# Bottom paint: Micron Extra/CSC, Pettit Ultima SR-40/SR-60



## dreuge (Sep 18, 2009)

I am looking to repaint the bottom of my sailboat. It is going on three years since it was done by the previous owner. The paint currently is/was an ablative paint.

I sail in the gulf along the FL panhandle, and I am planning on going with another ablative paint. Barnacles are problem here. So far I have narrowed my choices down to 4 paints. I was originally planing on going with an Interlux, but I recently came across the Pettit Ultima paints which currently have rebate offers ($10-$20/gal off).

I would greatly appreciate any input on the 4 paints listed below. I am leaning towards the SR-80 or the Micron Extra(SR-80 with rebate is $40 less per gallon). For a C&C 29 mk1, I expect I'll need two gallons. Has anyone had good success with the SR-80? I searched the Sailnet forums on SR-80 and found no hits, so I guess it is rather new product.

[1] Pettit Unltima SR-80
[2] Interlux Micron Extra
[3] Pettit Unltima SR-40
[4] Interlux Micron CSC


----------



## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

I've had good luck with Pettit Horizons which is a less expensive paint compared to the Ultima. But I am in the Northeast so cooler water, however barnacle growth is a real issue in our harbor. I'm on a mooring.


----------



## RichH (Jul 10, 2000)

If slime is a local problem ... slime accumulation promotes barnacles attaching to ablatives in severe infestation areas. Then Micron Extra or its Pettit equivalent would be (actually is) my choice. You dont need to paint the entire hull with a slime reduction paint ... many in the Carolinas use the 'slime' formula down to ~3 ft. below the waterline ... and 'anything' below that level.


----------



## paulk (Jun 2, 2000)

We've used Micron CSC for the past dozen years to good effect, though our water in CT may be a bit cooler than yours. With changes to ablative paint regs, we're thinking of looking for something else.


----------



## dreuge (Sep 18, 2009)

I've just looked on the Interlux website, and i do not see a listing for Micro CSC under their "Product Literature" menu. Everywhere else it is now listed with a "*". I found a product description pdf on their website, but the data sheet is an older version of what Interlux is now using. Given the product descriptions provided on vendor sites, I wondered the difference. I now guess that Interlux is discontinuing the CSC.


----------



## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Ive used the Interlux products CSC, Micron, etc and switched to Pettit SR40 last year and have had great success. I wont go back to the overpriced and underperforming Interlux products anytime soon.


----------



## dreuge (Sep 18, 2009)

T37Chef said:


> Ive used the Interlux prodcuts, CSC, Micron, etc and switched to Pettit SR40 last year and have had success.


Is there any reason why you did not go with the Pettit SR60?


----------



## CalypsoP35 (Jul 24, 2006)

I've used Micron CSC up here in the Northeast with good results. Last year, I went to West Marine's CPP because I was told it is the same stuff but made for West Marine and is sold at a significantly lower price. (Something like $169 v. 119/gallon.) I don't know if it really is the same stuff, but I had clean bottom at last year's haul out and will go forward with the West Marine product.


----------



## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

We've used SR60 for the past two years on the Chesapeake. The bottom almost doesn't need to be power-washed when we haul for winter. Of course, it's the Chesapeake, not Florida, and we haul for winter. But for what it's worth, we've had a good experience.

If you're doing the application, I found the suggested thinner useful when it was warmer or windy. I stuck to the recommended ratios, but it did help the paint flow better.

Best of luck,
J


----------



## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

If I recall SR 60 says they recommended it be applied by a "professional"? So I thought I would try out the SR40 first, but may try SR60 next year.


----------



## PalmettoSailor (Mar 7, 2006)

I'll chime in that I've been satisfied with Pettit Hydrocoat after using it on my previous boat and current one on the Chesapeake.

A slight coat of slime is all I've ever had to deal with leaving the boat in the water 2 seasons at a time, hauling out every other year.


----------



## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

I've used Micron the last two paint jobs, as that is what came with the boat for the PO in his 20 yrs of owning the boat. Worked overall pretty well in Puget sound. I just painted after 3 yrs with WM's equal with slime. 

Do not know how it will work, but was cheap, and am hoping to haul in the next 6-18 months and do a complete bottom remove and redo with hard paint. With that, I will swag my Jeanneau 30 is about the same sq footage and disp as your C&C, fin keel 6500 lbs disp, 25.5 waterline, I used ~.8 gal with two full coats, 4 on the waterline down a foot, leading and tailing edges of fin and rudder. I think I have a pic out of the water I can post if you want a view of my boat to see how close it is to yours. I would start with one gal, assuming the supply place is close by. You may only need 1-1.25 gals, a qt on the tail end is way cheaper than having .75 gals left over! 

Marty


----------



## sailhog (Dec 11, 2006)

NE Gulf coast -- go with Micron. That's what most sailors here use....


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Shaun....were you implying J was not a professional???????

We are switching from Micron Extra to the UltimaSR40 on Chefs recommendation ( we have had good luck however with the micron Extra)

Chef.... should I be going with the SR60 instead?

Dave


----------



## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

I've been using Pettit Hydrocoat, which is water-based) for at least 3 years with good results here in Connecticut. It was applied over CSC, which I had previously used for over 10 years.

Every spring I simple buff the bottom (which the boatyard had power washed in the fall) using plain water and a scouring pad (the kind that has a handle) and roll on a single, thin coat. 

Another bit of advice: If you have a substantial build-up of a solvent-based ablative paint,you might simply wipe your bottom down with acetone or paint thinner and a rag to refresh the surface. You might touch up the water line, but you can avoid applying a whole new coat.


----------



## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Anybody else know if Micron CSC has been discontinued for certain? It's been our paint of choice for the last 20 years.


----------



## overbored (Oct 8, 2010)

Faster said:


> Anybody else know if Micron CSC has been discontinued for certain? It's been our paint of choice for the last 20 years.


Why do you think it is discontinued it is still on the Interlux website.


----------



## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

overbored said:


> Why do you think it is discontinued it is still on the Interlux website.


See post #5 above.....


----------



## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

Defender has both CSC and CSC Extra on their website. Their annual warehouse sale starts next week. Stock up.


----------



## DrB (Mar 29, 2007)

*Another Experience*

My boat is in Salem, MA. It goes in end of April and gets hauled mid-November. It is used every week 1-3X.

The previous owner used Interlux Micron 33 and when I bought the boat, the bottom was so smooth, I asked him what he used. When I went to repaint, I couldn't find the Micron 33, so went to Micron 66. The was a great paint, but it was a lot of money. Since I haul my boat yearly, I decided last year to try West Marine's Version with anti-slime and am very happy with the results.

The WM version may result in a tad more slime, but but not enough to make a difference. It also may wear a little worse. I seem to have less residual paint than the Micron 66 so, for extended seasons or heavy use, it may mean a shorter duration bewteen repaints. For a 6 to 9 month season, I don't think it makes a differnce, The bottom power washed of well when she was pulled.

Since the WM stuff is 50% of the price of the Interlux Micron 66 and they are are almost equivalent in performance, the WM paint is recommended.

DrB


----------



## T37SOLARE (Feb 1, 2008)

From Pratical Sailor in regards to the Pettit SR-40

"the West Marine paints made by Pettit: PCA Gold (re-branded Ultima SR-40)"

Not sure if it's 100% true as Pettit advertises the SR-40 as a dual biocide paint with PTFE (Teflon) and WM only clams Irgarol as the biocide and no PTFE.


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

ok...I bought 2 gallons of the Petit Ultima SR60 as recommended by T37chef. Any special notes I need to know about application as it has such a high Cu content?

BTW. Defender is having a great sale on Petit Bottom Paints. I got the UltimaSR60 for $200 / gallon no tax with a twenty dollar rebate per gallon to mail in.

Dave


----------



## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

chef2sail said:


> ok...I bought 2 gallons of the Petit Ultima SR60 as recommended by T37chef. Any special notes I need to know about application as it has such a high Cu content?
> 
> BTW. Defender is having a great sale on Petit Bottom Paints. I got the UltimaSR60 for $200 / gallon no tax with a twenty dollar rebate per gallon to mail in.
> 
> Dave


Use a drill with a stirrer and stir it frequently and right before each pour into the roller tray. Only pour enough into the tray for a few "dips" of the roller.

I actually made the move over to Pettit Horizons or the Ultima SR series due to slower ablative speeds. It begins to ablade, wear away, at slower speeds than the Micron line does thus working better at sloughing on a sailboat. I found with Micron I rarely got to my tracer color and the slime would build up worse than the slower speed ablatives. I wanted to try Hydrocoat but after speaking with the rep and tech support I discovered it does not begin to ablade until a higer speed is reached. This is fine for a power boat, Sea Ray's ship with Hydrocoat, but on a sail boat I like a paint that begins to slough at 2-3 knots vs, 6-7+ to avoid build up..

Some slow speed ablatives:

Multi-Season:

Ultima SR products
Petitt Horizons (the non-slime version of SR)
West Marine PCA Gold

Single season:

Interlux ACT (this stuff is about as soft as it gets)
Pettit SSA (Single Season Ablative or as the rep calls it "Super Soft Ablative)


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Thanks Maine for the advice on the drill stirrer. I imagine with the extra CU content its important to keep it in solution

Your reasons for swtiching over from Micro to Petit were exactly mine. The sloughing off of the sline layer at the sailboat speed should make an improvement. I must say I was always happy with the Micron Extra...but I use the boat quite frequently so I may not have seen the difference others have.

Dave


----------



## RobGallagher (Aug 22, 2001)

I have had great luck with micron extra. Also tried the west marine version and it is much cheaper, the results where ok but it was evident that I got what I paid for.


----------



## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

We all have different needs for different waters. We are fresh water - no barnicles at all. I'd just like a little help making the slime come off easier at the end of the season. So I'll chime in on my paint choice, since it's different from anyone else here.

My boat had stale WM Bottomshield on the hull when I bought it a year ago. Not the right paint choice because the boat is hauled every year. However, the rudder had an ablative - not sure what grade, but the marina who replaced the rudder typically uses Interlux Micron.

In the 2+ knot tidal currents of the Delaware River, with the occasional piece of driftwood that would get stuck in my slip and slide past the rudder 4x/day, the ablative wore off at the waterline in less than a month. Even below the waterline, it was gone after about 2 months. The current was just too much for that paint. I estimate that the current causes my boat to effectively "sail" about 20 miles a day just sitting in the slip.

Because of these wear issues I went searching for a hard paint that can survive haulout every winter without needing to recoat. Pettit Vivid is the only one I could find. Apparently the cuprous thiocyanide does not lose its effectiveness in the air like cuprous oxide. So I have it on order.

Have any of you used Pettit Vivid? Comments on it?


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

The only problem with using the hard paints is that you should sand sown before applying multiple coats so it is an added step. Thats amazing that the ablative wears off so fast as I though most were not effective until you hit 6 knots or so,

Dave


----------



## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

chef2sail said:


> The only problem with using the hard paints is that you should sand sown before applying multiple coats so it is an added step. Thats amazing that the ablative wears off so fast as I though most were not effective until you hit 6 knots or so,
> 
> Dave


Yeah, I actually meant to talk to you about this last night. I spent all day Saturday (ran home for a quick shower before our dinner) and a couple hours today sanding. I've got hard paint on the hull, so I don't need to sand it all off. I'm just smoothing out the paint drips, scuffing the surface, and fairing the edges of chips. The rudder needs to be completely stripped, and I'm considering a chemical strip since it's not that much surface area.

I was shocked about the ablative wearing off so fast. Along the waterline the driftwood really does a number on it fast. The rudder paint was not completely worn off - just the points of high turbulence like the edges of the rudder and the level at the bottom of the transom a couple inches below the waterline (note I have a transom-hung rudder). But when I hauled the boat, there was no grass at all - I suspect it can't attach because of the constant scrubbing action of the current.


----------



## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

RhythmDoctor said:


> Yeah, I actually meant to talk to you about this last night. I spent all day Saturday (ran home for a quick shower before our dinner) and a couple hours today sanding. I've got hard paint on the hull, so I don't need to sand it all off. I'm just smoothing out the paint drips, scuffing the surface, and fairing the edges of chips. The rudder needs to be completely stripped, and I'm considering a chemical strip since it's not that much surface area.
> 
> I was shocked about the ablative wearing off so fast. Along the waterline the driftwood really does a number on it fast. The rudder paint was not completely worn off - just the points of high turbulence like the edges of the rudder and the level at the bottom of the transom a couple inches below the waterline (note I have a transom-hung rudder). But when I hauled the boat, there was no grass at all - I suspect it can't attach because of the constant scrubbing action of the current.


Sounds a lot more like ACT or another single season ablative. My buddy with a lobster boat, who fishes it about 65-70 hours per week, uses Micron and gets two seasons out of it with two initial coats, except where the traps hit the hull, but no paint holds up to that. He does wayyyy more than 20 miles/day and fishes 6 days per week and does mooring work on Sundays...


----------



## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

Well I can only report what my actual (limited) experience has been in my area. I was actually on my way to WM to buy PCA Gold ablative, but just could not bring myself to pull the trigger given my experience with the rudder. Once I put ablative on, I would need to take it all off if I didn't like it and wanted to go back to back a hard paint. So I'm going to try the Vivid hard paint on top of my current (sanded) hard paint, and if I don't get at least 2 seasons out of it I'll sand it smooth again and try an ablative next time.

I'm just putting it out there since my experience represents a different sailing range than others have reported.


----------



## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

RhythmDoctor said:


> Have any of you used Pettit Vivid? Comments on it?


Vivid is possibly the least durable ablative paint on the market. Good luck.


----------



## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

Fstbttms said:


> Vivid is possibly the least durable ablative paint on the market. Good luck.


Can you be more specific? Cite sources? Have you actually used it yourself, or cleaned many bottoms with it?

It's listed as a hard paint, not an ablative. Rated pretty well in the P-S evaluations. So your comment comes as a surprise. Please elaborate. I suspect you have some first-hand experience from scrubbing bottoms.


----------



## JimsCAL (May 23, 2007)

For anyone buying Pettit paint this spring, here's the link for the $20 per gallon rebate:

Pettit Marine Paints - Bounce Back Rebate


----------



## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

RhythmDoctor said:


> Can you be more specific? Cite sources? Have you actually used it yourself, or cleaned many bottoms with it?
> 
> It's listed as a hard paint, not an ablative. Rated pretty well in the P-S evaluations. So your comment comes as a surprise. Please elaborate. I suspect you have some first-hand experience from scrubbing bottoms.


Vivid is is a "hybrid" anti fouling paint and in the water, on your hull, comes off like the softest ablative you have ever seen. Have I ever used it? No. Nor would I. In a world where good ablatives and modified epoxies last 2+ years, Vivid will last maybe half of that. Not saying it's a bad paint, just saying don't expect long life from it, especially if the conditions you keep your boat in tend to shorten an anti fouling's lifespan just sitting there.

I make this statement based on my 16 years in the hull cleaning biz. I run across Vivid all the time. I do not recommend it to my clients.


----------



## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

Are you sure you are not referring to "Vivid Free"? That's very different from "Vivid."

I'm just very puzzled that a paint that is marketed as a hard paint can turn out to be softer than the softest ablatives.


----------



## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

RhythmDoctor said:


> Are you sure you are not referring to "Vivid Free"? That's very different from "Vivid."
> 
> I'm just very puzzled that a paint that is marketed as a hard paint can turn out to be softer than the softest ablatives.


I am not talking about Vivid Free. I am talking about the standard Vivid. It is not marketed strictly as a hard paint, it is a hybrid. Even the Petit web site lists it under both "Hard" and "Ablative" categories. It has attributes of both types. One of the ablative attributes is that it comes off the hull easier than just about anything else I have ever seen.

I'm just telling you what I know from years of real world experience.


----------



## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

Fstbttms said:


> I am not talking about Vivid Free. I am talking about the standard Vivid. It is not marketed strictly as a hard paint, it is a hybrid. Even the Petit web site lists it under both "Hard" and "Ablative" categories. It has attributes of both types. One of the ablative attributes is that it comes off the hull easier than just about anything else I have ever seen.
> 
> I'm just telling you what I know from years of real world experience.


Thanks for your patience with me, and for taking the time to respond. After some more searching I am seeing things that agree with your valuable first-hand experience. It is definitely something to think about. If it's really an ablative, then that opens up a whole bunch of other possibilities.

I think I was confused by the fact that Practical Sailor (and several websites) listed it as a hard paint without highlighting the "hybrid" properties. As you told me (multiple times), it seems to be no more durable than a normal ablative. I guess the only thing that makes it similar to some hard paints is that it can be burnished, but my bottom is already too rough to be able to do that in the next year or so.

So let me ask your advice. What would you recommend for the most durable possible ablative paint for fresh water, where I have no barnacles but lots of slime? From what I'm learning, high copper content is not needed, but extra biocides could help. Which grades fit that description?

Thanks again - sorry I was so dense!


----------



## Fstbttms (Feb 25, 2003)

RhythmDoctor said:


> So let me ask your advice. What would you recommend for the most durable possible ablative paint for fresh water, where I have no barnacles but lots of slime? From what I'm learning, high copper content is not needed, but extra biocides could help. Which grades fit that description?


I am not going to tell you that I know which paint will work best for you in freshwater. I do not service boats in freshwater and so have no experience with what works well there and what doesn't. Further, an anti fouling paint that works great in one region (be it saltwater or fresh) may not perform in another. In addition, my favorite ablative, Micron 66, is not suitable for freshwater at all. In your situation, I suspect that Micron CSC is probably about as good as any other ablative paint you can buy.

I will say this, however. In a previous post you indicated that your objection to a hard paint is that once you used an ablative, you wouldn't be able to go back to hard without sanding all the old paint off first. This is not true. Most hard paints are compatible with most ablatives and one can go over another with excellent results. A bit of sanding to give the ablative some "tooth" is all that is typically needed. And that being said, I think that Petit Trinidad SR is hands down the best anti fouling paint available.


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

I would agree with the TrinidAd SR if I was to go "hard"


----------



## TakeFive (Oct 22, 2009)

Well you guys have me thinking. I think I am going to call Pettit tomorrow and see what their experts suggest. The original Vivid recommendation came from sales guys at their booth at the Annapolis Boat Show, but the questions raised here are very valid.


----------



## dreuge (Sep 18, 2009)

UPDATE

I went with the Petit Ultima SR-60. Since then, my boat has been in the water for 1-1/4 years, and the bottom still looks newly painted! I have had a little bit of green slim and have gently wiped down the bottom two times over the last year.

In an area where barnacles and oysters are a big problem, I have no, zero, zilch problems from to these critters. I am hoping to go three years before hauling out again. So far so good.



dreuge said:


> I am looking to repaint the bottom of my sailboat. It is going on three years since it was done by the previous owner. The paint currently is/was an ablative paint.
> 
> I sail in the gulf along the FL panhandle, and I am planning on going with another ablative paint. Barnacles are problem here. So far I have narrowed my choices down to 4 paints. I was originally planing on going with an Interlux, but I recently came across the Pettit Ultima paints which currently have rebate offers ($10-$20/gal off).
> 
> ...


----------



## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

chef2sail said:


> I would agree with the TrinidAd SR if I was to go "hard"


That just doesnt read well uke


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

T37Chef said:


> That just doesnt read well uke


Its how old guys speak:laugher:laugher:laugher


----------



## svHyLyte (Nov 13, 2008)

dreuge said:


> UPDATE
> 
> I went with the Petit Ultima SR-60. Since then, my boat has been in the water for 1-1/4 years, and the bottom still looks newly painted! I have had a little bit of green slim and have gently wiped down the bottom two times over the last year.
> 
> In an area where barnacles and oysters are a big problem, I have no, zero, zilch problems from to these critters. I am hoping to go three years before hauling out again. So far so good.


We have been using the Petit Ultima SR in the south Tampa Bay area for quite some time and have found that even after 2-1/2 years, the paint remains very effective. FWIW we have the bottom wiped down once a month or so by our diver.


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Rick,

We use Ultima 60 in an environment which has salinity and fresh water also. Since you are on the Delaware is there no salt water where you are? Hard to beleive in the summer when the salt line comes up the Delaware it doesnt reach Essington. So its entirely fresh water where you are? I would have though you had some salt content to it. 

Dave


----------



## MarkSF (Feb 21, 2011)

chef2sail said:


> Its how old guys speak:laugher:laugher:laugher


As you get older, hard bottom paint is as exciting as it gets.


----------



## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

Bawahahahahaha


----------



## SaltyHog (Sep 7, 2010)

Has anyone applied Pettit Ultima SR-60 hot-coated over Interprotect 2000? I had my bottom peeled and a new vinylester layup applied. My fiberglass guy is recommending Interprotect and I want to use the Pettit Ultima SR-60 over that. Interlux says that hot coating (thumb print test) with Ultima SR-60 is ok. Here's the thing: the instructions for Pettit's version of epoxy barrier coat has instruction for hot coating with bottom paint that sound similar to Interlux's, except for the SR-60. For SR-60, the barrier coat should be set up to "Tack free". SR-60 uses a different solvent than SR-40 and the other paints, so I'm wondering if that is why the difference. Anyway, I know at least someone had put SR-40 over Interprotect, I was wondering if anyone has had success or problems with hotcoating Interprotect with the SR-60.


----------



## 4arch (Jul 7, 2009)

Salty,

I used 2 coats of SR-60 over 2000e last month and "hot coated" the first coat of SR-60. I didn't have any issues. The boat's back in the water now though, so if any long-term issues come up, I won't know for a while.

I'd be curious to check out the literature you were looking at if you have a link? I found Pettit's TB-Z155 _Bottom Painting Bare Fiberglass_ technical bulletin advised applying SR-60 to their 6999 Sandless Primer tack-free. But as far as I can tell, the 6999 is not an epoxy product. Their 4700/4701 looks to be a 2-part epoxy barrier coat more similar to the 2000e. I couldn't find any info specific to SR-60 over the 4700/4701.


----------



## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

SaltyHog said:


> Has anyone applied Pettit Ultima SR-60 hot-coated over Interprotect 2000? I had my bottom peeled and a new vinylester layup applied. My fiberglass guy is recommending Interprotect and I want to use the Pettit Ultima SR-60 over that. Interlux says that hot coating (thumb print test) with Ultima SR-60 is ok. Here's the thing: the instructions for Pettit's version of epoxy barrier coat has instruction for hot coating with bottom paint that sound similar to Interlux's, except for the SR-60. For SR-60, the barrier coat should be set up to "Tack free". SR-60 uses a different solvent than SR-40 and the other paints, so I'm wondering if that is why the difference. Anyway, I know at least someone had put SR-40 over Interprotect, I was wondering if anyone has had success or problems with hotcoating Interprotect with the SR-60.


I used Horizons as the "hot coat" layer at the advice of Pettit. Horizons is the same base co-polymer paint without the slime blocker and a little less copper (equal to Ultima SR40). They suggested the non-slime blocker as the hot coat/tracer then you can switch to Ultima SR. This went over IP2KE 6 years ago and there are zero adhesion or build up issues. Steve Miller our local rep up here has recently told me that hot coating with either SR40 or SR60 is not a problem at least with their barrier coat. He would not comment on IP2KE which is what I used.

Keep in mind that as copper content goes up, and slime blockers get added, coverage per gallon goes down slightly. SR60 covers about 400 sq ft. and Horizons covers about 500 sq ft., SR 40 about 450 sq ft. SR60 has a different solvent than SR40..

Just finished applying SR60 and it is tough to cover my hull with 1 gal but I can easily do it with SR40. SR40 is the exact same paint as West Marine PCA GOLD...


----------



## dreuge (Sep 18, 2009)

I sanded the bottom down to the barrier coat, applied Interprotect 2000 down one side and up the other. Then within 15-20 minutes of completing that, I started my application of SR-60. Three coats SR-60 in all.

The boat has been in the water for over 18 months now and still looks great with no hard growth(Carrabelle, FL). After the first year, I found that I need to wipe off the slime using a microfiber glove. I have wiped it down a few times now, and I am hoping to get another 12-18 months at least before another application of SR-60.

Here is the link to the Dollar General microfiber glove I use:
DG Auto Microfiber Car Wash Mitt - Auto Cleaning - Dollar General


----------



## SaltyHog (Sep 7, 2010)

4arch said:


> Salty,
> 
> I used 2 coats of SR-60 over 2000e last month and "hot coated" the first coat of SR-60. I didn't have any issues. The boat's back in the water now though, so if any long-term issues come up, I won't know for a while.
> 
> I'd be curious to check out the literature you were looking at if you have a link? I found Pettit's TB-Z155 _Bottom Painting Bare Fiberglass_ technical bulletin advised applying SR-60 to their 6999 Sandless Primer tack-free. But as far as I can tell, the 6999 is not an epoxy product. Their 4700/4701 looks to be a 2-part epoxy barrier coat more similar to the 2000e. I couldn't find any info specific to SR-60 over the 4700/4701.


4arch : You are right! I just checked and I guess I had a brain fart. The requirement for tack free for the SR60 was for the 6999 Sandless Primer. The Pettit Protect epoxy primer has times to wait before coating with bottom paint. No distinction is made for any Pettit bottom paint. 
_3. Apply the first coat of Pettit antifouling paint overthe last coat of epoxy within the specified overcoating schedule shown
below.
Hull Temperature To Bottom Paint(Hours)
90° F 3*‐*6
70° F 5*‐*8
50° F 7*‐*10
If these dry times are exceeded, you must sand the last coat of epoxy thoroughly with 80 grit production paper before applying antifouling paint or apply another coat of epoxy if recoat window has not been exceeded. Do not apply antifouling paint before the minimum dry time, as mud cracking of the antifoulingmay result.​_
This seems similar to what Interlux says for Interprotect 2K. Thanks for catching my error! I was about to throw in the towel and just use Micron Extra as I really don't want any adhesion problems. FWIW, Interlux seems to have really good customer support between their reps and the online help forum. Pettit has also been responsive in returning emails, though the responses are a bit light on detail. Pettit customer service did say that the SR-60 will bond well with the barrier coat. To be fair, I've been asking both companies a question about how their product will work with another companies product.


----------



## SaltyHog (Sep 7, 2010)

Maine Sail said:


> I used Horizons as the "hot coat" layer at the advice of Pettit. Horizons is the same base co-polymer paint without the slime blocker and a little less copper (equal to Ultima SR40). They suggested the non-slime blocker as the hot coat/tracer then you can switch to Ultima SR. This went over IP2KE 6 years ago and there are zero adhesion or build up issues. Steve Miller our local rep up here has recently told me that hot coating with either SR40 or SR60 is not a problem at least with their barrier coat. He would not comment on IP2KE which is what I used.
> 
> Keep in mind that as copper content goes up, and slime blockers get added, coverage per gallon goes down slightly. SR60 covers about 400 sq ft. and Horizons covers about 500 sq ft., SR 40 about 450 sq ft. SR60 has a different solvent than SR40..
> 
> Just finished applying SR60 and it is tough to cover my hull with 1 gal but I can easily do it with SR40. SR40 is the exact same paint as West Marine PCA GOLD...


Main: It was your posts specifically that prompted me to ask both Interlux and Pettit about whether it was better to hot coat the barrier coat with a non-slime inhibitor paint. Both said it's fine. Go figure huh. Either they have changed their thinking or you spoke to someone at Interlux/Pettit that knew either more or less than those I talked to. At this point I think I'm going with the SR60 over Interprotect 2K hot coating at thumbprint tacky. It seems others have done this with good results (so far). It seems that most are happy with SR60 in general. I hardly ever go faster than 6 kts, so your logic regarding Ultima SR 60 vs. Micron Extra makes sense.


----------



## SaltyHog (Sep 7, 2010)

dreuge said:


> I sanded the bottom down to the barrier coat, applied Interprotect 2000 down one side and up the other. Then within 15-20 minutes of completing that, I started my application of SR-60. Three coats SR-60 in all.
> 
> The boat has been in the water for over 18 months now and still looks great with no hard growth(Carrabelle, FL). After the first year, I found that I need to wipe off the slime using a microfiber glove. I have wiped it down a few times now, and I am hoping to get another 12-18 months at least before another application of SR-60.
> 
> ...


Glad that it's working for you. This is the same recipe I plan to follow. I bit scary mixing products from different manufactures, but this seems to be the best logical approach. Thanks for the tip on the mitt. Seems a good way to wipe down with out taking off too much paint while you're doing it.


----------



## 4arch (Jul 7, 2009)

4arch said:


> I used 2 coats of SR-60 over 2000e last month and "hot coated" the first coat of SR-60. I didn't have any issues. The boat's back in the water now though, so if any long-term issues come up, I won't know for a while.


Update: I went for a swim while at anchor this weekend and had the first good up-close look at the SR-60 since launch back in early April. The boat has been sailed almost every weekend since, but not yet had the bottom cleaned. Slime was low to moderate, less than what might normally be expected after 2 1/2 months in the water. Unfortunately hard growth has started particularly on the aft quarters and top of the rudder. There don't seem to be any issues with adhesion. All in all it seems to be doing moderately well, but I was surprised to see hard growth starting so soon.


----------



## T37Chef (Oct 9, 2006)

that's odd 4arch..um


----------



## chef2sail (Nov 27, 2007)

Agree, we just had the diver down on our 3 year old paint and the prop need work, but the paint had little growth he said. Must be something in the water across the river.

Dave


----------



## 4arch (Jul 7, 2009)

Super aggressive mutant barnacles caused by all the junk the steel plant dumped in the river?


----------



## solarfry (Sep 6, 2008)

Read where they are located. You need a lot more protection in FL waters because the water is much warmer and loves slime and barnacles.


----------

