# Making the illusion of a Teak & Holly Sole??



## landlockvasailor (Aug 13, 2007)

The 22 footer that I am working on for my grandson needs the cabin sole replaced. Once I cut is out, replacing the fiberglass skin appears to be an option. The other is taking a sheet of marine grade plywood, soak the hull side in expoy and on the sole use a teak stain. For the holly, I thought of using pin stripe tape, then give it a number of cost of poly. Any thoughts on this would be appreciate.
Tom


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## Sabreman (Sep 23, 2006)

I'd use teak/holly plywood. There are lots of suppliers. Here is one:
Marine Plywood by Homestead - Teak

The striping route is a lot of work and the results will be marginal at best IMHO.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

It's likely the solvents poly will eat the pin stripe tape and then it will lift. 

Try and find a source for linoleum that is patterned like teak and holy. I've seen it, but can't remember who made it..


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## landlockvasailor (Aug 13, 2007)

World Panel Products Inc. Serving the Marine Industries of the World has the teak and holly for $268 a sheet and vinyl for $288.00. So I do have that option. You are right on the pin stripe, it would eat it up by the poly, did not think of that.

Well, I have to see if my bride will let me buy one or the other.

Thanks for your all advice.

Tom


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## folkboatjohn (Sep 20, 2007)

This looks like it might be an easy and inexpensive solution

www [DOT] mailordercentral [DOT] com/welcomeaboard/prodinfo.asp?number=555A


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## jgeissinger (Feb 25, 2002)

*Fake teak and holly*

I did exactly what you are thinking about on a 23 ft. boat that had a nearly rectangular floor area. I used mahogany doorskins that I sealed on both sides with sealer and varnish (resin would have been better) and then used quarter inch white pinstriping tape. I the varnished over the whole thing with about 6 or 7 coats of a traditional type varnish (non urethane), which leveled out the surface and protected the tape. The doorskins were flexible enough to take the contour of the sole easily, and the color required no staining and looked very much like teak. I know this sounds mickey mouse, but it looked good, cost very little, and lasted the seven years I had the boat and looked good to the next owner. After all, when I did this I had all of about $2000 invested in this boat and wasn't about to spend money on real teak and holly, which was too thick to work anyway.


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## landlockvasailor (Aug 13, 2007)

ok, then I will rethink !


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## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

Look at this one:

Lonseal Flooring | Lonwood Teak & Holly

It's vinyl - it looks great - I installed it on my boat about 3 years ago - it still looks like new - it will probably look good for 10 or 15 years. It comes with it's own special epoxy adhesive. If you decide to go with the stuff, get in touch with me and I can tell you how I went about it.

When it gets admired and I tell people it's vinyl - they're down feeling it and still don't believe it. It's not cheap - but it's a heckuva lot less than the real stuff and it's about zero maintenance.


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## landlockvasailor (Aug 13, 2007)

thanks, I will keep your offer on my project list

Tom


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

LarryandSusanMacDonald said:


> Look at this one:
> 
> Lonseal Flooring | Lonwood Teak & Holly


Nice endorsement, but these bastards have ignored two e-mails and a phone call from me in Toronto for a sample of their product. NAFTA, my ass.


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Maybe if you quit asking for a 6 foot x 30 foot sample roll they would answer


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## SSBN506 (Apr 18, 2008)

I just finished doing this for my 24.5 foot boat. I cut the new sole out of regular finished plywood. I then sanded and applied 3 cotes water based deck stain called butter rum or something like that. The next step I used black car pinstripes to make the lines. The last step was three cotes of fiberglass resin. It looks great to me and everyone mistakes it for the real thing. cost about $100 to make as i had to buy all the materials. I am going to make two as i have a lot of materials left over.


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## LarryandSusanMacDonald (Apr 3, 2005)

> Nice endorsement, but these bastards have ignored two e-mails and a phone call from me in Toronto for a sample of their product. NAFTA, my ass.


Try:: "Neil Rodden"
[email protected] <[email protected]></[email protected]>


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Valiente-

They sent me samples...  Maybe they don't like canadians.


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## westerly33 (Aug 1, 2007)

Another way to do it is:
Take nice external grade plywood. Put 1.5-2-inch-wide stripes of 3M with whatever narrow gaps on the ply. Cover the gaps with PVC. Take the tape off. Stain the wide stripes with whatever stain you like. Sand the PCV off the ply. Varnish or epoxy and varnish. 

Regards.


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## Valiente (Jun 16, 2006)

LarryandSusanMacDonald said:


> Try:: "Neil Rodden"
> [email protected] <[email protected]></[email protected]>


Thanks for the suggestion. I will.


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## mj603 (Mar 15, 2008)

I have some teak veneer marine ply on my floor. We recently had some duct tape on it tp protect a section of floor. On pulling up the duct tape, the veneer came up with it. While it is fixable, it wont look the same. I wish I had solid timber or maybe synthetic floor.


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## landlockvasailor (Aug 13, 2007)

What do you all think about not pulling up the sole, and install covering (vinyl) marine plywood after using West in the voids of the existing sole.

Tom


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