# fore hatch



## ddiesel (Apr 23, 2014)

Hello, I have a 40 year old boat with a translucent fiberglass fore hatch. The hatch has yellowed and I would like to replace it. I have the old one to use as a form.

I am old one is a trapazoid 29" x 22" it is also curved to match the curvature of the deck. My thoughts are to make new hatch with teak sides and tinted plexiglass for the top.

Does this sound sensible? Anybody have any experience doing that? Thanks


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## BillMoran (Oct 1, 2016)

Can you post some pics? There's a lot of detail that's difficult to infer from a description.


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## SV Siren (Mar 8, 2013)

I made a new hatch lid, and will be installing the new acrylic this week. I used Ipe, as it is cheaper, and harder than Teak. I used half lap joints on the corners with SS screws covered with bungs and epoxied at the joints. It is 40"x40" and heavy with the acrylic. It replaces the original that was on the boat. This was not hard to do, just took a little time to get it right. I will be bedding the glass to the frame with 3M VHB tape, note, you only get one chance to do this so get it right the first time. This stuff sticks like no other.


If you are making the entire hatch, I would still use Ipe, but I would flatten the top of the frame where it meets the lid, and get rid of the curved top.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Sounds reasonable. 

Box/finger joint the corners for strength and of course use a high grade marine wood glue on the joints. Seal and finish well to ensure no water gets into the wood. I would be tempted to try some of the new composite teak decking and such. Much of it can be chemically bonded with the right agent. Many times Clear PVC or CPVC pipe cement works quite well on some of the composite plastics being used instead of wood.

A triangle with the tip cut off and curved to follow the deck and taper of the bow may be a challenge but you have the old one for a pattern to make it easier. 

Flat top will be easier however depending on how you mount the plexiglass standing water could present some issues with maintenance and longevity.


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## ddiesel (Apr 23, 2014)

Really great feed back. Very helpful. I will try to post some pics; but, usually find this site alittle difficult to navigate.

The hatch will have a slight bow, similiar to the deck. Do you think this should have an impact on whether i use acrylic or plexiglass?

Thanks for your input.


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

The top of the hatch where the plexi goes should have no curve at all. The base (underside) of the hatch should follow the curve of the deck. Take a look at some boats in your area.
You haven't given us any idea of how you intend to use the boat. Day sailing around your home port is one thing, but a crossing to Bermuda, the Bahamas or the Caribbean quite another. If it is the latter, unless you are a professional woodworker or boatbuilder, which your post did not indicate, I would suggest a manufactured metal hatch with a wooden adapter for it to sit properly on your cambered deck. They actually manufacture hatches in nearshore and offshore varieties, for a very good reason.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

Perhaps if you tell us what boat it is, someone might have experience with it. Vague questions at best will get vague and unhelpful answers. Baring a boat model or photo, it may be easiest to just make a mold and recreate the existing hatch in fiberglass again as it lasted 40 years the first time. Though I never have liked the "translucent" hatches as I find them to look unfinished. But if you make a duplicate you can insert an acrylic hatch into it.


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## ddiesel (Apr 23, 2014)

Here are some photos.
https://www.sailnet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=121338&stc=1&d=1544562120


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## paulinnanaimo (Dec 3, 2016)

Have you considered just carefully and accurately cutting out the translucent part and bonding a new piece of material in it's place? It could save a lot of work and preserve the original appearance of your lovely boat.


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## ddiesel (Apr 23, 2014)

I think the entire hatch is laid up fiberglass. I think the white boarder is gel coat. I am afraid that if I cut the center out it will lose it structural integrity


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## paulinnanaimo (Dec 3, 2016)

I'm sure it will lose some strength but it should gain it back if a new piece is firmly installed; a perimeter of small stainless screws would not look out of place.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

ddiesel said:


> Here are some photos.
> https://www.sailnet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=121338&stc=1&d=1544562120


What does the underside look like?

You could just take the gel coat off the outside scuffing it all up, put a new layer of mat and resin over the whole thing, sand it smooth, gel coat the perimeter and clear coat the center to restore it as a translucent panel that will be stronger than it was when new. It will still let light through even with a thin layer of gel coat over the whole thing. Yes it will still be prone to UV damage however it lasted how many years so far and with the current design there is no wood to maintain along with only the two screws to maintain a seal on from what the picture shows.

Boat builder at the sailing center does this type of hatch repair regularly.

At times he will also strip off the hardware and gaskets from the inside of an old cover that is too fragile to restore, coat it with dry silicone, turn it upside down on the workbench and fill it with plaster to make a cast of the inside that he will use to layup a new fiberglass hatch cover. He will make it stronger than the original plus it will be 100% new and as maintenance free as you can get.

You can even get creative and use some of the new luminescent mat, carbon fiber or epoxy that is available to make it glow on the inside from absorbing sunlight.


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## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Give these folks a call. It's what they do. You might even end up just sending it to them and getting back exactly what you want.

https://hatchmasters.com/


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## ddiesel (Apr 23, 2014)

Thanks for responding. I will certainly research all the options you mentioned. I will say that hatch is extremely durable. I did try to sand the top side of the hatch 40 and 80 grit sand paper on an orbital sander, and really had no effect. I do think the way the original was made was excellent; strong, light weight and translucent. I would like to fabricate a new one as close to the original as possible. 

Would you have an opinion as to whether epoxy or poly ester would work best?


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## mike dryver (May 13, 2006)

That hatch is fiber glass, not acrylic ! My brother has the same on his boat ! It was meant to let diffused light in, but not direct light !


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## overbored (Oct 8, 2010)

If you want the same type of hatch then cut out the old semi clear section and re-glass a new one in. you can use the old hatch to make a mold to form the new section. you want to use clear polyester resin not epoxy for the clear section as epoxy will not stay clear very long if left exposed to sunlight.


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