# Best knot for jib sheets



## kwaltersmi (Aug 14, 2006)

What's the best knot for attaching the jib sheets to the jib clew?

Can someone point me to a source that shows how to tie it?

Thanks!


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## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

The Bowline (pronounced bow-lynn) is the classic knot for this purpose. Superstrong yet easy to untie. If you don't already know it I would suggest that you practice it until you get it down so that it will be second nature when it comes time to make a sail change in dicey conditions. I used to keep some line on the back of my toilet for this purpose, much to the dismay of my better half.

Google Image Result for http://cache.eb.com/eb/image?id=63127&rendTypeId=4


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## nk235 (Apr 8, 2007)

Just watch Jaws over and over again...its the scene when they are on the Orca right before the Shark pops up and Martin is trying to tie that exact knot...

But on a serious note the bowline is the most common way and is useful in many more applications on a sailboat.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Try this site: Grog's Boating Knots Index


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

best knot is no knot; try a larks head


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## mccary (Feb 24, 2002)

poopdeckpappy said:


> best knot is no knot; try a larks head


If the Lark's Head is the same one I know I would worry that when the sheets are slack they might come loose. The lark's head I know uses the tension on over turned loop that has a line through it with a stopper know in the end. When slack the loop can work loose.


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

poopdeckpappy said:


> best knot is no knot; try a larks head


I have many lark's heads, a.k.a cow hitch used on jib sheets.

Cow hitch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I prefer bowlines. The lines get end-for-ended more often. It is also a stronger knot.

Jack


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## freddyray (Aug 11, 2008)

I tie more bowlines than any other knot. On my ski boat I use them to tie the ski ropes on and they never fail. they are also easy to untie.


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## AE28 (Jun 20, 2008)

CBinRI said:


> ...time to make a sail change in dicey conditions. I used to keep some line on the back of my toilet for this purpose, much to the dismay of my better half.
> 
> CB...
> You can make sail changes from your toilet!?!?
> ...


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## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

AE28 said:


> CBinRI said:
> 
> 
> > ...time to make a sail change in dicey conditions. I used to keep some line on the back of my toilet for this purpose, much to the dismay of my better half.
> ...


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## AdamLein (Nov 6, 2007)

I find the concerns about lark's heads interesting. Joe, there is basically no way a lark's head can come undone, even if the loop completely loosens up. The only way is for the free ends of both sheets to be passed through the loop.

As for the strength of the knot, not sure what you mean by that. Knots do weaken the line they're tied in; maybe that's what you're referring to. If so, I don't know how much a lark's head reduces the strength of the line, but bowlines are one of the worst knots for strength. They reduce the breaking load to about 60% of the untied line's breaking load.

Anybody have data on lark's heads?

Edit: I just realized a lark's head can fail if only one of the free ends passes through the loop... which I suppose could happen if you only ever apply load to one of the free ends, or if the first time the sheet is loaded up, the lark's head hasn't really been made snug yet. Hm!


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## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

In my experience it is unusual for anyone to use anything other than a bowline for jib sheets. But I could be wrong. And if I ever wanted to do a quck sail change with no knot, as has been proposed, wouldn't I have to pull 50' of line (my boat is 41') through the clew, or am I missing something?


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## TaylorC (May 15, 2008)

*Big boat alternatives*

I was just looking for an answer to this same question, I did not realize there was a current thread, I posted over at in this seamship thread

Considering the larks head when you have two seperate sheets, as I see it the problem is that the knot can lock for one way pull. But if you are putting a larks head in in the middle, you have uneven pull, and that worries me on a larger boat, the forces are so high, it seems like it might slip.

The bowline is tried and true, but the knots are hanging up in our tacks and with a small crew in a race, we can't stand that delay.

Anyway, since I already have two lines and I want to eliminate knots it looks like I need to splice an eye in the end. So far so good.

I also looked at the  Attaching Jibsheets article.

Then the options are:

0) Bowline (tried and true)
1) larks head (possibly hard to undo) 
2) Tylaska Spool Shackles
3) Tylaska J-Shackles
4) EquipLite Connectors (too expensive!)

Any thoughts on these? It seems like the spool shackles might be a good compromise. Has anyone used these for genoa sheets on a larger (40'+) boat?


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

mccary said:


> The lark's head I know uses the tension on over turned loop that has a line through it with a stopper know in the end. When slack the loop can work loose.


When used on the jib the loop is turn under, I have only used this on two boats, currently on a 37' Tayana, I've never had issues with the knot coming loose or slipping in wind up to 18 knots or hanging on inner stays or shrouds, and yes it can be tough to undo if neglected


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## meuritt (Aug 25, 2008)

I know conventional wisdom uses the bowline, an excellent knot, for jib sheets, and I do if I need to be able to untie the sheet and re-tie to the next jib. Otherwise, I prefer the buntline hitch. This knot is a bit less prone to snagging on the way past obstacles such as the stays, but has the fault of jamming under load, it will not shake out, but can be a problem to untie.

an example
Buntline Hitch


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## kwaltersmi (Aug 14, 2006)

I will probably go with the bowline since I know the knot and others have had success with it. However, this site attaching ropes to grommets suggests a double-fishermen's knot.


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

kwaltersmi said:


> I will probably go with the bowline since I know the knot and others have had success with it. However, this site attaching ropes to grommets suggests a double-fishermen's knot.


The first Jib sheet knot shown on your link is what I was referring to, You can work it so the it's centered instead of one side or the other and at the foot of the clew instead of the leech edge of the clew; but that doesn't really matter


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## kwaltersmi (Aug 14, 2006)

Right. That's the one I've used before with one long continuous jib sheet. But what if there are two separate jib sheets, one for starboard and one for port? Then I think the best (or most popular) knot would be the bowline for each sheet.


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

you're right, sometimes ( aah, who am I kidding, all times ) I don't think pass my own boat setup.


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## PalmettoSailor (Mar 7, 2006)

I had the same concern re: a larks head slipping when loaded, but since it was mentioned here previously I noticed that the Tartan 40 I crew on is rigged that way. We've never had a problem even though the owner is loath to reef the 150 roller furling genny even when we're defintely overcanvassed.

I use bowlines on my boat currently, but I will seriously consider going with a larks head when I need to replace my genny sheets since you need a single long sheet to use a larks head. From what I've seen I think the larks head works fine for boats with roller furling that don't change sails ofter (or at all), but is probably is not the way to go if you frequently change headsails.


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## kwaltersmi (Aug 14, 2006)

Actually, I use a lark's head on my current boat with hank-on headsails and it works fine, no problems changing sails. But I've got a pending deal on a bigger boat with roller furling for the headsail and two separate sheets, thus the question.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

One point about using any type of shackle on the clew of a headsail—it just gives the sail something hard to beat you to death with...


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## mccary (Feb 24, 2002)

AdamLein said:


> I find the concerns about lark's heads interesting. Joe, there is basically no way a lark's head can come undone, even if the loop completely loosens up.


The Lark's Head I know and use on Kites is this:
Making a Larks Head Knot

It works well with constant tension, but I still wonder what can happen during a tack through the wind when the line is slack and whipping about.


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## delan (May 2, 2009)

It depends on the jib setup, if you use a furling jib most of the time, a continuous jib sheet, port to Stbd with a larks head at the center will be best, almost no weight flapping around.
If you do a lot of sail changes bowlines would be more convenient.
Avoid shackles, they can really hurt someone.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

I've never known a racer (in any league) or a single sailing school to use or suggest anything besides bowlines for the jib/genny.

Anyone who wants to do it differently is welcome to, but not on my watch.

"but the knots are hanging up in our tacks" I think we've all had that happen. It means one or more of several things are wrong: Wrong size line (too heavy), wrong size loops (too large), or wrong timing on the tacks. Time it wrong, and the lines will always hang up. Change the timing and the line tension when the knots are flying past things--and they will hang instead of pass.

Working on the timing and line handling during the tack pretty much can always solve the hanging problem.


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## delan (May 2, 2009)

I should have pointed out, I haven't raced much, and neither have my wife or kids, I like the larks head because for the most part, I use the same 150 headsail on a furler, and it keeps the weight down at the clew. In the event something gets hung up on the foredeck, and the jib is flagging, there's less to get hit with.
respectfully, Joe.


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

delan said:


> I should have pointed out, I haven't raced much, and neither have my wife or kids, I like the larks head because for the most part, I use the same 150 headsail on a furler,


Same here, I don't race at all and I have a 130 on a furler


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

You miss the point. It doesn't matter if you race or not. Racers tack an awful lot, and missing any one tack is enough to knock you out of the race. The practices on a racing boat are often based on "must be 110% reliable" and that includes using bowlines on the headsails. Because they don't hang up, they don't slip off, and they can be easily released if they need to be.

Don't laugh too hard--all those things about bowlines for the headsail are true, once you get some practice and get them done right.

Oh, and bowlines hurt a whole lot less if they hit you in the face on a flogging sail, compared to all the wonderful buttons and toggles and snaps that can also be used to attach the sheets. They're simple and reliable, that's usually why something becomes a standard.


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## delan (May 2, 2009)

Please don't misunderstand, I'm not arguing about the validity of a bowline for a headsail, and I've been using them for many years, but this is simpler for my application, one continuous sheet attached like this


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

That's how I do it and have NEVER had an issue with it coming loose. If we blow a tack it's for some other reason...


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## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

delan said:


> Please don't misunderstand, I'm not arguing about the validity of a bowline for a headsail, and I've been using them for many years, but this is simpler for my application, one continuous sheet attached like this


I had been told and read that there is a risk of slippage with this arrangement but i suppose the proof is in the pudding.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

only way to untie the larks head is to run 20+ feet of sheet through the clew. 
Most lines will fail at the knot. If the larks head fails you have a flogging sail that will need to be doused, re-tied, and rehoisted. If one bowline fails (breaks at knot), just tack over, retie another sheet, and tack back. less down time assuming you're close hauled.


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## CharlieCobra (May 23, 2006)

My Jib sheet is 100' long and if the larks head fails, it's because the sheet itself failed. It's just a different way of doing things. If I do a headsail change, the sheets go with the sail. It's a matter of personal preference.


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## poopdeckpappy (Jul 25, 2006)

CharlieCobra said:


> if the larks head fails, it's because the sheet itself failed.


And if the sheet failed, the captain failed in his routine rigging inspections


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## pfatyol (Dec 16, 2003)

My sheet is only 80 feet long, (sail is 350 square feet, 135 RF) and I have been using the Larks head for the last 5 racing seasons. It takes a good deal of effort at the end of the year to unlock the knot from the clew. I never had it slip at all, I have seen bowlines become undone during a races, I would say at least one every couple of seasons.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

I've never seen a properly tied bowline untie itself, but seen plenty of "not quite bowlines" come open. To me a lark's head is just a half completed Prussik knot, which is a nice grabber but used intentionally because it is so easy to make the knot slip if you apply a little backpressure to it.

I guess that's what makes horseracing, "you pays your money, you takes your choices".


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## k1vsk (Jul 16, 2001)

Properly or otherwise, bowline knots are never used on a jib clew of a true race boat (I'm not referring to recreational racers). Far too difficult and time-consuming to remove and a fundamentally wrong application - bowlines are intended specifically for friction loading. They do, however, certainly work and are almost ubiquitous among recreational racers where only one or two jibs are typically used and the frequency for changes isn't critical.


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## AE28 (Jun 20, 2008)

k1
What is used on a true race boat?
Paul


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## k1vsk (Jul 16, 2001)

AE28 said:


> k1
> What is used on a true race boat?
> Paul


I didn't mean to imply there is one single preferred knot that I am aware of Paul. The only consistent form I've seen is not a bowline but anything easily removable including hardware used by many R IRC big boat crews.

For the beer can racer, it probably makes no difference.


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

Someone commented that a lark's head is hard to remove after the season. Is it also hard to remove after each sailing day? My head sails come off at the end of each day. I would like to try to one long sheet method, but not if its going to be difficult to until it.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

A marlin spike should be able to help release the larkshead knot. Using just your fingers after a good blow, it can be almost impossible.


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## SpcAlan1 (Aug 31, 2009)

So what is the consensus?
I have seen photos with only 1 jib sheet attached to the front sail ( I have a roller ).

But there are 2 ( port/starboard ). 
Currently I have 2 big knots that gets hung up everytime we tack. 
So should I have just 1 ( very long sheet ) to use the larkhead knot? 
Looks very clean, but that would require a huge continuous sheet for my Islander 30.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

SpcAlan1 said:


> So what is the consensus?
> I have seen photos with only 1 jib sheet attached to the front sail ( I have a roller ).
> 
> But there are 2 ( port/starboard ).
> ...


Why not use a single sheet with a whipped eye and then attach it to the sail's clew using a soft shackle. The soft shackle allows you to attach/detach the sail from the sheets relatively easily, yet won't risk severe head trauma should you get whacked upside the head by it. In an emergency, the soft shackle can always be CUT.



jarcher said:


> Someone commented that a lark's head is hard to remove after the season. Is it also hard to remove after each sailing day? My head sails come off at the end of each day. I would like to try to one long sheet method, but not if its going to be difficult to until it.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

"Currently I have 2 big knots that gets hung up everytime we tack. "
Often that is a matter of timing the tack properly. At some point, the sheets and sail will be slack and bounce easily around. Time it wrong, and you'll be strapping them across some hardware and they'll hang.
Of course, neat bwlines and not using excessively thick line also count.


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## malyea (Aug 12, 2009)

What's a good way to keep the bowlines (2; 1 per sheet) from snagging on the lifeline when I tack my Hunter 30? 

It happens every couple tacks to my 150 genny when the wind is light and so I then have to scoot forward and free the snag - not a great race tactic...at least not for winning.


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## overbored (Oct 8, 2010)

On My cat i have a short piece of line tied to the leach with a larkshead. the line is then tied to the sheet block with a bowline. this makes the double purchase jib sheet shorter. On the 33 the sheets are 5/8" and I use the tylaska ( old sparcraft ) press lock shackles spliced on. they never hang and are very light weight. A knot in a 5/8" line would be very large and would hang on the everything.


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## catamount (Sep 8, 2002)

For those of us using bowlines, one trick to helping prevent your bowlines from catching on the shrouds as you tack the sail is to make sure you tie them with the tail on the inside, as shown here (from wikipedia):










In other words, it matters which way the rabbit comes out of the hole and goes round the tree...


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

malyea said:


> What's a good way to keep the bowlines (2; 1 per sheet) from snagging on the lifeline when I tack my Hunter 30?
> 
> It happens every couple tacks to my 150 genny when the wind is light and so I then have to scoot forward and free the snag - not a great race tactic...at least not for winning.


Start your turn quick, slow it down when your in irons, and snap to a quick finish on the tack. Give your crew time to pull it around. Also, have the crew throw the old sheet off the winch completely.

Or splice them and use a soft shackle. I think I might go for splices and soft shackles on my boat for quicker sail changes.


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## Redan (Feb 23, 2011)

We use Dyneema monkey balls. small line with loop end 2 balls


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## sawingknots (Feb 24, 2005)

i once spent some time learning knots then promply forgot all of them except the bowline and the granny,the granny i use when tying up grannys


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## delan (May 2, 2009)

Larkshead has always been my preference, but I checked out some of the soft shackles at the boat show this weekend and the specs are impressive.

Then again, I've never once had a larkshead hang up or nail me too hard.


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## AdamLein (Nov 6, 2007)

Any references on how to do the whipped eye described?

Sounds like a lot of strain to put on a whipping. Is there no way to splice an eye in the middle of a double-braid line?


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## tdw (Oct 2, 2006)

sailingdog said:


> Why not use a single sheet with a whipped eye and then attach it to the sail's clew using a soft shackle. The soft shackle allows you to attach/detach the sail from the sheets relatively easily, yet won't risk severe head trauma should you get whacked upside the head by it. In an emergency, the soft shackle can always be CUT.


That's certainly my preferred option.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I would not trust a whipping for that. Way too much load.

Use a version of the brummel splice to put 2 lines into one. You'll need to strip the cover back and then splice one into the other like how the brummel is finished to "lock" it into one another. Then take one of the tails and bury that core into the other. 








Or you can strip and splice eyes into 3 parts and luggage tag them together.


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## genieskip (Jan 1, 2008)

I just ordered some dyneema line to make some soft shackles. If they work as advertised I'm probably going to change to eye splices connected to the clew by soft shackle(s). I was going to use one shackle but I like the point someone made earlier in this thread about how it is a good idea to have another line connected to the clew if something happens to the sheet that has the weight of the sail. Flip the boat and you can control the sail. Soft shackles and eye splices should keep the sail from hanging up on the shrouds, which is a real pain when you don't have a big racing crew aboard. 
l


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

A properly seized eye would not have a problem, since the real load is actually on the soft shackle.


zz4gta said:


> I would not trust a whipping for that. Way too much load.
> 
> Use a version of the brummel splice to put 2 lines into one. You'll need to strip the cover back and then splice one into the other like how the brummel is finished to "lock" it into one another. Then take one of the tails and bury that core into the other.
> 
> ...


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## AdamLein (Nov 6, 2007)

I think the issue, SD, is that all that load on the soft shackle has to get taken up by the sheet. If you used, say, a piece of duct tape to form your eye, presumably the tape would tear or the sheet would just pull through it. We are concerned that the same thing would happen to a whipping or seizing.

zz: Using the first method it sounds like the resulting eye would not have any cover on it, or am I missing something?

If I were to go the second route, I'd keep it simple and just use two separate sheets with spliced eyes, and a soft shackle through both. But I'm still on the "one continuous sheet" team, hence the need for a middle-of-the-line eye.


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## P35juniper (Feb 11, 2010)

What ever happened to a bowline on a bight? Yes you still have a bowline but only one and it is all one line, 
But I'm planning on going with whipping and siezing as my headsail is on a roller it stays on all the time, I will most likely move the whipping periodicly, 
As to getting the crew to flip the sheets and head up just right and resheet, I need an extra arm or two, as I'm the whole crew sometimes.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

A properly designed and made seized eye is pretty strong, and not going to break under the loads generally seen on a headsail sheet on most of the boats seen on this forum. I'd also point out that most seized eyes use lockstitches to prevent the two sides from moving relative to one another... and that is a significant difference between wrapping duct tape around a bight in a line and seizing an eye into the same line.

IIRC, seized eyes were often used in making up standing rigging for double shrouds and such in days long past.



AdamLein said:


> I think the issue, SD, is that all that load on the soft shackle has to get taken up by the sheet. If you used, say, a piece of duct tape to form your eye, presumably the tape would tear or the sheet would just pull through it. We are concerned that the same thing would happen to a whipping or seizing.
> 
> zz: Using the first method it sounds like the resulting eye would not have any cover on it, or am I missing something?
> 
> If I were to go the second route, I'd keep it simple and just use two separate sheets with spliced eyes, and a soft shackle through both. But I'm still on the "one continuous sheet" team, hence the need for a middle-of-the-line eye.


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## RXBOT (Sep 7, 2007)

If you want single line but easily detachable you could put a larks head around the soft shackle before the shackle is fastened to the clew.


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## Slayer (Jul 28, 2006)

CBinRI said:


> I used to keep some line on the back of my toilet for this purpose, much to the dismay of my better half.


Hahahaha,,,,,I practice my knots on the toilet too. Keep the lines on the tp dispenser.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

AdamLein said:


> zz: Using the first method it sounds like the resulting eye would not have any cover on it, or am I missing something?
> 
> If I were to go the second route, I'd keep it simple and just use two separate sheets with spliced eyes, and a soft shackle through both. But I'm still on the "one continuous sheet" team, hence the need for a middle-of-the-line eye.


Yes the first method would require you to strip the cover where you merger the 2 sheets together. You could probably call APS and get directions on how to do it from their site. Or just buy new sheets and have them do it. $$$

I did a search for a bridle spinnaker sheets, or Y sheets like they use on J80's but couldn't find instructions or good pictures. If you find some, let me know, as I'm interested too.


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## travlin-easy (Dec 24, 2010)

In the past I've used just about every knot there is for the jib sheets. The biggest problem I've encountered with all of them is on days with light air they tend to hang up on the shrouds. The Cow Hitch, which doesn't hang up, tends to slip. I've used it in the past and wouldn't recommend it.

I think I'm going to try something entirely unorthodox this year. Instead of knotting my sheets to the clew I'm going to try splicing them tightly to the clew. Why not! They stay in place all summer, which is the case with every roller furling system I've come across and the only time they're not is when the sails are removed for winterizing. I clean and dry the sails at home, which most of us do, and the sheets could remain in place when the sail(s) are folded and stored for winter. The sheets can use a good cleaning now and then as well so I'll scrub them along with the sails.

I figure that a tightly spliced jib sheet made of braided nylon will not catch on the shrouds in any wind condition, it would save a lot of wear and tear on both the shrouds and sheets, and make tacking a lot smoother on marginal weather days. Maybe I'm wrong--I'll let you know. 

Cheers,

Gary


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## ilikerust (Apr 19, 2010)

Just to be clear, are those advocating a bowline saying that if you've got one continuous sheet (as I do), then put a bowline in the middle of the sheet? Or are you saying it's better to have two separate sheets, with a bowline on each?

I acquired my boat only last August, and I took the headsail off for winter back at the end of November - the previous owner had his own creative knot on there - sort of a modified lark's head of sorts. 

I'm thinking I might put a bowline in the middle to attach the continuous sheet to the headsail. 

Thanks


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## AdamLein (Nov 6, 2007)

ilikerust said:


> I'm thinking I might put a bowline in the middle to attach the continuous sheet to the headsail.


I think a bowline is an asymmetrical knot and is meant to have a load applied only on one of the tails.

What was mentioned in this thread is a bowline on a bight. I'm not sure what the poster had in mind; the knot produces two loops and two tails. I suppose you hook both loops up to the clew with a soft shackle and run the two tails to your winches. If your goal is to get away from knots, thereby reducing hangups when tacking, this is probably not going to help you, as it's a fairly bulky knot.

I don't think I saw anybody on this thread strongly advocating a bowline.


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## ilikerust (Apr 19, 2010)

I have a book o' knots that shows how to tie a bowline in the middle of a line. Dunno about "strongly advocating," but there were several statements along the lines of "the bowline is the preferred knot for this" and questioning whether a lark's head would slip.

Just seeking clarity and edification is all.


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## GeorgeB (Dec 30, 2004)

You guys are going to remarkable lengths in order to not tie a proper bowline. The bowline is the perfect knot for genoa sheets. There, I said it. Boy scout bowlines hang up on shrouds, proper ones don’t. Separate genoa sheets have a purpose. Am I the only one that unties the lazy sheet on ultra light wind days? What about swapping out to your set of “dental floss”? How can you guys do a headsail peel with a single line? How about switching the fairleads from the inside to outside tracks when you are sailing a reaching leg? Are you guys leaving your sheets on the furler all season long? Aren’t you periodically cleaning the salt out of them? My sheets (spectra) cost way too much to abuse them in such a way. Tieing a proper bowline is simple, quick, and easy. You can even do it in the middle of the night, during a squal, on a pitching foredeck.


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## Boasun (Feb 10, 2007)

If you have a "D" ring on the clew of your head sail, you can use the Studding Sail bend. You can shake it forever and it won't come loose and let hold without slipping and easy to undo when you need to.


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## AdamLein (Nov 6, 2007)

My boat came with four genoas, all hank-on, each (except maybe the 150 which I never use) with a dedicated continuous sheet attached via lark's head. I have not put any real effort into getting them untied; they're all quite tight and I've never had one slip. One of them is have a nylon drifter, 155%, and the sheets are very light.

George, sounds like your boat gets used in ways mine doesn't, though being able to clean the sheets easily is nice; at the moment I just hose them down when I'm doing the rest of the boat. I think the PO raced but I don't know how much he liked his setup.

I would indeed like a single sheet or pair of sheets that can be easily moved from one clew to another and doesn't hang up on shrouds when I'm tacking singlehanded.

Bill: could you maybe paraphrase the book on tying a bowline in the middle of a rope? I can't quite picture it and would be interested to hear how it goes.


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## ronspiker (Jun 27, 2001)

I always use a bowline. The big difference in what I do versus what I normally see is that I rather than having the knot up close to the clew I have a big loop through the clew with the knot about 2-3 feet back. That way if the jib should get loose the knot will stay inboard and I can untie it.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

George, for the reasons you've stated, I'm thinking about cutting my single sheet into two, putting small splices on them and attaching with soft shackles. I do think this reduces weight and still allow for efficient headsail changes.


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

I renewed my genoa sheets 2 years ago and decided against a single line approach. I use a bowline, which occasionally snags the shrouds, but not often and it usually can be shaken free quite easily, perhaps because I have inboard shrouds.

Using a large loop in the bowline makes it easier to attach a pole when you are going wing-to-wing.


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## chamonix (Jun 25, 2010)

Have only sailed one year. Used two jib sheets with a bowline on each. had no problems with the knots hanging up, even in light winds. Will probably try figure eights on a bight next year just to see how it works and for no other reason than its the knot I trust most.


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## EJO (Jan 10, 2010)

So it all clear now , "X" use 2 sheets with two bowlines, "Y" use one sheet with Larkshead/Cowhitch, "Z" use whatever works with one sheet or two sheets, and an extra line for loosening snags (if they happen), all connected to a headsail clew with a kitchen-maid knot. If you're not familiar with the KM-knot ask a 3-4 year old to tie a knot.


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## SpcAlan1 (Aug 31, 2009)

I am a X ( that gets snagged ), wanting to be a Y ( but don't want to spend 100 bucks replacing the sheets.


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