# 1979 C&c 30



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

I'm trying to whittle down my short list of the boats I've found so far and I need a little help with specs on a 1979 C&C 30.

This particular C&C 30 is going for a decent price (12k asking), but I have concerns about the deck. During my initial inspection I noted that every single stanchion is showing hairline gelcoat cracking around the bases. But they all seem to be solid, (no noticeable wiggle).

Does anyone know if the 1979 C&C 30 has a solid deck or a cored deck?

I'm assuming if it's a solid deck that backing plates, rebedding, and some gelcoat work will correct the problem and this isn't a serious structural issue. 

But if it's a cored deck and water has invaded those cracks, this boat could require some major $$$'s and deck repairs to correct the problem.


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

It has a cored deck, as do the vast majority of boats. BUT... The coring usually stops inboard of the toerail and the stanchions and toerail (which holds the boat together) are almost always mounted on solid fibreglass. In the case of a stanchion base with three screws, the inboard screw sometimes does pierce the core.

The crazing that you see at the stanchion bases is normal and not something to worry about too much. A surveyor can tell you what's going on there.

The link below will take you to a website that has vast amounts of information on C & C's:

C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

The C&C 30 Mark I is a wonderful boat, I owned a '77 for a number of years and I would buy it back in a minute. Craziing around the stanchions would not be unusual on most any boat of that age, and would not be a sign of weakness, nor increase the risk of a wet core. So ignore that concern and move on...

To the general concern that ANY older boat could have areas of wet decks from aged or improper bedded fittings. 99% of the boats you will look at will have balsa-cored decks, where testing for wet decks is one of the many reasons you hire a competent survey. 

$12k for a C&C 30 would be a lot of boat for little money, I would expect the boat to need some work or upgrades as models of that age typically list for twice that price. So don't expect perfection, you are buying onto a quality boat at a budget price, there'll be reasons why.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

It's on the top of my list of considerations for just that reason... It could use some upgrades to things like older style deck hardware, which could be done over time since everything there still works. The previous owner was afraid of the pressurized alcohol stove so it was taken out and tossed in a dumpster without a replacement. The ice box was broken at some point and removed. The teak needs to be refinished. And I'm sure the windows could probably stand to be rebedded. But the rest just appears to be cosmetic clean up.

I think my last real concern is the 16hp Yanmar. I can't really get a history on it other than the previous owner saying that she had it serviced once a year and didn't have any problems with it, (probably just an annual oil and filter change). And the marina owner said it came in under power so he knows that it was working before he hauled it. 

You definitely couldn't eat off of it, but at least she wasn't one of those people that spray paints the whole thing silver (including hoses) to try and hide the condition.

So if I assume 40 hours a year without any sort of rebuild ever being done, that would be about 1200 hours... What's the average life expectancy of this engine? 

What would I be looking at for an average rebuild/overhaul cost just to put it back into nearly good as new condition?


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

backcreeksailor said:


> ....
> What would I be looking at for an average rebuild/overhaul cost just to put it back into nearly good as new condition?


As a ballpark, you would spend about twice the purchase price difference between this boat and one of the sisterships listed at $28,000, which is to say in the area of $30,000, you might save half of this money if you did all the work yourself, although it would be the equivalent of a second job.

If you want to save some money...grab the $28,000 example right out, let the seller take the loss on all the upgrades they've made (assuming the boat is in fact an example worth $28,000). You buy one for only $12,000 and you either live happily with a tired puppy for the life of your ownership, or you get on the money train and spend, spend, spend. The cheap way to own a mint boat is to pay the premium to buy someone else's diamond...the expensive way is to do it yourself.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear. I was asking for the average cost to eventually rebuild/overhaul the 16hp Yanmar "Engine Only". 

For the rest of the boat, I'm fine with doing the labor myself over time since most of the work is cosmetic in nature and doesn't affect the boat's sailability. Getting out on the water with a boat that is seaworthy for only $12k doesn't sound like bad deal to me.

Just out of curiosity... Where did you come up with the 28K figure? Is that what you're seeing as an average price for this model and year boat?


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

backcreeksailor said:


> ...Just out of curiosity... Where did you come up with the 28K figure? Is that what you're seeing as an average price for this model and year boat?


Certainly not the average price, more what I'd call the mean high water price.

I used this search for reference 1972 C&C Boats For Sale

I'd say you are grossly underestimating the expense of upgrading an older boat...while the engine rebuild/replacement, at say $7-9,000, is the biggest single expenditure (given you are looking at a boat with a robust solid glass hull), it ain't hard to find another $20,000 in probable costs, if not made by a PO...but the learning experiences of buying cheap and paying again and again is one of the charms of boat ownership. It all depends on your expectations...


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

I'm not looking to restore the boat to the point where it's looks like a brand new boat. And I'm not trying to upgrade it to race ready condition or for long haul cruising. I just want to put a little lipstick on the pig so to speak and keep it sail-able and seaworthy mostly for Fair weather Chesapeake Bay pleasure sailing and the occasional overnight to St Michaels, Oxford, etc. 

I figure I'll keep it for a few years, and then take whatever I can get out of it to use as a down payment on my next boat.

Doesn't that seem like a reasonable expectation?


----------



## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

The Yanmar is a known reliable engine. Rebuilding is an option and certainly cheaper than a replacement. Is it freshwater cooled or raw water? A good insurance policy would to have a competent Yanmar engine guy go over it and do a compression test before you buy the the boat. 1200 hours is not that much if the boat has been properly maintained.

The $12,000 cost seems reasonable if the boat is in overall good condition. What condition are the hatches and portlights. Make sure the cockpit sole is thoroughly checked out by your surveyor. What about the sail inventory and roller furling. Replacing standing or running rigging can get expensive. 

Bottom line- make a spreadsheet of all that you thing would need to be replaced or repaired. Add the total cost to your purchase price and see if it makes any sense. My guess is that the total exceeds $18,000 you could do better with a different boat. Try looking for a Great Lakes boat. They usually have lot less wear for the same age boat.


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

30 C&C is a good solid boat for what you are looking for. Our 85 35 MKIII has a yanmar 30GM with 1200 hours and is just broken in. These engines with care go for 4 times that. Hoses, fuel water and oil pumps, injectors will cost about 3 grand. Good Yanmar dealer and mechanics in Rock Hall, and Mr Oliver in Stevensville are Yanmar specialists. Feel free to PM me.

Dave


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

Sanduskysailor said:


> The $12,000 cost seems reasonable if the boat is in overall good condition. What condition are the hatches and portlights. Make sure the cockpit sole is thoroughly checked out by your surveyor. What about the sail inventory and roller furling. Replacing standing or running rigging can get expensive.
> 
> Bottom line- make a spreadsheet of all that you thing would need to be replaced or repaired. Add the total cost to your purchase price and see if it makes any sense. My guess is that the total exceeds $18,000 you could do better with a different boat.


I'm doing just that right now... I went down for a second inspection with my digital camera today and took about 80 pictures of every nook, cranny, crack, chip, and smudge I could find on the boat. I'm putting together a list of what I found. The standing and running rigging are in good working order. The engine looks to be in fairly good shape, and the hull and deck have no major damage.

Most of what I'm finding seems to be cosmetic issues that I can fix over time like:

- gelcoat cracks around hardware that needs to be rebedded
- screws missing 
- mounting holes in the deck for things that were moved or removed over time that were plugged with caulk but never really sanded to blend in with the deck
- teak that could use some re-oiling or satin varnish
- sloppy pvc caulk around windows that need to be removed and rebedded properly

I'm probably a little anal when it comes to attention to detail. So I probably would need to fix things other people would just live with. I can see myself starting at one end of the boat and working to the other end on my free evenings knocking out each imperfection one by one.

I think I'll be putting a lot of sweat equity into this boat if I go ahead with an offer. But I think most of my expense is going to be in cleaning materials, caulk, gelcoat, epoxy, nuts&bolts, teak oil, wax, 3M pads, etc...


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I have a general rule regarding boats. It seems to have borne itself out over time : For every model of boat in decent condition, there is an average price. You may pay it all upfront or you may buy low pay it as you upgrade, but you will end up paying it.

So a C&C 30 is roughly a 30K boat. The one that you are going to buy for 12K is going to cost a fair bit to bring back. There will be fittings that are worn out, sails that need replacing, a stove of some kind to be fitted, teak and varnish to be purchased, etc., etc., ad nauseum. 

I am willing to wager that you'll spend at least 30K on her over a four to five year period. At her age, things will be worn out and unserviceable. If they had been replaced recently the boat would be selling for more money. If they were not particularly expensive, the current owner would have repaired them in order to sell the boat for a better price.

I don't wish to discourage you but you need to be aware that there are an awful lot of things that you can't see that could need work.. Get a good surveyor.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

The method to my madness is as follows:

1. Inspect her stem to stern myself for everything I can find on my own

2. Make an offer based on a fair balance between the asking price and the items that need to be fixed.

3. If the offer is accepted, make the actual follow through purchase contingent on the surveyor's report.

I fully understand the pay me now or pay me later concept of buying a used boat. I'm looking to the latter to get myself out on the water with a low entry fee. The boat just needs to be surveyed as structurally solid, sail-able, seaworthy, and the repairs that "are" needed are primarily cosmetic rather than structural or mechanical in nature.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

Can the hull # be derived from the HIN # (e.g. where the boat was in the building series for C&C 30's) ? Or do you have to find it somewhere else?

If so, how do you find it?


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

backcreeksailor said:


> ......The boat just needs to be surveyed as structurally solid, sail-able, seaworthy, and the repairs that "are" needed are primarily cosmetic rather than structural or mechanical in nature.


You are off on the right foot in that the C&C 30 Mark I is a very desirable boat, one well worth the care, attention, and investment dollars of a serious boater. Her sailing qualities will make you smile for years to come.

Two suggestions for your plan, include an engine survey (especially a compression test) and don't expect to make some sort of killing on the purchase price, understand you are buying a quality boat, it'll cost some dough...


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

I think 12k is a pretty good price when compared to the market values. I think the only reason it's selling this low is because the previous owner sailed her but never really did any kind of upkeep. So there are a lot of relatively minor cosmetic issues that make the boat not show so well as compared to many others that are on the spring market. But I'm looking past the minor imperfections at a very solid boat that just needs a little clean up and sweat equity to bring her back.

I'm definitely getting the boat surveyed. But I'm a first time boat buyer. So when you mention an "engine survey". Is the engine usually surveyed separately from the rest of the boat. Or does the typical $10-$15 per foot survey rate include everything (hull, deck, engine, rigging, etc...)?

*Question:* Typically, do you have the survey done before you make an offer, or after the offer is made and accepted (making the final purchase contingent on the survey results)?


----------



## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

Backcreek, make a fair offer contingent on acceptable survey. That way you can negotiate a better price to fix any non obvious issues. Late last year I bought a 1985 C&C 29-2 with an offer of 19k. After the survey the price was renegotiated to 14K to address some issues. This spring, the issues are being fixed with the 5K difference.


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

backcreeksailor said:


> .... Is the engine usually surveyed separately from the rest of the boat. Or does the typical $10-$15 per foot survey rate include everything (hull, deck, engine, rigging, etc...)?
> 
> *Question:* Typically, do you have the survey done before you make an offer, or after the offer is made and accepted (making the final purchase contingent on the survey results)?


Most surveyors do not survey the engine, they may include a general observation on condition, or on performance if a sea trial is done. Neither substitutes for the paid opinion of an expert diesel mechanic, especially the compression test (and trust me, I learned this fact the hard and very expensive way...). Depending on the boat surveyor and his expertise and scope, you may also want to hire a rigger to survey the rig.

You have the surveys done after your offer is accepted, the offer should allow a 4 weeks period for surveys, during which you can terminate the sale, with no explanation of why required. If a survey brings up a material, expensive surprise, after terminating the sale, you can make the seller aware of the surprise and offer to negotiate a new sale price that thakes the surprise into consideration.

See http://www.willismarine.com/uploads/103/YBAA_Purchase_and_Sale_Agreement_2008.pdf for a standard agreement, mark it up as needed for your circumstances. You can write in for the escrow amount to be released after a sea trial and/or delivery of all inventory if such seems necessary..

It's interesting that this agreement now has sale termination as the no-notice-received default at the end of the survey period, not acceptance, I think this new...


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

I've looked her over stem to stern twice and went through all the pre-survey inspection tips listed here at sailnet. So I'm going to take one last look at her today and review the last survey done back in 2003 before I go ahead and make an initial offer.

I talked to a marine surveyor about doing an engine survey on the Yanmar 2QM15 today and he told me that other than a visual inspection and startup test to make sure it starts easily, the tests that can be done on land are pretty minimal. He said it needs to be sea-trialed to really get anything out of a marine survey.

Is it worth paying a marine mechanic to start it up on the hard and look it over? Or is letting the hull surveyor do the visual checks as a part of the inspection he'll do anyway and just cranking it up on the hard from a cold start to make sure it fires right up good enough?


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

backcreeksailor said:


> ...before I go ahead and make an initial offer.
> ....
> Is it worth paying a marine mechanic to start it up on the hard and look it over? Or is letting the hull surveyor do the visual checks as a part of the inspection he'll do anyway and just cranking it up on the hard from a cold start to make sure it fires right up good enough?


Realize going into the offer that you should be ready for it to be your final offer..ie.e if accepted, you will be expected to pay that amount...don't assume the survey will give you license to reduce the agreed price, not to say that it may not.

You should talk with a good Yanmar mechanic about going over the engine to include a compression test. That the surveyor didn't recommend an engine survey, and in particular the compression test, causes me to question his/her level of expertise and to recommend that you find someone else. I'll bet if you look at one of his surveys, he disallows any responsibility for engine condition (and probably rig too..) as seems common for hull surveys.


----------



## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

I wouldn't worry too much about gelcoat cracks on the deck of C&C of that vintage. I just would be very careful about soft spots and get a good survey.

Also, if you haven't fixed up an old boat yourself, I would caution that it tends to cost more than you expect and, in the long run, it is usually cheaper to pay more for one that has already had the work done.

Oh, and I had a very good experience with a similar Yanmar on my C&C.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

*What do you make of this...?*

Ok, I made my 3rd trip to see the boat today and I got a copy of its last 2003 survey, which didn't appear to be too extensive. But I noticed something today that hadn't caught my eye before and I'd like to get some opinions

When I was walking around the boat and looking down the hull, I noticed shallow, but noticeable vertical indentations amidship on both sides of the hull going from the water line upward about 2.5 feet. I'd say they were about 3-4" wide and when I knocked on them with my knuckles, there was a definite lack of resonance as compared to the rest of the hull.

At first I thought it had been t-boned and repaired until I noticed it was on both sides. And then it wasn't until I got home and zoomed in on the pictures I've been taking during each visit, that I noticed both of these indentations line up with the Chainplates/Shrouds. There's a big vertical glassed in mounting bracket that can be seen on the inside of the hull where the chainplates are anchored that's right behind where these external indentations are.

Is this normal, or something I should be concerned about?


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

backcreeksailor said:


> ...
> Is this normal, or something I should be concerned about?


Those dimples indicate that the rig has been over-tensioned, I've seen them on a number of raced boats, including another C&C30. That condition deserves close review by a professional, I don't know whether the problem is a throw-out or not, more subject material calling for an expert surveyor. i would suspect they might factor into the relatively attractive price of the boat (again, the challenge in buying a boat is to get what you pay for...).

I know the owner of the dimpled C&C 30 set the boat up on the hard with an auto jack cranked up between the knees to push out the dimples, I don't know how that turned out.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

*Any Pro Bono Surveyor's here on Sailnet?*

Would anyone that's actually a surveyor here consider taking 5 minutes to read through the 51 defects I've found on this boat and give me a quick objective opinion (via private email) as to what a reasonable offer would be based on what I've found and/or whether I should give this particular boat a pass?

It's a 1-1/4 page numbered list word document. If you'd be willing to help out, just PM me with your regular email address and I'll be happy to send the list to you.


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

> Would anyone that's actually a surveyor here consider taking 5 minutes to read through the 51 defects I've found on this boat and give me a quick objective opinion (via private email) as to what a reasonable offer would be based on what I've found and/or whether I should give this particular boat a pass?


You're asking someone to work for you for free. What would you do if a stranger came up to you and asked you to spend two or three hours of your time helping them for nothing ??

I'll be brashly honest here. If you only have 12K you can't afford a 30 foot boat. 30 foot boats cost about 30 thousand dollars and upwards. If someone is selling a well-known and well-respected vessel for so much below market value it is because the boat needs a lot of work. It will cost you far, far more than you can realise to bring that boat up to snuff.

If it was an amazing deal it would never have been on the market long enough for you to find it.

Take the money that you have and buy a decent 22 footer. You'll have enough left over to buy the things that it will need, and maintain it properly for a few years. When you have $30,000.00 to spend AND another $5,000.00 a year (absolute minimum) to keep the boat going, buy a 30 footer.

Good Luck !


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

LOL... reading it might take five minutes, but a decent reply is surely going to take at least an hour, given your 51 defects...either do a pre-survey inspection yourself, and determine whether the boat is worthy of getting a survey on, or pass on it. Don't ask people to work for free.



backcreeksailor said:


> Would anyone that's actually a surveyor here consider taking 5 minutes to read through the 51 defects I've found on this boat and give me a quick objective opinion (via private email) as to what a reasonable offer would be based on what I've found and/or whether I should give this particular boat a pass?
> 
> It's a 1-1/4 page numbered list word document. If you'd be willing to help out, just PM me with your regular email address and I'll be happy to send the list to you.


----------



## cnc33voodoo (May 15, 2008)

wow, if this boat had tires you would be kicking them flat.
3 visits to the boat and still no survey?


----------



## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

backcreeksailor said:


> Would anyone that's actually a surveyor here consider taking 5 minutes to read through the 51 defects I've found on this boat and give me a quick objective opinion (via private email) as to what a reasonable offer would be based on what I've found and/or whether I should give this particular boat a pass?
> 
> It's a 1-1/4 page numbered list word document. If you'd be willing to help out, just PM me with your regular email address and I'll be happy to send the list to you.


BCS: Invest in a survey. There is such a thing as being penny wise. And remember the asking price for the boat. That price already reflects that the boat may need some substantial work.

You wouldn't ask for free medical or legal advice on the internet, would you? A survey could be the best few hundred bucks you'll ever invest.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

I was asking for 5 minutes worth of someone's time and an opinion, nothing more. And I had no intention of using any response I got back in lieu of an actual survey.

If I'm over kicking the tires, it's just because I don't part with large sums of money for anything without really doing my homework first. And since this will be the first sailboat I've ever purchased, there was a lot of homework to do so that I could be reasonably knowledgeable before making an offer.


----------



## CBinRI (May 17, 2004)

It sounds like you are definitely doing your homework but that you have reached the point where you need the help of a professional. I hope it works out for you. I had a C&C of that vintage and it was a great boat. Good luck.


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

sailingfool said:


> The C&C 30 Mark I is a wonderful boat,...
> $12k for a C&C 30 would be a lot of boat for little money, I would expect the boat to need some work or upgrades as models of that age typically list for twice that price. So don't expect perfection, you are buying onto a quality boat at a budget price, there'll be reasons why.


I just gotta pull that quote back down, even though it's mine.

I strongly recommend you take a week's break on this boat, and go and see several other C&C 30's, especially one of the mid-$20K price examples. There's is no substitute for building your own perspective about the boat in hand. You may decide that spending more money upfront is the right way to go, or confirm that the boat you've been looking at is worth taking some risks, even as you find out what they'll cost you.

See 2 or 3 other C&C 30s and you'll establish some personal, informed comfort about the right direction for this boat.


----------



## cnc33voodoo (May 15, 2008)

backcreeksailor said:


> I was asking for 5 minutes worth of someone's time and an opinion, nothing more. And I had no intention of using any response I got back in lieu of an actual survey.
> 
> If I'm over kicking the tires, it's just because I don't part with large sums of money for anything without really doing my homework first. And since this will be the first sailboat I've ever purchased, there was a lot of homework to do so that I could be reasonably knowledgeable before making an offer.


Do you ask your mechanic to take time and diagnose your car over the net?
Your asking for a free professional opinon that will take alot more than 5 minutes if the answer is worth anything.let the surveyer do your homework for you.
You can/should pay to have a professional go thru the boat with you and ask all the questions you like and do it fast because if the boat is any good it wont be around long for that price.
Without viewing the boat anything someone tells you is useless.
If your worried about the money there is no better way to protect yourself.
The 30 is a great boat and for a 12k price tag you should jump on it if the survey checks out.


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

As I said, reading the document may take 5 minutes, but any reply that has anything of value in it is going to take considerably more time... and asking someone to spend their time to do so is an imposition.

If you're having serious questions about the boat, that is probably a good indication that you should walk away. The exceptionally low asking price tends to indicate that there is likely something or several somethings wrong with the boat, as if there were not something seriously wrong with the boat, it would not still be on the market.



backcreeksailor said:


> I was asking for 5 minutes worth of someone's time and an opinion, nothing more. And I had no intention of using any response I got back in lieu of an actual survey.
> 
> If I'm over kicking the tires, it's just because I don't part with large sums of money for anything without really doing my homework first. And since this will be the first sailboat I've ever purchased, there was a lot of homework to do so that I could be reasonably knowledgeable before making an offer.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

Offer accepted... Surveyor being scheduled... 

Stay tuned... ;-)


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Good luck...


----------



## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

In stead of staring at the boat of yuour immediate desire this weekend, I still thinkj you should spinn around and see another one or two other C&C 30s.

You will either confirm you are on the right track, or learn something worth learning.


----------



## Csobanc (Feb 27, 2009)

backcreeksailor said:


> Offer accepted... Surveyor being scheduled...
> 
> Stay tuned... ;-)


I am too will be in the market to buy my first boat... Since I spent the last 20 some mins reading the thread, would you tell us what the $$$ was you offered and what the contingent accepted price is? Maybe you could post some pictures of the boat as well...

Regards.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

sailingfool said:


> In stead of staring at the boat of yuour immediate desire this weekend, I still thinkj you should spinn around and see another one or two other C&C 30s.
> 
> You will either confirm you are on the right track, or learn something worth learning.


Honestly, I've looked around... ALOT... And there just aren't any reasonably close C&C 30's on the market right now. Anything else out there for sale would require either overland shipping or one hell of a coastal cruise to get it back to Annapolis.

And before you ask... Yes, I've looked at lots of other 30 footers from other manufacturers, both online and up close and personal. But most of what I found were cruisers not racer/cruisers, (going on average PHRF numbers for a rough guide on potential speed).

But price-wise, I think I did a good job of getting the owner to accept a fair offer when comparing the condition of this boat to the other C&C 30's I saw online.

******

And to answer the last poster... Since the deal hasn't actually gone through yet, I don't think it's a good idea to be posting prices or pictures in public forums just yet.


----------



## dreuge (Sep 18, 2009)

Hi,

I recently read through this post, and I am curious now that much time has passed, how thing have turned out.


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

I knew the owner had already purchased another boat and this one was sitting on the hard for what was about to be the second season in a row. So I actually made a low ball offer of 10k and the owner accepted it.

She's been rechristened "Rum Monkey" and she's spent the last two seasons out on the bay with relatively no substantial expenses necessary other than the elbow grease of cleaning her up inside & out, putting some new varnish on the outside teak, and standard upkeep maintenance for a Yanmar.

Life is Good ! ;-)


----------



## backcreeksailor (Mar 9, 2009)

*A few pics... ;-)*


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Congrats.


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Actually we have passed by you a few times last summer when we were down in Annapolis, and also on a trip to the Rhode Rive. Glad you are enjoying your C&C. I am biased but those of the 70/ 80s era were generally great boats.

Come join us when we get together on our Sailnet raft ups or picture shoots. The more the merrier, If you are ever north come look us up at the MYC on Rock Creek.

Dave


----------

