# tiller pilots: simrad or raymarine????



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

Been researching simrad tp20 or 32 and Raymarine st2000+ after many hours Im still quite unsure which is most likely to perform well let alone at all.
If You Have used a tiller pilot please share your experience..
As background my 25' boat displaces 6000lbs with basic gear and water. It has a balanced spade rudder which can be comfortably handled with a few fingers to weather.
Are these things really such a crap shoot or does the i ternet favor the horror stories?
Your experience appreciated



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


----------



## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

Ray Marine bought out Autohelm. When I bought an Autohelm in the early 90s, I plugged it in and it worked, flawlessly till this spring.
So I replaced it with a Ramarine st1000. It wandered far more than the autohelm. The programing required was complex and the instruction manual for programing it was largely incomprehensible. There would be one line, then `Go to page 61, where there would be one more line, then `Go to page 51, etc etc.
The wandering is not something I couldnt live with but far more than`it should.
It doesn`t lock in, as I am told the tillermaster does, which makes the tiller master useless on a steel boat.


----------



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

Brent Swain said:


> Ray Marine bought out Autohelm. When I bought an Autohelm in the early 90s, I plugged it in and it worked, flawlessly till this spring.
> So I replaced it with a Ramarine st1000. It wandered far more than the autohelm. The programing required was complex and the instruction manual for programing it was largely incomprehensible. There would be one line, then `Go to page 61, where there would be one more line, then `Go to page 51, etc etc.
> The wandering is not something I couldnt live with but far more than`it should.
> It doesn`t lock in, as I am told the tillermaster does, which makes the tiller master useless on a steel boat.


Hi Brent. I downloaded the Raymarine manual to get some sense of what they have in adjustments. Should keep keep a person busy for several weekends experimenting...
Thanks for your input

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


----------



## gbgreen59 (Aug 20, 2013)

The Simrad tiller pilot was discussed quite a bit in a thread about a year ago. I sure don't remember the title. But a guy Christian.Hess had many experiences to discuss, and most was good. On the other hand, he said that he used one a long time ago. So, current models may be different. You might try a search to see what you turn up.


----------



## Markwesti (Jan 1, 2013)

I had a Navico , never did work and then they got bought by Simrad and they would not work on it . Before that I a Autohelm that worked perfect , but we sold that boat . Our present boat is a bit hefty for 28' LOD ,we use the Raymarine st2000 . We don't ask too much from it and it works fine . For your boat I think the st 1000 would be OK , unless you really push it .


----------



## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

I had a ST1000+ on my Capri 25, 3500lbs... spade rudder... on my Boat last year (used it for 2 seasons)...

I have a Simrad TP22 on my S2 7.9 4700lbs, transom mount rudder on my boat now, just this season.

Both are overkill for the size boat I had. 6000lbs I'd opt for the 2000+ from Raymarine, but I feel the TP22 form Simrad would be fine (doesn't break a sweat on my boat)... so basically it sounds like you have the right size... I'd rather the TP be slightly overkill than right at its limit anyway... 6000lbs should be no problem if it's a light tiller, on the ST2000+ and the TP22.

The S2 is a much heavier tiller than the Capri, its like a barn door hung off the transom, which is why I opted for bigger.

I feel if you aren't willing to do the basic calibration for tiller pilot, you are wasting your time. Also, I've personally had to fix the fluxgate compass on my ST1000+, its cool because it's easy to find Raymarine parts (on Ebay).. by contrast when I broke my TP22 (yep, less than 1 season, I broke my TP22, by me falling on it), I couldn't find basic parts on Ebay. That's bothersome.

OK, so on my ST1000+ I broke the fluxgate compass, by essentially setting the unit down to hard over and over again... I used to keep it on my cockpit seat, and would disconnect and let it swing aft against the combing. This 90 degree turn was usually when I had a handful, like when the boat just got a +10knt gust, and the boat was heeling like mad.. so you can bet the TP swung with a bang a few times... SO I couldnt' really blame Raymarine for it. The part that broke was a $1 plastic piece that creates the gimbal for the fluxgate compass... can you buy JUST that.. NO, so $95 for the fluxgate and gimbal (ugh). If I had a 3D scanner I'd have printed the damned part! Some more about the ST1000+, is that it'll do seatalk, and integrate will all raymarine stuff via seatalk (no question the 2000+ will as well). Calibration takes a couple minutes (I don't recall the procedure, which means it must not have been hard to do). I didn't have integrated electronics with raymarine for that boat, but I have no doubt it'd talk to raymarine stuff fine. That means you'll want a seatalk to NMEA 2000 converter if you have mixed brand electronics.

Ok, so my TP 22... the simrad TP10 is equivalent to the ST1000+ (in size, but it doesn't do simnet, or NMEA), but the TP22 is the same as the ST2000+ in size, and does both. I went UP in size because A) I knew I had a heavier boat, B) I knew I was going to have simrad instruments, and C) because I knew the barndoor rudder on the S2 would benefit from the stronger throw. So far the TP22 has never strained. The interface for the TP22, has 3 connections... POWER (for dedicated power), Simnet (which it does NOT derive power from), and NMEA 0183. The reason no NMEA 2000, is becuase SIMNET is basically already NMEA 2000 (they made a cable adapter, but you can splice a NMEA 2000 end right on the SIMNET cable, at least I can't see any reason why you can't, others can confirm this)... OK I like how simplistic simnet is, so I plugged it in to my IS20 Combi WIND, and was able to get it to talk to the TP22, without really having to configure a thing (trick is to have them all connected first before you first power on, otherwise you have to ADD the device in, not a huge procedure, but an extra step). The next thing was calibrate the TP22, its basically press starboard/port, and then tap TACK... do this while motoring in a large clockwise circle... you should be doing like 3-5 knots... it'll tell you if you are turning too slow, or fast by blinking green or red... Anyway once you make slightly MORE than a 360 degree turn... it'll usually be calibrated (positive beeps, otherwise one long beep, meaning try again). I only had it fail once and it was when I was waked by a motorboat. while doing it. After that it has done quite well. I've had to TP22s in 4 months (long story), so I've had to recalibrate it... which is why I had to recalibrate it.

OK... HOW do the 2 compare? I'd say pretty evenly honestly. I personally like the TP22 better slightly, but that may be more about the power it has (again I'm comparing 2 different sizes so that's not likely fair). The interfaces are drop dead simple on both (as it should be)... The steer to wind on the TP22 is pretty good (can't say for the ST1000+ as I didn't have those functions in instruments), but almost useless on our mountain lake, as wind shifts send it reeling pretty quickly. NOt because it doesn't do it, it does, but it sets off alarms on my IS20... which I've not turned off yet. But it works, and tracks like mad even with 90 degree shifts, but if you get a 90 degree shift it's really a hole, and you'd rather it blindly steer through it, cause it's coming back anyway.

I've felt comfortable slapping the TP22 on even while I'm heeling at 30 degrees right on the edge of 30 degrees off wind, so that I can go below and use the head. I've only once had it (while steering a course not steering to wind) have me round up... but the reason was winds shifted 15 degrees as a header, throwing the bow over.

Obviously I am not much help when it comes to sea state, as I'm not in open water. I've been waked more than my share of times, both under sail with TP in control, or more commonly with me buttoning up the boat while the boat was motoring back to the marina. It handles it quite well, and reacts quite quickly. I wouldn't want to have a boat next to me (less than 50 feet) while it happens, as the boat might correct back and forth some... yes I've had the TP on while motoring less than 50 feet next to another boat (I was taking pictures - again another long story).

I'm going to dig and see if I can find a few videos with the (each) of the TPs under control. I don't think I have many with decent levels of wind, because I usually like driving in those conditions, but I'll see. I am sure I have several with 8-12knot winds. I doubt I have any with white caps. I'll update THIS post if I can get them up on u-tube.

If you have specific questions I'll try to answer what I can. Again, I can't vouch for how they'd do in following seas (I'm on a puddle)... but I CAN tell you that they correct the most downwind. It takes them a while to adjust to the state while downwind. The TP22 seems to correct instantly downwind when you turn it on.. adjusting 5 degrees or so immediately the wrong way. This is unnerving under spinnaker, because if it's blowing hard enough, its a self-perpetuating rounding if you aren't careful. Best to be ready to trim spinnaker when you first turn it on... but it recovers quickly and after that its fine.

This is the TP22 in light air (again sorry no heavier air)... 





I'll endeavor to get a short video with my new phone (better HD video) hopefully this weekend upwind.

This is the ST1000+ in slightly heavier air than above, on a close reach (better idea how it handles). 





Others here could tell you more, but as I understand it, you can add a "rate compass" and highly improve the speed at which the TP reacts.


----------



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

SHNOOL said:


> I had a ST1000+ on my Capri 25, 3500lbs... spade rudder... on my Boat last year (used it for 2 seasons)...
> 
> I have a Simrad TP22 on my S2 7.9 4700lbs, transom mount rudder on my boat now, just this season.
> 
> ...


Great Shnool! 
Thanks for the nitty gritty that helps alot. Do you like having the read out screen on the st1000 or is it not really missed on the tp22?thanks again for the good detail on handling

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


----------



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

Markwesti said:


> I had a Navico , never did work and then they got bought by Simrad and they would not work on it . Before that I a Autohelm that worked perfect , but we sold that boat . Our present boat is a bit hefty for 28' LOD ,we use the Raymarine st2000 . We don't ask too much from it and it works fine . For your boat I think the st 1000 would be OK , unless you really push it .


Hi Mark
Yeah i had toyed with trusting the st1000+ capacity but after reading some other experiences thought it better to err up instead of down ...do you have a cover for yours?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


----------



## okawbow (Feb 15, 2007)

I bought a Simrad TP 10 in 2008. I used it in about 5000 miles of cruising in a Bristol 24 sloop, and then a Cheoy Lee 31 ketch, over the next 4 years. I always kept a waterproof cover on it, and it always worked great as long as I kept the boats reasonably balanced. It was working fine when I sold the boat. 

Even on the 12,000 lb Cheoy Lee, it had enough power to quickly keep the boat on course. I prefer simple devices, and don't see the need for a tiller pilot with more features for my use.


----------



## Markwesti (Jan 1, 2013)

Hi Oysterman , we do not have a cover for our AP . But that's not a bad idea . Also when I say we don't ask to much from it I mean we really only use it for motor sailing or light sailing beer break . When I single hand I use it to head up so I can hoist sails . I have never tried to tack with it ,I don't think it has enough travel but now you have me thinking , maybe I will try that .


----------



## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

I had no cover for the ST1000+ or the TP22... both were out in rain frequently.

Since I've taken both apart, I'd argue the TP22 is more "weatherproof." 

I don't miss the readout on the ST1000+ because I found that it frequently didn't have the proper heading anyway (that could have been how I mounted it, you know not perfectly perpendicular or something)... But I have no need to steer to a compass heading either (inland lake)... Since I have the integrated electronics, errors, alarms, and wind shifts broadcast on simnet, and display on my IS20 combi (speed/depth/temp).. the combi displays shifts, alarms, and errors until you clear them...

I was worried that I'd miss the display as well... I've not really found WHY I thought that now.

By the way I've tried to use the "tack" functions, and have never found them useful. Might be me, but I'd rather control the turn based upon wind speeds, and sea state.


----------



## MikeOReilly (Apr 12, 2010)

We have the largest version of the Raymarine tiller pilot: the SPX-5 GP model. It was (and maybe still is) the largest above-deck tiller pilot out there. It's still undersized for our boat, but we only use it in benign conditions, which is mostly when we are motoring. 

After a few seasons of gentle use (which is only how we use it), the TP has done fine. Steers well, responds well, and doesn't take a lot of power, although once again we're not asking a lot from it.


----------



## Tanski (May 28, 2015)

Two year old Simrad tp-22 on my boat, simple, no problems yet, easy install.
Doesn't get that much use, mostly when hoisting sails and the last few hundred yards motoring before the marina when I get the dock lines and fenders set up on the solo days.
Mine isn't networked, don't need it for my use. Built in compass does a good enough job for a few minutes at a time.
I did score the discontinued remote with mine. That I do find very handy.


----------



## captainmurph (Feb 12, 2009)

I've had three different ST2000+ TP on my Catalina 25, C&C24 and CAl 30. All have worked well with no problems.

I have never used a cover, but have designed one for a friend and will make myself one before I venture out on the Loop this fall. I sell them in my Ebay store as well: Raymarine ST1000 or ST2000 Tiller Pilot Waterproof Case Choose Sunbrella Color | eBay

The ST's are getting harder to find since Raymarine decided to stop production and favor the "new" style. I don't have any experience with them.

Murph


----------



## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

I asked a lot of people about Simrad vs. Raymarine above deck tiller pilots.
Both have experienced their share of failures.
Neither have been highly regarded in customer service from their parent companies.

It really seemed like six in one hand, or a half-dozen in the other.

Although your boat is light, I advise buying the ST2000 *if* you go Raymarine. The 2000 uses a different, more robust drive mechanism, a recirculating ball drive, vs. the worm gear drive of the 1000 model. It will simply last longer.

The "wandering" that Brent complains about, can be minimized by proper tuning of the gain and dampening settings. Raymarine states that the TP does not drive well, deep downwind, but with proper tuning, I've got mine holding a steady course DDW, while gybing my symmetric spinnaker. I'm sure that this will vary with the sailing characteristics of different boats.

As others may have mentioned, a spray-proof covering for the TP can't but help. I also try to shield mine from direct summer heat from the sun. I store it indoors, in the winter as per Raymarine's instructions.

Oh- There is a fellow in Australia who sells a remote control FOB for the Ray tiller pilots. Clip it to your PFD, and you can make course changes or initiate and auto-tack, while on the bow, changing headsails. I'm not aware of such an accessory for Simrad.

Good luck.


----------



## Northeric (May 1, 2014)

FWIW I inherited my ST2000 when I bought my Ericson 27 and it has good days and bad days. Sometimes it can't hold a course for more than a few minutes, other times you can set it and forget it. I remember reading that someone thought that the power plug integrity was a factor. On my unit the plug uses a fine threaded plastic ring nut to lock the unit to the power supply. Over time those threads get degraded and stripped. I'm not an engineer but I think a coarse thread with an o-ring would have been a better design. Can't comment on the Simrad.


----------



## Plumbean (Dec 17, 2009)

I have a TP10 on a 13,000 pound sloop with a skeg hung rudder. Never been a problem power wise, although my use is pretty light. No cover. Came with the boat in 2008 and still working fine.


----------



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

Tanski said:


> Two year old Simrad tp-22 on my boat, simple, no problems yet, easy install.
> Doesn't get that much use, mostly when hoisting sails and the last few hundred yards motoring before the marina when I get the dock lines and fenders set up on the solo days.
> Mine isn't networked, don't need it for my use. Built in compass does a good enough job for a few minutes at a time.
> I did score the discontinued remote with mine. That I do find very handy.


Thanks Tanski I found off market remotes for both tp22 and 2000+ on ebay and someone is now making a good colored cover for as well. It does seem the Simrad is consistently less vulnerable to water. Im unlikely to have everything networked and will like having for hauling sail, reefing etc
How are these units downwind?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


----------



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

Thanks all for detailed usefull responses when I get my unit I will post on this thread as well may it help the next victim 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tanski (May 28, 2015)

I have never used it running dead downwind. Kind of scares me! If I had it networked with a nmea2000 windex might be different, could use steer to wind mode.


----------



## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Thought I'd post a quick video I took yesterday while sailing showing the TP22 on a reach... winds were 10-18 knts.. yep we're an inland lake, and that rough water was JUST from powerboats, lovely no?

Likely by the time you view this video, Youtube will have removed my sound, as my radio was playing (you know cause I'm stealing copyrighted music)... but I cut the video off because SHOCK, someone was "drifting" in the middle of the lake (not broken down, but this is what I call ******* anchoring, it's too much of a bother to pull the anchor out, so you motor to the middle of the lake, and turn the motor off - yeah they scatter on the weekends like land mines)... Of course these geniuses can't figure out when it's windier, they are really sailing based upon their freeboard, but hey, nobody had to touch slimy anchorline right?

Anyway, hope the video helps.


----------



## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

as always good stuff shnool!

my advice is get a tiller pilot suited to your use...if your use is light day sailing and motoring back home while sipping some cocoa you dont need a size up, in fact you are fine using a size DOWN

I would love one just for that on my light boat...

now if you want to solo race and need 3 autopilots to go on a transpac then you will need at least a size up, weather proofing and much testing of sail plans that balance out in different configurations

any tiller pilot will do its job

ITS UP TO THE SAILOR to make it easy for it to work and that means BALANCING YOUR BOAT

cheers

ps. we cruised 10k miles on an old wooden boat using a simrad tp22 or older version of that, it was exposed ALL the time all we did was cover it from direct sunlight and or heavy rain however we did not WRAP it...that is worse as you create heat and condensation INSIDE the unit...and it will fry

peace


----------



## jimkyle99 (Mar 20, 2013)

For giggles try calling customer support for each and see if there is a difference.


----------



## vega1860 (Dec 18, 2006)

Late to the thread but I thought I would add my 2 cents worth:

Our first Raymarine ST2000+ experienced an electronic failure on the third day of our first voyage from Hawaii, prompting us to learn how to make the boat sail herself without it. When we got to Port Townsend, we sent the tiller pilot back to Raymarine. They told us the failure was caused by "Water damage" and refused to cover it under warranty.

The repaired unit worked fine motoring around Puget sound and we used it some sailing down the Pacific Coast to San Francisco but it failed again on the way back to Hawaii, this time with a loud crunching noise followed by the rod flopping around loose. We had it repaired again. Since Laura was working for West Marine, we were able to buy a second unit at a substantial discount. After that we kept two on board.

When using the unit under sail, we were careful to keep the sails trimmed for minimum weather helm and avoided using it while running with following seas. Nevertheless, the third failure occurred on the way North to Alaska. While changing from tiller pilot to manual steering, I lifted the unit off the tiller but dropped it about four inches when it slipped out of my hand Laura was recording at the time so the incident appears in one of our videos. It sounded a tone and the display started flashing. It never worked again and we did not bother to send it back to the factory.

We have been using the second unit motoring around SE Alaska in flat calm water for three years without any problems.


----------



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

vega1860 said:


> Late to the thread but I thought I would add my 2 cents worth:
> 
> Our first Raymarine ST2000+ experienced an electronic failure on the third day of our first voyage from Hawaii, prompting us to learn how to make the boat sail herself without it. When we got to Port Townsend, we sent the tiller pilot back to Raymarine. They told us the failure was caused by "Water damage" and refused to cover it under warranty.
> 
> ...


Thank you for sharing the enjoyable video, Vega...that is the sort of thing i kept hearing which led me to posting this. You drop was not much of a bang by boating standards.. sorry for your luck. Anyway it seems a crapshoot as some have had good experiences and others not. Guess Ill just go for it and be careful with adjustments and general care. Thanks for the feedback

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


----------



## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Like I said, the main issue I see with the ST1000+ and 2000+ is the internal fluxgate compass... the good news is you can use a rigid external RATE compass ($500 more)... the internal compass is a fragile piece of junk... sadly its NOT the compass, but the plastic gimbal it sits in. If they made it out of brass, it'd go light years towards making the unit tougher.

Also dipping the controller board in epoxy might go a long way towards waterproofing the thing. I was unimpressed at how little was done to prevent the Raymarine ST1000+ from exposure to the elements. The TP22 is only marginally better (having a seal around the unit, with a heavier gasket, and a tighter fit, but I suspect the buttons will still allow water in at an alarming rate).

I think if you plan on going offshore with this unit, you should seriously consider buying the external rate compass, and locating down below, and forward of the mast, on centerline.


----------



## Ajax_MD (Nov 24, 2009)

Shnool- Is it possible to tie such a compass to an ST series tiller pilot? Or are you advocating a different system, entirely?

A lot of the advice you guys are spouting is *clearly* outlined in the Raymarine user guide:
Balance the sails to reduce loading and energy consumption on the tiller pilot (for example)

I'm not saying that these tiller pilots are wonderful and that the failures are all the user's faults, I'm just saying that if you read the damned instructions, they might last a little longer.
I totally agree that for what we're paying, the units are leaky and fragile and that customer service is sadly lacking.
Ray and Simrad play this game because they know that we don't have many other choices.

The next step up, is the Raymarine Evolution at $1600 on Defender.com. This unit is for up to 13,000lb. boats.
It's rather overkill in price and power for many of us. There really isn't much middle ground.

You pays you money and you takes you chances.


----------



## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

You know Bubblehead... I didnt' look at the Raymarine honestly... I looked at the SIMRAD options... it states in the manual that if you have an external compass source like the external fluxgate compass, or the new improved rate compass, it'll use the external source as the "golden standard" and ignore the internal one. If a person plans on using the TP for any kind of hard work (longer term), I'd strongly urge a person to get the external source. I'll have to look up to see if the Raymarines work the same way, I'd be shocked if they didn't.


----------



## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

Leaving port a few days ago , my new Raymarine was OK at the beginning. Then the course corrections started getting bigger and bigger , until it was throwing the helm form hard over to hard over. So I put it on standby, set my course, and set it on auto again where it did the same thing. Followed the directions and it did nothing. The problem continued. My boat has extremely good directional stability.
WHAT A PIECE OF CRAP!
I'm thinking of getting a refund.
I don't recommend Raymarine to anyone.
What are my other options?


----------



## Jim_W (Jul 27, 2014)

I loved my TP 1000 until yesterday it started making strange noises then something broke inside. Its under warranty and has had very light usage bought it a year ago. I sent it in today I guess I will find out how good the warranty and customer service is. Has anyone else used their warranty repair?? How fast is the turn around??


----------



## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

look for the old autohelm pilots guys if you want a reliable dead simple small tiller pilot...you can find them on ebay all the time

they are the cylindrical type worm gear drives...they look like a typical ram arm on a car back door just bigger...these are dead simple and reliable

the best part is tghe brains are in the control unit which can be mounted inside the boat...you can also add a controller to make adjustments from anywhere in the boat

so you eliminate all this getting wet, sketchy and wandering symptoms these new tiller pilots have when not in the best climate and or situations

another plus is the arm or motor is useable in other ways...you can also hardwire it and just use it as a BRAINLESS autopilot...in other words just an extension of your arms when you go change sails etc...

just letting you know this was done on my dads boat as he was handicapped and used this system on a gimballed fishing chair in order to sail his columbia challenger 24 out of the delta in california

this is not to say you cant do it with any other ram arm or motorised system

simplicity is king when you want GOOD performance on a BUDGET


----------



## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

guys Id jump on this in a heartbeat versus these new ones...just because the old ones are MADE better...

Autohelm 800 Tiller Pilot | eBay

having said that this model is newer than what Im talking about...this is a brain in unit combined...you want the arm and brain separately if you can for maximum weather resistance

cheers

old compass setting one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Autohelm-80...id=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=371402662827#viTabs_0

fix fluxgate and youre good to go


----------



## dennisonberwick (Feb 17, 2006)

I have no experience with Simrad, though I will be buying an auto-pilot from them shortly. 

My experience with Raymarine has been mostly disastrous - both products and service.

E120 chartplotter has worked perfectly for 6 years - no issues
A VHF radio (forget the model, no longer available) was DOA - never worked even when new. A Raymarine technician said that model was junk and advised me to buy another brand. I bought Icom have have been very happy
A SP5X auto-pilot was DOA - It calibrated and went through auto-learn with no problems but then failed to work in Auto. A Raymarine technician gave me a voltage test to do which the computer failed (and this was brand new!) - so the computer had to be mailed from Canada to US at my expense.

Raymarine received the computer on July 1st 2015 (I have post office signature confirmation) but I've heard nothing since then from Raymarine. The company service centre at Nashua seems to be unpenetrable. I've reached messages machines 8 times, I've left detailed messages twice but never received calls back. I've twice emailed through the Raymarine repair contact form but so far have received no reply.

I'd heard before that Raymarine service was poor, but never imagined a $2500 system would not work even when brand new, that a computer would need to be returned to be reset (not at all practical for a cruising boat) and that Raymarine company staff would use answering machines to avoid customers. 

Your experience with Raymarine might be different, if you decide to take the risk, but the quality of service is something to consider when so much electronic equipment has software that only the manufacturer can reset, rather than electro-processors which either work or fail.

Hope this helps. Look forward to hearing what you decide.


----------



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

Well after all Im going for Simrad but before I do im going to poke around a bit re earlier Autohelms with the separate head unit. Thanks all, good sailing!


----------



## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

we must differentiate new from old...any brand

good luck!

youll be happy either way I hope

I cruised with a simrad exposed and never expected a warranty or part from simrad....ever nor would i from raymarine or autohelm

having said that technology today makes us a slave to warranties and guarantees as they are ever so complicated so if anything does go wrong wether its our fault or not the solution is often more complicated and or troublesome than simply living with the problem

thats why I recomend to buy a stash of old tiller pilots that are for lack of a better word disposable good old units...that will last till something common like the compass or motor burns out whatever the case maybe a tiller pilot is a VERY SIMPLE piece of engineering

stay simple

christian

cheers


----------



## oysterman23 (Jul 22, 2011)

christian.hess said:


> we must differentiate new from old...any brand
> 
> good luck!
> 
> ...


Christian..your advice was timely. Yesterday i found an unused Autohelm 800 still wrapped for a good price and installed it this morning. Headed out at 2:30 and put it to work. Very pleased and as you say they are simple. But what a pleasure to have when hauling sail and or just wishing to be a passenger for awhile. It is quiet and holds course nicely. It also is clear balancing makes all the difference and Im glad my boat has a light touch. Truthfully mine will be pretty light duty most of the time but Im already convinced of its value. Thanks again
Oysterman

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


----------



## christian.hess (Sep 18, 2013)

there you have it...those 800 series are pretty good simple units...glad you enjoy it!

as always balance your boat first then set the pilot on...

cheers


----------



## patrickbryant (Nov 28, 2010)

Raymarine tiller pilots need some protection from rain and spray. I cover the switches and LCD window with plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) that I seal at the top and bottom with 3M masking tape (the blue stuff). I considered a fabric casing, but that would partially prevent the tiller pilot from dissipating heat. The vent at the bottom back needs to stay open to prevent moisture retention, so complete immersion will still kill the device. The pushrod, which has a 9 inch throw, isn't completely water tight at its entry into the box and it will convey water into the electronics. Some people have tried using a coating of Vaseline, but that will eventually gum up the inside. So.... what resilient, puncture resistant, water-tight covering could one use to cover a tubular object? Humm... A condom! I seal the condom at the shaft hilt with mastic tape (use unlubricated condoms so the tape will stick). Works great so far! I did have to try a few brands before I found one (Trojan) that would stretch to the 9 inch throw without showing signs of strain. (You should have seen the look on the lady pharmacist's face when I complained that: "These aren't long enough. What do you have that stretches to 9 inches?") 

BTW, when you buy a tiller pilot, take it out of the box at the store, shake it a little, and if you hear something rattling around inside - it's loose solder beads inside that are just waiting to short a circuit board tracing. Raymarine assembly folks need lessons in proper soldering. I rejected three units in a row by this test.


----------



## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

yeah, the Raymarine Tiller Pilots also have plastic holders for the fluxgate compass inside. So if it's rattling, it might just be a busted fuxgate compass.

Not sure about the Simrads, but I now have a "parts spare" so I could find out.


----------



## Crawdaddy282 (Mar 9, 2010)

I too just sent in my simrad tp10 yesterday. I will keep informed of customer service, but so far so good. Although I was told it is $260 flat fee to fix or replace it if they can't fix. No power to unit but I'm sure plugged in correctly and charged batteries.


----------



## Tony (May 18, 2017)

My Simrad TP 10 has decided to give up on the starboard tack, it works single adjustments at a time on the port tack and when it feels like it on starboard, also the tack facility has disappeared altogether. Only just started to misbehave. Any ideas. How to you reset the electronics or settings?

Any help gladly received, I can't seem to get any response from customer service!


----------

