# V Berth Bedding alternatives



## TheRealBill (May 28, 2010)

Hi, I wanted to replace my V berth cushions b/c they are old and smelly. So I took then to a shop today for a quote... 

Holy Fudge! $1300 smackers! I'll like,,,umm...I don't think so! That was with 5 inch padding, mesh backing with the cheapest Sunbrella fabric. This wasn't even memory foam...it was 2 in firm and then 3 in med for the insides. Anyway, I wont sleep in these nasty things so I have to ask for some opinions on more cost effective solutions.

I'm not as concerned about how they look as I plan on covering them up when sheets and blankets anyway. 

This is for a 33 Cheoy Lee. It's 3 pieces. 

Thanks


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

The foam can be cut with an old electric knife like they used in the 70's to cut the turkey. (only time they came out in my house growing up) You can find them for 2 or 3 dollars in most thrift shops. If they are not really visible then just get a foam mattress from some place like overstock.com. they sell one made for "rvs" that looks good and cut it to match the existing cushions. It comes with 2 layers of foam for around $300. I would save the existing covers in case you want to have new ones made.

Why use sunbrella in a v-birth? Does not seem comfortable. Any synthetic upholstery fabric should work. Should not get a lot of UV down there.


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## bljones (Oct 13, 2008)

First, why not just wash everything? Go to the laundromat, toss the covers in a washer with a cupful of Murphy's oil soap, while the covers are washing, take the sponge cushions to a car wash and hose 'em down, and then vaccuum the water out with the super-sucker big-ass vaccuum they have there. by the time the cushions are dried out, go back to the laundromat and toss the covers in the dryer on COOL, and you're good to go. while you're at it, do the rest of the skanky cushions on your boat- the starboard settee looks like it could use a good sanitizing.


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## bljones (Oct 13, 2008)

First, why not just wash everything? Go to the laundromat, toss the covers in a washer with a cupful of Murphy's oil soap, while the covers are washing, take the sponge cushions to a car wash and hose 'em down, and then vaccuum the water out with the super-sucker big-ass vaccuum they have there. by the time the cushions are dried out, go back to the laundromat and toss the covers in the dryer on COOL, and you're good to go. while you're at it, do the rest of the skanky cushions on your boat- the starboard settee looks like it could use a good sanitizing.


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## TheRealBill (May 28, 2010)

yeah...the starboard settee is actually the worse one. I was thinking of getting this 
Walmart.com - Spa Sensations 4" Memory Foam Mattress-Topper

Then drawing a outline from my form and saw away. I have one of those turkey cutter knifes...has two blades. I also have a nice reciprocating saw...I could get a 6 inch fine tooth blade and saw way....


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## bljones (Oct 13, 2008)

Rather than going mechanical, if you are determined to cut foam, use a hot knife. Quick, easy, no mess. You can build a hot knife for not much, or buy one for not much more.

Hotwire*Foam*Factory*::*1....


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## TheRealBill (May 28, 2010)

bljones said:


> Rather than going mechanical, if you are determined to cut foam, use a hot knife. Quick, easy, no mess. You can build a hot knife for not much, or buy one for not much more.
> 
> Hotwire*Foam*Factory*::*1....


Great idea...the hot knife...I would prefer to lay my head on new foam...then I can use the other foam for other areas. K...So I think I'll get a hot knife and one of those mattresses...then swing by the fabric store and get some decent covering...thanks again...


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## tomwatt (Dec 11, 2009)

There is a thread on here "Cushions Cost How Much" that has several good suggestions. Quite a few people suggested Overstock.com as a resource.
I have also seen a few boats listed with custom-built traditional spring mattesses. Although I have a feeling that might cost more than a few doubloons.


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## SlowButSteady (Feb 17, 2010)

I've heard of people buying a futon and cutting it down to fit. The only drawback I can envision is that some are made (at least partially) with cotton batting which, of course, would be a disaster if it got wet. However, some are made with wool batting and a foam center. I suppose those could, in theory, be dried out (albeit, with a bit more difficulty than plain foam cushions).


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Bill, the mattress business (land or sea) is radically overpriced. If you can find a foam rubber manufacturer or supplier in your yellow pages--they'll be at least 1/2 cheaper than any mattress store for the same foam rubber goods.

There are also a number of "bedding" stores on the web that will sell foam rubber mattresses cheaper than most local stores. Don't think you can use a "topper" as a mattrress, the toppers are designed to crush down under your weight and just supply conformation, they are not firm enough to be used alone as matresses.

Somehow I grew up and lived on no more than 6" of mattress, the bedding stores today say I couldn't possibly have slept on less than a foot of padding. (Yeah right.)

A carpet "steam" cleaner, rented from a supermarket or hardware store for $25/half day, makes a great way to clean upholstery. And your car interior while you're at it. Just give it good time to dry out afterwards!


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

6 inch thick
Home RV 6-inch Reversible RV Short Queen-size Foam Mattress | Overstock.com
8 inch thick
8-inch Queen-size Accu-Gold Memory Foam RV Component Sleep System | Overstock.com

Thing is you don't want just memory foam, as it does not give much cushion. You want some regular foam, then memory foam. both of the above is for queen, has foundation foam and GOOD memory foam. The Wall-mart memory foam will not be very satisfactory, I know I wasted my money on it already!


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## TheRealBill (May 28, 2010)

So I decided to clean what I had to start. The removed covers came out great. I cleaned the white under sides with degreaser first and then scrubbed with soap and water. Then put them in the washer...those came out pretty good. 

The foam I soaked in a vinegar water mixture in a small swimming pool I had. These are drying now. To get the excess water out I placed them on the sidewalk...put a piece of plywood over them and ran them over with my front wheel...several times...flipped it over and did the same...They are drying now....we'll see what happens.

I think what I will wind up doing it is using those that I have cleaned,,,then buying a topper...probably 4"...and cutting that to go over top. Then I'll cut the topper to fit...maybe...depends on how everything smells when dry...thank for you help!!!!


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

Bill-
FWIW if you have any trouble getting the foam (or foam plus topper) back into the covers, which may have shrunk up a bit, try putting a large trash bag over the foam, with the open end faving in and the bottom facing out. The covers slip right over the plastic, and then you can pull the plastic bag out leaving the foam tightly tucked into the cover.


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## TheRealBill (May 28, 2010)

hellosailor said:


> Bill-
> FWIW if you have any trouble getting the foam (or foam plus topper) back into the covers, which may have shrunk up a bit, try putting a large trash bag over the foam, with the open end faving in and the bottom facing out. The covers slip right over the plastic, and then you can pull the plastic bag out leaving the foam tightly tucked into the cover.


Good idea...thanks!

The canvas came pretty clean...so I'm happy with that.

But the foam still smells a bit funky. I soaks them in vinegar and water...thought that may work as I read it somewhere here...not good enough. Anyone ever try bleach to remove the mildew smell?


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

If you can still smell mildew, you still have LIVE mildew. Bleach is one of the few things that really kills it. Of course then you'll smell the bleach, and it is easy to use too much bleach. Make sure you rinse it well, if you can still smell bleach when you are done, it will still be in there attacking the foam.

Do not use ammonia--that attacks latex and breaks it down.

If there's someplace near you that does carpet cleaning in a store? They have machines that run the carpet (or the foam) through rollers with a steam bath, that's really effective at cleaning. And drying--which will prevent the mildew from restarting.


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## trailblazer1229 (May 27, 2009)

Home Depot and Lowes sells a product called mold control. It is used to mitigate small mold and mildew problems around the house. Once sprayed it also protects and coats against further contmaination. I have never used it on fabric or foam, but I have used it on wood. It gives a musty smell once sprayed, but when it dries, there is no more smell. Seems to work well enough.


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## TheRealBill (May 28, 2010)

miatapaul said:


> 6 inch thick
> Home RV 6-inch Reversible RV Short Queen-size Foam Mattress | Overstock.com
> 8 inch thick
> 8-inch Queen-size Accu-Gold Memory Foam RV Component Sleep System | Overstock.com
> ...


I went with the 8' cal king.

I like that is comes in 3' 3' and 2'...I might use 5" or 6" for the bed...and use the other elsewhere...A buddy hooked me up with a roll of beautiful white leather which will be the cover...I'll post some pictures when done.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

sounds cool!


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## TheRealBill (May 28, 2010)

I've decide that I can easily be comfy on the 6 in. The first 3 in is firm foam and then the second 3 in is the 5.3 lb memory foam...sleep on it last night in my living room...perfect...now I can double up the other 2 in and use it for my settee berth.

Now, my question is, I need to adhere one foam to the other...and i want to do that before I cut...what type of glue or adhesive would be best and the least toxic? I was thinking the spray headliner glue for cars...?

Thanks


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

"I was thinking the spray headliner glue for cars...?"
I'd suggest 3M's #77 Sprayment, which is a permanent adhesive, or their headliner spray, yes. All of those sprays are "rubber cement" but some of the cheap stuff is not permanent, or releases after time and heat. Buy a brand name. Then let it air out, once the solvent kicks off there should be no toxicity problem.
The foam itself may need to air out for a week or longer anyway, to get rid of chemicals from the manufacturing.


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

hellosailor said:


> "I was thinking the spray headliner glue for cars...?"
> I'd suggest 3M's #77 Sprayment, which is a permanent adhesive, or their headliner spray, yes. All of those sprays are "rubber cement" but some of the cheap stuff is not permanent, or releases after time and heat. Buy a brand name. Then let it air out, once the solvent kicks off there should be no toxicity problem.
> The foam itself may need to air out for a week or longer anyway, to get rid of chemicals from the manufacturing.


That is the biggest complaint I have read about the less expensive memory foam mattress it that since they come vacuum packed they give off a lot of odor at first. I think it is more that it is packed in plastic, rather than the loose covering of the more expensive ones as they do not ship compressed. I think a few days or perhaps a week, and they will be OK.

I would check a good craft store (or even better would be an upholstery shop) and see what they recommend, you don't want to wind up melting the foam!


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

paul, someone in the wetsuit industry clued me in some years ago. All "foams" are made one of two ways. Either they inject compressed gas (nitrogen) under pressure, and then release the pressure to allow the foam to fizz up in a mold, or they use "pancake batter" which fizzes up as it is heated in a mold.

The batter solidifies and cures to become the "foamed" rubber, either way. But using compressed nitrogen, which is chemically inert, is way way more expensive than using "pancake batter" which will bubble up from internal chemical reactions, literally just like baking a soda bread. Odds are the odors are from the various chemicals given off during the curing, and they are simply trapped by the plastic wrapper. 

Some of the companies make a point about the non-toxicity of their foams, because you never really know what it is you are inhaling, up close, for eight hours every night, while a new mattress is outgassing. Another good reason to let it air out until you really can't smell anything from it.

The 3M #77 won't melt upholstery foams, it is designed for them. That's one of the materials normally used to assemble layers of foam mattresses. I'm sure there are others that are water-based and don't use petroleum solvents these days. Latex-based "cove base molding adhesive" from the hardware store also can work very well, it is a white paste designed to bond rubber/vinyl moldings to wall bases, but then you'll have to "butter" both pieces of foam in order to apply it. Water based, no solvent worries, but I'll keep using the 3M myself.


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## Julie303 (May 19, 2007)

Another way to increase comfort without increasing depth of the foam is to put in a Froli system. For about $250, I added these little springs under the V-berth and it's like sleeping on an innerspring mattress. They're like tinkertoys gone wild and only took me about an hour and a half to install; and that included doing it wrong the first time.


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## nickmerc (Nov 2, 2008)

I started to put my Thermarest on top of my foam cushions. As I get older I am less tolerant of thin foam cushions. I found the combination of the two pads is great. I like that I can stow the Thermarest when not in use since I sleep in the salon and I can use it for other activities. Last I checked they are reasonably priced.
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