# Sikaflex 291 LOT vs. 3M 4000 UV



## Arclight (Nov 20, 2009)

I need to fill an 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap between my topsides and the teak toe rail. I'm considering using Sikaflex 291 LOT or 3M 4000 UV. Coments? TIA


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Why would you use a sealant to fill a gap? What is the cause of the gap? Do you have photos of the gap? Filling a gap is often better suited to something like a thickened epoxy, rather than a sealant or caulk.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

Neither. I'd use Sikaflex 295UV or a Polysulfide like 3M 101 if you can still find it, since it has been discontinued. Life Calk is also a polysulfide. UV4000 bonds at about 300 PSI which is way to much IMHO just for gap filling as you will eventually need to reomve it and re-do it..

Dog is correct though in questioning what the gap is from and for as to which material is best suited?


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

Maine Sail said:


> ...a Polysulfide like 3M 101 if you can still find it, since it has been discontinued...


Argh, so that's the reason I can't find it easily. I really like my 3M 101. It doesn't turn yellow, and stays pretty darn soft for a good while. So is Life Calk the last of the polysulfides now? (Sorry not trying to hijack the thread)


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

josrulz said:


> Argh, so that's the reason I can't find it easily. I really like my 3M 101. It doesn't turn yellow, and stays pretty darn soft for a good while. So is Life Calk the last of the polysulfides now? (Sorry not trying to hijack the thread)


Unless you can find a source who sells the Thiokol stuff in small quantities, yes. Sadly the Life Calk has never held up for me or weathered quite the same as 101 did. Not a bad product but still not 101...


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## Stillraining (Jan 11, 2008)

Life Calk will yellow as well...Im not a happy camper about the 101 deal.


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

So what's the shelf life in an up-opened container? There's still _some _3M 101 left around....

And any alternative's for general deck hardware bedding, where butyl tape isn't appropriate (like where some adhesive is needed)? Man, I'll miss my 101...


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

josrulz said:


> And any alternative's for general deck hardware bedding, where butyl tape isn't appropriate (like where some adhesive is needed)? Man, I'll miss my 101...


Which deck fittings need an adhesive?


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

Maine Sail said:


> Which deck fittings need an adhesive?


We have a few items, for instance our chainplate covers and teak handrails (56 holes), that are unfortunately screwed into the deck. Though I would prefer them not be screwed, there is no possibility of making them through-bolted, due to the structure/layout of the boat beneath the deck.

Based on I think your recommendation Maine Sail, I use butyl tape whenever the hardware is through-bolted and doesn't need the additional adhesive properties, and I've been using 3M 101 when that's not the case.

-J


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Joz—

So what is the deal with the gap???


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## josrulz (Oct 15, 2006)

sailingdog said:


> Joz-
> 
> So what is the deal with the gap???


Sorry SD, this isn't my thread. It's Arclight's thread...

Arclight, very sorry to hi-jack your thread. I didn't mean to do so!


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Oops... Hey Arclight- What's the deal with the gap? Do you have photos of it.



josrulz said:


> Sorry SD, this isn't my thread. It's Arclight's thread...
> 
> Arclight, very sorry to hi-jack your thread. I didn't mean to do so!


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## Arclight (Nov 20, 2009)

Thanks the feedback! Unless one of you can come up with a real horror story, I've decided to go with the 3M 4000 UV polyether as it, unlike the polysulfides, is non yellowing and very UV resistant...it cures to a gloss white (or black). It's paintable and will withstand the inevitable dimensional changes between the teak toe rail and the hull. Unlike 5200 It can be dismantled.


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## Arclight (Nov 20, 2009)

Thanks the feedback! Unless one of you can come up with a real horror story, I've decided to go with the 3M 4000 UV polyether as it, unlike the polysulfides, is non yellowing and very UV resistant...it cures to a gloss white (or black). It's paintable and will withstand the inevitable dimensional changes between the teak toe rail and the hull. Unlike 5200 It can be dismantled.


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## Maine Sail (Jan 6, 2003)

Arclight said:


> Thanks the feedback! Unless one of you can come up with a real horror story, I've decided to go with the 3M 4000 UV polyether as it, unlike the polysulfides, is non yellowing and very UV resistant...it cures to a gloss white (or black). It's paintable and will withstand the inevitable dimensional changes between the teak toe rail and the hull. Unlike 5200 It can be dismantled.


I would argue that UV 4000 IS yellowing and have had it yellow on me in less than one season. Sikaflex 295 yellows much less than UV 4000, in my experience with both products.

Also polysulfides have been the standard seam compound for teak decks for years specifically because of its excellent flexibilty and UV durability.

I don't know where or why you thought polysulfides do not hold up to UV? 3M 101 was and is very, very resistant to yellowing..

I have been very disappointed with UV 4000 in the yellowing department and with 3M's claims that it does not yellow.


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## Arclight (Nov 20, 2009)

Thanks for the report, Maine Sail...I used BoatLife for my chainplates two years ago and the bit that pushed out from under the covers has yellowed and gotten chalky. I'll give 3M a call to see if they have any test data.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Still have to ask why there is a gap and why you think it needs filling...


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