# My boat needs a new cockpit.



## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Our old 1961 Alden Challenger yawl is Alden's first glass hull and deck. The rest of the boat - like the cockpit which has rotted beyond repair - is built of wood.

I have a plan to build a new cockpit, off the boat, in a warm shop. Using a template carefully scribed to fit the perimeter of the coamings and cabin at the bridge/seat deck height,...










...that has been my pattern for a new cockpit built of 3/4" Marine plywood(you can see the template hanging overhead).










The old cockpit was a joy to use, but it had some design problems as well as the fact it was losing strength all around.










This project has been an opportunity to fix what I didn't like in the old cockpit; a better seat channel drain system,...










...trapazoid shaped locker lids for better stowage and access, a stronger all around platform for working the boat(every inch of a cockpit gets walked on). I'm looking forward to a drier, stronger cockpit.










Plus it has been fun to study similar boats and countless photos of cockpit design. Tropical hardwoods like Teak are expensive! I've cut my veneer decking and trim out of Ipe lumber, a very hard, dense and rot resistant species that is 1/3rd the cost of teak wood.

Here, the 'planks' are dry fit. Next, the planks are set in epoxy and the screws are refastened(they act as temporary clamps).










Once the epoxy is dry, the screws are removed - the pilot holes bored to 3/8" to the full depth of the Ipe decking(1/2"), and full depth plugs set in epoxy. The whole deck, including the cockpit sole, sanded flush and the 1/8" seams caulked with traditional black rubber sealant.










The final trick is the outer perimeter Ipe margin trim boards - that won't be adhered in epoxy - will be removed. This spring the new cockpit will be lowered into the void(I haven't plowed out that void yet,...). The outer perimeter of the 3/4" ply will be epoxied and fastened to a perimeter ledge to be installed(later).

Finally, the perimeter margin deck boards will be epoxied in place - sanded - and the last outer seams caulked and finished. The binnacle - manhole - etc. replaced in pre fitted holes cut in the shop. Work so far has been a pleasure at this standing height. It would be a brutal task to do onboard, especially outside in a Maine winter.


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## sharkbait (Jun 3, 2003)

Pretty work


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## dylanwinter1 (Jan 15, 2010)

that looks lovely

good job that man


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

show off...
yeah it is lovely.
yeah i has carpenter envy.
yeah it is GORGEOUS...... i would say mine next, but .....


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## olson34 (Oct 13, 2000)

My, that IS good looking!
Noticed the choice of a less-expensive version of teak-like planking.
It has been about five years since we did a major remodel of out house and needed to source solid flooring that would fit the budget. We found Cumaru.
I found a short description from the 'net:
"Cumaru, also known as Brazilian Teak or Golden Teak, is a naturally durable Brazilian timber with a density similar to Ipe. Its consistent golden brown color and moderate cost make it an attractive alternate to more expensive hardwoods such as Teak or Ipe."

Anyhow, the look is wonderful, and almost indistinguishable from true teak.

It was affordable (well, as much as anything could be considered affordable on large project like this...) and the Admiral loves it. The wood dealer told me it had a hardness number that was twice that of red oak. 
As for resisting dents and scratches, I believe it.

So carry on. That's a veritable piece of Fine Art you are sailing !!


Regards,
Loren


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Beautiful work.. clever plan.


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

olson34 said:


> My, that IS good looking!
> Noticed the choice of a less-expensive version of teak-like planking.
> It has been about five years since we did a major remodel of out house and needed to source solid flooring that would fit the budget. We found Cumaru.
> I found a short description from the 'net:
> ...


Used Brazilian Teak for my 'teak and holly' cabin sole. I've dropped tons of stuff on it and nary a dent.


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

olson34 said:


> My, that IS good looking!
> Noticed the choice of a less-expensive version of teak-like planking.
> It has been about five years since we did a major remodel of out house and needed to source solid flooring that would fit the budget. We found Cumaru.
> I found a short description from the 'net:
> ...


Used Brazilian Teak for my 'teak and holly' cabin sole. I've dropped tons of stuff on it and nary a dent.


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

You're retired - right?

It looks gorgeous!


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## guitarguy56 (Oct 10, 2012)

Tom... That is just simply beautiful woodwork and enjoy seeing the before and after photos. Enjoy the fruits of your labor, I love seeing carpentry done well. My hat's off to you!


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## Bleemus (Oct 13, 2015)

Gorgeous!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## socal c25 (Nov 1, 2013)

Absolutely beautiful, great skills, you should just continue on and build the whole damn boat, it would surely look better than original.


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## CVAT (Apr 29, 2012)

Beautiful work.


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## gamayun (Aug 20, 2009)

Amazing. When you said "wood boat" and "rotted beyond repair" I thought there was only one option. That's outstanding work.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

eherlihy said:


> You're retired - right?


In fact I'm not. This is just one project I have going on right now.

I'm more productive working on something like this in stints instead of full time. My usual work is home/design building. Self employment gives me a flexible schedule, that allows time for a project like this.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Ton of work. Looks beautiful!!


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## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

Wonderful. Keep us posted with more pics.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

RobGallagher said:


> Wonderful. Keep us posted with more pics.


Will do.

This project is much more labor intensive than I expected. The long coastal Maine winter is working in my favor. Spring is beyond hope at this point and I feel no time pressure(yet). A few hours here, a few hours there.










And finally all the upper deck pieces are fitted.










Then - section by section - , the pieces come off, cleaned with acetone(Ipe is oily like teak) and brushed with thickened epoxy(both surfaces), and get fastened back in place.










Then a few days later, the screws are removed, their pilot holes bored out to 3/8" x 1/2" deep, and Ipe plugs - in epoxy - are inserted.










...and a few days later, the plugs are cut off flush and the surface is flattened by 40 grit paper(the Ipe laughed at 60 grit). Then a quick pass with 60 grit and it's already smooth as glass. This wood is so hard, I think I can toss the winch handle into it and not make a dent.










The Ipe is extremely tight grained(shows in this close up) and dense. It should wear like iron.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

That is impressive work!


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Inspiring!


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## Shockwave (Feb 4, 2014)

Nice work Tom! We bring our stuff home and varnish during the winter. Never brought home a complete cockpit though.


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## smackdaddy (Aug 13, 2008)

Wow. Just wow.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Tom did you mill all the boards too? Is this stuff as hard on saws and tools as teak? or harder? Was it difficult to source? Priced comparably?


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## Lakepapa (Jul 21, 2015)

Gorgeous!!


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## copacabana (Oct 1, 2007)

Beautiful work Tom. Your boat is a work of art!
Brazilian Ipê is a very, very tough wood (used here in Brazil for floors, decks and boats). You'll get many years of service from it.


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## rnixon (May 7, 2013)

Wow - that's extremely impressive. The attention to detail and precision is astounding. It looks lovely too - it's a work of art. Thanks for the photos.

Roger


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Faster said:


> Tom did you mill all the boards too? Is this stuff as hard on saws and tools as teak? or harder? Was it difficult to source? Priced comparably?


I bought the Ipe primarily for it's price and availability. 1/3rd the cost of Teak, I was able to order it through my local lumber supplier and have it delivered in a day or two.

Ipe is in fact 3 times harder than teak(according to it's Janka rating). That makes it tougher on tools. It takes a slow feed rate to resaw on my 14" bandsaw. I cut all the parts out of 2x6" Ipe stock, both on a 10" table saw with a carbide blade and a bandsaw with a standard, sharp blade.

I would have preferred to use teak or in fact a few other substitutes for easier working(which I've uncovered since).

But all in all, I haven't found the Ipe as hard to work as some of the accounts I've read. It cuts smoothly(if a bit slower), hand planes well and the edge shapes nicely without tearing out. I'm pleased how flat and smooth it sands.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Cockpit porn... absolutely beautiful Tom


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

TomMaine said:


> Will do.
> 
> This project is much more labor intensive than I expected. The long coastal Maine winter is working in my favor. Spring is beyond hope at this point and I feel no time pressure(yet). A few hours here, a few hours there.
> 
> ...


Beautiful, as a fellow woodworker, truly beautiful. I have a couple of the flexible blade Japanese pull saws kinda hard to imagine doing without them now. Cutting plugs flush and similar hand work they can't be beat. I even keep on in the tool kit on the Boat I'm always adding handholds down below.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

albrazzi said:


> Cutting plugs flush and similar hand work they can't be beat. I even keep on in the tool kit on the Boat I'm always adding handholds down below.


 That's exactly what I used to cut the plugs flush(the pull cut is more gentle to them), and like you, I also have one of these pull saws(it breaks into 2 pieces), on the boat.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

I really appreciate that you are doing such wonderful work on my boat. When are you selling it to me? :devil


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

You know the best part of a Job like this is how much more you enjoy the Boat once its done. People just want to touch it when they see that kind of work. I know what you mean about the coarse sandpaper, you need to get the cut done fast so it stays flat. The oily woods just clog fine paper. I don't use the rubber sanding blocks a chunk of hardwood works best.


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## cshrimpt (Jun 8, 2015)

Wow, very nice. I hope you don't wreck it by actually putting it in the water.

CS


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

TomMaine said:


> ....Ipe is in fact 3 times harder than teak(according to it's Janka rating)......


As I said, beautiful work. Is it known what it is like under foot, when wet? I have no idea why teak is good under foot, but you got me wondering if harder could mean slippery.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> As I said, beautiful work.et? I have no idea why teak is good under foot, but you got me wondering if harder could mean slippery.


Good question. I did some research and because Ipe is growing in the residential/commercial decking industry, it actually has a rating from the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act). Apparently it passes their requirements for not being slippery, when wet.

Still, teak is the marine standard so it will be interesting to see how Ipe performs and holds up in this - generally teak - application.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

TomMaine said:


> Good question. I did some research and because Ipe is growing in the residential/commercial decking industry, it actually has a rating from the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act). Apparently it passes their requirements for not being slippery, when wet.
> 
> Still, teak is the marine standard so it will be interesting to see how Ipe performs and holds up in this - generally teak - application.


Please let us know. Makes me wonder if this is a choice for side decking material. I p'm staring down that replacement barrel at some point. I just had to have the teak. Ugh.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

Are you using bungs and screws to match other work on the boat, I thought the general thought was to just use modern adhesive to avoid the leaks through the screws. I do have to say they look very traditional.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

miatapaul said:


> Are you using bungs and screws to match other work on the boat, I thought the general thought was to just use modern adhesive to avoid the leaks through the screws. I do have to say they look very traditional.


I'm using a method recommended by a boat builder friend. You're right, screws are out today, for holding veneer decking.

I've used pan head screws to 'clamp' the decking to the plywood base. Both surfaces are well coated with thickened West system epoxy. The screws are tightened enough to get a little squeeze out of the epoxy.

Once the epoxy is dry, the screws are removed(it takes a few seconds with a soldering iron tip on the screw head, to heat the epoxy enough to let the screw loosen).

Next, the pilot holes left by those screws, are bored out to 3/8" wide to the full depth (1/2") of the decking. The 3/8" holes and Ipe 3/8" plugs are brushed with West epoxy - tapped in full depth - and left to dry.

In effect the plugs are now part of the decking, there are no screws, and there is no way for water to find itself into the epoxy filled screw holes, even when the caulking begins to fail.

I'm pretty sure this teak deck was installed with this method:

Look closely, you can see the plugs(with no screws below).










Another method is to use screws and washers turned into the spacing between the planks, to hold the decking down while epoxy dries.

I think the former idea is better for snapping the pieces back into their positions in epoxy as well as long term, but it probably is a bit more work.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

TomMaine said:


> I'm using a method recommended by a boat builder friend. You're right, screws are out today, for holding veneer decking.
> 
> I've used pan head screws to 'clamp' the decking to the plywood base. Both surfaces are well coated with thickened West system epoxy. The screws are tightened enough to get a little squeeze out of the epoxy.
> 
> ...


Well I really appreciate the effort on my cockpit. (You know the Audi certified preowned commercials where the guy scolds the owner for not treating there future car right) I do like the boat so much, but seeing the work you are putting into it I can see why boat manufacturers switched to glass decks! I looked at a Vindo that has similar construction, but was way more work than I would want to get started on, so I will just wait till your finished!


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## Jud (Oct 7, 2015)

Tom,

You're a saw-wielding mad-man --love it! I once met a guy who owned a boat called a Cascade 36. The only way he could remove the engine was by cutting out the entire cockpit floor (!), so when I first saw your post about your boat needing a new cockpit, I thought to myself, "oh no, not another one of those poor guys!" 

Jud


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

TomMaine said:


> I'm using a method recommended by a boat builder friend. You're right, screws are out today, for holding veneer decking.
> 
> I've used pan head screws to 'clamp' the decking to the plywood base. Both surfaces are well coated with thickened West system epoxy. The screws are tightened enough to get a little squeeze out of the epoxy.
> 
> ...


The Beauty of that wood is just unbelievable, nice mix of gloss and natural on deck. I would literally drive myself crazy keeping up with something like that. Truly a bucket list item, the best would be someone doing most of the real work so I could sail it.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

albrazzi said:


> The Beauty of that wood is just unbelievable, nice mix of gloss and natural on deck. I would literally drive myself crazy keeping up with something like that. Truly a bucket list item, the best would be someone doing most of the real work so I could sail it.


Here's the same design, 15 years old. You have to keep up with brightwork, but all the raw teak you see just weathers to grey. At least that part is no maintenance.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> Please let us know. Makes me wonder if this is a choice for side decking material. I p'm staring down that replacement barrel at some point. I just had to have the teak. Ugh.


I've seen other alternatives of tropical hardwoods used on some beautiful boats. The price of teak is driving the search.

Will your decks need replacing or re-caulking? I'm sure yours are veneer on glass side decks(?). What's their state and age?


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

and you've never awakened from a nightmare where the cockpit did not fix the hull?
How does one measure so accurately on a boat where plumb and straight have no meaning?
John


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

ccriders said:


> and you've never awakened from a nightmare where the cockpit did not fix the hull?
> How does one measure so accurately on a boat where plumb and straight have no meaning?
> John


Templates, and trial fit over and over sometimes. When I build something its a trip to the Marina sometimes just to see what the next step is. Having it in a shed next to the shop would be invaluable. If I had the means the shop would be on the second level so you could just step on. 
Oh the things I would have if my wallet could keep up with my brain.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

ccriders said:


> and you've never awakened from a nightmare where the cockpit did not fix the hull?
> How does one measure so accurately on a boat where plumb and straight have no meaning?
> John


No nightmares - yet, but I've had a few anxiety attics.

Of course it won't fit, something will be wrong! I'm used to my surprisingly reckless errors, especially in measuring.

I made sure that the important fit - the perimeter - was left to a template(as Albrazzi mentions). I rechecked that on both the new cockpit and the boat.

The other parts that are dependent on measurements, I've been triple checking.

But something will be wrong, I have no doubt, and I will fix it(I'm good at that,...). I'll have saws and shims at the ready,....


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

TomMaine said:


> I've seen other alternatives of tropical hardwoods used on some beautiful boats. The price of teak is driving the search.
> 
> Will your decks need replacing or re-caulking? I'm sure yours are veneer on glass side decks(?). What's their state and age?


Mine are in okay condition at the moment. I've recaulked a few sections, but it require meticulous masking, because there isn't enough board thickness to withstand a full sanding.

The teak side decks are glued down, on top of factory standard non-skid, with any temporary screws that would be placed in the caulking gap to be removed and epoxied closed. Every leak, or more commonly caulk separation, has been on top of a screw that was never removed at the factory. The individuals board are tongue and groove into each other and I'm told come as a system, which is probably what you mean by veneer. Maybe Jeanneau would just send a new set? Haven't asked, but if I was convinced I would keep her for 20 more years, I would want a better product.

I think I can keep up with the tweaking for a few more years. I keep the wood relatively clean and haven't had to replace a board yet. It's usually either some caulking replacement or having to get under a corner and reglue to the deck.

I dread having to remove and replace it all, which is when I'll beat myself up for getting it in the first place. But I had to have it, ugh!

Returning to non-skid really isn't an option anymore. It would require aggressive grinding of the non-skid that his laden with adhesive and then painting. I don't want a painted deck, which would need repair before the next teak deck would need to be replaced. I totally processed all this when I bought her, but the curbside appeal got the best of me.


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## oldragbaggers (Dec 6, 2005)

Uh oh, I think I might slip in a puddle of my own drool. How gorgeous.


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

TomMaine said:


> Good question. I did some research and because Ipe is growing in the residential/commercial decking industry, it actually has a rating from the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act). Apparently it passes their requirements for not being slippery, when wet.
> 
> Still, teak is the marine standard so it will be interesting to see how Ipe performs and holds up in this - generally teak - application.


Having walked barefoot and shoed on both when wet (teak on board, ipe on seaside walks with sea-spray), they are fairly equivalent.


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

Spectacular, Tom. Want to come work on mine next winter?
And when you're ready, she won't have to sail far north to her new mooring.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Every shop should have a bench dog, or two(there is another one in the photo,...).










Being able to raise and lower this project is a big help.










This allows easy finish sanding and painting of the fiberglass well sides. I can now build the simple inset engine panel box at a comfortable height.

Plus remove the plywood cockpit sole, and put that on horses to start the decking.










The cockpit sole has a perimeter frame that's called a 'grub'. Cut with a 1/2" radius cove, it gives a nice transition between raw wood and finished well and keeps the finished area dry.


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## Chas H (Sep 6, 2013)

I enjoy looking at your tools laying about as much as the fine woodworking.
-CH


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## Ninefingers (Oct 15, 2009)

Beautiful work. I work quite a bit with Ipe. Have you had the unfortunate luck to get a sliver?


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Ninefingers said:


> Beautiful work. I work quite a bit with Ipe. Have you had the unfortunate luck to get a sliver?


A few but they weren't too bad. It's the type of wood you pick up slowly, and carefully. And edges after ripping are sharp!

Once sanded though I'm pleased with how splinter free it becomes. How about you? What are you using it for?


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

Ninefingers said:


> Beautiful work. I work quite a bit with Ipe. Have you had the unfortunate luck to get a sliver?


I've had plenty of Glass and Brass one over the years, they just sit there no rejection. If you don't dig them out they're in forever. What does IPE do?
Oh and what happened to the 10th finger:eek


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

albrazzi said:


> Ninefingers said:
> 
> 
> > Beautiful work. I work quite a bit with Ipe. Have you had the unfortunate luck to get a sliver?
> ...


It's quite a bit like PT under the skin. And hell on tools.


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## Shockwave (Feb 4, 2014)

Beautiful work Tom, you're truly a craftsman.


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## Ninefingers (Oct 15, 2009)

albrazzi said:


> I've had plenty of Glass and Brass one over the years, they just sit there no rejection. If you don't dig them out they're in forever. What does IPE do?
> Oh and what happened to the 10th finger:eek


Oh, the tenth finger went away with a circular saw ten years ago. Not as painful as one would think, but I only lost the top inch or so. I'm a deck and porch carpenter - this is my work Porches Fences Decks Toronto Porch Renovations for anyone interested. My poor left hand . The right hand holds the weapon, the left suffers the consequences.

Ipe has some natural defense oils in it, (I think). In any event, when you get a sliver you can expect pain and a bit of swelling. Also, if you are creating a lot of dust with it, wear a mask, and try to clean your skin frequently. It will give you sore throat and a bit of burning on your face if you mix it with sweat.

Ipe is the most stable/hardest of the South American hardwoods. Some of the others can cup/shrink/swell a bit.

I really like Garapa, but have only used it once. It's a golden colour - very, very consistent between pieces. Little softer than Ipe, and a little cheaper.

Looking forward to working with Spanish Cedar this month.

I'm no super expert, but I'm happy to help if anyone has questions.

Maine, will you oiling the Ipe?


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Impressive website! Nice layout, good info, great photos. You do fine work. I bet you're busy. 

I don't plan to do anything to the Ipe except hose it down occasionally.


It seems harder than teak so I'm thinking I'll be able to wash it as often as it needs without wearing away the softer pulp wood.

What do you think?


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## Ninefingers (Oct 15, 2009)

Thanks!

It's near impossible to damage Ipe. I've dropped so many hammers on it, and nothing happens. 

Generally speaking, I oil it with a UV protector like Messmers UV for Hardwoods, or if you can find it TWP. It will even out the colour variances, but then again, so will time with no oil. If you do nothing to it, it will be fine and grey like Teak. And if you ever want to bring it back to 90% new, just apply an Oxalic wash along with some good stiff brush scrubbing. Or whatever. It doesn't matter. You can't kill it. 

That said, most metals other than stainless steel will leave a black mark if you leave them sitting on the Ipe after a rain. I just tell my clients to make sure the have plastic feet on their chairs.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Nice portfolio, Nine!


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

TomMaine said:


> ....It seems harder than teak so I'm thinking I'll be able to wash it as often as it needs without wearing away the softer pulp wood.
> 
> What do you think?


You might be right, but I would use a scotch brite pad just in case. They work just as well as a bristle brush, so why take chances. UV is one powerful caustic agent.

Let us know how she holds up.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

I took a two a break from working on the cockpit.

During that break, and somewhat boating realted: I shot this young Venetian, lost in time (it seemed), from a Vaporetto (public boat-bus), in Venice.










I'm back to work on the cockpit. With the sole decking finally ready for caulk,...










...it was time to tear it up. My old boat has a bronze manhole for engine access that I couldn't live without.

Saws, chiesels, spoke shave, I never thought the destruction would end.










This access fits flush to the sole. This is how it will look (here in the old cockpit sole), eventually.










Finally the gains cut in the Ipe were right, and the bronze settled in place,..flush.










All I have left is to fit the Ipe decking into the recessed pan - that brings it flush with the sole. That will take more than a minute. Then it's time to fit the binnacle,.... (still on the boat).

I have near endless details. I spent a day fabricating an ignition panel. I copied the original and then tweaked every detail. After a decade and a half with a boat, you know what will improve things.

Now I can go to the boat - and while unbolting the binnacle - disconnect the old ignition panel, and start transferring gauges and switches.


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## Shockwave (Feb 4, 2014)

Looks awesome Tom but I'm curious, did you use a router to making the hole for the bronze manhole?


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

That is art work Tom... wow


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Shockwave said:


> Looks awesome Tom but I'm curious, did you use a router to making the hole for the bronze manhole?


I thought about cutting a template to use a router. But because the perimeter trim piece is raised, I couldn't see how to make a template fit, and decided to cut the gain for the bronze rim, by hand.

Tedious. It took several new razor knife blades to cut the outer circle. Then it took quite a bit of time with chisels(all sizes) to finish - two or three passes to make it the right detph. The chisels had to be sharpened a few times as the Ipe is so hard.

I'll remove it to caulk the seams, then install it in sealant(probably the deck caulk).

Thanks.


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## Stumble (Feb 2, 2012)

TomMaine said:


> I thought about cutting a template to use a router. But because the perimeter trim piece is raised, I couldn't see how to make a template fit, and decided to cut the gain for the bronze rim, by hand.
> 
> Tedious. It took several new razor knife blades to cut the outer circle. Then it took quite a bit of time with chisels(all sizes) to finish - two or three passes to make it the right detph. The chisels had to be sharpened a few times as the Ipe is so hard.
> 
> ...


Tom,

This is absolutely beautiful work. If you ever want to switch careers I think you may have found it.

I don't claim your skill set, but as an armature woodworker may I suggest...

You could have used a router. But instead of working from the top of the piece, mount a MDF template to the top, then come at it from the bottom with a rabbit bit with the bearing on the template. I have used this technique on floorboards to good effect in the past to cut reliefs for inset panels.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

The last of the decking, installed in the bronze access cover(ready for caulking).










Having built the ignition panel a little deeper and a bit larger, it occurred to me, a tablet would fit easily behind the sliding door in front of switches, gauges.

In fact there's room for an iphone as well. Not a permanent location but at times the spot (dry), might be handy.

The tablet floats around our cockpit and cabin as a second CP.

And devices might as well be charging so I'll add a dual USB charging receptacle high on the ignition panel.

Good idea,...or no?


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

I like, but would be worried about not seeing the temp gauge.


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## johnny buddha (Jan 12, 2016)

Beautiful work!


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I like the idea of having a place to temporarily hide the electronics, but as mentioned, I would want my warning lights or gauges to remain effective. If you have audible alarms, it's probably fine.

The wood work look gorgeous. Is it just the picture, or do the slats inside the deck cover have a reveal above the plane of the deck? If they do, that would be a wear point and probably impossible to truly caulk the end grain.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> I like the idea of having a place to temporarily hide the electronics, but as mentioned, I would want my warning lights or gauges to remain effective. If you have audible alarms, it's probably fine.
> 
> Is it just the picture, or do the slats inside the deck cover have a reveal above the plane of the deck? If they do, that would be a wear point and probably impossible to truly caulk the end grain.


The decking is all flush. A straight edge lays flat across the the decking and bronze rim.

I do have alarms but under power, I too would be uncomfortable not seeing the Temp and Oil gauges. We're as often under sail alone.

In benign conditions - like this, ghosting up Blue Hill Bay last August - the tablet is just propped up on the bridgedeck or under the dodger.

I'm rarely behind the wheel underway - our minimal gizmos (and sail handling), are all forward. I sail just forward of the wheel 95% of the time.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Having done some novice woodwooking (built a desk, some end tables for example) and some interior boat remodeling here and there, I am extremely impressed with your skills Tom, the fit and finish is top notch. She is going to look incredible when its all complete.


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## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

Lovely work Tom! Just wondering what thoughts/feelings you have on stability, finish vs no finish let it weather of IPE compared to teak? I do realize the payed joints allow for lots of movement in this application.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

deniseO30 said:


> Lovely work Tom! Just wondering what thoughts/feelings you have on stability, finish vs no finish let it weather of IPE compared to teak? I do realize the payed joints allow for lots of movement in this application.


Hi Denise. I've always worried about the movement of the decking in this project.

For starters, I kept the decking itself, quite narrow - 1 1/2". Thinking the smaller pieces will have less movement than a wider strip.

But some of the trim pieces are wider and those are the ones that will move the most.

Then there is the bed of epoxy(applied to both substrate and Ipe) which fully adheres the Ipe to the plywood. I think that should help as well(but?).

And from my research, Ipe is harder than Teak - for wear, and reputed to be more stable than Teak(the cost is it's heavier as well-I don't like that). But Teak works in this application, and has history! I don't have any experience with Ipe in this application.

A bigger fear is any problem checking of the Ipe as it soaks up moisture and bakes - dry - in the sun. Wood torture!

All these factors would be minimized by a finish of some kind(teak oil), but I'm going to go without. I hope to just hose it off occasionally.

I'll let you know if there are any problems. Thanks.

Your work is impressive!


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## Ninefingers (Oct 15, 2009)

Love it Tom. Ipe does check a bit, but you shouldn't get any deep cracks, it just too sinewy to split - the quality of the grain looks very good BTW. It will expand a bit, but given that you are using narrow boards - it will be almost non existent. 

Tough call on any treatment as far as oiling goes. You get a bit of UV protection and check prevention for the first year or so, but subsequent coatings can build a layer of slippery crap.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

Tom, a question for you and Ninefingers. Are the really oily woods and ones as dense as Ipe dried to a nominal moisture content as all others are. I'm a wood guy and I should know this but I don't. I would think epoxied in small strips you would get minimal checking, most of which happens on the ends of drying lumber, the premium stuff will sometimes get a wax on the ends during curing so it dries through the face and not the ends. Again beautiful work, Ironic I choose a Boat with SS cabin top handholds as much as I love wood. Sometimes I love Stainless more.


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## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

Our yacht club got a deal on a lot of Ipe maybe 10 years ago and we redid our main dock and side deck with it. It has not been treated with anything and has stood up very well. No checking and nice even gray color.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

JimsCAL said:


> Our yacht club got a deal on a lot of Ipe maybe 10 years ago and we redid our main dock and side deck with it. It has not been treated with anything and has stood up very well. No checking and nice even gray color.


Ive seen insane amounts of this stuff used at local Marinas, agreed it looks great better than PT pine in 5 years for sure.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

albrazzi said:


> Tom, a question for you and Ninefingers. Are the really oily woods and ones as dense as Ipe dried to a nominal moisture content as all others are. I'm a wood guy and I should know this but I don't. I would think epoxied in small strips you would get minimal checking, most of which happens on the ends of drying lumber, the premium stuff will sometimes get a wax on the ends during curing so it dries through the face and not the ends. Again beautiful work, Ironic I choose a Boat with SS cabin top handholds as much as I love wood. Sometimes I love Stainless more.


The Ipe was dry (I assume kiln) and the ends were coated. It came from a supplier my supplier uses regularly so I trust them. The material was very nicely covered and strapped so they wanted to protect their product both from shipping and moisture.

The strips have been in a mostly heated shop now for a few months and I don't see any movement. I'm sure it has shrunk a bit more but not enough to notice.

I like SS too!


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

Ipe (pronounced like eBay - for those unfamiliar with it) is also known by the name "iron wood". I used a hunk of it for an aft chain plate knee wall replacement. While working the shape at the dock I cut some pieces off into the water and they sank like a stone (more dense than water). 
I'll join the choir: Tom, that is some f**king amazing work. You are an inspiriation.


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## Ninefingers (Oct 15, 2009)

albrazzi said:


> Tom, a question for you and Ninefingers. Are the really oily woods and ones as dense as Ipe dried to a nominal moisture content as all others are. I'm a wood guy and I should know this but I don't. I would think epoxied in small strips you would get minimal checking, most of which happens on the ends of drying lumber, the premium stuff will sometimes get a wax on the ends during curing so it dries through the face and not the ends. Again beautiful work, Ironic I choose a Boat with SS cabin top handholds as much as I love wood. Sometimes I love Stainless more.


Ipe is usually air dried at the source, (Brazil). As far as I know, there is no inspection for moisture content. I have a feeling it doesn't kiln dry well. It always arrives to me with waxed ends. I have been told to wax or oil the ends after cutting - something to do with the heat of the blade sucking out oils from the wood - which sounds a hocusy pocusy.

Keep in mind, Ipe will do what it damn well feels like doing. If a rogue piece wants to twist - there is no glue nor screw that will prevent it. You'd have better luck wrestling a Gorilla. The darker the piece, the more density and muscle it has.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

*A better engine panel layout.*

This boat is on it's 3rd engine. I think the panel is original and went with it's Graymarine gasoline in 1961. As well as looking a little dog-eared(like the rest of the old cockpit), it doesn't make much sense.










Using what gauges and switches I have (cleaned them up), I tried a more intuitive layout. As I'm looking at the engine from the helm:

Center/Engine - tachometer.

Port side of engine has the water coolant reservoir and the starting battery - hence: Temperature Gauge and Starting battery Ampere gauge - port of tach.

Starboard side of engine has oil dip stick, oil filter and the house bank of batteries - hence: Oil Pressure Gauge and House Bank charging Ampere gauge - starboard of tach.

Light switch group of 5 toggles(have to get them), from top down - in their actual order: Mast Head -- Steaming -- Spreaders -- Running Lights -- Engine Panel lights.

Engine starting group: Port glow plugs solenoid -- Center Ignition -- Starboard STOP solenoid.

Pull switches: Bottom Alternator ON/OFF Middle Alternator Hi/Lo Top- extra. I've left room at the top for a 12V receptacle and additions(I doubt I'll add)










I know it's old school but these old gauges work on my simple electrical systems and I like the 'vintage' look on an old boat.


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## ultraclyde (Jun 4, 2014)

Classic look. That's going to be one superstar cockpit when you're done.


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

I've been watching your project. Wow, nicely done. I agree about putting in a 12V receptacle. I did that, and use it quite a bit.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

These days, I would add a high quality hard wired USB port, not a 12v cig receptacle that ends up with an adapter anyway.


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## tschmidty (Sep 25, 2008)

I would actually go with both a 12v and a usb if you can, there are combo sets pretty cheap and you could occasionally need the 12v.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Minnewaska said:


> These days, I would add a high quality hard wired USB port, not a 12v cig receptacle that ends up with an adapter anyway.





tschmidty said:


> I would actually go with both a 12v and a usb if you can, there are combo sets pretty cheap and you could occasionally need the 12v.


I waffled on which receptacle and I think you're both right. But I settled on the 12V because I thought it might be handy for a 12V search light I keep onboard. And then just a single because space is tight in this panel, but thanks. I started from scratch wiring up the new panel. I'm still archaic in wiring - gauges, but safer.

And now it will be easier to make upgrades to instruments and fusing(most of the original ignition circuit was unfused).










The engine wiring harness - presumably installed in 1974 with a new diesel - had 20 feet of left over bundled harness coiled and stuffed into the chase. Cutting off that 20' of harness was liberating. Suddenly I had space to tend to the 54 year old birds nest(and this will lead to upgrading the original house bank distribution panel,...next winter?).










I left enough of the old harness to reconnect with sufficient slack to pull the panel out to a comfortable working distance. All the lighting switches come off fused circuits from the main distribution panel(red). They'll all be crimped when the cockpit goes in.

It's all complete now - plug and play - as they say.


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## captjcook (Sep 27, 2008)

Hi Tom,
Just want to say "Well Done!" The traditional gage panel, well it's just proper. Thanks for including your bench & boat helpers...they seem right at home. Such a great opportunity to service all those hard to reach areas while the old cockpit is out too!
Quite the undertaking, it will return years of heart felt joy...every time you step aboard!
Thanks for sharing!
Jim


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

After and hour of so trying the remove the old binnacle with screw drivers and wrenches, I became annoyed at the slow progress.

A sawzall speeded things up.










About 15-20 years ago, a boatyard added an aluminum plate sandwich below the binnacle, slathered with goop(thankfully not 5200), and through bolted it all together. During the autopsy I could see where they also cut in plywood patch. All this was an attempt to strengthen the sole. It did the trick for a while. Glad I don't need re-install this.










In dismantling and soaking the pulleys in solvent, I found a few broken strands in the cables. Closer look, I found several broken strands. I was hoping to get right to fitting it to the sole. Another detour - take them to the local rigger for replacements. The teak donut has a second and final coat of epoxy and will be painted.

Soon,...I'll be cutting and fitting it to the sole.


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## Ninefingers (Oct 15, 2009)

On the subject of wood...I just finished working with some Iroko. It's a very pretty wood. Sort of a blond teak. I believe Beneteau and others use it on decks, etc. 

It is however a bear to plane, or at least run through a planer. The grain fights the blades and and it's very easy to end up with burn marks. Curiously, it sands very well. It's hard, but it's soft. I am aware that comment makes no sense. It's hardwood that thinks it's softwood...sometimes...lol. Or not. Very confusing wood. But really pretty.


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

Ninefingers said:


> On the subject of wood...I just finished working with some Iroko. It's a very pretty wood. Sort of a blond teak. I believe Beneteau and others use it on decks, etc.
> 
> It is however a bear to plane, or at least run through a planer. The grain fights the blades and and it's very easy to end up with burn marks. Curiously, it sands very well. It's hard, but it's soft. I am aware that comment makes no sense. It's hardwood that thinks it's softwood...sometimes...lol. Or not. Very confusing wood. But really pretty.


The grain is fussy, but the wood fibers between the grain is actually quite soft with largish cells and high resin and oil content. Very susceptible to losing material with harsh cleaners and bleaches, although it does allow it to have a nice grip when wet as the grain raises and gives it some ridges.


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

When does Christmas sail again?


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

seaner97 said:


> When does Christmas sail again?


Well,....

This weekend was my first real dive into removing the old cockpit. Daunting at first - like any demolition(I've done more than a few in the building field), then it begins to come apart quite easily. This was snapped about mid stream of the weekend demolition.










I was in the process of removing an ancient second ice box which I've been looking forward to removing for years. It robbed so much valuable cockpit locker space.

In any building demolition, I look for signs from the long gone builders. It's a hobby of mine. Builders used to think with a pencil in one hand. We tend to doodle our thoughts to make them more clear. This was the back of the starboard cockpit well and hidden until now. Someone in the Denmark boat yard (english speaking - metric thinking) was laying out the steering during construction.










Today, I use my iphone to photograph and make notes to myself for reassembly. Times change.

Leaving yesterday, I was left with the bridgedeck to remove. The cockpit sole is staying until last as it's a good staging height.

Now I have two projects. The new cockpit is nearing completion as I caulk joints and install parts like catches and steering and engine linkage.

The old cockpit project will take more of my attention as I figure out my 'ledge' that will attach the new cockpit to the coamings and cabin.

I have a drop dead date: Boats have to be off our public landing - June 1 I'm working on a large front porch project today, for a client.

I like a challenge...


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## Ninefingers (Oct 15, 2009)

Fantastic and gorgeous all in one! I love seeing old pencil notes.


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

Tom, for most people I'd think "Oh no! This is going to be a mess" But seeing how you've done the new cockpit, I am sure that this is going to be spectacular when you are done. Thanks for sharing this project, and I (we all) are looking forward to your pictures as you move along.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

I have found some interesting writing on the back of walls when I have done demolition in various houses I have lived in. I leave notes for future owners as well. When removing 1960's era paneling in the house I grew up in the workmen had used the construction adhesive as a pen to leave some less than nice words! My mother was "we have to paint over that right away!" And in another house I pulled down some sheet rock and it was printed clearly on the back "property of New York Department of Education" I learned from a neighbor that the guy who built the addition was working construction in the city and would bring a few pieces of materials home every day! Took him a couple of years to steal enough materials to build a 20X50 foot addition! 

Looks like your doing a great job.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Captjcook - who has been following this thread - had a brand new(never installed), Hobbs hour meter from the era of my boat. He generously sent the meter - that matches the other old gauges - to Maine, as a gift!

I'd left just enough room for another 2" gauge in the new engine panel, and here it is, installed.










I really appreciate this. Thank you, very much, Jim!


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Awesome!.. Classy move, Jim!


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## captjcook (Sep 27, 2008)

Tom,

I cannot think of a better home. You are most welcome!
Thank you for a great acknowledgement!

Thanks to Ron too!

Btw it arrived Monday, installed in one day and posted! Fast, nice work!

Jim


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Plugging along,...

As of last weekend, the old cockpit is in a heap next to the boat.










That opened up new 'adventures'. Wire brushing and cleaning the hull for a coat of primer and paint. And making room for repairs like re-glassing the post bases to the hull(and cutting out a replacement pair for the aft set). The coamings and cabin back will be 'wooded' (stripped of old varnish), and revarnished once the new cockpit is in place. Believe it or not, that's an easy and pleasant task to look forward to.










Problems from the rigger: "My studs won't fit the quadrant". Lot's of research turns up solutions, but they're not that simple. My rigger went over the cables and declared they're good for another season or two of coastal sailing. The steering cables project is added to the "deferred until next season", list.










The side tracks are frustrating at times. I keep my enthusiasm up by moving the new cockpit along. Little more than caulking left to do here. The clock is ticking for a spring launch.


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

Looking good, Tom. First day of the season for us tomorrow. Desperately trying to find the dinghy seats!


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Ledgers, 'L' shaped flanges built of two pieces of Fir, cut to the template shape, and sandwiched in epoxy.










These 'L's, will be adhered in epoxy and fastened -up- into the coamings/cabin back, and will connect the plywood flange of the new cockpit.

Here they are dry fit to test on the new cockpit...










and the same test fit, on the boat. The well (and the bulk of the weight of the cockpit) rests on the three athwartship beams(the 3rd, aft is out of the frame).

I've managed to clean and paint the interior of the lockers. It's gray but shows blue on the photo, probably because of the green tarp I'm working under.










Back at the shop, the new transplant, caulked and sanded, is just about ready to go out the door (9' wide door).



















I'm working with the boatyard to hoist it into place first of next week.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Beautiful work, Tom.. and what luxury to be able to mock up, and then build the whole thing in comfort and without weather issues, before 'simply' dropping the new in place.

And the beauty of this (unlike a topside paint job) you'll enjoy the sight of this for years to come every moment you're on board.


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## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Simply beautiful!


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

*My old boat got a new cockpit, yesterday.*

Friend Nate hoists the new cockpit up to friend Aled on deck. It was blowing over 20knots on the harbor, and cold but these guys were cool and calm.










Aled guiding the cockpit down the side decks toward the waiting chasm.










It fit! After pry baring it for an even clearance all around, I head in one direction - Aled in the other - drilling pilot holes through pre- counter sunk holes in the plywood flange. Then Nate raised the new cockpit one more time while I ran a bead of West 6-10 around the mating flange. Back down it went followed by driving 2 boxes of screws through the cockpit flange and into the ledger.

A quick dry fit of the deck margin boards showed, with a little scribing and planing, they'll work. There's still lots to do but a big task is complete.

It was a good day.I appreciate the encouragement and enthusiasm. Thanks.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

Pretty work, I like the boom on the travel lift they should all have that.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

That is spectacular, Tom. I haven't even done my seasonal cleaning of my teak deck yet this spring. Now I'm wondering why I would bother.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Truly stellar!


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

"A thing of beauty is a joy forever." Keep those pics comming, it's really fun to watch your project. Could you also include a picture (or more) of the boat overall? Perhaps under sail?

Thanks,
Scotty


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## rnixon (May 7, 2013)

Wow, that's beautiful, and it fits! Enjoy, and please keep the pictures coming,

Roger


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## Dog8It (Jan 2, 2007)

Really beautiful work. Thanks for sharing. Keep the pics coming.


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## elliowb (Jun 8, 2015)

TomMaine said:


> Ledgers, 'L' shaped flanges built of two pieces of Fir, cut to the template shape, and sandwiched in epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Absolutely gorgeous work!!

Just out of curiosity, when I've rebuilt cockpits many years ago, in a span like that, there was typically a deck beam or two and carlings along side the foot well. I notice that you have some supports under the footwell, but didn't see any deck beams. It looks like your rebuild is almost like a monocoque construction, so maybe deck beams aren't necessary, or maybe there weren't any to begin with.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

elliowb said:


> Absolutely gorgeous work!!
> 
> Just out of curiosity, when I've rebuilt cockpits many years ago, in a span like that, there was typically a deck beam or two and carlings along side the foot well. I notice that you have some supports under the footwell, but didn't see any deck beams. It looks like your rebuild is almost like a monocoque construction, so maybe deck beams aren't necessary, or maybe there weren't any to begin with.


In general, I kept the original support structure of the solid wood cockpit. The bulk of the weight is carried by 3 athwartship beams that support the well(I reinforced those 6 posts, the 3 beams and their fastenings).

The original deck level was 'hung' from the coamings(via screws only-up into coamings/cabin) and cabin back(no beams). I think I improved this with an epoxied and screwed ledger.

The coamings are through bolted to the fiberglass decks via a glass flange. These bolts are on about 4" centers, all around. This is the strongest link in the outer support of the cockpit.

In the design, my first priority was a drier cockpit. My close second priority, was a stronger cockpit. While wear and age added some weakness, the original design was a little under built in some areas.

One weak area was outboard of the locker lids(and the lids themselves ). In accomplishing (I hope) my first priority - with deeper wider drains and a better drain design of the lids - I was able to strengthen that area. The drains formed a longitudinal beam to help support the outboard side of the lids as well as form a beam along the coaming. That whole area originally flexed. No more, I'm happy to see.

And instead of a more pieced up cockpit, I did in fact go for a monocoque structure(as you deduced), for the cockpit and it's fastening to the boat.

I think new techniques and materials have made it easier today to achieve my priorities - a dryer, stronger cockpit - than those techniques available in 1960, with a more traditional solid wood construction.

There are no spans - now (in my opinion), that aren't easily handled by the strength of the components. Walking around and jumping on the original weak spots, I'm very, very pleased with the new stiffness of the decks and well(which used to flex considerably).

I'm lucky to be so near to a world class wooden boat builder. Not only do I observe an endless supply of traditional methods, I get to see state of the art practices in the industry(they build new - monocoque wood - as well as traditional plank on frame), and talk to the craftsmen at the yard (many are friends).

Over a decade ago, I began to see where they have adopted 'monocoque' methods to many areas of very traditional wooden boat building practices. Because my boat - fiberglass hull and decks and wooden cabin/ cockpit structure - is so peculiar in a world of wood or glass, some of these methods are a perfect solution for it.

For instance, several years ago, I glassed my side decks to the wooden cabin with a filet joint and tape (another documented project). 
I adopted that method(controversial by some traditional wooden boat builders) from these artisans at the boatyard.

They had many wooden boats treated this way with decades of trouble free experience for me to observe. I went further and carried that same seamless joint, around the cockpit.

Not only is this a bone dry connection, it's adding monocoque strength to the boats overall structure as well as eliminating joints which if not regularly maintained, destroy wood.

Thanks for your comments.


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## elliowb (Jun 8, 2015)

TomMaine said:


> In general, I kept the original support structure of the solid wood cockpit. The bulk of the weight is carried by 3 athwartship beams that support the well(I reinforced those 6 posts, the 3 beams and their fastenings).
> 
> The original deck level was 'hung' from the coamings(via screws only-up into coamings/cabin) and cabin back(no beams). I think I improved this with an epoxied and screwed ledger.
> 
> ...


No question that you've very significantly improved the strength of your cockpit, and the original has already lasted a good span of time.

You are definitely lucky to have all the expertise near by, although I'd have to say that you have your fair share of skill as well. I really wished I could have a more traditional boat, but was very concerned about the upkeep. Even though I could do it myself, I just don't have the time now and since I spent my early youth doing more building of boats than sailing them, I figure my later youth (well a bit older) should be spent on catching up on sailing.

Please keep the projects and picture coming. Not only is your woodwork beautiful, but your photography skills are great as well.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Tom... I need another 'project fix'... any news/progress?


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

Faster said:


> Tom... I need another 'project fix'... any news/progress?


I don't want to bore people.  But ok,...

Last weekend, I was installing the engine linkages and finally, the steering.

On sunday, laying down inside the starboard cockpit locker with my head and shoulders stuffed under the cockpit, I was holding the base plate of the binnacle with the turning pulleys attached, up with my fully outstretched left hand.

With my right hand - also fully outstretched and holding a tiny screw, I was trying to get it threaded into a tiny hole. And I couldn't see it (it's up inside), so I was attempting this,...by feel.

Tired, I realized this was an impossible task.










Exasperated, laying there in a heap, I spied a penciled message on the old center oak beam under the cockpit sole(I've never noticed it before). I couldn't read the message, so I took a pic with my phone.










The message read:

'Don't you hate this kind of job?'....

And then I could see another person (in another penciled hand), added his message, some time after. This guy wrote:

'Be happy with what god gave you. Consider it a challenge'....

'Hmmm', I thought to myself. I'm not religious, but I could relate to the second guys resolve. And the first guy was preaching to the choir (if I may borrow that phrase). I felt like I had 'company' down there, which perked me up and got me thinking.

"Hey wait a minute", I thought. "Maybe this is a clue". If I'm going to add my message to the beam, I can't do it from here. I'm in the wrong spot!

So,...out of the cockpit locker and into the bronze manhole over the propellor shaft. Put your legs on each side of the engine - shimmy forward and drop your head - shimmy aft under the cockpit sole - and look up.

Crikey! There's the message right in front of your face, and the binnacle comfortably over your head.

Hold the plate up with your left hand - start the screws with your right hand - and tighten it all down - just like that. Done.

I ended the day with 4200 kicking off under the binnacle and the final 3/4" plugs epoxied into the sole. This was the moment the new cockpit was ready for whatever the sea can give.










The cockpit is officially finished and I'm racing to do all the boat work a typical sailboat owner does in the spring. 
I'll be launching soon(next week) and will post a few pics then.


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## seaner97 (May 15, 2011)

Nice. My penciled hints are more direct ('find the 13mm ratcheting wrench, idiot!)


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Thanks Tom... gotta feel great to have that done!


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## copacabana (Oct 1, 2007)

Tom, lovely work indeed! What are you going to use to finish and/or maintain the wood in the cockpit now that it's done? Oil? Cetol? Varnish? Seawater washing? I can assure you that Ipê is a tough-wearing wood, but you can expect it to "silver" like teak.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

copacabana said:


> I can assure you that Ipê is a tough-wearing wood, but you can expect it to "silver" like teak.


That's my plan. Just let it weather. That was all that was required of the old one. And instead of brightwood around the well of the cockpit, this is all fiberglass and paint. That area takes a lot of abuse, I think this will stand up better, with less work. Thanks!


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

"Brass is green and teak is grey."


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

The great stowage space on this old boat makes it a wonderful coastal cruiser. There's ample space to stow all your stores, supplies and gear for a few days or a few weeks - with enough room left over to use the gear easily. Loaded up for a few weeks, it doesn't feel like a storage unit.

That's why I've been as excited about the cockpit lockers as the new cockpit itself. I removed an old icebox in one, reconfigured some panels for better access.

It's been fun to replace the broken ceiling slats with new cedar. As you can walk inside these, I added blocks to the backs of the slats between the glass ribs to strengthen them. Plus, they smell nice.










I've replaced more than half of the gear that was in the lockers last fall. Where did it go?










In removing the gear early spring(to demo the old cockpit), I hauled the stuff away in grocery bags. That got me thinking about utilizing the large volume of space under the side decks.

I through bolted rope hooks to the underside of some deck supports. Experimenting with tying the handle straps(to shorten them), I think these same cheap bags might be a good solution for light bulky items(pfds, lines, awnings). And for a new commodity onboard, recycling.










I find you can leave one handle off and the bags is an open topped receptacle. Might work for recycling and the small garbage bags we need to store. Easy to lift them off and take them to shore.










We'll be putting them to the test, soon.


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

Don't put those poor dogs into the cockpit lockers!! :eek (is that where you "dog" them down?)
Still waiting for a few pictures of the boat itself. :wink

P.S. Great idea with the bags. I might be able to do that too.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

The boat was launched, the spars stepped last week, and I haven't done much since.

I haven't even bent on the sails. I've just been enjoying the floating boat.

We've had a couple of heavy rain storms. The last few seasons, I would have been out pronto to bail gallons of bilge water, the old cockpit was leaking so badly. Now I can't even get the bilge pump to prime. That's very satisfying.

Opening the lockers, I can't find a drop of water inside. That's a treat!










I'm enjoying, sitting, walking on the lids, jumping here and there. The old cockpit had a few soft spots. In fact now I know it was soft everywhere. That's history. This cockpit is very, very strong and stiff, everywhere I walk.

Maybe I'll bend on the sails this weekend. This project is over. History. The cockpit is now just a part - a very, very satisfying part - of the old boat. Thanks for following this project.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Truly outstanding Tom. Bend those sails and enjoy the heck out of her. Congrats on a great project.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Minnewaska said:


> Truly outstanding Tom. Bend those sails and enjoy the heck out of her. Congrats on a great project.


Exactly!!

Congrats.. and thanks for documenting and sharing this remarkable job with us all.

Inspiring.


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## ultraclyde (Jun 4, 2014)

man, that thing is beautiful! Very cool idea with the bags. I've come to use them in all kinds of packing situations, they're light, durable, and cheap. Maybe one day I'll have a boat big enough to need them on the boat!


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

No, no, no, no … It can't be over yet! Please send a few pictures of the entire boat!! It's kind of like wanting to see the whole thing as a unit.

I'm sure that you will have many years of satisfaction from a job well done. Of the many projects that I've seen online, I've enjoyed this one so much. A real connection. Thanks for sharing

. ..:2 boat:


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## captjcook (Sep 27, 2008)

Tom,

I have to admit...I always looked forward to Monday mornings.... just to see the progress. I am glad for you that it is done and it certainly looks...well proper. Guess I better finish mine!

Fair Winds!

Jim


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## rbrasi (Mar 21, 2011)

Well done, sir. Now sail the hell out of her!


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## DreamerB (Feb 29, 2016)

You need another boat, with another cockpit to rebuild. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## elliowb (Jun 8, 2015)

Absolutely beautiful. Thanks for the great photos and the stunning work.


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## glarue (11 mo ago)

TomMaine said:


> The boat was launched, the spars stepped last week, and I haven't done much since.
> 
> I haven't even bent on the sails. I've just been enjoying the floating boat.
> 
> ...



I know this is a 6 year old thread, I'm in hopes that Tom can chime in and give any updates on his experience with Ipe.

Anything you would do differently?
Is Ipe wearing perfectly?
Anything you learned?

I've found this thread in my search for a Teak alternative and am hoping Ipe will fit the bill.
Such a beautiful job.


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## TomMaine (Dec 21, 2010)

glarue said:


> I know this is a 6 year old thread, I'm in hopes that Tom can chime in and give any updates on his experience with Ipe.
> 
> Anything you would do differently?
> Is Ipe wearing perfectly?
> ...


Hey! I haven't posted in a while and noticed this. The Ipe has been wearing like iron. No problems with the epoxy between the Ipe and the marine plywood. 

The one mistake I made was not rough sanding the Ipe 2X6" stock on the face, before resawing into the 1/2" x 1 1 1/2" strips. In a few spots, the caulking didn't adhere perfectly. Nothing major, I may have to touch up a seam or two, but I haven't yet. 

The Ipe may be slightly more prone to splinters, but no one has gotten a noticeable splinter. All in all, I'd use the Ipe again but there are other alternatives to teak I'm now aware of. I wouldn't use teak!

6 seasons of hard use, the new cockpit is for sure the best thing I ever did on this old boat.


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