# How often do I need to replace my cutlass bearing?



## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

How often does one need to replace their cutlass bearing? I have a haulout coming up and the mechanic I was talking to said to replace it ever 500 hours or so. That doesn't sound right....

MedSailor


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## PorFin (Sep 10, 2007)

Med,

I think you're instincts are right -- way too many variables involved to be able to say there's a set schedule.


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## jsaronson (Dec 13, 2011)

When there is play in it.


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## CapnRon47 (Jul 29, 2007)

When I had mine changed during a haul out it was because there was play in the prop shaft. Try turning the shaft and wiggle it from side to side. If there is any play in it, then you should think about changing it. But I don't know what the definition of 'any' is!

cheers.
Ron


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## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

There is no "hour rule" for a cutlass bearing. As CapnRon and jsaronson say, it depends on whether there is play in the bearing. 

A tip - If the boat is freshly hauled and the bearing is still wet, it may have no play and still need replacement. On the other hand, hauling the boat and letting the bearing dry for a few weeks often times reveals a bearing that needs replacement.


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## benesailor (Dec 27, 2012)

Can someone define "play" in relation to the cutlass bearing. How much is to much?


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## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

benesailor said:


> Can someone define "play" in relation to the cutlass bearing. How much is to much?


1/16th of an inch IF memory serves me. Someone correct me....


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## Perseverance (Oct 5, 2010)

Most cutlass bearings are compressed rubber and any play would indicate some wear. Some, like mine are machined hard plastic and a certain amount of play is acceptable. Mine for a 1.5 in shaft is .090 ". If the boat is out I would seriously consider replacment if even slightly indicated.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

No set schedule. Look at it and wiggle it when it comes out. If you were replacing the shaft of pulling it at any time, I would say to replace it as it is a low cost oart and no need to expense pulling everything again.

We had our prop shaft replaced and also a drippless shaft system put in, even though the Cutlass was ok it was 7 years old so we elcted to replace it as the shaft was already pulled. The cutlass bearing was only $75


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## itsaboat (Sep 28, 2011)

Not to hijack a thread, but to play the counter argument, my cutlass bearing is tight. I mean so tight I can hardly turn the prop by hand in neutral. It's not new either. It came with the 1985 boat. We replaced the stern tube on last haulout and I had to hammer the prop shaft (with a wood block as a buffer) to get it back up to the flange.
Should I just motor around until it wears some? I'm a lake sailor with an easy in and out of the slip an dont run the engine much. Does rubber swell over time?


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## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

itsaboat said:


> Not to hijack a thread, but to play the counter argument, my cutlass bearing is tight. I mean so tight I can hardly turn the prop by hand in neutral. It's not new either. It came with the 1985 boat. We replaced the stern tube on last haulout and I had to hammer the prop shaft (with a wood block as a buffer) to get it back up to the flange.
> Should I just motor around until it wears some? I'm a lake sailor with an easy in and out of the slip an dont run the engine much. Does rubber swell over time?


A couple of things come to mind.
1. Are you sure it's the cutlass bearing? It's possible that the stuffing box is too tight.
2. Are you sure that the engine is aligned properly? This could cause the bearing to bind.

I'm sure there could be other reasons. Hopefully someone else can chime in.


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

chef2sail said:


> *The cutlass bearing was only $75*


Now I feel better. Really? A boat part for under a grand??? Sweeet 

If that's the case I'll replace it. It's not a part I've replaced before so I'll learn something new and not spend too much. Although, fixing something before it breaks is really not me.... 

Are there types or brands or do I just get one from defender? Is it better to get rubber or nylon? Are the specific to the boat or just shaft diameter?

MedSailor


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

MedSailor - I forget why, but I did a search for cutlass bearing replacement process. Here's a nifty tool that looks interesting:





I have no affiliation with the seller, just thought it was cool.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

jimgo said:


> MedSailor - I forget why, but I did a search for cutlass bearing replacement process. Here's a nifty tool that looks interesting:
> 
> I have no affiliation with the seller, just thought it was cool.


For $395 to get just the adapters for your own shaft, this tool could pay for itself over time. Split it with a buddy and it would pay on its first use. Use yours to help a buddy and you could make your investment back in beer.


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## lancelot9898 (Dec 30, 2008)

I had the cutlass bearing replaced after only 2 years from when the boat was brand new. The yard manager came by at haul out and grabed the prop and said there was some play in it and while I had a hard time seeing any play I told him to go ahead and replace it since the cost was under $100 if I remember right. I was not there to watch the replacement, but I don't think he removed the shaft. Not sure how it was done since there is no strut involved plus there is no clearance to use that tool in the above video. It's probably time to replace it again since that was 20 years ago.


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## H and E (Sep 11, 2011)

I just replaced mine. The sound of a bad bearing is kind of like a drumming - if you here that it is past time. I had about 50 thousandths inch play in it. I would guess that it should be changed any time there is play. I suspect once the play starts it will wear quite quickly. System is much smoother now.


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## PorFin (Sep 10, 2007)

Med,

The relative difficulty in replacing the bearing will depend a great deal on where the bearing is located.

If it's in a strut, then things are much easier than if it's in a deadwood mounted shaft log -- it's a question of access to the forward end of the bearing in order to press it out.


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## Hudsonian (Apr 3, 2008)

A friend who is responsible for tug repair with a large towing company told me that they replace the cutlass bearing every time a tug is hauled. The cost of the bearing is so cheap compared to the cost of the haul that it doesn't make sense to not change the cutlass bearing. On the other hand, he undoubtedly factors in loss of use when analyzing the economics. You may not.


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

As stated ease all depends on where the bearing is. Ours is in a strut. It requires that the shaft be pulled out. The shaft clearence with the rudder in is .33 inches so we were lucky we didnt have to have the rudder dropped. Oours came from Buck Algonquin

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pages/ProductPages/drivetrain/bearing_page.html

The part itself is inexpensive and relarted to shaft size. If you are having the shaft removed its a no brainer to replace the bearing no matter how old it is IMHO.

Dave


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## benesailor (Dec 27, 2012)

Well....... this thread created some work. I had been suspicious of my cutlass bearing but now I'm really suspicious. I think it's time to change it out.
I'm assuming it's a press fit?


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## CapnRon47 (Jul 29, 2007)

Our cutlass bearing was pretty warn (the boat was new to me), when I had it hauled a few years ago.










It mounts in a small fairing and is held in place with side mounted allen screws. They did not have to pull the shaft to remove the old one (although that is how it got all chewed up on the outside), they just grabbed it and pulled it out with a puller. The new one fits nice and snug and went on over the outer end of the shaft (with prop removed). I had my Maxprop regreased and reset at that time since it was already off. The replacement of the cutlass bearing was not expensive and is in line with what others have indicated.










cheers,
Ron


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## MedSailor (Mar 30, 2008)

Great info! Thanks everyone. My prop shaft comes out of the hull with an aperture, instead of a strut. It looks most like Ron's photo above. 

I will be pulling the shaft so, I'll replace it this time in the yard.

MedSailor


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## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

MedSailor said:


> Great info! Thanks everyone. My prop shaft comes out of the hull with an aperture, instead of a strut. It looks most like Ron's photo above.
> 
> I will be pulling the shaft so, I'll replace it this time in the yard.
> 
> MedSailor


Good idea. It will be a piece of cake then. Since you are pulling the saft are you placing stuffiing box with dripless ( do you have). If should at least take the oppertunity to replace the rubber bellows on the shaft inside the boat. How about the coupling? how does it look? will they have to hammer it when they remove it? May be a good time to rrplace it also. Not that expensive either. You have it all apart so look at it good. Also make sure the shaft isnt scored.

We replaced everything this year, since it was out as the major expense and work (labor) was pulling the shaft. New engine mounts, coupler, shaft, driplles packing, cutless bearing. Parts cost less than $500
Propeller Shaft Removal


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