.


----------



## the_abuse

Picture or link or it never happened


----------



## Barquito

Picture of Denise's workbench?

Here it is:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/off-topic/104786-roubo-bench-build-3.html#post1204401


----------



## Brackish_Beard

Haven't gotten around to making a roller furler but I came across this gem online and figured I'd share it, could save some of you hundred$

Joel's Navigator Site: How to build a roller furler for under $40

And here's a link that helped me make a composting toilet for my vessel. So easy and no hassle, I've read far too many horror stories about conventional heads on boats. Even got the admiration of the USCG haha

Great Composting Toilet Plans For Easy Building


----------



## miatapaul

Brackish_Beard said:


> Haven't gotten around to making a roller furler but I came across this gem online and figured I'd share it, could save some of you hundred$
> 
> Joel's Navigator Site: How to build a roller furler for under $40


don't forget that is for a 15 foot boat, so it may not scale that well up, though Brent Swain claims he can make one for $20.


----------



## deniseO30

*plane from scrap*

left over beechwood from my bench build. 20" long 1-5/8" blade from a bench plane for now. drilled the first hole wrong. Tried to give it a nautical look but it looks like a plain jane. I'll carve the end to look like the handle with a "duck tail" Thing is... IT WORKS! And really WORKS as jointer type plane!

Needs a proper blade and chip breaker. The handle (not attached yet.) I made from white oak copied from a bench plane also. I need a knob for the front.


----------



## SloopJonB

Gawd I feel inadequate. 

If you can make something that nice you should treat yourself to a better tablesaw.


----------



## deniseO30

Thank you all for the compliments and encouragement!

Oh I love that saw! it's a delta contractor saw I've used unisaws which seem about the same mechanically. not as much HP

I made some ribbons just for fun


----------



## deniseO30

I've been doing some band saw R & D whatchaall think of it now?


----------



## the_abuse

Show off haha looks good i dint do much wood stuff but i like it


----------



## SloopJonB

Stop it!

I mean it!



It is nice that you put such a visible glitch on it for us lesser mortals to feel good about.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

Beautiful work Denise.


----------



## deniseO30

Thnks! It was fun!


----------



## SloopJonB

Denise, it looks like you still using oil stones for sharpening? If so, treat yourself to a Japanese water stone.

Trust me, you won't believe how much better they are.


----------



## deniseO30

I have them all actually. 2 diamond, 1 Japan, 2 oil, and a few super fine wet that were sold to barber shops. But I always pull out the diamond hone. I have a water wheel too but an old delta not a tormex.


----------



## Barquito

> I have them all actually. 2 diamond, 1 Japan, 2 oil, and a few super fine wet that were sold to barber shops. But I always pull out the diamond hone. I have a water wheel too but an old delta not a tormex.


Wow. That is all Greek to me... you have a Greek stone too?


----------



## deniseO30

Arkansas stone was what barber shops used


----------



## miatapaul

deniseO30 said:


> I have them all actually. 2 diamond, 1 Japan, 2 oil, and a few super fine wet that were sold to barber shops. But I always pull out the diamond hone. I have a water wheel too but an old delta not a tormex.


I have been thinking about getting a barber hone. I have an old antique straight razor I would like to put to use. But I think I need to send it out to get a really good clean edge to start with. Not many places I can find that will hone them any more.


----------



## deniseO30

Paul there is even diamond lapping paste available now at the high end woodworking stores and sites. Home&Lowes are clueless to fine and even better woodworking. One time I asked the "special order" guy if he could get me clear WRC (western red cedar) he said "whas dat?"


----------



## deniseO30

Last update on Da Plane!


----------



## SloopJonB

I liked the round knob better.

Which one feels better?


----------



## deniseO30

The round for sure


----------



## PorFin

SloopJonB said:


> Denise, it looks like you still using oil stones for sharpening? If so, treat yourself to a Japanese water stone.
> 
> Trust me, you won't believe how much better they are.


Or plate glass and self-adhesive wet/dry sandpaper. I've got a 12" x 24" piece of glass that's got 400g, 600g, 800g along one edge, and 1000g, 1500g, and 2000g along the other. Works like a champ!


----------



## deniseO30

PorFin said:


> Or plate glass and self-adhesive wet/dry sandpaper. I've got a 12" x 24" piece of glass that's got 400g, 600g, 800g along one edge, and 1000g, 1500g, and 2000g along the other. Works like a champ!


Works very well for tuning (flatten) hand plans too! And blades scan be made scary sharp!


----------



## gptyk

PorFin said:


> Or plate glass and self-adhesive wet/dry sandpaper. I've got a 12" x 24" piece of glass that's got 400g, 600g, 800g along one edge, and 1000g, 1500g, and 2000g along the other. Works like a champ!


Granite tiles or top remnants can be used for the glass too. I use a tiny amount of spray adhesive to stick the sandpaper down. Some folks just stick it down with water.

It's definitely scary how sharp it gets planes and chisels - and you never need to flatten a stone.


----------



## PorFin

gptyk said:


> Granite tiles or top remnants can be used for the glass too. I use a tiny amount of spray adhesive to stick the sandpaper down. Some folks just stick it down with water.
> 
> It's definitely scary how sharp it gets planes and chisels - and you never need to flatten a stone.


Yep, I dropped in on a local granite counter top guy and scored a sink cut out for the whopping price of zero dollars. The only draw back is that hunk of stone is massively heavy!


----------



## deniseO30

final..


----------



## Faster

Well since we're off boat projects for the moment, our kids have bought their first place and have to downsize from a fair sized rental house to a condo.. as a result their furniture situation had to change. I've built them a nautical-like L shaped settee with storage under and behind seats, and then adapted their 4 legged table by cutting off the legs and building a pedestal plus a bench for the off side.

No pics of the settee yet (no cushions and not installed at this point) but here's the table mods and the bench. Fortunately (for me) they are into the 'antique/distressed' look so I didn't need to worry about furniture-fine finishing.


----------



## therapy23

PorFin said:


> Or plate glass and self-adhesive wet/dry sandpaper. I've got a 12" x 24" piece of glass that's got 400g, 600g, 800g along one edge, and 1000g, 1500g, and 2000g along the other. Works like a champ!


To further the drift....................

Please forgive my ignorance but please explain glass with 6 sides, where to get that "real" wet-dry sandpaper and how to sharpen a chisel properly.

Thanks.


----------



## PorFin

therapy23 said:


> To further the drift....................
> .


:laugher

OK, not six sides but three 1/4 sheets lined up along each of the two long sides.

3M makes a good w/d paper, and is pretty easy to find in auto parts places. Look in the paint and body section.

If you want self-adhesive paper, shop at some of the online woodworking places. Peachtree has a good selection as I recall.

Sharpening a chisel isn't much different than sharpening a plane iron. It really helps to have a steady hand. Google's got some few decent video's on how to do it (some are better than others.)


----------



## SloopJonB

Fergit the steady hand - get a jig.


----------



## therapy23

Thanks PorFin and Sloop.

My steady hand on chisel sharpening leaves me with a nice curved edge. Would probably need to take a lot of metal off to fix.


----------



## gptyk

therapy23 said:


> To further the drift....................
> 
> Please forgive my ignorance but please explain glass with 6 sides, where to get that "real" wet-dry sandpaper and how to sharpen a chisel properly.
> 
> Thanks.


Google "Scary Sharp" -- that's the slang term for sharpening with sandpaper. There's a bunch of videos and stuff out there.

Get the sandpaper at an auto parts place. (Or a marine supplier, to get this back to nautical talk)

I use a jig to keep the angles right.


----------



## deniseO30

this is the last of the scrap from my bench build. 23" X 11" for a possible kitchen cart/island or on the boat. 









This took too long to make! Now my scary sharp tools are dull again. Beech is hard!


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

my new exhaust mixer is a cross between this 
Yanmar 2QM20 mixing elbow - SailboatOwners.com
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69580&d=1382657476
and this 
Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Community - Home of the Afourians - View Single Post - Where did you get 1-1/4" black iron pipe and fittings?
I will post pictures when done
cost about $20 in fittings and $25 to machine shop for turning and cutting thread on a pipe coupling


----------



## This Old Sailboat

Sitting by the fire this winter, I thought I'd try my hand at coachwhipping my tiller handle similar to the cover of Don Casey's book 100 Fast and Easy Boat Improvements, which I read and reviewed on my blog.










I had to devise a way to accommodate the taper in the handle, but it turned out great and only cost me $4.29. For the back story, instructions, and tips, see How to add coachwhipping to your tiller handle on my blog.


----------



## Skipper Jer

Very nice whipped tiller.


----------



## deniseO30

Woo.. not really low buck project but it works! It's Singer industrial 241-11 It rocks! plugged it in and this old motor starts a flywheel a spinning... the treadle controls the speed, takes a bit getting the right touch to get low speed.


----------



## Dave_E

I hope I'm not the only dummy who just lived with a boom that would waggle back and 
forth when you motor along, or sit at moorage (slip). I used to pull the main sheet in "real tight" 
and the boom vang. I've seen little wire clips that some use to clip the boom end to the backstay 
(I don't think they really work well). So I came up with this last summer while motoring to Victoria BC 
(beautifull city). Cost = practicaly nothing. Result = 100% practical.  If you don't have a doger with hand holds you can just string a line anywhere... main sheet holds it off to one side a little and the other line pulls on the boom the oposit way, resulting in a boom that has no more waggle.


----------



## Faster

Dave_E said:


> I hope I'm not the only dummy who just lived with a boom that would waggle back and
> forth when you motor along, or sit at moorage (slip). I used to pull the main sheet in "real tight"
> and the boom vang. I've seen little wire clips that some use to clip the boom end to the backstay
> (I don't think they really work well). So I came up with this last summer while motoring to Victoria BC
> (beautifull city). Cost = practicaly nothing. Result = 100% practical.  If you don't have a doger with hand holds you can just string a line anywhere... main sheet holds it off to one side a little and the other line pulls on the boom the oposit way, resulting in a boom that has no more waggle.


We often tie the boom off to one side, usually with the tail of the mainsheet, in a rolly anchorage to avoid that and the noise of that wee bit of motion..

I hope your dodger frame is skookum enough to take the loading.. I'd prefer to tie that off to a toerail or a outboard cleat...


----------



## Barquito

Denise, that sewing machine is awesome. I bet you could stitch plate steel together!


----------



## Dave_E

Faster said:


> We often tie the boom off to one side, usually with the tail of the mainsheet, in a rolly anchorage to avoid that and the noise of that wee bit of motion..
> 
> I hope your dodger frame is skookum enough to take the loading.. I'd prefer to tie that off to a toerail or a outboard cleat...


Very sturdy. At first I thought "not to this" but to get it anywhere else meant a trip hazard over the walk way or onto a wooden grab rail on the house top.


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

Dave_E said:


> Very sturdy. At first I thought "not to this" but to get it anywhere else meant a trip hazard over the walk way or onto a wooden grab rail on the house top.


I use my gybe preventer to secure the boom


----------



## TakeFive

Since our boom is low enough to hit your head on the way out the companionway, we've gotten into the habit of securing our boom to the starboard side. We have a bungee cord that pulls it toward a stanchion, and tighten up the mainsheet. The opposing forces keep it from jostling around. If there's a storm coming, we'll use clothesline instead of the bungee cord to make sure everything is tightly secured.


----------



## Faster

A few weeks back we were posting projects that were not necessarily boat-related, I showed you all the table pedestal and bench I made for our kids' condo.
I also built a dinette/banquette (that's why we had to modify the 4 legged table to a pedestal base). The move was made last week and the banquette installed. My wife sewed the cushions as well....

They have storage (under seat and behind short end seat back) much in the style of a boat's settees.

btw.. the lamp base is full of sea glass found on BC, Nova Scotia, Caribbean and Mexican beaches


----------



## Barquito

Cool. Very nautical. I want to do one of the rooms in our house to look exactly like the cabin of an old Herreshoff boat (it would need a galley and head too, b/c if I actually did this my wife would probably make me live in there!)


----------



## jongleur

I finally got through all the posts in 
this thread. Bookmarked lots of things
along the way.

Let's keep 'em coming.


----------



## deniseO30

*A the lathe turns*

Winter projects out of scrap wood! I've been wanting to try making things out of segmented rings to produce some pretty nice bowls and plates. It uses all those scraps but it IS VERY TIME CONSUMING!

7 x 11 X 11" high "flower pot"

















"sugar bowl" 6'" with lid, 









"Candy dish" 









All 3 on the end grain cutting board 









Scrap woods used, Beech (mostly), mahogany, maple, cherry, chestnut, aromatic red cedar (wild grain patterns)


----------



## SloopJonB

Denise, have you seen the stuff Dabnis does along those lines? (You'll have to check him out on SA - he got a vacation here for being a dick)

Show us your lathe too - is a bowl lathe or conventional?


----------



## Skipper Jer

Very nice Denise.


----------



## deniseO30

SloopJonB said:


> Denise, have you seen the stuff Dabnis does along those lines? (You'll have to check him out on SA - he got a vacation here for being a dick)
> 
> Show us your lathe too - is a bowl lathe or conventional?


It's a jet entry level lathe. #1236, I think they don't make it anymore. 









got me wondering about it... I bought this thing about12 years ago. Harbor fright sells the same thing with their name on it. So.. it's a JWL-1236 but a retagged offshore make like just about everything we buy. All that aside it's great for my modest turning needs.


----------



## Group9

Those are some nice looking projects, everybody. Certainly giving me some ideas. 

Moderators, please don't ever let this thread die.


----------



## mljohnson1

Reaching the end of this thread may cause depression.


----------



## Faster

mljohnson1 said:


> Reaching the end of this thread may cause depression.


I'm sure there's a pill for that!


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

Faster said:


> I'm sure there's a pill for that!


just need to keep posting new projects, we all have them


----------



## jongleur

If you go back to the beginning, you'll see
posts that you've forgotten and ideas that
you weren't ready to use but now you are.
Great pastime.


----------



## Barquito

> I'm sure there's a pill for that!


And I'm sure someone here could figure out how to make that pill out of scrap lumber, for less than $100.


----------



## SHNOOL

Speaker mounts...


----------



## SHNOOL

Arm rest:
Just slapped together a 2x3 and a 1x4... I had some cherry walnut stain laying around, and some polyurethane... Cost = $0 (used parts I already had kicking around). 3 inch drywall screws into the bulkhead, and I counter sunk the screws. I like will use my coring tool to create some plugs for the 1x4. It's just pine, but it protects the front of the stereo.

Varnish









Completed


----------



## sailor1924

I made fins for the cabin heater from aluminum flashing, $ 15.


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

sailor1924 said:


> I made fins for the cabin heater from aluminum flashing, $ 15.


nice does it help?


----------



## sailor1924

In combination with the fan you can see in the photo it adds about 10 degrees or more to the ambient temperature. The temp at the stovetop is 170F degrees and at the deck ring its 90F. I didn't have a temperature probe before I installed the fins so I don't have an accurate comparison. From the pain of near contact, the stove pipe was far hotter then 90F before the fins were in place.


----------



## Barquito

That's cool... cheap, more efficient, and won't burn your boat up.


----------



## Capt Len

My wood stove's chimney was dangerous hot so I enclosed it in an outer pipe. Open at the top (deck head) and a cute bit of sheet metal behind the stove brought the other end to the bilge where the computer fan sucked the hot into the head. Even without the fan the natural circulation was much improved


----------



## Tomas Kruska

Is $30 still a low buck project? If so, I've just added this multifunction display Runleader RL-HM028 (hour meter, tachometer, voltmeter) onto our new outboard motor. So now I know, what is the RPM and runtime hours. No drilling was required!



















more info on my blog.


----------



## the_abuse

Im gonna pick one of those up thanks for showing


----------



## Barquito

I'd be interested to see how it does. I imagine electronics on an outboard live a rough life (sun, water, vibration...).


----------



## the_abuse

@$20 who cares


----------



## Barquito

> @$20 who cares


Very true. And that is what a lot of non-low-buck guys and gals fail to grasp.


----------



## SloopJonB

The ones who fail to grasp that are cheap, not low-buck. 

There's a big difference.


----------



## the_abuse

I gotta got low buck project to post soon composite bulkheads for well under $100


----------



## i_amcdn

*Motor Lift Bracket re-inforcement*

My problem:
Old motor lift bracket with Honda 8 HP 4 stroke. Creaks and groans; loudly when motoring through significant waves.
Bracket was held on by 4 bolts that went through a 3/4 wooden plate on the outside and then 1/4" of solid fiber glass. There were only small washers on the inside. I am sure the fiberglass stern was flexing.
Access to interior nuts holding the bracket bolts was only through side lazerrette. You can stick your arm in and feel for the nuts blindly or stick your head in and look at the nuts but you could not do both.

Solution:
There is a little well just behind the tiller. I cut a hole in this to install an access portal. The cutter I used was basically a drill based compass. It did an OK job initially but then got bogged down after 1/3 of the way through. I then drilled 107 holes around the circle that the cutter had scribed and eventually made it through.

That hole gives me easy access to install the new washers and nuts.

I had an old marine grade wooden step that I had replaced with a wider step in year 1 of owning the boat. I epoxied this onto the inside stern and braced it in place for a week. I used this step as a new backer for the SIX bolts that I now have securing the mount.

I have a much better feeling about hanging the Honda on the bracket this yar.

Cost: 
$10 for the access plate and stainless screws to hold it in place.
$5 for new bolts/ nuts
6-10 Expoxy: $0. finished the left overs
Step: re-purposed
Butyle Tape: had on hand...I am down to my last foot of my first 2 rolls from Maine...must order new stock just to have it.
Circle cutter: borrowed (would never buy one)


----------



## i_amcdn

And the outside view of the stern


----------



## deniseO30

Painted my polyethylene Ice box with paint for plastic. wiped it down with acetone first. seems ok so far! 
before;








After;









Less then $10!


----------



## TakeFive

I really hope your paint sticks. It's really hard to get anything to adhere to polyethylene. Add the temperature cycling, and it will be even more challenging. But maybe that will be the next guy's problem.


----------



## deniseO30

supposed to.. will see. it's way better then it was in looks


----------



## mitiempo

deniseO30 said:


> Painted my polyethylene Ice box with paint for plastic. wiped it down with acetone first. seems ok so far!
> before;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Less then $10!


But is it foodsafe? Any off gassing can taint food.


----------



## deniseO30

I don't really care since all food is usually packaged or zip locked. Shusss dont tell!


----------



## Barquito

This is from TDQ from another thread:

100 Ah rechargable 12 volt drill.



> TopTip for working on the boat off the grid. Take one of these old drills with a dead pack. Anything from 9.6v to 14.4v. Discard battery and add some cable and croc clips to allow you to run it direct off the house bank. No waits for recharging now.


----------



## Capt Len

Best cable for the drill rewire is heavy speaker wire .Flexible and big current carry. Take the handle apart and solder to internal battery connections.Built a 17 ft'r on the beach in Thailand with my old Makita .9.8 v Still have a couple if any body wants to go this route.


----------



## Delezynski

Barquito said:


> This is from TDQ from another thread:
> 
> 100 Ah rechargable 12 volt drill.


A short video of how I did the conversion. 





Been working GREAT!

Note; You can turn off the 3D for standard viewing.

Greg


----------



## CharlzO

Aside from the scrubbing that I need to do to clean up the cockpit.. my new "tiller". Post hole digger handle, for about $10 at Lowes. Cut it to length, shaved the end just slightly with a dremel, and drilled two new holes. Drilled out the tiller bolt holes to accept a new 3/8" stainless bolt (temporary one in the picture, I have to pick up the correct length tonight). So, call it $5 bucks worth of a bolt, washers, nylon washers, and lock nut. And then a few bucks for a coat of varnish that will go on either Saturday or Sunday likely. 

So it fixes the issue of not having a tiller (was old, very brittle, and was snapped off during the haulout last winter. Was expected), as well as tightened up that tiller connection on the hinge to take all the play out of the tiller handle. Should be a lot easier to control now. So... maybe 20 bucks worth total?


----------



## asdf38

I've got a lot of Milwaukee M12 tools and I toyed with the idea of hacking up one battery and adding a lighter plug extension cable. Then I'd be able to run multiple tools.

Though the modern lithium tools have chips in the tool and battery which might not take kindly to this scenario. Using older tools means that's not a problem.


----------



## MedSailor

I had a friend run his 12V tools off wires and alligator clips with good results. He built a wooden battery dummy out of wood and attached contacts to it. 

Of course the 12V low amp cigarette lighter inverters are cheap and plentiful now and they could be used to run corded tools off the 12V house supply.

MedSailor


----------



## Brent Swain

Bikes for boaters are cheap unless you want a folding one. Then they get expensive. I find a folding bike far easier to get ashore in a dinghy, without getting it wet in salt water.
A young bike mechanic recently told me of a simple way to convert a regular bike into a folding bike. Just saw it in half, then use welded on pipe couplers to reconnect the two halves. Galvanized couplings will probably last the life of the bike, but stainless ones are common in scrapyards around here. Half inch or 3/4 inch ones should be about right. If they are both the same size , you can make up a wrench to connect them.You can put gear shift levers under the seat ,so they will come cleanly in two halves. Two separate halves are much easier to put in a dingy than one folded bike. I found having a front brake only is all I ever needed. I was worried about cartwheeling, but that was no problem.


----------



## Brent Swain

MedSailor said:


> I had a friend run his 12V tools off wires and alligator clips with good results. He built a wooden battery dummy out of wood and attached contacts to it.
> 
> Of course the 12V low amp cigarette lighter inverters are cheap and plentiful now and they could be used to run corded tools off the 12V house supply.
> 
> MedSailor


I find my 12 volt drill, run off the main battery, to be one of the handiest tools aboard.


----------



## Minnesail

Brent Swain said:


> I found having a front brake only is all I ever needed. I was worried about cartwheeling, but that was no problem.


My winter bike only has a front brake. It's the only brake you need, it gives you the most stopping power and cartwheeling just isn't likely.

I like the idea of a pull-apart bike. Do that to a fixed gear and you wouldn't even have to worry about the shift levers. Cool.


----------



## jongleur

Can you post a picture of the pipe
coupler you had in mind?


----------



## Barquito

> Originally Posted by Brent Swain
> I found having a front brake only is all I ever needed. I was worried about cartwheeling, but that was no problem.


After having raced bikes for a couple decades, I can say that rear brakes come in handy. However, most casual riders will not know how to feather brakes to take advantage of having a rear brake.


----------



## PaulinVictoria

Or one could just learn to ride a unicycle


----------



## Barquito

> Or one could just learn to ride a unicycle


That is actually not such a bad idea. The name of my boat is 'Cirque'. That is circus in french. I would just need to get three balls to juggle, and a red nose.


----------



## Faster

Barquito said:


> That is actually not such a bad idea. The name of my boat is 'Cirque'. That is circus in french. I would just need to get three balls to juggle, and a red nose.


... et voila!... a way to earn cruising cash!


----------



## pdqaltair

I dislike folding bikes. They ride like, well, folding bikes. Practically any road bike is better. Get one at a thrift store, if you like, and who cares if it is stolen. Guests can bring their own bikes. I have to rinse them ocationally and oil then frequently, but that is MUCH less work than storing folding bikes.

I got this rack at the thrift store for $5 and made a couple of rail hooks from heavy marine ply. Drops right over the stern rail, no fuss, nothing to fold.


----------



## Brent Swain

Apologies for the typo. What I was referring to was a pipe union, not a coupler. Pipe unions don't have to be rotated to connect


----------



## Brent Swain

pdqaltair said:


> I dislike folding bikes. They ride like, well, folding bikes. Practically any road bike is better. Get one at a thrift store, if you like, and who cares if it is stolen. Guests can bring their own bikes. I have to rinse them ocationally and oil then frequently, but that is MUCH less work than storing folding bikes.
> 
> I got this rack at the thrift store for $5 and made a couple of rail hooks from heavy marine ply. Drops right over the stern rail, no fuss, nothing to fold.


Any road bike held by pipe unions rides identical to any non foldable road bike.

Yes, keep your gear cheap and unusable to a thief looking for drug money. Works with dinghies too.


----------



## Faster

Brent Swain said:


> Apologies for the typo. What I was referring to was a pipe union, not a coupler. Pipe unions don't have to be rotated to connect


----------



## Capt Len

Good bikes are available at the Nanaimo recycle for $20 .Some need air in tires but little else. Assume it's the same all over. Spending the big bucks and rusting it out does'nt make a lot of sense


----------



## miatapaul

pdqaltair said:


> I dislike folding bikes. They ride like, well, folding bikes. Practically any road bike is better. Get one at a thrift store, if you like, and who cares if it is stolen. Guests can bring their own bikes. I have to rinse them ocationally and oil then frequently, but that is MUCH less work than storing folding bikes.
> 
> I got this rack at the thrift store for $5 and made a couple of rail hooks from heavy marine ply. Drops right over the stern rail, no fuss, nothing to fold.


I have that very same bike rack. I can tell you that 20 + years ago that was way more than $5! Works quite well on the car.


----------



## pdqaltair

miatapaul said:


> I have that very same bike rack. I can tell you that 20 + years ago that was way more than $5! Works quite well on the car.


Rhode Gear. Yup, I have another for the car. I bought my first rack 40 years ago. Since then, I seem to just stumble over them, like boat hooks and fenders.

I was given a folding bike for Christmas once, and I very politely asked them to return it, as I would not use it. I thought about the weight, about maneuvering it through the cabin, about unfolding it, and decided that the bike rack was way simpler. A single rope ties them on, and I can have them in the dingy (the tires are just a few inches above the dingy--I just slide it over) or on the dock (a child can roll them off the the side) before you could get to the locker where the folder is stored. More to the point, my back didn't like all the lifting. This is easier.


----------



## Mr. Bubs

Brent Swain said:


> Apologies for the typo. What I was referring to was a pipe union, not a coupler. Pipe unions don't have to be rotated to connect


A pipe union is ghetto, why not do it the correct way? There exists a product for that purpose, an S & S coupling.


----------



## ggray

Brent Swain said:


> Just saw it in half, then use welded on pipe couplers to reconnect the two halves.


That's a great idea.
You could probably make a good deal on an older lightweight bike to save some pounds.


----------



## SloopJonB

*S & S coupling.*

A curiously apropos name for a bit of gear for use on a sailboat.


----------



## MedSailor

Mr. Bubs said:


> A pipe union is ghetto, why not do it the correct way? There exists a product for that purpose, an S & S coupling.


Looks nice, but their price list shows it listed at $620/pair, so it's not very "low buck." Brent's pipe coupler looks like it would work pretty well!

MedSailor


----------



## Brent Swain

pdqaltair said:


> Rhode Gear. Yup, I have another for the car. I bought my first rack 40 years ago. Since then, I seem to just stumble over them, like boat hooks and fenders.
> 
> I was given a folding bike for Christmas once, and I very politely asked them to return it, as I would not use it. I thought about the weight, about maneuvering it through the cabin, about unfolding it, and decided that the bike rack was way simpler. A single rope ties them on, and I can have them in the dingy (the tires are just a few inches above the dingy--I just slide it over) or on the dock (a child can roll them off the the side) before you could get to the locker where the folder is stored. More to the point, my back didn't like all the lifting. This is easier.


In BC, my bike stays on deck, but deep sea it would quickly corrode to nothing there ,so I put it folded in the forepeak, which I don't use at sea.


----------



## smackdaddy

Here's a low-buck effort. We needed a screen for our companion-way...










And here it is (the boys helped me make it)...










I ordered some No-See-Um netting which I'll use to replace this bigger screen as we get closer to FLA. But this will do for now. Next up is the same thing for the deck hatches.

Just a few bucks.


----------



## Delezynski

smackdaddy said:


> SNIP.....
> 
> I ordered some No-See-Um netting which I'll use to replace this bigger screen as we get closer to FLA.


Cruising the west coast of Fla now. Ya NEED that screen!!!!!!!!!
Jill has been eaten alive!!!

See our recent Youtube uploads for some info on her efforts trying to make a natural repellent.

Greg


----------



## SloopJonB

Best repellant I've ever found is Citronella - candles or oil in lamps.


----------



## MedSailor

Best repellent I've ever found is to hang out with someone that the mozzies like to eat!


----------



## aeventyr60

MedSailor said:


> Best repellent I've ever found is to hang out with someone that the mozzies like to eat!


That's my gal, mozzies just love her to death...she say's it cuz I'm a hairy beast of a farang:laugher


----------



## Delezynski

SloopJonB said:


> Best repellant I've ever found is Citronella - candles or oil in lamps.


As of last month, on the east side of Tampa bay, Citronella did NOTHING!!!! 

It just made them mad and they bit more and more. I had it so strong it was hard to breath.

Greg


----------



## SloopJonB

Maybe they're immune there due to all the orange groves. 

It sure works here - almost as good as bats.


----------



## travlin-easy

The only thing I found that worked well was Avon Skin So Soft. I even wiped it on the screens and they never got more than a few inches from it before turning away.

Gary


----------



## Capt Len

Any one building a wood stove is welcome to this door.'the hardest part to fabricate. Black cast iron 19" x 12" I used the glass so you're on your own there . Standard size and available $$ Heavy, so local would be good. I usually find gold-plate /glass in scrap but this was too good to leave and I needed the glass anyway.


----------



## Brent Swain

Fie proof glass, altho expensive at $65 a sq ft ,is cheap in the size normally used in a door.


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

my new hull brush
$15 misc 1.5" abs pipe fittings and pipe








$6 3 4ft fiberglass poles $2 ea. at surplus store








$1.99 1 pool noodle float
$1 scrap of olefin berber carpet 2' x 1'
can now scrub the hull all the way to the keel


----------



## asdf38

My front portlights were in desperate need of replacement and this year I finally made them a priority by removing them in the fall (not hard, they fell apart in peices).

Prepared to spend $150-$300 each I set out to find new ones. Unfortunately none of the sizes quite lined up, and if they did, there was something else I didn't like. Going up in size was pretty much impossible given the constraints and going down in size meant time consuming fiberglass work.

On a whim I googled online machine shop and came across eMachineShop.com. They give out a free 3D CAD program which is tied right into their process. You get a quote instantly. Within less than an hour I had a draft design that quoted at $160 total for two new portlights in 6061 (4 oval frames). I wanted countersunk holes (~$40) and rounded edges (~$200 extra) and would have loved stainless ($400+) but skipped those to keep the cost down.

From eMachineShop's software:









The raw part about to get countersunk









I used a regular wood router table and a 1/8" round-over on the outside edges. It wasn't smooth but it worked. I skipped the inside edges (my ryobi bit was pretty much dead) but hit the whole thing with a wire wheel and sandpaper.









After Rustoleum pro aluminum primer, 3 coats of paint and the install. It turns out that all those holes that were easy to add in the software turn into screws that need to be installed one-by-one in real life. Damn why did I put so many.









I also removed, painted and rebedded the rear portlights. Though they didn't need replacement.









All in all it cost about $100 for each portlight including the acrylic (which was inexpensive on McMaster and easy to machine/copy with the bandsaw and router table).

I flip-flopped on the bedding and switched from Dow 795 on the first one to butyl tape for the remaining 3 after I reminded myself how much I hate silicon and caulking in general (it sticks to everything and doesn't wipe off). Butyl isn't always a picnic but at least you're not under a time constraint working with it and it can be cleaned up.

After 8 trips to west marine for hardware (took a few tries to settle on the proper hardware and length. But kudos for WM for having a fantastic and reasonably priced hardware selection) it's done and looks decent.


----------



## jongleur

Nice!


----------



## socal c25

Asdf38: how about an interior pic


----------



## asdf38

I didn't snap any. The inside frames are identical to the outside except with acorn cap nuts.


----------



## therapy23

Delezynski said:


> As of last month, on the east side of Tampa bay, Citronella did NOTHING!!!!
> 
> It just made them mad and they bit more and more. I had it so strong it was hard to breath.
> 
> Greg


Go to WalMart and buy some liquid body soap labeled with "shea butter". We usually get the WalMart brand "Equate". Have her shower with this and let me know how it is.

Though nothing is 100% this was amazing to us. I have a story but will wait to hear yours.

Sorry for the thread drift.


----------



## redfishnc

Here is my Garmin mounted to the Edson pedestal. I already had the box holding all the instruments except the GPS and we were trying to decide how to mount. My buddy was holding it in place when I realized it was almost a perfect fit between the bars. 2 ss screws and a couple of rubber washers I found in the garage and I now have it mounted in a perfect location for no one to grab. Now if only I was smart enough to add a picture.... Im getting closer, 

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/members/redfishnc-albums-sea-witch-picture945-garmin740r1.jpg


----------



## Faster

redfishnc said:


> ...... Now if only I was smart enough to add a picture....


Go to Photobucket.com, create an account. (free and spam free) Upload your image to the site, then click on it and choose the IMG link code for sharing. copy and paste that code into your post et voila!!
C'est magnifique!!


----------



## Faster

Photobucket's IMG code paste looks like this:



Also... just trying the new 'drag and drop' feature under the 'quick reply' box...

Kinda works but you only get a thumbnail..


----------



## dbruce85

I wanted to mount the Autopilot control on the coaming but did not want it sticking out so no one could sit there. I found some "Marine recess boxes in the $100.00 range, then I found this one for $10.50 Recessed Multiple Gang TV Box for Power and Low Voltage 
I put a piece of 3/4 starboard in the bottom to hold the control ( a thinner piece would have worked but 3/4 is what I had).


----------



## therapy23

Hopefully UV won't be a problem.....


----------



## dbruce85

It sits under a Bimini so it gets very direct sun, if it goes in four or five years another one is not too expensive


----------



## mbianka

What to do with an old cutting board and some scrap wood? I made a portable work table that is already coming in very useful on board:
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: USEFUL THINGS ON BOARD: PORTABLE WORK TABLE


----------



## dbruce85

Sorry I meant it gets indirect sun. Also the white was not quite white enough to get a close match so I had sprayed the outside of the box with Krylon plastic paint. so UV should not be a problem


----------



## mbianka

A couple of years ago to make the removal and re-bedding of my boats handrails easier. I enlarged the area under the cabin top to gain access to the mounting screws. This left some unsightly rectangular openings in the liner. This spring I finally got around to cover those spots up using some molding from the Home Depot:
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: FIXING A HOLE: HEADLINERS AND HANDRAILS


----------



## CharlzO

mbianka said:


> A couple of years ago to make the removal and re-bedding of my boats handrails easier. I enlarged the area under the cabin top to gain access to the mounting screws. This left some unsightly rectangular openings in the liner. This spring I finally got around to cover those spots up using some molding from the Home Depot:
> THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: FIXING A HOLE: HEADLINERS AND HANDRAILS


That looks great, and definitely a creative solution that allows for future access.


----------



## Bene505

Can you share more about this project?

Regards,
Brad



SHNOOL said:


> Speaker mounts...


----------



## SHNOOL

Sure what do you wanna know?








drawing internally








and


----------



## mbianka

CharlzO said:


> That looks great, and definitely a creative solution that allows for future access.


Thanks. I was also thinking the wood strip would also make a good attachment place to mount a fan by the galley. But, that's another project. :laugh


----------



## Tubesteak

Got rid of the useless hideous looking icebox in my Mirage. All wood was scrap and hardware cost around 10$. Was planning on building a custom cooler attached to it but I like the easy access to the bilge. Interior ledge in door is keeping wiring off the bottom too.


----------



## utchuckd

mbianka said:


> A couple of years ago to make the removal and re-bedding of my boats handrails easier. I enlarged the area under the cabin top to gain access to the mounting screws. This left some unsightly rectangular openings in the liner. This spring I finally got around to cover those spots up using some molding from the Home Depot:
> THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: FIXING A HOLE: HEADLINERS AND HANDRAILS


Is the molding just screwed into the cabin top?


----------



## mbianka

utchuckd said:


> Is the molding just screwed into the cabin top?


 Actually it is just screwed into the liner. There is a little space between the liner and the actual cabin top. If my boat did not have this liner I would have had easier access to the screws holding the handrails.


----------



## TakeFive

This low-bucks project is not complete yet, but I thought I'd share it with you to get your comments before I finish.

Since I have started anchoring a little more frequently, and am aways dealing with heavily caked-on mud even on a small lunch hook, I would like a washdown system. However, I always try to keep things simple and portable on my little 25 foot boat, and I really don't want to create another through-hull penetration. So I decided to make a portable wash-down system.

I found this portable submersible pump on Amazon:
Amazon.com: Docooler 12V Water Oil Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Submersible On/Off Switch Car Van Stainless Steel: Home [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@41PGoc2vrkL

It is designed to be lowered through the bunghole of a drum and run from a wired remote switch while hanging freely. It pumps non-flammable solvents (diesel, etc.), but also water. The specs indicate that it should have enough head to drive a spray nozzle, and my freeboard is about the height of a typical drum. So I think this has a chance of being a nice little portable washdown system once fitted with a hose and nozzle. For $20 I decided it was worth a try, so I bought one.

Out-of-the box, it comes with battery clips to attach to the lead posts on a battery. My initial dry test indicates that it draws only 1 amp, though I expect that amperage may increase under the load of pumping water (will test as soon as I can). But I think that it is low enough current that I will be able to cut off the clips and attach a 12v plug. I have 12v sockets at various locations on my boat, so I should be able to easily plug it in when I want to use it.

I want to cut off a relatively short (~8') length of garden hose. The hose barb is 3/4", but most of my hoses are 5/8" ID, so I need to figure that out.

Of course, this system could also be a backup bilge pump in case of emergency. I'm debating whether to cut the hose long enough to go all the way out the companionway hatch and over the gunwale, or whether I just figure a way to attach the hose to drain into the galley sink if it was pressed into use as an emergency bilge pump.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Bill-Rangatira

used track lights $25 for 6
came with new halogen bulbs which are $20 for 6
bases for surface mounting $5
new 12v sockets $5 ea.
12v led spot bulbs with mr16 ends $7 ea.
cost per light was $21 or less if you count the free light they came with


----------



## TakeFive

TakeFive said:


> ...Since I have started anchoring a little more frequently, and am aways dealing with heavily caked-on mud even on a small lunch hook, I would like a washdown system. However, I always try to keep things simple and portable on my little 25 foot boat, and I really don't want to create another through-hull penetration. So I decided to make a portable wash-down system.
> 
> I found this portable submersible pump on Amazon:
> Amazon.com: Docooler 12V Water Oil Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Submersible On/Off Switch Car Van Stainless Steel: Home Improvement
> 
> It is designed to be lowered through the bunghole of a drum and run from a wired remote switch while hanging freely. It pumps non-flammable solvents (diesel, etc.), but also water. The specs indicate that it should have enough head to drive a spray nozzle, and my freeboard is about the height of a typical drum. So I think this has a chance of being a nice little portable washdown system once fitted with a hose and nozzle. For $20 I decided it was worth a try, so I bought one.
> 
> Out-of-the box, it comes with battery clips to attach to the lead posts on a battery. My initial dry test indicates that it draws only 1 amp, though I expect that amperage may increase under the load of pumping water (will test as soon as I can). But I think that it is low enough current that I will be able to cut off the clips and attach a 12v plug. I have 12v sockets at various locations on my boat, so I should be able to easily plug it in when I want to use it.
> 
> I want to cut off a relatively short (~8') length of garden hose. The hose barb is 3/4", but most of my hoses are 5/8" ID, so I need to figure that out.
> 
> Of course, this system could also be a backup bilge pump in case of emergency...


Project complete. Total cost about $43:


----------



## therapy23

Cool.

What sort of stream do you get from it?


----------



## TakeFive

therapy23 said:


> Cool.
> 
> What sort of stream do you get from it?


I am not sure I have the words to answer that. My video may be the best answer you can get to that question.


----------



## therapy23

TakeFive said:


> I am not sure I have the words to answer that. My video may be the best answer you can get to that question.


I did not notice the pic as a video.

Thanks.


----------



## i_amcdn

Outboard fresh water rinse.

I found this idea for a simple, portable fresh water rinse device. Re-purposed fender.

https://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Outboardflush.aspx


----------



## jongleur

I like my gloves handy. At home I screwed
a box to the garage wall. Here I taped a box
to the inside of a locker. Also put up a baggie
box.


----------



## lans0012

It's been raining and storming for the last couple weeks so I've had plenty of time to do a quick project I'd been thinking about. I have some experienced sailors on the boat a lot and also frequently have beginners. Every boat is laid out a little different and I think it is easier to tell people which lever to open or close than to describe the color of the line. I just installed a double Gaurhauer on the starboard side that has black and blue levers, and have a triple Gaurhauer on the port side with grey levers. I bought some spray paint from the local Do it Best Hardware at 6.50 a can and color coded the levers. I'll report back to let you know how they're holding up in a few months. 

I just sanded with 100 grit and sprayed on some enamel outdoor furniture type paint.


----------



## heinzir

Looks good, also a lot cheaper than replacing your running rigging with color coded lines!


----------



## asdf38

This actually cost me nothing because it only used things I already had. But it came as a result of the fact that I had been eying a $45 attachment point for the end of the tiller extension.

It turns out that a bungee sail tie (which I like a lot btw) can hold the tiller extension handle against the stern rail perfectly well.

The extension is adjustable and seems pretty easy to either yank out or to re-adjust. In that position it can move the tiller across the useful sailing range of the tiller.

Currently, I have a line with two adjustable slip knots (adjustable grip hitch) on either end and a butterfly loop in the middle to go around the tiller handle. This is my tiller tie off line and tiller lock underway. It's worked fine but the tiller extension is another option that may prove easier to adjust.

Going upwind, tying off the tiller is my primary strategy and I can usually get the boat totally locked in and self-steering with the tiller tied (so long as the wind speed doesn't shift too much).


----------



## SloopJonB

Other than free stuff, this is my lowest buck project ever - one buck.

I got the solid brass pulls for $0.25 each - $1 total and had the mirrored plexi left over from a skylight job on my house.

The first shot shows the scruffy 31 Y.O. plexi sliders with rusting chromed pulls as they were and the second shows my $1 investment.


----------



## Capt Len

For any near locals, I'm cleaning out the basement and have found some teak .full 1" x4' and 1"x2 both 8'. Many shorter lengths of 3x4 teak ,some oak and jarra,yew . gum. Priced right.


----------



## SloopJonB

More near free locker sliding doors. This time I used some scraps of teak ply, more of those $0.25 solid brass pulls ($1.50 worth ) and a couple of bucks worth of wipe on poly.

Total cost? About $5

First pic is the old plexi sliders with corroded chrome pulls, second pic is the new sliders.


----------



## Matt

My gooseneck broke. $750 but I had already blown my budget on electrical upgrades. Could get a shop to make a new fitting for $250 by the end of boating season. None of these options appealed to me so I decided to rig it for the season and it cost me about $50. The repair is holding up so well I think I'll leave it permanently.

Starboard for in between the ss washers
2 ss plate washers machined to exact size.
2 small bolts any locking bolts.
1 ss ubolt
Epoxy so the u bolt won't ever rattle


----------



## 59paul

Regarding Hull Wax - recently put Treewax on our 46', 15yr old, white gel coat hull after compounding. Had better results in past with 3M Performance Paste wax. Does anyone know if there is an issue if we apply a couple coats of 3m Performance Paste wax over the Tree wax?


----------



## kgs113

My lazarette organizers. Some scrap Sapele with some slots routed to fit some Velcro one wrap through.


----------



## kgs113

And my "autopilot"


----------



## jongleur

kgs: What are the things in your cockpit drains?


----------



## miatapaul

59paul said:


> Regarding Hull Wax - recently put Treewax on our 46', 15yr old, white gel coat hull after compounding. Had better results in past with 3M Performance Paste wax. Does anyone know if there is an issue if we apply a couple coats of 3m Performance Paste wax over the Tree wax?


Well normally you can put carnauba wax wax over synthetic, but not the other way around. I am not familiar with 3M Performance but it likely has cleaners that will remove the carnauba anyway. For Trewax to work it needs a very very clean and buffed surface as I don't think it has much in the way of cleaning agents. I am partial to Connolite Fleet wax/metal wax or Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax. Both will need a clean buffed finish as they don't contain polishes, though I think the metal wax does.


----------



## kgs113

jongleur said:


> kgs: What are the things in your cockpit drains?


Those are expanded aluminium mesh screens for gutters. There are trees near my boat the the screens keep debris from plugging my cockpit drains and causing a flood. I can get better pictures next time I'm at the boat. They are low budget for sure!


----------



## This Old Sailboat

I haven't posted projects here for a while but thought you guys might like this one.

A new sail is definitely not low buck. But what if you could improve the shape of your existing sails for just the cost of a little whipping twine and your time?

Raising the shrunken bolt rope luff of your sails is inexpensive and can make a big improvement.

BEFORE


AFTER


Read how to do it in today's post on my blog, How to flatten the luff of that baggy old sail.


----------



## mikel1

Wow . . . . Impressive change . . Thank you for that . . .


----------



## Delezynski

NICE TOS!
Thanks.

Greg


----------



## CharlzO

That is an incredible difference, and I am definitely going to look into doing the same!


----------



## svsolaris

Hi,

I have a quick one that isn't perfectly finished yet. The head on my boat is at the end of the bed. Too close for comfort! So I made a simple box to cover it that also doubles as a bed extension. It works really well. I just need to have a proper pillow made for it. It cost as much as 1 piece of 48x48 ply wood does at Home Depot. Now that it worked so well I might redo it next summer with a nice piece of wood.

Jay


----------



## fryewe

svsolaris said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have a quick one that isn't perfectly finished yet. The head on my boat is at the end of the bed. Too close for comfort! So I made a simple box to cover it that also doubles as a bed extension. It works really well. I just need to have a proper pillow made for it. It cost as much as 1 piece of 48x48 ply wood does at Home Depot. Now that it worked so well I might redo it next summer with a nice piece of wood.
> 
> Jay


Nice, Jay.

You could get rid of the drop board channels and the hassle of dealing with the drop board after you pull it out by putting a piano hinge on the front of the cover and attaching the drop board to the other side of the hinge. Then the front and top would fold up and back as one piece. A barrel bolt could fix the assembly in position when either raised and lowered.


----------



## SVGimmeShelter

johnshasteen said:


> Cheap storage for those small propane bottles that you don't know how to store. I went to Home Depot and bought a three-foot piece of #10 PVC pipe the right diameter to hold the bottles, a glue on (I know it's called weld) bottom cap and an adapter and screw on top. Put it all together, drilled several holes in the bottom and attached the rig to one of the slanted legs of the stern pulpit with a couple of hose clamps. It's lasted for about 10-years now and shows no sign of wear.


Oh my gosh, this is genius. Guess my husband has a project for the weekend.


----------



## svsolaris

That's an interesting idea! That would look really sharp.

Thanks!


----------



## SVGimmeShelter

piav said:


> I'm going all LED inside...would love to hear how you make your own lights!


Running the risk of looking like I'm plugging my blog, but this does actually provide a good explanation, and with pictures.

Repairing a cabin dome light with LEDs | svgimmeshelter


----------



## Barquito

> Cheap storage for those small propane bottles that you don't know how to store. I went to Home Depot and bought a three-foot piece of #10 PVC pipe the right diameter to hold the bottles, a glue on (I know it's called weld) bottom cap and an adapter and screw on top. Put it all together, drilled several holes in the bottom and attached the rig to one of the slanted legs of the stern pulpit with a couple of hose clamps. It's lasted for about 10-years now and shows no sign of wear.


I have the same setup. Most stern pulpits are not vertical, so make sure you have holes in the bottom of the pipe that are near the edge, not in the middle.


----------



## Capt Len

SV gimme .Lubing the threads with suitable grease negates the need to find a pipe wrench while the BBQ cools. Drilling a hole in the cap for a bit of lanyard helps sometimes as PVC dosn't float too good


----------



## travlin-easy

Here's a video of my hatch doors, which were made by the boat's previous owner. He said the project took him less than a day to complete.






Gary


----------



## pdqaltair

Storm windows for Winter. Any ideas other than insulation?

For example, we swap bug screens for 1/8" polycarbonate. In may cases, it's as simple as tracing and cutting.









Some are a little harder to fit (the small Beckson hatch screens can be swapped, but it requires cleaning and swapping the gaskets).

How about external covers (other than canvas)? Keeping the UV off always helps, and covers can reduce the summer AC load.


----------



## Capt Len

A source of thin clear plastic sheet is those huymongous TVs that are thrown out at the recycle depot (projecter type) Probably acrylic but the price is right.


----------



## SloopJonB

I just completed a fairly successful experiment - sorry but no pics. The 31 Y/O Grey Enterprises ports in my '84 Hunter had degraded to being merely translucent - you couldn't make out anything but light & shadow through them. The same applied to my deck hatch lenses.

I picked up a headlight polishing kit at HF for $10 or $15 and tried it out - turned them transparent in minutes. They are still far from perfect as they have some internal crazing but you can read the fine print on other boats through them now - huge difference and a whole lot cheaper than the approx. $1K that 7 new ports would have cost.

We won't even talk about the cost of new deck hatches or even doing new lenses for them myself - $hundreds more either way.


----------



## SloopJonB

Here's my latest cheap trick. New plexi drop boards for my companionway. The before shot shows the old teak ones and yes, there was no top board so I couldn't lock up the boat.

I made the new ones from a piece of 1/2" plexi I've had in storage for about 36 years. The handle was cut from some teak scrap, also on hand, as were the hasp & lock.

$0 out of pocket now but I suppose I paid something originally. Either way, they were as close to free as makes no difference.


----------



## deniseO30

Was given a Ted William 2 stroke been sitting close to 20 years in my YC locker. took it home.. washed it down with cleaner. got some gumout and gas and oil . Let the gumout set in the carb and tank over night.. mixed gas and oil. filled it pulled the cord... sput sput...
Pulled again Running!


----------



## SloopJonB

Don't you just hate it when stuff from your youth is called "Vintage"? :wink


----------



## Delezynski

deniseO30 said:


> Was given a Ted William 2 stroke been sitting close to 20 years in my YC locker. took it home.. washed it down with cleaner. got some gumout and gas and oil . Let the gumout set in the carb and tank over night.. mixed gas and oil. filled it pulled the cord... sput sput...
> Pulled again Running!


LOVE them 2 stroke!! :laugh

Greg


----------



## Minnesail

SloopJonB said:


> Don't you just hate it when stuff from your youth is called "Vintage"? :wink


I'm not even that old (in my mind anyway) and it's happening to me. My neighborhood had a little classic car show the other day and there were a couple that didn't seem that classic to me...

"That's not a classic Mustang, that's just the Mustang people drove when I was in high school. Oh."


----------



## therapy23

deniseO30 said:


> Was given a Ted William 2 stroke been sitting close to 20 years in my YC locker. took it home.. washed it down with cleaner. got some gumout and gas and oil . Let the gumout set in the carb and tank over night.. mixed gas and oil. filled it pulled the cord... sput sput...
> Pulled again Running!


One of the prettiest turds I have seen in quite some time. Congratulations.


----------



## mbianka

While hunkered down below two weeks ago waiting for the Nor'Easter to blow its self out. I made a simple storage pouch using some cheap knock off Sunbrella fabric. It that made access to some often used aerosol sprays much easier. Beats rummaging through the tool locker to find them:
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: A QUICK STORAGE PROJECT


----------



## oldlaxer1

I put one of these motion activated lights in the head. It is battery powered but really provides simple lighting when you're stumbling around at 3 am.


----------



## mitiempo

oldlaxer1 said:


> I put one of these motion activated lights in the head. It is battery powered but really provides simple lighting when you're stumbling around at 3 am.


Just don't sit still for long as it will go out.


----------



## ggray

Not a project, but very handy, and low buck.

I saw a barrel full (actually two barrels) of those super squirters at WalMart. Like a big syringe. End of season so at 75 cents, I bought two.

They work great to suck up the last bit of water in the bilge that the pump leaves.


----------



## Delezynski

ggray said:


> Not a project, but very handy, and low buck.
> 
> I saw a barrel full (actually two barrels) of those super squirters at WalMart. Like a big syringe. End of season so at 75 cents, I bought two.
> 
> They work great to suck up the last bit of water in the bilge that the pump leaves.


Besides the fun, we also use ours to open clogged drains. 
See; 




Greg


----------



## Ritchard

ggray said:


> Not a project, but very handy, and low buck.
> 
> I saw a barrel full (actually two barrels) of those super squirters at WalMart. Like a big syringe. End of season so at 75 cents, I bought two.
> 
> They work great to suck up the last bit of water in the bilge that the pump leaves.


What a good idea. I keep dragging the shopvac down to the boat when I want to get that last 3/4 inch.


----------



## gptyk

ggray said:


> Not a project, but very handy, and low buck.
> 
> I saw a barrel full (actually two barrels) of those super squirters at WalMart. Like a big syringe. End of season so at 75 cents, I bought two.
> 
> They work great to suck up the last bit of water in the bilge that the pump leaves.


They also are the best dinghy drainer pump around. We always have one we toss into the dink.

It's nice because when I spin the motor around for reverse, the pisser goes right into the dink, so it does get wet. Coupla quick pump/squirts and it's all gone.


----------



## Rhapsody-NS27

ggray said:


> Not a project, but very handy, and low buck.
> 
> I saw a barrel full (actually two barrels) of those super squirters at WalMart. Like a big syringe. End of season so at 75 cents, I bought two.
> 
> They work great to suck up the last bit of water in the bilge that the pump leaves.


I got a couple of them earlier, like Spring time for the same reason. Use one on the boat to clean up the last of the bilge and the other at home to annoy the wife. :devil


----------



## travlin-easy

Unfortunately, my bilge is too deep for the average person to reach to the bottom (about 4-feet) otherwise this would be a great asset for me as well.

Cheers,

Gary


----------



## SloopJonB

If it's that deep it doesn't matter if you get the last little bit of water out.


----------



## Tanski

LOL people alway wonder why I have a turkey baster on board.
Current project is a new padauk tiller extension, couldn't find a universal joint I liked so I made my own out of aluminum bar stock.
First coat of varnish this morning.


----------



## Brent Swain

Plastic oar blades cut out of plastic 45 gallon drums make great oar blades, when nailed to 2x2s. Nobody is going to steal them for resale. 
Scraps cut out of old fibreglass hulls and decks, can be used to make many fibreglass projects, like ice box liners ,name plates, solid dodgers, etc, saving you the work of getting a smooth finish on them. They already come with a smooth gelcoat finish on one side. Just join them at the corners, and that is the only part you have to smooth out. Saves not only time , but money as well.


----------



## CapnBones

Delezynski said:


> Besides the fun, we also use ours to open clogged drains.
> 
> Greg


I find that filling a small water bottle back up and sticking it in the drain with a good squeeze clears them out.


----------



## freddyj

Just got done reading 146 pages in three days. Great ideas! Can't wait to utilize some of them!


----------



## Barquito

> Just got done reading 146 pages in three days. Great ideas! Can't wait to utilize some of them!


----------



## chasbound

Buying 27 foot Catalina. Started browsing this thread. Wow. You guys are a bunch of talented geniuses. Great thread!


----------



## jgragrg

I can't say exactly how much the materials were since the epoxy, fiberglass, and plywood were bought for several different projects, as was the paint, masking tape and other materials used.


----------



## SloopJonB

To what are you referring?


----------



## This Old Sailboat

I often get questions about our custom floor mats. Made them out of carpet remnants cut with a soldering iron (tip shaped like a hot knife) and held in place with carpet tape. Zero cost, they look great, are easy to clean, and feel nice on bare feet on cold mornings.

You can read more about them here.


----------



## ggray

travlineasy said:


> Unfortunately, my bilge is too deep for the average person to reach to the bottom (about 4-feet) otherwise this would be a great asset for me as well.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Gary


It might still work for you, as the squirter I got gives me at least an extra 1 1/2 foot reach.


----------



## Brent Swain

travlineasy said:


> Unfortunately, my bilge is too deep for the average person to reach to the bottom (about 4-feet) otherwise this would be a great asset for me as well.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Gary


Sounds like possible place for more tankage.


----------



## Cap-Couillon

Macgyver riding sail...

Wind picked up in Boot Key Harbor to 20-25 and the Solitaire dances on the mooring like a drunken ballerina. In a good breeze she will sail 60 degrees to either side of the eye of the wind. Hard on the ground tackle, and uncomfortable to boot. Need a riding sail. I know anchoring stern to solves the issue, but not on a mooring ball, and a riding sail is gonna cost me rum bucks even if I have it stitched up at the local canvas shop. Besides, I don't have one today and don't know how well it will really work. Hmmmm...

No chunks of Sunbrella or sail cloth just layin around so what to do. Oh lookee here, a new bath towel... 10 minutes later with small small stuff I have a (to small) riding sail. Works too. Needs to be bigger, but good proof of concept. Reduced the swing from 60 degrees each side down to less than 20. Off to the canvas maker when the rain dies down to stitch up a bigger version


----------



## albrazzi

Ritchard said:


> What a good idea. I keep dragging the shopvac down to the boat when I want to get that last 3/4 inch.


This probably qualifies, get a "bucket boss" shop vac that snaps on a 5 gallon bucket. $20 at HD and you use the bucket for anything you want when not vacuuming.


----------



## Ritchard

albrazzi said:


> This probably qualifies, get a "bucket boss" shop vac that snaps on a 5 gallon bucket. $20 at HD and you use the bucket for anything you want when not vacuuming.


I just looked it up. Interesting. I never knew such a thing existed.


----------



## albrazzi

Ritchard said:


> I just looked it up. Interesting. I never knew such a thing existed.


Best 20 bucks you will ever spend, stores easy on a small boat. If I ever get a big Boat I've already decided it will have a central Vac system


----------



## Barquito

Here is an example of the item:

Bucket Head 5-gal. Wet/Dry Vacuum-BH0100 - The Home Depot


----------



## Ritchard

I just read this thread again. All of it. Well done everybody, ingenuity, artistry and cheap-skatery.


----------



## SloopJonB

Hey! That's *thrift* to you.


----------



## XSrcing

I just bought the Bucket Head a few days ago. Trying to figure out why I have never head of it before.


----------



## bljones

Low-Buck Dinghy-optimized Outboard:










Dock Six Chronicles: The Birth of FrankenMotor


----------



## albrazzi

XSrcing said:


> I just bought the Bucket Head a few days ago. Trying to figure out why I have never head of it before.


They don't want you to know about it, nobody will buy the other ones now. Honestly its no replacement for the big shop vacs but for the wet/dry boat stuff we all do its the bomb.


----------



## stpabr

Just bought my second one in 5 years. First one seen me through the refit of my '82 Newport 28. Sold that and bought an '83 CaboRico 38. Used the BucketHead to pump out the bilge water, 2 1/2 feet down, of about 4 buckets of water. After a couple week, the bearings on the motor were shot from the H2O. Well 20 bucks went a long way and the new one will get me through this refit. May need to use a sponge filter for water pickup.


----------



## albrazzi

stpabr said:


> Just bought my second one in 5 years. First one seen me through the refit of my '82 Newport 28. Sold that and bought an '83 CaboRico 38. Used the BucketHead to pump out the bilge water, 2 1/2 feet down, of about 4 buckets of water. After a couple week, the bearings on the motor were shot from the H2O. Well 20 bucks went a long way and the new one will get me through this refit. May need to use a sponge filter for water pickup.


Even the big ones remove the filter for water. But there's a ball that floats to shut off when full. Even with that its a lot of moisture to run through any motor. I would be careful to use a GFCI outlet with any wetVac. I've never heard of anyone getting Zapped but you never know.


----------



## Siamese

My docking technique largely consists of aiming the side of my vessel at one of the fenders on my dock. As a strategy, it works pretty well, but I noticed this fall that the new striping I had done on my new-to-me 1996 Catalina 28 had gotten slightly scuffed.

And, a tiny amount of blue fender was deposited on my freshly compounded and polished topsides. :eek

*So, two minutes ago, I completed my first fender cover, using Sailrite's cover kit...$52.00 or so.* Kit's good for several covers (depending).

The material is sun and rot resistant, soft/fuzzy on one side. I ordered the navy blue.

I'm usually not a fan of "kits", as they require me to read directions and I'm ADD. However, I recently finished a mainsail cover kit from Sailrite, and the pre-marked material and excellent instructions saved me a lot of hassle.

The fender cover kit came with printed instructions, velcro, and V69 thread. There are also video instructions at their site.

In the interest of "low buck" attitude, I used my recently acquired 1964 Coronado, all metal Japanese domestic sewing machine. $43.00 with shipping from shopgoodwill.com. The beautiful mint green paint and chrome accents helped, I'm sure. That said, most of the all metal vintage domestic machines can handle this project, as you only have to sew through two layers of the material.

Level of sewing difficulty for this project is very low.

My boat will gently glide into place next season. And, no more of that squeak squeak stuff when we travel and can't cross tie.


----------



## TakeFive

Goodwill comes through for the yachties once again! lol


----------



## socal c25

Siamese said:


> My docking technique largely consists of aiming the side of my vessel at one of the fenders on my dock. As a strategy, it works pretty well, but I noticed this fall that the new striping I had done on my new-to-me 1996 Catalina 28 had gotten slightly scuffed.
> 
> And, a tiny amount of blue fender was deposited on my freshly compounded and polished topsides. :eek
> 
> *So, two minutes ago, I completed my first fender cover, using Sailrite's cover kit...$52.00 or so.* Kit's good for several covers (depending).
> 
> The material is sun and rot resistant, soft/fuzzy on one side. I ordered the navy blue.
> 
> I'm usually not a fan of "kits", as they require me to read directions and I'm ADD. However, I recently finished a mainsail cover kit from Sailrite, and the pre-marked material and excellent instructions saved me a lot of hassle.
> 
> The fender cover kit came with printed instructions, velcro, and V69 thread. There are also video instructions at their site.
> 
> In the interest of "low buck" attitude, I used my recently acquired 1964 Coronado, all metal Japanese domestic sewing machine. $43.00 with shipping from shopgoodwill.com. The beautiful mint green paint and chrome accents helped, I'm sure. That said, most of the all metal vintage domestic machines can handle this project, as you only have to sew through two layers of the material.
> 
> Level of sewing difficulty for this project is very low.
> 
> My boat will gently glide into place next season. And, no more of that squeak squeak stuff when we travel and can't cross tie.


I have a Coronado 25 and I was thinking of the mainsail kit also, was it difficult at all?


----------



## Skipper Jer

socal c25 said:


> I have a Coronado 25 and I was thinking of the mainsail kit also, was it difficult at all?


We own a Nor'sea 27. I did the main and jib kit from Sailrite using a Sailrite machine. You will need room. Difficult? Not really, I compare sewing a Sailrite kit to painting a paint-by-number oil painting. The panels are marked with hem lines and line up arrows. Panels are held together using double sided sticky tape. Instructions are detailed and the support from Sailrite is top notched.


----------



## Barquito

I made cabin cushions from video instructions from Sailrite. They turned out pretty good. Not perfect. Made fender covers out of fleece with a drawstring without any instructions that turned out great. My daughter tells everyone that I sewed sweaters for the fenders.


----------



## Tomas Kruska

Looks like many of you are making the fender covers.

I've found pretty smart idea in one of the older Practial Boat Owner magazine, where someone suggested making fender covers from leggings. You know that kind of garments that only slim girls can wear


----------



## thereefgeek

Found these for $14/each at Lowe's the other day, great for inside lockers and what not. Battery powered motion sensing LED lights made by Sylvania. Powered by 3 AAA batteries (we use the rechargeables from Costco), it has ON, OFF, 10 Second, and 60 Second delay modes. The motion sensor has a 120 degree detection beam and is extremely sensitive. The light lens also rotates back and forth to direct the beam where you want it. Best part is that they turn off automatically when you’re done inside (or stop moving for a few seconds).

They come with a removable magnet that mounts to your chosen surface with double stick tape, and they’ve also included a screw which fixes the magnet with a bit more security. The light fixture then “sticks” to the mounted magnet, but I tend to be a bit skeptical of it’s strength in rough seas. If one were inclined, one could add double stick tape between the magnet and the light fixture for a more secure mount.


----------



## albrazzi

I finally got the picture thing figured out so I will be sharing some projects. 

Most are from scraps so while not "Free" no direct cost immediately. I have so much small stock laying around from big provects what might qualify as Low Bucks for me might not truly qualify for others but here goes.

Main cabin sole refinish, mostly elbow grease. Stripper applied twice and wire brushed (fine SS or Brass) small like a big tooth brush, to remove from the grain and poly finished 6 coats looks GREAT.. Removed some rotted sections and made a grate for the affected areas. I like it because I can visually monitor the slack bilge for water constantly.


----------



## miatapaul

thereefgeek said:


> Found these for $14/each at Lowe's the other day, great for inside lockers and what not. Battery powered motion sensing LED lights made by Sylvania. Powered by 3 AAA batteries (we use the rechargeables from Costco), it has ON, OFF, 10 Second, and 60 Second delay modes. The motion sensor has a 120 degree detection beam and is extremely sensitive. The light lens also rotates back and forth to direct the beam where you want it. Best part is that they turn off automatically when you're done inside (or stop moving for a few seconds).
> 
> They come with a removable magnet that mounts to your chosen surface with double stick tape, and they've also included a screw which fixes the magnet with a bit more security. The light fixture then "sticks" to the mounted magnet, but I tend to be a bit skeptical of it's strength in rough seas. If one were inclined, one could add double stick tape between the magnet and the light fixture for a more secure mount.


I like the idea, but can you aim the sensors enough so it does not turn on every time the boat rocks and the clothes move? Of course if the door is shut I guess you would not know! And with rechargeables it really does not matter. On another topic, that is why shelves are better for clothes they don't chafe as much as they do swinging around in the hanging locker. I have an old cheap rain gear jacket that came with the boat that whole sections of the outside is rubbed off where it swung around rubbing on the jacket next to it, not sure how long it took though. But I woudl hate to try to put on my suit (I still have to work while living aboard) and find it had chafed in patches.


----------



## travlin-easy

I like the motion sensor light as a theft deterrent. Place one or two in the cockpit, and if someone enters the lights kick on, hopefully, sending the thief scurrying away. Thieves really don't like being seen.

Thanks for posting,

Gary


----------



## svsolaris

I wanted to try out a riding anchor sail. My boat swings like crazy when there's a breeze and I plan to get a mooring this year rather than slip. I found a few websites of people making riding sails out of regular hardware store tarp and then based the dimensions on the Sailrite kit. I'm a fan of trying to do things the unconventional way to see if it works. You learn a lot!

I have to thank Mom for this one though as she actually made it, I just pointed her in the right direction  Seams are doubled up with zip zag stitching and reinforced with canvas. Seems solid to me and it cost $8 CDN (which is 5.72 USD, brutal) Just need to add a few carabiners.

We'll see how it works in the spring. I think it will work, it's just how well and how long it'll hold up.


----------



## Barquito

Cool. Do I see a little negative roach on one side? That should decrease fluttering, I would think.


----------



## Adele-H

Ok, for about $5 bucks, IDK, I had this Reflectix stuff left over from a job...
I made liners last year for the ice box. We use to have a block and a bag of ice last a maximum of two days before this system, had the ice last well into 5 days last year. Also, instead of the block of ice, we freeze gallon jugs of water, when it melts, we have drinking water instead of bilge water.
I cut a piece that goes down each side and does the bottom, punched a hole where the drain hole is at the bottom of the ice box. Made two more panels for front and back. and one more that fits over the top, a little longer than required so that it can be tucked in at the back of the box.
As the food goes away, we push the top piece down so that it is on top of the food.When you open the lid of the ice box, you can reach stuf that's in the back or in the front, but it keeps the cold in..
Nice if you don't have refrigeration. 
Easy to clean, easy to store and cheap to make A roll of 24 inch Reflectix at home dump is about $25.


----------



## SloopJonB

My latest cheap trick - I found the grating, trimmed it to fit and bound it with $10 worth of brass angle.

The second pic of the duck boards is what it replaced. 

Don't know why the first pic got rotated like that.


----------



## albrazzi

Figured the pictures out lots of low buck jobs this winter. Mostly from scraps left over from other projects.


----------



## Barquito

> The second pic of the duck boards is what it replaced.


SJB - Just out of curiosity, why did you replace the original grate? Looks serviceable. Was it uncomfortable on the feet?


----------



## SloopJonB

It was solid teak and completely serviceable, just needed a decent job of varnishing.

I just think that proper gratings look infinitely better than duck boards and I had the grating on hand for no cost.


----------



## Kristtaney

Ah I recognize a CS vee berth, I am thinking of doing this to my CS33, may bring it a little further back to allow more storage. 
Nice job.


----------



## albrazzi

Kristtaney said:


> Ah I recognize a CS vee berth, I am thinking of doing this to my CS33, may bring it a little further back to allow more storage.
> Nice job.


Thanks, the 36 and the 40 have that cabinet, I think it looks good up there and I tried to balance it out and not encroach too much on the Berth. Right now your feet go up there anyway.


----------



## albrazzi

SloopJonB said:


> It was solid teak and completely serviceable, just needed a decent job of varnishing.
> 
> I just think that proper gratings look infinitely better than duck boards and I had the grating on hand for no cost.


Apparently I agree with this, my Head had a removable floor made from the same Teak and Holly ply as the floor and it was shot so I did the same thing.


----------



## SloopJonB

Yeah - gratings on a boat are the nautical equivalent of louvers and lightening holes on a car.

Just plain cool looking.


----------



## Faster

SloopJonB said:


> Yeah - gratings on a boat are the nautical equivalent of louvers and lightening holes on a car.
> 
> Just plain cool looking.


... until that Loonie falls out of your pocket


----------



## This Old Sailboat

Hi, Guys!

It's impressive how this thread has taken on a life of its own and stayed alive over the years. There are a lot of handy and creative skippers out there. It was one of the motivations for me starting The $tingy Sailor three years ago.



As a way of giving back to the DIY community, I'm hosting a DIY project contest on The $tingy Sailor through the month of March and I invite you to enter your best projects. No catch, no gimmicks, just a good, old-fashioned showdown. Complete details are available through the preceding link.

You've done some awesome work and you deserve a shot at winning one of the prizes. If you know of anybody else that you think deserves a chance, please let them know too. Yeah, it reduces your odds of winning, but let the best work win, I say!

If you have any questions or concerns, let me know in a personal message or with my Contact page.

Keep up the great work!
Ken


----------



## travlin-easy

One of the problems I encountered after installing my solar panel was charging either the house batteries (4 T-105 in series/parallel) or my start battery (12-volt deep cycle marine). Because of impedance differences, I could charge them all at the same time, therefore, I had to disconnect the house bank from the solar panel regulator and connect the wire to the start battery, which meant removing everything, including the cushion from my quarter berth, which is where all the batteries are housed.

The solution, eclectically, was simple, but I needed to simplify the method of switching from house to start and still monitor the charge rate. This was easily accomplished by purchasing a 2 gang, plastic receptacle box at Home Depot ($1.99), then installing a 20-amp DPDT toggle switch ($5.99, and a 30 amp ameter ($24). Wiring took about 10 minutes to complete and everything works like a champ - I'm a happy camper. 










Gary


----------



## Donna_F

This is almost a no buck project because I know 1) sailors have plenty of tote bags and 2) at some point will buy enough wine/liquor that the store puts it in a box with dividers when you check out. I find the box awkward to carry so I took the cardboard dividers and put them inside my sturdiest canvas tote. Each time I use it the people in line think I invented the light bulb.


----------



## miatapaul

DRFerron said:


> This is almost a no buck project because I know 1) sailors have plenty of tote bags and 2) at some point will buy enough wine/liquor that the store puts it in a box with dividers when you check out. I find the box awkward to carry so I took the cardboard dividers and put them inside my sturdiest canvas tote. Each time I use it the people in line think I invented the light bulb.


When visiting my parents I picked up some very inexpensive wine on clearance at Kroger's, They had wine totes kind of like this but with cloth dividers. I grabbed a few every time I picked some wine up, and brought them home figuring they would have some use on the boat, but have not found a use yet other than keeping wine from clanging.


----------



## Donna_F

miatapaul said:


> When visiting my parents I picked up some very inexpensive wine on clearance at Kroger's, They had wine totes kind of like this but with cloth dividers. I grabbed a few every time I picked some wine up, and brought them home figuring they would have some use on the boat, but have not found a use yet other than keeping wine from clanging.


Someone mentioned those at the wine store today but with my cardboard dividers I can remove them and use the tote as a regular tote when I'm not carrying wine.


----------



## Lazerbrains

Didn't want to pay $80 for a simple dinghy bridle. Made this one today out of webbing, stainless hardware, and a pool noodle.

Cost = under $20.


----------



## Faster

Lazerbrains said:


> Didn't want to pay $80 for a simple dinghy bridle. Made this one today out of webbing, stainless hardware, and a pool noodle.
> 
> Cost = under $20.


I'd consider changing those quick hooks.. I've seen them unlatch themselves when the dinghy surges down a wave.. The locking versions are more reliable.


----------



## SloopJonB

DRFerron said:


> Someone mentioned those at the wine store today but with my cardboard dividers I can remove them and use the tote as a regular tote when I'm not carrying wine.


That's a big plus - those booze bags are useless for anything else.


----------



## svsolaris

Another winter project almost completed. I made this cockpit table out of a free wood pallet and a $2.03 1.5x1.5 piece of wood for the frame. It's not perfect but looks pretty good if you ask me. The plan is to make the stand out of PVC pipe and flanges which I priced out to be about $15 from Home Depot. This way I'll have the table, leg and base so it all comes apart for easy storage. Need to get the tarp off the boat to measure the height so I can finish it up.


----------



## fred1diver

looks real nice


----------



## Barquito

Looks good. Does the flange base stay bolted to the cockpit floor? Just wondering what that part is going to look like. Overkill may be to use piano hinges for the table. Post some pictures when you have it in (maybe with some full beers).


----------



## svsolaris

Haha yeah I was fresh out of beers by the time I got that far! My plan is to find a solid wood base and mount the flange on it. Not fixed to the floor. Then another flange on the underside of the table which will be hidden by the frame. Hopefully I won't have too many issues with the table moving. I have a removable wood cockpit floor that I should be able to secure the base to. I'll have to see how it goes when I get that far.

I'll post the finished product with full beers and snacks when completed.


----------



## CurEuS

Took me a few days to read through this thread and I wanted to say THANK YOU to all the contributors! I'm 45 days from launch and I now have lots of inspiration for some small projects I can do to keep busy until then.


----------



## WinterRiver

The boards in the lazarette were falling apart, the plywood was disintegrating but the slats were still good wood.



The engine compartment panel had seen better days.





The door also needed some attention.





This was significantly easier than replacing the veneer, and sturdier too.

Cost: time, and the price of new (cheap exterior grade) plywood for the lazarette.


----------



## Islander123

New boat cushions are crazy money, found some old caravan cushions, got the kitchen knife out......just got to persuade the wife to cover them now!


----------



## Wes

Auto pilot, low battery drain...fully adjustable via wing nut on the underside


----------



## Wes

Modern adaptation of the old swing arm...


----------



## szigi

Here is a low buck pedestal guard + instrument pod under 100 bucks. I have a spare Raymarine Pathfinder display, so why not put it at the helm? Problem, no instrument pod and no place to put a pod. Solution: 
1 - go to an exhaust shop, get them bend a piece of 1" ss tubing for dirt cheap.
3 - get two 1" stanchion bases that will support the guard.
3 - get measurements on the pedestal, draw the drawing in CAD and have a friendly water-jet cutter shop to cut a piece of aluminium that goes between the pedestal and the compass.
4 - from some scrap plywood, create the pod.
5 - measure at least 4 times and drill only once to install the bases and cut the hole in the teak grating. Success!
6 - still to come: paint the pod and install the instrument wiring.


----------



## therapy23

7. Swing the compass (with power on and power off).

Looks fantastic.


----------



## szigi

therapy23 said:


> 7. Swing the compass (with power on and power off).
> 
> Looks fantastic.


Thanks. You are right, you have a very valid point here with the compass.


----------



## albrazzi

I'm getting some spider cracks on my lifeline stanchions there's a single bolt and small footprint where it meets the deck. The SS plate will spread the load a bit and with a similar sized backing plate stiffen the deck enough to at least keep it from getting worse. Ill try some crack sealer at the same time.
The plates I made from some scrap, roughed them out with a cut off wheel and some flap discs and scotch brite type pads for the angle grinder they polished up pretty good. I will test them with salt spray for a while before installing. So far if I get any scratches out they hold up well, the corrosion resistance is directly impacted by a good polish. 
The middle hole is the stanchion and the two others are to sandwich the backing plate on. The wood piece is a stop for the companion hatch it can slide all the way out now the old one was just gone. The screws are there just no stop.


----------



## SloopJonB

Pick up a small bench buffer at HF for $40 along with a stick of green compound. Wet sand the plates through the grits up to about 1000 grit or thereabouts then polish them with the green stick and the buffer - they'll look like chrome.

Then you have the buffer to keep your metal bits looking good for years to come.

Some samples before & after.


----------



## albrazzi

SloopJonB said:


> Pick up a small bench buffer at HF for $40 along with a stick of green compound. Wet sand the plates through the grits up to about 1000 grit or thereabouts then polish them with the green stick and the buffer - they'll look like chrome.
> 
> Then you have the buffer to keep your metal bits looking good for years to come.
> 
> Some samples before & after.


Thanks Jon, I was looking for the next step in polish and I think Ill go shopping. There's a HF right around the corner.


----------



## albrazzi

Jon, I got some supplies and haven't used them yet, I got the green and there are 5 colors and no information available from the store or online do you know what the colors are, polishing levels I assume but what's the key.


----------



## SloopJonB

They are for different metals as well as different levels of polishing - quick course in the tech standards;

Ferrous metal - Grey - coarse, Green - polish, White - ultra fine or "colouring"

Non- Ferrous - Brown - coarse, White - polish, Red - ultra fine or "colouring"

In practice I have found on stainless and aluminium that Brown (Tripoli) followed by Green is the fastest and easiest. The White doesn't work as well for me as the Green on S/S. Over time I have used twice as many sticks of Green as the others. I only use spiral sewn buffs for S/S

I have tried using Red (rouge) to bring up maximum lustre but find in practice it doesn't really do much on S/S.

It is good in very small amounts on a loose buff to polish plastic but you have to be VERY careful not to melt the plastic.

Have a separate buff for each colour and mark them appropriately with a sharpie.


----------



## albrazzi

SloopJonB said:


> They are for different metals as well as different levels of polishing - quick course in the tech standards;
> 
> Ferrous metal - Grey - coarse, Green - polish, White - ultra fine
> 
> Non- Ferrous - Brown - coarse, White - polish, Red - ultra fine
> 
> In practice I have found on stainless and aluminium that Brown (Tripoli) followed by Green is the fastest and easiest. The White doesn't work as well for me as the Green on S/S. Over time I have used twice as many sticks of Green as the others. I only use spiral sewn buffs for S/S
> 
> I have tried using Red (rouge) to bring up maximum lustre but find in practice it doesn't really do much on S/S.
> 
> It is good in vary small amounts on a loose buff to polish plastic but you have to be VERY careful not to melt the plastic.
> 
> Have a separate buff for each colour and mark them appropriately with a sharpie.


Man you're better than GOOGLE. Thanks much. I might get another buff and some brown, Ill see how it looks first. I thought there was a universal code to the colors. I've done a lot of stuff and this is new to me.

Thanks again Jon


----------



## SloopJonB

De Nada.

Remember, pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## albrazzi

So far so good. Next time Ill skip the flap wheel and go straight to the scotchbrite I think I made a little more work than necessary. The spots are reflections from a ceiling fan, nice finish.


----------



## SloopJonB

Looks great, especially for a first effort.

It takes a few different pieces to start to get a feel for what will work best.


----------



## albrazzi

Thanks, I'm not looking for shine as much as corrosion resistance, these pieces are going to stand out a bit on an older Boat but if I don't polish them it will be ugly. Its nice to master a new skill, I'll get there.


----------



## midwesterner

I'm making repairs on my 1969 Chrysler Lonestar 16. I needed to tighten and repair the jib sheet cam cleats but they were installed on the deck before it was attached to the hull. I needed to remove the side cushions and make an access hole to be able to reach the nuts on the underside of the screws.

The side cushions are thin pieces of plywood covered with foam and vinyl upholstery. I will replace them.


----------



## seabeau

SloopJonB said:


> Pick up a small bench buffer at HF for $40 along with a stick of green compound. Wet sand the plates through the grits up to about 1000 grit or thereabouts then polish them with the green stick and the buffer - they'll look like chrome.
> 
> Then you have the buffer to keep your metal bits looking good for years to come.
> 
> Some samples before & after.


 What do you use to corral those small and irregular parts as you minister to them to keep them from sliding all over the place?


----------



## SloopJonB

Hang on tight! Wear gloves because it is a filthy process and the piece can get very hot as well.

Make sure you are only using the "down" part of the buff - it should always be moving away from you where it contacts the workpiece.

Very small parts like bolt heads can occasionally fly across the room but holding them with vice grips minimizes it.


----------



## travlin-easy

I use a pair of welder's gloves when high speed polishing metal parts, which not only protects your hands from the heated surface, but the gloves also protect you from injury when some parts go flying in the wrong direction.

Gary


----------



## seabeau

travlineasy said:


> I use a pair of welder's gloves when high speed polishing metal parts, which not only protects your hands from the heated surface, but the gloves also protect you from injury when some parts go flying in the wrong direction.
> 
> Gary


Like those high gauntlet style? To the elbows?


----------



## SloopJonB

Can't hurt but I just use split cowhide work gloves. If you are doing small pieces you'll find the fingertips get worn through :wink so it's better to not use expensive ones.

The stiffer the gloves are the more parts go flying as well - finger dexterity is important.

One other thing - it's best to do it outside. As I mentioned, it is a filthy process and the flying grime is waxy so it sticks wherever it lands.


----------



## seabeau

SloopJonB said:


> Can't hurt but I just use split cowhide work gloves. If you are doing small pieces you'll find the fingertips get worn through :wink so it's better to not use expensive ones.
> 
> The stiffer the gloves are the more parts go flying as well - finger dexterity is important.
> 
> One other thing - it's best to do it outside. As I mentioned, it is a filthy process and the flying grime is waxy so it sticks wherever it lands.


 That sound reasonable. I've got an old side grinder somewhere about but its industrial and might be too difficult to handle on small parts. I'll get some of those abrasive sticks and give that stuff a try. My old boat could use some "brightening up". Thanks.


----------



## albrazzi

I routed a recess in a piece of hardwood to hold my parts while using scotch brite pads, they can still fly out at times but it works pretty good. For the buffer, gloves.


----------



## travlin-easy

seabeau said:


> Like those high gauntlet style? To the elbows?


Yes, I purchased them from a local welding shop for about $20. Best investment in year, and they last forever.

Gary


----------



## seabeau

albrazzi said:


> I routed a recess in a piece of hardwood to hold my parts while using scotch brite pads, they can still fly out at times but it works pretty good. For the buffer, gloves.


That's an excellent suggestion and just what I needed, thank you.


----------



## midwesterner

I'm getting all the little issues resolved on my boat for summer sailing. 

I replaced the tiller handle with something a little more substantial.


----------



## travlin-easy

I purchased a GoPro video camera, mainly to document some of the upcoming summer trips on Chesapeake Bay. Turns out, this is a great tool for looking at places in the engine room that I could not normally see. Using the selfie stick, I was able look behind and beneath the engine in an effort to locate a fuel leak. Also, because the camera is completely waterproof to depths of 131 feet, I was able to look at the prop and intakes to make sure they were not fouled with all the aquatic grasses that now grows in the marina. Because the lens is ultra-wide-angle, there is never a problem with focus and you can see everything within a radius of 180 degrees. It's a great tool and not at all expensive. However, the camera does not have a builtin monitor, therefore, you must connect it to your computer/tablet via the USB port in order to see the images. 

Cheers,

Gary


----------



## TakeFive

travlineasy said:


> I purchased a GoPro video camera, mainly to document some of the upcoming summer trips on Chesapeake Bay. Turns out, this is a great tool for looking at places in the engine room that I could not normally see. Using the selfie stick, I was able look behind and beneath the engine in an effort to locate a fuel leak. Also, because the camera is completely waterproof to depths of 131 feet, I was able to look at the prop and intakes to make sure they were not fouled with all the aquatic grasses that now grows in the marina. Because the lens is ultra-wide-angle, there is never a problem with focus and you can see everything within a radius of 180 degrees. It's a great tool and not at all expensive. However, the camera does not have a builtin monitor, therefore, you must connect it to your computer/tablet via the USB port in order to see the images.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Gary


FYI, there is a knockoff of the GoPro that is almost as good picture quality (a little bluer in most comparisons) for a lot less money. More importantly, their $60 version has Wifi, so you can run an app on your smartphone which turns your phone into a remote monitor with camera controls on the phone:

Amazon.com: Original Sjcam Sj4000 Wifi Action Camera Sports Helmet Head Video Camcorder (black): Camera & Photo

You need to be careful who you buy from, because this knockoff has been so successful that there are now knockoffs of the knockoff. Apparently the company did not trademark the model number "SJ4000" so others have poached the name. You need to make sure to get the SJ4000 made by SJCAM (the company name is trademarked).

They have newer UltraHD versions for a little more money, but I have no experience with them. I've been very happy with the version I bought last year.

I know that genuine GoPro also has Wifi versions available, but more expensive.


----------



## CharlzO

On that note, there's an ActiveOn company that's similar, and sells in some box stores (K-Mart for example). under $100 most of the time, and works just fine. Tested the waterproof case on my first outing, and it worked just fine for that too


----------



## Barquito

I think I may need to add one of these "tools" to my toolbox. 
Seriously, diving into Lake Michigan in the spring to look for a wrapped prop could be avoided.


----------



## travlin-easy

Barquito said:


> I think I may need to add one of these "tools" to my toolbox.
> Seriously, diving into Lake Michigan in the spring to look for a wrapped prop could be avoided.


Great for checking the prop, intakes and rudder. I've done this using my 5-foot long selfie stick.

All the best,

Gary


----------



## willyd

*Low buck projects- let's see 'em!*

I was missing a tab on my windex, so I made one from a lemon soda can and section of reflective tape I got at Hrbr. Frght. for five bucks.










from bottom, with flash:










I still need to glue the tab to the rod.


----------



## albrazzi

Follow up on some stanchion reinforcements I made a while back finally got them installed and they work great. There's a 6" long Flat bar underneath so the contact area of the inboard foot is increased dramatically. Pictures of the polishing jig I made.


----------



## This Old Sailboat

A $7 cockpit table that needs no additional space to store.

Take one of your locker lids and attach it with temporary mounts to the mainsheet traveler, pushpit rail, or transom. Rubber pole clips work great in my case. Support the front of the lid with your tiller, a folding leg, or cord tied to the boom and voila! When you're done using it as a table, put it back as the locker lid.

For full details and more pictures, click the picture below to visit my blog at stingysailor.com.


----------



## jongleur

Great idea! Thanks.


----------



## Minnesail

This Old Sailboat said:


> Take one of your locker lids and attach it with temporary mounts to the mainsheet traveler, pushpit rail, or transom. Rubber pole clips work great in my case. Support the front of the lid with your tiller, a folding leg, or cord tied to the boom and voila! When you're done using it as a table, put it back as the locker lid.


I'm so doing that!


----------



## fred1diver

at the size of my locker lids, I'd have a small table for one lol


----------



## pdqaltair

Floating Tool Tray

Ever have to work in the water while swimming and wonder where to put your tools and parts? Take a dishpan (or mortar mixing tray for really big jobs!), drill a hole in the lip, and put a 3' x 1/8" line through it as a lanyard. Just tie it to something handy and your tool tray is right there. 

I have a catamaran with twin outboards slung underneath and other systems only accessible swimming, since the clearance is not enough for a dingy AND headroom. I've pulled a lower unit and replace the impeller using this system. Fortunately, I had done it on dry land and knew the drill. Last week I was installing an external strainer over a troublesome intake, using a hand drill and a depth stop to drill the holes. It went smoothly enough.


----------



## Barquito

Obviously you have not discovered floating tools:


----------



## SV Dayenu

WOW! And THANK YOU to everyone who posted here.
I only recently registered and came across a couple of posts and thought this was a forum unto itself and figured I'd come back and read it through... LOL!
When I found it again, I went to the beginning and read the WHOLE THING!!!
FANTASTIC ideas! I bookmarked links and saved photos for reference for work we're about to do on our boat. (C26)...
Just had to say thank you... Really got my brain spinning with inspiration and ideas for items I want to put into place.
Best,
Richard


----------



## arknoah

*Re: Low buck projects- let's see 'em!*



willyd said:


> I was missing a tab on my windex, so I made one from a lemon soda can and section of reflective tape I got at Hrbr. Frght. for five bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from bottom, with flash:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue the tab to the rod.


Outstanding and so simple!


----------



## pdqaltair

Barquito said:


> Obviously you have not discovered floating tools:


Now all I need to find are floating parts. There are a few non-floating parts and several non-floating pairs of glasses in my slip.


----------



## TakeFive

pdqaltair said:


> Now all I need to find are floating parts. There are a few non-floating parts and several non-floating pairs of glasses in my slip.



I always wear eyeglass retainers. Tool retainers, not so much.


----------



## KayakerChuck

I just bought my first "real" sailboat. This thread is dangerous.

Thanks for all the ideas! Now I just need to find some time.


----------



## Kaj Culom

Wow! you folks are all terrifically creative, you've given me lot's of ideas! Only problem is all these low bucks ideas are starting to add up! lol


----------



## heisman86

If anyone is having trouble seeing the pictures like I was, download this extension for google chrome (only works for chrome) and you will be able to see almost all pictures. the extension fixes the links to photobucket.
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg


----------



## willyd

We have a big scum problem at our dock, and a dock mate of mine spent $70 on a brush like this one. I spotted a brush that looks remarkably similar for $3 at H&[email protected] Fr*!ght yesterday and duct taped it to an old boat pole and I'm very pleased.


----------



## Markwesti

I love this topic , lets see if we can get it going again .

Need some inspiration ? Get this book .
https://www.amazon.com/Sailors-Sketchbook-Bruce-Bingham/dp/0071550968


----------



## Arcb

I am a bit over the $100 mark, but considering inflation since this thread started 10 years ago, I am pretty close. Ive spent maybe $160 cdn, so maybe $120 US. The project has been quite a bit of effort but has been cheap with the biggest expense being 3 sheets of 1/4" douglas fir ply and some hardware store pine to build frame and internal chines, tite bond glue and a bit of fibreglass tape and epoxy to seal the seams.

The rig is a rig I had laying around the house and am currently using for 2 other boats (my WB8 and my sailing canoe). Oars are the oars off my WB8.

Its a complete boat hull, a class legal PDRacer. The design is my own. The boat was specifically designed to nest in the back of a Grand Caravan with the middle row of seats up. Carrying capacity is adeqyate to carry the whole family (in extremely protected waters), without needing to trailer or even car top a boat. Couple of pics.


----------



## paulinnanaimo

Arcb

It's very ingenious, but what do you use it for?


----------



## Arcb

paulinnanaimo said:


> Arcb
> 
> It's very ingenious, but what do you use it for?


Aside from the pleasure I got from designing, building and tinkering.

I am going to race it. For one design racing its not supposed to matter how fast the core design is, what matters should be that all the boats are the same general speed, so most classes should be competitive within their class, in theory any way. The class isnt as big as it was 10 years ago, but there are still lots of PDRs out there racing.

I am also going to experiment with it as a camp cruiser. The box design allows for a sizable pay load. So in theory, my son and I could load the boat into the van and go to a wetland, pond, lake or river, assemble the boat on the beach, load it up with camping gear and go exploring. The boat has two sizable dry cargo areas for tent, sleeping bags and food.

Or as a day sailor. We just got back from a road trip to Cape Breton- about 2000 km with a canoe onthe roof and sailing rig in the back. The Cape Breton Highlands werent a fantastivc place for bombing along at 110 kph with 70kph cross winds with a boat on the roof, but you wouldnt even notice a boat nested in the back inside of the car. So same thing. Road trip some where, set up camp on the beach, assemble your boat on arrival and use it for day sailing.


----------



## TomMaine

I was tied up next to this old motor cruiser this season. I loved the table lamp in the 'window'. At night it was pleasant glow to see.










You don't see 'table lamps' on boats, for obvious reasons. But I had a dark area between the saloon and vee berth below in our boat, and that lamp got me thinking...

I had swapped out all the incandescent bulbs for LED's in our household bulb cabin fixtures. LED's are available in 12VDC household base in various wattages and color temperatures and I had a couple spares on hand. Lamp parts, remember those?










Sailboats like ours are smaller than that big cruiser - I'd have to scale things down. I knew small(4-6") lamp shades are available to fit chandelier bulbs. I bought a couple of those. Now a base. My dark space, has a high fiddled shelf under a port. We have Maine beach finds around the house and boat. A rolled rock, formed by eons of pounding surf on our granite islands, caught my. I drilled it for the threaded lamp pipe. Not high enough so I added another to make a cairn. I sat it in a doughnut of silicone (on an oiled surface) to form a non skid base. But I also tied the wiring below for security.










Not only did it light the passageway at night,.....










...it added another warm light on the harbor. Just what I was looking for in the port.










With extra parts, I put another together out of a cut of drift wood and a Lexan base for stability. For this one, I added a 16/2 cord and plug so it could be stored and used if you extra light.

Cost is about $20 per lamp, including a 7 watt bulb.


----------



## Markwesti

This is so simple (the way I did it) the true marline spikers will cringe , maybe this winter I'll do some splicing . Anyhow the toggle is from the bay . It was advertised as a sweater button/toggle there were some interesting ones made from bone but I landed on the wood ones , 5 for 2 bucks .
IMG_0050 by mark westi, on Flickr

IMG_0051 by mark westi, on Flickr

IMG_0052 by mark westi, on Flickr


----------



## pdqaltair

Markwesti said:


> I love this topic , lets see if we can get it going again .
> 
> Need some inspiration ? Get this book .
> https://www.amazon.com/Sailors-Sketchbook-Bruce-Bingham/dp/0071550968


The cover is falling off and the pages falling out. I guess I need to convert it to 3-ring soon. A great reference, not just for the examples, but for the way of thinking.

You might also like "Keeping a Cruising Boat for Peanuts." I'm not shy--I wrote it. My wife swears spreading money thin is my best skill. It's the only way I get to keep sailing.
https://amzn.to/2RGJK7e


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## Locke

Might as well resurrect this a bit. Maybe get some new posts here. 
For my Mac 22. I needed a mast crutch for transport. Didn't want to buy one so I made one. Mostly from scrap materials I had laying about but maybe cost $20, most of the cost was the paint I used.

Got a few more projects on the way, just waiting on other things to line up.


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## Jagl

*Re: screen cockpit enclosure*

Great idea


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## ggray

This:
1 Is not a project, although it saves money, time, and aggravation.
2 May well be something all of you have already figured out

But I have old rolls of masking tape (the tan, cheap stuff) that especially when my shop is cold, resist dispensing tape cleanly, w/o shredding and making a mess.

A few seconds in the microwave before use allows the tape to release cleanly from the roll.


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## rpludwig

So the Admiral wanted a small galley for our <86 C-22, a piece of 5/4x6"x6' Sapele, a scrap sink cutout of Corian about 50 bucks total. (the Whale pump faucet and SS sink put it over the $100 limit, but still quite economical, under $180 overall). Room left of sink for an Iwatani butane burner, or cutting board/food prep area. Tilt out drawer front provides access to plenty stowage space for flatware, dishes, utensils, solo cups, koozies, etc.

Water supply is a 5 gal. Walmart collapsible camping bladder in the v-berth plumbed to the faucet ($10 total).

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?attachments/p1020679-jpg.137743/

the build is here: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/admirals-galley-12502.185659/


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## MarkofSeaLife

rpludwig said:


> So the Admiral wanted a small galley for our <86 C-22, a piece of 5/4x6"x6' Sapele, a scrap sink cutout of Corian about 50 bucks total. (the Whale pump faucet and SS sink put it over the $100 limit, but still quite economical, under $180 overall). Room left of sink for an Iwatani butane burner, or cutting board/food prep area. Tilt out drawer front provides access to plenty stowage space for flatware, dishes, utensils, solo cups, koozies, etc.
> 
> Water supply is a 5 gal. Walmart collapsible camping bladder in the v-berth plumbed to the faucet ($10 total).
> 
> https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?attachments/p1020679-jpg.137743/
> 
> the build is here: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/admirals-galley-12502.185659/


Looks excellent! Well done!

.


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## nomad65

What a great thread!!
Thank you all 
Gunny


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## Minnesail

Corded 12-volt drill

I don't have an inverter on my little boat, so I'm limited to the charge on my cordless drill. Also the drill is usually at home when I want it on the boat.

I have this 20+ year old Ryobi 12-volt cordless drill whose charger finally died. Instead of tossing it in with the electronics recycling, I re-purposed it to be a dedicated boat drill.

I took apart the battery pack, removed the batteries, drilled a hole in the back, and crimped on 16 AWG cigarette lighter adapter and cord.

Viola, now I have a drill just for my boat! And no need to worry about recharging anything. Total cost $10 for the cigarette adapter and cord.


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## tschmidty

Dang that is genius. I want a dedicated boat drill but carrying battery+charger, etc. is a bit much, would love this option.


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## KayakerChuck

thank you!

I need a boat drill for all the obvious reasons, and I have a few old 12v drills that I was going to toss. 

Thanks for posting this before I actually tossed them in a dumpster.


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## Rhapsody-NS27

I've heard of people doing this mod before. I have a 12v drill I plan to do this with once the battery stops taking a charge. Good reminder.


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## Minnesail

The silly thing was... I was actually browsing the internet looking for a corded 12-volt drill. Of course all my search results came back with battery powered drills. Then I remembered the junk gathering dust in the garage.


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## Jeff_H

I thought that I might have posted this here, but scanning back through the various pages, I apparently didn't. I like to steer from the the sides of the cockpit near the rail of the boat where I can better see the jib teletales. 


The problem is that it is hard to see the GPS/Chartplotter from the side of the boat unless it is able to rotate. I had seen commercial GPS mounts but they all looked either too flimsy or were wildly expensive and most did not rotate. I ended up designing this simple starboard turn-table to mount the GPS on. It works very well and did not take very long to make.







Jeff


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## Jeff_H

The other really low buck project was a cover for the end of my boom. Like many performance boats my boom end fitting has an opening that allows you to reeve new lines or replace the hardware that lives is inside the boom. This opening has been very appealing to birds and every spring I would have bird's nesting in the end of my boom. So I made this little cover out of prefinished aluminum flashing that I cut to shape and folded over to hem. I then made a naugahyde cover for the aluminum in case someone came in contact with it. The naugahyde was cut oversized to allow for a 1/2" margin and glued in place with contact cement. I folded and glued the margin onto the back of the aluminum before screwing it in place.


----------



## richland.ranger

Some horrible bent/twisted mahogany from Jamestown Distributors I think, a piece of red oak I had laying around (the leg) and a plywood top with some grooves routed in to look shippy. Lowes white paint and an old can of Cetol. Mix in some sloppy cuts and voila! Fold down table.


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## Locke

Needed a better way to raise and lower the mast on my Mac 22. I didn't want to drop a few hundred on an actual mast raising system. So, I just made one. Works great. Got to use it today.
Made from a heavy gauge fence post, winch, 1/8" cable, hook, a pulley, and a length of water hose just big enough to get on the foot of it. Total cost was $30. Maybe. I bought the winch used for $5. Post was $8, cable hook, and everything else was maybe $10-15.
Works great. and makes raising and lowering the mast crazy easy.


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## Locke

I don't have the pictures but I finally finished wiring my boat up. New masthead light, bow and stern lights, and interior lights. Got a battery, a small solar panel, and a battery tender solar controller for my birthday and so I wired them in. I used good tinned marine wire. In total I have about $80 in it not counting the gifts. Those would add another $200 to the project. However, I got it all wired up and running. Full LED and I'm all good for an overnight trip now. I'll be hooking up my fish finder to test it out. I need to find a good spot to mount it. If I can find a good place then I'll need to mount it and then I'll be good for a while. I think from here on out it'll either be repairs to things I break or accessories. I'll worry about that when the time comes though. I think if I can get this last little bit up and working I just may have the nicest Mac 22 out there. lol


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## RegisteredUser

2" industrial velcro makes for easy temp...or permanent mounting...and still portable.


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## Locke

RegisteredUser said:


> 2" industrial velcro makes for easy temp...or permanent mounting...and still portable.


That's a good idea. I'm more concerned about the location. The cockpit is fairly small and space is a premium. Although, with velcro I may be able to mount it in different places. I'll play with it this weekend while I'm out.


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## Capt Len

When converting a 12v drill ,may I suggest HD speaker wire. Flexible and big amp compatible. I built a 17 ' sailboat on the beach in Thailand .Makita and a car battery


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## Barquito

Locke said:


> That's a good idea. I'm more concerned about the location. The cockpit is fairly small and space is a premium. Although, with velcro I may be able to mount it in different places. I'll play with it this weekend while I'm out.


An arm that swings from inside the cabin, into the companion way works well. You may also consider mounting them on a board that replaces one of the hatch boards.


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## TakeFive

RAM mounts are great. Their suction cup rubber ball mount allows you to put something on virtually any smooth flat surface - companionway hatch, plexiglass port, vertical gunwale. I have a rubber ball permanently attached at the top of my binnacle for mounting my chartplotter for when sitting at the helm (or adjacent to the helm, since it can rotate 360 degrees around). When the weather turns bad, I put the suction cup under the dodger and move the chartplotter there. I also take the suction cup to others' boats to mount my stuff temporarily if doing a delivery or charter.


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## Locke

TakeFive said:


> RAM mounts are great. Their suction cup rubber ball mount allows you to put something on virtually any smooth flat surface - companionway hatch, plexiglass port, vertical gunwale. I have a rubber ball permanently attached at the top of my binnacle for mounting my chartplotter for when sitting at the helm (or adjacent to the helm, since it can rotate 360 degrees around). When the weather turns bad, I put the suction cup under the dodger and move the chartplotter there. I also take the suction cup to others' boats to mount my stuff temporarily if doing a delivery or charter.


I didn't know there were suction cup RAM mounts.....That would work great. I could move it around as the situation demands. I use a permanent base for one on my fishing boat. I like those Ram mounts. I'll see about getting one on my next payday. I just spent a lot more than I planned on for this last one.


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## danvon

This is genius. What is the amp draw on the drill? Does it spike up high if the drill gets bogged down in tough material?


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## Minnesail

danvon said:


> This is genius. What is the amp draw on the drill? Does it spike up high if the drill gets bogged down in tough material?


I've heard some people say they have a binary depth sounder - their keel. Either they're aground or they're not.

Well, I have a binary amp meter. Either I've blown the fuse or I haven't. So I know that the drill draws less than 15 amps, but I couldn't say how much less. If it bogs down it does drop the voltage enough so that you can see the cabin lights dim.


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## danvon

Minnesail said:


> I've heard some people say they have a binary depth sounder - their keel. Either they're aground or they're not.
> 
> Well, I have a binary amp meter. Either I've blown the fuse or I haven't. So I know that the drill draws less than 15 amps, but I couldn't say how much less. If it bogs down it does drop the voltage enough so that you can see the cabin lights dim.


That's a good enough answer for me. Less than 15 A should be fine.


----------



## Frederic Tremblay

just working n a double jetboil burner gimbal, it's just a prototype at the moment, still trying to figure out how to fix it in the boat (75 Grampian 26)


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## RegisteredUser

Props to you
But wouldnt a cheap 2 burner propane bottle camp stove be cheaper in the long run...


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## Frederic Tremblay

already had a jetboil burner, was already thinking about getting another one (java model) so all that was needed was the wood, about 40$ and have plenty leftover for a few other projects.

I have a 2 burner stove, but it's a bit too wide for my galley and I wanted a gimballed stove


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## Capt Len

Have you calculated the centre of mass of a pot of clams on the burner?


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## skills4lou

I made a may raising system today from stuff I already had laying around the shop. An 8 ft 2x3, 2 5/16" eye bolts, 2 smaller eye screws,a couple 2" wood screws, a scrap of line and main sheet with tackle. 
Apparently the whole mast raising/lowering was really stressful on the wife. Now, it's so simple and controlled. This is easily the best mod so far.






























Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk


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## TakeFive

skills4lou said:


> I made a may raising system today from stuff I already had laying around the shop. An 8 ft 2x3, 2 5/16" eye bolts, 2 smaller eye screws,a couple 2" wood screws, a scrap of line and main sheet with tackle.
> Apparently the whole mast raising/lowering was really stressful on the wife. Now, it's so simple and controlled. This is easily the best mod so far...


I would strongly recommend that you PLEASE DO NOT use any gin pole out that is made out of lumber. I had a very similar arrangement made out of a 2x4, with multiple eye bolts on both sides like yours. Mine used a winch and strap (instead of block and tackle). I used it to raise and lower my mast at the beginning and end of every season. It worked fine for a few years, but in spring of 2016 I heard a "crack" as I was raising my mast. Since the mast was almost all the way up (where tension was lower), I kept cranking (and praying), since I knew that lowering it would increase the tension again and could lead to catastrophe. Once the mast was up, I removed the gin pole for inspection and was appalled at what I saw. I had carefully calculated all the stresses when I designed it, but I failed to account for how the eye bolts would be torqued within the holes I had drilled. That massive torque caused splitting and separation along the wood grain. I had very narrowly averted disaster. If you use your wooden gin pole built with a 2x3, you will eventually encounter the same problem:


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## skills4lou

Thanks for the tip. I used some screws to help alleviate that problem, screwed in from either side and long enough to almost poke out the far side. If it looks like that won't do it then I'll weld up a plate with a ring for each side and thru bolt it. The pole is 8' long to keep the stress down and yet still be able to store it. I'll be sure to inspect it each time though.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk


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## miatapaul

TakeFive said:


> I would strongly recommend that you PLEASE DO NOT use any gin pole out that is made out of lumber. I had a very similar arrangement made out of a 2x4, with multiple eye bolts on both sides like yours. Mine used a winch and strap (instead of block and tackle). I used it to raise and lower my mast at the beginning and end of every season. It worked fine for a few years, but in spring of 2016 I heard a "crack" as I was raising my mast. Since the mast was almost all the way up (where tension was lower), I kept cranking (and praying), since I knew that lowering it would increase the tension again and could lead to catastrophe. Once the mast was up, I removed the gin pole for inspection and was appalled at what I saw. I had carefully calculated all the stresses when I designed it, but I failed to account for how the eye bolts would be torqued within the holes I had drilled. That massive torque caused splitting and separation along the wood grain. I had very narrowly averted disaster. If you use your wooden gin pole built with a 2x3, you will eventually encounter the same problem:


What would you recommend as a material? I am thinking of doing similar for my HobieCat. Granted lot less weight in the mast but would like it to be semi permanent and being it is raised every time i use the boat. I was thinking a piece of aluminum tubing should work.


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## TakeFive

Tubing would be best.


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## Barquito

Our mast tabernacle did not keep the mast in-line laterally. We had to try to support the mast itself to keep it from flopping from side to side. Personally, I think if you are not a little nervous raising the mast, you have not thought out all of the possible things that could happen with a failure. It is worth working to make it as robust as possible.


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## miatapaul

Barquito said:


> Our mast tabernacle did not keep the mast in-line laterally. We had to try to support the mast itself to keep it from flopping from side to side. Personally, I think if you are not a little nervous raising the mast, you have not thought out all of the possible things that could happen with a failure. It is worth working to make it as robust as possible.


I agree, if you think of the damage done if there is a failure then wow. Even if the mast on my Hobie were to come tumbling down it could easily kill someone or do a lot of damage to a car. A keel boat's mast would be much worse. I am just trying to make it easier for a fat old middle aged guy to do it by myself. Even if I have people with me they won't likely know what to do anyway so I figure make it as easy as possible for me to do it myself is the safest. I know there are some kits available for the Hobie, but they utilize the post that supports the mast on the trailer, and mine is not high enough so a custom poll is in order.


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## skills4lou

On my SJ21, the chain plates are in line with the mast pivot point, so the shrouds keep the mast aligned on the way up and down. I have a couple lines for the gin pole to keep it aligned during the process, and tie them off on the deck railing.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk


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## jephotog

TakeFive said:


> I would strongly recommend that you PLEASE DO NOT use any gin pole out that is made out of lumber. I had a very similar arrangement made out of a 2x4, with multiple eye bolts on both sides like yours.
> 
> View attachment 136053


There would be a lot of ways to avoid having this happen. This is more of a design flaw than a material failure issue. Drilling four holes in a row along the wood's grain is why the wood failed.

I agree there may be better options for materials than wood but wood is so easy to come by and work with. If you are trying to push woods limitations like 4 bolts right next to each other you can laminate two boards together, glue and screw. When I want to strengthen some wood I will laminate two pieces of wood with some plywood between. Unless you have unreasonable expectations of the wood or design something wrong, wood should be fine for a trailer sailor mast raising system.


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## TakeFive

jephotog said:


> There would be a lot of ways to avoid having this happen. This is more of a design flaw than a material failure issue. Drilling four holes in a row along the wood's grain is why the wood failed...I agree there may be better options for materials than wood...


The torque of any one eyebolt (or eye screw) against its hole is enough to start a crack along the grain. Once a crack starts, it is easy to propagate. This can happen with only one screw. A 2x3 is a poor material to use in a hazardous function like this.

If something bad happens and the lawyers come looking, I want to be explicitly clear that I am in the "do not do this" camp.


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## Ulladh

HemFir splits easily even stud grade. Use a double 2x4 instead of single 2x4. Through bolt with oversize washers both side. 
Use eye bolt and eye nut which will reduce the number of holes by half. Cast eyes will distort less than bent wire. The load should be in line with the eye ring not perpendicular to the eye

Line the drilled hole with a short section of copper pipe as bushing (1/2" ID copper for 1/2" threaded bolt requires 5/8" bored hole) this reduces point loads from the threads on wood.

Western red cedar will split less than hemfir.

The majority of loads on a jin pole are compressive, if using a pipe select wall thickness for compressive loads.


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## Barquito

I just had two steel pipes that were hammered flat on the ends. A hole was drilled through each end, and attached to the chainplates at the bottom, and together at the top. A block and tackle gave some mechanical advantage for raising. It helped a lot to have the furling foresail OFF the forestay. The weight of the genoa would put a bend in the forstay that would make the angle required to begin to pull the gin pole difficult to overcome. This wasn't so much of a problem if there was someone to lift the rig off the deck for the first 5 feet.


----------



## ben2go

Cost, free! A guy in an inflatable dink ran hard up on the beach scaring all the women and children that were nearby. Us men folk sensing something wrong ran down to see what was going on. Turned out the plastic garboard plug in the fiberglass transom blew out and as long as he kept the throttle pinned the water would be sucked out. Everyone wondered around the near baren beach looking for something to plug the hole. I went to a friend's boat and got a mushroom type of wine cork. I whittled it down with my pookeet knife and stuffed in his garboard hole. Problem solved, Temporarliy I hope.

Also, thread bump.


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## Locke

It's been too long since the last entry. So here's mine.
I just finished a project and I have about $30 or less in it. 
I have been wanting a tiller extention for a while. I had been looking at the Harken ones but I didn't want to drop $50-60 or better on it. So I made one!
I started by ordering a Ronstan Battlestick universal joint. Once I had that I looked around for a suitable handle. I looked at golf clubs but the shafts were way too narrow. There are no ski resorts any semblance of near to me so there are no ski poles. I ended up finding that a 3/4 aluminum pipe is just slightly larger than the joint. I had one laying in my scrap metal pile from a previous project. I wrapped some electrical tape around the joint to make up the difference then found a 1/4" line out in a Walmart parking lot. I used that to wrap a handle on the pipe. I started with a turk's head knot then french hitched about a 18" handle on followed by another turk's head knot. Turned out real nice. 
From there I measured out how wide my cockpit is and decided that a little better than half the width would be a good size. I used a tubing cutter to make a clean straight cut, deburred the inside, then set the joint in. Once complete it looks great. I ordered a tube end cap off Amazon to finish it out and I'm all set.
Now if only I could get the weather to cooperate so I can go sailing. I've either not had any wind or been well below freezing but perfect wind. Or I have a perfect day but I'm stuck in the office. Bleh.


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## H2814D

Locke said:


> It's been too long since the last entry. So here's mine.
> I just finished a project and I have about $30 or less in it.
> I have been wanting a tiller extention for a while. I had been looking at the Harken ones but I didn't want to drop $50-60 or better on it. So I made one!
> I started by ordering a Ronstan Battlestick universal joint. Once I had that I looked around for a suitable handle. I looked at golf clubs but the shafts were way too narrow. There are no ski resorts any semblance of near to me so there are no ski poles. I ended up finding that a 3/4 aluminum pipe is just slightly larger than the joint. I had one laying in my scrap metal pile from a previous project. I wrapped some electrical tape around the joint to make up the difference then found a 1/4" line out in a Walmart parking lot. I used that to wrap a handle on the pipe. I started with a turk's head knot then french hitched about a 18" handle on followed by another turk's head knot. Turned out real nice.
> From there I measured out how wide my cockpit is and decided that a little better than half the width would be a good size. I used a tubing cutter to make a clean straight cut, deburred the inside, then set the joint in. Once complete it looks great. I ordered a tube end cap off Amazon to finish it out and I'm all set.
> Now if only I could get the weather to cooperate so I can go sailing. I've either not had any wind or been well below freezing but perfect wind. Or I have a perfect day but I'm stuck in the office. Bleh.


Sorry, but without pictures, you never made it.


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## Locke

H2814D said:


> Sorry, but without pictures, you never made it.


K, I'll fix that tomorrow.


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## Locke

H2814D said:


> Sorry, but without pictures, you never made it.


This is the best you're getting. I'm not stepping the mast and setting the rudder for a picture. Besides, it's cold and the neighbors look at me funny when I'm running around in my undies.







I really need to wash my boat. Dust storm made a mess of it.


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## Locke

I had a productive day. I spent the morning playing around on my boat. Wish I could have been sailing but there was absolutely no wind. But boat projects are still fun. Here's what I got done.
First off I had to replace a piece on my companionway hatch.








The old one is on top. Cost $0
Next up is a sliding door on the galley. There was nothing to keep it from sliding off. So I added a latch.








Cost $2 it was an open box deal.
Next up was the stove. 
When I got my boat there was a stainless steel stove in it. I like the stove but the galley surface is super slick and I couldn't get it to stay put so.








Those little clear tabs were great and I can remove them if I need to. Cost $7 there are a lot of those tabs.
Lastly there was the problem with the gas canister. The stove connection is on the right. Which causes the can to sit in the sink at a weird angle. It puts a good bit of strain on the connection tube. My solution was a $10 extention.
















I am able to have my stove next to the companionway, secured yet removable. And I still have access to the sink, fan, and it's all non-permenant.
I'm thinking of making a rack or something to fit on the side of the galley box to use for maps or books or something.
I'm getting my little Mac22 set up pretty nice. I'm trying to get to get the dirty projects out of the way as I'm going to do a deep cleaning before the season starts.


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## SloopJonB

I posted this on Anarchy but thought some here might find it useful too.

A quick & easy way to make teak (or other woods) finger pulls.
















Teak Finger Pulls


Recently someone was asking about these things and I also recently saw a magazine article on making them but the process detailed in it was unnecessarily complicated. They sell for more than $5 each in the stores but you can make your own from scrap wood in a few minutes using only 3 hole saws...




forums.sailinganarchy.com


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## marcjsmith

Damn. Wish I had projects under a 100 bucks....


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## Locke

marcjsmith said:


> Damn. Wish I had projects under a 100 bucks....


Well I've got a solution for you! You can send me $100 and I'll do a project on my boat for you!


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## marcjsmith

Locke said:


> Well I've got a solution for you! You can send me $100 and I'll do a project on my boat for you!


Yeah, thats no quite how it works, I don't think... if SWMBO knew i was paying other people to work on their own boats....the discussion would not end well...

does changing the oil count as a project? maybe the one thing I've done recenlty that even comes remotely close to being under a hundred bucks...


----------



## Locke

marcjsmith said:


> Yeah, thats no quite how it works, I don't think... if SWMBO knew i was paying other people to work on their own boats....the discussion would not end well...
> 
> does changing the oil count as a project? maybe the one thing I've done recenlty that even comes remotely close to being under a hundred bucks...


Sounds like a project to me.


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## Locke

I've got me a surprising Low Buck Project. Thanks to my work's generosity, I was able to get a Simrad TP10 auto pilot, a ram extension, tiller bracket, and a new plug for a whopping total of $32.48. That's it. $32.48. I'm still waiting on the bracket and extension but I'm expecting it this week. I plan on installing it this coming weekend. Woo hoo!


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## AWT2_Sail

After staring at the prices of swivel shackles at WM for half an hour, I made soft shackles myself to replace the PO’s loops of 1/4” double braid line for the topping lift. Everything is 3/16 dyneema plus the 22 mm Harken mini blocks, the lower with a V jamb, and it easily came in under $100. 3/16” may have been overkill…
of


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## jaschrumpf

I'll have to post my photos from my phone, but this was a really simple project and I think it's easy to visualize. First, the need: I have a Hunter 31 and I single hand a lot. I don't like banging off the pilings as I pull out of the slip, and I'm not able to reach the wheel and throttle as easily as in my first boat. If I go forward and hold the bow over to the windward piling, by the time I reach the wheel she's banging off the lee piling.

Solution: rig a quick-release for the bow lines that I can execute from the wheel.

Important criteria: You gotta have something like THIS up front:









Parts: two 6" dowels about 1/2 - 5/8 in. diameter.
two eyelets that'll screw into the flat ends of the dowels and give good pull strength
two larger eyelets to screw into the pilings on each side of the bow
enough 1/4- 3/8 line to reach from bow to wheel
enough of the same line to reach from the bow to the piling on each side and a couple of feet extra
concrete patching mix from your favorite hardware store
two 20 oz or 1 L plastic beverage bottle
two eyebolts about 4" long, nut is optional

Construction: Cut the tops off the water bottles. Mix up the concrete patch. Fill the bottles with the mix to make nice long rather heavy weights. Insert the eyebolts into the wet mix and let dry. 
The object is to get a nice long weight with an eyelet sticking up from the top.
Drill a hole into one end of each dowel and screw in the eyelet. The object is to have an eyelet projecting from one end of each dowel.
Take two lengths of the line, tie a bowline/your favorite knot to the eyelet. Measure the line back to the wheel so that you have plenty of slack to grab onto.
[This is where pics would help, and I'll get them in ASAP]

Screw the larger eyelets into the piling, a foot or two about the dock lines.
Tie one end of each of the other two lines to one of the eyelets sticking up out of the weights.
Run the line up through the eyelet and to the bow on each side. The object is to pull on the line and lift the weights, with the eyelet as a guide.
On the free end of the lines attached to the weights, tie a bowline just a little larger than the diameter of the dock line. The object is to allow the bowline loop to fairly easily slide 
along the dock line, but to grab the dock line when the pull comes on from an angle. We'll call this the "binding loop."
Finally (!), on the end of the lines from the weights tie a bowline big enough to slip through the holes in the bow plate fin and also have room for the dowels to fit through.
Make sure the weights are pulled up to just below the piling eyelets before you tie the first bowline.
Trim off any extra line from the lines attached to the weights. The objects is to have the weights fully lifted when the bowline on the far end of the line is at the bow plate.

I think that's it for construction.

To use: Put the dowels with the attached line up the bow and run the lines back to the wheel.
Pass the bowline loop at the end of the line attached to a weight through one of the holes in the vertical fin of the bow plate. 
Slide a dowel through the loop so that it keeps the loop from pulling back through.
Pull the bow of the boat as close to the windward piling as you desire. 
Pull the dock line through the bowline on the weight line until you've got basically a straight line from the dock line to the binding loop, then along the line from the binding loop
to the hole in the fin of the bow plate.
(This is where you might have to adjust the bowline grabbing the dock line so that it will hold under tension at an angle.)


The final setup should look like this [I'll get pics, I swear]: A line attached to a weight comes up through the eyelet on the piling and down to the bow plate, where its end loop is held in place by 
a dowel through the loop to prevent it from pulling back through.
The dock line on that side is pulled though the binding loop until the bow is as close to the piling as you want. The binding of the dock line in the binding loop should keep it from pulling back through when released.

Now comes the act of faith: cast off the bow lines from the cleats. The boat is now secured to the pilings by the dock lines passing through the binding loops.

Return to the wheel, take up the lines running from the dowels to the wheel, and cast off whatever last stern line is holding you down.

Give the dowel-lines a sharp jerk to pull them back through the loops at the end of the weight lines. The weights drop, pulling the bow lines to the piling and out of the way, and you are free to be on your way.

I'll dig out the photos and post them later this evening.


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## marcjsmith

Decided to refinish the veneer on one of cabin sole boards. Looks like I’ve created another project. I’ll be surprised if I spend a 100 bucks on varnish and brushes, time however, hours.

Step 1 strip varnish with a very light sanding / chemical strip
Step 2 was with oxalis acid solution
Step 3 sand again(lightly)
Step 4 varnish
Step 5 wait
Step 6 scuff sand
Step 7 repeat 4 5 6 until you are satisfied

I used 4 coats of helmsman clear satin urethane. Might be a smidge too glassy though

I also started putting new sound insulation in the engine bay but that’s not low budget


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## MarkofSeaLife

That looks superb!


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## Skipper Jer

Anyone price an outboard bracket to store the dinghy motor? Don't bother I can say they are so over priced. I had some HDPE laying around from a scraped boat. A trip to a big box store procured 4 stainless steel U bolts (design change once Neptune claimed his dues) and some SS bolts in the junk box I had gather the material required to fabricate the bracket. First I wanted to insure there was going to be room for the motor so with the hot glue gun and cardboard I made a stand in for the real outboard. Next project is a lifting harness and a canvass cover to protect the motor and HDPE bracket. $24 for the U bolts.


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## Skipper Jer




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## SanderO

Very cool. But motor interferes with use of that stbd aft cleat. Why not put it on the stern side of the pushpit?


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## Skipper Jer

SanderO said:


> Very cool. But motor interferes with use of that stbd aft cleat. Why not put it on the stern side of the pushpit?


Yes, it looks close but the cleat is accessible. The aft portion of the pushpit is all curvey.


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## ben2go

Skipper Jer said:


> View attachment 143794
> View attachment 143795
> View attachment 143796


Nice project. Are you licensed to operate a vessel with that much power? 😉


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