# Typs of mooring chain -- how long does it last?



## Bene505 (Jul 31, 2008)

What is everyone's experience with chain and how long it lasts when used for mooring. Here are some options:

1) Used 19 mm stud link chain, showing a little rust. I found some for $4 or $5 per foot, 6 pounds per foot, 19MM, about 5'' long links. (Is this too expensive?)

2) Galvanized chain (pick one type or all), say 3/4 inch.

3) Stainless steel chain, say 3/4 inch. (If stainless steel lasts long enough, it could be a better thing to use instead of galvanized.)

More details: This is for my 50' Beneteau, 28,000 lbs, on a 3 mile long lake that is not very sheltered from ocean winds, 10 feet deep water, gear must be removed every November.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Don't get stainless steel chain. It does very poorly when deprived of oxygen. That will happen at the bottom end of the chain at a minimum. 

I'd say go with galvanized 3/4" chain, preferably G43.... but that's just me.  

I'd imagine that Maine Sail will talk a bit about moorings...he's got good advice... I'd recommend listening to him.


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## Bene505 (Jul 31, 2008)

Thanks again SD!


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## erps (Aug 2, 2006)

> Don't get stainless steel chain. It does very poorly when deprived of oxygen. That will happen at the bottom end of the chain at a minimum.


I tried a stainless swivel in one of my early moorings and it didn't last as long as the galvanized swivels. Galvanized chain is the opposite of stainless, as it will last a long time in the deep muddy end, but corrode near the surface. Many of the moorings around here use a chain/nylon rope combination. Chain on the bottom for chafe protection followed with an underwater float to hold the chain to rope splice off the bottom and then nylon rope up to the mooring buoy. I would inspect my mooring gear twice a year and my recollection was that I replaced chain and swivels about every other year and I was using 5/8 or 3/4 hardware depending on which boat I was trying to keep from floating away at the time.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Erps-

My understanding is that the galvanized chain doesn't really corrode so much as wear away from the constant friction and movement caused by the buoy/mooring ball rocking in the swell.


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## erps (Aug 2, 2006)

> Erps-
> 
> My understanding is that the galvanized chain doesn't really corrode so much as wear away from the constant friction and movement caused by the buoy/mooring ball rocking in the swell.


Yep, I think that's what starts it. The galvanizing gets knocked off, now you have steel chain in salt water and sunlight. Mix in some stainless steel safety wire (another lesson I learned the hard way) and your big old galvanized chain is reduced to nothing in no time.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

*The basic rules are this...*

#1 Big heavy chain gives good caternary effect and prevents shock loading.

#2 Moorings are usually designed at a 2:1 or 3:1 max scope so this means heavy chain is a must if you want any caternary and protection from shock loading.

#3 Chain wears where the links meet. Anchors are not constant duty but moorings are. Moorings are exposed to wear & link degradation 24/7 365.

#4 The biggest chain, or wire diameter, you can buy will last you the longest.

#5 Galvanized chain adds no real long term benefit as the link wear chews through it rather quickly anyway so self colored chain is fine.

#6 Long link mooing chain is a good option because shackle fit better through it.

#7 You should have a top chain and a bottom chain. the top chain will be lighter than the bottom chain. A good rule of thumb is that the bottom or really heavy chain be 1.5 times max water depth. You will replace the top chain every three to four years depending on your location but bottom chain can last as long as 7-10 if big enough..

Feel free to watch this video and you'll see the types of mooring conditions boats in Maine can deal with in the winter and during Nor' Easters. Most boats up here use the Wayne Hamilton mooring protocol as shown bellow. None of the boats in the video broke free despite a few of them having 15 footers breaking over them. One actually rolled about 80 degrees and popped back up but did not break free.
Please ignore my video skills..

Enjoy...




Why Not to Cut Corners On Your Mooring System (LINK)


Photo Courtesy of Hamilton Marine (LINK)









This is my bottom chain for a 36 footer..


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## J36ZT (May 18, 2008)

I saw Maine Sail's video footage. All I can say is there has got to be a better way to get your decks PRESSURE WASHED! 

If the boats can take that kind of wind and sea-state without pulling loose, the mooring system has got to be sound... 

Maine, you know your stuff! Thanks for the mooring info.

Skipper, J/36 "Zero Tolerance"


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

J36ZT said:


> I saw Maine Sail's video footage. All I can say is there has got to be a better way to get your decks PRESSURE WASHED!
> 
> If the boats can take that kind of wind and sea-state without pulling loose, the mooring system has got to be sound...
> 
> ...


Many folks don't know what a storm in a harbor actually looks like so they "freak" and think I'm a lunatic for using chain that big????? Trust me it's NOT over sized! The bigger the better..

Many of the "mooring systems" I hear described on here from "engine blocks" to a "trash can full of cement" would not even survive our fall high pressure systems let alone a Nor' Easter...


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## TxLnghrn (Apr 22, 2008)

Maine,
First I was glad to see the bit of shrubbery and realize you were on land, I thought at first you were out on your boat.  
Second, did I see birds floating on the sea in that video? You have some crazy birds north of the Mason-Dixon  

Michael


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

TxLnghrn said:


> Maine,
> First I was glad to see the bit of shrubbery and realize you were on land, I thought at first you were out on your boat.
> Second, did I see birds floating on the sea in that video? You have some crazy birds north of the Mason-Dixon
> 
> Michael


Winds were less than 45 knots at that point and the storm was winding down. But the North Atlantic can be nasty when she wants..





Why Not to Cut Corners On Your Mooring System (LINK)


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

maine sail might be crazy but he isn't dumb enough to want to weather out a Nor'easter on his boat if he can avoid it.


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## Hooper (Sep 22, 2008)

*Additional Mooring Tips*

Maine Sail - excellent points. I agree - the heavier the better. 
References like Chapman are a minimum for safe holding power. The more exposed and/or the longer the intervals away from a mooring rig (i.e. boat in RI, home in NH), the heavier the gear.

Heavy gauge steel long link chain will suffice. Better to replace the rode every two years than try and stretch good chain b/c you paid alot for it. I use the spent heavy chain from the sailboat for lighter duty service on my small powerboat in protected waters.

The swivel! Make sure it's in there to prevent chain twist and binding. Check out the photos from this website to see what I mean...
anchordivingservices dot com
Also, inspect with mask and snorkel every so often to see if she's wrapped on the block or mushroom.

Most wear on my rig is along the bend in the catanary where it brushes across the sand. Pulling up the ball and inspecting half the rode does no good. Scrutinize those lower links since they meet the bottom, brushing and abrading away, especially if it's sand. For this reason, I always drop chain to the bottom over the winter to eliminate rub. I tether it to a messenger line and buoy for retrieval in spring. Any mud on the bottom also helps keep chain outside the oxygenated zone.

Hope this helps-


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