# Mercury outboard fuel line connector - UGH HELP



## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

I have a 4hp Mercury 4 stroke outboard.

I have gone through a few connectors that connect the fuel line to the motor.

The prong/barb/pin/thingy on the motor seems to damage the o-ring.

It leaks when priming/squeezing bulb. Then is difficult to start. It dies. Must reprime and start frequently.

Happens at the most inopportune time - ie docking or when in harms way.

UGH! I had no problems for five months with this motor and now I have gone through three connectors. What am I missing? Does anyone else have this problem? What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions?


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

Who is making the connector ? 

In the old days the o-ring could be changed I don't know if that is true on the new units


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## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

I have read online that some people have found o-ring replacements. West Marine makes the part... I'll try a different vendor.

Has this happened to you before?


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

I would NOT go aftermarket on that part get and original one as mine never leaked


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## dabnis (Jul 29, 2007)

Perhaps there is a small burr or rough spot on the motor side of the connection? I have the 6HP Tohatsu, same basic motor, I think? and only disconnect at the tank end, no leaks anywhere.

Paul T


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## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

Thanks so much..... I will try to find genuine mercury connectors.... does anyone else only disconnect from the tank and not the engine?

The only problem I see is that I disconnect at the end of my day and let the motor run the carburetor dry... Was told that was better to do... and leaving the whole hose attached I would imagine would take a long time for the engine to stop.


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## Alex W (Nov 1, 2012)

The Catalina 25 that I sail on has a Tohatsu motor as well (the 9.8). We only run the carb dry if the boat won't be used for a few weeks. That almost never happens and the original connector is holding up fine. The boat carries a spare fuel line, but has never used it. It is more important to keep fresh fuel and keep a stabilizer in it.

Disconnecting at just the tank end doesn't work to empty the carb. It starves the engine through suction more than by keeping fuel out of the carb. To prove this to yourself you can disconnect at only the tank end and run the engine until it dies (it takes a few minutes). Disconnect the fuel line at the engine and you'll still be able to turn it over and run it until the carb goes dry.

I do run my dinghy motor (Honda BF2A) carb dry when I'm done using it, because that one goes for months between uses. I also try to make sure that the fuel tank is run dry at the end of the year.


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## matthewwhill (Dec 10, 2012)

Well, I took it out today which was about 70 F. Pumped bulb, no choke, throttle on "restart" and it started, second pull. Wooo.

When I disconnected the o-ring was still intact... but I've been a lot more careful aligning it and not forcing it when I connect. It did look as though it was a bit deformed though... Still looking for a different manufacturer, the westmarine connectors seem flimsy. Will try leaving it connected and not running carb dry unless it will be a long time til I go out again.

ANOTHER QUESTION: My owners manual recommends flushing the water cooling circuit after use in salt or "dirty" water (lest it get plugged up I assume). What do folks on multi-day saltwater cruises do? Flush it every night? The manual says you need some special kind of tubing.... but what about a turkey baster or something lo tech like that?


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## tommays (Sep 9, 2008)

I never really worried about flushing my outboards as nice it would be as they have spent most of there lives on moorings without fresh water 

There is a flushing adaptor which allows you to use a hose if you cannot put the lower unit in a big enough bucket to flush it


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