# What size/strength halyard ?



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I am in the process of replacing my wire halyard on my mainsail and had thought of using all rope instead. I was wondering what size though and what breaking strain ?
I was thinking 10mm 16 plait double braid polyester which has a BS of 2100kg. Will that be enough for a 36 Sloop ?


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

I don't think breaking strength with any modern line for a min halyard is much of a concern, trhat line sounds more than strong enough, be sure it is low stretch also. 3/8 is an OK size for the hand, be sure your blocks and sheaves will treat the line right.

I persoanlly like to discuss line selection questionswith the staff at Layline 2008 Cordage Line-Up they really know their rope.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Thanks sailingfool


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## SEMIJim (Jun 9, 2007)

If you've currently got a wire halyard, you may have to replace the sheave at the head of your mast before going to rope.

Jim


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## bubb2 (Nov 9, 2002)

As a general rigging rule is 3/8 up to 32 feet of boat length. 1/2 inch for 32 feet and over.


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## sailaway21 (Sep 4, 2006)

Abrasion resistence is as important as outright strength.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Depends on what rope you're using too. 10 mm (about 3/8") T-900 has a breaking strength of 11,800 lbs.... which is more than adequate for most boats larger than 32'. 



bubb2 said:


> As a general rigging rule is 3/8 up to 32 feet of boat length. 1/2 inch for 32 feet and over.


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

bubb2 said:


> As a general rigging rule is 3/8 up to 32 feet of boat length. 1/2 inch for 32 feet and over.


Bubb2,

are you thinking of jib sheets as opposed to mainhalyard?? there arn't too many halyard sheaves and blocks that will take line that large...1/2 is way to big for mid-size boats, i don't know what goes on a maxi...


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I went up the mast and had a look and the pulley is rounded, exactly like all the others at deck level. The halyard I have at the moment is wire to rope, not wire all the way (do they exist, I couldn't see a wire going around a winch too well). 

In Australia here T900 means nothing to me and isn't listed in any boat supply cat. Is it the same as Spectra which in 10mm has a BS of 4950kg but is a whopping $7p/m ?
I think i'll go with the 16 braid at 10mm at a more reasonable $2.50p/m.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Betty-

T-900 is a New England Ropes product, NEROPES.com, and yes, it is basically a Spectra line...but not quite that expensive, at least where I'm getting it.


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## Ilenart (Jul 23, 2007)

Betty,

I think the 10mm polyester will be fine. I also need to replace my jib halyard and it is either 10mm or 12mm polyester and that's handling a 56sqm (603sqft) sail on a 45ft boat. More importantly, make sure the rope matches your sheaves / pulley size.

One thing to look for is braid on braid or double braid as this is better for a halyard (less stretch).

Assume you are looking at Whitworth's website? I find that they have reasonable prices in Oz.

Ilenart


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Betty-

Actually, if you can find a polyester line that has a parallel core and braided outer jacket, that would be better for a halyard than a double braid.

New England Ropes makes a line called Sta-SetX which is constructed like this and it is far lower stretch and slightly stronger than a braid on braid line of the same diameter. Brion Toss, a well-regarded rigger, considers it one of the best values in modern lines-with low-cost, and relatively low stretch.

3/8" StaSetX has a BL of 5500 lbs., 3/8" StaSet has a BL of 4400 lbs. StaSetX also stretches about 30% less. I don't know if you can buy it easily down under though.



Ilenart said:


> Betty,
> 
> I think the 10mm polyester will be fine. I also need to replace my jib halyard and it is either 10mm or 12mm polyester and that's handling a 56sqm (603sqft) sail on a 45ft boat. More importantly, make sure the rope matches your sheaves / pulley size.
> 
> ...


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Now it's funny you say that. A friend gave me a very long length of line which he bought at a DIY store here. Because of this I didn't give it a second thought and was going to use it for general stuff but when I looked at it I noticed it was very strong and seemed impossible to stretch even slightly. When I was in the same store today I noticed it on the roll and I'm 50% sure that is the name. I will go back and check out the name again but how can I tell if this is the type of rope you mean by looking at it....it has a braided outer jacket alright but what do you mean by a parallel core ?


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## sailaway21 (Sep 4, 2006)

bettyswollocks said:


> Now it's funny you say that. A friend gave me a very long length of line which he bought at a DIY store here. Because of this I didn't give it a second thought and was going to use it for general stuff but when I looked at it I noticed it was very strong and seemed impossible to stretch even slightly. When I was in the same store today I noticed it on the roll and I'm 50% sure that is the name. I will go back and check out the name again but how can I tell if this is the type of rope you mean by looking at it....it has a braided outer jacket alright but what do you mean by a parallel core ?


The core is not braided nor laid, the filaments or strands are thus parallel.

The stuff you're looking at in the DIY store is probably polypropylene. Possibly the worst choice you could make. (g)

I'd second the dog's recommendations of polyester, known formerly as dacron, as it has nearly the strength of nylon with superior abrasion resistence.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I know polypropylene rope when I see it sailaway. 

No this stuff was expensive - hence the reason I suspect it is the stuff sailingdog is speaking of. Thanks for the description though, I will have a look today.


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## sailaway21 (Sep 4, 2006)

bettyswollocks said:


> I know polypropylene rope when I see it sailaway.
> 
> No this stuff was expensive - hence the reason I suspect it is the stuff sailingdog is speaking of. Thanks for the description though, I will have a look today.


Really? That's funny because I don't know polypro when I see it anymore! It's not dad's ski rope anymore. They blend it and braid it in so many different ways, colors, and finsihes I hardly recognize it anymore. And it usually looks real high-tech, too. Oh well, sorry to be of offense.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

If you cut open StaSetX, you will see that the core consists of straight, parallel fibers, wrapped with a thin, almost gauzy, wrapping, which separates the inner core from the outer braid and compresses it.

BTW, simple test... Dacron (polyester) and Nylon lines sink in water. *Polypropylene, spectra and dyneema lines FLOAT. * If it is a blend, it depends on what materials are blended-however, Spectra isn't generally blended with dacron, but may have a dacron outer braid, thus confusing the issue a bit.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

If you are going with rope for the halyard, order it a bit longer than you need. This allows you to cut off the top end which is always exposed to UV above the mast sheeve when you are sailing, and UV is what hurts these halyards the most. You can also "end for end" (reverse) the halyards each season, again, ensuring the UV damage is spread across both ends rather than taken all on one, and shifting any wear spots from line clutches, etc.

A lot of folks will have the outer sheath stripped from the halyard, except for the bottom portion that needs to run through winches and turning blocks, in order to get less weight aloft. But of course, that precludes end-for-end and allows more UV damage to what's up there. If you lay up for the winter, it can also pay to run a messenger line, and simply store the rope halyards out of the sun for the winter.


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## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

sailingdog said:


> If you cut open StaSetX, you will see that the core consists of straight, parallel fibers, wrapped with a thin, almost gauzy, wrapping, which separates the inner core from the outer braid and compresses it.
> 
> BTW, simple test... Dacron (polyester) and Nylon lines sink in water. *Polypropylene, spectra and dyneema lines FLOAT. * If it is a blend, it depends on what materials are blended-however, Spectra isn't generally blended with dacron, but may have a dacron outer braid, thus confusing the issue a bit.


If a good photo were posted, the line could more than likely be identified as Sta-SetX if that's what it is.


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## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

hellosailor said:


> If you are going with rope for the halyard, order it a bit longer than you need. This allows you to cut off the top end which is always exposed to UV above the mast sheeve when you are sailing, and UV is what hurts these halyards the most. You can also "end for end" (reverse) the halyards each season, again, ensuring the UV damage is spread across both ends rather than taken all on one, and shifting any wear spots from line clutches, etc.
> 
> A lot of folks will have the outer sheath stripped from the halyard, except for the bottom portion that needs to run through winches and turning blocks, in order to get less weight aloft. But of course, that precludes end-for-end and allows more UV damage to what's up there. If you lay up for the winter, it can also pay to run a messenger line, and simply store the rope halyards out of the sun for the winter.


Good advise about cutting a little extra line.

Normally when a cover is removed from a halyard it is a high tech line.
I wouldn't do it with normal polyester DB. 
Except for a furling line sometimes.


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