# Dyer Dhow



## kevinweyl (Mar 13, 2011)

I am looking for a used (or new...) center board for a 9' Dyer Dhow ('68)

Doesn't have to be genuine Dyer as I am not restoring...just want to sail her!

Thanks...

Kevin

413-575-7938
[email protected]
Madison, CT


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## Michael K (Feb 27, 2006)

Why not build one? Lowes sells cedar boards; cut to shape, epoxy and glass. For a really nice handle on top go to Home Depot and get a foot long piece of oak bannister.


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

Better bet might be some plywood: less chance of warpage after it's been put together. Two sheets, screwed/glued together cutout for counterweight and also hole for control lever, glass it up, paint, & done.


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

Kevin,
A friend of mine has an old DD (8' I think) that I made a center board (CB) for. During the time I had to research this (about 2 years, believe it or not) I discovered that DD can a few variations for the CB. My friends DD had a dagger board type CB (plunges straight down) but some have a trunk that the CB can be raised into and tucks into (I'll attach a pic of this type).
If you research the Mystic Seaport Museum's website you will find they operate a fleet of 50 DD's for a youth sailing program.
I used 1/2" plywood for the CB stock (admittedly not the best choice for this application - but cheap) and coated it with marine epoxy. Another coat of epoxy with cloth would have been the way to go but maybe I'll get around to that.


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## bljones (Oct 13, 2008)

Or, you could buy one from Dyer directly.

http://www.dyerboats.com/DDPartsPriceListMay2008.pdf


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## kevinweyl (Mar 13, 2011)

Thanks guys for the great info...especially CalebD (love the Gilligan shot!) for the picture and specs...I'll try to make one...any other leads and/or ideas will be welcome here...water's gettin' warmer here off the Connecticut Shoreline and the air too...need to get 'er in!!!


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

One word of caution. Having made wooden centerboards, they tend to float up if not weighted. There are several tricks for weighing a centerboard, but traditionally the weight was a lead or bronze puck. When I had to make a lead puck I have melted down spent bullets gotten from a shooting range or old wheel weights from a tire store. The trick is to make a mold with a hole saw, and use the same hole saw to make the hole in the rudder. 

Jeff


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

*Mystic Seaport*



bljones said:


> Or, you could buy one from Dyer directly.
> 
> http://www.dyerboats.com/DDPartsPriceListMay2008.pdf


I was going to mention this but the prices of replacement genuine DD parts are pretty high.

To give credit where credit is due I got that photo from a fellow named Matt who is involved with the youth sailing program at Mystic Seaport. If you are in CT you should check them out.
Mystic Seaport: The Museum of America and the Sea™ : Community Sailing Classes (Ages 8-14)


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## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

The 8' Dyer Dinghy with a daggerboard is NOT the same boat as the 9' Dyer Dhow. Caleb's design with the attached handle on top might work in the standard Dyer Dhow, but would require slitting the upper edge of the centerboard trunk to admit the handle. The standard Dhow setup has a separate handle attached to the side of the trunk for raising & lowering the board, and a squared hole in the board to engage the side handle and to serve as the pivot point. Jeff's suggestion to use a hole saw bit to make both the hole in the centerboard and to mold the counterweight itself is elegant.


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

I've picked up a retired Dyer Dhow from Mystic Seaport via sealed bid at least 30 years ago. It was at least 10 years old when I acquired it. It has what I believe to be the original plywood centerboard. This is such a simple part, it is probably worth your while to buy a replacement from the Dyer folks.

It is not weighted, by the way. I keep it from kicking up by the use of a knotted light weight bungie cord secured on the thwart seat. You pull the centerboard handle to the upright position and loop the elastic cord and that's it!. I paint it every 15 years, whether it needs it or not.

I've had the Dyer folks (dba The Anchorage, Inc.)replace my oak rub rail twice, and they are not cheap, but they know what they are doing and are reasonable to deal with. A new centerboard, with a bronze insert (presumably to keep the pivot pin from chewing up the plywood) for the 9' Dyer Dhow is $138, per the currently-posted price list (www.dyerboats.com/DDPartsPriceListMay2008.pdf). You can also call them to discuss options--maybe even a used centerboard--at (401) 245-3300. (For the record, I have no connection with The Anchorage, inc., other that being a satisfied customer.)


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

paulk brings up a good point. I am not entirely confident which model DD that center board is from, whether it is an 8' or 9' boat. 
I built a plunging dagger board for my friends old DD as it did not have the trunk which allows the board to be raised by pushing the handle forward while the board pivots up underneath. 
Don't take the dimensions from the photo I posted unless you are sure your boat it set up for this type of center board. I used the dimensions as guidelines for the dagger board I made. The center board stock was 1/2" on my friends old boat so I used 15/32 plywood.


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

The 7'11" Dyer Dink has a daggerboard, but the 9' Dyer Dhow has a centerboard. My centerboard is 3/8" thick: the centerboard trunk will not accommodate a 1/2" thick board. I just measured my Dhow to put this issue to rest.


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## reggieo (Aug 7, 2011)

How to get the 9' Dhow centerboard out to replace it? The screws seem copper?! Too Soft.


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

*DD centerboard pin*

As I recall when I refurbished my 9' Dhow more than 10 years ago, the 25+yr old centerboard pin was a very tired, bronze machine screw with weather-beaten rubber washers next to the trunk.

I used a stainless steel replacement screw and washers with a nylock nut. I think I found some large faucet washers at a hardware store to provide a water seal next to the trunk. This system has worked well and looks like it will go another 10 years.


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## compassrose888 (Dec 9, 2015)

I have one for sale. 9' 1960's vintage. New shrouds for mast. Includes spare parts, sail, mast/boom.
email me if interested [email protected]


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## jeremiahblatz (Sep 23, 2013)

I wonder if OP is still looking, 4 years on...


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

Jeff_H said:


> One word of caution. Having made wooden centerboards, they tend to float up if not weighted. There are several tricks for weighing a centerboard, but traditionally the weight was a lead or bronze puck. When I had to make a lead puck I have melted down spent bullets gotten from a shooting range or old wheel weights from a tire store. The trick is to make a mold with a hole saw, and use the same hole saw to make the hole in the rudder.
> 
> Jeff


This is an old thread, but in case anyone is checking in on DD centerboards, one way to keep the plywood CB down is to tie a length of thin bungee cord around the thwart seat. when you lower the CB, the handle comes against the thwart seat and you would then stretch it over the handle to keep the CB down.


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