# 1975 Tartan 30-C Resto



## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Hello everyone. I recently purchased a very solid Tartan 30-C for racing and cruising. I will be upgrading a lot of systems and stripping old hardware/repainting a lot of parts/deck/mast. Figured most would enjoy a good old restoration thread so if your so inclined feel free to comment and follow along. Pictures to follow soon...


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

That's a sweet boat, well worth time and money!


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

sailingfool said:


> That's a sweet boat, well worth time and money!


I agree! And am looking forward to next spring. Here are some pictures as she lies right now. So far I have been working on the spars and have stripped/repainted the boom with interlux perfection. The mast is next. Upon removing the mast mounted winches I found 1 which was seized and not rebuildable but luckily found the same model from the same year on ebay. After I complete the mast I will be removing all deck hardware and rebedding with butyl.


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## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

That's one really nice boat. Whoever the PO or POs were, they kept it in extraordinary condition. So many boats of this vintage are real wrecks and I gasp when I see pictures. I really like that engine arrangement - so easy to access and low in the boat.

Your work area is awesome. I would kill to have an indoor shed on which to maintain _Victoria_.

You'll be sailing in no time.


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

The engine access on the T 30 really is phenomenal. 
Looks like your engine has a HX (fresh water cooled). Is that a diesel?
Great shop.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Sabreman said:


> Your work area is awesome. I would kill to have an indoor shed ...


My thoughts exactly!.. what a great environment for a project like that.. and at that she's not really so much of a 'project' compared to many.

Nice job on the boom... do you paint cars too?? (peeking in the background).. Careful about too many time consuming hobbies!!


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Haha too many projects? Never! The car in the background is just about ready for paint but I will not be painting her myself. I have a knack for spars as that was my job for a few years at a local boat yard when I was younger. Nothing like a heated shop with a 16' door and all the tools in the world to help along any type of project. I used to work out of a quonset hut but finally said enough was enough and upgraded to the bay. The PO was a really nice older fellow who took very good care of the boat so there really is minimal work to be done. Mostly cosmetic as there are zero soft spots on this boat but I may get involved with the chain plates later in the year. Just finished prepping the aluminum piece on the bow(not sure of the name of this piece...anyone?) Old chock must of snapped off at some point and the other was frozen in place so out came the drill. Drilled the old bolts out and sanded it down with 100 grit. Was thinking of using the same paint(different color) as for the mast with an epoxy primecoat and a few coats of perfection.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

CalebD said:


> The engine access on the T 30 really is phenomenal.
> Looks like your engine has a HX (fresh water cooled). Is that a diesel?
> Great shop.


Yes its a 1989 Universal Diesel with fresh water cooling. Its actually giving me a bit of a fit right now as I am having trouble getting it to turn over. The PO admitted there was a wiring issue that let it fire right up sometimes but other times it wouldn't turn over. I have chased the wiring back to the starter and all looks ok so I was thinking it may be an issue with the control panel. When I hold the glow plug button everything is fine and the buzzer is going off but when I press the start button the buzzer and light on the control panel dim way down like there is a big load on the circuitry. But at least the engine isnt buried in the stern of the boat. S&S new what they were doing when they designed this version of the Tartan. All that weight right in the center of the boat way down low with excellent access plus its mounted right on top of the lead keel which dissipates any vibration.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Merry Christmas everyone! Started stripping the mast this morning. Got about 10' done in 1 hour. I think I am looking at about 9 hrs to strip it completely to bare metal. Also started removing some of the damaged pieces of teak that need to be replaced.


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

75Tartan30 said:


> Yes its a 1989 Universal Diesel with fresh water cooling. Its actually giving me a bit of a fit right now as I am having trouble getting it to turn over. The PO admitted there was a wiring issue that let it fire right up sometimes but other times it wouldn't turn over. I have chased the wiring back to the starter and all looks ok so I was thinking it may be an issue with the control panel. When I hold the glow plug button everything is fine and the buzzer is going off *but when I press the start button the buzzer and light on the control panel dim way down like there is a big load on the circuitry*. But at least the engine isnt buried in the stern of the boat. S&S new what they were doing when they designed this version of the Tartan. All that weight right in the center of the boat way down low with excellent access plus its mounted right on top of the lead keel which dissipates any vibration.


Sometimes it can be the ignition switch itself that is the problem. I wonder about any electrical brushes in the starter motor itself too. Hopefully someone with more expertise in this area will chime in. 
If the glow plugs are working it should start up pretty easily I'd think.
Probably time to break out your multi-meter.
If you don't already own it, Nigel Caulder's "Boatowner's Mechanical & Electrical Manual" is a great resource that covers engines, wiring and many other items in great detail (wiring diagrams, photos etc.). Well worth the ~$40 considering most decent engine mechanics charge ~$80/hour.
Good luck chasing down those starting demons!


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## arf145 (Jul 25, 2007)

The starting issue sounds like not enough current getting through the starter. I'm thinking there's a bunch of resistance in there--at a bad connection or too small wire.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

arf145 said:


> The starting issue sounds like not enough current getting through the starter. I'm thinking there's a bunch of resistance in there--at a bad connection or too small wire.


An effective fix can be adding a relay/solenoid where the input coil is activated by the control panel switch circuit, and the load contacts are between the battery and the starter on a short, large gauge wire run. That way the starter gets full voltage, not the reduced power from having the circuit run the distance to the panel and back on smallish wires.


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

What is different about the "C" variant?


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## Plumbean (Dec 17, 2009)

75Tartan30 said:


> ... Just finished prepping the aluminum piece on the bow(not sure of the name of this piece...anyone?)


I think "stem-head fitting" is the correct terminology, but I await correction from those more knowledgeable ...


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

BubbleheadMd said:


> What is different about the "C" variant?


Good question Bubbles.
Sailboatdata.com tells about some of the 'variant' models on the T 30 page (see the notes at the bottom): TARTAN 30 sailboat on sailboatdata.com
Interestingly, they also have an entry for the 'Tartan 3000 CB' but I've never seen a T30 that had a 'center board' (just the older T27, 34 and 37 models have center board models). Just because I've never seen one doesn't mean all that much! Besides the T 3000 is not really a T30 afaik.
I guess I don't really have a good answer for you. Perhaps the OP will shed some light on the "C" in the Tartan 30C.


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## T37SOLARE (Feb 1, 2008)

The "C" denotes it's the competition model, the rig is 3' taller with a deeper keel & 500 additional pounds of ballast.

About the T30 | Chesapeake Tartan 30 Association

That is one great looking T30, congrats!


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

Ah, excellent! That'll be a real asset on light-air days.


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

Hi 75TARTAN30,
What is the condition of the luff groove? Is it painted? How will you prep and finish it?
John


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

ccriders said:


> Hi 75TARTAN30,
> What is the condition of the luff groove? Is it painted? How will you prep and finish it?
> John


The luff grove was painted previously. I will probably need to strip it with a wire wheel to get into the grove. As far as painting I will use the Interlux system with a few coat of primecoat and 3 coats of color. I will also roll and tip instead of spraying.


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## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

Since you are going to race it and cruise, a couple of observations and tips: 1. The wheel steering is likely an owner added item. The competition models were all tiller models from the factory 2. The prop comes out of the aft section of the keel. While its out of the water rotate it until it is vertical and hidden behind the keel- go inside the boat and mark the coupling with some red paint so that you can lock it in position when sailing. 3 A lot of T-30 owners who race have put fairing strips on the skeg forward of the rudder. They rout out a slot on the skeg and and attach flexible plastic strips that cover the gap between the rudder and skeg. The attached pic without rudder shows the strips. 4. Most 30c's have a baby stay to keep the mast from pumping. Hopefully you have one. Most have retrofitted the baby stay with a block and tackle arrangement to make them adjustable.

Good luck with your boat. The T30C is a classic. They sail better than their rating in anything over 10 knots and they reach like crazy.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

The wheel was added by the PO and is an Edson. I have inspected the system and all is in working order/nicely installed. That is a really good tip on marking the shaft for racing and will certainly cut down on a bit of drag. I have made some progress on the mast this week and hope to have it fully stripped by the end of next week. Progress has been a little slow do to a few other projects that needed finishing. I received my new to me Barient 10 in good working order this week. Bought the paint for the mast today and a few pieces of teak to fix the two that were broken. I also had a #$%$ of a time removing the frozen cleats on the mast. Plenty of tefgel going on with the new hardware thats for sure! I think I will be changing the halyard system from wire to rope as well. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I just dont like the wire to rope halyards that are on there now and if I am going to replace them figured all rope would be best.


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## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

Replacing the wire halyards is a pretty good idea. Cost factors are always a consideration. I imagine your halyard lengths are around 100 feet. I have had a lot of luck with New England VPC. Spin, main, and Jib halyards 5/16 (8mm) should would work fine. At about $1.00/ft online it is pretty reasonable. Make sure you check your masthead sheaves to make sure they aren't chewed up. Also you might want to check to make sure the line fits your sheet stoppers. These lines will be slippery at first but develop a nice feel after being exposed to the elements for a while. I've been using VPC for about 3 years on my 29 footer with a mast about 2 feet shorter than the T30C. If you want to go hi-tech do it with your primary jib halyard. Hall Spars has a great price on 5/16" Yale Maxibraid plus.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks for the tip on New England VPC. More sanding/stripping of hardware today. Decided to completely remove the winches from the mast as that will allow the paint the best chance for adhesion. Had to bring out the big guns again to get those bolts to free up. Also finished removing the old cleats. I had been drilling out the bolts but then it dawned on me that im not going to be reusing the old cleats so why not just cut them off? The sawzall made short work of them and since the bolts were frozen in the cleats they made it very easy to back them out with a pair of pliers.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Great thread! I'll have to re-visit this when i'm not using Bahamian Internet service...


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## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

I'm sure the Edson steering is working fine, but it makes me grind my teeth when owners automatically eliminate the tiller on a 30 foot boat. I know the wheel looks salty and gives you that "Master and Commander" feeling, but there are real advantages to a tiller. I'll never give mine up.


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## ccriders (Jul 8, 2006)

I switched from wire/rope to rope only halyards a few years ago using stayset x. I have found that I have to take out halyard stretch after about an hour of sailing and then again after about another hour or so. If doing over I would either bite the bullet and get the really expensive no stretch variety or go back to wire/rope. Like you, I have to go to the mast to work the halyards which is sometimes not so fun. The other factor is the stiffness of the rope. Stayset X is very stiff, does not uncoil smoothly and always gets jammed at the cleat and is hard to keep coiled at the mast while sainling. So supple and no stretch would be the order of the day for me.
John


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## Russ C (Jan 4, 2012)

Great boat! I just bought one in Sept. Same model the T30C. In great shape it is in a indoor shop to work on like yours. about same state, deck solid , the Atomic 4 only has less than 100 hrs on her, I will be painting the deck & mast,boom etc. racing sails 5 years old all kind of extras just a wonderful sailing craft I got a sweet heart deal! just finished most of the bright work inside , I wonder how many " C " models were made? my hull is # 314. I raced as a crew member on her for 5 seasons till the skipper bought up in size to a J 37. more competive by a long shot but I fell in love with the T30 and aquired her as she was just dry docked for a few years, but not for long !!!! good luck on yours keep the ledgen alive! Russ C


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Russ C said:


> Great boat! I just bought one in Sept. Same model the T30C. In great shape it is in a indoor shop to work on like yours. about same state, deck solid , the Atomic 4 only has less than 100 hrs on her, I will be painting the deck & mast,boom etc. racing sails 5 years old all kind of extras just a wonderful sailing craft I got a sweet heart deal! just finished most of the bright work inside , I wonder how many " C " models were made? my hull is # 314. I raced as a crew member on her for 5 seasons till the skipper bought up in size to a J 37. more competive by a long shot but I fell in love with the T30 and aquired her as she was just dry docked for a few years, but not for long !!!! good luck on yours keep the ledgen alive! Russ C


Hey Russ glad to see another T-30C owner. I am the proud owner of #234. Are you by chance located in the new england area? I am out of Chatham MA myself.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

BubbleheadMd said:


> I'm sure the Edson steering is working fine, but it makes me grind my teeth when owners automatically eliminate the tiller on a 30 foot boat. I know the wheel looks salty and gives you that "Master and Commander" feeling, but there are real advantages to a tiller. I'll never give mine up.


The great thing about the wheel install is that the po left the rudder post in place so in the event of wheel failure a tiller can be slid right back in place. I have a spare down below.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Another slow week but I managed to get the two pieces of teak that were damaged replaced. It doesn't hurt to have a cabinet shop in the next bay over thats for sure!


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Finally the sanding/stripping of the mast is complete! I just finished setting up the cheapo paint booth and will put the first coat of primer on later today. For anyone who is thinking of stripping and repainting their mast by themselves let me say its no easy task. It took a total of 28 hrs from start to finish for the stripping of the old paint. At least its on to the fun part now. The temporary paint booth ran me $40 from true value for a 100'x10' roll of plastic. I cut it in half and taped it together to get a 50'x20' sheet. A good tip on joining this type of plastic together with duck tape is to scrub the section of plastic the tape is going on with a solvent first. Apply the tape while the solvent is still wet and the tape and plastic literally become one.


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## Parley (Jul 13, 2006)

It's called a "Stem Casting".


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

1st coat done...time for a beer.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

So I managed to get another coat of primer on the mast but have not hit it with the perfection yet. Decided to remove the locker hatches and re-varnish those as well. Also managed to find a mooring on the Nantucket sound side of the cape for this year. Spring cant come soon enough!


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

The hatches look good now, but you really have to keep up with them, nothing on my T30 went bad faster. I think it is because they are fully exposed to UV and totally flat so they hold water too. They also get lots of use with opening, sitting and standing on them. Mine are now replaced with white plastic, not as good looking but the hours saved on refinishing is worth it.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

baboon said:


> The hatches look good now, but you really have to keep up with them, nothing on my T30 went bad faster. I think it is because they are fully exposed to UV and totally flat so they hold water too. They also get lots of use with opening, sitting and standing on them. Mine are now replaced with white plastic, not as good looking but the hours saved on refinishing is worth it.


Nice idea with the plastic. Did you find hatches that just happened to fit or did you have to make your own? I think what I might do is have a few sunbrella covers sewn up for the bright work. At least I will get a few years out of it then.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

My hatches were just made out of flat plastic stock cut to size, I do no know the name of the product. A small lip was screwed to the inboard edge to match the shape of the old wood ones. Covers would work well too, but for me it would be one more thing to keep track of since they would have to be removed and stored every time I use the boat, and replaced every few years too.

Another option is to give up on varnish and use cetol, that has worked ok for the winch pads on my boat. It does not look as good, but does not lift like varnish.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Man removing winches is a huge pain in the a#$! Spent the better part of an afternoon held up inside a 2x3 bulkhead trying to unbolt those little buggers. Their finally off though. I stripped the winch pad and put the first coat on as well. The winches were through bolted and fastened with tiny washers and nuts on the back side. Although the fiberglass is very beefy in this section I think I may grab a scrap of aluminum and fashion up a few backing plates for a little added security.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

I had to laugh reading your post, I replaced the forward winches last season with 2 speed self tailers. I was lucky since I use the forward winches as the primaries, and can get to the bolts through a compartment the PO built into the seatback. If your boat does not have them it is a good project as it gives you storage in the cockpit for winch handles, water bottles etc.

My rear winches have half the bolts in the aft lazarette, almost imposible to get to, and the other forward bolts are on the other side of the bulkhead, currently not reachable at all. I wonder if the winches were bolted at the factory before the boat was completed. I gave up and wil just re-chrome the drums and rebuild the winches in place.

My winches were also held in place with small washers and nuts only. After 30 years of use, the was no evidence of damage or pull through. I did use larger stainless washers, but did not see the need for backing plates.

Like I mentioned before, the wood winch pads are almost as hard to keep varnished as the hatches, another T30 owner on my dock had one piece canvas covers made that cover the wood and both winches, I just gave up and use cetol. In our area the boat sits in the water year round uncovered, so I may have more degredation than boats that are pulled and protected on the hard.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

I will definitely be having some covers made for the winches/pad as I never want to unbolt those winches again! Any suggestions for rebedding the winches? I was thinking life caulk as it never really becomes brittle.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

Once you get them bolted down and well bedded they are not hard to varnish around, just use lots of painters tape. I have used Life Caulk and butyl tape for this type of work, between the two I have had better luck with the butyl, but both work OK. One note of caution, Life Seal is made by the same company as Life Caulk, and the packaging is very similar. Life Seal has some silicone in it and I have used it on plastic windows, but it would not be a good choice for this job.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

Dont get me started on silicone. The PO or maybe the PO before the PO bedded the winches in gobs of the stuff.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

I also have had to deal with silicone on my boat. By now you probably know this, but you have to get all the old silicone off or nothing will stick. You have already sanded the wood, but think about wet sanding the winch bases after using a chisle or razor blade to get as much off as you can.


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## 75Tartan30 (Dec 23, 2011)

The mast is finally done. Finished up with 2 coats of perfection and she looks like a mirror. Also removed the old lettering on the transom.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

75Tartan30 said:


> The mast is finally done. Finished up with 2 coats of perfection and she looks like a mirror. Also removed the old lettering on the transom.


Very nice work - congrats.


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## eko_eko (Sep 7, 2012)

The mast really does look great, as does the rest of the boat -- so great that I bought her and brought her to Boston 

Anyone want to sail on a beautiful Tartan 30C in Boston? I'm looking for one or two crew most weekends.


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## SloopJonB (Jun 6, 2011)

eko_eko said:


> The mast really does look great, as does the rest of the boat -- so great that I bought her and brought her to Boston
> 
> Anyone want to sail on a beautiful Tartan 30C in Boston? I'm looking for one or two crew most weekends.


You provide the airfare?


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## eko_eko (Sep 7, 2012)

SloopJonB said:


> You provide the airfare?


I can provide the shuttle from the airport 

I've got two friends ready to crew most weekends, looking to offer some free sailing time to others who might want it. I also do informal instruction at Community Boating.

With your experience, you're absolutely welcome to come along for a sail if you're ever in town.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

Is the boat back together and on the water? If so I would like to see some photos. My T30 is almost done, re-doing the toe rails (again), fixing a leaking main salon hatch, replacing the traveler and wind instruments will complete the re-do. In my area the boat is in the water year round so I continue to sail it as the work is going on.


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

Is this the Tartan 30-C we are talking about?
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1284

Because the same site does mention another "C" version except this one which is newer then yours: TARTAN 3000 CB sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

The T30 is a nice boat and is a good sailor. I thought about moving up to a T30 from my T27 but never capitulated.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

The first entry is the correct one, the T30 and T30 C are the same boat, as listed the C had more rig and keel, better I guess for light air. The C version often had a perferated aluminum toe rail, the regular was wood. The wood is better looking but a PIA to keep up.

Mine has the starboard galley set up, the aft galley plan inculded a funky ice box that could be loaded through a hatch in the cockpit.


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## eko_eko (Sep 7, 2012)

baboon said:


> Is the boat back together and on the water? If so I would like to see some photos.


She's in the water at a dock near to Logan Airport. I have some pictures posted over at renegade-cruisers. I can't post pics or links here yet.

I'll be out on the boat again on Monday to install my new AC panel and build some backing plate templates. Let me know if there are any particular pictures you'd like me to take.

I plan to post some pics of these three tracks on the foredeck that I'd like some help in identifying.



baboon said:


> My T30 is almost done, re-doing the toe rails (again), fixing a leaking main salon hatch, replacing the traveler and wind instruments will complete the re-do.


I don't have a main salon hatch. I've seen them in photos of other T30s though. I wonder if they changed that part way though the manufacturing run. What is your hull number? I'm hull 254.

I've also got to figure out how to get the existing wind, speed, and depth meters working again. I guess the wind indicator hardware is just missing but there are some bits sitting in lockers at the end of datamarine cables that might be salvageable.



baboon said:


> In my area the boat is in the water year round so I continue to sail it as the work is going on.


I haven't yet decided if I'm hauling out this year or not. I can stay in the water year round. There's a New Years Day race at my marina.


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## eko_eko (Sep 7, 2012)

baboon said:


> Mine has the starboard galley set up, the aft galley plan inculded a funky ice box that could be loaded through a hatch in the cockpit.


I have the funky-ice-box galley (aka aft galley). Sailboatdata has that layout listed as the "aft cabin" layout for some reason. The cockpit-accessible icebox is convenient, but it makes converting to refrigeration nearly impossible due to insulation issues.

Does the side galley setup have lockers under the cockpit seats?


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

Eko, no specific pics, I am just always interested in what sailors are up to with their T30s. Mine is a 1973, i do not have the hull # with me.

My salon hatch was added by a prior owner. Although it lets in more air and light, it has always leaked. Because of the cambered serface of the house top it is hard to fit a hatch there, mine is flat metal with a wood frame cut to fit the curve, I think it is just too many different materials expanding and contracting in the heat and cold and the sealant lets go.

My boat has no track on the foredeck, not sure I can help you with that.

Some instruments can be hooked up to other manufacture's senders, my local used marine store has boxes of these parts. I do not know the specifics, but others on this site might be able to help.

The starboard galley version has 2 quarter berths rather than your one. I think it has the same, or perhaps even less, cockpit storage than the aft galley set up. This gives me the option of sleeping 6 on the boat, which was of course a marketing ploy and not a realistic use of space, the quarter berths get used for storage.


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

I'm not sure how the letter "C" got added to the 2 types of T30 rigs. The standard rig draws 5' while the tall rig (TR) draws 5'6" with 3' more mast height. What confused me is that the T34-C and T37-C are center board boats like my T27. The T30 is always a fin keeled boat and was never made with a center board option.

The T27's were built with that cockpit accessible ice box as well. Many T27 owners have removed the ice box as it takes up precious real estate on an already small boat. This is on my 'to do' list.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

The C in the T30's case stands for competition, it was a $3100 option package that included the taller mast, deeper keel, spinaker gear, aluminum toe rail, folding prop etc.

The same package included a staysail track on the fordeck, I have never seen one, but it might be the track that Eko is referring to on his boat.


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## eko_eko (Sep 7, 2012)

baboon said:


> The C in the T30's case stands for competition, it was a $3100 option package that included the taller mast, deeper keel, spinaker gear, aluminum toe rail, folding prop etc.
> 
> The same package included a staysail track on the fordeck, I have never seen one, but it might be the track that Eko is referring to on his boat.


That's more information that I had. I knew that the T30C was the taller rig with deeper keel and aluminum rail. I believe that the C also included the optional babystay to prevent pumping. I didn't know about the prop, staysail, etc.

Do you have any information about how the staysail was intended to be connected? Do you have a brochure or anything else that better describes the competition rig option?

I'm missing the baby stay and don't know where to connect any of the replacement parts I'd need to bring the rig back to factory condition.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12076&stc=1&d=1347167616

This is the competition option list from the original order form for my boat,not sure if it helps, but it is fun to look at the prices in 1973 dollars.


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## Sometime (Mar 14, 2018)

I recently picked up a Tartan 30 with the same Universal Diesel and I'm curious what kind of prop you are running. Not sure if I should change up my 2 blade for a 3 blade and would be interested in hearing what someone with the same hull/ engine is doing. Thanks! -Sometime


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

Sometime said:


> I recently picked up a Tartan 30 with the same Universal Diesel and I'm curious what kind of prop you are running. Not sure if I should change up my 2 blade for a 3 blade and would be interested in hearing what someone with the same hull/ engine is doing. Thanks! -Sometime


I would not think that you will need or want a three blade prop on a Tartan 30. These boats came with a two-blade props and motored quite well. Many were equipped with simple folding props. As long as it's pitched properly I don't see why you want to change props.

Jeff


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## roverhi (Dec 19, 2013)

Get a set of jumper cables and go direct to the starter to see if the starter or the engine is the problem. Quick and easy way to start narrowing down the problem and see if the engine works. Baby that engine, IIRC the engine cover was designed around an Atomic Four flat head that has a very low profile. That engine was designed as a specific replacement for the atomic because of it's height. Trying to find another diesel to fit in there without modifying the engine cover may be an issue as diesels are overhead valve engines and usually taller than the A4.

Unless you have to, try not to paint the hull and deck. Paint is not nearly as durable as gelcoat to the normal abuses of using the boat. Way easier to buff out gelcoat than to repaint scratches and scrapes once it's been painted.

If you are going to the trouble of stripping the hardware, do the epoxy fill of the fastener holes for a permanent fix. Butyl is nice but it does ooze continuously, turns to goo when hit with hydro carbons like diesel fuel, and takes longer to reinstall stuff than LifeCaulk. I use it but have often thought about how much easier conventional caulks are to apply and clean up. One big advantage, on large projects like travelers and tracks, you don't have to worry about the stuff skinning over before you get the fasteners cinched down.


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## baboon (Aug 7, 2008)

Based on your username you now own my old T30, it is a great boat. I always had the two blade but wondered if a three blade of feathering prop might help improve control in reverse. The two blade has a great advantage of low drag. Because it is directly aft of the keel it can be aligned vertically, there used to be a peice of tape on the shaft to help. The difference is noticeable. Next time you sail take it out of gear and turn the shaft by hand. You can tell when the prop is vertical because the shaft will have very low resistance to turning, out of vertical it will spin with a fair amount of force. In the end I decided to stick with the two blade because of this and how simple it is. It will push the boat to hull speed so I don't see an advantage to a three blade in forward.


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## Sometime (Mar 14, 2018)

Thanks!


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## eko_eko (Sep 7, 2012)

Sometime said:


> I recently picked up a Tartan 30 with the same Universal Diesel and I'm curious what kind of prop you are running. Not sure if I should change up my 2 blade for a 3 blade and would be interested in hearing what someone with the same hull/ engine is doing. Thanks! -Sometime


I own the boat from this thread. I have a two-blade prop. One benefit is the ability to "hide" it behind the keel when racing as described above. I try to use this technique as a cheap and simpler, if not quite as effective, substitute for a folding prop.


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