# Hints and tips



## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

Fellow Sailnetters:

I've got an idea for what could be a useful thread - given the vast experience of the members of this forum. It could be fun to each add our favorite tips and hints to make life easier, more efficient, more comfortable, less backbreaking, safer...whatever.

If we each labeled the hint or tip with a suitable title, we could even compile the list and alphabetize or categorize it. Or not.

I'll start with a couple:

*Varnish tip:*

Next time the prettier member of your crew empties a fingernail polish jar, grab it and clean it out with acetone. Then fill it with your favorite varnish. When you happen to see a nick, ding or abrasion in your varnish, (refill your rum glass), get out your varnish bottle with the handy built in brush and dab away. This will keep water intrusion from ruining your varnish until the next time you apply a maintenance coat.

*Chart book tip:

*Saltwater Suzi came up with this one and got it published in Cruising World a few years back. We keep our chart book on deck under the dodger. She puts one of those metal plates you get from the sewing store for counted cross stitch patterns behind the page we are on. The kit comes with a little strip magnet about 2" by 1/2". It can be easily cut with scissors.She cuts a point at one end of the magnet and places it on the chart to indicate our position and direction when we are on the ICW or coming into a confusing inlet. That way if we have to leave the helmsman to go below - he can quickly glance at the chart and see exactly where we are. We tried post-it notes but they kept blowing away.


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

Oh man, this will be fun..... I have a million of these. Some even work.

To keep the clear plastic dome on the compass from crazing and clouding, apply a liberal coating of mineral oil very month or so (whenever it looks dry). New compasses will stay new nearly forever. Minor crazing on older compasses will disappear. For winter storage, apply an extra heavy dose and wrap the compass with a plastic bag. In the spring, the oil will still be there and the compass will look great. Better than spending $700 on an offshore compass. Been doing this for 30 years.... time proven.


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

Grease Fittings
If you have grease cups on the upper and lower rudder bushings like I did, replace them with grease fittings and buy a grease gun. Better than contorting yourself to get in a hatch an load the cups over and over.


----------



## eryka (Mar 16, 2006)

anchor chain: paint a link every 10 or 20 feet, or put a colored plastic tie around it, so you can tell at a glance how much you have out. We have a red at 20 feet, a yellow at 40 ft, etc.


----------



## Boasun (Feb 10, 2007)

For boats with Reefs. Put a whipping on the halyard at each point when you have lower the sail for that reefing point. Thus you can feel it on a dark night as you take in a reef. Two reefs on the sail, two whippings on the halyard.


----------



## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

Come on, Guys and Gals, Sailors and Sailorettes (Sailoreens?), let's keep this one going - I want to hear from each and every one of you - NO rules about posting more than once.

Here's two more - both from Saltwater Suzi, who has a much better memory than I do. (Mine is so bad, I only need one DVD - watch it over and over. Trouble is, I can't remember where I put it.)

Suzi Sez:

*Isenglass*:

Keep a pair of soft cotton or soft jersey gloves handy in your cockpit to wear when you're rolling up your Isenglass (clear vinyl) zippered inserts in your dodger or enclosure - to keep those greasy fingerprints and hand prints off of the isenglass.

If you must roll up the isensglass when it is wet or even just damp - unroll it at your first opportunity - when the sun hits that moisture it 'cooks' the glass and fogs the glass - sometimes permanently.

*Boat Cards

*When cruising, most people make 2" x 3.5" boat cards - usually on their computer - (because the information for cruisers changes too frequently to make it worth having them printed). These cards can be exchanged with other boaters you meet along the way. And here's the tip: when you receive one - write on the back where and when you met them - you think you'll remember but you don't. It's amazing how often you run into the same people. We keep a business card notebook (office supply stores have them). When we see a boat that looks familiar - we leaf through it, find their card and call them on the VHF. Wine and cheese often results. Sometimes a fish dinner with the catch of the day, if we're lucky.


----------



## soulesailor (Nov 18, 2007)

*Hank-on sails*

For those of us who actually still use hank-on sails:

I attached a 2' tether to a bow padeye with a simple bowline. The other end has a snap shackle. Before attaching/disattaching the halyard to the head of the sail I snap on this tether to the halyard. My halyard is never disattached from the boat on either end. Ever. This eliminates one way of losing a halyard to the masthead.


----------



## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Get a Weems & Plath Chart Protractor and end the struggle with walking your compass rose over to your course line and plot any course in 10 seconds. Great invention and best $15 bucks I ever spent! 
Weems & Plath Protractor


----------



## Boasun (Feb 10, 2007)

Work up a "Pre-Departure Check Off List" and one for "Pre-Arrival." Thus you can be sure if all that needs to be done is completed before to doing either one.
That is if you use the lists. 


Check your engine both ahead and astern, before you get underway and before you make your approach to the pier. Have had engines stuck in forward and astern when I had to get underway and when making a landing. It does make for interesting times when that happens.


----------



## SEMIJim (Jun 9, 2007)

Quick and convenient way to pre-cut packing gland material: Do it on the prop shaft _outside_ the boat, where it's very easy to get to. (Assuming she's on the hard.)

Jim


----------



## capttb (Dec 13, 2003)

Okay, here's a two fer one I've relearned many times. IF you have any shackles WITHOUT captured or seized pins carry SPARES in a handy location.


----------



## Giulietta (Nov 14, 2006)

When tying the the Genoa sheets to the sail, tie a bowline in a large loop, the longer the better.

Why?? In case of emergency or to reach the sail, its easier done if the knot is still inside the boat, as the photos show.

If you tie too near the sail, you need to reach outside the boat to undo the knot if needed. This way the knot is whithin reach of the arm.


----------



## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

That's a great tip Giu, but I have a question. I know you use Dyneema rope for most lines on your boat because of it's relatively higher strength over other, thicker brands.

But, is the thinner line more difficult to grasp and do you find that it tends to get snagged under hatches?


----------



## sailaway21 (Sep 4, 2006)

If you're trying to make a fillet with silicone or adhesive polyurethane, dip your finger in a solution of water and dish soap-it'll keep the silicone from sticking to your finger as you smooth it out.


----------



## Giulietta (Nov 14, 2006)

TB, yes, all my lines are dyneema, but the ones that are to be touched by the hand are the ones with outer shell, spliced into the thiner shell less rope.

All lines inside mast and the halyards that come from the mast out to the sails and where one doesn't have to grab by hand are simple core dyneema, to reduce friction, specially the ones ran into blocks and sheaves.

The lazy sheet in that photo is under the hatch, but the gap is wider than the sheet thickness. Altough it goes under the hatch gap it does not snag..and never has.

They are normally spliced together at the mast base, here is an example that is my outhaul.










And the photo bellow shows where the halyards transition from thin low friction dyneema rope to thick shell dyneema, (the part that one pulls), you can see the different colour.


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

*Pre-Sail Briefing*
We entertain quite a few friends and clients onboard Victoria. My work for the U.S. Navy takes me to sea at times and we always conduct pre-sail briefings. On Victoria, we extended the practice to anyone new to the boat regardless of their experience level. We gather everyone in the cockpit and review a two-side printed page that covers man-overboard procedures, flare location, use of the head, engine startup, life jacket location, swimming rules, etc. As new experiences occur, we modify the brief. We also let guests wander around the boat for about 15-30 minutes before we brief them. I use the time to watch and gauge their comfort, balance, and competence.

We've received numerous comments afterward that our guests felt a greater confidence in what to do on the boat and in our competence and operators.  We've even received compliments from another boater that overheard the brief and planned to start doing the same.


----------



## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

Sabreman,

Can you post a copy of your pre-sail briefings.

Great posts everybody! Keep 'em coming!


----------



## Giulietta (Nov 14, 2006)

If you are going to use an assymetrical spinnaker when sailing alone or when sailing with less experienced crew, or even if you do not have much experience yourself, rig a quick release clew shackle.

Basically in the clew shackle trigger, you rig a smaller diameter line that you route back to the cockpit, and secure in a easy to reach location, that once pulled allows the clew shackle to open..(joking in my country we call that the "hand brake")...

Then in the event of a broach, a large puff or simply a loss of control, where you need to release the sail quickly, simply pull the "hand brake" and the sail clew will release...then bring the spi down by pulling on the sheet, until you have things in control again..

See the drwaings bellow that show how to rig, the emergency release line is line A:



















This is the brand I use HR swivel eye.


----------



## PBzeer (Nov 11, 2002)

Always have some 2 1/2 gal, 1 gal, and 1 qt closeable plastic bags on hand. I especially use the 1 gal for sliding up over the fuel filter when changing, thus, any diesel goes in the bag instead of the bilge. Also, an empty battery case makes a good place to put the bag with the old filter and fuel in it, until you can properly dispose of it.


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

LarryandSusan - Gladly, how I you post a pdf? Do I need to supply a separate link (think so)?

PBzeer - I really like he plastic baggie idea. Very smooth


----------



## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

Sabreman,


> LarryandSusan - Gladly, how I you post a pdf? Do I need to supply a separate link (think so)?


Assuming you're working on a PC and not a MAC (I know nothing from Mac's, in spite of the fact that I am one) bring up your PDF document, hit Ctrl A (which selects All); hit Ctrl C (which copies selected); then go back to the thread, go to the 'Post Quick Reply' or 'Go Advanced' and hit Ctrl V, which inserts the thing copied into the message.

I don't know what it does with a PDF file - but with a Word document it inserts smiley faces in place of some of the format stuff. (I edit them out - annoying but I don't know a way around it.)


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

The pre-sail brief looks better with our Victoria graphic and another of the boat layout showing life preserver and fire extinguisher locations. Anyway, the following gets the point across:

Rev: 9/07 
Welcome aboard VICTORIA! We want your stay to be fun, so we’ve 
compiled a guide of important information to make your sail safe. 

Safety 
1. Man Overboard 
• If you see anyone go over the side (unintentionally), call out loudly “Man Overboard!” and 
point to the victim. DO NOT TAKE YOUR EYES OFF THE PERSON IN THE WATER. 
• Whoever is closest to the yellow life ring should throw the ring to the person in the water. DO NOT THROW THE RING AT THE VICTIM. 
• It may take a few minutes to bring the boat around, so make sure that you do not lose sight of the victim. 

2. Movement Afloat 
• We do not restrict movement except as weather conditions warrant. However, there may be times such as during sail changes and docking when we will call everyone aft to the cockpit. 
• Children who can not swim or who are under age 10 are required to wear a life preserver when outside the cabin. 

3. Alcohol 
• No consumption while we’re away from the dock. 

4. Fire 
• We carry three fire extinguishers. 
• Inside the port (left) side locker in the cockpit. 
• At the foot of the companionway steps, starboard (right) side. 
• In the starboard (right) hanging locker (closet) across from the head (bathroom) 
• Point the extinguisher at the BASE of the fire and pull the trigger. 

5. Life Preservers 

• We carry 6 adult and 2 child life preservers. 
• Four adult preservers are located in the Lazarette hatch behind the wheel. 
• Two adult and 2 child preservers are located in the hanging locker in the Head (Bathroom). 

6. Bilge Pumps 
• A manual Bilge pump is located on the port (left) side to the left of the steering wheel near the 
floor. The handle is located under the second step of the companionway steps. The handle 
inserted in the hole on the pump. 
• An automatic bilge pump is located in the bilge. 
7. Distress Signals 
• We carry handheld and aerial flares. NEVER POINT A FLARE AT ANYONE. They are 
located in the chart table. 
Rev: 9/07 
8. Swimming 
• If you are not comfortable swimming in deep water, Use a Life Jacket! It’s not wimpy! 
• We trail a float about 30 feet behind the boat. Under no circumstances should you be farther 
from the boat than the float. 
• We maintain a “lifeguard” in the boat at all times while someone is in the water. Under no 
circumstances, should VICTORIA be un-attended 
• Weather conditions change rapidly. We may curtail swimming if the conditions change. 

First Aid 
1. First Aid Kit Location 
• A Red Cross First-aid kit is located in the cabinet in the Head. Small first aid items are also 
located in the head. 

2. Jelly Fish Sting Treatment 
• Vinegar is stored in the galley. Soak a paper towel & apply. It will still sting, but not as bad. 

Systems 
1. Radio 
• Located in the sliding cabinet at the chart table on the starboard (right) side of the boat. 
• To make a distress call, tune the radio to Channel 16 and call “St. Inegoes (“In-knee-goes”) Coast Guard, St. Inegoes Coast Guard, this the sailing vessel VICTORIA.” When the Coast Guard responds, state the nature of the emergency clearly and calmly. You will be directed to switch to another channel (usually 68). After switching, call the Coast Guard again. 

2. Engine 
• VICTORIA has a diesel engine. To start, 
• Push the handle on the right side of the wheel all the way forward. 
• Push in the red SHUTOFF handle beneath the key switch in the starboard (right) side Lazarette hatch. 
• Turn the key located inside the starboard (right) hatch behind the wheel, to the right. 
• Push the START button. 
• If the engine does not start, turn the key to the right, push the pre-heat button for 30 seconds (to 
pre-heat the injectors), and push the start button at the same time. 
• Adjust the engine to about 1000 RPM and shift the transmission into forward by pushing 
DOWN on the handle on the left side of the wheel. Pull the handle UP for reverse. Remember “BACK – UP” 

3. Sails 
• Tremendous tension is placed on all lines. NEVER rest your hand on a line that is under tension. Ask Vicky what can happen. 
• NEVER wrap a line around your hand when pulling on it. 
• Except for rare occasions, jib sheets (the ones that lead to the front sail) should always be wrapped around a winch (looks like a silver can located on each side of the cockpit). 

4. Head (Toilet) 
• Do not be uncomfortable. Use the head. 
• To flush, pull the lever near the handle to the “Flush” position and pump the handle 10-20 
times. Dry the bowl by pushing the lever to the “Dry” position and pumping until dry. If it is 
difficult to pump, hold the lever down while pumping dry. 
• Please do not put anything into the head other than toilet tissue. 
• Fresh water faucets are in the head and galley. A foot pump is located on the floor near each faucet.


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

*Docking*:

Simple procedure that many ignore. The following is a far less dramatic and boring way to dock. When approaching a dock for the first (e.g., a transient situation), tie each dockline, bow and stern, to their respective cleats, run then through their chocks and back over the top of the lifelines. Coil the ends on the deck, ready to be passed over a piling or to a dockmaster.

Discuss the plan to dock with the crew, have them at their positions, and STICK TO THE PLAN. I've skipped various parts of this plan at times and provided afternoon entertainment to lots of spectators.


----------



## Quickstep192 (Jan 6, 2001)

*Sanding Bottom Paint*

I have to admit, this one was thrust upon me. I recently got hauled at a yard that required the use of dustless sanders. I got an orbital sander that uses the sandpaper disks with the holes in them and connected the sander to my shop vac using a length of cheap corrugated sump pump hose. What a difference! Not only did I come out from under the boat without being covered in paint dust, the sander worked more effectively since it wasn't re-grinding the same dust over and over.


----------



## tweitz (Apr 5, 2007)

A hard learned hint for when you run aground (I did say "when," not "if"). While you never throw an anchor, you can often get enough depth to allow kedging off by simply running the rode through the bow roller, then walking the anchor to the stern of the boat and dropping is aft of the boat. If you have a 30 foot boat and the water is 6 feet deep (and it won't be much deeper if you are aground), you will now have a 4:1 scope or so, and that will often give you enough holding power to spin the boat and get off the bar. Be sure to lead the rode outboard of your lifelines, sheets and other obstructions.


----------



## eryka (Mar 16, 2006)

Post a schematic showing the locations of all seacocks and fire extinguishers in your head. Everyone's always looking for reading material there anyway - although you hope they'll never need to know it, your guests will have it memorized in just a couple of days.


----------



## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Like eryka said, having diagrams of where stuff is helps; not just with guests, but also with faulty memory. I made these in Visio2000, so that when viewed in that application it has page links and such to lists of things actually in the locker (good for serious inventory control) but just about anything will do:


----------



## eryka (Mar 16, 2006)

Jeez, Chuckles, and I thought having Excel spreadsheets for locker inventory (which I do) was bad!!


----------



## eryka (Mar 16, 2006)

Tie waste cd's, or even strips of mylar cut from a potato chip bag, to the rigging. As they flash and flutter in the breeze, they deter at least some birds from making a "landing" on your boat.


----------



## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

eryka said:


> Jeez, Chuckles, and I thought having Excel spreadsheets for locker inventory (which I do) was bad!!


I've found from experience it's easier to say 'light grren locker' than locker number 10-3-4 when you need a guest to get a part/piece or even his own fork.
It's a guy thing, we're all visually oriented.


----------



## eryka (Mar 16, 2006)

Good point. Then again, you've also got a much bigger boat.


----------



## Giulietta (Nov 14, 2006)

(I posted this on Gear and Maintenance, but will post here also)

Yesterday I was talking to T34C on the phone, and was asking him to buy me a few blocks I need to make a modification in my boat..

I needed him to get me standup blocks, in this case, for the Spinnaker sheets , I don't like to have springs and other systems that more than often end up snagging some of the lines, in all rearwards blocks, and cockpit area...

So I asked him to get me regular blocks and I would do the "poor man" standing block...

I got a "what the hell is that???" from the otherside of the phone, so I explained that since 1980 I use tenis balls underneath the blocks to keep them up, and this is a good idea for dinghies where we sail barefoot most of the time and kickick the foot of a block with your toes hurts like a devil, ann because its more difficult for the block to snag and hold a line that is accidenataly near it..

So this is what I do:

You will need a block, a padeye (off course attached to the deck, cabin or whatever), and a tenis ball or other soft rubber ball that is hollow and fits the size...










Attach the block as ususal to measure the height between the block and the deck/cabin...










Take a tenis bal and cut a round hole on one side, that has to be wide enough to pass the block shaft...

On the opposite side cut a slot, that is as long as the length of the padeye. Don't be affraid to cut, watch your fingers..










Install the block shaft thru the hole, attach the shackle thru the slot underneath, and attach to the padeye..

BINGO there you have the POOR MAN STANDING BLOCK










You may also cut the ball in half if you need to get different heights...experiment..generaly the more you cut the ball the softer it will be and the more flexible it will be.

This is what I use for my spinnaker standing blocks..

And I have to admit...when you look at a boat, and you see these little tricks applied, such as the tennis ball under a block...one can imediately tell there is someone that knows what he is doing on the boat...I think it also makes the boat look really sporty and racey...

Ahh gets better, yopu can use many colours, as long as tenins industry paints them, and once dirty, just get a new ball.....

Good luck

Alex


----------



## artbyjody (Jan 4, 2008)

For fiberglass sections in your interior where there is a random texture effect, perhaps:

A. You have cut out portions to deck repair from underneath.

Solution: When you set up the fiberglass inlay - take painters plastic and bundle it up in your hand to make a mess of it - then pull it back out and lay on top - tape it in place then run a roller over it. It will stick to the wet epoxy. After said drying time of epoxy - pull off and you will have that textured look - epoxy will not bond to it. The more the plastic is crumpled - the greater the effect.

B. You have sanded down portions of the interior and lost the texture. Use technique in A. with exception - give it only 5-10 minutes as paint will stick to it - and pull it down. If it is a fast drying paint - then bundle up the plastic in your hand and dab the areas as you paint.


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

PVC pipe, when heated in a 400F oven, becomes a rubbery substance you can cut with scissors and form with (gloved) hands, then hardens back to it's original state.


----------



## Lion35 (Sep 28, 2007)

When you buy a CamFlow fan, the white fans with soft blades, they come with two mounts. One is a suction cup and the other is a screw down mount. The suction cup mount (I think most people use the screw down mount) makes a perfect plunger for unclogging sinks and cockpit drains. It works really well and has a threaded insert (originally for the fan base) for attaching a handle.


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

*For those sailors with dogs*

For those sailors with dogs, who have anchored in that isolated gunkhole with 20 yards of beach, framed by rocks and low hanging branches and 200 yards away ... when it's 11pm, and you're trying to hit the sand using dead reckoning, there's an easier way. During that previous run in daylight, place two driveway marker/reflectors in the sand at unequal heights to mark the correct approach; with your flashlight, they'll act like rangelights. Be sure to pick them up after the evening run and put them in your dinghy.


----------



## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

Nice tip, similar to what we've done if overnighting at anchor with our dog. During the first daylight dog run to the beach in the dinghy, I look for a long driftwood branch or board and drive it into the sand, just above the high water line. 

The upright can be easily spotted at night with a flashlight and serves the same purpose as the driveway markers. Not as reflective, but is natural and can be left in place for the next dog owners.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

If you choose to melt the end of a synthetic line instead of whipping it; wrap it very tightly with a piece of masking tape and cut in the middle of the tape with a very sharp blade. 
Slice it don't squish it.
If you have a hot knife, pass it over the end of line (both ends if you are cutting from a spool) lightly, a number of times. 
The objective is to melt it, not burn it. 
Let it cool. 
Then remove the tape taking care to not pull any individual strands and lightly run your hot knife around the sharp edge, making sure all strands are secure.

If you don't have a hot knife, the same handsome results can be achieved with a flame if you have enough patience and a very light wind. 

Important: wet you finger thouroughly before touching molten plastic.


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I've found the "flameless" wind-proof lighters work much better than the flame ones for what Knothead is suggesting. 

Using short section of PVC pipe over the bottom of turnbuckle toggles on the shrouds can often prevent the genoa sheets from getting caught in the toggles. The short sections don't really trap water against the toggles or chainplates, so the risk of corrosion is pretty minimal.


----------



## eryka (Mar 16, 2006)

*dinghy on foredeck (the lazy way)*

Well, maybe someday we'll have a shiny steel arch, with solar panels and a couple of barbeque grills (winking at CD here) and davits. Until then the dinghy lives on the foredeck during passages, but you won't find us cranking it up at the mast. How to use the windlass:

(1) Tie a snatch block to the end of a spare fwd halyard (we use the spin. halyard)

(2) Bring dinghy alongside. Tie a line from the dinghy in the water, up through the snatch block, and down to the windlass.

(3) Take on the halyard until the block is suspended about 8 feet above the foredeck, and cleat off.

(4) Step on (or press) the "up" button on your windlass. Because the block is suspended over the center of the deck, the dinghy will align neatly in place when you lower it.

(5) Smile graciously because other people in the anchorage will be watching you - just like we watched the older couple in the anchorage in Maine (thanx, whoever you were) from whom we copied this trick.


----------



## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

Here's one that makes sense once you think about it:

If you've got dorade vents with two in front and two in back, when the boat is unattended (or just closed up) turn the back two to face aft. That way the breeze comes in one set and out the other.

With them all set in the same direction, very little air flow results and mildew will _gitcha_.


----------



## TrueBlue (Oct 11, 2004)

On that same theme, it makes sense with just two adjacent dorades, to have them facing opposite directions - but, parallel with prevailing winds.


----------



## T37SOLARE (Feb 1, 2008)

This is a great thread, so to revive it I'll add this for un-winterizing your fresh water system:

Last year it seemed like I still had traces of antifreeze in the fresh water system until August, so this is what I did yesterday to make sure it was fully purged.

Get a barbed female garden hose fitting that fits your freshwater plumbing tubing (Mine is 5/8")










Remove the tubing from the output side of your freshwater pump, and insert the garden fitting.

Put a shutoff valve on the end of your garden hose










Connect the hose to the fitting you put on the supply line in the boat.

Open all faucets, and slowly open the valve to the desired flow and let it run until all traces of antifreeze have been flushed out. I ran it for 30-45 minutes.

This eliminated allot of wear & tear on the fresh water pump, and ensured that the system was clean.

For the water tanks, I disconnected the supply line in the bilge, and filled and flushed the tanks several times.


----------



## dongreerps (May 14, 2007)

*dirty eyeglasses*

When your glasses get dirty, or fouled up with dried on salt spray, to clean them, first spray with spray was (Lemon Pledge), and then polish them as usual. Gets all the crud right off. Also the wax fills in all the microscopic scratches in the lenses, so the lenses are restored to their original curvature!


----------



## dongreerps (May 14, 2007)

*holes in tennis balls*

The suggestion on use of tennis balls is clever. In order to drill the hole in the tennis ball, drill a hole 3/4 the size of the tennis ball in a block of scrap wood. Put the tennis ball in the hole, and then drill the hole in the ball.


----------



## svstrider (Jan 4, 2007)

*Other uses for clothes pegs*

If I am trailing a fishing line or anything for that matter e.g. the wife, I put a plastic clothes peg (red is best) on the engine throttle lever to remind me that something needs to be done before starting the engine - like retrieve the fishing line or the wife. Well definitely the fishing line.


----------



## svstrider (Jan 4, 2007)

*Remove engine key before doing prop work*

I remove the engine key/s (I own a cat) if I am going over the side to work in the water. Just in case someone has a brain snap and decides to start up the donks. Very important strategy if there are kids or drunks on board. I put the keys in the beer fridge to remind ME to have a cleansing ale when I return from underwater maintenance in exotic locations.

I DO trust the wife but if I know the keys are not inserted, I don't have nagging scarey thoughts about being made into chopped liver. I have enough to worry about with sharks and salt water crocodiles as it is.


----------



## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

I have a RIB as a dinghy, and store it on davits. Since you don't want the boat to fill with rain water and rip said davits from the hull one normally pulls the drain plug on the dinghy after raising it. After more than one time of lowering the dinghy without first re-installing the plug (makes for a little fun doing a quick rehoist) I started thinking.
After I took some aspirin to clear up the headache that caused I took a piece of sting and tied the plug to the cleat on the davits, on the side the engine/plug goes.I can't uncleat the line and lower the dinghy without untying the plug which is a wonderful reminder. Now I can't loose the plug, or the dinghy


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Chuckles-

I hear thinking is hazardous to your health...wears out the brain cells.


----------



## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Everything other than Rum is hazardous to my health.


----------



## MIKEMCKEE (Oct 13, 2001)

Every one who has a chart plotter and also has the program on their computer, try this. Instead of having both the chart plotter and a over sized chart in the cockpit, use your computer to print only routes you plan to take on 8x10 paper prior to going out. That way you can see at a glance your rount without messing with the scale on the plotter all the time and it gives you a quick and dirty look at where your planning to go, and like a book to can flip the pages and go from one route to the next one. Hope this is usefull.

Chief,
s/v Blue Bayou


----------



## JiffyLube (Jan 25, 2008)

sailingdog said:


> Chuckles-
> 
> I hear thinking is hazardous to your health...wears out the brain cells.


LOL.......


----------



## vsailor (Jun 5, 2007)

I hang my engine key on the water intake seacock, so every time I grab the key I open the intake and close it when replacing the key


----------



## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

Let's see if this will revive this thread again: When I have a sea nettle or fish stuck in an intake thru-hull (Air conditioning, refrigeration or head pump) I rigged a garden hose connection with a hose barb.

I disconnect the affected line at a convenient point, screw the garden hose to hose/barb, then plug in the barb and secure it with a hose clamp. 

Then I open the seacock and go turn on the water to the garden hose. Sometimes it only takes a moment, sometimes it takes a few minutes, but suddenly I hear a phlooshhh sound (I may not have spelled that correctly) and out comes the fish or sea nettle. 

Close the seacock, reconnect original hoses and you're off and running. 

(Of course, I could put a strainer over the thru-hull outside the hull, but I never seem to remember to do that when the boat is pulled.)


----------



## philsboat (Oct 16, 2006)

When motoring into large seas that are on the nose follow the trail of foam as it is usually the easiest path to follow with the lowest wave heights.I know this works in fresh water,not sure about salt water.
Watch for weeds and debris as this will be in the same area.
I spent an hour motoring 1 mile following the foamy trail and passed a similar sized boat motoring at full speed which was hardly moving.
Phil


----------



## jrd22 (Nov 14, 2000)

If you use plastic totes for storing things like we do, label all sides and the top of the tote so you can see what's in it no matter which way it was put back in the locker.

Carry more tools and spare parts than any sane person would think necessary.

John


----------



## Boasun (Feb 10, 2007)

If you are handy; Make a can crusher that is storable. That crusher will help reduce the volume of your trash by crushing those empty cans and empty plastic bottles to a much much smaller size. Stow each in their own trash bag if you can.
Oh! Put one of your younger crew members in charge of it.

OR a large cutting board for this one use. Place on deck and stomp the cans to a thin sheet of metal.
the board will protect your fiberglass/teck deck from deep scratches and gouges from the cans.


----------



## Crewm8 (Feb 18, 2008)

Although my sailing skills are limited, here are a couple tricks i've learned working on boats.

Prevent unwanted growth on your propeller by wrapping it in a plastic bag when you dock. Just remember to remove it before you go.

To fetch a halyard that has gone up the mast:

Take a spare halyard and attach another line to the end of it.

Once that's secure, go down about 6-10 feet and make a decent size slip knot, about the size of a soccer ball.

With the spare halyard in one hand and the rope with the slip knot in the other you can now move the slip knot up and down until you place the shackle from your missing halyard through the loop. Pull both ends and like magic, you have your halyard back.


----------



## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

*Paddle Wheel & Cold Starts...*


Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) on the speed gage paddle wheel to keep the growth off. I have only had to pull the paddle wheel once this season to re-lube
If the old diesel is hard to start, pull the fuel lever to stop diesel from entering the the engine, turn the engine over for a few seconds but not more than 10/15 seconds. Push in the fuel lever and she starts right up. The friction warms the cylinder walls without spilling in cold fuel . I usually only need to do this when its below 50 degrees. This method actually puts less wear & tear on my starter!!!


----------



## Omatako (Sep 14, 2003)

Boasun said:


> That crusher will help reduce the volume of your trash by crushing those empty cans and empty plastic bottles to a much much smaller size. Stow each in their own trash bag if you can.


That must use an awful lot of trash bags !!  Just kidding, know what you mean.

If we're on the boat more than 24 hours, we wash our trash thoroughly before it goes into the bag. It's nicer to wash food off wrappers and containers when the food is fresh and even at the end of a three-week voyage, our trash bags don't have any unpleasant odours. Given that they are stowed in the lazarette, that's quite important. 

Andre


----------



## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

*Dock Duck Dung*

Here's one many of you may already know, but for those who don't:

Ducks and other foul fowl like to spend their nights on the dock and poop the night away leaving unsanitary, unsightly and slippery slop for you to step in.

To stop the problem, tie string (or monofilament) between the pilings six or eight inches from the surface. The birds don't seem to like to take off or land with it there and avoid the area. Of course, don't put it in across the finger pier.


----------



## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

We generally don't have that problem, as we have a family of swans living at our marina, and they tend to keep the other waterfowl away. They generally don't get up on the piers either.


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

This was simply too much of a time saver not to share it with you.

1. Put both lids of the head up and add 1/8 cup of pet shampoo to the water in the bowl.

2. Pick up the cat and soothe him while you carry him towards the head.

3. In one smooth movement, put the cat in the head and close the lid. 
You may need to stand on the lid.

4. The cat will self agitate and make ample suds. 
Never mind the noises that come from the head, the cat is actually enjoying this.

5. Pump the head fast for a full minute. This provides a 'power-wash' and rinse'.

6. Have someone open the companionway hatch. 
Be sure that there are no people between the head and the main companionway.

7. Stand behind the head as far as you can, and quickly lift the lid.

8. The cat will rocket out of the head, streak through the main salon, 
And run outside where he will dry himself off.

9. Both the head and the cat will be sparkling clean.











*
Sincerely,**The Dog*









​


----------



## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

Good one Knotty! You forgot to mention that this should only be dne with a Lavac!


----------



## Giulietta (Nov 14, 2006)

That is probably one of the funiest things I have ever read here....

beats some of the stuff written on the Boat design thread by miles!!!

Good one Knotty


----------



## knothead (Apr 9, 2003)

Just bumping a good thread.


----------



## bubb2 (Nov 9, 2002)

Classic Knotty, A real laugh out loud!!!


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

Hi Everyone,

I'm resurrecting the thread because I came up with two great tips while stripping the bottom to bare glass. It's an ugly, nasty job that I've been putting off since we bought the boat 5 yars ago.

Tip1: To remove many years of accumulated paint, use a 3/4" wood chisel. Knock off the corners to keep from gouging the gel coat. Sharpen about every 20 minutes using a diamond hand sharpener available at the local big box home store. You can tell when the chisel is dull when it skips across your fingernail instead of gripping it. Two of us removed all the old paint from a 38' hull in 8 1/2 hours.

Tip2: To spread epoxy fairing, you can use a stiff piece of carbard from a box as a makeshift putty knife. In fact, I prefer the cardboard because it's more flexible than the steel putty knife and adapts better to the hull's curves. The cardboard can be cut to any width as needed.

Bonus Tip for Hull Waxing: If you have one of those cheapo buffers that just vibrate, try this. Use the cheapo to spread the cleaner/wax and then buy a variable speed circular polisher (looks like an angle grinder) and a 3M wool pad. Harbor Freight has the polisher for about $33 and the pad is about another $34. The results are awesome! It's what my yard uses and I just bought the parts for my own rig.


----------



## jjablonowski (Aug 13, 2007)

Go to your local Staples or Office Depot and color-photocopy the charts you most often use. 

Make whatever notations you want on them--I often connect buoys with red and green markers to sketch in channels--and have the store laminate two sheets back-to-back. Makes a convenient hand-out to guest-spotters who might not be accustomed to reading nautical charts.


----------



## imagine2frolic (Aug 7, 2008)

This is why I like to see old threads pop up. Sometimes there is some great information in them. This one is a classic, and I took a couple of notes....thanks.....i2f


----------



## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

Finally, a good use for a cat in addition to target practice!


----------



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

In general a good idea, but without any kind of sorting it, who is going through hundreds of hints, if he/she is looking for something?


----------



## imagine2frolic (Aug 7, 2008)

I would guess use the search tool, or google for something in particular. I enjoy reading many threads from the beginning to end even if they are old. We all get through life differently........i2f


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

Update on the polishing tip that I posted last week. Works GREAT. It's the same setup and I use the same cleaner/wax (3M Cleaner and Wax) that the yard uses. I was able to do half the starboard side (about 19' - 25% of the boat) in about an 1.25 hours. It looks like it just came out of the mold. Put a little of the wax/cleaner on the cheapo vibrator buffer and spread it around, cleaning the hull. Then switch to the polisher to buff/polish and remove the wax. I think that the yard uses too much wax and it gums up their polisher pad from what I can see.


----------



## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

Two new tips:

1. Use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the knotmeter impeller to keep off growth. I installed my knotmeter in June and slathered it with Vaseline. Reapplied in August. Pulled the boat yesterday and *no* growth at all! I read about this tip somewhere (maybe this thread?). Works great.

2. On the recommendation of my yard owner, painted my prop with 2 coats Interlux Primocon prior to bottom painting. It isolated the bronze prop from the bottom paint and prevented the copper in the paint from acting as a zinc. Pulled the boat yesterday and there was only one barnacle. In the past, applying bottom paint directly to the prop was worthless and had to clean it 2-3 times a season (Chesapeake Bay, May- Nov).


----------



## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

I thought I'd resurrect this thread.. it may be useful to more recent members and good for a re-read.

A couple of things to share:

One of my pet peeves is the dirt that collects under lines running on deck, spinn poles stored on deck, etc.. the dirt becomes very difficult to remove, almost seeming ingrained into the deck. I usually find ways to tension lines or store them in such a way that they do not rest on the surface..

With the spinnaker pole, this issue is compounded when the bridles and possibly trip lines add to the dirt 'pattern' on deck. We've hit upon a solution for this one that is working well.

We also store our halyards clipped to the perforated toerail to avoid the wind chimes of halyard slap whether moored or aboard in the night. What we've taken to doing is, when at the marina, sliding the spinnaker pole between the taut halyards and the stanchions - the pole is held well off the deck, the bridles can be wrapped around the pole and so they too are not a problem. This also facilitates scrubbing the deck without having the move the pole from it's chocks. Of course under way and while cruising the pole is chocked as normal...

Like so
:









Another trick I stumbled upon was a way to check zincs without resorting to a haulout or diver. I always keep a mechanic's mirror on board, very handy. This time of year the water in our marina is quite clear. I found I was able to clearly see the zincs' conditions while leaning over the edge of the dock, putting the mirror in the water and adjusting the angle for a good view of the shaft and prop zincs. Even with a small 2"x3" mirror it's quite clear. I figure if I can't see enough to know they're still there it's time to haul and change them.


----------



## Dfok (Apr 11, 2010)

*great thread - some good info here*

Thanks for resurrecting this, I missed it until now. 
My tip - I use my camera phone as a big part of my boat notebook. When ideas strike, parts or supplies are needed I snap a quick picture as a reminder. Shooting parts with serial numbers or model numbers makes life easier when ordering, having a snapshot of a problem gives me time to figure out solutions while off the boat.
An extension of this is using evernote (Remember Everything | Evernote Corporation)(not affiliated, I just use it cause it works well) as a repository for all my photos, notes, manuals, receipts and other boat stuff. WIth my phone, Ipad or computer I can call all this stuff up easily. It is a great time saver.


----------



## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Here's a picture of the pole storage idea posted above.. got it this past weekend..


----------



## Minnewaska (Feb 21, 2010)

Faster said:


> Here's a picture of the pole storage idea posted above.. got it this past weekend.......


Cool idea. A couple of velcro wraps around the pole and stanchion would make me more comfortable underway. Spin poles are expensive.

edit: Just noticed this wasn't your underway plan. Cooler.


----------

