# Deck mounted versus keel mounted masts



## VetMike (Mar 5, 2011)

Hello. I'm looking at several boats in the 35 to 40 foot range for Caribbean cruising. I've seen boats with both deck and keel stepped masts and am curious to hear opinions on the merits/deficits of each. Vigor states in his book that one should avoid deck stepped masts and gives a number of reasons.


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## davidpm (Oct 22, 2007)

I think you will find that there is no clear right or wrong way to do it. Keel stepped will let it more water. I think you will find that almost all keel stepped masts leak water into the bilge.
They are tricky to remove and reset with more risk to the interior during the process.
They limit cabin layout options.
They can provide a stub to attach a jury rig after a dis-masting.
It is possible that a failure can cause deck damage that can lead to sinking.

A deck stepped mast can be strong too it just has to be designed properly.

What specifically did vigor say he didn't like, which book?


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## killarney_sailor (May 4, 2006)

I agree that it is more a matter of sound engineering that anything. I prefer a keel-stepped mast, but that is likely just because I have had several boats that had them and am more comfortable with them - probably someone who had had deck-stepped masts would like them better.


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## hereandnow (Jan 25, 2012)

As mentioned by davidpm, this is an ongoing debate with both having their pros and cons, along with all the other you decisions you'll need to make when buying a new boat. 

I have had both deck and keel stepped with de-masting annually. When I was looking for my current boat deck/keel step mast was lower on the priority list, below speed, comfort, sound structure, ease of sailing, and med - low maintenance.

Whatever way you go I do suggest you make sure the deck around the step is sound with absolutely no moisture or else repairs could be very costly. For the keel step, similar advise if ply it is supporting the step - but repairs may be easier and less costly replacing this with a more solid material, perhaps stainless plate.


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## BarryL (Aug 21, 2003)

*I prefer deck stepped*

Hello,

I have had both. I prefer deck step. This is because:

Deck stepped is drier. I am constantly trying to adjust the boot on my keel stepped mast. It always leaks some water in when it rains and I hate that because I work hard to keep the bilge dry
Deck stepped mast is shorter (and cheaper) - my boat gets hauled each year, the rig taken down, and stored during the winter. I pay one price for the boat and another for the mast. A deck stepped mast is longer and that costs more $ (not much but you know how cheap sailors are).
Deck stepped is easier to step and unstep. Every spring and fall I worry abut the mast being stepped / unstepped. The mast wires need to get fished around and connected, etc. On my deck stepped boat there were simple plugs that made connecting easy. Also, there are no wedges to play around with.

Just my $02

Barry


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## VetMike (Mar 5, 2011)

Thanks! In Vigor's book "The Seaworthy Offshore Sailboat", Chapter Two, point 44; he gives two points to a deck stepped mast which is less offshore worthy than keel stepped but no further explanation that I could find. I'm re-reading the book now to re-find his discussion on this. I do appreciate all the help!


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## Rockter (Sep 11, 2006)

Deck-stepped for me.
Easier to lift the mast, methinks. 
I have never had a keel-stepped mast.
I should miss that beautiful stainless sampson post dominating the cabin if i did.
As for leaks. My ship has always leaked so it doesn't make any difference, really.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

I personally strongly prefer a deck-stepped mast over a keel stepped mast but once again this is an area where opinions can differ widely. There is no right answer here. There is a contingent that thinks that the only proper way to step a mast is on the keel. There is a logic to that opinion but it is a logic that can be engineered around and which comes out of a historical context that is less relevant with modern materials and design approaches. 

I would like to start this discussion with the structural basics, the base of a mast has a vertical and horizontal thrust to it that tries to push it down through the bottom of the boat and also sideward off of the mast step. In normal conditions the down load is several times greater than the side load. Beyond the loads imparted to the boat, there is also the issue of the loads that happen internally in a mast. When you look at the structure of a mast it is really a truss standing on end but it does not completely act as truss because the components of a truss are not supposed to have bending loads on them. Ideally the loads in the mast are primarily axial (acting along the length of the mast) rather than in bending (acting perpendicular to the long axis of the mast). But because of the continuous attachment of mainsails and the point loadings of intermediate control lines like vangs, pole lifts and the like, masts do have fairly large bending loads imparted into them. The two most often cited reasons for keel stepped masts being considered stronger is the way that the bending loads (moments) are distributed within the mast itself and the way that the mast imparts its loads into the boat. 

One of the goals in designing a mast is to create a configuration that, within reason, reduces the size of the bending moments within a mast. In a general sense, the greater the number of panels (segments between shrouds and other supports) the smaller the moments within the mast would tend to be. In the days when single spreader rigs were most common a keel-stepped mast added one extra panel, the segment between the mast partners at the deck and the keel. This has become less significant as bigger boats have routinely gone to multiple spreader rigs (adding more panels above the deck) and to a lesser extent as moment connections at the deck are being employed on deck mounted mast steps. 

In terms of the way that the mast imparts its loads into the boat, masts are generally located in the area of the cabin trunk and because of the shape of the cabin (i.e. the deck folds up at the cabin side and horizontal again at the coach roof) this area, if the deck is not engineered for side loads it is more prone to lateral flexing than would be the keel. One idea behind a keel-stepped mast being stronger is that with a keel stepped the mast is not superimposing loads into the deck. 

In reality, this ideal is rarely accomplished for a number of reasons. First of all, if the mast is not tied to the deck or the deck tied to the keel near the mast, either with a tie rod or with a tie from the mast to the deck and a connection from the mast to the keel, the downward force of the mast working in opposition to the upward loads of the shrouds can pull the hull together like a bow and arrow lifting the deck and separating the joint between bulkheads and the deck. You sometimes see this type of separated bulkheads on inexpensive or early fiberglass boats with keel stepped masts. 

Not only do keel stepped masts impart vertical loads into the deck (through the ties mentioned above) but they also typically end up imparting side loads as well (they must if they are going to reduce the moments in the mast as mentioned above). This added side load when combined with the multiple panels above deck greatly reduces the structural advantages of a keel-stepped mast to next to zero assuming that a deck-stepped mast is properly engineered, and of course that is a big ‘if’!

There are several things that I consider critical to engineering a deck stepped mast properly. Primary is having a properly engineered jack post below the mast to take the vertical loads of the mast. (A jack post is a vertical member that carries the vertical loads of the mast to the keel.) My preference is to have an aluminum jack post rather than a wooden one but a wooden post can work as well. My preference would also be to design the jack post, mast foot and mast step to create a moment connection between the base of the mast and the top of the jack post, so that the jack post could still act as an extra mast panel. Then the deck and interior structure need to be designed to distribute side loads. Ideally, there should be a bulkhead or ring frame adjacent to the mast that can take the side loads and distribute them into the hull. These elements are obviously more complex to engineer and build properly than simply having a fat spot on the keel for the mast step to land on. 


My biggest objections to keel stepped masts are to the purely practical. Keel stepped masts with internal halyards mean that there is always water in the bilge. This water comes in at halyard boxes and other openings in the mast and there really is nothing you can do will stop that. Second, it is way harder to step and un-step a keel-stepped mast making the boat more subject to damage in the process. Beyond that if you loose a mast (I have lost two in my life) it is better in my opinion to loose a deck stepped mast because a keel-stepped mast is more likely to damage the deck when it fails and a deck-stepped mast is easier to clear away. The keel stepped mast for offshore use advocates point out that if you lose a keel stepped mast you are more likely to end up with a bigger stump after the mast fails. I am not sure that that is always the case. For example with a deck stepped mast there are cases where you are able to tow the rig as a drogue until things quiet down enough to rig a jury rig. I am not sure what you do when the boat is being beaten to death by the upper portion of a mast that has buckled 20 feet off the deck at the spreaders. . 

As mentioned above, my preferred set up is a deck stepped mast that has a welded flange on its bottom that is through bolted through the deck into the top flange of a structural aluminum jack post. If the mast buckles it can be unbolted and jettisoned, or kept up partially by the moment connection at its base. My current boat has a keel stepped mast. It is my intent to pull this mast and have it modified to that arrangement if I ever go offshore with her.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

VetMike said:


> Thanks! In Vigor's book "The Seaworthy Offshore Sailboat", Chapter Two, point 44; he gives two points to a deck stepped mast which is less offshore worthy than keel stepped but no further explanation that I could find. I'm re-reading the book now to re-find his discussion on this. I do appreciate all the help!


As others have said, with proper design, either should be fine. There may be some benefits for each, but either, cared for properly should get you around.

As far as Vigor, this boat cirlced the earth 3 times non-stop. Holds the worlds record- and a deck stepped mast:
About Project Endeavour: Refitting the Parry Endeavour


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## patrscoe (May 9, 2011)

Jeff_H,

"my preferred set up is a deck stepped mast that has a welded flange on its bottom that is through bolted through the deck into the top flange of a structural aluminum jack post."

Are you saying that the jack posts has a top flange plate located (height) to the underside of the fiberglass cabin deck and then you have another flange plate with a step for the mast to seat in on the cabin deck, provide a solid spacer within the existing hole where the mast use to go through the cabin deck (not fiberglassing the opening but a solid metal spacer and sandwich the two plates via throughbolt. That's what I am planning to do within the next two years but not sure if that is what you are referring to. I am dealing with a engineer and there is some concern about lateral - horizontal load or movement at the flange and possible reinforcing the fiberglass around this area but I can't see that much movement, while not any more then what you would have with a keel step mast. 

Any additional thoughts on this?


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

That is basically what I had in mind. My intent was to build up the strength of the deck below the mast and insert and glass in an aluminum spacer between the king post and the above deack bearing plate.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Jeff.. do you think you would be as easily able to induce the required prebend with a deck stepped set up (esp on your style of boat?)

Otherwise I too prefer the deckstep primarily for the potentially dry bilge..


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

_"Do you think you would be as easily able to induce the required prebend with a deck stepped set up (esp on your style of boat?)"_

Ron,

I do think so. The key is getting a moment connection at the deck between the base of the mast and the king post. That was how the Laser 28's were built which has a very similar rig to my boat.

Jeff


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## -OvO- (Dec 31, 2011)

Do you really want the fiberglass around the mast to be stronger? Not more flexible? It sounds to me like this bolted-together mast is really just a keel-stepped mast with slots cut in it that a sheet of material goes through in order to keep water out of the boat.

I'm (obviously) not a nautical engineer, but it seems to me that you want the fiberglass right around the mast to be more flexible - like the boot around the keel-stepped mast -- to prevent any horizontal movement of the mast from damaging the "real" deck.


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

Having had both, I prefer deck stepped masts, for the reasons given. I use a heavy plate arch connected to the chines to prevent the mast support from intruding into the interior design. This arch is far stronger than any extension of the mast would be.
When I bury the side decks, the lee shrouds don't even slacken , in the least.
Those who build my boats with a keel stepped mast, eventually go for a deck stepped mast, when re-rigging.


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## CapnBilll (Sep 9, 2006)

The arguments against a deck stepped mast that I have heard primarily go to a deck stepped mast with no support post, IE arch, or thickened deck to support the downforce of the mast. In these water intrusion of core material, or arch can weaken mast base to dangerous levels. Second more of a stub to rig makeshift mast, I'm not sure I follow that one, with a wooden mast maybe.

Not having tried to rig a makeshift mast on either types of boats, I'm not sure how it would work, but IF I had to I would start with using my cordless drill to drill holes in the base of whichever is longer, remains of mast, or boom, then attaching stainless screws to el brackets. With a keel stepped mast assuming you still have a cabin top, the mast will remain upright while you rig shrouds, but you will have a large hole left from the diameter change of original mast to makeshift mast.

With a deck stepped mast you would prerig shrouds first, then screw el-brackets to old plate on deck leaving your boat in original configuration with a shorter mast.

I my opinion is lashing a mast fragment to a stub of a mast would be an excercise in futility, try lashing two sticks together and then put a side load on them.

Generally speaking a keel stepped mast might be less vulnerable to dismasting, but a deck stepped mast would be easier to repair at sea, in both cases raising a mast in a rolling sea in a single masted vessel is going to be problematic.

I would say even in calm seas raising a mast of any size would be not only impossible, but extremely dangerous.

It may not be very seaman like for me, but if dismasted, and engine failed I would call for help, if dismasted and engine working, (or fixable), I would motor to nearest landmass.


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## jackdale (Dec 1, 2008)

CapnBilll said:


> Not having tried to rig a makeshift mast on either types of boats, I'm not sure how it would work, but IF I had to I would start with using my cordless drill to drill holes in the base of whichever is longer, remains of mast, or boom, then attaching stainless screws to el brackets. With a keel stepped mast assuming you still have a cabin top, the mast will remain upright while you rig shrouds, but you will have a large hole left from the diameter change of original mast to makeshift mast.
> 
> With a deck stepped mast you would prerig shrouds first, then screw el-brackets to old plate on deck leaving your boat in original configuration with a shorter mast.
> 
> ...


here's how


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Jeff_H said:


> I personally strongly prefer a deck-stepped mast over a keel stepped mast but once again this is an area where opinions can differ widely.


I mainly quoted the above to give the link back, I deleted most of Jeff's post.

Jeff_H, I want to state that I greatly admire your posts, and make a point to read all that I see. You personify the old saying of "he's forgotten more than I'll ever know". You also write well, express yourself clearly, and don't try to talk over our heads. You are interested in imparting knowledge, not showing off. Thank you for taking the time to educate us and share some of your insights.

I'm a novice in comparison to many, but I have had both types of mast steps. I will never own another keel stepped mast. The amount of water that streams down a mast during wind and rain is incredible, lots of it goes into the bilge with a keel stepped mast no matter how you try to keep it out. I've had one dismasting with a keel step, and it tore the cabin top as it came down. I was able to limp home under sail, using the boom to "sort of" hold up the main.

Raising and lowering a deck stepped mast is so much easier and safer that there is no comparison.


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## Don L (Aug 8, 2008)

I have had both and like the deck stepped for being less wet as others have stated.

Some people feel the keel stepped is stronger, but I doubt it being im portant even if it is.

This is just another thing people spend too much time thinking about because they somehow think they know more than the boat builder.


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## sneuman (Jan 28, 2003)

+ 1 that it's a matter of opinion. I certainly wouldn't shy away from another deck-stepped mast (I have had both). 

I was dismasted in the deck-stepped mast, which had nothing to do with the way the mast was engineered. In that case, it probably wouldn't have mattered which method of "attachment" I had.

Having said that, though, if a rig failure is something less than catastrophic, you're probably better off with the keel-stepped mast.


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## INMA (Sep 13, 2011)

The difference between the deck stepped mast and a keel stepped mast goes back to the structural decisions made by the yacht designer.

The keel stepped mast is more rigid and uses lower stress levels resulting in a robust and stable system.

The advantage of the deck stepped mast is it can be more flexible, with the corresponding increases in stress and potential for more failures.

Technology and the experience of making production yachts where the deck stepped masts are thoroughly trialed before the design is sold on mass have changed the design and operating environment.

Racing yachts have provided cruising yachts with huge technical improvements in a very short period. 

A few decades ago, the mast and standing rigging was designed to be a fixed structure and the sails were added to it then adjusted.

Now yacht design balances the whole system including hull rig and sails so they work in harmony so the yacht works efficiently in real sailing conditions.

Anyone who has sailed a modern yacht with a flexible fractional rig will understand the need for sail changes as wind conditions change are becoming less often. Modern fractional rigs which are bent and tuned for varying conditions are efficient, reliable and easy to handle.

There may be room for more rigid rigs on cruising applications but the greater understanding of yacht structure means there is less need or value for keel stepped masts. Decked stepped masts have lots of advantages and keel stepped masts do not offer any advantage on newer designs.

There are issues with lighter rigs such as maintaining rig tension to hold furlers straight on a flexible mast. Its all compromises.


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## KIVALO (Nov 2, 2011)

Interesting thread so far. I'm not a too familiar with a reinforced arch design. Would someone elaborate a bit on those?
Thanks in advance.

Brad
s/v KIVALO


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

Thank you so much for the very kind words. A lot of kind people have helped me throughout my sailing career and I try to return the favor when I can.

Jeff



skygazer said:


> I mainly quoted the above to give the link back, I deleted most of Jeff's post.
> 
> Jeff_H, I want to state that I greatly admire your posts, and make a point to read all that I see. You personify the old saying of "he's forgotten more than I'll ever know". You also write well, express yourself clearly, and don't try to talk over our heads. You are interested in imparting knowledge, not showing off. Thank you for taking the time to educate us and share some of your insights.
> 
> ...


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Jeff_H said:


> Thank you so much for the very kind words. A lot of kind people have helped me throughout my sailing career and I try to return the favor when I can.
> 
> Jeff


And you do a superb job!


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## Brent Swain (Jan 16, 2012)

A bendy mast , while having it's advantage on a racing yacht , is a liability on a cruising boat. A mast failure in a racing boat is nowhere near as dangerous as a mast failure in mid Pacific, where it could mean months of slow sailing under a jury rig , while running out of food and water. The much greater consequences of mast failure on a cruising yacht are just to great to make a bendy mast worth the risk.
Some racing boats have been showing up at races with several bendy masts on a trailer , expecting to break one or two. No offshore cruising boat could afford to be that cavalier about rig safety.
It was interesting , tho, to see a Kiwi boat win the America's cup with a mast as stiff as a brick Brings into question the value of a bendy mast.
My mast arch is a half inch steel plate on edge under a steel deck; no chance of any water ingression.


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## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

I've had both and have had a total dismasting with the deck stepped mast. A keel stepped mast most like would have failed also under the circumstances. My current keel stepped mast does take in a little water but it seems a little more stable in a seaway. I like the fact that I can adjust the rake on the keel stepped mast which wasn't possible with the deck stepped ( I race). I guess it is to each his own.

PS- For any of those who think you might be able to salvage your mast during a storm think again. I can see saving your mast when it falls down due to a rigging failure in moderate conditions but in a seaway with high winds and waves it is dangerous at best. I can tell you, from experience, that a broken mast over the side with sails submerged and the rig pounding on your hull is a powerful motivator to cut everything away as quick as possible. I can also tell you it is not easy to do especially at night with the boat pitching and rolling. When that mast goes and you are beam to the wind you really don't care what kind of mast you have. Your only consideration is how fast you can get rid of it.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Sanduskysailor said:


> I can tell you, from experience, that a broken mast over the side with sails submerged and the rig pounding on your hull is a powerful motivator to cut everything away as quick as possible. I can also tell you it is not easy to do especially at night with the boat pitching and rolling. When that mast goes and you are beam to the wind you really don't care what kind of mast you have. Your only consideration is how fast you can get rid of it.


You raise an important concern. In the (good?) old days they kept an axe handy to cut away rigging. I'm not sure what the best tool choices would be with today's steel cables and metal masts. Any suggestions or thoughts of what you wished you'd had on hand during your dreadful experience? I've always found steel cable to be incredibly difficult to cut, I don't know what the correct tool for it is.


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## sneuman (Jan 28, 2003)

Sanduskysailor said:


> I've had both and have had a total dismasting with the deck stepped mast. A keel stepped mast most like would have failed also under the circumstances. My current keel stepped mast does take in a little water but it seems a little more stable in a seaway. I like the fact that I can adjust the rake on the keel stepped mast which wasn't possible with the deck stepped ( I race). I guess it is to each his own.
> 
> PS- For any of those who think you might be able to salvage your mast during a storm think again. I can see saving your mast when it falls down due to a rigging failure in moderate conditions but in a seaway with high winds and waves it is dangerous at best. I can tell you, from experience, that a broken mast over the side with sails submerged and the rig pounding on your hull is a powerful motivator to cut everything away as quick as possible. I can also tell you it is not easy to do especially at night with the boat pitching and rolling. When that mast goes and you are beam to the wind you really don't care what kind of mast you have. Your only consideration is how fast you can get rid of it.


Agreed, my dismasting was in very extreme conditions and there was no choice, really but to cut. I did manage to save the boom, however.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

skygazer said:


> You raise an important concern. In the (good?) old days they kept an axe handy to cut away rigging. I'm not sure what the best tool choices would be with today's steel cables and metal masts. Any suggestions or thoughts of what you wished you'd had on hand during your dreadful experience? I've always found steel cable to be incredibly difficult to cut, I don't know what the correct tool for it is.


We carry a pair of bolt cutters and a hacksaw, but I keep meaning to source some good carbide blades for the hacksaw.


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

skygazer said:


> You raise an important concern. In the (good?) old days they kept an axe handy to cut away rigging. I'm not sure what the best tool choices would be with today's steel cables and metal masts. Any suggestions or thoughts of what you wished you'd had on hand during your dreadful experience? I've always found steel cable to be incredibly difficult to cut, I don't know what the correct tool for it is.


Yachting Monthly has some great videos- here is one on demasting:
YachtingMonthly's Channel - YouTube


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## Sanduskysailor (Aug 1, 2008)

A couple of things we learned. My incident happened at night. We got caught in a microburst on Lake Erie. Winds went from 18 to 70knots instantly and remained there for about 20 minutes. The infamous Lake Erie confused steep 4 foot chop was a bigger problem. A hacksaw is useless in these conditions as the boat goes abeam to the waves. The boat will pitch and alternately roll pretty violently in these conditions. No way you can get a hacksaw to work especially at night. We lost the whole rig and the boom as the boom was attached to a rigid vang which was twisted causing it to lock tightly. Be mindful that the rig was pounding on the hull so there was a sense of urgency. Bolt cutters would work for the rig with some difficulty because of the boat motion and movement of the shrouds. I wish I had a Holmatro EXC 14H. A Felco 12 cutter might work also which I now have. As it was, my racing crew of 5 was pretty handy. We had Johnson Wrap pins Wrap Pins, Velcro Locking Wrap 5/16in,3/8in (2) Johnson Marine on the turnbuckles so we just unscrewed the turnbuckles and and cut the hitech halyards with a sharp serrated knife. The biggest problem was the headstay which had an aluminum Harken foil. Not easy to cut especially when it is moving. My wife ended up hanging over the bow holding the locknut with a wrench while another crew stood over her and undid the bolt with another wrench. Sounds easy except it was night, the boat pitching, and my wife getting dunked a couple of times. That's not something you want to do on a regular basis. Bowpersons are hard to replace.


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

casey1999 said:


> Yachting Monthly has some great videos- here is one on demasting:
> YachtingMonthly's Channel - YouTube


Remind me never to let these guys borrow my boat!!


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## skygazer (Sep 3, 2011)

Sanduskysailor said:


> A couple of things we learned. My incident happened at night. We got caught in a microburst on Lake Erie. Winds went from 18 to 70knots instantly and remained there for about 20 minutes. The infamous Lake Erie confused steep 4 foot chop was a bigger problem. A hacksaw is useless in these conditions as the boat goes abeam to the waves. The boat will pitch and alternately roll pretty violently in these conditions. No way you can get a hacksaw to work especially at night. We lost the whole rig and the boom as the boom was attached to a rigid vang which was twisted causing it to lock tightly. Be mindful that the rig was pounding on the hull so there was a sense of urgency. Bolt cutters would work for the rig with some difficulty because of the boat motion and movement of the shrouds. I wish I had a Holmatro EXC 14H. A Felco 12 cutter might work also which I now have. As it was, my racing crew of 5 was pretty handy. We had Johnson Wrap pins Wrap Pins, Velcro Locking Wrap 5/16in,3/8in (2) Johnson Marine on the turnbuckles so we just unscrewed the turnbuckles and and cut the hitech halyards with a sharp serrated knife. The biggest problem was the headstay which had an aluminum Harken foil. Not easy to cut especially when it is moving. My wife ended up hanging over the bow holding the locknut with a wrench while another crew stood over her and undid the bolt with another wrench. Sounds easy except it was night, the boat pitching, and my wife getting dunked a couple of times. That's not something you want to do on a regular basis. Bowpersons are hard to replace.


Thank you for the reply. On the video the hacksaw looked good, but the cable was well supported on the boat, and the collar held the small wires from fraying and moving. Perhaps there was a lot of tension also, helping it to part and clear the blade. I know from experience that the hacksaw will normally bind and drag and have difficulties if there is no supporting collar. I've never owned cable cutters, but both the straight manual cutters and the slower but easier hydraulic cutters looked like the thing to have. The explosive cutter looked too hard to use in bad conditions. I hate the idea of using wrenches and undoing nuts in an emergency.

I wouldn't want my wife hanging off there getting dunked!


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## casey1999 (Oct 18, 2010)

skygazer said:


> Remind me never to let these guys borrow my boat!!


Yea their videos are pretty funny. Here we are babying our boats and these gues go out and beat the hell out of theirs, and that boat holds up well. There is on vid where they roll the boat to see what a capsize would be like.


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## fallard (Nov 30, 2009)

patrscoe:

Since your boat had a keel-stepped mast, I would have thought your boat had an aluminum casting with a flange to reinforce the hole in deck and distribute the side loads from your original mast partners. If not, the Tiara folks may have molded a lip to catch the mast boot, in either case they must have factored in lateral loads on your coachroof.

If you bolt your deck-stepped mast to the deck (via your sandwich?) you might check to make sure your coachroof is securely attached to a bulkhead near the mast or that the compression/jack post is securely bolted to the original mast step. As indicated in an earlier post, there is the possibility of the coachroof lifting if it isn't otherwise constrained. My boat (keel-stepped) has a SS stay that connects to a through-bolted padeye on my cast aluminum flange (on deck) at one end and to a bulkhead that is just behind the mast at the other end.

I'd also make sure the original hole in the coachroof is properly waterproofed if you have internal halyards. And then there are the electrical penetrations and cleaning up the old mast step.

It sure looks like your are going to a lot of effort to convert your rig!

It sounds like you are going through a lot of effort to convert to the deck-stepped configuration. You must have a strong feeling about this!


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## VetMike (Mar 5, 2011)

Wow. I got a lot more than I expected! I can now go out looking at boats with a much better understanding of the pros and cons of each. Thanks everyone.


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