# What sailing knife do you use?



## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

I must admit that I haven't been good about having a knife on me while sailing. This is something I need to rectify. I plan to get one and have it permanently attached to my harness/lifejacket.

Which knife do you use and how do you keep it at the ready?






MedSailor


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

One of these










in of these










with red lens mag lite


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

jackdale said:


> One of these
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice. I like that it glows in the dark.

Can you open the blade one handed?

Can you open the shackle key one handed?

Has anyone ever really needed a phid in a hurry??

MedSailor


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## Lake Superior Sailor (Aug 23, 2011)

Currey Deckhand , Chichester England . Got good steel & holds an edge! ......Dale


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I have a couple older versions of this knife, with serrated blades. Flicks open with one hand, with what they call the "blade launcher". It just gets the blade started, with a slight flick of the wrist, it locks open. I have one with and without the small screw drivers. They all have the caribeaner/bottle opener. I leave it clipped inside my front pocket.

I just used it Sunday to cut some line off a permanent fender. It went through like a hot knife through butter.

$35 to $40, so losing it wouldn't ruin me entire weekend, like most "sailing" knives.

Leatherman knives: c33T/c33Tx


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## celenoglu (Dec 13, 2008)

I use this one:










Every tool has to be alone. Knives are for cutting. Including other tools to the same handle might be an easy way to carry them but using them is not. You may need a screwdriver and a plier for the removal of a machine screw.

Knives on board are needed for cutting and generally in an emergency. This knife can be carried easily, you can open it with one hand, the blade is long enough to cut a rope in one strike. The blade locks when you open it.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

celenoglu said:


> .....Every tool has to be alone....l.


I would say this and the skeleton version of it are among the most popular I see on a sailors belt. I have one for when I'm doing chores, I don't like it for sailing personally. However, you can open either of the blades with one hand. It's just not as fast or easy as the one I showed above.

I find I use the screwdrivers very often. They are flat and don't make the knife much wider than the version I have without them.

Leatherman multi-tools: Wave


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## Blissopia (Jan 6, 2012)

I carry a Myerchin Safety Dive knife on my belt. The quality is awesome and it's flat profile means it doesn't get in the way.


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## Shortman (Feb 12, 2006)

Leatherman Wave - I use the pliers as much or more than the knife.


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## Rangernewell (Oct 23, 2010)

I have a Davis. Great all around knife. 100% stainless construction, durable.


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## H and E (Sep 11, 2011)

I bought what someone recommended that clips to your PFD. It has such a small hilt that I cut myself the first time I tried to use it. It is a Samish Stiletto Good idea but bad design. It will lay in the took kit unused.


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## garyguss (Oct 9, 2007)

I have a Davis also, use it all the time, its cheap and durable, if I lose it I wont cry


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

The Wichard knive does not flick open, nor do I want to.

I use the Marlin spike regularly to break knots that have seized. The shackle key is invaluable. 

I wear the pock-it pouch on my pfd, which I always wear. The knive is on a lanyard attached to the pfd. I have a wrist strap on the mag lite.

I am often tethered; a knife is mandatory.


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## JimMcGee (Jun 23, 2005)

Swiss Army Mariner (also sold as the Helmsman). Costs $30 on Amazon a little more at West.

Mine lives in the front pocket of my sailing shorts.


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## CLucas (Feb 10, 2007)

Sailing, I carry a Myerchin Offshore Folder -- serrated blade cuts through anything. Nice size -- substantial enough for any job, but not too big. Great workmanship.










Work days on the boat, I carry my Leatherman Wave.


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## cb32863 (Oct 5, 2009)

Spyderco C45SBK Rescue 79 mm


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## TQA (Apr 4, 2009)

Don't carry a knife on a regular basis. But I have available a Leatherman tool and if I am attending something that needs fixing that is likely to be with me. But if I need to cut something thre is a box cutter with a new blade available but if it is a serious job like a rope around the prop the bread knife with it's serrated edge is the weapon of choice. 

Da** fishpots with transparent coke bottle floats set sub surface.

BUT there has been a deal of talk recently about clipping on when out of the cockpit. I rarely bother with my safety harness and when I do I am usually clipped on in such a way as to be held on the boat if I fell. However the stories about people being recovered drowned because they were dragged along has made me think that perhaps I should have a cutaway knife of the type the parachutists use tied to the harness.


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## Lflowers230 (Jan 7, 2012)

The same Case XX that I carried through a few wars and then several years working on Tow Boats.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

jackdale said:


> The Wichard knive does not flick open, nor do I want to.
> 
> *I use the Marlin spike regularly to break knots that have seized. * The shackle key is invaluable.
> 
> ...


Ahhhh I get it. I always wondered why they would have a marlinspike on an "ermergency knife". I guess I was thinking it was for splicing, and I couldn't imagine needing to splice something STAT. That's what knots are for.

Here is what I want in a knife, in order:

1: Must be able to be easily carried and EASILY opened with a cold wet half-frozen hand.

2: Must be able to cut through rope quicly and easily.

3: Should thrive on abuse. Especially repeated salt water immersions without rinsing. (I don't baby my tools)

4: Shouldn't be easy to cut oneself with wet slippery hands when using the knife.

5: Shouldn't cost too much.

6: A shackle key would be a plus.

I'm thinking that if they meet #2 Jackdale's Wichard or the Spiderco Rescue might fit the bill nicely. Though the Spiderco does better in the "what word would I say when I drop it overboard" contest than the Wichard.

MedSailor


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

The Wichard blade locks open and it can be finicky to get closed.

Other than that it seems to meet most of MedSailor's criteria.

The lanyard prevents it from going overboard, unless I do so.


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## JonEisberg (Dec 3, 2010)

A sailor's choice of a knife should take into consideration what sort of cordage you have on your boat... For anyone with a fair amount of hi-tech rope aboard, halyards or sheets with spectra/Dyneema cores, and whatnot, this knife from Boye is the way to go... It cuts that stuff like no other rigging knife I've seen...

Plus, it's the only rigging knife I've ever owned which has never shown the slightest hint of rust... Beautifully designed, fits in the hand very nicely, easy to open with one hand, etc... All the things a sailor could want in a knife...

You sure don't want to lose it over the side, however... These things are pretty pricey - although I now see he's offering "seconds" with slight cosmetic imperfections, without the marlinspike, for a bit over $100...

Again, for those sailing on a boat with a lot of hi-tech line, well worth it, IMHO... Knives are one of those things that some people are very particular about, and for those who appreciate a beautifully crafted knife as a Work of Art, this one definitely fits the bill...

http://boyeknives.com/


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

JohnEisberg,

Nice looking tool. How is it for opening one handed, say, compared to a spyderco?

MedSailor


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## Smart Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

A good work-around knife -- also with one-handed opening.

A bit bulky and heavy for carrying in your pocket -- use on your belt.

Alinghi Yachtsman Ranger 16310 Wenger Swiss Army Knife


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

JonEisberg said:


> A sailor's choice of a knife should take into consideration what sort of cordage you have on your boat... For anyone with a fair amount of hi-tech rope aboard, halyards or sheets with spectra/Dyneema cores, and whatnot, this knife from Boye is the way to go... It cuts that stuff like no other rigging knife I've seen...


I have that exact knife. The blade is great and it has held up over a whole bunch of years. The spike on the other hand was grossly inadequate. The point broke off about 3/16" just trying to break a knot.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I will critique my original recommendation in your quote........



MedSailor said:


> 1: Must be able to be easily carried and EASILY opened with a cold wet half-frozen hand.
> 
> Very easy. I like carrying an emergency knife clipped to my front pocket, with the knife in the pocket and the clip on the outside. Several others above will require dexterity to push the blade around with your thumb. The leatherman has a tab for your forefinger and a quick flip. Done. It's so fast and easy, people think it has a spring.
> 
> ...


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## CarbonSink62 (Sep 29, 2011)

I've gotten this far with the regular Buck lockblade in a belt sheath, but this year I'll be on the ocean. My son got me a mountain climbers knife to clip to my PFD. It has a blunt tip (but good for prying) serrated on one edge, smooth on the other. It has one opening to open O2 cylinders and one to open bottles. It clips into its scabbard and pops out when both sides are squeezed.

I'll find the model and post a pic later; I'll see how well it works pretty soon (looking out the window).


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## KIVALO (Nov 2, 2011)

I carry the exact same Myercin knife, smooth blade. I LOVE IT! I also have the smaller all stainless with the 1/2 serrated but I truly hate most serrated blades and this is no different, it catches on everything I try and cut through and sharpening doesn't help much or for very long. Plus sharpening a smooth blade is much easier as opposed to a serrated edge. I also have a SOG Multi Tool for use when I need pliers and the like.



CLucas said:


> Sailing, I carry a Myerchin Offshore Folder -- serrated blade cuts through anything. Nice size -- substantial enough for any job, but not too big. Great workmanship.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

While sailing, a whitewater PFD knife: immediately releasable, good grip, very sharp serrated, sturdy blade. Gerber makes a plastic handle knife for around $40. I have an older all metal model. IMO, anything you need to unfold will likely stay folded if needed in a hurry. Just imagine trying to find and unfold a knife as that anchor rode is pulling you over. Commercial fishermen often use an ankle sheath in case they get hauled over the side, tangled in gear. It is quicker to find the handle on your ankle. If being dragged under, you have only a couple of seconds before being dragged too far under for it to make any difference as far as the outcome. Those "Leatherman" knives are very useful. I have one with at least a hundred applications but it is useless as an emergency knife.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

smurphny said:


> While sailing, a whitewater PFD knife: immediately releasable, good grip, very sharp serrated, sturdy blade. Gerber makes a plastic handle knife for around $40. I have an older all metal model. IMO, anything you need to unfold will likely stay folded if needed in a hurry. Just imagine trying to find and unfold a knife as that anchor rode is pulling you over. Commercial fishermen often use an ankle sheath in case they get hauled over the side, tangled in gear. It is quicker to find the handle on your ankle. If being dragged under, you have only a couple of seconds before being dragged too far under for it to make any difference as far as the outcome. Those "Leatherman" knives are very useful. I have one with at least a hundred applications but it is useless as an emergency knife.


I'm not sure any knife is good for cutting yourself free from a tether. Nothing i see above is going to be opened while you are being drageed behind a boat. For cutting the tether, I have a razar sharp S-cutter on a lanyard inside the PFD. The blade is covered in wax, which would slice through when pulled against the line. Nothing to open and it sits inches from the tether itself.

You must be referring to the Letherman multi-tool, which I agree is not good for emergencies. However, the Leaherman knife is great.


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## JoeDiver (Feb 2, 2011)

I don't carry a knife, but I do carry a gun. I find the .380 hydrashock hollow points will blast a knot out of a rope quickly. A well placed shot or two will cut the line as needed. FMJ ball rounds will open any shackle very quickly. Gripped by the slide, the butt makes a good hammer. If your hands are cold, fire off a clip then put it in your pocket to warm your fingers. It's a great tool for fishing as well, as long as the fish are near the surface.

Full Combat Sailing can be very rewarding.


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## smurphny (Feb 20, 2009)

Minnewaska said:


> I'm not sure any knife is good for cutting yourself free from a tether. Nothing i see above is going to be opened while you are being drageed behind a boat. For cutting the tether, I have a razar sharp S-cutter on a lanyard inside the PFD. The blade is covered in wax, which would slice through when pulled against the line. Nothing to open and it sits inches from the tether itself.
> 
> You must be referring to the Letherman multi-tool, which I agree is not good for emergencies. However, the Leaherman knife is great.


Some sort of s cutter sounds like a good idea for tethers although the kayak knife is designed specifically to cut through synthetic line in river rescue. It'll go through a tether or 3/4" double braid lickety split.


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## downeast450 (Jan 16, 2008)

celenoglu said:


> I use this one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have collected a few over the years. I was given one of these for Christmas and I haven't used it aboard yet. It is a great knife. Its one handed facility is the best of any knife I have.

Down


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

Any 'sheath knife' that can be honed to a razor sharp edge and will keep that 'edge' without having to continually sharpen and 'strop'. I have 'tools' for other stuff ... gouges, scrapers, screwdrivers, scissors, corkscrews, saws, and nose hair extractors, etc. 

When you NEED a knife, you want a 'sharp' one and one where blade wont 'fold' onto your fingers. :-o


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

Assuming the knife is for safety (cutting yourself free of a tether or rigging, fo exanple), there are 3 tests it should pass that many of the sugestions do not:

1. No point. The tip should be relatively blunt so that stabbing yourself is difficult.
2. Can you retrieve it from the holster of pocket with one hand, in the dark, in a panic in the surf. Seriously, most of the belt holsters would result in the knife being on the bottom of the ocean. A lanyard may be best. I favor a deep pocket as a compromise.
3. Can it be retrieved when the PFD is inflated. No kidding, with some inflatables you might be surprised.

On side note, Practical Sailor just reported that some inflatable PFDs/harness combos block access to the release on the harness snapshackle when inflated. Sounds like a shamfull lack of realworld testing. I hope you are doing real MOBs with real people in the water with the equipment you really use (we do). Otherwise, it's no plan at all and the safety talk is lip service.


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## GeorgeB (Dec 30, 2004)

My favorite is a Myerchin with serrated blade, marlin spike and a shackle key built into the blade. Fortunately, most of my shackles have mousing holes in the pin so I can use the marlin spike. I can also use it to trip my Tylaska shackles too. Unfortunately, the serrated blade can get dull cutting Kevlar and Amsteel pretty quickly so I keep a ceramic blade knife down in the Nav Station.

A long, long time ago I used to keep my knife in my pocket but not anymore. The one time I really needed it, it was in my pocket under my bibs which were under a sweater under a jacket that was under a life vest. I could not dig it out in time. I now wear the knife on a detachable lanyard around my neck. Never had an access problem since.

I’m a little bit nervous about something sharp in close proximity to something inflatable. I’d rather have it around my neck than clipped to my vest. My tether has a quick disconnect shackle at the vest end so I don’t need to cut the line.


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

GeorgeB said:


> My tether has a quick disconnect shackle at the vest end so I don't need to cut the line.


There was a recall of tethers with quick releases that did not operate properly. I can also see how the release could get jammed in a D ring.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Thanks for all the opinions and experience so far. One major thing I need to reconcile is fixed vs folder. In the fixed category it looks like rafting PFD knives and SCUBA BCD knives are contenders.

If I go for a folder it'll be the Boyd knife or the Wichard. I like the idea that the Boyd knife will never rust and practical sailor really liked it, but I wouldn't want the marlinspike breaking off on a knife that costs that much.....

Check this out, Practical Sailor reviewed sailing knives:
Article here:http://boyeknives.com/images/review.pdf

An independent and very detailed review (thesis!) of knives here:
http://www.franciscoresearch.com/images/Nautical_Knife_Market.pdf

MedSailor


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Best selection of sailing knives I've seen yet is here:APS - Knives


































MedSailor


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## Yamsailor (Jun 7, 2006)

I use the Boye Knife. It is the best sailing knife I have ever owned.

Folding Boat Knives | Rigging & Safety Knife | Utility Blade


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Oddly enough I had a coupe of extra small good Solingen steel kitchen knives, so I made a small belt sheath for a paring knife, drilled a hole in the handle for an elastic wrist lanyard, and that's my sailing knife. Use in the galley is forbidden because I keep the blade mercilessly sharp. Works with one hand, either hand, and holds an edge that will part any taut line without pushing on it at all.

And it was "free", just had to take it out of the draw.

Of course in a true emergency, I could always dine with it.<G>


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## mstern (May 26, 2002)

I have two: one is a folding knife from West Marine. It is stainless and has a sheep's foot blade that is half serrated, half straight edge, a marlinspike (which has trouble locking open), and a shackle key. I keep it on a lanyard that I wear around my neck when working at the mast, or in my pocket. I forget the price, but I know it was under $20. My second knife is a folding pointed serrated blade knife that opens easily with one hand and locks. The handle is plastic with a fake bone insert with a really cheesy "scrimshaw" carving of a buck. The handle also has a belt clip attached to it. I generally keep this knife clipped to my pocket (on the inside). This knife will cut through anything. I got it for $5 at a flea market.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

leatherman Wave for inshore stuff, lots of good tools. I carry it offshore as a tool.

On my PFD I have this:








Last thing I want to do when I need a knife NOW, is open the blade. Also, a quality straight blade is always stronger than a folder. Put some T9 on it or a dab of oil on a cloth and wipe it down. 316 stainless won't hold an edge very long. Look for a knife with a high carbon content. It will rust a little, but preventative maintenance should solve that issue.


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## LinekinBayCD (Oct 19, 2009)

JimMcGee said:


> Swiss Army Mariner (also sold as the Helmsman). Costs $30 on Amazon a little more at West.
> 
> Mine lives in the front pocket of my sailing shorts.


It is great not only on the boat but around the house for weekend chores. After the blade the tool most used is probably the bottle opener, then the screw drivers.


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## Landgull (Dec 30, 2011)

For everything I do in and around salt water, I love anything Spyderco makes in their H1 steel. It takes a fantastic edge, it never rusts, it's simple, and not expensive. And I'm a "knife geek."

I've carried one in the pocket of my lifeguard shorts, and given it no maintenance for a year now. Not a speck of rust on it. They're worth the price.


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## CaptainForce (Jan 1, 2006)

I've had a Buck 315 for the past 25 years or so. I see many good options above, but I can't understand having knives without a marlinspike. I definitely need the spike more often than the blade. The blade is usually a secondary choice made when I need to give up on a better option!


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

CaptainForce said:


> I've had a Buck 315 for the past 25 years or so. I see many good options above, but I can't understand to knives without a marlinspike. I definitely need the spike more often than the blade. The blade is usually a secondary choice made when I need to give up on a better option!


I, on the other hand, have been messing about in boats for 11 years now and never even knew that the marlinspike was for undoing seized knots. I thought it was for splicing, which seemed strange to me. Who needs to splice in a hurry....

Now that I know the spike is for getting stuck knots un-stuck I now want one at the ready at all times. Man have I been missing out.....

MedSailor


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## CaptainForce (Jan 1, 2006)

.......or for pryiing a fouled line that's overwrapped on a winch. There's another urgent need for the marlinspike.


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## MastUndSchotbruch (Nov 26, 2010)

Landgull said:


> For everything I do in and around salt water, I love anything Spyderco makes in their H1 steel. It takes a fantastic edge, it never rusts, it's simple, and not expensive. And I'm a "knife geek."
> 
> I've carried one in the pocket of my lifeguard shorts, and given it no maintenance for a year now. Not a speck of rust on it. They're worth the price.


But they don't have a model with a marlinspike, as far as I ca tell. Pity.


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## pdqaltair (Nov 14, 2008)

CaptainForce said:


> .......or for pryiing a fouled line that's overwrapped on a winch. There's another urgent need for the marlinspike.


IMHO, if you can't clear the override by pulling vertically, you need to relieve the pressure with a rolling hitch.

Using a marlinspike is inviting line and finger damage. The wrong tool for the job and not on my boat. I've seen a marlin spike missused for many things, rather like hammers and screwdrivers.


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## Trinkka (Jul 5, 2011)

I keep a Gerber Multi Tool with its case attached to my belt at all times. Most of the time I only need pliers and this is where this tool comes in very handy, but if I need a knife, a serrated blade, file, or even assorted screw drivers, this handy tool has them all.


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## Patient (Jan 7, 2009)

MastUndSchotbruch said:


> But they don't have a model with a marlinspike, as far as I ca tell. Pity.


Thats the problem I found. There is nothing that is a mixture of diving knife with Marlin Spike. I am excluding multi-tools in my sweeping generalization of course, but it has to be sheathed with a durable lanyard, ready to use at a moments notice to count in my book as useful. I am too clumsy to pick through a multitool when hell breaks loose.

I wish someone made a serrated chisel head diving knife with a spike included. Something I could swim with and hang on the helm ready for action.


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## CaptainForce (Jan 1, 2006)

pdqaltair said:


> IMHO, if you can't clear the override by pulling vertically, you need to relieve the pressure with a rolling hitch.
> 
> Using a marlinspike is inviting line and finger damage. The wrong tool for the job and not on my boat. I've seen a marlin spike missused for many things, rather like hammers and screwdrivers.


There is the tool and the manner in which it is used. Certainly one can misuse a tool in a manner that causes risk; however, a marlinspike can be safely used to roll a tensioned line over another well within the design of the tool. A capable person can do this safely and without damage to the line. I do agree that use by someone who does not foresee the consequences of their actions can be a problem. A wise person can adapt tools for many uses. Anyone without vision and a knowledge of physics must stick to the designated instructions. Take care and joy, Aythya crew


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

pdqaltair said:


> IMHO, if you can't clear the override by pulling vertically, you need to relieve the pressure with a rolling hitch.
> 
> Using a marlinspike is inviting line and finger damage. The wrong tool for the job and not on my boat. I've seen a marlin spike missused for many things, rather like hammers and screwdrivers.


Exactly.

The rolling hitch is safer and faster .


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## Trinkka (Jul 5, 2011)

jackdale said:


> Exactly.
> 
> The rolling hitch is safer and faster .


I agree with you on this. I use what is known as a "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" which is a lot different than any that I've seen on knot sites and in knot books. I do a lot of three strand rope splicing for my fellow YC members and I very seldom ever need a Marlin Spike unless the lays were made up too tight from the factory.


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## JoeDiver (Feb 2, 2011)

JimMcGee said:


> Swiss Army Mariner (also sold as the Helmsman). Costs $30 on Amazon a little more at West.
> 
> Mine lives in the front pocket of my sailing shorts.


I have the "Skipper" version....same thing but with pliers and a corkscrew.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Trinkka said:


> I agree with you on this. I use what is known as a "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" which is a lot different than any that I've seen on knot sites and in knot books. I do a lot of three strand rope splicing for my fellow YC members and I very seldom ever need a Marlin Spike unless the lays were made up too tight from the factory.


That looks exotic. For what uses is it superior to a regular rolling hitch or prussic knot?

MedSailor


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Patient said:


> Thats the problem I found. There is nothing that is a mixture of diving knife with Marlin Spike. I am excluding multi-tools in my sweeping generalization of course, but it has to be sheathed with a durable lanyard, ready to use at a moments notice to count in my book as useful. I am too clumsy to pick through a multitool when hell breaks loose.
> 
> I wish someone made a serrated chisel head diving knife with a spike included. Something I could swim with and hang on the helm ready for action.


Actually that does sound ideal. A diving sheath knife with a marlinspike. Every consider making one? You could just remove the spike from a folding knife. Drill a hole in the handle of your favorite dive knife and bolt it on. Adjust tension with a nylock washer, add a little loc-tite and there you go. The spike wouldn't be locking, but you could achieve your goal for the price of your dive knife, a cheap folder (with spike) and some lock-tite.

MedSailor


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## Trinkka (Jul 5, 2011)

MedSailor said:


> That looks exotic. For what uses is it superior to a regular rolling hitch or prussic knot?
> 
> MedSailor


Actually it's a common hitch that every power company lineman has used on a daily basis for many years. 
I was a lineman for a town electric department for 32 years and this hitch was one of the first hitches the line foreman taught me when I started. We just called it the "Rolling Hitch" and everyone I worked with used it. I couldn't tell you if it's superior to the hitch in the knot books of the same name, but this is the only one of it's kind that I knew of and used on a daily basis. It's so simple to tie that you could almost tie it with one hand.
I can remember standing on my hooks on a 35' pole leaning out over a six pin cross arm using this hitch to let a wire down with a guy on the ground holding the line after I cut the wire. 
I'm right handed and I would merely hold the rope on the top of the wire with my left hand with about 3' of standing part, I'd wrap the rope around the wire CCW with six wraps away from me, and bring it back toward me between the wire and standing part of the first wrap and tie two half hitches at the end of the six wraps. I don't think there's anything easier than that.

One day I tied a 3/8" line around one of my lolly columns in my cellar with this hitch and added a Bowline to the end of the line about 6" of the floor and stepped into the loop and the hitch never slipped.
I've also taken a 3/16" braid line and tied the hitch to my 1/8" back stay with a single sheave connected to it to hoist my shower bag up, and it held.

I sent this hitch to Alan Grogono Animated Knots by Grog | How to Tie Knots | Fishing, Boating, Climbing, Scouting, Search and Rescue, Household, Decorative, Rope Care, last month along with a bend called the "Benson Bend". Whether he'll put them on his web site, I don't really know. He seemed interested when he emailed me back a reply. 
I use the "Benson Bend" quite a lot on my boat, and so far I've only seen it in the "Sailmaker's Apprentice" by Brion Toss. I've yet to find it anywhere else.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

Minnewaska said:


> I have a couple older versions of this knife, with serrated blades. Flicks open with one hand, with what they call the "blade launcher". It just gets the blade started, with a slight flick of the wrist, it locks open. I have one with and without the small screw drivers. They all have the caribeaner/bottle opener. I leave it clipped inside my front pocket.
> 
> I just used it Sunday to cut some line off a permanent fender. It went through like a hot knife through butter.
> 
> ...


I have one, and it is the sharpest knife I have ever owned, including my ceramic knives. Holds it's edge really long as well, I carry it everywhere I go.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

The buck knife, yachtsman... 

Don't carry it as much as I should. Will need to remedy that.


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## drgamble (Oct 28, 2008)

I have a Myerchin Titanium... it wasn't my original choice and was sent to me by Myerchin as a replacement for their "Light" knife that had a built in push light. My locking mechanism broke within 1 year; the knife was hardly ever used. I sent it into Myerchin under warranty and didn't hear anything back from them. I called them 2 weeks after it was sent and they stated they couldn't locate my knife. After several calls and hearing this repeated response I'm glad I had my shipping/tracking receipt - after providing this to them they told me they no longer had my prior style of knife so they sent me the Titanium instead. All in all it took 3 months from the time I sent in my knife for warranty until I received a replacement. 

Overall the knife looks and feels good; I'm still a little suspect on quality. I've seen other reviews complaining about problems with the warranted locking mechanism (when it's broke it allows the knife to "float" about half an inch outside of it's casing, exposing the sharp tip). These guys are a very small operation out of CA and the way my warranty work was mishandled was concerning. Absent getting the replacement I'm not sure I would purchase again.


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## Rozz (Jun 30, 2011)

SOG trident and my MKIII navy diver... love them, had them for years

although issued to me so was free, i might be impartial


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## fryewe (Dec 4, 2004)

After searching the web for a bit last year looking for the perfect sailing knife to carry on my belt while underway(my criteria, of course)...non-folding so I don't have to open it to use it, carbon steel so I can keep it sharp enough to slash through a 5/8 line in a flash, with a blunt end on the blade to prevent inadvertent puncturing of important things and body parts, and the heft to sit in a belt pouch without falling out...I bought a good used butcher knife on ebay for eight dollars, broke the blade at six inches, filed the broken end to round the sharp points at the break, sealed the handle with Deks Olje, and sharpened it to a fine edge. It's a great knife...heavy, sharp, and ready for use. 

For marlinspike and other tools that are not normally needed in an emergency, I go to the toolbox.


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## brokesailor (Jan 12, 2008)

ZZgata: How do you attach it to the PFD? I suppose you sew it to the webbing? Where on the PFD?


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I lash it to the harness on my pfd and put a lanyard/shock cord on the handle of the knife. I lash it horizontally, which works well for me. The holes in the sheath make it easy to attach it where you want.


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## klem (Oct 16, 2009)

Similar to fryewe, I bought a boning knife and cut if down. The marlinspike I turned on a lathe. For a sheath, I just sewed on up out of leather. Other than needing to make a new sheath after ~6 years of wearing it 120 days/year, it hasn't needed anything. I have probably sharpened it 50 times at this point.

I also carry a leatherman wave for those simple projects where I don't want to bother going and getting out the toolbox. There isn't a lanyard on it because I never really use it in situations where it should have one.


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## InkyMatt (Apr 9, 2011)

I have a Myerchin Lightknife. The marlinspike isn't a spike exactly, but a slim hook that you can push into a knot, hook below the loop holding it tight, and remove it pretty quickly. The serrated blade cuts nicely, but the tip is pointed and might hole anything inflatable (which hasn't been an issue for me yet).

It's got a 18" lanyard attached to a small carabiner that i clip to a belt loop. The knife is in my pocket, easily retrieveable with one hand, and won't go for a swim.


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## CarbonSink62 (Sep 29, 2011)

I found a link to the knife my son bought for me.

It is an 'NRS Co-Pilot Knife':

NRS Co-Pilot Knife

Not sure how I'll attach it to my PFD.


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## johnnyandjebus (Sep 15, 2009)

Carbon

Thanks for the post, I have read thru several knife threads hoping to find something that appeals to me. I think I have found it thru your post. Have you owned it long enough to decide how well it keeps an edge?


Non-folding, compact and blunt tip is what I am looking for if any others have suggestions.

John


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## klem (Oct 16, 2009)

I have the NRS Co-Pilot on my pfd for whitewater kayaking and it works well for that. It does a decent job of cutting but doesn't cut really small diameter stuff very easily since it just gets hung up in the serrated part. Luckily in that sport, you use your knife so infrequently (well expect for making pb&j) that I have no idea how well it holds an edge.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

CarbonSink62 said:


> I found a link to the knife my son bought for me.
> 
> It is an 'NRS Co-Pilot Knife':
> 
> ...


I was reading about this knife extensively yesterday. It comes with an attachment rig for attaching to a PFD lash tab (that black square thingy). Several reviews I read say that once it's on the lash tab the problem is that you can never get it off! One reviewer was mad at NRS for this because now he has to buy a second knife for backpacking since he can't get the sheath off his PFD.










MedSailor


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

After much consideration I have decided on a knife. Thank you to all who contributed advice. I had no idea there were so many good knifes out there for the purpose!

Honorable mention goes to the Boyd knife. #1 with Practial sailor, made of a metal that will never rust and looks to be a life-long tool.

Honorable mention also goes to the Wichard entries, both the model posted by Jackdale (Post#2) and the "one hand" model which does look easy to open with one hand.

In the end I decided that the REAL need/intended use for the knife would be to cut something free in an emergency. To that end I decided that even though there are some great folders out there that I would go with a fixed blade knife. If I'm trapped by my tether hanging over the boat side while wearing my bulky helmsman gloves, or if my foot is in a loop of anchor line going overboard I can't be sure I'll correctly fumble the folder out. The rest of the features, like marlinspike and shackle key, I'll have to live without on this tool in order to guarantee it'll work when needed..

In fact, I never even knew what a marlin spike was before this thread, so I think I can continue to get by without one at hand. I may yet get a Myerchin P300 which has the marlinspike and pliers on it as a tool, but not for emergency use.

Since I was after a fixed knife that I could be sure I'd get to, and would work in an emergency, I found that kayaking knifes and scuba knives offered the best selection. There are many good options that are meant for easy access, even with gloves on (especially scuba knives), and that don't rust.

This is the knife I chose. Wenoka "Squeeze" Lock Titanium Knife, Tanto Tip It's got a positive locking sheath with quick access (even with gloves). 4.7 out of 5 from 54 reviews. It's blunt tipped with a sharp regular side, a serrated side, and a line-cutter notch. It's 100% titanium (not just the handle) so it's light, will hold an edge and will never rust. $53 shipped. No shackle key or malinspike, but looks like a trusty tool that'll be accessable and will work if you *NEED* it. I'll review it here when I get it and after I've used it a bit.









MedSailor

PS In close second was the NRS pilot or copilot knife. They had mixed reviews though on their retention system. Some said it had metal springs that rusted and others lost their knives. Also their titanium version is $120. I bet that the oxygen wrench on the NRS knife would make a decent shackle key though...

PPS Here is another titanium knife like the one I chose. Cheaper, smaller, and still highly rated. Less than $40 shipped and it's 100% titanium!http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/BLRKMT.html?&&#pr-header-BLRKMT


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Med, I dive knife's hook is really designed for fishing line. I thought titanium alloy didn't hold an edge very well either. Titanium coated is okay.


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## CarbonSink62 (Sep 29, 2011)

johnnyandjebus said:


> Carbon, Thanks for the post... Have you owned it long enough to decide how well it keeps an edge?


You're quite welcome. I'm pleased that my son was able to find it for me; he did good. 

No. I haven't even used it yet.



johnnyandjebus said:


> Non-folding, compact and blunt tip is what I am looking for if any others have suggestions.


That was my criteria as well. Also quick access, I don't want to have to stand up on the foredeck to get it out of my pocket.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Minnewaska said:


> Med, I dive knife's hook is really designed for fishing line. I thought titanium alloy didn't hold an edge very well either. Titanium coated is okay.


Mini,

Thanks for this. I did some homework and apparently there are several titanium alloys being used. The best alloy for knife sharpness/hardness is a beta alloy which is still 100% corrosion resistant. Beta alloy is what's used in the Winoka knife. Some knife fanatics over on knife/blade forums seem to approve of the titanium alloy used in this knife. They also report that it appears the knife is made in Japan (a definite plus). If it's good enough for them, it's more than good enough for me since I'm not a knife nut. Also, since I'm not prone to babying my tools, I figure a corrosion free knife is more likely to be a sharp knife for me.

I'll take a look at the hook when I get it. Even if it's a bit small for rope, one full side of the blade is serrated which should work well for rope.

I ordered the knife today and will post a review once I have played with it for a while.

MedSailor

From knifeforums.com:
"Welcome to KF

AFAIK Wenoka is the name for a range of knives, it is not the name of the company. The name may have been derived/corrupted from one of the lesser known Native American tribes since most of the more popular names (Apache, Commanche, Sioux.....) have already been taken. Not sure where they lived except it was almost certainly north of Mexico and south of Canada

Actual company is Deep See, which is parto of the Aqual Lung Group

Deep See: Part of the Aqua Lung Family of Brands

Their Ti range uses beta-Titanium, which is the most advanced Ti that's available commercially."


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## DesertPirate (Mar 2, 2011)

I use a Myerchin Offshore Rigging Knife with a wooden handle. Why? It is beautifully made, it has a fid, a small shackle key, and my girlfriend gave it to me for my birthday. It appears to keep an edge. I did remove the belt clip so it's more comfortable in my hand. It's the kind of knife to use and pass down to your children.


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## Smart Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

I finally settled on the knife for me.

SOG TWITCH II

I've been looking for a compact and slender pocket knife (one handed opening) that will primarily serve in an emergency (worst fear is probably No. 1 with everyone - falling overboard caught in a line).

Compact and slender with 2.68" blade. Absolutely one-handed (spring loaded) opening. As lightning fast as a switch-blade. Hard anodized-aluminum handle and AUS-8 stainless steel cryogenically heat-treated blade for a razor sharp edge. If it ever needs sharpening, it'll take to a stone very nicely.










Here is the spec page -- be sure and watch the short video

SOG Twitch II. SOG Twitch 2 Folding Knife From SOG Specialty Knives & Tools


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## Jgbrown (Mar 26, 2012)

JonEisberg said:


> A sailor's choice of a knife should take into consideration what sort of cordage you have on your boat... For anyone with a fair amount of hi-tech rope aboard, halyards or sheets with spectra/Dyneema cores, and whatnot, this knife from Boye is the way to go... It cuts that stuff like no other rigging knife I've seen...
> 
> Plus, it's the only rigging knife I've ever owned which has never shown the slightest hint of rust... Beautifully designed, fits in the hand very nicely, easy to open with one hand, etc... All the things a sailor could want in a knife...
> 
> ...


Part of the reason these knives are so good on tough materials is that they effectively have mini serrations. Fancy names aside, the metal used is basically microscopic carbide teeth in a softer metal, kind of like a miniature saw. Exactly what you need for cutting incredibly tough fibers. These microscopic teeth are what create the slicing effect, the scallops help with the action of the blade drawing it by varying the angle the edge hits the rope at. A very neat technology, basically a cheaper consumer level version of Stellite/Talonite steels. 
Rob Simmonich was the main guy behind Talonite, so it's become increasingly harder to find unless you know someone who stockpiled a bit while he was alive.
I think Strider might still make some Stellite blades, but like most things however there is a trade off.

These types of steels should be a dedicated use knife only, the edges are very soft. They require a bit of a different sharpening technique to keep that slicing edge. 
Not a good food prep or general use knife, for example they are just about useless in a push cut(like carving wood or peeling potatoes).


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

If your primary reason for having a knife is to cut the tether after falling overboard, I highly doubt a one handed folding knife will do anyone any good at all. Have you ever been pulled out of the water onto water skis? The force of the water is enormous. When being dragged behind a sailboat, even doing only 5 or 6 knots, just the presence of mind to turn over on your back so you won't drown may be a feat. I have one of these attached to my pfd/harness for cutting the tether........

Amazon.com: Spinlock S-Cutter Safety Knife: Sports & [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@31pogek1AzL

I also carry a one handed opening blade clipped inside my front pocket. That is to allow me to cut my other hand free if it gets caught in a line or winch. Ouch, hard to even think of it.


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## Smart Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

Minnewaska said:


> Amazon.com: Spinlock S-Cutter Safety Knife: Sports & Outdoors


I can't visualize how that thing works -- is there a video somewhere?


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Smart Pig said:


> I can't visualize how that thing works -- is there a video somewhere?


I don't know of one, but try to google around. The green wax part is soft and covers a razor sharp hook blade. The rest is what you hold onto. You put the wax hook over the tether and pull. Easy peasy.


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## Smart Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

Minnewaska said:


> I don't know of one, but try to google around. The green wax part is soft and covers a razor sharp hook blade. The rest is what you hold onto. You put the wax hook over the tether and pull. Easy peasy.


Ok good -- I have a picture in my mind now, thanks. The only issue as you describe is that I don't use a tether the boats I race (Scots, Sonars, etc.). If I were to get caught in a line, it would be around the ankle.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Smart Pig said:


> Ok good -- I have a picture in my mind now, thanks. The only issue as you describe is that I don't use a tether the boats I race (Scots, Sonars, etc.). If I were to get caught in a line, it would be around the ankle.


Lazy boom reefing lines make great nooses during a gybe.

The foredeck is a place where guys get caught up in stuff. 

Recently read of a sailor who was lifted off the deck by a spinnaker guy that caught his lifejacket/harness. He was able to cut himself free.

A fellow racer used his knife to cut a leech line that snagged on the mast during a tack and put us in danger of a collision. (it was a folder btw).

Miniwaska, thanks for the visual of using your left hand to free your right from the meat-grinding winch..... uke

MedSailor


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## Jgbrown (Mar 26, 2012)

MedSailor said:


> After much consideration I have decided on a knife.
> 
> MedSailor


I had the steel version of that same knife. I would stay away from TI knives for an oh **** knife. Ti is great for not rusting, doesn't hold an edge or cut all that well in a hurry.
The blades are short and the serations are wrong. It is almost the fixed blade version of a multi-tool(doing several things at once, none as well as a dedicated blade).

If it's only for the use you've outlined I would go with a good modern steel(some of the newer new powdered steels come to mind) with a longer scallopped serration and thin blade. Blunted round tip, fixed blade, single type . For dive knives those are fine, the hook is a benefit, I used mine to find and trap fishing line I couldn't see to cut(tangled up on my regulator behind my head. Thick is great for prying. In a large rope tangled situation where time mattered I would never trust it. The sharp portion is too short, the handle is too skinny. The sheath doesn't retain well enough on it's own, and hangs on too well when you want the knife. Fine if you can just swim down and dig it out of the mud and go back to whatever you are messing about with. Not fine if you're trying to cut yourself free in a hurry.

I would stick exclusively to river rescue type knives, or sailing knives.

EDIT: For example the Emerson La Griffe, good retention, small profile, finger hole helps to index it. There is always the debate of whether you should have a knife tethered or not, propenents say yes because losing it when tangled isn't going to help, those against it say it's one more thing to tangle and if you can't reach the problem you're up the creek, or worse if it falls out of the sheath and you get bitten by it while you're flailing around.

http://www.emersonknives.com/ekLaGriffe_WWR_SFS.php

CRKT etc curved river knives are a cheaper version, but IMO the Emerson knives are better. Ernie Emerson is a really solid guy, though I would hate to lose one of his customs over the side, the prices on his production ones aren't bad.


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## capnvega (Nov 22, 2009)

For 20 years I have been wearing a lanyard of some sort around my neck with a light weight folding knife hanging on it by its belt clip. Also on the lanyard is a white Photon light. I am usually in a very casual state of attire and can't even be counted on to have pockets, much less a belt, but I always have my knife and flashlight. These knives have always been pointy and yeah, I have stuck myself a little, but I also cut myself shaving. I do use dedicated blunt tip, serrated knives on my PFDs and a Buck 315 in my pocket (gone thru 3 in 12 years) and a Leatherman Wave on my belt, but I use my "neck knife" more than any of them.


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## nemier (Jul 9, 2005)

I have a leatherman on my PFD and carry a Sypyderco Harpy in my pocket. The Harpy has worn shiny over the years as I always seem to be grasping/holding/playing/fondling it 
Occasionally I may forget it, say if taking off my jacket, but some seconds later I miss it and go retrieve it.

The leatherman is actually used more, virtually everyday on the boat, but the Spyderco is always there for the serious quick line-cutting work.

Btw, I've been MIA for awhile, feels good to get back to SailNet.


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## Smart Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

The May issue of Sailing World has a good article on this very topic. They must have been paying attention to this thread.


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## Lou452 (Mar 2, 2012)

I am a newbe and have enjoyed mthis thread> Right now I will use my dive knife tanto tip fixed blade. I keep a sog aegis on me most of the time it is a folder. I like to ski. you can come up on your elbows and knees if you need to breath then turn to your back spin around dig your feet in at 50 mph and you are barefooting. When one goes overboard without a man to kill the speed at the first hint of a problem you are in trouble Good luck getting to that knife with any injury you may have along with the odd angle of pull from whatever body part you are draging from. Clint Eastwood just shot the rope  LOU 452


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## zeehag (Nov 16, 2008)

i dont carry a knife on my person, but i am very very careful walking. i was instructed as a kid to walk safely. we had no lifelines.
when i use a kife on board i like my 3 in one davis or the new gil one i am g9onna mebbe buy..with the knife, marling spike, and shackle key....


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## larrytwo (Aug 31, 2011)

Hello there, Buck knife 110 frame has been my knife of choice. Strong keeps and edge and fits the hand. A little story... I was working oil service vessels in South east asia in 1978, came aboard after an evening ashore and found my cabin had been cleaned out. The only thing they left behind was the box my knife had came in. Inside was the warranty thatI had failed to fill out and mail in. so for the hell of it i filled it out explaining what had happened and mailed it. Ya know by golly, about 2 months later a new one came in the mail. Any one with that kind of customer care deserves my praise. ! still have that knife and it has served me well. this is it... Log In | Facebook Cheers Larry ps.. i'm not sure that this link to photo well work.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

I thought I'd post an update now that the knife is here.










Over all I am MUCH happier with this knife than I expected to be. The reason is mainly the sheath and retention devices. The sheath is quite ingenious in it's design and it has MANY attachment options that are TOTALLY secure.

Out of the box it has a slot for 2" webbing that can use a stanless screw to hold it in place. That means it can be fit securely to a sailing harness with 2 inch webbing.

Another great feature is that the loop on the sheath for the 2" webbing is located low near the handle. See in the picture how part of the sheath sticks below the handle? This is part of the 2" webbing loop. This means that the knife, when installed, doesn't stick down the full length of the handle like most knives do. In fact it only sticks about 2" below the webbing. This is really nice for installing on a sailing harness so the handle doesn't jab your leg (or worse!) when you sit down.

Finally I really like the retention system. It is very easy to use even with neoprene gloves, is very intuitive and super secure. It doesn't even rattle. It's hard to describe just how easy, intuitive and fast it is to get out and yet how secure it is. It's really good.

Why all this talk about the sheath and retention system? Well this is an emergency knife and I plan to carry it all the time and use it almost never. I did cut a couple lines with it and it seems to cut just fine. I don't worry about the knife not keeping it's edge because I don't plan to be using it much and thus not dulling it.

I like it so much, I'm getting one for the wife's harness too!

MedSailor


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## ImASonOfaSailor (Jun 26, 2007)

just was wondering how many times do you need to cut something? I cant think of a line i would just cut?


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## Giantjunk (Feb 2, 2011)

Shortman said:


> Leatherman Wave - I use the pliers as much or more than the knife.


I second the Wave. Would be lost without it. I've abused the heck out of it for more than 8 years now and it keeps coming back for more.


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## PCP (Dec 1, 2004)

cb32863 said:


> Spyderco C45SBK Rescue 79 mm


I vote for this one. It is designed to cut cables around propellers, I mean that one to carry always and to join to my old knife that come with me since my first boat 30 years ago. This one but with a cream handle. They still make it 50 or 60 years after they begun to make them 50 or 60 years ago years ago.










the photo is misleading. It is a big knife.

Regards

Paulo


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## RedHorizon (May 13, 2012)

I carry the Myerchin offshore crew knife in its sheath on my belt. I also generally have the Leatherman Juice CS4 in my pocket or onboard somewhere.


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## DivingOtter (May 5, 2012)

This is one of my diving knives. I always carry it with me because once I needed it to cut a line and didnt have it one me. BAD move on my part and not a good way to impress the boss. I was told if I was seen without a knife, I would be without a job, so.. Even off work it is clipped to me with a brass snap shackle. It doesnt hurt that its named the Atlantic Salt..


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

sonofa-
The idea is nothow often you need to cut a line. Anyone who works with rope will tell you that it is a sin to cut a line, anytime, ever, because one day you might need a longer piee and itis much harder to undo a cut than to make one.

But if you do need to cut a line, because someone's ankle has gotten looped in it, or wrist, or even neck (genoa sheets can get cuddly), you may very well have to deal with a traumatic amputation if you can't cut that line _instantly_. Which means a sharp knife, quickly accessible.

Last time I needed to cut a line it had moored us by the propshaft. the water was damned cold, I kept bobbing back up or hitting my head on the hull, and I was damned glad the knife _quickly _went through the line. (I now always carry a watch cap, to prevent my head from damaging any bottom paint on a hull.)


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

ImASonOfaSailor said:


> just was wondering how many times do you need to cut something? I cant think of a line i would just cut?


Got an override on one of the boats I race on. Couldn't ease the sheet, couldn't unload it with another. No time to keep banging that corner. Skip calls for a cut, sheet gets cut, we tack and get a second place finish instead of DFL.

Unfortunately after cutting the line flew up and wacked the jib trimmer and bloodied his nose. He's a tough nut though, used to do competitive stick fighting. Moral of the story, watch your face when cutting a loaded line.


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## speciald (Mar 27, 2007)

I have a titanium dive knife in a sheath mounted on either side of my dodger within easy reach from the winches. The purpose of these knives is to cut sheets should anyone's hand be caught in the winches. Every crew is told where these knives are. My personal knife depends on what I'm doing. I usually carry a Gill stainless emergency knife with a serrated blade that will cut any line quickly. They are designed to used wwhen launching a liferaft.


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## Stumble (Feb 2, 2012)

I have spent years looking for the perfect knife, and have been sadly disappointed. While there are a lot of good knives out there, I have been unable to find one that really fits my criteria. That being said I currently keep two in my pocket. A Davis Deluxe in one pocket for the spike and shackle key, and a Gerber Paraframe for the blade. But to be honest I can't say I really love either of them.

I keep thinking I should look into having a knife custom made, but then I think of the cost vs the new boat bits I need, and I just can't get up the motivation.


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## ndj (May 19, 2012)

Inexpensive Boyde rescue knife from Spydeco. It stays sharp, but eventually it will need a sharpen. How do you sharpen a serrated blade? Any videos out there? Thanks


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## Stumble (Feb 2, 2012)

Ndj,

That is part of the problem. With modern lines like spectra/dyneema and vectran, there isn't a knife I know of that will hold an edge for more than 3-4 cuts. This means constant resharpening, and none of the serrated blades are easily sharpened on the boat. For splicing I have ceramic knives that are good for about 10 cuts (these are supposed to never need sharpening). But ceramic is to brittle for use on a boat as a primary knife.


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## SchockT (May 21, 2012)

I carry a Leatherman Wave on my belt. Opening the blade with one hand is not as easy as some, but I haven't found it a problem. The serrated blade goes through rope easily, and they hold their edges nicely. Leatherman has an excellent warranty. I originally had a Super Leatherman that was a gift years ago. I twisted the screwdriver trying to get a seized screw out, and the local retailer took the knife back, no questions asked. No receipt, and it was at least 10 years old. Not only that, they let me upgrade to the Wave by paying the $30 price difference!


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## brehm62 (Mar 27, 2011)

This came as a set with both a multi-tool and a lock blade knife.

The Husky multi-tool seems much heavier and studier than the Sheffield tool even though both are stainless steel.

Both of the knives are stainless steel with aluminum frames. Both have a serrated blade and both can be opened with one hand. However, the Sheffield has more of a flimsy, slightly wobbly feel. Also, the Husky has the notch where your index finger would go and has rubber on the lower edge for a better grip.

If the knife's serrated blade wouldn't cut it then you could use the blades on the multi-tool. The right blade has a fairly aggressive two step serrated edge while the blade on the left is a double row saw blade.

Husky is sold by Home Depot. I believe the Husky multi-tool is still the same (although without the pretty, blue metallic finish) but I don't think they still sell the knife. Promate has a folding divers knife but I don't know how sturdy they are.


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## brehm62 (Mar 27, 2011)

Stumble said:


> With modern lines like spectra/dyneema and vectran, there isn't a knife I know of that will hold an edge for more than 3-4 cuts.


Have you tried a titanium blade?


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## Stumble (Feb 2, 2012)

brehm62 said:


> Have you tried a titanium blade?


The closest I have come was a titanium coated gill rescue kife, which was fine until the serrations dulled, and it was cheaper to replace it than to resharpen it.

The problem with titanium blades is that they just don't take a very good edge, and dont hold the edge they do take very long. This is caused by the relatively soft metal. Though their non-corrosive properties, and light weight make an interesting trade off as compared to stainless steel, which doesn't take or hold a very good edge either.

My primary objection to the knives I have seen on the market is that I don't think they are very well designed for the tasks that they need to acomplish.

First of course is they need to be sharp, very sharp, because sawing away at a line to free your crew member with a line crushing his body just won't work.

Second they need to have a locking blade. This eliminates a lot of English made knives, since they have legal restrictions on them (or so I understand). To me this is a non-negotiable.

Third they need a marlin spike. I use mine more than my knife blade to be honest

Fourth a shackle key. Ideally this would be cut into the handle itself.

Fifth the knife and spike should each be capable of being deployed single handedly, by feel alone, AND be able to be collapsed the same way.

Sixth a solid way to clip the knife to a pocket

Seventh rust resistance

Eighth the ability to be resharpened on the boat, without the need for jigs

Ninth NON-SERRATED. modern lines like spectra/dyneema do not respond to serrated blades, and have a tendency to pull threads, not cut. Scalloped blades work quire well, but they can't be sharpened (or so my kife sharpener tells me).

Ten light weight

Eleven a blade tip that when dropped on your tow won't penetrate, so some sort of blunt end.

Twelve strong enough it can be used as a small pry bar. Nothing extreme, just prying up cam cleats that have been glued into place.

Somewhere I actually have an exhaustive list, but this is the majority of my criteria. Some are definitely, others I would be willing to compromise on, but some of the major failing is see are that many knives require two hand to open or close. How exacally am I supposed to use two hands while cutting away a sail on a bouncing foredeck? Lack a locking blade or spike (I have scars from both), and a lack of a shackle key.

I know I am picky about tis, but it just doesn't seem to me that knife manufacturers really think about what they sell to sailors. They just stick a spike on and call it a day. Well, I want something a little more elegant than that, and until I find it... Well I will just keep collecting dull rejects.


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## northoceanbeach (Mar 23, 2008)

I have a wichard glowing three in one that I keep in my jacket pocket when sailing and a ceramic knife aboard for rope. 

At first I wasn't sure how necessary a sailing knife was but I find myself using the wichard all the time. It is expensive but higher quality than similarly priced folding knives I've had. 

Just had to get a ceramic because I was dulling the blade cutting my lines for whipping. I guess the 316 steel is softer.


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## chamonix (Jun 25, 2010)

Use a Grohmann #3 belt knife with army style sheath, flat grind. Made in Pictou, Nova Scotia. light, tough, dependable little knife. It's up for any task, from cutting rope to opening a tin can. Looks classy enough that it wouldn't look out of place cutting your steak at the cockpit table. It's born and bred in Canada, wouldn't use anything else. Good deal on " secounds " that are cheap with minor cosmetic flaws.


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## ashmun (Oct 21, 2003)

We have an assortment of knife for different uses. Leatherman clip-on is our favorite. I also like the Leatherman E4 Squirt (electrical tool) and Gerber’s curve. The work horse is the Swedish Mora fishing knifes ($7-12 at Maine fishing/marine stores), sailing knifes and the dive knifes. We keep the Mora all over the boat (near the winches on each side of the cockpit and at the mast. Another interesting knife is the M.U.K (Marine Utility Knife) - it’s scary sharp with a different curve.

Julia 
s/V Esprit
Mariner 39


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## Mr.Ritz (Jul 1, 2011)

Spy deco H1 knife.. Impossible to rust


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## deltaten (Oct 10, 2012)

A friend just gifted me one for the new boat. Came up with a Victorinox Mariner. First 2/3 of the longish blade is serrated and the rest is just as sharp and locks, too ! Can opener, bottle opener (actually a spanner for the SiG or AMT gas adjustement ring, but I digress) Nice marlinspike for being flat and incorporates a shackle key. Of course, the ubiquitous tweezer and toothpick ride in the scales . I use a small dog lead to hook to the end ring and my belt. Drop it in the thigh ocket and it's always handy. Cuts double braid and whatever in a hurry...including flesh..DAMHIK


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## kjango (Apr 18, 2008)

I have a knife that's one handed & also has a phid . Always attached to me when sailing . Love the new ads sailnet has in the middle of the page that you cannot close & obscuring posts that I may want to read .


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## Boasun (Feb 10, 2007)

I carry a Greber 450. Had it for years and can be opened single handedly and locks in the open posistion. Holds an edge really well.
But am thinking of a japanese short sword for; 1. to trim lines, 2. to repel boarders 3. because it would give me the illustion of being a swashbuckler of yore. Or should it be a cutlass??

Okay, okay, I shall stick with my Greber... It clips to my front pocket when not in use.


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## kjango (Apr 18, 2008)

Good job on those ads in the middle of the page obscuring the post we're all here to read .


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

kjango said:


> Good job on those ads in the middle of the page obscuring the post we're all here to read .


Sailnet doesn't have adds in the middle of the thread, only on the sides and top.

Time to run a virus scanner??

MedSailor


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## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

MedSailor said:


> Sailnet doesn't have adds in the middle of the thread, only on the sides and top.
> 
> Time to run a virus scanner??
> 
> MedSailor


There's no reason to believe that he has a virus.

Sailnet does put ads in the middle of their pages, including this thread. I don't see them on my computer because I have an ad blocker. I do see them on my phone because my phone does not have an ad blocker. If I diable the adblocker on my computer and refresh the page, I see about 6 adds on the top, sides, and middle of the page.

If you turn your ad blocker off, you will probably see them yourself.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

TakeFive said:


> If you turn your ad blocker off, you will probably see them yourself.


But then how would I know where to buy my online Viagra using my new low interest rate home loan? 

MedSailor


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## Sal Paradise (Sep 14, 2012)

I have several knives in a box on board but one I like is an old stainless steel Curry Lockspike Bosun. My knife seems to be from the late 50's early 60's and I found it in an old boat I bought.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

What, no Admiral's Size ?!


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## Degas (Nov 15, 2010)

My daily driver is an abused folding pocket knife that I keep in my life jacket pouch.

I also have a beautiful custom rigger's knife. It's a gift from a friend, a pro knife maker. I don't want to taint it with use but he insists that I put it to work. In the meantime it's on display on a settee shelf. 

I still haven't found my ideal knife. It needs to have a sheepsfoot blade, thick spine for knocking with a mallet, non-serrated for easier sharpening, folding, one-hand opening/locking/closing, no spike because I have no 3-strand on board, shackle key, maybe a screwdriver, corrosion resistant, lanyard ring, light and compact, inexpensive so I won't cry when (not if) it tumbles overboard.

If you see one let me know. I'll buy a dozen.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Dive knife in pouch on binnacle, multi tool in pocket (leatherman is worth the extra bucks) , folding survival 1/2 serrated on short lanyard attached to each harness/tether set up.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Degas said:


> My daily driver is an abused folding pocket knife that I keep in my life jacket pouch.
> 
> I also have a beautiful custom rigger's knife. It's a gift from a friend, a pro knife maker. I don't want to taint it with use but he insists that I put it to work. In the meantime it's on display on a settee shelf.
> 
> ...


This looks promising.

https://www.leatherman.com/free-k2-586.html?dwvar_586_color=158&cgid=knives#start=1

I use this, which come in smooth or serrated blades. I prefer serrated, which can be tuned up by sharpening the flat side. They simply don't loose their ability to cut like a straight blade anyway. The bottle opener has a slot you can't see in the photo, that may very well work as a shackle key.

https://www.leatherman.com/crater-c33t-28.html?cgid=knives#start=1


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## mstern (May 26, 2002)

My brother-in-law bought me one of these. I really like it, especially the bamboo handle and locking marlin spike. My only complaint is that it doesn't have a shackle key. 

I did have one of those ubiquitous, cheap West Marine stainless folding knives with the serrated blade, shackle key and marlin spike. But the blade didn't stay sharp, and the marlin spike didn't lock open, so it wasn't easy to use it to loosen knots. I wound up just keeping it around for the shackle key.

I also use a cheap folding "hunting knife" I found at a flea market for $5. The blade is serrated and it is super easy to open and close one-handed. The handle is genuine black plastic, with a real faux scrimshaw inset of a deer in a bucolic scene. Classy.

I will never buy or even use a really "good" knife. I can't see spending that much money on something that is going to go overboard and can be replaced with something that works just as well and is a quarter of the price.


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## Markwesti (Jan 1, 2013)

Myerchin Off Shore .

003 by mark westi, on Flickr

Kustom Ka-Bar

006 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_0091 by mark westi, on Flickr

Damascus under construction .

DSCF2508 by mark westi, on Flickr
DSCF2506 by mark westi, on Flickr


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

mstern said:


> My brother-in-law bought me one of these. I really like it, especially the bamboo handle and locking marlin spike. My only complaint is that it doesn't have a shackle key.
> 
> I did have one of those ubiquitous, cheap West Marine stainless folding knives with the serrated blade, shackle key and marlin spike. But the blade didn't stay sharp, and the marlin spike didn't lock open, so it wasn't easy to use it to loosen knots. I wound up just keeping it around for the shackle key.
> 
> ...


The spike can open most shackle pins.
Great knife but keep an eye out for rust


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## ThereYouAre (Sep 21, 2016)

This what I got. Victorinox Helmsman


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## Minnesail (Feb 19, 2013)

I carry this knife on me every day. I feel kinda naked without my Leatherman:









I keep one of these on the boat:


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

+1 on the leatherman. Have two of the model 300+ versions in case I lose one. Shackle pins are dangerous. Use a pliers. Most knifes are of no help dealing with Cotter pins or rings. Most have trouble with dyneema. Most don’t have a straight edge screw driver to scrape things or a Phillips.
Think of what you actually do on a boat. The 300+ allows you to deal with it when you see it without a trip down below to get a tool. Even use the scissors when cleaning up splices. 
We have a dive knife sitting always at the binnacle. It’s forever sharp. It will cut webbing and dyneema. Don’t feel bad going swimming with it because that’s wants its made for. Don’t feel bad leaving it out in the salt and spray.


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## Minnesail (Feb 19, 2013)

outbound said:


> Shackle pins are dangerous. Use a pliers.


You prefer a pliers over a shackle key? Why is that?

(Not doubting, just wondering, thanks in advance.)


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

I don't have a need to carry a knife. I have had some designated sailing knives over the years... and now a multi tool.

I don't have the need to cut much that requires a sailing knife. Rare occasion when I cut line... I use a sharp kitchen knife on a cutting board! For shackles I use a pliers. But I am not doing or undoing shackles very often...

I carry a mini swiss army knife from day to day.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

The primary reason I carry a knife, underway, is for the event that I caught a hand or finger in a line wrap. Therefore, if the knife folds, it needs to be openable by only the other. I’ve had some near misses, or what have felt like near misses, usually in heavy wind. 

I generally carry it in the dinghy as well, in the event the prop wrapped something. This has happened. Usually from some flotsam getting around the prop at the dinghy dock and not identified until putting in gear.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

I'm aghast ????using a Henkles or a Shun ( both sharp kitchen knives) to cut ropes or line

See are the two I have .....love the camillus

https://www.amazon.com/Camillus-Car...lding-6-5-Inch/dp/B005LHGBB4?tag=globosurf-20
https://www.amazon.com/Myerchin-Sailors-Tool-Linerlock-Silver/dp/B00408UUIU?tag=globosurf-20


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

Minnewaska said:


> I generally carry it in the dinghy as well, in the event the prop wrapped something. This has happened. Usually from some flotsam getting around the prop at the dinghy dock and not identified until putting in gear.


I keep one in the dink bag in the locker.


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## roverhi (Dec 19, 2013)

Stumble said:


> Ndj,
> 
> That is part of the problem. With modern lines like spectra/dyneema and vectran, there isn't a knife I know of that will hold an edge for more than 3-4 cuts. This means constant resharpening, and none of the serrated blades are easily sharpened on the boat. For splicing I have ceramic knives that are good for about 10 cuts (these are supposed to never need sharpening). But ceramic is to brittle for use on a boat as a primary knife.


https://www.boyeknives.com/pages/cutting-tests


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Shackle tool associated with rigging knives can jump out when you apply real torque. You may jerk back and fall. Marlin spike isn’t nearly as useful as a real one. It only resists in one direction. In the other it closes on your fingers. Get the real tools not a half attempt to satisfy the function.


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

The tools I used most are:
diagonal cutters
needle nose pliers
adjustable wrench (3 sizes)
vise grip (2 sizes)
philips head screw driver (sometimes use a variable speed drill)
small blade screw driver
wire cutter/stripper
mallet
socket drive to for hose clamps
xacto knife
crimper
scripto lighter
scissor


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

outbound said:


> Shackle tool associated with rigging knives can jump out when you apply real torque. You may jerk back and fall. Marlin spike isn't nearly as useful as a real one. It only resists in one direction. In the other it closes on your fingers. Get the real tools not a half attempt to satisfy the function.


I have a myerchin folding knife that I only use for splicing and rope work. It has a folding marlinspike that locks in place, just like a locking blade.


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## SeanM26 (Feb 18, 2018)

One of these, right hand cross-draw carried.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Bought three different size spikes with nice wooden handles for $5. They were used, looked, real old and you wonder where they came from. They’re a pleasure to hold. Work great and make me think of square riggers. I use a spike rarely. It’s not something I need to carry around always as there’s so little three strand on the boat. 
I watch what the professionals take out of their pockets. Leathermans seem real popular along with short fixed blades. Had a pro turn me on to using a dive knife and also to leaving a rechargeable dive flash light in the cockpit under the dodger. You try different things through the years. Ultimately it’s whatever floats your boat. I try to keep an open mind as new stuff is often better than old but often the tried and true is better. Would like to get the titanium leatherman with the holes in the handles but I lose stuff so it’s too expensive for me.


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## MikeOReilly (Apr 12, 2010)

Exactly the same as Minn. Leatherman is with me all the time.

https://www.leatherman.com/charge-tti-7.html?dwvar_7_color=10&cgid=multi-tools#start=1

Probably the most useful tool I own based on usage and versatility. The two main blades can be opened/closed single-handedly, making them useful emergency knives. And I find the needle nose pliers to be nearly as good as a marlin spike for opening up knots.

I've got a proper sail's knife in the chart table drawer, but it rarely sees the light of day.


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## mstern (May 26, 2002)

All these votes for the Leatherman have me rethinking how I feel about it. I’ve always thought of them like a Swiss Army knife: useful, but definitely inferior to more purpose made tools. And I’ve found my Leatherman tool (admittedly a knock-off version, albeit a good one) to be even less helpful than my Swiss Army knife. Maybe I need to try a real Leatherman ....


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## SanderO (Jul 12, 2007)

Knife or tools (for sailing purposes) need to be handy and that doesn't mean carrying it on your person.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

I get whatever Defender has on clearance, any good quality serrated clearance knife. Some really good deals out there, I keep one in a sheath on the binnacle and two or three more convenient to the companionway, all crew is instructed to cut a line before safety is compromised, there is always a small amount of time to agree, while we have never had to, it needs to be covered.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

SanderO said:


> Knife or tools (for sailing purposes) need to be handy and that doesn't mean carrying it on your person.


That's true, if you're always close enough to it, to reach it, with one hand caught in something. Our primaries are 8ish ft apart, let alone 10-12 ft from the coach top winches. Better be carrying.


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## MacBlaze (Jan 18, 2016)

My son wanted to start making knives and needed something to practice on. So we looked up some designs and he made me this. Not bad for a first effort. This spring I lashed it to the binnacle as an emergency/utility knife ...actually came in hand a few times.


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## SeanM26 (Feb 18, 2018)

MacBlaze said:


> My son wanted to start making knives and needed something to practice on. So we looked up some designs and he made me this. Not bad for a first effort. This spring I lashed it to the binnacle as an emergency/utility knife ...actually came in hand a few times.


That is a nice sturdy sheepsfoot!


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

Degas said:


> My daily driver is an abused folding pocket knife that I keep in my life jacket pouch.
> 
> I also have a beautiful custom rigger's knife. It's a gift from a friend, a pro knife maker. I don't want to taint it with use but he insists that I put it to work. In the meantime it's on display on a settee shelf.
> 
> ...


A spike is essential on a good rigging knife even if you have no three-strand line aboard. It is quite helpful in undoing stubborn knots and as mentioned above, helpful with opening or tightening shackles.
One of the best features of my Wichard is that it glows in the dark.


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## Degas (Nov 15, 2010)

capta said:


> A spike is essential on a good rigging knife even if you have no three-strand line aboard. It is quite helpful in undoing stubborn knots and as mentioned above, helpful with opening or tightening shackles.
> One of the best features of my Wichard is that it glows in the dark.


Huh. I've never had satisfactory success with a spike but you make a good case.

And glow in the dark is cool.

Thanks for the insight.


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## capt jgwinks (Sep 24, 2013)

Leatherman Wave. Best multitool there is. Only downside I've found is, like any other tool they eventually go Splash. And there like $90. I've been through three of them.


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

Degas said:


> Huh. I've never had satisfactory success with a spike but you make a good case.
> ........


Be aggressive...far as you can work it.
Add a set of pliers and youre golden
Unless its melted together...

Imo, its knowing where to break the knot


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## Yamsailor (Jun 7, 2006)

I use Boye Knives----the best!

https://www.boyeknives.com


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## jwoytek (Aug 22, 2008)

I’m still refining what I want to have on me vs. nearby, and so far I’ve just been coastal Great Lakes. I carry a Leatherman on my person every day anyway (currently the Rebar, but I’m wanting to swap it for one with an outside-opening blade), so it is muscle memory to reach for it when I need a tool of some sort and I don’t want to dig out the boat toolbox (or I’m not in a position to do so!). It goes on my belt everywhere. When I’m out for a sail, I have a Meyerchin (I think it is the Captain model) with a locking spike and blade with a shackle key cut-out. I got it several years ago to carry on the beach cat and for doing rope work. It gets clipped in an accessible place on my person. 

I like the idea of the fixed knife and spike combo. I might go that way eventually.


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## SeanM26 (Feb 18, 2018)

Yamsailor said:


> I use Boye Knives----the best!
> 
> https://www.boyeknives.com


No way I would spend that much on a work knife. I would cry everytime I broke one or lost it overboard.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Love the Boye basic 3 but look at the price.


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## Minnesail (Feb 19, 2013)

SeanM26 said:


> No way I would spend that much on a work knife. I would cry everytime I broke one or lost it overboard.





outbound said:


> Love the Boye basic 3 but look at the price.


Yeah, $190 for one blade and a spike. Beautiful knife, but yikes. You'd want to make sure you had something clipped to that lanyard.

https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Boye-Sheep-1.png


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## Valleysail (May 30, 2018)

I love my Leatherman Skeletool. I clip into my pocket every day including while sailing. It has: a knife (one handed opening), pliers, screw driver, wire cutter, bottle opener. The screw diver pits are changeable and it holds one spare. I haven't lost one and the weight is good even with lighter shorts on. I have broken the pliers though, so I'm on number two after 5 years of carry.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

My daily knife that’s always on me is a crkt. Snaps open with one finger. Has double locks so can’t close on me although I can close with one hand. Stays sharp and doesn’t rust. Pricy but compared to the basic 3 Wally World priced. Have several currently using the mig-13z as I like the half plain blade/ half serrated. Have another sharpened to a high bevel and kept honed that I use on fishing days as I dress my fish immediately if it’s not catch and release. 
But on the boat it’s a leatherman.


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

Most all blades stay sharp and ready for duty...if you sharpen them.
Forget that and doom is the word....
Learn what works well for yours


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

How do you sharpen serrated blades?


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

Rods, tapered or straight


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

How do you maintain a 20 degree angle on all surfaces of the serration?


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

outbound said:


> How do you maintain a 20 degree angle on all surfaces of the serration?


No need. You sharpen up the flat side and remove material back into the serration.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

I bought one of these and it's made a remarkable difference in sharpening everything. Forget the stupid gizmos. This is how the pros sharpen, on a band, in a guide, stepping down the grits. It's a consumer grade, but a very good one. I've brought a couple of knives fully back to life. Comes with good instructions.

Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener Ken Onion Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CW4T6RS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TmErDbXBMWJRF


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## MarkofSeaLife (Nov 7, 2010)

Always a sharp knife nearby. The one in my back.





LOL

:grin


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