# Galilee 15



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I am currently learning to sail on a Galilee 15, and was wondering if anyone else out there sails one. It''s an older boat, made by Galilee Boatworks in Maryland (went out of business some years ago). She''s a beautiful little daysailer and handles very well (from what I can tell from my limited experience). When I look at newer daysailers being manufactured, they just can''t match her looks. I''m sure that they have the advantage of recent technology, but I think the Galilee is just the perfect mixture of form & function.

Either way, I was hoping to hear from anyone else who might happen to be sailing one....

Thanks,

Joe


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

I am reasonably familiar with the Galilee. When I first moved to Maryland, an aquaintance was looking to buy one new and so we went down to the factory in Mayo and looked at them being built and later sailed on one that belonged to a friend of my acquaintance. They were OK boats. Neither extremely well built but seeming to be reasonably solid. 

In terms of sailing ability, when we first went out there was pretty light conditions and the boat seemed a little short of sail area for her weight. Things picked up as the daysail progressed and in moderate conditions she sailed quite well. I thought she was a handful in a stronger breeze and having trouble completing tacks reliably in a chop. I had concluded that some of the observed performance flaws comes from the Galilee''s extremely beamy hullform. Still these do make a nice daysailor.

Regards
Jeff


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Their "beamy hullform" was one of the things that they appeared to be most proud of (maybe that''s why they went out of business); the brochure goes on about how the 6''8" beam combined with 120lbs of internal ballst gives you great stability and a big boat feel in a small boat.

What gave you the impression that she was a handful in stronger breezes. I''ve only sailed it in light conditions and am curious about other peoples experiences with similar boats.

Thanks,

Joe


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## titustiger27 (Jan 17, 2013)

Jeff_H

It's 11 years later and there is a Galilee 15 for sale in the local craigslist.

Wonder what your assessment of the boat is now....?


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

My accessment has not changed in 11 years. I have not sailed one and barely even seen one since. In a slight coincidence, I had an intern architect who worked for me whose uncle built the Galilee. The molds still existed and at one point Jonah (that really was his name) was thinking of building one for himself. 

The only thing I would say is that it was a ideosyncratic design and has some interesting and perhaps appealing features and some odd less understandable features. 

There are a lot of neat daysailors out there many of which are simply better boats in a very general sense. There does not seem to be a following for these boats.To buy a used Galilee today, the price would need to be very cheap, and her design well suited to where and how you plan to sail. 

Jeff


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## titustiger27 (Jan 17, 2013)

Yes -- the boat listed for $650 (including trailer) a 15 foot O'day is $900 (w/trailer 'that needs work')

BTW. thanks for the response ... 11 years after your first post


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## doubled6953 (Jul 27, 2013)

I have been sailing a galilee since 1985 and have had great times


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## OPossumTX (Jul 12, 2011)

I have a Galilee 15 that I bought in less than prime condition on Dregs list a couple of years ago. Just before I started having health problems following an automobile accident. 

I am pretty much over the problem I was having and have the minor dock rash on the bow patched up, leaves, scum, varnish, rigging and now the trailer problems mostly cleaned up. I was going to go plunk it in the water last Saturday and see if it floats but the trailer developed a hot wheel bearing which has lead me to have to replace both hubs, bearings and spindles on the wimpy little axle the tiny wheels turn on.

I'll splash her shortly after the wheels on the trailer are turning again. There will be a little welding job there to replace both spindles, springs and fix bunk brackets. If after that, I think it is worth it, I will make new splash boards as the old ones are split and down right scaly looking.

Wish me luck!
O'


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## doubled6953 (Jul 27, 2013)

I just brought one back to life and sailed it yesterday.It had been sitting uncovered in a backyard for 4 years. Boat and trailer took about 600$ to get it back in shape. The person that bought loves it.


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## jeffandy25 (Aug 18, 2013)

doubled6953 said:


> I have been sailing a galilee since 1985 and have had great times


Have you been able to find replacements parts when things break or go missing? I need a new tiller head as a major piece has broken off into the ocean...Any ideas?

JeffAndy25


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## CalebD (Jan 11, 2008)

Finding an exact replacement may not be possible.

Edson Tiller Head Fitting for 1" Rudderpost - Bronze | Mauri Pro Sailing


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## cpick98 (Jul 29, 2015)

I recently managed to break off the cheek plates off the rudder post of my Galilee 15 and lose the rudder - and all steering. Anyone know of a reasonable replacement rudder or have one lying around from a junked Galilee 15? I figure if I can get new cheek plates made and welded on - but then I need a rudder blade. Any other suggestions for the repair would be helpful. Thanks!

Chris P


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## joeuke (Oct 18, 2013)

*Re: Galilee 15 mainsail shackle dimensions*

Hiya, would some kind person please send me the dimensions of the shackle that holds the tack of the mainsail to the gooseneck of the boom.

thanks

Joe


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## missdoss (Oct 12, 2015)

jeffandy25 said:


> Have you been able to find replacements parts when things break or go missing? I need a new tiller head as a major piece has broken off into the ocean...Any ideas?
> 
> JeffAndy25


I have this boat and would like to sell it. It has all the parts. I did have to replace the mast connection to the boat and it had to be specially made as spare parts are not available. It is a great boat. If you are still out there you can call me at 860-710-3606


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## missdoss (Oct 12, 2015)

I have this boat complete, I only want to sale it whole, not just parts, call me if you are interested. 860-334-2314


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## missdoss (Oct 12, 2015)

I have this boat and it is complete and I am willing to sale it whole. 860-710-3606


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## timobrown (Aug 4, 2016)

Hi: This post was placed almost a year ago. Is the boat still for sale and available? Regards, timo


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## Barquito (Dec 5, 2007)

Hey timo, looks like there is a phone number (or two) included. That may help answer your question.


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## bigred (May 31, 2017)

I realize this is an old posting but I just purchased the 15 and wondering if there is another forum? Also would like to know if anyone has found a source for parts such as a scupper plug or details on rigging the Flasher (spinnaker). Any feedback would be appreciated.
John


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## bigred (May 31, 2017)

I realize this is an old posting but wondering if you had found a good source for parts, etc. I just purchased a 15 in excellent shape but not sure what the future holds. Also, not sure where to attach a topping lift on the mast as this boat does not have one installed. Any help would be appreciated. (also not sure how to post for all to see)
Thanks,
John


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## bigred (May 31, 2017)

Also have recently purchased a Galilee. Looking for a source of parts if needed. Also, I need to install a topping lift to keep the boom from having rest in the hull but don' see anywhere to attach at the top of the mast. (not sure how to post this to the group).
Hopefully you can help.
Thanks,
John


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## bigred (May 31, 2017)

I recently purchased a Galilee as well and was wondering if there are any sources for parts and accessories. Also, I need to create a place on the mast to connect a topping lift for the boom. Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John


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## TSchwarck (Jan 7, 2011)

Hi John: Here are some pics of the topping lift on my 15'er. I don't know what your masthead looks like, but if you can't drill a hole maybe you could attach an eyebolt or deck clip up there.

Tom


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## bigred (May 31, 2017)

Tom,
Thanks for the photos. I really appreciate your quick response. I am new to the site so glad messages are getting through.
John


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## bigred (May 31, 2017)

I am also sailing a Galilee. I have a question regarding a huge amount of water coming out of the stern plug. It has been in a slip all summer. Not sure where the water is coming from as it appears to be clean, fresh water. You could hear the water sloshing around in the hull when moving the trailer up and down. Hopefully someone has a answer. Not sure if they used some water as ballast. Would appreciate any help.
John


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

I am getting a Galilee 15 back in service and used a standard 1" deck stanchion to fabricate a new tiller head along with a jamb cleat with a down turn fairlead. Parts have not been an issue as most appear to be standard Dwyer at least for the mast and boom and the local Doyles Loft can make the Standing Rigging relatively inexpensively while you wait.

Original Brochure and Owners Manual are available on-line. 
http://ruach.net/Boats/Galilee15SalesBrochure.pdf
http://rvharvey.com/Galilee15OwnersManual.pdf

Many seem to loose the pin for setting the dagger board height (that's what the 2 stainless steel rests at the back of the centerboard trunk are for) for shallow water sailing to get the full range of draft with several choices from about 7 inches to 3 feet 7 inches.

I am putting a BoomKicker on instead of a topping lift.

You do have to lift the bow high to drain the bilge completely and may need to open the air vent plug between the mast and storage area in the bow in order to get better flow. Folks who do not set the tiller head in with both the pin and clamp may tend to drop the rudder post and ground them which may crack the tube the rudder shaft passes through. Putting an inspection hatch in the cockpit will make it very easy to check this area and do any repairs on the tube plus get you access to the nuts holding the motor mount on the stern.

Super Sail Makers have the Main, Jib and Genoa available:
Galilee 15 Main Sail by Super Sailmakers

Here are some pics of what I have done for the tiller and to repair the gooseneck. Note that the Fairlead Jam Cleat has not been installed on the tiller yet. Gooseneck was broken however I welded a new tab on so it can be used while sourcing a replacement at reasonable cost.

























Its not a race boat but for a picnic boat its pretty nice. I am told it got beat up being in the rental pool and that most greatly preferred her to the Capri 14.2 that was stored right next to her.


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## paulinnanaimo (Dec 3, 2016)

It looks from the photos that you are doing a nice job. The gooseneck repair looks good, do you not trust it?
A while back you made a lot of posts regarding boats that you were considering for purchase; is the Galilee 15 the culmination of that search?


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## bigred (May 31, 2017)

Thanks for the thread. I am considering a boom kicker as well. Have you decided which to use and what manufacturer. I am not clear on your other posts. Regarding water drainage, I have an access port below the access to the cooler. Is this the one you say should be opened to faciliate draining? I have epoxied the bottom of the dagger board as I thought that might be a source of leaks as it had rough edges along the very bottom. 
I look forward to hearing from you and staying in touch as there are not many Galilee's out there.
Thanks again,
John


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

paulinnanaimo said:


> It looks from the photos that you are doing a nice job. The gooseneck repair looks good, do you not trust it?
> A while back you made a lot of posts regarding boats that you were considering for purchase; is the Galilee 15 the culmination of that search?


I have tested it by hanging from it and the math says its got enough weld are to have tensile and shear strength of some thousands of pounds so I will be cautiously optimistic while keeping an eye on it for distortion.

The Galilee's fiberglass on the hull and in the cockpit was in the best condition of any sub $2,000 boat I had looked at despite being only $500 and the issues that it did have appeared well suited to my skill set with the plus that it was at the Sailing Center which I feel is a worthy cause.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

bigred said:


> Thanks for the thread. I am considering a boom kicker as well. Have you decided which to use and what manufacturer. I am not clear on your other posts. Regarding water drainage, I have an access port below the access to the cooler. Is this the one you say should be opened to faciliate draining? I have epoxied the bottom of the dagger board as I thought that might be a source of leaks as it had rough edges along the very bottom.
> I look forward to hearing from you and staying in touch as there are not many Galilee's out there.
> Thanks again,
> John


I am going with the Selodair BoomKicker 312 due to its no drilling required/simple design and am getting it from West Marine since they had the best price I have found so far at $79.99.

Boomkicker

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seoladair--boomkicker-boom-supports--P002_063_003_501?recordNum=2

The little white plug on the top of the center board trunk that you twist 1/4 of a turn to remove is just an air vent to allow the bilge to drain faster.

Inside the forward compartment just below the access opening is a seem between the cooler and the cockpit wall which may be open and let water into the bilge. Some may be inclined to caulk this seam but then you will need to mop up any water that splashes in there with a rag or a sponge since it will no longer drain out through the bilge.

The dagger board is a loose accessory and not integral to the hull so I would look elsewhere for the source of the water The bottom of the dagger board is a hefty piece of metal and part of the ballast of the boat making up the bottom several inches of the dagger board. If the boat was grounded there could be some damage to the rear of the trunk where the board passes through.

The cockpit drain would be the next source to look at for water coming in and may need to be re-bedded with caulk both where it goes through the cockpit floor and exits the hull.

Inside the transom there is a section of 1 inch PVC pipe that the rudder shaft goes through from the deck to about an inch below the hull which you will have to cut a hole in the back wall of the cockpit to get to. A 10 or 12 inch inspection hatch will be needed to cover it up afterwards. You may find that pipe cracked below the waterline if someone ran aground after the tiller head came loose and the rudder shaft dropped partially out so that the top end of the stainless steel shaft cracked the PVC pipe when the shaft started dropping out of the transom. Some thick wall PVC pipe and fittings can be used to repair it along with some 5200 to seal where it goes through the hull.

Today I hope to be finishing up the repairs to the bottom of the pipe where it exits the hull as that is where the last renter did the most damage when he dropped the rudder and lost the tiller head. I will be using a 1 inch PVC Pipe Coupling, a small section of 1 inch PVC Pipe to fill in a chipped out section of the existing pipe, Purple Cleaner, Heavy Duty PVC Cement and some 5200 Caulking to seal it to the hull.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Today I finished up repairing the external section of the rudders pivot tube and reinforced it as mentioned previously using a PVC Pipe Coupling. Everything went as expected and now there is more bearing and sealing surface due to the larger diameter of the coupling.

While I was there I inspected where the scupper exited the hull and did not like the looks of it. The stopper is missing and the caulking around the nut needs attention as someone just smeared some sealant all over it from the outside instead of removing it, cleaning it up properly and making a righteous job of it. I may break it when removing it however it should just be a standard plastic thru-hull with a manual stopper and locally available in multiple stores.

Most problems I am finding with the boat are from careless renters and/or slipshod maintenance people.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

I ended up removing and re-bedding the existing cockpit drain with 4200. It's a simple 3/4" thru-hull with a toggle plug but is over the standard 2 1/4" length available locally so rather than ordering an extra length one or switching to a $100 bronze version I just cleaned up the old one and put it back. A previous tech left out the washer behind the nut so I made a new one out of some 1/8" thick high density plastic I keep in my workshop. 

The rudder tube and exit bushing set nicely and is much stronger than when new.

Tomorrow will be buffing/polishing day, Thursday we be rigging/standing the mast day, Friday will be for anything left over plus to allow another day for caulking to set and hopefully Saturday will be first sail in almost a decade.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Finally got the Galilee out on the water today and it behaved admirably despite light steady winds with occasional heavy wind bursts that were causing a lot of near knockdowns of other boats. There were a number of disabled paraplegic sailors out there in the heavily ballasted boats they use having near knockdowns however the Galilee was not behaving anywhere near as tender as those boats were.

BoomKicker worked as expected and made flaking the sail a lot easier with the boom level and centered over the sheet block although the centerboard being so close to the mast did make it a tight fit with the board raised to one of the shallow draft positions. I spent a few hours sailing her with a coach who had never been on her before and he was impressed with how well behaved and easily controllable she was in the wind gusts. I am considering her a good boat even for this moderately disabled senior citizen with mobility issues.

There was only one real negative and that was the modifications someone did to the original Galilee Trailer where they replaced the bunks with 4X10 lumber on edge covered with fire hose making it so you need 3 feet of water to launch a boat that only drafts 7 inches along with making it very hard to get the boat back on the trailer since it does not come close to touching the keel strip rollers. They had to use the 16 foot hitch extender to launch and retrieve and even then the rear wheels of the tractor were in the water.

Could someone post a picture of how their trailer is set up for the Galilee? That is the only thing I currently would wish to change.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Could someone post a picture of how their trailer is set up for the Galilee? That is the only thing I currently would wish to change. I would appreciate pics even if its of something that does not work quite well so I can see options to avoid however anything has got to be better than the 8 foot long 4X10 beams standing on edge that are on there now.

Had an instructor ask to take a couple out for sailing lessons in her since they came in street clothes and not something appropriate for a beach cat or other wet boat. Everyone was very happy with how she handled with the instructor and two students on board. They opted to extend the lesson an extra hour or so enjoying it so much that they signed up for membership afterwards.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

I'll show you mine if you'll show me yours.

This is how the last guy set it up. Notice the red arrow pointing out how high it is off the center rollers:


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Got the bunks corrected and now the boat sits much better on the trailer. Fire Hose was miserable to launch with compared to the outdoor astroturf type carpet and the 4X10's easily added well over 100 lbs to the weight of the trailer. 

The owners manual stipulates 50 lbs tongue weight however with the way it was set up when I got it the tongue weight was closer to 150 lbs.

Who has setup a cradle to better store the dagger board and boom while trailering along with the mast? Really do not like lashing the mast to the tiller handle and having the boom and board just lying in the cockpit. 

Looking for ideas to work with.


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## Ben Neal (Jun 12, 2018)

I am an unexpected new owner of a free Galilee 15, in Boothbay Harbor, Maine. How interesting to come across this 16 year old discussion thread on this boat! 

The boat was neglected on a mooring, which is broke free from - the bottom was badly fouled, the boat was on the rocks for a time, the rudder was snapped off and missing (but the rudder post and tiller were still present), and the trailer had two flat tires. 

So far I am about $100 into the cleanup . . . and surprisingly it is looking good! I fixed the trailer, hauled the boat, pressure washed the bottom (which was remarkably sound) - removing a serious head of hair, and put on three coats of antifouling. I am still lacking a rudder, but am going to weld a quick blade on to the extant shaft to test the boat out for the rest of the season (but this will not be tilt-able - I will put have to put the shaft in when the boat is n the water and remove before hauling). So - does anyone know if the original rudder assembly is available for purchase anywhere? I would think not, but worth asking . . . 

Also - what else particular to these boats should I look for as I clean the boat up?


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

Nice job cleaning her up. If you are able to weld, it would be pretty easy to fabricate and weld the swivel plates onto the rudder post and to build a new blade for the rudder out of glass over wood. You can see what it should look like in the picture in Post 36 of this thread. 

Jeff


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## Ben Neal (Jun 12, 2018)

Thanks Jeff - a search for images of the rudder is in fact was led me to the thread. I do still have the rudderhead, and did think about fitting something like the original circular plates, but was dissuaded in favour of a quicker solution, to test out the rest of the boat. Hmm . . . could be a shortsighted effort on my part. One other issue is that I am cautious as well about the condition of the rudderpost, which was damaged in the grounding. I gave it a bit of a straighten with a little heat and some elbow grease, but replacing that tube would be a much better idea if I went to the effort of making a new rudder assembly. At that point I choose to simply pick the low hanging fruit . . .

The breeze out here in Boothbay is simply stellar today, and I am feeling the need to get out on the water quickly! Summer is fleeting here . . . but I do also think my stitched-up rudder might not prove up to the job . . .


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

The rudder is hollow which makes it easier to lift it due to its buoyancy.

Did the round cheek plates break off or did the wooden rudder just break up? I would weld in new cheek plates and make a pine rudder up using a belt sander to shape it before modifying the post too much. You may want to put an inspection port in the cockpit to check the condition of the rudder tube that passed through the transom and out the bottom. I believe its just 1 inch PVC pipe that may have been drilled out to accept the stainless steel shaft which is slightly over 1 inch in diameter. Not putting back the kickup rudder could cause a lot more damage to the transom if you have even a simple grounding so I would really avoid making a fixed blade temporary rudder. 

While parts from Tiberias Marine/Galilee Boatworks are not available the Brochure and Owners Manual are on-line. Most parts are fairly standard and available from anyone who stocks Dwyer, Ronstad and Harken with the exception of the rudder. If you want measurements of the rudder blade please let me know.

Here is a snip from the owners manual showing the raise and lower lines that go through the rudder shaft and come out between the cheek plates:


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

Ben Neal said:


> The breeze out here in Boothbay is simply stellar today, and I am feeling the need to get out on the water quickly! Summer is fleeting here . . . but I do also think my stitched-up rudder might not prove up to the job . . .


When I bought my current boat she was in Boothbay Harbour. (She belonged to Byron Borst at the time.) Boothbay is an exceptionally lovely place. I truly loved being there while we were surveying the boat.

If you are seriously jonesing for a sail, you might carry a long oar and some line to lash it to the top of the rudder post. With that you should be able use the oar to steer your way back home should your temporary rudder fail.

If you are capable of fabricating and welding Stainless steel, then it might make sense to weld an entirely new new rudder post assembly including the post itself.

Jeff


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## Arcb (Aug 13, 2016)

Jeff_H said:


> If you are seriously jonesing for a sail, you might carry a long oar and some line to lash it to the top of the rudder post. With that you should be able use the oar to steer your way back home should your temporary rudder fail.
> 
> If you are capable of fabricating and welding Stainless steel, then it might make sense to weld an entirely new new rudder post assembly including the post itself.
> 
> Jeff


Absolutely!

Shortly before my brother and I both put our cruising sailboats up for sail we did a nutso circumnavigatiin of the Western Thousand Islands on my Walker Bay 8. It took us about 3 days in some pretty blustery conditions. We ended up breaking the tiller and both oars with the WB8's extreme weather healm in heavy wind, but we had a stupid amount of fun (enough for both of us to sell our cruising boats).

I haven't sailed the WB8 much in the last few years, but I have connected with some dudes planning an 8' max sail and oar race. This time I have upgraded oars, oar locks and tiller. Locked and loaded 

Any way, long way of saying, you can steer a small boat pretty well with your oars.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Check the 1 inch PVC going through the transom before doing anything else even if your forgo replacing the rudder and just put an outboard or oar on the built in motor mount. They dropped the rudder on mine losing the tiller head and when we opened up the transom to inspect the tube we found it broken off near the bottom inside. The cheek plates are welded on pretty sturdily on mine so it had to take quite a bit of force to break them off and bend that 1+ inch thick wall stainless steel rudder shaft on yours.

Where the two 1/4" control lines come out the bottom of the rudder shaft one goes straight down in-line with the front of the rudder to lock the rudder in the lowered position while the lift line passes under a stainless steel roller and goes out the back over the top of the rudder for raising it.

I put UHDC (Saw Slick) between the cheek plates and the rudder to allow it to be snugged better while still leaving it free enough to raise and lower with minimal effort.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Who knows what the original dimensions were for the board on the factory outboard motor mount? Mine is very unevenly cut up to a bare minimum and looks like it might have been trimmed down by someone with a very shaky hand in an effort to put a short shaft on it. 

If I understand correctly on a sailboat the ventilation/cavitation plate should be 6" below the water line. What have the other Galilee owners here been using... Short, Long or Sail Shaft (25" but I doubt that)?


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

Hi, new to the forum... long time galilee salior. Glad to see some still out there. I bought my galilee in ‘92 and its served me very well. Years ago i lost the rudder and cut a new one out of oak to replace it. Time to make a new one and i figure id ask for the actual dimentions. Can someone measure their length and width? Or better yet will another rudder come close, such as a lazer’s? Thanks

-Joe
Candlewood Lake, Conn.

Galilee 15
1986
Hull number: GAK15437M86G
Sail number: 437


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

I'll take a picture of the rudder blade and put some measurements on it for you tomorrow. Mine still has the original hollow rudder blade on it. It is a swept back foil design and not as simple as some may think.

If you could take a picture of the board on the motor mount and add some dimensions including the bolt locations that would be great.

Any idea where the VIN plate is located on the Galilee factory trailer? I have been all over mine and can't locate it. Hopefully its was not on one of the tail light brackets since the yard where they were storing it cut those off long before I bought it.

Mine is an 1983 with a K suffix indicating November and the original sail number would have been 168 (GAK15168M83K). The current sails are from Ansons Sail Loft in Greenland NH and quite well made.


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

Unfortunatly i have a Cox trailer and not an original galilee one. Here in CT trailers that size arent titled, so if you cant find the VIN the State DMV will issue you one upon inspection and a notiried form.

I replaced my wood block on the motor mount some 15 years ago. I cut a new plate using my old one as a template. Ill measure whats left of it and post a picture with the bolt spacing.

I still have my original sails, jib, main and flasher.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

They aren't titled here in Florida either but do require proof of ownership.

The wood block is very small and misshapen like it was reduced in size to put a short shaft on the boat. Your measurements will be appreciated. I will be using a Honda BF2.3DH Long Shaft.

You have the optional Flasher - How does that work out?

On mine Anson went a percentage larger on the main making the boom sit a little lower and played with the foresail dimensions a bit too. Scared the mentor I went out with since he was not expecting the old lady with the wide hips to kick up her heels and get a move on like she did.

The shake down sail was my first time out in over 40 years and the first time out in almost a decade for the Galilee since it was vandalized and the tiller handle lost.

I went with a bit of an overbuilt club for the replacement and have since installed two fairlead jam cleats for the lift and lock down lines:









Found a pic showing the new tiller head with the light bar installed so I can use magnetic towing light for the trailer due to the epoxy painted steel plates on each end of the boom and mast support:


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

The tiller looks great. I need to also re do mine. What type of wood is it made off? 

I’ll measure the motor mount board this afternoon. 

The flasher works well in lighter steady winds, though I haven’t used it in a while. She’s been sitting on a trailer for the past 10 Year’s or so. Needs new halyards, tiller, rudder and block for the motor mount. It’s a great boat, I learned how to sail with it in the ‘90s.... kicked her over a few times.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

The tiller is made from some scrap walnut and oak that I had in the workshop along with some aluminum angle that I gas welded together then epoxy painted, a stainless steel 1" safety rail stanchion and two downturn fairlead cleats.

I'll be heading outside in a few to finish up my launch extension for the trailer and will take some measurements and a close up photo or two of the original rudder.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

The rudder is a full inch thick and measures about 32" long from top to bottom.

The bottom edge runs parallel to the water line and the leading and trailing edges sweep back from top to bottom at a 15 degree angle and are 8 3/4" apart.

The top front edge where there raise line attaches is 28 7/8" from the bottom and the back top edge is about 30 7/8" from the bottom.

The pivot bolt hole is 28 3/4" from the bottom and 4 3/4" from the leading edge.


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

The board on the motor mount is 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 1 1/2. The philips head bolts are 2 1/2 spaced evenly from each other on the lower half of the mount. The wood mount is pretty shot. I’ll be cutting a new one tomorrow. The grain needs to run up and down, and don’t forget a dummy cord from the mount arm to the motor.


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

Wonder if a lazer rudder would work?


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

I think that run around 24 to 30 inches, not sure the thickness.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Jbc1179 said:


> I think that run around 24 to 30 inches, not sure the thickness.


The standard Laser rudder is a tad over $200 and looks like the top could be modified to work with the Galilee.

Laser Rudder:









Here are a few others for comparison for shape and top design. Would be nice if they included dimensions.
Sunfish Rudder:









V15 Rudder:









C420 Rudder:









FJ Rudder:









Taser:









Triak (MK2):


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Jbc1179 said:


> The board on the motor mount is 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 1 1/2. The philips head bolts are 2 1/2 spaced evenly from each other on the lower half of the mount. The wood mount is pretty shot. I'll be cutting a new one tomorrow. The grain needs to run up and down, and don't forget a dummy cord from the mount arm to the motor.


Viva La Differance'

It appears the early versions had the bolt pattern spread higher up. To me it looked like they could interfere with some motor clamps with the nuts and threads sticking out in that area.


































Will you be using Yellow Pine or something else?


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

The Taser rudder looks closest though without dimensions tough to tell. The last rudder I made was out of oak. 32 inches tall and roughly 7 wide. I’ll post a picture tomorrow... like the motor mount and tiller it too is in rough shape.


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

Odd how the earlier mount had bolts spaced higher, I’d assume they were repositioned lower to better accommodate the engine clamp. I think I’ll be making my new mount out of eastern white oak.


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

What color stripe, galilee decal and storage compartment cover do you have? Mine is blue. I’m looking to have a new set of decals made up at a local vinyl sign shop.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Mine is from Nov 1983 with hull number 168 and yours Jul 1986 with hull number 437 so 2 years 9 months older and 269 hulls later so some design changes appear to have been made over that span.

The waterline stripe is medium brown in the Gelcoat and there is no decal as the Galilee 15 branding is also in the gelcoat in black/dark brown lettering.

To cooler cover is almond/bone like the topsides and the storage compartment cover does not exist so I am considering my options there. Do I just get some blue Sunbrella type material put in some stainless snaps and make up my own or make a wooden, plexiglass or sailboard cover? Fabric with snaps would be easier to store and could be made with ties, snaps or velcro to hold it up like a Roman shade while a solid cover would need to be made of multiple pieces it order to make storage more convenient plus a track, etc would need to be installed.

Also since they did not rough it up when they applied the bottom paint and I do not leave it in the water do I wash whats left off or just scrape any loose off and freshen it. It may just rinse off through normal use/regular cleaning and rubs off any time you get within a few inches of it.


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## Jbc1179 (Jul 2, 2018)

Thanks for the measurements on the rudder. Made the rudder, tiller and motor mount of Eastern white oak.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

I finished up my launch extension and its mounting bracket to store it on the trailer. I kept it simple by using the coupler already on it to secure it on the trailer by just pitting a 1/4" thick steel bar with a hitch ball on it across two of the studs for the trailer jack and add a bracket on the rear cross member of the trailer to hook it on so I just slide it into the bracket and snap the coupler on the ball.

I had to taper the aluminum beam near the coupler for clearance to the tongue of the trailer and then weld the bottom back onto the box beam.









Here it is all nicely stored away under the trailer.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Jbc1179 said:


> Thanks for the measurements on the rudder. Made the rudder, tiller and motor mount of Eastern white oak.


Looking good.

I still have not located the 2X12 oak short lengths I had set aside for these types of projects. Hopefully my daughters did not see it and use it up for one of their projects. They only look at dimensions and not at the type of wood and will grab the clear oak, maple or walnut if it fits where they want to put a plank across a few cement blocks for a plant shelf, etc or to use in the ground for landscaping.

Still waiting on the title to clear so its a mute point to get the motor mount finished and this time of year the chances of getting stuck out for an hour or so in a dead calm before a squall comes in is too great to go out without a motor.

Isn't that short shaft Honda running its ventilation plate just about at the waterline? I believe even on the air cooled models they require them to be set 6" below the waterline on a sailboat to keep the input shaft seal on the gearbox wet enough so it doesn't overheat from the exhaust.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Great day today! I got the title cleared on my Galilee. 

It took about a month and I now have a hard copy Florida Title in my name and a two year registration in my hands. It all would have been a lot easier and less expensive if the previous owner had kept the transfer of ownership signed over to him on the previous owners registration and notarized bill of sale. It cost an extra $185 working with a title company to get it all straightened out. I was fortunate that the HID came up clean and there were no leans or other flags on it.

Now to remove the ancient old registration numbers and affix my own.

Any recommendations for getting the old off with the least amount of damage? Whats there is still on very solid even after 20 to 30 years.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Jbc1179 said:


> Thanks for the measurements on the rudder. Made the rudder, tiller and motor mount of Eastern white oak.


JBC - The bolt locations on the 1983 version of the motor mount do interfere with the clamps on newer motors. I had to drill new holes about 2.5 inches lower so the nuts would not be underneath the clamp pads. The newer Honda BF2.3 has two clamp bolts instead of just one like yours.


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## Jagl (Jul 16, 2018)

Thanks for all of the good information on the Galilee 15.

I just picked one up and am excited to get her out on the water. Everything on it is original including the three sails (still in excellent shape). Only thing missing is the splash guard (no biggie).

The only concern is that the cockpit port side seating seems hollow when knocking on it. Starboard side sounds solid when knocking. Any opinions or advise on that hollow sound?

Thanks All...

Jim G

1984
Hull #290


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Jagl said:


> Thanks for all of the good information on the Galilee 15.
> 
> I just picked one up and am excited to get her out on the water. Everything on it is original including the three sails (still in excellent shape). Only thing missing is the splash guard (no biggie).
> 
> ...


I have an inspection hatch in the floor of my cockpit near to the daggerboard trunk and on the bulkhead in front of the rudder shaft so I put a camera in to see the flotation and the foam is mostly in the center and appears to have been poured in while the cockpit was inverted before it was mated with the hull. If nobody removed the cockpit or cut into the bench on the port side to put in inspection ports or hatches for storage lockers then its pretty safe to believe the foam is in there even though its not making a solid sound.

Here is photo of the flotation hanging down from the port benches near to the centerboard trunk on my 1983 (note that its wet because I had the inspection port open during a tropical cloudburst and was in the process of washing out the bilges):


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## Jagl (Jul 16, 2018)

Thank you very much Seastar! I am going to add an inspection hatch as well and take a look. I figure the boat is 34 years old and has made it all of these yeas without an issue with the hollow sounding port bench so should be good.


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## sgdby65 (Jul 28, 2018)

Hello, I've recently become the owner of a Galilee 15 and although the hull is in good condition it is lacking a few necessary parts, like the boom and the tiller/rudder assembly. So, what size Dwyer boom is used on this boat? I'm fairly confident I can fabricate a new tiller/rudder assembly, although any photos of the original assembly would be appreciated.
thanks,
Steven


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

sgdby65 said:


> Hello, I've recently become the owner of a Galilee 15 and although the hull is in good condition it is lacking a few necessary parts, like the boom and the tiller/rudder assembly. So, what size Dwyer boom is used on this boat? I'm fairly confident I can fabricate a new tiller/rudder assembly, although any photos of the original assembly would be appreciated.
> thanks,
> Steven


Photos of the original rudder are at the top of page 6 of this thread along with the diagrams from the owners manual on how the lift and lower lines are rigged through the 1 inch stainless steel rudder shaft. I used a 1 inch deck stanchion as the foundation for my tiller head and two fairlead cleats were mounted on the wooden tiller handle for the 1/4 inch rudder control lines. UHMD from the local WoodCraft store was used to make a low friction bushing between the tiller head and the top of the stern.

I will measure up the dimensions of the boom and get back to you. The boom along with the goose neck are standard Dwyer parts. The mast and the boom were filled with lengths of square closed cell flotation foam from the factory.

I highly recommend downloading the owners manual and original brochure that are posted on-line as they will answer many questions about how the boat is setup.

http://rvharvey.com/Galilee15OwnersManual.pdf

http://ruach.net/Boats/Galilee15SalesBrochure.pdf

Here is a link to one that was for sale in PORTERSVILLE, PA and has some nice pictures of how its setup:
https://lunnysauto.com/detail/15-GALILEE-FIBERGLASS-SAILBOAT-WITH-TRAILER-AND_163109306429.html


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Here is a picture of my light bar along with some detail on the mast, boom and tiller:


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## sgdby65 (Jul 28, 2018)

SeaStar58,
Thanks for the response. Looking forward to learning the dimensions of the Boom on your boat. I have some 11' x 1.5" round aluminum tubing that I thought I might be able to repurpose for a boom on the Galilee. 
Steven


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

sgdby65 said:


> SeaStar58,
> Thanks for the response. Looking forward to learning the dimensions of the Boom on your boat. I have some 11' x 1.5" round aluminum tubing that I thought I might be able to repurpose for a boom on the Galilee.
> Steven


The tube for the boom on the Galilee is 2" X 90" (7' 6") so that would be Dwyers RT 2000 Tubing which is clear anodized so it is not a perfect match to the black anodized mast but will work:

https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=90&cat1Name=Round+Tubing&familyID=56&familyName=Aluminum+Tubing

The goose neck appears to be a DH 353-1S.

The bail is located 42" to center from the goose neck end of the tube and has a 1 1/2" fiddle block for the 3/8" sheets hanging from it.

Right next to the end cap on the port side of the boom is the eye strap for the 1/4" out haul line.

Right next to the end cap on the starboard side of the boom is the cheek block for the 1/4" out haul line.

On the starboard side of the boom 16" to center from the end of the boom tubing (at the end cap) is the out haul cleat.

The owners manual at the link previously listed will provide details with drawings on how to rig the sheets, down haul and out haul.


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## sgdby65 (Jul 28, 2018)

SeaStar58,
Thanks again. Exactly what I was needing.
Steven


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## Jagl (Jul 16, 2018)

Here is a photo showing the boom measurement.

Let me know if you need more pics of the boom detail.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

The Sails are available from a number of vendors on-line too:

Galilee 15 Sailboat Sails For Sale: Headsail, Jib and Genoa

Galilee 15 Sailboat Sails For Sale: Mainsail

Galilee 15 Genoa Sail by Super Sailmakers

Galilee 15 Jib Sail by Super Sailmakers

Galilee 15 Main Sail by Super Sailmakers

https://www.americansail.com/products/replacement-sails/sails-for-other-makes


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## seven1113 (Apr 22, 2020)

Does anybody have an idea where I can buy sails for the Galilee 15? Anyone have a good set for sale?

Thank you.
Carolyn


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

seven1113 said:


> Does anybody have an idea where I can buy sails for the Galilee 15? Anyone have a good set for sale?
> 
> Thank you.
> Carolyn


You can purchase the sails from the first 2 sail lofts listed in the post right above yours. American appears to have stopped making sails for other brands of boats.


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## OldMotherHubbard (Jul 23, 2020)

SeaStar58 said:


> You can purchase the sails from the first 2 sail lofts listed in the post right above yours. American appears to have stopped making sails for other brands of boats.


This thread is so old I wonder if anyone is still following Galilee 15 boats and issues. I'm still sailing one:








Dodger made a huge difference, we sail open Atlantic in Maine, weather permitting... Boat is entirely original, complete, excellent condition, stored indoors winters. I can supply measurements, photos of any original parts anyone might need to re-invent. Only issue was failed cheek plate to stem weld, now reinforced. Now for sale, if there's any interest.


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## Timq (Jul 24, 2021)

cpick98 said:


> I recently managed to break off the cheek plates off the rudder post of my Galilee 15 and lose the rudder - and all steering. Anyone know of a reasonable replacement rudder or have one lying around from a junked Galilee 15? I figure if I can get new cheek plates made and welded on - but then I need a rudder blade. Any other suggestions for the repair would be helpful. Thanks!
> 
> Chris P


I recently picked up a Galilee 15 and it works pretty well. But I am trying to replace the lines that go into the rudder under the "cheekplate"? and then goes up the rudder post. I don't understand how the lines attach to the rudder under the cheek plate as the lines are mashed under that plate when bolted down. Seems like there ought to be space for the lines to move. Any ideas?


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## Timq (Jul 24, 2021)

bigred said:


> I realize this is an old posting but wondering if you had found a good source for parts, etc. I just purchased a 15 in excellent shape but not sure what the future holds. Also, not sure where to attach a topping lift on the mast as this boat does not have one installed. Any help would be appreciated. (also not sure how to post for all to see)
> Thanks,
> John


John or anyone. I just picked up a 15. I'm looking for info and wonder if someone could call me? Not clear on how the self bailing plug works and lines in the rudder. Tim 859 468 7300 any help appreciated 
Thanks


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Timq said:


> John or anyone. I just picked up a 15. I'm looking for info and wonder if someone could call me? Not clear on how the self bailing plug works and lines in the rudder. Tim 859 468 7300 any help appreciated
> Thanks


Congrats. I bought a Galilee 15 a few months ago too. The bailing plug has a lever that engages a cam when pressed to wedge the plug into the hole in the deck. Simple as that. The rudder is buoyant, so you'll use one of the lines to deploy when on the water. The other is used to stow. Both route through holes on either side of rudder handle hardware. There is a cleat at the base of the rudder handle to hold tension on the active line. There is a good illustration of the rudder lines earlier in this thread. I can share some pictures if my account will allow. Cheers, Dan


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## Timq (Jul 24, 2021)

Hi Dan
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately my self bailing consists of an opening through the hull and a plug that screws into the top. Would you have anymore info or a picture. I guess the cam was removed???
Also, we replaced the lines in the rudder anticipating the lines to do exactly what you described. The lines come up the tube to the top of the tiller but they do not move the rudder up or down. We were unclear how the lines could move as the plates on the rudder press in on the rudder permitting no movement. Sorry for the extended message but I can't find explanation anywhere on these questions. If you would call 859 468 7300 that would be great! Thanks


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Timq said:


> Hi Dan
> Thanks for the info. Unfortunately my self bailing consists of an opening through the hull and a plug that screws into the top. Would you have anymore info or a picture. I guess the cam was removed???
> Also, we replaced the lines in the rudder anticipating the lines to do exactly what you described. The lines come up the tube to the top of the tiller but they do not move the rudder up or down. We were unclear how the lines could move as the plates on the rudder press in on the rudder permitting no movement. Sorry for the extended message but I can't find explanation anywhere on these questions. If you would call 859 468 7300 that would be great! Thanks


Make sure the rudder pivots up and down freely. Your locking nut might be too tight. Also check that the lines aren't inadvertently snagged between the rudder and metal plates between which the rudder pivots. I found both issues to be true for mine. The guy who sold it had recently painted it and got a bit sloppy assembling and overzealous when tightening. The lines route behind the rudder and up the tube. One of the lines routes over a pivot to provide mechanical advantage to pull the rudder upward. The rudder is buoyant and does require a pretty firm tug to deploy when submerged. I'll take some pics and post in a bit. Cheers, Dan


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Pics of cockpit plug, rudder and the screw plug aft. I leave all these plugs closed. The white line on rudder is pulled to deploy while an alternate cable routes internally under the top bolt in the rudder pic. The bolt has a rotating sleeve that reduces drag when pulling rudder up.


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Danzaid said:


> Pics of cockpit plug, rudder and the screw plug aft. I leave all these plugs closed. The white line on rudder is pulled to deploy while an alternate cable routes internally under the top bolt in the rudder pic. The bolt has a rotating sleeve that reduces drag when pulling rudder up.
> View attachment 139956
> View attachment 139957
> View attachment 139958


FYI The illustration of rudder lines was captured earlier in this thread - https://www.sailnet.com/attachments/galileerudder-jpg.118266/


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## Timq (Jul 24, 2021)

Great info! The self bailer is really just a plug. My thought on self bailing was something that lets water out of the cockpit while blocking water from coming in...go figure. I've ordered the right plug..
Your rudder appears upside down compared to ours (check the notch). You have a screw eye of sorts on the top of the rudder with a line to hoist it up, we do not. We have two holes inside the rudder under the plates. The manual says put knots on the lines in those holes. So it's no wonder the lines and rudder don't move. Not sure how to correct this or if our rudder is upside-down. Check attached pix..



















What's your thoughts?


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Ha! My rudder is backwards! Lovely… This predates my incompetence for sure. There is a bracket on the aft of rudder to keep it stowed upwards that has a purple line connected. This was installed by prior owner. So oops on them. Perhaps the engagement of rudder works better in proper orientation? No idea. The “self bailing” feature I believe is a reference to the boats integral foam and buoyancy. If one is to move forward after pulling the drain plug the water should evacuate. It definitely doesn’t bail when I am sitting by drain hole. Found this out the last time on water. Me and the outboard are too much ballast for the boat to overcome. Water flowed up like a fountain when I inadvertently dislodged the plug.


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## Timq (Jul 24, 2021)

Great stuff...too funny. Not sure yours is upside-down. I do like the bracket for uphaul..ours just doesn't pull up easily at all. Is there a difference on orientation?
Love your ballast comment!
Can't thank you enough.


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

Saillife is the best and Boatworks Today is great.





Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

So I just removed the rudder to flip it and reverse the hardware mounted on it. I’m going to pass on reattaching the hardware. Turns out this was not watertight and allowed water to breach the interior of the rudder. Thing was completely waterlogged. Weighed a good 5-10 lbs more than it should. DOH! I got the water out and epoxied over the holes. I’ll reattach cables and come up with a sling to secure the rudder. Good eye!


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Oh, so again the fact that a “properly” functioning rudder is buoyant makes deploying and raising on water easier. It should definitely pivot easily when mounted. Pulling firmly on the cables is enough on the water, but the exercise on land feels futile. There was cussing involved when wife and I were testing it on land.


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Also, it looks like you aren't routing the cables into the rudder correctly and as a result they are binding up. They need to run through guide holes on edge near each hole and hen you knot them in the large


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

…knot them in the large recessed hole. Your cords might be too thin to knot once, you might need to knot them a few times to ensure they don’t pull out. On mine it appears they were dipped in epoxy to ensure they stayed knotted.


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Like so&#8230;


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## Timq (Jul 24, 2021)

Danzaid said:


> Like so&#8230;
> View attachment 139967
> 
> [/QU
> Wow! Well very interesting. Looks like you have holes on the top of the rudder that allows the lines to go down to the larger holes where you make knots. We will double check but we don't have those lead holes. In fact the old line went from large hole across to the other. We've connected an knotted lines going into those holes separately but the lines are fouled when we tighten the disc's down. That's why we're so frustrated...


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## Danzaid (Jul 31, 2021)

Yeah, that's a quandary.. perhaps the holes were plugged up? You definitely can't have the rope wrapped around the rudder. That will seize it up for sure.


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## Timq (Jul 24, 2021)

Danzaid said:


> Yeah, that's a quandary.. perhaps the holes were plugged up? You definitely can't have the rope wrapped around the rudder. That will seize it up for sure.


Sure don't know...but thanks for your time and help! Cheers


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## AndreiS (Sep 28, 2021)

I think I bought my first sailboat (Galilee 15) from @Timq lol. Small world

Speaking of self-bailing
Here is what I did
Self-bailer for sailing boat (Thread 1.125mm) by andrei_surzhan









Inspired by


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## Dennis J (Sep 29, 2021)

jeffandy25 said:


> Have you been able to find replacements parts when things break or go missing? I need a new tiller head as a major piece has broken off into the ocean...Any ideas?
> 
> JeffAndy25


My sister owns a Galilee 15 and had the same problem. She found a boat yard that had the tiller part in Annapolis MD. I'll see if I can get the name of it from her. We were amazed that anyone had these parts since only 500 were manufactured. It is a great boat for first time sailors or families as it is very forgiving, but not very exciting to sail it that is your thing. However, it beats not having a sailboat! We sail it on one of the ponds up in Cape Cod and it is always enjoyable to be out on the water.


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## CFurg (5 mo ago)

Danzaid said:


> Ha! My rudder is backwards! Lovely… This predates my incompetence for sure. There is a bracket on the aft of rudder to keep it stowed upwards that has a purple line connected. This was installed by prior owner. So oops on them. Perhaps the engagement of rudder works better in proper orientation? No idea. The “self bailing” feature I believe is a reference to the boats integral foam and buoyancy. If one is to move forward after pulling the drain plug the water should evacuate. It definitely doesn’t bail when I am sitting by drain hole. Found this out the last time on water. Me and the outboard are too much ballast for the boat to overcome. Water flowed up like a fountain when I inadvertently dislodged the plug.


Same here regarding the "self-bailing" feature. Also, the "hull drain" appears higher than the bilge so it only drains when on the trailer or hauling out. Does everyone just use plugs on these two "drains"?


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## CFurg (5 mo ago)

Danzaid said:


> Ha! My rudder is backwards! Lovely… This predates my incompetence for sure. There is a bracket on the aft of rudder to keep it stowed upwards that has a purple line connected. This was installed by prior owner. So oops on them. Perhaps the engagement of rudder works better in proper orientation? No idea. The “self bailing” feature I believe is a reference to the boats integral foam and buoyancy. If one is to move forward after pulling the drain plug the water should evacuate. It definitely doesn’t bail when I am sitting by drain hole. Found this out the last time on water. Me and the outboard are too much ballast for the boat to overcome. Water flowed up like a fountain when I inadvertently dislodged the plug.


Same here regarding the "self-bailing" feature. Also, the "hull drain" appears higher than the bilge so it only drains when on the trailer or hauling out. Does everyone just use plugs on these two "drains"?


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