# Best outboard motor for a small inflatable?



## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

Hello everyone,
My first post to Sailnet. I recently bought a used inflatable dinghy (an Avon Redcrest) for our sailboat, without a motor. We rowed it to get to shore in a calm bay, but it took quite a while and would be too much in rougher conditions, heavy currents, or farther from shore. Especially since it can only take about 3 large adults (700 Lb limit) and we usually have more people. 

I was wondering what would be the appropriate, reasonably priced outboard motor for this dinghy. The dinghy has a rounded inflated stern, rather than a hard endboard, and an insertable rig to mount the motor on a small board. It has an insertable plywood board as its bottom. I believe the original outboard for it was a 2-stroke Seagull (British), but was advised to get a new-ish modern 4-stroke motor. 

Any advice on models, prices, mounting, best place to get one etc. would be much appreciated as I'm pretty new to this.


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

The Redcrest is designed for a small motor and isn't really designed to hop up onto a plane. The Honda 2.3hp or Suzuki 2.5hp are good choices that weigh under 30lbs. The Honda has been made for well over 20 years (it was 2hp during most of that time) and can be found used for under $500 with a little looking.


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## Jaramaz (Aug 9, 2013)

2 strokes are:
Cheap, light (hp/lb is high), fuel inefficient. Low maintenance. Usually requires oil mix in the petrol.

4 stroke
expensive, in particular smaller engines. Better fuel economy. Better for the environment.

Electrical
silent, cheap. Limited range - depending on battery. Somewhat low power, probably enough for your Avon.

So, depends on what you want, where you sail, how far & much you intend to use the engine. 

/J


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## ReefMagnet (May 8, 2008)

I'd had Redcrests for years and always used a 3.5 hp 2 stroke motor. From memory the Redcrest is rated to 4 hp max. Having said that, and because the motors tend to "tuck under" on a soft tail under load, I always felt the 3.5 was too much and I think they would be happier with a 2 to 2.5 hp.

Another thing to keep in mind, especially when carrying big loads, is that the Redcrest has small diameter tubes. This means that it is a very wet ride. I had one memorable occasion in mine where the boat had actually filled with water when in a choppy seaway with a few big bods aboard - it was like sitting in a bathtub! For this reason, I'd recommend a lightweight 2 stroke in preference to a 4 stroke as they are lighter and, I think, a little more tolerant to being exposed to the conditions they will experience on the back of the Redcrest.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

evinrude 3.3hp


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## shananchie (Jan 29, 2014)

I use a Yamaha 2hp 2-stroke on my 8-foot, wooden-floor inflatable. It will move you at 4 knots or so with a full load on the dinghy. While it won't get up on a plane, the outboard is easy to move with one hand (26 pounds or so) and has a self-contained gas tank. 

If you get a chance to borrow longer oars from someone, try them out on your dinghy. Part of the problem is that the builders furnish you with oars that are too short to get much leverage. The longer oars make it much easier to row when you can't/don't want to motor.


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

Jaramaz said:


> 2 strokes are:
> 
> Electrical
> silent, cheap. Limited range - depending on battery. Somewhat low power, probably enough for your Avon.
> ...


Thank you! I was thinking of a new trolling motor designed for saltwater, like a Minn Kota Riptide, as these are much cheaper even new ($240 + battery).

Most old gas outboards are at least $400 in my area, usually with unsolved problems.

Does an electric trolling motor like that have sufficient power to move a dinghy + 3 people along?

What would be the typical range of the battery it uses?

The use would be to get 100-500 yards from the sailboat to shore.

Thanks!


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## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

I have a 2-stroke Yamaha 2hp on my 7'6" Achilles. It also is only good for 3 people. I find the engine a good match to the boat and love the light weight (about 22 lbs). If you can find a good one used, I would seriously consider it.


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

JimsCAL said:


> I have a 2-stroke Yamaha 2hp on my 7'6" Achilles. It also is only good for 3 people. I find the engine a good match to the boat and love the light weight (about 22 lbs). If you can find a good one used, I would seriously consider it.


I would suggest and recommend an old Evinrude or Johnson 2HP, 2 cycle - pretty much bombproof, weigh about 18 lb., parts still readily available (Bombardier Industries distribution network) ... and do show up on ebay from time to time.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Jaramaz said:


> 2 strokes are:
> Cheap, light (hp/lb is high), fuel inefficient. Low maintenance. Usually requires oil mix in the petrol.
> 
> 4 stroke
> ...


One more ..the Lehrer....propane driven


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

Seaman_3rdClass said:


> My first post to Sailnet. I recently bought a used inflatable dinghy (an Avon Redcrest) for our sailboat, without a motor.


My thoughts:

Spend some time rowing. As noted earlier a set of longer (collapsible) oars will make that easier. So will practice.

4-stroke engines (including Lehr propane) are heavier than 2-strokes or electrics. That is a particular problem for boats like the Avon Redcrest that don't have much buoyancy aft.

Remember that aside from trim and heel issues, the engine comes out of your load capacity.



Seaman_3rdClass said:


> It has an insertable plywood board as its bottom. I believe the original outboard for it was a 2-stroke Seagull (British), but was advised to get a new-ish modern 4-stroke motor.


If you are mechanically handy you might consider a Seagull 2 or Seagull 3. You should be able to find one in decent condition for less than $400. The little engines are darn near bullet proof and run well. Parts are still available (there aren't many). It wouldn't be the most efficient engine ever but the Redcrest/Seagull combination is a classic and would certainly set you apart from the crowd. *grin* It might cause you to speak with an accent and start drinking warm beer. *grin*

I had what I think was a Seagull 3 on a Cape Dory Typhoon back in the early 80s. I don't think I spent more than two hours a year on maintenance.

Regardless, pay a lot of attention to engine weight. Think hard about fuel tank or battery size, weight, and location in the dinghy.


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

I had an old seagull on a avon redcrest for awhile, damn thing was so loud it nearly made me deaf. Tough little motors. Get a Yamaha 2 of 3 Hp. Save you tons of trouble.


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## Multihullgirl (Dec 2, 2010)

We're using a 1959 Elgin, yes I said 1959. 2hp. Don't burn up the water, but we get where we want, and I'd guess it weighs less than 25 lb. Fairly simple, which is a good thing. I built a bag for it and the engine is stowed in a locker when not in use

An outboard mechanic once told me that the best thing for an OB is to use the 54!t out of it, and that seems to be true for the Elgin


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## Zarathu (May 26, 2014)

Kinda depends on what you need to do, and how fast you want to get there. If you simply need to get out to your boat on a mooring, or to get to the shore on an anchorage, then a 40 lb. or 55 lb. thrust Electric motor with a series 24 battery will work fine. However, if you are on an extended cruise then you won't have any way to chart the battery. I mean, I know of people who use a 55 lb. thrust electric to get their 2500 lb. sailboat out of the mooring or slip because its slow but sure. 

I have a 40lb thrust that I use on my kayak to get to and from the mooring which is about 200 yards from the dock. I also use it on the club dinghy to do the same. And, I have an attachment to use it as a backup for the 5 hp Honda 4cycle which is attached to the sail boat. But my boat only displaces 1200 lb. 

It all depends on what you want to use it for, how fast you need to get there, and if you have a means to charge the battery if you use a battery. I did see someone at my club take an inflatable like yours and connect a 5hp just like mine to it. He had the dinghy bow 2 feet off the water.


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## SuperV (Jul 5, 2014)

I have an older (78?) Evinrude 2-stoke on mine, which still work well after some mechanical work to replace the waterpump. Although 2-stokes have their drawbacks (noisy, use more fuel, have to mix fuel), i think in the long term the positives (simple to maintain/fix, less weight) outweigh the negatives. Unfortunately they are no longer sold new in the US, which is strange, since the new ones are environmentally a lot better than the old ones. As far as brand, I was thinking about going with a new Yamaha, since I can get that fixed anywhere in the world. I was looking at the less expensive Suzuki, but could nit find any indication of a world-wide support network such as the one Yamaha has. If you plan on going cruising,whatever you end up with should be maintainable in the areas you will be cruising. The electric motors seem nice, but I don't know you easily you can find parts. So for cruising I would get a small Yamaha 2-stroke outside the US.


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## Zarathu (May 26, 2014)

SuperV said:


> The electric motors seem nice, but I don't know you easily you can find parts.


The fresh water electrics are so cheap that when they break you buy another one. It cost me $180 to just get minor service and parts repair done on my Honda 5HP, and I can buy a new 40 lb. thrust one for $149. Its easy to use a freshwater one on salt. Just rinse it with some fresh water after use, and regulary spray parts down with wd-40.

There's a thread here on doing that, with people have used the fresh water models in salt for many years without a problem.


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

Thank you for all the helpful replies!

Our use is mostly to get ashore after anchoring, so far only in the U.S. Northeast (ME, NH, MA, RI). After spending a couple of hours shuttling crew while rowing 300-400 yards to shore back and forth, I'm considering would would be the best option to do it more efficiently.

So, one is a freshwater trolling motor like the Minn Kota from West Marine
which you say would work fine even in saltwater, provided it's rinsed afterwards (e.g. with a cockpit shower or slip hose). It's only $149 new + a 12V battery. 

Any idea how long a battery for this motor would last in terms of range, and how much it would weigh? The trolling motor is 30 Lbs. The battery must be another 20 at least, I'm guessing? Could it be charged like the house system batteries by the inboard motor, by swapping it with one of them?

I'm also considering old Johnson and Evinrude 2-3 HP 2-strokes, as these seem to be the cheapest, lightest and available in the area. Didn't see any inexpensive Yamaha 2HP outboards on the local craigslist. The 4-strokes seem to be at least $500. 

If I have to row (don't mind the physical labor, more the time it takes with multiple trips with >3 people aboard), I was thinking of fashioning a rudder for the Redcrest out of PVC pipe, some fittings, and a piece of oar or paddle so I don't go in circles. Has anyone here built something like that? It seems pretty simple and theoretically should work well 

I am also thinking of trying out a kayak paddle which I use with our canoe very efficiently, but I'm guessing on a flat bottom rubber dinghy it wouldn't work so well - unless it has a rudder. Thoughts?


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## caberg (Jul 26, 2012)

RichH said:


> I would suggest and recommend an old Evinrude or Johnson 2HP, 2 cycle - pretty much bombproof, weigh about 18 lb., parts still readily available (Bombardier Industries distribution network) ... and do show up on ebay from time to time.


Ditto. I prefer to row, but couldn't resist a 1.5 hp Evinrude (later became the 2hp) on CL for $180. At 18 lbs, I can easily carry it one handed and there's no external gas tank. I spent a bit of time cleaning it up, changed plug, impeller, gear oil, etc., and it fired up in a bucket in the garage on the first pull. Parts and the service manual were easy to obtain online. That saying "they don't make them like this anymore" really does seem to be true. It's a solid little motor.


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## Zarathu (May 26, 2014)

Checdk out this thread here:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/outboard/147898-55lb-thrust-trolling-motor-cheap.html


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

aeventyr60 said:


> I had an old seagull on a avon redcrest for awhile, damn thing was so loud it nearly made me deaf. Tough little motors. Get a Yamaha 2 of 3 Hp. Save you tons of trouble.


Hello,
I am considering an old (1966) Seagull 40 Plus, 3HP, that went with the Avon Redcrest. 
Can anyone tell me more about it? Are they unbearably loud? How is the reliability and ease of maintenance?
Thanks!


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## bratzcpa (Oct 18, 2011)

We have a Yamaha (it says "Mariner" but its really a Yamaha) 2hp. It is paired to our 8' Walker Bay inflatable with an air floor. The motor is a mod-1980s, so it is a two stroke.

We LOVE it. works great. Super Super simple - nothing to go wrong. No reverse or transmission - just turn it backwards to go in reverse. 

This surely doesn't get the boat up on plane, for sure . . . but it putters along at a nice clip. VERY fuel efficient (but yes, you do have to mix oil).


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

christian.hess said:


> evinrude 3.3hp


I bought a long-shaft 1980s 4HP Evinrude, But it doesn't have the fuel line or the tank. What kind of fuel line do I need - would a universal one from West Marine and a regular 2.5 gal can do the trick?


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

Seaman_3rdClass said:


> I bought a long-shaft 1980s 4HP Evinrude, But it doesn't have the fuel line or the tank. What kind of fuel line do I need - would a universal one from West Marine and a regular 2.5 gal can do the trick?


Yes. You just have to match the fuel hose diameter to the barb on the engine. Note that you'll end up with one of the new "EPA-compliant" ventless fuel tanks, so make sure you get the appropriate version of the universal fuel line.


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## IStream (Dec 15, 2013)

One thing I've learned about those ventless fuel tanks is to always disconnect the fuel line from the engine after use. When the tank sits in the sun, it pressurizes and can force fuel past the float valve in the carb while the engine is off, leading to difficult starting and running later. Make sure you open the vent in the cap *before* re-connecting the line to vent the pressure for obvious reasons.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

the new tanks, vent systems, flow meters, all that jazz are a nuissance I truly hate them

how hard is a simple knob vent? no it has to have safety features you know just in case you lose your brain somehwere...

take all measures to unfix what these guys(makers) are trying to fix for you...disconnect lines is a good one...

op so does your evinrude 4hp have an internal tank or not? if it doesnt go look for older smaller tanks with traditional vents and stuff...put an inline filter in the line with a bulb, double up on the clips and use some good quality hose line if you are anywhere near ethanol.

if you use your fuel sparingly a splash or seafoam each tank goes a long way in making life easier for you.

cheers


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

christian.hess said:


> the new tanks, vent systems, flow meters, all that jazz are a nuissance I truly hate them
> 
> how hard is a simple knob vent? no it has to have safety features you know just in case you lose your brain somehwere...
> 
> ...


I have one of the new "vent-in" only tanks on my Tohatsu 4HP 4 stroke & was concerned about the high pressure that developed when it was I the sun. I removed the little "one way in" valve from the tank cap.

However, after doing that it appeared that it was harder to start when cold. When squeezing the bulb I could hear bubbles in the tank. Not sure if the tank has to be "pressurized" before starting or what?
Once the engine started it ran fine.

Anyway, I bought a new $50 cap & the starting problem went away. If tank pressure is a concern, I would suggest just loosening the cap a bit, rather than modifying the one way valve as I did. An added benefit is not having to go to EPA jail if caught with a modified cap. If you loosen the cap, make sure no one sees you do it, fumes heap bad.

I have read the tank will vent outwards at about 5 or so pounds of pressure? All I know was that my tank was assuming the shape of a football when out in the sun.

Paul T


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

I feel so bad for you guys with that epa fear...

seriously loosening a cap is suspicious? or ilegal?

man

yeah I wouldnt mod a new vent style thats why I though searching around for old small tanks would be a better deal

One question then you cant use old metal tanks and vents then up in the states or what?


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

christian.hess said:


> op so does your evinrude 4hp have an internal tank or not? if it doesnt go look for older smaller tanks with traditional vents and stuff...put an inline filter in the line with a bulb, double up on the clips and use some good quality hose line if you are anywhere near ethanol.
> 
> cheers


No, it does not. That's why I can't even test it until I get a fuel line and a tank.

This may sound like a stupid question, but you guys are talking over my head a little bit with all these fine points on venting or not venting lines and caps, and I have zero experience with outboards. 
Are we talking about a special marine fuel tank, or will a regular jerry can like one you use to carry extra gas (say 1 or 2.5 gal) do the job?
I don't necessarily want to invest another $150-200 bucks for a new fuel line and gas tank to find out the motor doesn't work, if I don't have to.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

OK, so this was sent to me yesterday and I opened it at work. Almost closed it immediately, for fear someone would hear/see it, but its was just sophomoric enough that I had to watch it to the end.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

Seaman_3rdClass said:


> No, it does not. That's why I can't even test it until I get a fuel line and a tank.
> 
> This may sound like a stupid question, but you guys are talking over my head a little bit with all these fine points on venting or not venting lines and caps, and I have zero experience with outboards.
> Are we talking about a special marine fuel tank, or will a regular jerry can like one you use to carry extra gas (say 1 or 2.5 gal) do the job?
> I don't necessarily want to invest another $150-200 bucks for a new fuel line and gas tank to find out the motor doesn't work, if I don't have to.


this is why I suggested looking for older used tanks...the usually come with a hose, bulb and you are ready to go...

since you havent tested the engine btw...it will more than likely require some sort of fix, be that a simple carb cleaning or plug changes etc...

search on craigslist for used tanks and stuff...

if you really dont want to spend any money since you dont know if the engine works or NOT...by pass the quick connect and hook up a hose and clamp it onto the pickup inside...

get a soda bottle and mix a small batch of 50.1 gas oil mix...mix it up well and start it in a big water tank...

that way you dont invest so much, you do however have to invest a little since you dont know if it works which is an issue.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

Minnewaska said:


> OK, so this was sent to me yesterday and I opened it at work. Almost closed it immediately, for fear someone would hear/see it, but its was just sophomoric enough that I had to watch it to the end.


jajajajaja! good stuff...Ive always loved my johnson...

too bad I have an evinrude now though


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## SVAuspicious (Oct 31, 2006)

I have a Honda 9.9 and an Evinrude 150. Now I want a Johnson 225. *sigh*


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

Seaman_3rdClass said:


> Thank you! I was thinking of a new trolling motor designed for saltwater, like a Minn Kota Riptide, as these are much cheaper even new ($240 + battery).
> 
> Most old gas outboards are at least $400 in my area, usually with unsolved problems.
> 
> ...


I use a trolling motor with an Avon Redcrest. I find this to be ideal for my use.
I've anchored a few hundred yards from a public dinghy dock and made 4 round trips without recharging.

The trolling motor (30lb thrust) has the grunt to push us against 20kts winds with no problem.

The only difference in my usage from your intended usage, is that I only transport 2 people, not three. This will have some impact on your range or number of trips.

No, the Avon does not get on plane with a trolling motor.

Hope that helps.


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

christian.hess said:


> this is why I suggested looking for older used tanks...the usually come with a hose, bulb and you are ready to go...
> 
> since you havent tested the engine btw...it will more than likely require some sort of fix, be that a simple carb cleaning or plug changes etc...
> 
> ...


Great, thank you so much - this is very helpful! I found one old Evinrude 5 gal tank on craigslist, will see what the deal is.


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

> christian.hess said:
> 
> 
> > I feel so bad for you guys with that epa fear...
> ...


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## bratzcpa (Oct 18, 2011)

okay, so the music video was a serious thread "drift". . . . but it was so dang funny, it was WELL worth it. Thanks for sharing!


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

it makes having an outboard fun!


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## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

Minnewaska said:


> OK, so this was sent to me yesterday and I opened it at work. Almost closed it immediately, for fear someone would hear/see it, but its was just sophomoric enough that I had to watch it to the end.


Greatest part of the video: 3:25, where she's walking past the boats and "gets a rise" out of every motor she passes. :laugher :laugher :laugher


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

TakeFive said:


> Greatest part of the video: 3:25, where she's walking past the boats and "gets a rise" out of every motor she passes. :laugher :laugher :laugher


such a tease!


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

An update: I found a used 6 gal Evinrude on CL, bought a fuel line at West Marine (way too expensive, but the sales guy there was amazing, explaining and writing down every step to try and get the old Evinrude 4 HP working - in that sense well worth the money spent). 

Long story short, once I made a fresh fuel mix, connected everything right, sprayed some starter fluid, and put it in a bucket, it started right up with a few pulls! And it's been sitting for at least a couple of years, according to the owner. 

It seems to run fine, even checked forward and reverse briefly, which seem to work, so far as I can tell from doing it in a bucket.

Now, should I leave well enough alone and do a real test on the dinghy, or should I mess with the carb, spark plugs etc.before I go out on the water?


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

if it starts and has a nice pee of water your good to go

get some seafoam and run it your first tank fulls....

you need to test in in the water...as loads will show signs of issues more clearly

sounds though that for now you are good to go.

if you need any help a simple(manual) carb cleaning is a simple thing to do...and will help.

btw you have just experienced one of the beatuies and PROS of old 2 strokes, they are anvils and simplicity at its best...dead reliable with dead simple maintenance.


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

christian.hess said:


> if it starts and has a nice pee of water your good to go
> 
> get some seafoam and run it your first tank fulls....
> 
> ...


Another update: I tested it in seawater this weekend. Amazingly, it continues to start pretty much right off the bat (fingers crossed), when I remember to put it in neutral. Went to a mooring ball about 1/2 of a mile, then did some shuttling of folks back and forth between two boats.

The push is not fierce - I expected more from a 4HP motor - but the motor sounds good (according to my more motor-savvy friend). Having the tank (6 gal metal, filled with 4 gal + oil) in the stern of the dinghy (Avon Redcrest) put the bow up quite a bit while towing the dinghy. When I shifted the tank to the bow, that seemed to balance it out, as it should, I suppose (the motor is ~50 lbs, the tank + gas is probably ~ 40lbs). I probably put too much gas in it to use it up this season, but I thought 1 gal in a 6 gal tank is too little for reliable fuel pickup.

A couple of questions for the dinghy experts - would you tow it with the motor up or down? More drag with motor down, I know, but it seemed less bouncy and more balanced. Or would you take the motor off except for very short hops? It's such a pain, though...

Also, when motoring in some 1+ foot chop, the bow of the Avon was getting lifted up and we were getting splashed a lot. It has a two-part home-made plywood bottom, with the bow part lifting up on a hinge). Would locking down the bow part of the bottom, e.g., with small bolt locks, help with that or make it worse?

Another friend suggested sticking a pool float noodle under the hard bottom to make it more V-shaped. I was thinking perhaps screwing a 2x2 to the bottom part of the bottom would help and make it more rigid. Thoughts?


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

yeah the v shape will help

Im a no tow guy with or wothout motor unless im in protected very protected waters where wind and or waves never get up high...

anything else its up pn deck or stowed...

having said that no issues for daysailing and putsing around...

that is a big motor and tank for your dinghy...when funds allow get a small one and make a strap to keep the tank in the bow to balance things out...

my dinghy is really small too with the mountable aluminum motor mount...my engine is smaller and much lighter I would guess than your 4hp, it also has no reverse....and also an internal tank...

its the perfect match really.

in any case the pool noodle is a great idea and I have seen it done where the bottom of the dinghy stretches with age and or the ply bottom is bendy...

(I posed your question on the diy ply floor thread where I asked about the hinges...if you look at original 3 peice ply bottom they have slats that squeeze together and then off to the side a long peice that keep it straight and prevent bends, however over time they always bend and the bow or dinghy become ushaped

check out this thread and you see the guy made a solid single piece which eliminated all possibility of flex

yes heavy and cumbersome but much better when in use...

but remember small dinghies are cumbersome and awkward so dont expect great performance out of them...

again congrats on the engine...always good to have one work like that

peace


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

christian.hess said:


> that is a big motor and tank for your dinghy...when funds allow get a small one and make a strap to keep the tank in the bow to balance things out...


Yes, but that's the only old tank I could find on CL at the time and it was $20 rather than $55 for a 3 gal one at West Marine, which have their EPA-related problems.

The motor seem built like a tank, except for the cover, which is light. The shaft though seems very solid compared to new motors of that size.

Btw, when I opened the cover, I found lots of sand and salt inside around the motor. Is that common for saltwater motors? I tried to vacuum out as much of it as I could.


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

hmmm not really...if used in saltwater a lot and not rinsed you often get salt crystals and a white powder that develops around all alloys and stuff...

the sand probably means the engine was stored at one time in a windy beach area...(however and it is a common occurence when beaching dinghies a lot of times owners flip in the surf and the engine might have been dunked on the beach...)

its a possibilty....

not all owners cover them up...thats how you get cheap engines jajaja

if this is the case I would clean the intake and do a carb clean before using the engine more..reason being is if sand gets inside the cylinder it will gouge the walls, losen up the ring pressure and you will start losing power...and smoke more...

the thing is 2 strokes will still run and start easily despite this.... its just that you are low on power..this might be why you felt the lack of power for a 4 horse...

however a cheap rering and deglaze of the cylinder is less than 50 bucks for your engine...

about the tank I know thats what you found I remember advising to, but you had to test it first...now that you know it works you can save up or look for an ideal tank setup for your dinghy...


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## Seaman_3rdClass (Jul 3, 2014)

Ah, this makes sense. And it does smoke a bit, especially initially. 
I thought the air filter would stop the sand from getting in, but I guess it doesn't have one. Or at least I couldn't find it, nor could I find an air filter on the internet for this Evinrude (E4RDHLCCS). I guess I'll have to buy the manual for it now so that I can properly maintain it, and look for a smaller tank....

Again, many thanks for all your helpful advice!


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## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

my pleasure man...most old outboards dont have any sort of air filter element...and installing one unfortunately creates more issues, especially with rejetting...

those familiar with rejetting can tune the hell out of an outboard, ramming air, filters, etc...but it takes time

if it were me, a simple carb clean for now will make sure no further damage happens

if you want to get fancy you can install a wire mesh not too fine to prevent big stuff from being sucked in.but really ir your cowling seals the base well you are good to go.

the reason you dont see filter elements is your in the water using it so not a lot of dust and dirt can get in...however in certain areas(like the red sea for example there is a lot of sand in the air and a simple element can save your engine from sucking in dust) I know we took precautions with our dinghy engines and big diesel when motoring up it for example.

sand gets everywhere!!!!!!!!!!


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