# How best to deal with Oregon coastal waters



## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

At some point I may be boating down from Vancouver BC to Mexico and beyound. An area I don't look forward to is the Oregon coastal waters with large rollers and fog. 

Is it smarter to head down, lets say ten miles off the coast and just get it over with, or is it smarter to head out much further west, let's say at least 50 miles or more, to avoid the coastal waters?

I would think the best timing would be around the end of June, but I'm open to hearing other timings and the reasoning.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

It really depends on the wind and weather forecast. Being further off shore is generally give you more options and be a bit safer, since most of the ports along the PNW coast are relatively poor choices if the weather gets nasty. Most will have serious issues with safe entry if the weather goes bad. Bad wewather is generally much easier to deal with when you have more searoom rather than less.


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## jrd22 (Nov 14, 2000)

rsn- I have contemplated the same trip (I have not done it myself and would also like to hear from those who have) and I think I would choose the near shore route(10+- nm) for the following reasons. As you are probably aware, the weather predictions here in the NW are about 50/50 at best and a lot of fronts seem to develop into hard blows, especially on the coast, without a lot of warning. I don't know what size, or type of boat you have but for me in my 34' I would want to be able to decide to go in if all of a sudden it sounded like things were going to get bad. 50 or 100 miles offshore makes for a long trip in and gives things a lot more time to get serious (I know, I sound like a wimp, I prefer to think of it as having a strong sense of self preservation). I would definitely rather be in port somewhere than out in 40 knot winds and 20'+ seas for two or three days (been there, done that, not fun anymore). My youngest son crewed on a trip from Neah Bay to San Francisco in a 53' schooner during the summer, they ended up with two cracked masts after deciding to just carry on into a rough stretch of weather(personally I'm not sure the masts didn't have problems before they left knowing the owner-another story). Even only being 10 nm offshore the options are sometimes few and far between on the Oregon coast, so you may still end up having to stay out, but at least there would be a possible option. As far as time of year, you are probably right about June, any earlier and the weather is too unpredictable and any later there probably won't be any wind, and fog in August. September might also be a good choice. John


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## camaraderie (May 22, 2002)

jrd...I only know what I've read about the Oregon coast and I think your plan sounds reasonable. I would emphasize a couple of things:
1. Weather, Weather, Weather ...i.e. have redundant weather gathering methods aboard and check for the latest every few hours. Leave port *only* with a good forecast weather window that will get you past your first put in harbor with plenty of leeway in case of a mechanical breakdown. 
2. Even though you will be going coastal...prepare the boat as if you were going to sea...nothing can be left to chance and all safety equipment should be inspected and in good working order.

At least you'll be heading with the current!


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## jrd22 (Nov 14, 2000)

Cam, both good points, couldn't agree more. John


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

I did that trip in 1986 ( - Gawd - is that really over 20 years ago??) My advice would be to go offshore.

Mind you this was in the pre GPS days so that's a factor. My skipper's plan had been to follow a depth contour and use radio beacons to fix positions along the way. Off the Washington coast this worked for a while but left us too close inshore even at that. However we managed to slide down the coast alright. 

It was when mechanical trouble developed and an unscheduled stop at Astoria (over the infamous Columbia Bar) was called for that I realized that this skipper was not terribly well prepared - no charts! Luckily conditions were benign and the bar crossed without incident, however there was a near grounding on the shallows until we noticed just where the channel really was. Had the weather turned nasty there would have been no entering that harbour, and the same goes for most harbours in Southwestern Washington and Oregon as well.

Anyway, long story short, poor navigation techniques left us an unknown distance off, in worsening weather at night, most charted radio beacons apparently off-line. We motored a great deal, or dealt with one system packing 40+ knots winds (when we thought maybe we were near Cape St George on the Oregon/California border but really didn't know for sure - not a good feeling)

Clearly not a good experience - it kind of put me off offshore sailing for a while.

In hindsight and with much more experience now, as I recall, the weather 2-300 miles off was stronger but more consistent and we would have had a better trip. Our difficulties were related to the long hours of motoring - which would not have been required further out.

But again, today's navigation aids are miles ahead of what we were trying to do, and with luck with the weather and inshore route may work - but don't depend on being able to use any of the few "havens" along the way when it gets snotty.

I know some experienced offshore sailors that detest that particular leg of the trip south - or back home north for that matter. A common float plan from Cabo to BC, for example, is via Hawaii.


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## captainchetco (Mar 18, 2007)

I live in Brookings, Oregon, and have transited the Oregon and Washington coasts many times in the last 20 years, last being 3 transits during 2006 2 in a trawler, both ways and one in my Sailboat which is currently in Belllingham, WA. 

The big thing to watch off OR & WA is the Pacific High. It usually sets up in May or June, and moves out in Sept or Oct. Right now, its there, but a bit weak. 

When the Pacific High is firmly in place, heading south becomes quite easy as there is a North to Northwest wind, and a favorable 1-2 knot current in the close offshore (3 to15+/-miles). The swells can be big, but have a long period, so its mostly an elevator ride.

I would rate the ports in Oregon for small boats in order as Newport, Brookings, Coos Bay, and Columbia River. There are several other ports, of varying complexity, depending on weather. The entrances to Newport and Brookings are nearly North-South and reasonably protected. They are rarely closed. The Columbia River can go from benign to raucus with a change of tide, particularly when the river is high. With a sailboat such as mine of limited speed, I always time entering on the flood, never on the ebb.

In summary, sailing the Oregon and Washington coasts require using your head; pay attention to the weather. With the Pacific High in place, storms other than the occasional squall or very rare "clear air" storm, do not come up suddenly. If the PacHigh has retreated south or disappeared, storms can come up at any time. During most times, a 3 day advance forcast is fairly reliable.; 10 days is just speculation. 
When heading south, I stay inside the major shipping lanes (essentially point to point) and ride the south flowing current and Northwesterly winds. During crab season, pots are rarely outside 60 fathoms. I put in at Newport and Brookings, unless we schedule in the Columbia River. Sailing off these two state coasts are spectacularily beautiful with lots of whale sightings and excellent fishing.


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## captainchetco (Mar 18, 2007)

I am on the verge of making another voyage from Bellingham to Coos Bay, Oregon and would be happy to take one or two people along. Plan on leaving as soon as my new autopilot is installed.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I would love to take you up on your offer, and will if you are doing a run next boating season 2008. My leg is recovering from a hip replacement surgery and for some reason is giving me more pain than most with similar surgeries. Some days I'll be able to almost run on it, other days I literally involuntarily verbalizing pain as something seems to tighten and incapacitate me and I can just barely limp along - very frustrating. By the spring and summer of next year, I will have to years under my belt post surgery and I will be much better then. The problem with these surgeries isn't the muscle or bone damage, it is the nerve damage resulting from the procedure.

Now back to my question and your experience. Those swells you talk about are the very thing I want to avoid. The last time I was sea sick was on a whale watching boat out of Depoe Bay a little over a decade ago. It was the third time out watching whales there, but the swells got to me the last time, not the first two times. Now I had zero sea time under my legs then so I know I wouldn't be quite as bad as that, but I would like to avoid those swells if possible.

Now whale watching meant the boat was halted so everyone could see the whales. The non-forward movement of the boat amplified the motion of the swells as we just bobbed up and down, side to side...lol. With a boat moving through the swells, I know the inner ear vertigo action of the swells wouldn't be as profound - that was my experience in the Navy.

I don't know the route of the Victoria to Maui race, but I'm assuming they aren't hugging the coast as that would increase the distance to Hawaii.

I've edited this in: here is a video of one boat in the Victoria to Maui race; its 40 minutes long and I didn't think I would last watching it but I found it enjoyable even though the visual part of the video is poor (the music is fun, the humour is sometimes good and heck: who wouldn't want to be out there with these guys). The video reminds me why sailboating for the average guy opens so many doors around the world than power boating. Most power boats wouldn't have the fuel range to make this trip.


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## captainchetco (Mar 18, 2007)

*Mal de Mar*

WHale watching trips are real Pukers. When you stop foreward motion, the boat is no longer steered/steerable, and it then turns to lie ahull, meaning broadside to the swells or waves. this is the position of the *most* motion, and brings on seasickness at its finest.

Things to help (nothings perfect) avoid seasickness include looking at the horizon in the direction from which the seas are coming. Avoid coffee and alcohol, drink Gatorade or non-caffine tea; keep your mind occupied on something other than the motion of the boat. If you have control of the vessel, keep enough way on to point the bow into the general direction of the sea. There are lots of other remedies as well.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

might be best @ 10 miles offshore,

under other conditions, 50 miles might be better,

how about splitting the difference and steer 30 miles out, and adjust to present conditions?

just throwing this out for discussion,


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Bigwilly, the other problem with the Oregon coast is a "fog bank" which can hang around for many days or weeks. I doubt you watched the video of the link of the Victoria to Maui race I posted, but on day two the owner claimed they were about 110 miles off the coast of Oregon and the waves looked great (and no fog). I don't know how far out the fog bank extends, and this wouldn't stop me as I'm one of those who will install radar. I have a JRC 1800 unit I got a good deal on, sitting in a box, waiting for other electronic goodies to be installed.

Currently I have a Catalina 27 but I wouldn't be going down the coast in that; I'm planning on heading to the Med in about 3 years. For the me the issue is where do I purchase the new "used" boat; do I buy it in Vancouver, maybe La Paz, maybe in Florida, or maybe in the Med. In other forum, I discovered there is a rally that leaves Florida in the first week of May and heads over to Europe. I might take advantage of it.

For me, its do I pay more money but really know what I'm getting (as I'd have more time in Vancouver where I live to scope out a boat) or do I purchase something further away. I suspect the best "deal" probably is in Florida, don't know for sure, but probably.

I have a friend who single handed a boat back from the French Polynesia, taking 45 days to reach Vancouver; want to guess where he ran into his worst experience? Yep, off the Oregon coast, for some reason I have researched yet, it can get unfriendly there, though I know the waters off of California can be "interesting" at times as well.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Have you seen the Knowledge Network program "Ocean Wanderers"? It's about a Victoria dentist who bought a florida boat and then sailed around the world over a period of years.

They were ultimately successful in their voyage, but one part that stuck out was when the arrived to provision their 'new' boat, they found it on the hard, half full of rain water, needing a lot more work than they were led to believe. If I recall correctly they spent 6 figures more before they were able to leave, and the trip was delayed of course.

So there are risks to the long distance approach. The problem with here in Vancouver is the limited offerings available for a suitable vessel. Checking out Puget Sound or even as far as Oregon/N Cal and bringing the boat back to live with for a couple of years may be the ticket.


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I'm not sure I have seen the video you are referring to, though I have seen portions of a video of a family sailing around the world, so that might have been it.

I agree it would be more desirable to purchase a boat in BC or along coastal Pacific North West, maybe from Northern California up. I figured I could purchase an American boat and if I were to use it for the Med, to moor it a Point Roberts, that great piece of American soil in Greater Vancouver. That same guy who singled handed for 45 days bought his made in Taiwan CT under the old Canadian tax rules where you could bring back a two year old boat without paying duties.

He kept is CT at Point Roberts for two years. We used to routinely go out in November, December, January and February on a Friday evening and return late Sunday night, to and from Friday Harbour. At one point in my sailing career I realized I had done more night time sailing than day light sailing. I've never understood pleasure boaters paranoia of night sailing; far less boats on the water and easy to spot ships, tugs, and the very rare pleasure boater even in very dark conditions at two in the morning.

I was originally thinking I could rent a room for around two months in Florida while I looked for a boat. Perhaps I should use Pardey's method of boat buying; you get to know the marina managers and ask about the boats that haven't gone out for a couple of years, looking for a bargain as the owner may have died, lost interest in boating, become disabled, had a business down turn, etc. You then leave notes on the boat informing the person of your interest in purchasing the boat and hope the note is discovered. The flaw in the room rental in Florida is that to get the boat ready would require some substantial time and by the time you factor this cost in, the bargain boat isn't a bargain any more.

Here is a link helpful in preparing a North American boat for European waters, including a useful discussion on whether to purchase the boat in Europe and how to avoid the dreaded VAT tax (by a used boat).

http://svsarah.com/whoosh/whoosh.htm


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## GeminiDaze (Jan 26, 2007)

One year ago next month I purchased a Jeanneu SO43DS in San Diego. Enjoyed sailing around there off and on through March of this year when My wife and I began our trip uphill to the Columbia River. Missed an absolutely georgous month of January to bring her up. The first two legs were from SD to Santa Barbara and SB to Monterey. Took 50 hours motor sailing (mostly mortoring) as there was virtually no wind until we reached each entrance. We stayed 15-20 nm offsore. 

As work would have it, had to leave her in Monterey until mid May. The rest of the way brought on the Pacific High and Northwesterlies, yep dead on the nose. Next leg was from Monterey to Bodega Bay, 135nm and took us a full 30 hours. We were stuck in Bodega Bay for 5 days waiting out gale force winds. It dropped down to 10 gusting to 15 when we headed further North. We were out about 20 nm and 10 hours up the coast when we encountered the first gale lasting about 8 hours then it relaxed for another 8 when the second gale hit for another 8 hours. After another calmer period of 6 hours we encountered a strong gale and were being buffeted for the next 16 hours with 30 gusting to 40kts, barely making 1 knot over ground. The last 4 hours were uneventful as we pulled into Eureka. 

After resting a few days we proceeded further up the coast to Coos Bay (24hrs) and then on up to the Columbia. These last two legs were quite calm with a small gale around Cape Blanco. 

I think an important thing to remember is if the chart shows a Point or Cape then be aware that is where you will most likely encounter stronger winds and of course heavier seas. Look at the sea contour to get an idea why the worst seas. There was never any specific storm associated with these gales just the pressure differences from the Pacific High. 

I have traveled up and down the Washington coast and can generally make the uphill trip in about 30 hours and the downhill trip in 24. Most of the good ports from Neah Bay all the way to San Diego are an average of 200nm apart which can generally be done in 24-30 hours running at 7kts over water. I know that doesn't divide out perfectly but I am generalizing. 

Crab traps or traps on long lines are one of the biggest problems. The long lines are the worst as there are several traps connected to a single 3/4" tightly wound poly line. Nearly impossible to cut. The long lines are set all the way out to the 50 fathom line and the singles are generally set about 100 yards apart in 10-15 fathoms.


Outside of Santa Barbara, we encountered a long line crab trap and wrapped the retrieving lines in the wheel (prop). While in Eureka, a crabber gave me some advice that I'll share. He said there isn't a season that he doesn't wrap 4-5 traps up in his propeller (wheel). Since most of the time there his own traps he desn't like to cut the line. He said to take the line(s) leading from the trap and the float and pull them up over the stern in line with the wheel (prop) and pull them up as tight as you can. If it takes a winch to get enough tension then so be it. While holding it tight, pop the shift lever in and out of forward and then reverse. As the line jumps off a blade of the wheel, take up the slack. He said that 9 out of 10 times it will come completely loose and the one time it doesn't he then cuts the line leading to the trap.

My Columbia river trips are numerous. Time your crossing at High or Low slack. Avoid a max ebb or flood. Call the coasties before crossing for a bar report they are really good about the information on that bar. If you enter the Columbia on a flood tide it will suck you into Clatsop spit or the south jetty. Even though you normally want to stay on the red markers, on a flood tide it makes the trip fast into the spit and jetty. I usually ride the green bouys in until I make the big turn.


The trip South should be much easier. Have fun and enjoy the following seas.


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## RandyonR3 (Oct 2, 2005)

I've made the trip a couple times, and as recent as last year. fog would be my greatest complaint, right along with crab pots. 
The first time down I didnt give St. Georges reef enough clearance and after clearing the lighthouse I turned east to Cresent City. A couple miles east of the lighthoust, I spotted the head of a rock come out of the water at the bottom of a swell to the south side of the boat. After checking with the local fisherman in Cresent City, they said it was FANTOM ROCK and only shows itself at low tide and then only at the bottom of the swell.. My advice it to give the lighthouse a good couple miles before turning east.
My second trip down, the radar went out, in the fog.. Come to find out, dampness had gotton into the rear at the conections and I lost the signel.
Again it was the local fisherman that lead me to an electronic SPRAY to shoot the conections to get the water out...
That trip I ran in the fog all the way to San Francisco...


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## nwpacketeer (Oct 9, 2004)

Most of our friends who have gone prefer the 100 mile approach and leave late Aug or early Sept. Try to avoid touching ashore unless in an emergency, and the Newport and Coos Bay. 

Good luck, and keep us up to date when you leave!


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## Lion35 (Sep 28, 2007)

A lot of good advice here (weather, prepair, weather). I took the trip down from Squim to SF in August '98. We anchored in Neah Bay before turning the corner and then came in at Newport for a few days of rest and beer at the Rouge River Brewery; we found the entrance to be very straightforward. We took the inside route about 10-15nm offshore. Watch for fishing boats and be very careful when crossing the heavy traffic heading into the Columbia (radar really helps). Very big swell for most of the trip and great wind, the strongest wind we saw was about 30knts sustained. One of the best trips I've had, prepare, watch the weather, and enjoy.


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