# 1981 C&C 30 MK1 advice needed



## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

I am looking at a 1981 C&C 30 MK1, I spent the weekend looking her over. She has spent the last 4 years on a mooring and needs a bottom job. I pumped out the bilge the boards in the sole are all delamanated and will need replaced. The deck has had a tap test to whitch no hollow spots were detected. All the running rigging is shot. the bimini is shot. Hovever the Yanmar Diesel fired right up and perred lik a kitten. Any pros and cons on this vessel?
I have added a few photos and can show mor if needed.
MVI_2715.mp4 video by LTGoshen - Photobucket 








Thanks for your input.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

I sail on a 35 and it would be pretty unlikely there were not wet core issues in various places 

They may not be real bad but it is almost 100% that there are some issues on any cored boat unless it had really good care


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## jameswilson29 (Aug 15, 2009)

The C&C 30 I saw had a warped wooden mast step. The mast had dropped down a few inches and the shrouds and stays were loose. The floorboards on that boat were also soft. If I recall correctly, that was a design problem that was later rectified in later versions of the boat.

Otherwise, seemed like a solid design.


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## Liquorice (Nov 28, 2007)

Check out this site:
C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center
This is where all C&C owners hang out.
In particular, there is an e-mail forum 1/2 way down the page.
There are a lot (400+) C&C owners that are members of the list.
Ask your question there, there will be a lot of 30 owners who can give you a list of the things to look for and any issues with this boat.


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

tommays said:


> I sail on a 35 and it would be pretty unlikely there were not wet core issues in various places
> 
> They may not be real bad but it is almost 100% that there are some issues on any cored boat unless it had really good care


You may be on to somthing on deck. The Hull is glass only according to "http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review30mk1.htm" I tapped arount the deck lightly with a trim hammer to see if I could find a thud sound around all stanchions blocks or anything that was put into the dack. It sounded good. Not soft anywhere by hopping up and down on it?


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## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

Do you mean is it a good buy? Not enough information.

You need an out-of-the-water survey done, to see the extent of possible issues with the bottom. 

You also don't say whether you are a DIY person or would get a boatyard to do the work. That makes a big difference to the viability of the project.

Did you put it forward and reverse gears? (transmission $$$)

Asking price?

So I looked on Yachtworld and nice C&C 30s of that age are selling for about 20-25K. So I'd suggest getting a thorough survey done, and then making an honest assessment of the costs of bringing it up to sailable condition, then double your assessment!

But to start with :

Sails $3K
Bottom job if you have blisters : $3-4K
Paint deck : $1K
Running rigging $1K?
Thorough engine service : $300
Lots of other little things : $2K
Replace cabin sole : ?? $$$

So the boat needs to be under $10K to be viable.

I have heard nothing but good things about the sailing performance of the C&Cs.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

It is interesting reading the fact sheet that they made the boat so long with doing a Mark I , II and III like a lot of there other size boats and they stuck with the solid hull and cored deck 

Looking around they are between 20k and 40k so there has to be a BIG range of condition


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## boatpoker (Jul 21, 2008)

I tend to agree with Tommays, it is unlikely that you have dry solid decks so unless you have some expertise in this area you may want to find a buddy who does.

I have access to soldboats.com and their numbers show that anything over $20k would have to be something pretty special. Remember the prices you see on yachtworld are asking prices and often bear little resemblance to what they actually sell for.


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

*Post 8*

Sorry I did not know that


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

*Soon I will add some photos.*

I have some questions on thru hulls on this vessel


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

Thanks for all your great advice. Its nice to see some other people with the same vessel
with some same troubles.


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## Ocarina II (Nov 21, 2011)

I have a couple buddies with C&C 30's and I can tell you they are good boats. Racing with one of them we usually placed first overall. However keep in mind that the are frequently raced very hard and sometimes that can lead to serious problems. There is something called a C&C smile which is an athwartship crack running upwards from the leading edge of the keel either side of the hull caused by hard groundings with a high-aspect fin keel. It could be hidden under paint so look carefully. It is repairable,but should be considered in negotiations. Also, bulkheads in another friends 30 were completely detached. The tabbing had failed where it touches the hull. The surveyor missed it and it was a complicated job requiring the disassembly of much furniture.


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

Ocarina II said:


> I have a couple buddies with C&C 30's and I can tell you they are good boats. Racing with one of them we usually placed first overall.... There is something called a C&C smile which is an athwartship crack running upwards from the leading edge of the keel either side of the hull caused by hard groundings with a high-aspect fin keel. ...


The C&C smile is an entirely cosmetic condition, something of a family joke amongst owners.
The C&C 30 Mark I does not have a high aspect fin keel. The keel joint on that boat is close to indestructible.


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## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

I owned one for 11 yrs. Feel free to PM me.

The deck may in fact be dry. I had a complete survey done when I purchased the boat and the decks where dry. My boat was a '72 and I had the survey done in 2000.

Everything is bedded with butyl tape. If you do find a leak try gently tightening the deck hardware fasteners. If you do re-bed anything use butyl tape. Search these forums for member named mainsail, he sells the real stuff. I did my chain plates with something I got from a hardware store and it worked...for a while. I just sold the boat or I would be re-bedding chainplates this spring.

Check the hull number; 651 or lower, check the wood mast step for rot in the bilge, but, it's a fairly easy fix. If it's 652 or higher then the mast step is aluminum and you wont' have to worry.

Yes, the C&C smile is cosmetic. However, torque the keep bolts just to be sure. CNCPhotoalbum.com has the torque specs.

Overall the boat is built very well and is an absolute blast to sail.


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## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

ltgoshen said:


> I am looking at a 1981 C&C 30 MK1, I spent the weekend looking her over. She has spent the last 4 years on a mooring and needs a bottom job. I pumped out the bilge the boards in the sole are all delamanated and will need replaced. The deck has had a tap test to whitch no hollow spots were detected. All the running rigging is shot. the bimini is shot. Hovever the Yanmar Diesel fired right up and perred lik a kitten. Any pros and cons on this vessel?
> I have added a few photos and can show mor if needed.
> MVI_2715.mp4 video by LTGoshen - Photobucket
> 
> ...


I noticed in the photo there are winches at the mast and aft by the companion way. If you end up single handing often, and run all your lines aft, you might want to remove the hardware at the mast. It's a magnet for fouling jib sheets during a tack in a breeze.


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

I'm surprised this boat got this old without an owner installing inboard genoa tracks - a pretty good sign the boat was never raced, or at least, never raced seriously.


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

*Hin zcc30675m81e*

Thats my other question what can this number tell me abought this boat??



RobGallagher said:


> I owned one for 11 yrs. Feel free to PM me.
> Thats my other question what can this number tell me abought this boat??
> 
> The deck may in fact be dry. I had a complete survey done when I purchased the boat and the decks where dry. My boat was a '72 and I had the survey done in 2000.
> ...


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

ltgoshen said:


> Thats my other question what can this number tell me abought this boat??


The boom is one foot higher than early years (raised in '78 to reduce head aches).


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

*Sailingfool Thanks I was told differant.*



sailingfool said:


> I'm surprised this boat got this old without an owner installing inboard genoa tracks - a pretty good sign the boat was never raced, or at least, never raced seriously.


I was told that the man who owned this boat raced quite a bit. However, He would have been at the end of his sailing adventures around 1996 / 1997? I do have some photos of the sails if you would care to see them.


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

*Thanks Rob.*



RobGallagher said:


> I noticed in the photo there are winches at the mast and aft by the companion way. If you end up single handing often, and run all your lines aft, you might want to remove the hardware at the mast. It's a magnet for fouling jib sheets during a tack in a breeze.


It looks to me the solar vents are in the way of the winches on both sides not to mention that the diamiter is to large for the placement?


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## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

No and no. 

I had the same set up on an identical deck. Works well.


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

*IM not sent*

I tried to send you a IM but I have to have 15 or more post to send a IM I will follow up soon


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

ltgoshen said:


> I was told that the man who owned this boat raced quite a bit. However, He would have been at the end of his sailing adventures around 1996 / 1997? I do have some photos of the sails if you would care to see them.


Maybe raced in a light air region? The short track next to the cockpit might trim a 155%, hard to see just where it is. However a smaller sail, such as a 120% or less, trimmed to the toerail, will point some 10 degrees less than with a track inside the shrouds, and go no faster (and that is personal experience with the boat). From a race perspective, you may as well stay at home.

FWIW, I found this boat to be extremely competitive in PHRF, sailing to or above its rating in all conditions. When the breeze got over 18 or so, the boat really hustled, it was not uncommon to beat the bigger C&C 33s or 34s, boat for boat, even though they started 10 minutes earlier... definitely


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

*I just want a nice weekend pleasure sailer*

I may want to race later, but i'm aproching 50 and I live on the Atlantic between Savannah and Charleston. I just want a good weekend sailer. And maybe take south a few trips south no so much the racing. I hope I'm able to single hand her alright thow. My wife may not always want to go along.


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## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

sailingfool said:


> Maybe raced in a light air region? The short track next to the cockpit might trim a 155%, hard to see just where it is. However a smaller sail, such as a 120% or less, trimmed to the toerail, will point some 10 degrees less than with a track inside the shrouds, and go no faster (and that is personal experience with the boat). From a race perspective, you may as well stay at home.
> 
> FWIW, I found this boat to be extremely competitive in PHRF, sailing to or above its rating in all conditions. When the breeze got over 18 or so, the boat really hustled, it was not uncommon to beat the bigger C&C 33s or 34s, boat for boat, even though they started 10 minutes earlier... definitely


My old boat was raced for 20+ years with the same short track. According to the previous owner he did very well. I asked him why he never installed one and he said it was not needed.

The boat is very stiff, was designed to fly huge head sails and I found I could carry a 135 in some pretty serious winds, and that was without a reef in the main.

I also noticed that with all the racing sails my boat came with even the 110% was cut with a short luff and a long foot. It was stubby but it still overlapped the main and could be trimmed well with that short track.

I'm no expert in design and theory, but I believe this boat was designed when "the slot" was considered very important in generating lift.

Another sail in the old inventory was a 175% genny.... now THAT was an overlap


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## ltgoshen (Jan 5, 2009)

*Head sails*



RobGallagher said:


> My old boat was raced for 20+ years with the same short track. According to the previous owner he did very well. I asked him why he never installed one and he said it was not needed.
> 
> The boat is very stiff, was designed to fly huge head sails and I found I could carry a 135 in some pretty serious winds, and that was without a reef in the main.
> 
> ...


Not sure I have ever seen a "HeadSail" like this one. It has a reef in it? Is this a storm sail or a racing sail? nade in EnglandSailmakers | Sailmaking | Jeckells The Sailmakers
here ia a photo of the sail.


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## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

ltgoshen said:


> Not sure I have ever seen a "HeadSail" like this one. It has a reef in it? Is this a storm sail or a racing sail? nade in EnglandSailmakers | Sailmaking | Jeckells The Sailmakers
> here ia a photo of the sail.


Let me rephrase;

I'll call it "fractional". It has a long foot that overlaps the main but the luff only hoists (approx) 3/4 of the way up the headstay.

The overall sq. footage of the sail might be equal to a 100% or 110% but there is more of an overlap at the foot, less as the leach rises because it is fractional.

I'm sure the sail was made for the boat, so, I'm gonna assume it was a racing sail. It had the corresponding sail numbers on the sail and information on the sail bag.

I never used it much because it would have needed a _very_ long pennant at the head to work on the roller furling. It went with the boat when I sold it.


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