# porta-bote repair?



## bristol299bob (Apr 13, 2011)

Courtesy of hurricane Florence I find myself in possession of two 10ft porta-botes, both damaged. I intend to make one usable bote from the parts. 

Patient #1: has two tears/holes in the floor each about 4"x1" 

Patient #2: the plastic transom is torn right along the seam. This patient is better condition overall but the tear along the seam means that the repair would be flexed/worked each time the bote is folded/unfolded. 

Which patient would attempt to save? and how?


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

My initial thoughts are to repair both.

1..patch 
2..pull staples and replace polypro transom sheet, seal etc


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## mbianka (Sep 19, 2014)

There is a tape used in roofing repair that is recommended for patching a Porta-Bote repair. Used it on my 16 year old Porta-bote myself. It's sticky and strong. Pretty sure it is this stuff: https://www.eternabond.com/RoofSeal-p/cr-rs.htm
Also used for RV repairs too. Looks like it can be useful on board too. Pretty strong stuff.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

The best resource for getting that answer would be directly from the horses mouth.

Porta-Boat is still in business and does support the owners of their boats so why do a shade tree repair when you have that resource available to assist you in doing a 100% safe repair.
https://www.porta-bote.com/contact-us/


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## jvlassak (Oct 1, 2009)

Polypropylene is notoriously difficult to glue - if you can somehow oxidize the surface, glue will stick much better. I recently fixed a Walker Bay (polyethylene I believe, similar problem) by quickly running a torch over the surface (be careful not to melt or set the whole boat on fire), but it worked like a charm with regular construction adhesive.


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## bristol299bob (Apr 13, 2011)

SeaStar58 said:


> The best resource for getting that answer would be directly from the horses mouth.
> 
> Porta-Boat is still in business and does support the owners of their boats so why do a shade tree repair when you have that resource available to assist you in doing a 100% safe repair.
> https://www.porta-bote.com/contact-us/


I did call them. The only option they offer is to bring the bote to them and they will repair it (~$350 IIRC). They are in CA and I am NC so bringing it to them is not an option. So that leaves me to my own shade tree devices


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## Minnesail (Feb 19, 2013)

jvlassak said:


> Polypropylene is notoriously difficult to glue - if you can somehow oxidize the surface, glue will stick much better. I recently fixed a Walker Bay (polyethylene I believe, similar problem) by quickly running a torch over the surface (be careful not to melt or set the whole boat on fire), but it worked like a charm with regular construction adhesive.


Those are the instructions for HDPE (Starboard). Rough it up, clean it with a solvent, torch it, Scotch Weld.

No idea if that works for polypropylene.


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

I have a PB with a leak in the transom, it’s in Grenada so importing stuff like Eternabond ( the PB recommenced repair), is a problem. I did get a roll and brought it back to Grenada along with a bunch more stuff I needed for the boat. I’ve not tried it yet, I’ve bigger issues. 

First I didn’t find the guy at PB very helpful, I was kinda suprised at the attitude I got. I did buy a new PB because I freaking NEED a dingy. So I may end up with two. 

I did try 5200 and that worked for a while, but that seam gets all the sand and other crap jammed into it. Very difficult to clean out. 

I also tried melting/welding some other PE material into the crack. I used kitchen cutting board. Didn’t work, there was too much difference in melting temperatures between the two materials. 

I know they do weld black PE water pipes. It know nothing of the process. 

What DID work was Marine growth! Enough bottom growth and it would stop the leak. They should market the adhesive those organisms use, deadly tough stuff.


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

So here’s one idea, not recommendation mind you, IDEA. 

Start with patient #1. Get some sheet PE (onlinemetals.com) and cut it big enough to cover the holes plus enough to rivit. Do the same with some sheet aluminum, cut same size. Make a sandwich: PE/PB/AL. Use big washers on the outside. 

That’s the basic idea. Now maybe you can improve that. Put eterna tape on the inside of the rip and rivit the AL plate on the inside. Or eternatape inside and out with AL inside and out. 

The worst you can do is wreck a wrecked hull, maybe you can do some good. In the meantime you can think about, ponder if you will, how to fix the other PB.

Good luck.


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

Imho....

If youre going to rivet the porta bote, id use many rivets and largish backing and front plate/patch.
The polypro hull flex can be hell on mechanical fasteners.

The right, strong adhesive may be all that you need. Clamp it down and let it set up.

..edit..
If you cant find the polypro sheeting for thr transom, maybe look into epdm. This isnt a structural component of the boat...just seals.


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

If you have a link to a good adhesive for PE I’d love to have it please.

I sure haven’t been able to find one. That’s why I made the suggestions I did.


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

I havent researched it.
My guess is that you could also 'caulk/seal' seam leaks with the right stuff. Whatever right is...
Its a large flexible box kinda thing.....
Even the piano hinges flex and the transom overlapping L stock braces.

It breathes and is alive...

I really like mine...alot.


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## hellosailor (Apr 11, 2006)

I think there are PE welding kits available for things like water tanks, so I'd check with Raritan and others about that. That would fix the whole in the floor. 

There's also that as-sold-on-tv miracle repair tape...what's the name? That can be bought in rolls and sheets plenty large enough for that floor repair. Before I started making any holes or rivets, I'd try a generous sheet of that. 

And ask West Systems about their "G" epoxy, made for plastics. I know I've seen small epoxy lits that say they will do plastics including ABS and PE, both notoriously difficult.

On the transom hinge...Yeah, hinge. I'd try to repair that using the miracle repair tape (above) layered with stainless steel roof gutter or auto body repair tape. That's literally stainless steel, thin stock, with very tenacious adhesive. I think the combination of the two would withstand a lot of folding.

So you might very well get two salvaged boats out of this.


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## RegisteredUser (Aug 16, 2010)

Somewhere within the bowels of 3M, there should be a solution....


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

I just opened my brand new roll of eternabond tape. It's a sticky layer on one side and a paper backing on the other. If there is a way to peel off the paper I can't find it.

I had just gone on the web and searched for "etrrnabond" as directed by PB and bought what came up. Well duh, that was stupid I guess. Now looking at their web site I see there is a whole bunch of different "eternabond" tapes. Looking closely at the package I see I got "roof sealant tape", is that good or bad?

I'm guessing I should have ordered the alumabond tape. Not sure, no good guidance. Im thinking the aluminum would not work well on that two way bend seam where PBs typically leak.

It's sticky stuff, for sure. The only thing it won't stick to is a PE cutting board. Ug!



> With the 4 mil aluminum backing, EternaBond® AlumiBond is extremely tough and hard, perfect for holding back pressure in holding and gravity tanks. AlumiBond requires no UV protection, and can be painted to match the repaired surface color. AlumiBond is perfect for truck trailers that have been cut or are simply in need of resealing over seams and rivets. It is also perfect for storage tanks, steel and aluminum roofs, etc. AlumiBond comes in standard rolls 20 mil thick, 50' long, and 2", 3", 4", and 6" wide. Wider widths are available.





> Seal any rip, tear, or open seam in any surface with RoofSeal. RoofSeal is the best solution for leak repair. It is the choice of professional roof repair specialists, on virtually all roof types including EPDM, TPO, hypalon, most PVC, modified, all metals, even copper and Kynar coated metals, tile, wood, concrete, etc. RoofSeal even works great on land-fill and pond liners. Our specialized backing has proven to be UV stable, even after 19 years in full sunlight. Our MicroSealant has a built in primer which allows RoofSeal to bond with the surface it is installed on. Perfect for re-seaming all roofs, regardless of the material. RoofSeal makes a permanent water-tight seal.
> 
> Did you know RV roof seams require yearly maintenance? Use RoofSeal over factory roof seams one time and never do roof seam maintenance again! More than 25 high-end RV manufacturers now use EternaBond® products in the manufacturing of their dream machines to ensure their customers will truly have a weather tight, leak-proof RV.
> 
> Elongation factor greater than 700% guarantees RoofSeal will flex, expand and contract in all conditions! Can be installed to -20°F (with our EternaPrime). Sag rating of over 250°F.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

Welding Polypropylene requires the correct equipment and welding rod. Temperature, air flow and material control are critical in order to get a good weld so in a high stress area where there is a lot of vibration its not a job for amateurs as you can very easily create a very brittle weld that will be prone to failure. I can see why they would recommend bringing or shipping the boat back to their factory in order to have a "Like New" repair done by a professional in a highly controlled environment. I believe that Harbor Freight, Northern Tool and Eastwood Supply all have plastic welding equipment and Polypropylene welding rod available. Practice on scrap and expect to waste a good bit of rod while learning to make consistently good welds.

Eterna Bond Tape is OK for its intended purpose of roof repair however it is just butyl tape with a mylar or metal film cover and is prone to creeping. It really does not work that well in submerged locations unless you use the rough (web?) material with the separate primer and then cover it with an oil based paint nor does it adhere well to anything that's had any kind of silicone product (caulk, wax or spray) used on it. It also makes a terrible mess of anything that comes into contact with the edges where the butyl rubber adhesive is oozing out. The butyl adhesive will stay gummy for the life of the Eterna Bond and will rub off especially badly on warm sunny days.


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

Thanks for that feedback. I won't throw it out, I've nothing to loose by trying it on my PB. It might do some good if you put it on both sides of a hole so that the two sticky pieces touch.

I think this double stick stuff might do for the middle of the sandwich? 
PE/tape/PB/tape/AL. Don't know, thinking out loud. The description isn't real descriptive.



> DoubleStick MicroSealant Putty Tape is the RVer's friend. Use it to seal overlapping products, such as between skylight and vent flanges and the roof. Twist it into a rope and use it as a gasket, or for sealing around floor penetrations and penetrations in the bottom of the RV.


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## mbianka (Sep 19, 2014)

hpeer said:


> I just opened my brand new roll of eternabond tape. It's a sticky layer on one side and a paper backing on the other. If there is a way to peel off the paper I can't find it.
> 
> I had just gone on the web and searched for "etrrnabond" as directed by PB and bought what came up. Well duh, that was stupid I guess. Now looking at their web site I see there is a whole bunch of different "eternabond" tapes. Looking closely at the package I see I got "roof sealant tape", is that good or bad?
> 
> ...


I use the Eternabond roofing tape to repair the crack in the transom seam. They even had a color to match my PB. To remove the backing easily you take a piece in two hands and vigorously shake it back an forth on one of the ends and you should soon separate the backing from the glue side. Here is a video that shows how to separate the backing:


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

Interesting, the stuff I received, sounds like the same name, does NOT have a removable backing, the Mylar backing. And it does not stick to the layer below, the white.

I wish he showed over lapping the ends on adjacent sides, that would have told me something.

Sounds like you have to be real careful to order just exactly what you want. If you can figure out what you want.

My cardboard roll is marked on the inside Eternabond RoofSeal. The video never states exactly which Eternabond product he is using.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

If it does not have the clear backing then likely its not the self priming and you will need a bottle of the primer to activate it. Its not really permanent and lasts roughly 10 years especially when exposed to the sun after which you have to address getting the residue from the butyl rubber adhesive off the surface before you can reapply new which can be a very big chore. I have used EternaBond for over a decade and rue when it needs replacement. Its not a big deal on a 10 year roof since you will be ripping it all out every 10 years anyway or on a very small patch however on something permanent like Pylon or Fiberglass roof panels especially if runs longer than a few inches are involved that will not be the case. 

I will not use it where it will be rubbed against or stepped on. You will not be on very good terms with anyone if you step on EternaBond and track the butyl adhesive onto their decks, floors, carpets, etc. Get it on your clothes and it can make a big mess of the washer/dryer along with any other items washed or dried in the same load or anything you lean against or sit on.


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

I just went over the Eternabond site again and I can’t find any description of the removable Mylar liner on any of the products. I also read about the primer and that seems to have to do with the material you are sticking to not the tape. 

So I don’t know what’s up. Maybe I got a bad batch or I’ll find the Mylar when I unwind the tape roll further. 

But thanks for all the help. Much appreciated.


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## hpeer (May 14, 2005)

OK, once again I must eat crow. It DOES have the Mylar. They held down the end of the tape with clear packing tape, which held down the clear Mylar and the tape came right off. I saw it once I got outside into the sunshine. 

Anyway, I have made my repair. This the seam in the transome bladder all the way at the bottom at the keel. The material rips here due to bending. Now that I’ve “dug” into this I see they take precautions this rip does not leak. I hauled up real hard on the transome bladder, there was some additional white tape in this joint. It was not fully adhered. I pulled it out best I could, sanded the area, and framed a bit Eternabond in there. Not a lot of faith in that repair. 

On the outside I cleaned up the area around the rip, I scraped it pretty hard with a knife , cleaned it with acetone, let it dry, then applied the Eternabond over the rip. I did not try to cover anything except the bladder, I can’t see anything holding over the riveted seams and thought it would only make things worse. I pressed the dickens out of it. I feels likes it’s holding. 

I’ll be happy if I get 6 months, then I’ll repeat. I do have a bit of tape left over, 49’ 9”.


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

hpeer said:


> I just went over the Eternabond site again and I can't find any description of the removable Mylar liner on any of the products. I also read about the primer and that seems to have to do with the material you are sticking to not the tape.
> 
> So I don't know what's up. Maybe I got a bad batch or I'll find the Mylar when I unwind the tape roll further.
> 
> But thanks for all the help. Much appreciated.


The removable backing is not mylar its just a clear plastic sheet which you can see the soft grey butly rubber adhesive through or a waxed paper. The face, which will be the outer surface on the roll, may be a woven material, aluminum foil or a fairly sturdy mylar plastic in white or a whatever color you chose. The tape used for pond liners for example will usually have the woven face which will provide a better base for the oil paint than the mylar face. As the video indicated sometimes the backing that covers the adhesive may not come off easily and this can be made worse if the roll was left out in the sun for an extended period of time.

The primer activates the bond between the butyl rubber and the surface your working on which is especially important when working on dirty or oxidized surfaces or with materials that do not work well with adhesives.

Perhaps this more detailed video will help:


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## SeaStar58 (Feb 14, 2018)

hpeer said:


> OK, once again I must eat crow. It DOES have the Mylar. They held down the end of the tape with clear packing tape, which held down the clear Mylar and the tape came right off. I saw it once I got outside into the sunshine.
> 
> Anyway, I have made my repair. This the seam in the transome bladder all the way at the bottom at the keel. The material rips here due to bending. Now that I've "dug" into this I see they take precautions this rip does not leak. I hauled up real hard on the transome bladder, there was some additional white tape in this joint. It was not fully adhered. I pulled it out best I could, sanded the area, and framed a bit Eternabond in there. Not a lot of faith in that repair.
> 
> ...


Great that you got it figured out. Cleanliness and prep is critical and you do have to press hard to ensure the butyl adhesive gets into any imperfections in the surface so it won't wick. Be sure to store the remainder with the wax paper rings covering the sides and in the original container if possible. I will ensure that the roll stays clean by putting it in a large zip lock freezer bag before putting it back in the box. Be sure to store in a cool dry place to limit the adhesive oozing out the sides over time.


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## wrwakefield (Nov 18, 2015)

bristol299bob said:


> Courtesy of hurricane Florence I find myself in possession of two 10ft porta-botes, both damaged. I intend to make one usable bote from the parts.
> 
> Patient #1: has two tears/holes in the floor each about 4"x1"
> 
> ...


Years ago I installed a round deck plate [e.g., 3" in diameter] to the _outside_ of the hull [so the cover was almost flush with the outside of the hull...] of my hard dink because many were being 'borrowed' in the area I was cruising.

By removing the deck plate cover [and taking it with me on shore...] and running a locking cable through the hole I was able to secure my dink. [Even if they cut the lock they wouldn't get far...]

It worked great.

Depending upon the location of the tears in the hull of patient #1, might you be able to install appropriately sized deck plates? [Using butyl tape as the sealant, and machine screws with acorn nuts (or SS rivet-nuts) as the fasteners...]

Just an idea that I have first hand experience with- but not in a Porta-Boat...

Cheers! Bill


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## Suitcase (Jul 20, 2020)

I'm writing about repairing a hole in a Porta Bote transom. My PB is 15 years old and developed a hole at the base of the transom I repaired it with Dominion Sure Seal 1800-265-0790 semi rigid xpsapc/401391 and adhession promoter 42071 use promoter very sparingly.. I just returned fro two weeks fishing and repair worked great no leaks also Eternabond worked on torn transom skirt Firt time posting hope you get this to repair your PB mine has served us well for years


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## bristol299bob (Apr 13, 2011)

Suitcase said:


> I'm writing about repairing a hole in a Porta Bote transom. My PB is 15 years old and developed a hole at the base of the transom I repaired it with Dominion Sure Seal 1800-265-0790 semi rigid xpsapc/401391 and adhession promoter 42071 use promoter very sparingly.. I just returned fro two weeks fishing and repair worked great no leaks also Eternabond worked on torn transom skirt Firt time posting hope you get this to repair your PB mine has served us well for years


thanks for this update, Im curious: did you apply the Dominion Sure Seal to a a portion of the boat that flexes when you fold it? I'm wondering if this fix can withstand the flexing at the joints/hinges.


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## Suitcase (Jul 20, 2020)

bristol299bob said:


> thanks for this update, Im curious: did you apply the Dominion Sure Seal to a a portion of the boat that flexes when you fold it? I'm wondering if this fix can withstand the flexing at the joints/hinges.


Yes the back skirt that keeps the water from entering the boat between it and the transom. It showed no sign of ripping after two weeks of fishing. I was running up river for an hour most days


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