# Rigging for a Spinnaker



## Quickstep192 (Jan 6, 2001)

I'm thinking of adding a spinnaker next sailing season and I figure over the winter is a good time to begin to build the list of things I'll need to rig it. I know/assume I'll need to put a block at or near the top of the mast. The halyard will need to be lead to the cabin top and presumably to a clutch. Then, I reckon I'd need some blocks aft for the sheets. And, of course a spinnaker and pole. 

What have I overlooked?; It would be great to see pictures or more detail about how the block on the mast should be rigged.


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

First questions

What size of boat?

Dip pole or end-for-end gybe?

The spinnaker halyard has to be above all of the standing and running rigging. On a fractional rig, it could be lower than the top of the mast. But it must be above the forestay. The halyard can terminate at the mast, if you have a winch there.


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## jsaronson (Dec 13, 2011)

What type of boat do you have?
Don't forget the sheets!


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## sww914 (Oct 25, 2008)

You'll probably need a pole lift and a pole downhaul too. Oh, and an eyelet or fitting to attach the pole to the mast too. Sorry If I used the wrong terms, internet sailing experts, I suck.


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## SchockT (May 21, 2012)

A lot depends on the type of spinnaker you are thinking of, and how big your boat is.

I assume since you are talking about a pole you want a traditional symetric spinnaker. In that case you will need a topping lift aka an "uphaul" to lift the pole. It is like a halyard that exits the front of the mast part way up. You will also need a foreguy, aka a downhaul to brace the pole down. This is a line that runs to a block in the middle of the foredeck. (Some boats run the downhaul to the base of the mast, which has pluses and minuses!) You will also need a mast ring that the inboard end of the pole clips to. Ideally a section of T-track down the front of the mast with the ring on a car. This allows better pole adjustment for different conditions. There are a few other things to consider depending on the boat size and what you intend to do with it.

The other option to consider is an asymetric or "cruising chute". They are much easier to rig. You just need a halyard and sheets, and the only decision is whether to tack it to the stem, or install a bowsprit. The downside is they don't work very well for downwind, they are best suited to reaching.


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## cookwithgas (Oct 8, 2007)

Quickstep192 said:


> I'm thinking of adding a spinnaker next sailing season ... And, of course a spinnaker and pole.
> 
> What have I overlooked?; It would be great to see pictures or more detail about how the block on the mast should be rigged.


Two things - a spinnaker sock/sleeve and an ATN tacker (for an asymmetrical spinnaker). I added an assym. spinnaker this summer. I don't use a spinnaker pole . FX sails made my spinnaker and included a sleeve or sock - you really want one of these, and an ATN tacker. I put two blocks as far AFT as I could get them and a single block on the deck below the jib furler that allows the ATN device to ride up and down the furled headsail for trimming. Attached are a few blurry pictures of the spinnaker flying one evening on the way back home.

Good luck - ARRRRR!


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## Quickstep192 (Jan 6, 2001)

Thanks for all the great information and follow on questions. My boat is a Quickstep 24'. It's a masthead rig, so I'm going to have to see what my options are up there to get above the headstay. I had planned on a symmetrical chute, largely because I had imagined that sailing an asymmetrical was challenging without a sprit, but cookwithgas has sort of disproven that, so I guess I should include requests for opinions for symmetrical versus asymmetrical.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

What are your typical sailing conditions? If you do a lot of upwind/downwind as opposed to mostly reaching back and forth then a symmetrical spinnaker will be the better bet. Also once you've got it sorted I think it's easier to gibe than an assym.

Suggest you look around/talk to similar sized boats/owners to spec out the gear you'll need. Pole,(if symm.) downhaul, pole lift, halyard, sheets and turning blocks, maybe twingers if you get some real breeze now and then.. the list goes on.


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## sck5 (Aug 20, 2007)

How many people do you normally sail with? You need crew who know what they are doing with a symmetrical spinnaker. If you are shorthanded then an assymetrical will get far more use. No, you can't go dead downwind with one but you can get pretty far off the wind in pretty light air with a properly sized and cut assymmetrical. And you can do without the ATN tacker at first (or altogether) Most of the time you can get away with a fixed length tack pendant that will be adequate under most conditions and will greatly reduce the rigging you need to deal with. If shorthanded this is a very good thing. I am a cruiser, not a racer so I am not trying to get every last tenth of a knot. I just want to keep the boat moving in light air so I am more inclined to go for ease of handling than the ability to control sail shape perfectly.

By the way, the North sails website has a video that will help you see what you will need and how it is used. Or you can just google it and find lots of youtubes about this


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

Re: tack pennants

I would really recommend a line back to the cockpit (preferably 2:1 purchase) to control the tack. Close / beam reaching you want to bring the tack down close to pulpit. Broad reaching you want to ease the tack up. The tack strap keeps the tack pennant off the pulpit. You can attach the clew to the snap shackle and blow the tack, if necessary.

Also - when you fly chutes ensure that you keep the main. If you need to get the sail down using the dousing bag, you need to blanket the chute with the main. Also better balance. If you are in light air, center the main to get more air to the chute.


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

Quickstep192 said:


> Thanks for all the great information and follow on questions. My boat is a Quickstep 24'. It's a masthead rig, so I'm going to have to see what my options are up there to get above the headstay. I had planned on a symmetrical chute, largely because I had imagined that sailing an asymmetrical was challenging without a sprit, but cookwithgas has sort of disproven that, so I guess I should include requests for opinions for symmetrical versus asymmetrical.


No bow sprit needed.

Two people can easily sail an asymmetrical cruising chute, especially with a dousing bag.

Get a "real" spinnaker bag with the velcro closures and tabs. Attach the head to the middle tab and the clew and tack to the side tabs when packing. That makes it easier to find the 3 corners.


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## ScottUK (Aug 16, 2009)




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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

You’ll need the following if you currently have no spin gear. 
•	Spinnaker 
•	Pole
•	Topper
•	Downhaul
•	Twings x2
•	Sheets x2
•	Twing blocks x2
•	Twing cleats x2
•	Turning blocks 2 small for twings and 2 large for spin sheets
•	Spin halyard
•	Halyard clutch
•	Mast block
•	Mast exit plate
•	Turning block at base of mast or mast cleat. 
Do not go with an assym on that boat. You’ll never sail fast enough to make it worth wild. Go sym w/ a pole, it’s not that hard. I highly recommend twings on a sym boat. This upgrade could cost you anywhere from $800 to $3,000 or more depending on how Gucci you want to go.

Edit: if you need help spec'ing out the gear, let me know. I sail a 25 footer w/ a large frac rig and the hardware should be interchangable.


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

Nice list. A picture is worth ...


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## PaulinVictoria (Aug 23, 2009)

We race a J24 without a downhaul, use the tweakers to keep the pole in the right place, so you don't necessarily need to worry about a downhaul.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

I agree with Jackdale, and add another 1000 words for a symm spin....









Oh and Asym versus Sym? Well I am scouring for an Asym, because I always sail short handed, and nearly always solo.... and the Sym is a bear to launch/deploy/trim myself, however I still race so I am looking for an Asym, to reduce the number of "things to do" to get launched.

I use a tiller pilot to be my hands as I launch... it's not perfect, and as the wind pipes up, I won't launch, too many things can go wrong.

By my $0.02 is that if you are short handed the asym is easier... agreed that the sym lets you sail more angles. Also many people won't launch a spin, finding used ones on craigslist, and ebay is pretty easy.


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## jameswilson29 (Aug 15, 2009)

Jackdale's diagram is a set up for end-for-end jibes, Shnool's diagram is for dip pole jibing. On your size boat, you should use end-for-end jibes.

I second the recommendation for a symmetrical spinnaker over an asymmetrical if you intend to have only one. You can sail much deeper angles with a symmetrical as the pole projects the sail much better to windward.

My other recommendation is the importance of the tweakers/twings/barber hauls on the sheet and guy, especially if you are sailing short-handed or solo. They minimize oscillations, control the sail for jibing, and make overall spinnaker sail handling much easier.

Racing skippers often upgrade gear to obtain an edge, so you should be able to find used spinnaker gear and sails fairly cheaply on eBay, Craigslist, etc.


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