# Yanmar Starter



## dave6330 (Aug 16, 2006)

I have question reference my three cylinder yanmar auxiliary. The startup is fairly straightforward, key on, make sure the fuel shut off handle is not pulled and push the start button. The motor has no glow plugs. 

Often (but not always), when I press the start button, nothing happens...I have to push the button several times before the starter finally kicks in and turns the engine over. This isn't a real problem (yet) but it is a little annoying and I'm wondering if this is normal or is it an indication that I have a problem.


V/R

Dave

P. S. I'm hoping I'm not demonstrating CRS and have already asked this question.


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## Vasco (Sep 24, 2006)

Search the archives! This question has been addressed many times, most recently about three days ago.


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## dave6330 (Aug 16, 2006)

Thanks Rick - I had a feeling it had already been adressed.

V/R

Dave


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## funsailthekeys (May 15, 2008)

*starter*

My first guess is the starter solenoid. If it doesn't start with the push button then arc a screw driver across the stater cable. If it works, this will most likely confirm a bad solenoid. They are easy to change. Less likely is the push button, you can arc across it in the same way. They make a thing called a stater button that can be bought at most any auto parts store. You can use this instead of hand tools. It simply clamps on each end then you push the top button, no sparks. Hope this helps.


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## mwrohde (Dec 1, 2006)

I guess I'll be searching the archives, too. I didn't see the thread recently and mine does the same thing.


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## speciald (Mar 27, 2007)

Bang on the starter solenoid with a rubber mallet. A sticky solenoid is usually the cause of the problem you describe


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## badsanta (Oct 16, 2006)

I have not had a problem with mine, But I have read that sometimes as the boat ages you get corrosion and resestance on the wiring and may not pass enough elec from the switch to the starter selinoid. The wiring may need to be replaced or bypassed. Most any basic diesel boat repair book will describe how to test and repair this. It may be as easy as cleaning the battery terminals and checking for loose wires.


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## dave6330 (Aug 16, 2006)

Thanks All!!!

Definitely on my 'to do' list.

Every day on the boat is a learning experience.

V/R

Dave


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## Vasco (Sep 24, 2006)

ok for those who don't want to do a search here it is all again. This is a collection of many postings pertaining to Yanmar starter problems. Forgot where I got it all from so can't attribute it.

Rick,
Don't swap starters. It's not the problem.
Sitting next to the starter are two molded connectors. The larger one has two larger pins in it. Spread the pins back apart. There is a similar connector about a foot off of the panel. Do the same there.
This is a normal problem with the older Yanmar panels and harnesses.
__________________







PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 7:41 pm Post subject: hard starting Reply with quote
The problem with aging Yanmars not engaging the starter is the wiring. Adding a relay to the starter solves the problem. You can use a continuous duty marine solenoid from West Marine or pick one up at NAPA for the purpose.

The solenoid should have four posts, two high amp, two low amp. On the low amp circuit, connect the starter key wire to one post, and ground the second post. Enaging the key will trip this circuit. On the high amp side, connect a #8 guage wire from the solenoid to the battey/alternator post on the starter motor. Then from the second high amp post run a #8 guage wire back to the post on the starter where the wire from the key originally came from.

Engaging the key will trip the low amp circuit which in turm engages the high amp connection which gives you a very healthy current to the starter solenoid.

Another thing you can do is add a remote start switch (for example near the engine) by connecting a second switch (make sure it is fused) beyween the battery side of the high amp circuit on the solenoid and the key side of the low amp circuit.
Back to top 

mjs2
Guest






PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2005 12:05 pm Post subject: starter problem Reply with quote
I had the same problem--each time I heard a click from the starter, but it wouldn't start turning the motor. I had to hit the start button multiple times, and eventually it would start. Last year I bought a new starter and replaced it, but still had the same problem. Then I read some of the other posts that mentioned that the wires were not sufficiently thick to handle the current from the switch to the solenoid, and they recommended putting in a second solenoid. I found it hard to believe that this would work because the wire seems to be around 12 gauge already which you would think is sufficient, but I figured I'd try it and I purchased a solenoid model COLE HERSEE 24117-01-BP 201337 from west marine, and installed it yesterday. I used thick cables 4 gauge from the battery switch to the solenoid, and 10 gauge from the solenoid to the starter (although you may want to go to 4 gauge for both). Then tested it 4 times-- each time the engine started on the first try. So this fixed my problem.
Back to top 
Sorry to continue this thread on the Yanmar starting problem, but I'm 12 volt challenged as well, and a bit confused on how to rewire the problem away.

My 1988 IP31 has the 3GM30F engine, and I've had this oft-described starting problem for most of this boats life. I'm in agreement that the under spec'd wiring harness is the problem, and I would throw in the cheap 30 amp fuse holder, that appears to be 16 gauge wire between the 10 or 12 gauge wiring running from the key switch to the starter solenoid. I bought the Cole Hersee #24117 solenoid, and after tracing my wiring from starter button, key switch, alternator and starter solenoid, and then reviewing the wiring setup from "dgrosz" (4/23/05), and "mjs2" (5/26/05), I'm still confused.

"mjs2" is running a wire from the "battery switch" (?) to the solenoid. I assume he meant the starter key switch. "dgrosz" describes grounding the CH solenoid on one low post, then connect the other low post to the starter key (assume at the red wire post). Then from the CH high post, run a wire to the starter solenoid post where the current red fused wire and battery cable terminal are attached. That would replace the red wire running up to the starter solenoid, via the questionable wiring harness and fuse connector. He then connects the other high post on the CH solenoid to the alternator battery ("BAT") terminal. I see were this takes the red wire and its fuse from the wiring harness out of the mix. I also assume that the existing starter solenoid mounted on the starter stays in place. Neither really states that. I assume the CH solenoid and heavier wire (I'll use 8 gauge) is doing nothing more than to get away from the wiring harness (at least the red wire key-to-starter solenoid part of it). If I'm correct up to this point, it would appear to me that I need to remove the red wire running from the alternator/BAT terminal to the battery power terminal on the existing starter solenoid. Do I have this right ? Are there different wiring harnesses by boat manufacturer ? (Note, a 1987 Cal 33 in my boat yard has same engine and wiring harness, and the same problem) If I'm wrong, can someone describe the setup simply for a boat with the Yanmar panel with a starter button and key switch ? Up here in RI, I will not be firing up the engine for another couple of weeks, and would like to avoid blowing out something.	

Starter switch wiring...

This seems to be a common problem on Yanmars. I have it from time-to-time on my 4 cylinder 4JH-TE. I have done a whole bunch of research on it, and the general consensus is that the problem is caused by the wiring to the starter solenoid.
Yanmar starter solenoids have two windings, a high current coil that pulls the solenoid in (and then is turned off), and a lower current "holding" coil that holds the plunger in place. The result is a brief high current spike that happens as you push the starter button.
If the wiring to the starter button is too long, too smaller gage, or the starter switch has developed some contact resistance, the added resistance will not allow sufficient current through the solenoid to pull-in adequately during the initial current spike (Ohm's Law).
The general consensus (which I have not yet adopted) is to install an automotive type relay close to the engine, and use heavier gage wire from the battery, through the relay contacts, to the starter solenoid. In other words, the starter switch merely closes the relay, which then supplies the initial current surge through a low resistance path.
Whether this is your problem I can't say, but there are numerous threads around on various forums that indicate that this is the fix.

It's on my "to-do" list...

For the last few years I have had an intermittent starting problem. The boat would start every time while at the dock, while hooked into shore power. However, when out on the water for an hour or so, the boat may start or may not. I would then shut down all instruments, fridge, cabin lights or anything else that was ?on?. After a few minutes the boat might start or might not start. I started keeping track of temperature, humidity, length of time off the dock, etc. ? I couldn?t find a pattern. It was very frustrating; a few times I would have to wait 15 minutes before it would start.

I had the same problem this weekend in Raritan Bay, filled to the gills with fishing boats and then the wind died off, the perfect time to start the engine and dodge the always moving fishing boats. When I pushed the start button ? nothing! I had even removed the power for the fans and dash ? figuring I would get more power to the starter solenoid?still nothing. I was done; it had to be fixed ASAP.

I read several dozen articles regarding this problem, some of which suggested grinding down the pins on the starter and starter solenoid. Others, suggested it was due to corrosion on the wires in the starting loop, key switch, momentary on (push button) and the wire leading to the starter solenoid. I found no corrosion and replaced both the key start and push button ? no success, I still had starting problems. There were still more articles blaming the problem on the batteries - new AGM batteries installed and I still have the problem....

The solution: replace the 12 awg wire with a 10 awg wire from the key switch to the push button and replace the second 12 awg from push button to the starter solenoid. It was real easy and once you have all the necessary replacement parts, it takes about 15 minutes to fix.

From the key switch there is a 10 awg wire coming in, on the other terminal there are three wires, a solid red, red with black stripe and white. The red with black stripe and solid red are for powering the fans and dash (alarm, lights and gauges). The white runs to the momentary on with another white 12 awg wire, from the second terminal, running to the starter solenoid. The first step was to fish, using an electricians ?fish tape?, the wire through the console to the aft section of the boat. After fishing the wire thru, the connections were simple, 4 10-12 awg connectors with 8 awg rings.

I left the boat on for about an hour, with everything ?on? (water pumps, anchor lights, all cabin lights, radio?s, hot water heater, autopilot, etc). The boat started three times with ease. The true test will come later this week when I am out for a two hour sail and she either starts or doesn?t on the first try!

GM Starting Problems QED

As I had documented in an earlier post, I had intermittent starting problems, when you hit the push button to start the engine, nothing would happen. The solution was to replace the 12AWG wires from the key switch to the push button and from the push button to the starter solenoid with 10AWG wires.

I had the boat out recently and the problem seems to be resolved. I actually started the boat several times during a recent cruise. It’s really nice to know that you engine is there right when you need it.

Chris - the 8AWG ring connector is a size measurement – you have a 10AWG wire connection with an 8AWG ring connector, if the ring connector is to big you won’t get “full” contact on the keyed and push button wire posts.


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## Vasco (Sep 24, 2006)

It's definitely NOT the fuel system when you push the button and the starter does no crank. It's an electrical problem. If the starter cranks and the engine does not fire it might be a fuel problem. If you read the original post it deals with cases where you push the button and NOTHING happens.


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## dave6330 (Aug 16, 2006)

Thanks Rick - I'm going to use your post to trouble shoot the wiring harness REAL soon! Question though: Does this sort of thing get worse with time or am I in kind of a steady state holding pattern? The answer will drive the priority I give this particular maintenance task....


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## Vasco (Sep 24, 2006)

It gets worse as the wiring deteriorates. Many folks, such as I, tolerated it for years but in the backs of our minds we're always worried about the time we really need a start and nothing happens. Eventually we fix it, not a difficult task.


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## welshwind (Feb 27, 2005)

I just posted my recent experience and what appears to have solved the problem in another thread. Check the switch posts and make sure they are secure.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Guys, My engine just sputtered and stopped. I kept pressing the starter button but only to hear the engine whine like it was trying to start....no avail. The engine was not out of fuel, and now I can not even get the engine to turn over. Any advice out there?


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Oh sorry, 1 cylinder Yanmar 7.5 hp


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

Just because there is fuel in the tank it doesn't mean it's getting to the cylinder. Could be a fuel feed problem, filters possibly. If you have an electric fuel pump like I do on my Yanmar YSE8 it could be a wire off it or a bad connection. Check to see that the fuel pump is running with the ignition turned on. All I can think of besides this is high pressure pump but try the other ideas (the less expensive ones  ) first. Hope this helps.
Brian


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

Also, you're best to start a new thread when you have another question as I only stumbled onto this by mistake. Most I think would see it's an old thread and give it a pass. 
Brian
And welcome to Sailnet


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## flechtsp (May 23, 2006)

*Yanmar 2GM20 Starter Problem*

From the many posts it is clear that this is a common problem with Yanmar engines as they begin to age. My problem was the same as that reported by so many others. Frequently, at the most inopportune time, the engine would fail to start with no response from the starter button. Eventually, after 30 to 120 seconds, the engine would finally kick over.

I can attest to the fix that others have suggested. Installation of a relay between the starter button and the starter solenoid solved the problem. Now the engine starts without fail even after several hours of sailing with electronics and refrigerator drawing on the batteries. It takes a couple of hours to install a 30 amp relay as close to the starter solenoid as possible, using 10 gauge wiring to minimize any voltage drop between the relay and the starter.

I don't know if corrosion or just undersized wiring caused the problem, but a couple of hours of labor and $35 worth of parts and a few feet of heavier gauge wire did the trick for me on my Beneteau 311.

The folks at Inlet Marine Services were kind enough to provide a wiring diagram and suggest which Carquest relay and pigtail will work. Contact them at inletmarineservices at comcast.net


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## sailgait (Feb 23, 2010)

Thank you to everyone who knowledgeably contributed to this thread. 

I have a 3GM30F -- Installed in 2000. Long story short: nothing happened when I pushed the starter button on the panel. The remote starter down below also did nothing. 

I feared something serious and outside of my skills ability to diagnose or repair. But before calling the (new) yard, I asked the internet about the problem & found this thread. 

The problem was the white wire, but w/a slightly different spin. The motor was taken out last year to install new new motor mounts. The (old) yard did a poor reinstallation job. (Did I mention, for example, the bolts on the drive shaft came off after about 3 hours of operation?) 

With your help on this thread, I learned how to track down the white wire and discovered the screw holding it onto the solenoid had loosened. (Surprise, surprise. Thank you former boat yard). 

This explained why both the switch on the control panel and the remote switch down below didn't work. 

Anyway, I just wanted to send a thanks along.


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## Sailgreen1234 (Dec 16, 2015)

Hi all-
Can I get a quick clarification from somebody? I've looked at this post, diagrams, and other reasearch but want to be sure. I have Universal M-25 with the same "press the starter and nothing happens until you hit it repeatedly". I'm guessing its a voltage drop, etc. I'm going to either run a new red/yellow from starter pluger to starter solenoid or add slave starter solenoid (Cole Hersee). 
First, when adding the Cole Hersee, I undertand that the smaller posts go to ground and to the yellow/red. Does it matter which of the two posts I attach these to?

Second, with respect to the bigger posts, I attach an 8 gauge to the empty post on the starter solenoid?? And the other I attach the other directly to the Starter post (ie - not the solenoid)?

The reason that I ask is because language used in a post was unclear to me... It says "Run a No. 8 wire from the starter post to a large terminal on the solenoid" - Does this mean the solenoid ... or the actual starter? 

Also, it says "and another No. 8 from the other post to the start terminal on the starter solenoid." - Which one is the "start terminal on the solenoid"? Does this mean the one used by other Reds or the blank one? 

btw- Another post says "Connect one of the switched terminals to the battery by building a cable that connects the main battery cable at the starter to the relay. Connect the other switched terminal to the starter solenoid, and you're done."

Thanks!
SG


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## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

Sailgreen, I note you are new to Sailnet (Welcome!) and suspect you may not be aware of issues with some of the Universal wiring harnesses. If may be related to your problem. In any case read this.
Universal Diesel Wiring Harness Upgrade Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com


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## Vasco (Sep 24, 2006)

Here's how to install a starter relay. I did not write this Mark from Sailblog - It's Irie did.

The relay part# I use:
Tyco
12V
V23234-A0001-X032

There are 5 pins on the relay:

87 - Jumper to starter male spade terminal
86 - Wire from Yanmar panel (used to go directly to starter)
30 - Positive jumper from large positive cable attached to starter.
85 - To Ground
87a - Not used

So, without this relay, you have 1 large nut on your starter, with a rather thick positive cable on it (this should come from your start battery). And, you should have 1 smaller cable, with a spade female disconnect on it that is connected to a spade post on the starter (this will come from the Yanmar engine panel at your helm station).

You need to remove this wire from the spade on the starter, connect it to position 86 on the relay. Then you make two short runs of cable, one going back to that spade male terminal on the starter from position 87, and another one from the big nut/positive cable on the starter to position 30 on the relay. Then a short ground wire to your engine ground from position 85 on the relay.


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