# cleaning teak



## chuckg5 (Jun 22, 2006)

Just got thru, cleaning the deck an rails of a 42' vagabond. The teak was a nice weathered silver but I wanted to bring back the 'gold'. Using the 2 part cleaner an brightner, I've never seen so much dirt an brown water. Where does it come from? Is it actually dirt & oil from the 'enviroment'. I just don't think our florida air is that dirty. Just curious.
Also, does anyone have a favorite oil for teak. Gold color looks great, longivity is important. thanks!


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

We're been using Amazon's Golden Lite n' Easy Teak Oil for about four months and are pleased with the results. However, we have no experience with any other brand. As for long-lasting teak-oil, we're thinking oxymoron. Based on a phone call with Amazon, we think reapplying once a month or more depending on the season is appropriate.

We did not have good success with their Teak Luster. We did with their One-Step Cleaner and Prep.

http://www.mdramazon.com


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Chuck...The problem with teak oil of any kind is that it sucks up dirt. Looks wonderful for a little while then gets filthy again and you go through what you just did...which also removes some of the actual teak when you do a 2-part cleaning. I don't think teak oil is a viable long term solution which is why people use cetol and varnish etc. or just let it go natural and soak with seawater to prevent degradation.


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## chuckg5 (Jun 22, 2006)

no long lasting teak oil, then, darn.
the brown dirty water wash off, makes sense that's the dirt mixed with the previous oil. I like the silver look, the boat just looks more like new when the teak is cleaned an oiled, maybe I won't oil it next time an see how long that lasts. thank you for the replies!


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## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

I just bought a 30 year old boat with new teak decks. The people I have spoken to say to leave it alone except to clean it. Also do your best to keep it dry in the winter.


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## Omatako (Sep 14, 2003)

*Human teak oil?*

I had teak duckboards in my cockpit and experienced a lot of cracking of the bottoms of my feet after extended trips (I sail barefoot).

Then I noticed a dark patch becoming evident on the duckboards behind the wheel and started to monitor it. The teak was actually drawing body oil out of my feet. I stuck a piece of carpet over the wood and the problem with my cracked feet went away.

Is this coincidence? Has anyone else experienced this? I've made a mental note not to have teak decks again.


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## chuckg5 (Jun 22, 2006)

*teak*

Wow, that's something to watch out for. good reason for boat shoes.
I just cleaned an oiled our 42 vagabond, teak decking an the bottom of my shoes melted somewhat an left black shoe marks on the deck. switched to boat shoes an the same thing happened. strong stuff. another reason to love silver teak.


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## lauri (Oct 6, 2003)

A teak deck can be a very beautiful thing, but the real beauty of a teak deck is it's non slip characteristics. If you put anything on it, like oil, you are compromising this highly coveted feature. The best thing you can do for a teak deck is to rinse it down with clean salt water often (daily would not be too much) and avoid brushing with cleaners like the plague. The rails are an entirely different subject and can be treated the same or oiled or varnished. I am contemplating epoxying them and then varnishing over the epoxy. Not a small project, so I'm currently just moving in that direction , but I've heard the effect would be a lot longer lasting.


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## foxglove (Dec 27, 2002)

*Sorry that I sanded all of these years*

My 24 year old Pearson 323 has generous amounts of teak. Over the years, I cleaned the teak with standard cleaners (usually with oxalic acid) then oiled. Most years, I also sanded to flatten the grain.

Now, after all of these years, my bunges are falling out, my teak is getting thin, I'm running out of options other than allowing the teak to go gray (like me).

I don't like the look. I would prefer varnish with non-skid patches where I step. I'm afraid to proceed. If and when the varnish peels, I'll have to sand again.

By the way, two years ago, I tried a product called Teak Guard. They claim "After cleaning the teak wood once, *you don't reclean your teak, just reapply TeakGuard".*

I don't like to complain but almost the entire finish fell off over the first winter and I can't remove the rest. The manufacturer says to use high pressure spray at a low angle. Forget it.


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Foxglove... I'd suggest a couple of coats of Cetol followed by a coat of Cetol GLOSS to preserve what you have left while getting CLOSE to the look of varnish. The benefit of Cetol is that you won't have to sand when it begins to wear out. Just rough up the finish with a scotch-brite pad and apply a new coat of gloss...you can even do spot touch-ups. BUT...you have to keep up with things or you'll be back to sandpaper again!


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## lauri (Oct 6, 2003)

I used Teakguard too. It lasted less than 4 months, and was just not worth the effort. I have been using a product from Canada called Tuff Shield. It's hard to find though... I'm lucky the local chandelry carries it. It can almost look like varnish with enough coats, but it's soooooo much easier. It's one part, and I can put 3 to 5 coats on in a day, which means I can usually finish a project in a weekend. I have to touch it up every 6 to 12 months, but it's easy duty. Just a lite sanding (don't have to take it all the way down) and then put on a new coat or 2. It seems every system is just a compromise.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I'm looking into Cetol as an option too.
The last finish was Boiled lynseed oil (3 years back) with the inherent dirt absorbtion problem now becoming a serious headache, its been good for the wood, but actually starting to become slippery quite quickly if left for more then a week without a scrub.

 The Crystal ball shows big sanding on my horizon


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## foxglove (Dec 27, 2002)

*Thanks Camaraderie*

Yes, I think Cetol will be my next move. I like the gloss look so I'll do as you suggest.

Thanks again


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## pigslo (Nov 22, 2004)

The brown dirt you notice when using a two part cleaner is the wood that was disolved from the surface of the wood. That is how the two part cleaners work, with an acid and a neutralizer. Use sparingly.

pigslo


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## chuckg5 (Jun 22, 2006)

*teak cleaning*

thanks, Pigslo
ITs not all dirt then, but the wood itself, can't do that to many times.
Still looking for a sealer, this cerol sounds popular but mixed with varnish?
still not sure.


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

chuckg5...no...cetol comes in 3 flavors...regular, light and gloss. No varnish involved. Use two coats of regular on bare wood followed by a coat or two of gloss...then just touch up with gloss as needed over time after a light rough up with a scotch brite pad. Using any varnish in combination with Cetol defeats the whole purpose.


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## pigslo (Nov 22, 2004)

I did mine with Bristol 2 part and am not happy with it. It seems to lift at the seams. I am not sure if it was the product or me and I am giving the product the benefit of the doubt. Another two part called Honey Teak was found better by Practical Sailor but I don't put much stock in their unscientific (in my opinion) approach. They lost me last issue when they said 5200 did not have very good adhesive properties. I use 5200 for almost everything and am happy with it. Anyway I will probably do touch up with the left over Britol and be done with it. There are alot of Cetol supporters but I can't abide by the orange color or latex paint look, just me.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*NEVER* use a 2 part cleaner on teak. Your are removing the pulp from the wood. What you have left is like a skellaton and then you have sand it smooth. Pretty soon you have no bungs left ( very thin teak).
What I have done over the years on a couple of boats ywith very good results, is, instead of sanding the old finish off - remove it with a razor blade or a piece of glass (thats how the experts remove varish). A little technque is need to avoid scratches. A little more work but well worth not removing too much teak. Once the old finish is off you can then sand with 100 then 220 . This way you are not removing alot of teak. Vacumm and tack rag as usual. *Then, and here's the key to a long lasting finish. *After you sand, the oil from within the teak will come back to the surface. So... wash the teak with acetone and as soon as it dries - a minute or less - apply your finish. This way the finish will stick to the wood.
Two coats of Cetol light and 2 - 3 coats of gloss. You will be very pleased
alan
UNABATED


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## chuckg5 (Jun 22, 2006)

damn good info, many thanks
haven't read much like this in any sail mags
bought a quart of cetol today at the local boat store...32 bucks - semi gloss
will use it on the stern name plate first
I'll need a gallon for the deck, if it lasts, it will be worth it.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Hey Pigslo... like the new avatar. 

If I had a teak deck, and I don't mainly because I prefer to sail than varnish, I'd let it go natural.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Good points have been made. If you wet and scrub the teak you will definately raise the grain. If you sand, you will probably remove more wood than is necessary. If you are using a film forming finish, such as varnish or cetol, you will need to fill the grain either with a sanding sealer or several coats of your finish before you get good protection.

My dislike for film finishes stems from a lack of durability when stressed, whether by the elements or when checked physically. If moisture gets under the finish the adhesive properties are comprimised and only the cohesive properties of the finish itself are left for protection. Eventually this leads to stripping the finish, which to me is the least fun of any type maintenance I do. 

I have found that the key for me is using oil and bronze wool.

Initially, when I strip or scrape finished teak, or clean grey teak, raising of the grain is certain to happen. This is not a real big deal though. Before I do anything I let the wood dry thoroughly (24 hours). Then, instead of sanding, I use a medium bronze wool to knock down the grain. After that, I wipe down the teak with mineral spirits or the sort. Then I cut some teak oil 50/50 with the same solvent and wipe it on. After around 15 minutes I wipe up the excess. I may do this two or three times on the first day depending on the weather. You will probably see some fuzzy areas on your teak, that is okay to me, leave it for now. After a day or two, I return and size those fibers with a fine bronze wool. I wipe it down with solvent and then wipe on more oil cut with about 1/3 solvent. I wait and wipe off the excess. The next day, I do it again. I never use the oil uncut.

Next comes everyone's question. How long does it last?

In this department you will probably need to change your expectations.

I maintain the teak by wiping it down with solvent, rubbing it with fine bronze wool, and wiping on a coat or two of oil cut with solvent. I may have to do this once a month or so, depending on conditions. This keeps the teak "clean" if you will and keeps it sealed properly to maintain its golden look. It is not nearly as much work as it may sound and the oil dries so fast you can sit on it within minutes.

If you let it go it will turn black eventually, maybe even quickly, however, I find recovering from this situation easier to deal with than falling behind with other finishes.

Oiling wood is not difficult. You will know how much to do as you go.

As for oil, I have no real favorite. Honestly, at this level, they are all about the same and you are using it outdoors, which is hard on any finish, so don't waste money buying the high dollar stuff.

Does anyone else do this, or have tips for me?


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## TejasSailer (Mar 21, 2004)

Justlucky,

Early in this thread I posted that we're been using Amazon's Golden Lite n' Easy Teak Oil for about four months with good results, and based on a phone call with Amazon, reapplying once a month or more depending on the season was appropriate, which is consistent with you recommendation.

Amazon also recommends initially applying the teak oil cut with thier prep product. After that, Amazon recommends appling undiluted oil, but we've also started diluting.

We have a few spots of mildew, and we're guessing that we missed applying the one-step cleaner. We tried wiping down with the prep, and that seemed to have helped some. Even with a bit of mildew, our teak still looks better than any other boat in the marina.

The amount of teak is limited - only seats and toe rails - so some of the other considerations mentioned in this hread seem not to apply. Anyway, we're pleased to know someone is having long term success.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*The real secret*

Cetol can be purchased from high end paint stores. It was made for outside decks long before the Marine stuff was sold. And guess what.... it's a lot cheaper, do tell.
What I use is the Cetal Dek. It doesnt have the same UV protection but... it also does not have the orange tint that turns so many people off to Cetol. I put on 2 coats and let it dry for a month or two. Sand real lightly with 320, vacuum, tack rag it .Then I put the Marine gloss because that has the real UV protection.
But I'd rather be sailing which is why it takes so long to do the teak....
alan


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

I would like to know how long you have you been using Cetol Dek on your boat's teak in combination with Cetol Gloss, and whether it's held up for a number of seasons. 

DEK is not marketed for marine use since it penetrates the wood, but eventually loses it's UV protection and needs to be reapplied every 6-12 months - depending upon environmental conditions. The surface finish is dull and flat, great for home deck components, but IMO, inappropriate for boats. It seems you decided to apply Cetol Gloss for this reason. 

However, I could be proven wrong and I hope for your sake it's not true. But it is my understanding that once Cetol Gloss is applied over DEK, additional coats of DEK cannot be reapplied without first stripping off the Gloss. Eventually the wrath of nature's elements will have a disappointing effect on your boat's teak, without adequate UV protection - which Cetol Gloss cannot provide.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I am near the end of my 2nd season with the application I put on as described. Granted - I am in the Great Lakes, so the boat is covered from Novemeber to April.
Cetol Marine Glass does have UV protection
(see: http://www.yachtpaint.com/Images/15_21129.pdf).
I believe that if I maintain the gloss layer, the layer underneath will not degrade. I am trying to avoid sanding the teak, as the boat is a 1981 Pearson with a lot of teak that I dont want to have to replace because it's too thin.
So far so good.
alan


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## cardiacpaul (Jun 20, 2006)

*it all depends on the level of work you want to do...*

this is 30 year old teak.

50cent scouring powder a stiff nylon brush, some water and 15 minutes. wait a day, then teak oil. thats it.


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## bsfree (Oct 25, 2001)

For what it's worth, I just removed all the old varnish from my Challenger 32, and, because of previous experience with different coatings, have decided to go au natural. A solution of 2 thirds liquid laudry detergent and 1 third bleach is an effective cleaner, the teak looks great and doing this around 3 times a year seems to me the easiest way to maintain teak. Also, the washing with salt water is great to maintain it after getting all the dirt out.


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

*Teak Decks - traction AND good looks.*

I have a "Teakey" with extensive teak decks. My decks are slip-proof and look like freshly sanded teak.
Here's the formula that an acquaintance gave me and Ive found to be exceptional: Sand the decks with a moderately coarse grit, replace thin bungs, etc; Immediately seal the raw wood with a mixture of: 1/3 Olympic deck stain (carmel), 1/3 Semco 'natural', 1/3 "teak wonder". Apply several coats.

My decks for the past few years look NEW, have the same non-slip characteristic as weatherbeaten grey teak. All I do now is use a mop and some diswashing detergent to clean, and simply renew with a single coat every two years.

Full description can be downloaded from the Tayana Owners website: http://www.tognews.com/projects.php .... then go to "teak test" sub-file of the ftp site and download. 
The mega yachts simply used to use a sealing compound similar to 'scotchgard' and UV blocker as found in suntan lotions. (Too bad that Scotchguard -in its original formulation - was withdrawn from the marketplace due to 'environmental reasons').

BTW. Since I have a teakey and HATE the god-awful look of Cetol, I use a 'modern' two part + two part acrylic/urethane coating system that looks like varnish, but is long lasting (about 6 years) .... go to "anchor riding sail" portion of the website to see. The brightwork coating is "honey teak" from signaturefinish.com Honey Teak is expensive but since its so long lasting is probably the cheapest of all ..... and because I dont have to recoat adnauseum, I can go sailing more oftern than 'varnish'. To me "cetol" is a very "bad joke" for teak application - why have beautiful teak and then make it look like crap with a thinned out orange paint ????
Anyone who slathers cetol on a teak deck .... has no idea of how dangerous a slippery deck is.

hope this helps.


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## foxglove (Dec 27, 2002)

RichH, your teak looks great. I seem to recall that Honey Teak gets good marks form Practical Sailor.

Max


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## chuckg5 (Jun 22, 2006)

Keep this post goin
I know I'm leaning something.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Nice info...Thanks

I understand that Cetol can soften the polysulfide caulking used in some teak seams....careful!

Cleaning our teak decking we just used a boatwash and scrub brush. It was black and upon inspection and you could see the wood fibers. Results were excellent though, brought the deck from old grey to new gold...at least temporarily...no problem with the grey....the decks just needed a good cleaning after being stored for two years. I think actual wood loss was minimal.

Now without salt water to wash the decks daily, how do you sailors in fresh water take care of your decks?

Jim


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## foxglove (Dec 27, 2002)

*Teak Guard*

Since this is the thread that won't die, I'll offer one bit of experience. Don't use Teak Guard. I used it three years ago and it started peeling the same winter. It's taken me these past three years to strip it off and prepare for a new treatment.

My teak is so thin from 25 years of sanding that the next treatment has to have a long life or I'll have no teak left.


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## Wendy (Feb 1, 2004)

I've been reworking the teak trim on my boat- it was a very weathered gray. I have used Interlux Teak Restorer as a cleaner and that stuff is awesome- brought the natural wood color back quickly. I am using Cetol's new Natural Teak and it looks very good- not the orange color that is usually associated with Cetol but rather a honey sort of color. I'll put up some pics later this evening.

Wendy


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## olegunny (May 25, 2007)

Leave teak alone, wash with a salt water to kill fungus. Anything else you put on teak is harmful - varnish looks wonderful in teak but does nothing for the wood.


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Wendy...top off the natural teak with a couple of coats of Cetol gloss and you will really be amazed...then you just touch up with a scotch brite and more gloss over time so you never deepen the nice color of those initial coats of natural.


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

olegunny said:


> Leave teak alone, wash with a salt water to kill fungus. Anything else you put on teak is harmful - varnish looks wonderful in teak but does nothing for the wood.


 I think you may have a couple misnomers there olegunny. Never heard the fungus thing - but, salt water is used to wash teak decks because of sea water's unique ability to stay wet - causing the planks to expand. Dry teak planking will shrink across it's grain and if allowed to dry out too much - the caulking material may stretch to the point of separating from the wood.

Varnishes and other protective coatings, are not only used for beauty, but also to preserve teak's soft grain sections - which eventually weather's down, raising the hard grain sections. Subsequent sandings to smooth out the surface will in time, diminish the wood's thickness.

There is also some confusion regarding the use of Cetol on decks. Sikkins DEK (which has been discontinued) is very different from Cetol Marine, Light and Natural coatings - which were formulated for exterior teak brightwork, but NOT teak decks.

Never use any Cetol Marine finish on decks. These coatings are soft and will wear very quickly. The chemicals may also react with polysulphide caulking - breaking it's wood bond.


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## Wendy (Feb 1, 2004)

camaraderie said:


> Wendy...top off the natural teak with a couple of coats of Cetol gloss and you will really be amazed...then you just touch up with a scotch brite and more gloss over time so you never deepen the nice color of those initial coats of natural.


Thanks Cam- I will try this! I finally got some pics up of the teak process for those who are interested.

Wendy


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## Giulietta (Nov 14, 2006)

Teak clean by...salt water......










Picture taken in February almost 1 year after being in the sea


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Hi Wendy et. al. -

I'm the new owner of an *old* Pearson Vanguard and am dealing with many of the same issues as are discussed here, but am still so new to everything that I _hope_ you'll all forgive me for asking what are probably repetitive, asinine questions! 

My issue is that my Vanguard has 3 different types of wood - a Sitka Spruce boom, mostly teak trim on deck and for the toe rail, and mahogany for the rub rail. I've had to scarf in two new pieces of mahogany, but most of the teak has held up fairly well considering she's 43 yrs. old. I opted to sand off the old varnishes/Cetol because some areas under the hardware were standing way proud, but I'm quite pleased with the amount of wood left and the robustness of the wood.

Three problems, though. First, on the boom, I've used the Wisk/bleach combo, tried X14 cleaner and straight bleach to get the mildew and the mildew stains out - when the boom gets wet, you can still see shadows although the mildew smell is gone. Second, on the teak, particularly on the toe rail, there are some areas where water pooled and I have blackened mildew spots 'though the wood is sound. Third, ditto on the mahogany where the metal rub rail guard was, and in addition, now I have two new bright pieces that stand out like a sore thumb. I should add that this boat was in baaaad shape when I bought her - I'm a sucker for the underdog!

So question - I'm planning to use the same as Wendy - Natural Teak Cetol and the high gloss finish - but what is the best cleaning/bleaching product to use with all 4 wood types, and after cleaning do I oil any of the wood to bring back some luster? I'm not sure what products will cause others to fail (like a cleaner or oil under Cetol), so any info anyone could provide would be most appreciated.

Oh, and Wendy, where do I go to see your photos? *Dying* to get a good look at a finished Cetol product!

Cheers,
Kimberly
Time Well Wasted


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Tim,

Join the Vanguard yahoo group and you will find a ton of information and pictures. After you join the group look at the photos of #244 Seawolf. I have a picture posted of a teak mast step cover finished with Cetol Natural teak infront of my coaming boards finished with Epiphanes varnish. 

If you're brave and you only do it once every 20 years or so you can try a pressure washer. The A+B cleaners work well but are hard on the teak as well. You picks your poision and you takes your chances...


See you on the list.

Mike
Pearson Vanguard #244 Seawolf
Annapolis, MD


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

MIKE!!!! 

Dood - I've been watching your posts on the Vanguard site - I'm the new boat owner of the 'NC Boat' with the horrid photos to boot! I LOVE what you've done with the Natural Teak - I'm looking forward to seeing what mine will turn out like. I had to replace my coaming boards - they were completely split down the middle - but I think I'll be happy with the replacements although they're slightly different than the originals.

So my teak is veeeeery aged and grey - I don't think pressure washing is the way to go on top of sanding. And one of my marina buds tried to talk me in to Epiphanes, but I'm a seriously low maintenance person, so I think Cetol is more my style, plus I LOVE the colour you got out of the mast step cover.

Couple of off topic questions for you - you obviously had to rebuild your mast step (as we're all going to have to do sooner or later) - do you have a recommendation of a company? Mine is flaking quite badly - I think next year I'll have the mast pulled and deal with the rigging. This year is just to get her sound and get the motor running. Second, do you have a pattern for your mast step cover? Love the idea and I'm thinking about converting my hood to wood, so it would be a nice tie-in. Last, where, oh where did you find your gorgeous emblems? I could definitely sport a case of beer in exchange for your info!

Thanks so much for the response - looking forward to ongoing info and inspiration! I know I'll get there one day!!!

Cheers,
Kimberly


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## labatt (Jul 31, 2006)

Qman15 said:


> Now without salt water to wash the decks daily, how do you sailors in fresh water take care of your decks?


I'm actually curious to hear the answer to this since I'm now in freshwater... I'm concerned about the teak drying out, and I'm also concerned about fungus growth. Should I dissolve sea salt in buckets of water once a month and scrub? Thoughts?


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## cardiacpaul (Jun 20, 2006)

I used to be a teak oil guy, scrub, dry, wipe on, throw rag away. 
Then the Cuban saw a boat with varnished brightwork, soooooo, here are the before & after pics. 
half teak oil...


























yes it looks good, sometimes I hate that woman.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

You're just mad because she was right, and her being right involves more work for you...


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

My Cetol looks better!! I think you need to do it over. (LOL)


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Maintenance of Teak and Other Hardwoods in Semi-Tropical Climates

Teak Maintenance Tips

Sealing Teak Wood


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I have been very happy with Cetol. Once clean and bright, three coats of Cetol does it. Then once a year, one coat over that should do you. it gives the "look" of teak oil, a nice warm satin finish, but goes on easy. Good Luck! I would never finish the teak deck though, for all of the reasons stated above.


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## cardiacpaul (Jun 20, 2006)

sailingdog said:


> You're just mad because she was right, and her being right involves more work for you...


its not her being "miss right" that bothers me....

its that her first name is "always"


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

cardiacpaul said:


> its not her being "miss right" that bothers me....
> 
> its that her first name is "always"


I got used to that... it happens alot when you marry a woman smarter than you...


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I know that I will get slammed for this post, but my solution for cleaning up my grey teak, whch I had previously sanded to remove the old finish, but had let go for 2 years due to the war and other minor distractions: My 1500 psi pressure washer. No solvent at all, just the pressurized water. Yes, it raised the grain, but I followed up with a very light sanding to knock it down. I have 2 coats of Cetol light on it. Will the Cetol light provide the required UV protection, or do I have to use the gloss for the final finish? I prefer the satin look, but will go with the gloss if it provides better protection.

Freeman


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

I've got three coats of Cetol Light on my exterior teak (decks stay natural of course). This season after the _final_ maintenance coat of Light, I applied two coats of Cetol Marine Clear gloss finish. Supposably, this dries to a harder finish than the tinted Marine finishes. All that is now necessary is to apply just one coat of clear - each year.

I was reluctant at first, since I'm a satin finish kind of guy, but really like the final effect - similar in appearance to those VERY high maintenance varnish jobs you find on boats with a full-time varnishing crew.


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## labatt (Jul 31, 2006)

I had heard that pressure washers do more than just raising the grain - they can actually strip off a layer of wood?


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

Pressure washing teak is much easier and cheaper than stripping - but labatt's correct. This is the quickest way to reduce the thickness of your teak. The hard grain doesn't "raise" as Bardo mentioned, but the soft wood between the hard grain, gets blasted away. By sanding down the resulting hard grain, you've just dramatically reduced the teak's life. 

Fortunately Bardo, you've protected it from further wear by coating with Cetol. If a boat owner pressurewashes his grey teak on a regular basis, it will dissolve away to thin strips in just a few years time.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

See, thats why I come here. Maybe I can prevent myself from doing any devastating harm to me or my boat if I just listen up a bit more. Unfortunately I tend to charge ahead (my Navy background) and hope for the best. I think I'll go with the gloss Cetol as you suggest. Thanks Trueblue!!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Agreed, 

The pressure washer should not be used for regular cleaning. In my case it was the first time in 40 years the teak was ever really cleaned. Once every 20 or so years should be fine as long as you use a broad tip. 

Mike


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## lancelot9898 (Dec 30, 2008)

*Cetol gloss*



camaraderie said:


> Wendy...top off the natural teak with a couple of coats of Cetol gloss and you will really be amazed...then you just touch up with a scotch brite and more gloss over time so you never deepen the nice color of those initial coats of natural.


Last year after stripping the old cetol off I put down 3 coats of cetol natural without the gloss and this coming spring will put a maintenance coat on. I debated about using the gloss when done last year since my prior experience with cetrol has been good with the exception of each year turning darker and darker. After ten years it had a awful brown color and that is why I started over. My neighbor at the marina has been using the cetol gloss for the past 3 of more years and his teak looked just as bad as mine so that is the reason for not going to the gloss. The natural looks good now and I'm wondering as each year passes and I put on more maintenance coats that I'll see the same awful build up of color with time??? In the past I've used a scotch pad prior to putting on the maintenace coat and I'm thinking of actually hitting it with a light sanding instead to prevent a buildup. The natural looks great now and I want to keep it that way.


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## US27inKS (Feb 6, 2005)

Hitting it with a light sanding before applying a new coat sounds like a good plan to prevent buildup. Even gloss will look bad if you let enough build up.

BTW, cam made these comments on this thread a year and a half ago. Whether an old thread should be floated or not has been the subject of debate around here lately. Most of the time it's better to start your own thread, but my hat's off to you for searching for the answer before doing so.


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## boatfan77 (Nov 15, 2013)

When a teak deck is very dirty, 
A Glaze Deck Caring Two Process System is a perfect, bringing some very dirty teak back to a nice clean golden colour,here something

Products | Aglaze
Guide to Boat Cleaning and care products


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## Delta-T (Oct 8, 2013)

I have been working my teak for 38 years. I have tried many things and don't want the high maintenance of varnishing. And is not an option for decks. My cabin floor is varnished and is like standing on angled ice when wet.

The two part cleaner you mentioned will eat away on the soft parts of the grain leaving an un-smooth surface after a few years of using it. And if you read the instructions this product will eat away hardware bedding and caulking...even 5200! And as suggested Butyl bedding. As would any harsh cleaners.

The black that comes with the oiling of the teak is mold. 

I do a light sanding to bring the teat back then two coats of SEMCO teak sealer (oil). Let dry a few weeks between coats. Than I reapply in the middle of the summer to keep fresh. The toe rail, combing and other small items only takes me 2 hrs to do. Real easy to do. As apposed to the issues associated with varnish, having the right temperature (not to hot or too clod) and clean environment (other people sanding or washing in close proximity), rain, night condensation, lifting of the varnish if water gets under, and it looks like hell if you try to touch it up.

As others have said, nothing should be used to seal decks.

Hope this helps.

To the naysayers...IMO! Keep in mind the info you get here on SN is worth just what pay for.


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