# pearson 31 moisture in deck



## eckcn17 (Oct 8, 2010)

Hi
My wife and I are looking at purchasing our first cruising boat and have come across a 1987 pearson31 in good overall shape and at a very reasonable price. After looking at it we talked to the boatyard manager who knew allot of the story on the boat. It was sold for nearly twice the asking price but the deal fell through due to a bad survey that indicated moisture in the deck around the out side rim of the boat, he said some areas had 30% and it extended in from the toe rail about 8 in around the boat. When walking on the boat on the hard, the deck did not feel "soft" and the stantions seemed to be sturdy.
My question is; how big of a concern is this issue and what will/can eventually happen, worst case scenario. Also in what time period? Would this issue hinder one from sailing in heavier conditions? They stated that two years ago it had a clean survey??? 
Any help/info would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Chris


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

It means the coring is wet and is or will rot. If in a freezing climate it can lead to delamination quickly. Strength is lost wherever you are. The solution is to cut the top skin out and remove any wet core, replace with new and glass over with epoxy and biaxial cloth, fair, and paint. A big job to do yourself and very expensive if hired out.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

The toe rail and stanchions on that particular model have been and can be problematic. Pearson in all their infinite wisdom thought it a good idea to punch out gaskets for the stanchion bases and push pits, really bad idea.

While it no-doubt saved them a ton of money in labor, rags, and chemicals it has cost a lot of owners huge $$$ to repair. If you find ANY Pearson that still has gaskets there is a very, very high probability that the deck is wet. Furthermore if you find one that still has gaskets it is a strong indicator that it has likely never been re-bedded or well cared for.

While this boat may still be structurally sound only a survey by a COMPETENT surveyor can shed light on it to a level that will allow the vessel to be insured or not. Depending upon the level of wetness and delam it may or may not even be insurable. Deck repairs can run 10-30K+ to the extent you describe. Our local boat yard has done a ton of the 303's, 31's 33's and 36-2's all due to the gasket debacle...

Here's why they are a problem..

*Why Gaskets Leak (VIDEO LINK)*


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## SailingWebGuy (May 5, 2010)

I have a quick question related to this. If the core is a little damp, is it possible to dry it out somehow? Will it inevitably rot if it gets damp?

The reason I ask is that I've been rebedding everything on deck lately. I remove the hardware, drill the hole slightly bigger, dig out as much damp core as I can (if it seems damp), fill the larger hole with epoxy, redrill the correct size hole, and then reattach the hardware while sealing it with 5200.

My concern is that while this will stopping leaky hardware it's not doing anything to fix the already damp core.


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

I suppose you could dry core by drilling many holes and letting it air out over time but the best way is to cut and remove it, recore and glass over.

Also best not to use 5200. The only item I would ever use it on is a keel, and maybe not even that. When (not if) that hardware is removed in the future the 5200 will pull gelcoat with it. Adhesive strength is not needed to that extent if fastenings are used. Better choices would be 3M 4200, Sikaflex 291, or best of all butyl which is also the least expensive. Here's a link that might help.
Sealing Deck Penetrations to Prevent Core Rot Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

And here's a pic of what happens when 5200 is used. The gelcoat has been pulled off with the hardware.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I'd point out that the best sealant for general above the water line use for through-bolted hardware is BUTYL TAPE. Unless you need the adhesion characteristics and strength of a different sealant or the area is subject to exposure to fuel spillage on a regular basis, using butyl tape is often the most effective and inexpensive way to seal it.


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## tobytoo (Oct 25, 2010)

I too have a Pearson 31-2 1987 I got it for 1/2 price because of wet decks. I just bought it this spring - sailed it a lot and love it. Yesterday I removed the stanchions, drilled a 1" hole and dug out as much core as I could. I could dig out an area a little larger then the base of the stanchion. Some were rot [dark fibers] others firm but wet balsa wood. I plan on covering the boat but leaving the stanchions off hoping to dry the deck out.

Then in the spring use butyl tape to put them back on.

I'm new to this -- and not sure.
Please give recomondations and advise
What do you think -Mainesail ?
everyone?


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

If there is much moisture in the decks and if it extends beyond the stanchion bases just leaving the stanchion bases off will not dry it in 20 years.

The solution is to determine how far the moisture extends, either by moisture meter (first choice) or drilling holes/removing top skin and remove all of it. Replace it with new core (balsa preferred) and glass over it, the new glass equal to the original skin thickness.


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## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

SailingWebGuy said:


> I have a quick question related to this. If the core is a little damp, is it possible to dry it out somehow? Will it inevitably rot if it gets damp?
> 
> The reason I ask is that I've been rebedding everything on deck lately. I remove the hardware, drill the hole slightly bigger, dig out as much damp core as I can (if it seems damp), fill the larger hole with epoxy, redrill the correct size hole, and then reattach the hardware while sealing it with 5200.
> 
> My concern is that while this will stopping leaky hardware it's not doing anything to fix the already damp core.


Once water enters a wooden/balsa core it will activate the fungal spores that either were there when the coring was manufactured or spores that entered with the water. There is only a teeny percent chance that injecting anti-fungal compounds (tin-compounds such as athletes foot remedies, a mix of ethylene Glycol and borax, etc.) will keep the fungals in check. Other than that the only way to stop the fungal growth is gamma radiation. Sorry but the only way to be sure that the rot isnt spreading/worsening is to open the core and replace it, etc. .... and the sooner you do this the less work you will ultimately do. If your boat is a Pearson, it is possible to do the core replacement 'from underneath' so you dont destroy the deck's non-skid; but, this 'from underdeck' repair is chancy/difficult for the DIYer.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

In looking at pearsons we found the problem to be as widespread as reported in otherwise pretty good boats

The problem is compounded by two issues the Hull liner greatly complicates and inside repiar and the models with and aluminum toerail it greatly complicates and outside skin repiar

In repiaring the C&C stanchions which have the same problem with the aluminum toerail being so close to the stanchion base and the hull liner getting in the way on the inside


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## tobytoo (Oct 25, 2010)

What I find when I clean out the area where the stanchions are mounted is firm - white - moist -balsa wood.
I know this will not dry out completely. or solve the problem.
But if filled with thickened epoy and sealed will the stancheions be supported ? What is the longevity of a Pearson under these conditions {high moister readings]
Thanks


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

The balsa will expand when it freezes, trying to force things apart, and then starting to rot again when it warms up.


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

With thickened epoxy it will be that much harder to repair when the time comes. You basically can just live with it, seal the area up and know that it's there and won't go away. OR you start inspecting, drilling, and cutting. It's no fun, this is one of those things that doesn't go away and there is no easy way to fix it. If it's not wide spread, and you can live with it - seal everything up and keep your eye on it. The inevitable will be waiting on you... Miti is correct, freezing and thawing will tear things up as well... I know this personally!


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## tobytoo (Oct 25, 2010)

no point in trying to dry it out - by leaving it open?


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

tobytoo said:


> no point in trying to dry it out - by leaving it open?


No, the way the balsa is cut does not help it dry whatsoever. It's endgrain so the drying pretty much stops once it's no longer exposed. There is no easy way out of it, i'm afraid...


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

Balsa used in a deck is end grain meaning the grain is vertical. The top and bottom surfaces are sealed with resin where they are attached to the inner and outer skins. This is one reason why balsa is a good choice for core, it resists water migration. Water does eventually get through the balsa, but it takes years to do so unless the skin is separated from it. There is no reason for the moisture to leave the balsa and migrate back to the holes where the stanchions were. It will stay where it is until it gets warm enough to rot. Then it will eventually become soft and mushy. This is why removal of the skin and then the wet balsa is the only way to solve it. 
If one bought a new boat and noticed a leak from a fitting soon after it started, there would not be a problem as the moisture wouldn't have time to travel through the core - an easy fix. But on boats like yours and mine, decades old leaks are too far gone to fix easily. The cancer has spread and spot removal isn't a fix.
It's not what you and many others want to hear but it is the reality.


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## arf145 (Jul 25, 2007)

I reseated all the stanchions on my 87 Pearson 28 last year--including coring the bolt holes with thickened epoxy--and only found two that had wet balsa. In both cases, the wet area was limited to maybe 3 or 4 square inches, and I was able to scrape out the wet balsa and fill the whole area with thickened epoxy.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

tobytoo said:


> no point in trying to dry it out - by leaving it open?


Not really, since the water took months to get into the wood and saturate it...it will likely take months to dry it out... and you could easily re-core the area in far less time.


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

tobytoo said:


> ...
> I'm new to this -- and not sure.
> Please give recomondations and advise
> What do you think -Mainesail ?
> everyone?


I think that you probably didn't get what you paid for...

But best of luck as you figure it all out after the fact.


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

Toby

Your not going to be able to do much other than dig it out and and fill it with epoxy without getting into a prolonged rebuild involving a lot of work

Its already reached fast catalyst heat lamp epoxy weather so its not like you do much when the weather stays below 50 degrees

So i would try and fill it and enjoy the boat and if they start to appear unsafe you can go into big repair mode

Or you can find a local waterjet cutting place and










most bases are way to small for the yanking around they get










So i see how much space i have to work with










This will allow you to remove a nice size piece of skin to dig out a LOT of core and NOT have to be match the non-skid and gelcoat


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## tobytoo (Oct 25, 2010)

Thanks for the help.
I have 5" diameter of old core dug out around each stanchion base.
I guess I will fill them with thickened epoxy, and live with it.
How long does it take for firm wet balsa core to turn to mush?
Thanks


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

I passed on an '87 Pearson 31 in otherwise excellent condition, that I could have owned for a great price for this reason. The owner had rebedded the stantions, but the moisture in the core still pegged the needle on my meter for 12" in from the toe rail. At the time the deck around the stantions seemed to have sunk into the core...

Deck near the port lifeline gate.









Here is the starboard deck (note the meter)









My thought is that it would cost more to fix the boat than the cost of the boat...

No regrets.


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## tobytoo (Oct 25, 2010)

I think I'm cunfused.

Mine must be in excellent - excellent condition. 

Like the old lady - who just drove her car to church. 

just want to know where to go from here with a repair


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## LandLocked66c (Dec 5, 2009)

Take a look at this...

Pearson Triton #381 Glissando | Deck Recore Project


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

I meant to say that this is not uncommon with these boats.

Sorry, I didn't mean to confuse - or loose my train of thought...

For repair, LandLocked66C has given you a great pointer. Tim can do this for you, or you can use his method to DIY.

Here is another reference on how to DIY: 
WEST SYSTEM | Projects | Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration - Fiberglass deck repair-Part 1, Replacing damaged balsa core
and WEST SYSTEM | Projects | Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration - Creating a non-skid deck
or WEST SYSTEM | Projects | Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration - Repair non-skid and get professional results


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## tobytoo (Oct 25, 2010)

Thanks for the help
Now I have to decide how big of a project I want and what i am willing to live with.
Thanks


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## eckcn17 (Oct 8, 2010)

Thanks everyone for your help and input!! & thanks Toby for helping to keep it going. As you know I am looking into the same boat as you have, I have an offer in and will get a survey if we get an agreed price. I will be sure to let you know any/all the insight I gain from the surveyor! 
Thanks again all!

Chris


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## trisstan87 (Aug 15, 2010)

How prevalent is this problem in other models of 70's and 80's model boats? Is this a problem contained within a few brands or something that eventually befalls any and all craft?


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

Its a maintenance issue and most boats dont get ANY unless it shows up inside of the boat as a drip on the cushions its "out of sight out of mind" and sometimes not even then 

Any boat with a core can have it happen Jboats C&C endless list


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

trisstan87 said:


> How prevalent is this problem in other models of 70's and 80's model boats? Is this a problem contained within a few brands or something that eventually befalls any and all craft?


I find it is more prevalent in builders who used gaskets or who did not countersink or slightly bevel the bolt holes for deck hardware. It is also prevalent in boats where the stanchion plates are thin flat plate SS that can flex and break a seal rather than a heavy duty cast SS base.

Such as this:









It is also very prevalent in boats whose owners never rebedded deck hardware. Hunter, Catalina, Pearson, O'Day and many others can have rather high rates of deck moisture due to lax bedding techniques when compared to builders like Sabre, J Boat, Hinckley or Morris who all bevel/countersink deck core holes to create a nice thick o-ring of sealant that can flex more before failure. This is NOT to say I have never seen a J Boat or Sabre with wet decks, and J did not do this all along, but Sabre was doing it back in the early 80's.

ANY boat can have deck leaks but as a whole builders who use less than robust methods or materials seem to have higher rates of wet decks. When we searched for our last boat 44 out of the 51 vessels I looked at had some sort of deck moisture. The Pearson's from the "gasket era" seem to have very high rates of moisture in-fact there are about four or five 31-2's 33-2's & 36-2's at my boat yard and almost all of them have had major deck repair work done as noted by the non-factory non-skid.

It is a common issue but not always as big a "problem" as many think it is and does not always require major surgery...


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