# Nauticat pilothouse 33



## bigsarg1 (Aug 24, 2005)

I understand these boats have NO core materials. Is this true, is this better than having balsa wood as a core? Also, does this boat have an external keel? Ant information on these boats would be helpful. Thanks


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

Guess I must be the only one here with a NC33. You're correct about Nauticats having no cored materials, below or above the waterline. The FRP on all true Nauticats from the early 70's, right up to today, is of solid fiberglass. The greatest advantages of solid glass over balsa, or synthetic cored hulls, are hull strength, resistance to impact damage, and water resistance. The diasadvantage over boats with cored hulls, is increased weight. My 33 displaces 18,000 lbs, but is built extremely tough. In fact, Nauticat Yachts has the undisputed reputation as builder of "the world's best-built motorsailers."

Once a balsa cored hull's thin skin is ruptured, whether on the inside or exterior face, water will migrate to the inner core & rot the core material, leading to a spongey and unsound structure. There are no such worries on these wonderful boats. My NC33 has solid teak planked decking, screwed & bunged over a solid glass substrate. Since the deck screws don't penetrate through the 5/8" thick fiberglass, if the bungs are ever compromised, or screws loosen, cabin leaks typically would not occur.

Keel designs do vary with production year. But most keels have a fiberglass encapsulated ballast, including mine, which was produced with the tall rig, modified fin keel and skeg-hung rudder option. Nauticats have always been built by the same boat builders in Finland. To learn more you could visit the Nauticat Yachts website - http://www.nauticat.fi/ , click on Yachts, then Traditional Motorsailers, and Nauticat 331, for a description of the current 33 ft model . These new models have undergone several design modifications, but still retain the similar lines and overall concept as the originals. I have posted some photos of True Blue in the gallery section, if interested. Feel free to ask more specific questions.

Steve


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## bigsarg1 (Aug 24, 2005)

*Nc33*

Thank you for the information. I am thinking of a pilothouse 33. I like the no cored hulls. Sounda like a tank And, thats a good thing). Does the boats sail well? What are some areas that I should really look at before I make an offer, and get a survey done, that would be a deal breaker?


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

The concept of a motorsailer is to take the fullest advantage of apparent wind, when there is no wind. With my boat having the tall rig/fin keel option, and with the Lehman SuperTurbo 90 hp diesel iron genoa - under full sail, I can motorsail at a very low engine rpm (1800 rpm) and vastly exceed hull speed @ 8.5 to 9 knots. My boat's motoring range is 700-800 nm, increases while motorsailing & of course, unlimited under sail only.

These boats do not sail well in under 10 knots of wind. However, I've easily reached 6.5 knots in only a 15 knot, broad reach, with sails only. Since this upcoming season is only my second with this boat, we haven't had much opportunity to reach maximum potential. The learning curve is short with Nauticat 33s - ketch rigged. They're easy boats to handle (and single hand) due to the relatively small sails, although . . . the genoa 150 is quite large on my boat. There is a total of 670 +- sf of sail area, more with the staysail hanked on the inner forestay.

As with all sailboats, achieved speed under sail is relative to the skills of the helmsman & crew. The full, shoal draft keel, short mast versions of NC33s however, from what I have heard, sail slower & point poorly. I personally, have not experienced these problems and would recommend that you test sail a tall rig model, if you can find one. 

Best of luck in your search.

Steve


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## bigsarg1 (Aug 24, 2005)

*looks great*

I looked at your boat in the galleries. It is the same type boat that I will be looking at. Is there anything that I should pay close attention to when I first look at the boat (preservey) and any other information will be helpful. The one I am looking at is a 1986 33 ketch. Asking $92900. Books at: Resale value is estimated to be $75,172.00.


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## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

That "book" value is low, if the 1986 model you are looking at is well equipped and in good condition. Your broker may be able to share actual contract prices of NC33s, sold within the past 2 years. That is the best barometer of market value. I won't share what my actual costs were for my 1986 NC33, hull #971, in a public forum, but could share some potential problem items with you and a pdf copy of a great review article by emailing me, or sending a PM.

Steve


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## bigsarg1 (Aug 24, 2005)

*Thanks for all the help*

Thanks for all the help, You can email me at: [email protected]


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## blackjenner (Feb 5, 2010)

TrueBlue said:


> That "book" value is low, if the 1986 model you are looking at is well equipped and in good condition. Your broker may be able to share actual contract prices of NC33s, sold within the past 2 years. That is the best barometer of market value. I won't share what my actual costs were for my 1986 NC33, hull #971, in a public forum, but could share some potential problem items with you and a pdf copy of a great review article by emailing me, or sending a PM.
> 
> Steve


I did note that you sold the nauticat. We are looking at one and I was wondering if you would be so kind as to share what you know. I have read this thread in detail.

Thank you.

[email protected]


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## eherlihy (Jan 2, 2007)

Black Jenner,

christyleigh is another Nauticat 33 owner that is more active on Sailnet than TB (since he sold the boat). I suggest that you PM him to ask the questions that you want to ask.


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## blackjenner (Feb 5, 2010)

eherlihy said:


> Black Jenner,
> 
> christyleigh is another Nauticat 33 owner that is more active on Sailnet than TB (since he sold the boat). I suggest that you PM him to ask the questions that you want to ask.


thank you.


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## Robert Spong (Dec 30, 2017)

Steve,
Looking for a wiring diagram for my 33 ketch.
Having problems starting the diesel engine.
I suspect their is an interconnect switch between rear shifter and engine start switch?
Regards,
Robert


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Robert.. True Blue/Steve hasn't posted here since September, and no longer owns the Nauticat. However, if you participate here you can send him a PM once you get 10 posts or so. He may well get a notification of a PM.


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

First thing I'd do is get a remote start switch from any auto parts store. If the engine won't start with this, and it is from not enough power to the starter (turns over very slowly or not at all, but you can hear the bendix engage), then you most likely have a faulty connection somewhere in the circuit or bad batteries. 
If the solenoid clicks but does not throw the bendix in, then it could be the solenoid, starter or a faulty connection/batteries. 90% of the time these problems are caused by faulty connections, often in the negative line, at a ground. Rarely, it is a problem in the start circuit with the switch or in the harness. Best advice I can give you is check every connection very thoroughly. Clean them and redo any that are suspect.
Very occasionally a cable from the battery to the starter or ground can get a small hole in the casing/insulation, allowing water intrusion, and the wire itself can corrode to the point that it cannot carry the load to start the engine. You can determine that by running another cable or jumper cables temporarily.


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## wrwakefield (Nov 18, 2015)

Robert Spong said:


> Steve,
> Looking for a wiring diagram for my 33 ketch.
> Having problems starting the diesel engine.
> I suspect their is an interconnect switch between rear shifter and engine start switch?
> ...


Robert,

We have a Nauticat 43. If your 33 is set up the same way with single lever engine controls at both helms, then originally they had neutral lockout. That means both helm engine controls need to be in neutral for the engine to turn over and start. [I suspect you already knew this...]

When motoring, this system also locks out the unused control... [i.e., in order to take the helm at the opposite station, the lever that has control of the engine needs to be placed in neutral before the lazy control can be put into gear and take over controlling the engine.]

Back to what I suspect is the issue you are asking about: Sometimes when our engine won't turnover with the ignition key, we have to 'wiggle' one or both engine controls in neutral to get past the lock-out that prevents starting the engine in gear.

Sometimes the panel where all the cables meet [and where the lock-out mechanism exists] needs adjusting and/or lubricating.

There was a fairly recent, detailed discussion in the Nauticat Owners Group. [Yahoo Group; Only members may post... just go there and ask and the moderators will provide you with access...]

In case this is helpful...

Cheers! Bill

PS: [Edit: Here is the link in the Nauticat Group to one of those recent conversations I mentioned. You can use it once you are provided access... The search phrase I used for the topic was "Engine Stop Solenoid" [The subject is misleading- it discusses what you are asking about...]


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

Sorry, I missed the neutral safety switch comment. That's a real easy one to check. It's on the side of the transmission. Two wires run to it. Jump the wires and if that is the problem, the engine will start right up. If not, then the jumper won't change a thing, but remove it or you can start the engine in gear anytime.
I removed mine, but we only have one set of controls to check. However, in an emergency, I'd much prefer to start in gear, than not start because that switch has failed.


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## wrwakefield (Nov 18, 2015)

capta said:


> Sorry, I missed the neutral safety switch comment. That's a real easy one to check. It's on the side of the transmission. Two wires run to it. Jump the wires and if that is the problem, the engine will start right up. If not, then the jumper won't change a thing, but remove it or you can start the engine in gear anytime.
> I removed mine, but we only have one set of controls to check. However, in an emergency, I'd much prefer to start in gear, than not start because that switch has failed.


I agree about being able to override the neutral start lockout, Capta.

I didn't mention it, but given two helms, I plan to install a momentary switch to override the lockout for emergencies... [Like I did for combining all battery banks temporarily- using relays- for emergency starts...]

It might be worth mentioning another engine start lockout that sometimes gets overlooked: the engine room fire suppression system... Yes, we have an override on the engine kill portion of that for extreme situations...

Cheers! Bill


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## Robert Spong (Dec 30, 2017)

Capta,
Thank you so much for your reply.
We did run jumpers to the starter and it starts right up.
I just thought there might be a safety switch on the outside shifter.
If the aft shifter is in gear when someone is in the cabin and decides to start the motor wouldn't that be dangerous.
So you can gauge our knowledge base, my friend just bought this boat as a project and I am trying to help where I can.
But both of us have very limited experience.
Thanks for your help.
We will check fittings and wiring today.
Regards,
Robert


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## Robert Spong (Dec 30, 2017)

Bill,
Thank you this was most helpful.
My friend and I are limited in knowledge regarding this vessel, but having fun learning.
We will check today and see if this is the issue.
I like simple fixes but rarely get so lucky.
Regards,
Robert


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## capta (Jun 27, 2011)

Robert Spong said:


> Capta,
> Thank you so much for your reply.
> We did run jumpers to the starter and it starts right up.
> I just thought there might be a safety switch on the outside shifter.
> ...


I've never seen a neutral start safety switch on a shifter, in my 5 decades+ of operating vessels of all sorts. That's not to say it can't be done, but it's so much easier and efficient at the transmission, as it will cover any number of independent shifters, even if they are air or hydraulic.


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