# Garhauer E-Z Glide Adjustable Genoa Car System



## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

Has anyone tried, or seen, the Garhauer E-Z Glide Adjustable Genoa Car System?

Garhauer Marine Hardware -868508

Their pictures are not great, but I get the idea. I was looking for something else and ran accross these on their web site. I was thinking of using another system that required the installation of blocks and cleats, with the accompanying hole drilling.

What I like about this system is that it appears that no holes are needed. It is also cheaper and would take up less space on the deck.

What I don't like about it is that, from what I am guessing, it looks like the control line would rub along the side of the car and wear of chafe the line.

For someone who knows, which would I use on a 30 foot boat? I would tend to get the heavy duty one but that might be overkill.

How hard is it to pull the car forward in a good stiff breeze? Does the car slide easily?

Thanks all...


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

I just found this page. This guy installed it and likes it, and has some nice pictures.

Adj. Lead Cars


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I installed the EZ G-2UB system on my boat. Makes it really simple to adjust the position on my 150% genny even in heavier conditions. You could probably get away with the EZG-1UB, since you're boat is a monohull and has less load on the genny due to heeling...


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

I replaced the track and car that is used for my storm jib and lapper with one of the Garhauer EX Glides on my 38 footer. I have been very pleased with it so far. I had them customize the end fitting for me so that I have a bit more purchase and can adjust it from the cockpit rather than from the integral camcleat that came standard. 

Jeff


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

Jeff_H said:


> I replaced the track and car that is used for my storm jib and lapper with one of the Garhauer EX Glides on my 38 footer. I have been very pleased with it so far. I had them customize the end fitting for me so that I have a bit more purchase and can adjust it from the cockpit rather than from the integral camcleat that came standard.
> 
> Jeff


Thanks SD, nice picture! I'll have to see if I have a 1 inch or 1.24 inch track. The smallest system uses 1 inch track.

Jeff, what mods did you ask for? Do you use the number 2 or the number 3 on your boat?


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## nickmerc (Nov 2, 2008)

I have been looking at these for a while. When I get through a few other projects I will be making this upgrade.

I have found that for nonracing boats Garhauer is the biggest bang for your buck.
________
Live sex webshows


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## j34035 (Nov 10, 2006)

Got em, use em, love em.
DD


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

nickmerc said:


> I have found that for nonracing boats Garhauer is the biggest bang for your buck.


Why for non-racing boats?


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## padean (Jul 5, 2001)

Just purchased and replaced my 19 y.o genoa cars with this system last fall. They are great! The cars alone are phenomenal, byt the easyglide system makes it very easy to use, even in heavy winds with a bit too much sail up. The only problem I had was that I initially used too small a line for the adjuster, and in heavy winds the rope slipped in the clutch a little bit. Went up to a 1/4" line and works fine. My 100# wife can easily adjust them from the cockpit. Garhauer makes the car body to fit your track, so if the current trask is fine, just give them the specifications and they will fit your track. I did that with an old Lewmar system and it fits perfectly. Nice roller bearing (top and bottom) cars.

As you may know, Gaurhauer equipment is often heavier than some of the other major manufacturers. I happen to like that the blocks and cars are slightly "overbuilt" and a little heavier, though some of my racing buddies insist that that extra 6 oz makes a difference in winning or loosing a race.... doubt it. Highly recommended.

If you want picture, PM me and I can take some when I am at the boat.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

BTW, the Garhauer genoa fairlead cars only have bearings on the bottom, not the top and bottom as you say. It would add a lot to the cost and do little to the performance to have bearings on the top, since genoa cars are only loaded with an upwards force. There is NO NEED for bearings above the track.

One caveat, the torlon bearings are not held in place by anything more than gravity, so do not remove the rail the cars are shipped on. Butt the rail up to the track, and slide the car from the rail to the track. DAMHIK.



padean said:


> Just purchased and replaced my 19 y.o genoa cars with this system last fall. They are great! The cars alone are phenomenal, byt the easyglide system makes it very easy to use, even in heavy winds with a bit too much sail up. The only problem I had was that I initially used too small a line for the adjuster, and in heavy winds the rope slipped in the clutch a little bit. Went up to a 1/4" line and works fine. My 100# wife can easily adjust them from the cockpit. Garhauer makes the car body to fit your track, so if the current trask is fine, just give them the specifications and they will fit your track. I did that with an old Lewmar system and it fits perfectly. Nice roller bearing (top and bottom) cars.
> 
> As you may know, Gaurhauer equipment is often heavier than some of the other major manufacturers. I happen to like that the blocks and cars are slightly "overbuilt" and a little heavier, though some of my racing buddies insist that that extra 6 oz makes a difference in winning or loosing a race.... doubt it. Highly recommended.
> 
> If you want picture, PM me and I can take some when I am at the boat.


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

If the Garhauer non-racing boat comment was due to weight, well in my 30+ year old 8,000 pound boat, I doubt a few extra pounds at the deck will make a big difference. If so, I'll put the crew on a diet. Then again, I have enough trouble keeping the boat flat, so I'll buy the crew some cake and ice cream!


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## padean (Jul 5, 2001)

sailingdog said:


> BTW, the Garhauer genoa fairlead cars only have bearings on the bottom, not the top and bottom as you say. It would add a lot to the cost and do little to the performance to have bearings on the top, since genoa cars are only loaded with an upwards force. There is NO NEED for bearings above the track.
> 
> One caveat, the torlon bearings are not held in place by anything more than gravity, so do not remove the rail the cars are shipped on. Butt the rail up to the track, and slide the car from the rail to the track. DAMHIK.


You are correct. Sorry if I misled.

Also, getting the cars on a track can be a bit of a struggle, since the rails the cars are shipped with need at least 8" of straight-line clearance at one end of the track of the other (which I did not have). But then again, I have never found updating any major equipment on a 19 y/o boat to be as easy or straight-forward as planned....


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## nickmerc (Nov 2, 2008)

jarcher said:


> Why for non-racing boats?


As mentioned by another, they are heavier than the uber pricey racing equivalents. I am trying to understand how a few ounces on an 8000# boat can make a difference but these are the same guys who do not mount thier VHF antenna at the mast top to save weigh aloft.
________
EbonyExotic


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## NCountry (May 25, 2006)

Well, I'm a bit confused or maybe my mind is just not geared toward simple things. Shouldn't you be able to to move the genoa fairlead cars in both directions? I've been looking at something like this but everytime I see something like this on a boat you're able to move the car in either direction from the cockpit.


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## nickmerc (Nov 2, 2008)

NCountry,

The garhauer setup allows the genoa car to move in both directions. The shock cord and the load on the sheet will move the car aft, while the control line will move it foward.
________
CALIFORNIA MEDICAL MARIJUANA DISPENSARIES


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Under all but the lightest wind conditions, the genoa sheets will tend to force the cars aft, so you really don't need to have a control line to pull the car aft. The reason you need the 4:1 tackle is so you can force it forward when the winds are stronger.


NCountry said:


> Well, I'm a bit confused or maybe my mind is just not geared toward simple things. Shouldn't you be able to to move the genoa fairlead cars in both directions? I've been looking at something like this but everytime I see something like this on a boat you're able to move the car in either direction from the cockpit.


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

After putting more thought into this, I realized that because of the way I like to do things in a race, I'll need the double wide jib lead blaock, like I have now. 

Garhauer does not seem to have those. I sent them a note asking if they can make these with double wide blocks. If they can't maybe I can get their end pieces and use a lead from someone else...


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

This system from Schaefer looks pretty good.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2234|311658|311661&id=186109

I had originally dismissed it last season because of the cost. From Schaefer it's $2,150 or so. But Defender has a much better price, and maybe if I look around others will have as good a discount.

The downside of this system is that its still a bit more expensive then Garhauer, and from what I can tell the car does not have bearings. Also I have to drill holes to install it, which of course means removing some core, epoxy and the redrill. 

The upside is that it has the twin lead car (a big plus) and the control line does not need to rub against the car.

Hopefully Garhauer will be able to supply twin lead cars with ball bearings. That would be the best all around answer.


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## BarryL (Aug 21, 2003)

Hey,

If you want to buy it from Defender, do it NOW! Their big sale ends Sunday.

Barry


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

BarryL said:


> Hey,
> 
> If you want to buy it from Defender, do it NOW! Their big sale ends Sunday.
> 
> Barry


Ug, thanks! That means I need to get to the boat and measure that track ASAP!


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

I'm thinking of modifying mine by adding some slide tape and cheek blocks. Couldn't justify the cost of new lead cars for a track that's only 1.5' long on my boat.










I'm sure w/ a couple blocks, cleats and some string it'll work.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Garhauer will pretty much mix and match as you need if you call them up and tell them what you want. They're very good at that. They even make stuff up that is IMHO semi-custom for a very reasonable cost.


jarcher said:


> This system from Schaefer looks pretty good.
> 
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2234|311658|311661&id=186109
> 
> ...


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

sailingdog said:


> Garhauer will pretty much mix and match as you need if you call them up and tell them what you want. They're very good at that. They even make stuff up that is IMHO semi-custom for a very reasonable cost.


I actually spoke with this earlier this afternoon. I referred them to the Schaefer site, and when he saw what I was talking about (the twin sheet lead car) I could almost hear the light go on in his head.

He said he would investigate and get back to me. I hunted around on their web site and didn't see any twin sheet lead cars, so I wonder if they will be able to do it.

The only concern I have about the Schafer system is that the cars don't have ball bearings and I am concerned about how hard they will be to adjust under load.

Would anyone who has that system care to comment?


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

What do you mean it is a bit more expensive than Garhauer??? Garhauer's medium system is $701.80 for the two cars and the cam cleat set, the Schaefer, which isn't even bearing equipped is $1284.29 or* 83% more money. I don't consider almost double the price just "a bit more expensive", when you're talking about almost $600....*

Yeah, you have to buy the line and the shock cord, but that is a lot less than $600



jarcher said:


> This system from Schaefer looks pretty good.
> 
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2234|311658|311661&id=186109
> 
> ...


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

sailingdog said:


> What do you mean it is a bit more expensive than Garhauer??? Garhauer's medium system is $701.80 for the two cars and the cam cleat set, the Schaefer, which isn't even bearing equipped is $1284.29 or* 83% more money. I don't consider almost double the price just "a bit more expensive", when you're talking about almost $600....*
> 
> Yeah, you have to buy the line and the shock cord, but that is a lot less than $600


Actually with the swivel, Garhauer's medium system is $798.60 for both sides, but yes the other system is $1,284.29, so more than a third again as much. I'm not sure what kind of line I would use but its probably going to be about 100 feet for both sides, but I guess I can agree that the Schaefer system is more than a bit more expensive.

On the topic of ball bearings, they can be good or bad. They can flatten with wear or they can fall out. I spoke with spomeone at Schaefer. They say their cars have a teflon sleeve that - they claim - handles the load well and can easily be replaced if it wears. They said UV was a bigger killer than wear.

Still, I am leaning toward the Garhauer product. Will I really ever do a head sail change when I absolutely don't want to tack? Probably yes, but not super often. I just hate to not have that capability. But there are other ways around it, I could rig another lead from the toe rail temporarially. If I am switching to the number 3 it does not matter anyhow since that sail has its own tracks.

I'm really hoping Garhauer calls me back and says they can make it up for me with the twin sheet lead car. Of course that will add some expense, but probably not $500 worth.

I also have to make sire I have the 8 inches in front of the track! I know I don't behind it.


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## Shortman (Feb 12, 2006)

*Have it*

love it, 4 years. Big Garhauer fan


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## VIC26 (Aug 28, 2009)

Is there a rule of thumb for positioning the tracks, say in relation to the mast or something? I'm considering a set for a boat that has none now. I'll have to buy the track also but not sure how long. Boat is 26 feet


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## Gene T (May 23, 2006)

VIC26 said:


> Is there a rule of thumb for positioning the tracks, say in relation to the mast or something? I'm considering a set for a boat that has none now. I'll have to buy the track also but not sure how long. Boat is 26 feet


It depends. Tracks can run from the shrouds back to aft of the winches. Or they can be short. It depends on the sails you will use. If you race you will need more options. Close to the shrouds because you will use deck sweeper foresails so you need the cars forward. In light winds you might use a large Genoa, and if going offshore or wanting more visibility you have it higher cut so you can see under it, then you need to sheet it way back to get proper shape.

Inboard for close sheeting going to weather or out on the rail for off the wind. Most modern production boats have tracks that are too short.

A good start is to see where your sails need to be sheeted now to get good shape.

Gene


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

Thanks for the advice everyone, I ordered the number 2 size system from Garhauer, with the swivel cam. They were not able to supply the twin sheet lead car, so I am loosing that capability. If I really thought it was super important I would have spent the extra money for the Schaefer system, but I didn;t.

We'll see if I ever regret that. I doubt it.

With the money I saved I ordered two snatch blocks for the new spinnaker. Garhauer is haveing a sale on snatch blocks until the end of April!


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

Only time you'll do a headsail change mid race is usually a distance race. And even then it's rare if you have good weather info and can depower the rig.


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

zz4gta said:


> Only time you'll do a headsail change mid race is usually a distance race. And even then it's rare if you have good weather info and can depower the rig.


Sometimes, you need to add power ;-)

Actually, most people I know who race tell me that in medium to long races, a headsail change is entirely common. However, usually it is done while the spinnaker is up, or done when a tack can be tossed in. Its not super common to need to do it without tacking.

I had an idea and Garhauer said they can do it. They are going to let me know the cost of using the kind of blocks that open on the side, like their snatch blocks, in place of their standard lead car block. In fact, they sell just such a lead car, it's their 40-40 SB. I expect the cost will only be a bit higher and I'll have them do it.

It is not a complete solution but it will help in a few situations. Probably a good compromise.


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

jarcher said:


> I had an idea and Garhauer said they can do it. They are going to let me know the cost of using the kind of blocks that open on the side, like their snatch blocks, in place of their standard lead car block. In fact, they sell just such a lead car, it's their 40-40 SB. I expect the cost will only be a bit higher and I'll have them do it.


Just got off the phone with Garhauer, they said that the cost to do this is a whopping extra $30.00 per side, or $60 total. I said do it.

Here is a link to the block they will use:

Garhauer Marine Hardware -895755

Scroll all the way to the bottom, its the 40-40 SB.

Like I said, not exactly what I wanted but it will do.


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## j34035 (Nov 10, 2006)

I've dealt with them several times. They are good suppliers and like your results, they will work with you to get what you need.!
DD


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

*Follow up*

The Garhauer EZ Genoa Lead system I ordered has arrived, complete with the modified blocks I requested. For those who are interested, pictures can be found in my image gallery, here:

Garhauer EZ Genoa Lead Car System | Jim's Scampi 30 MK-IV Site - Helios

Click on the thumbnails for bigger pictures.

This is some seriousely sturdy stuff. Very solid. Its heavy, but its an 8,000 pound boat to begin with.


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## jackytdunaway (Sep 11, 2006)

Mind telling us what the total cost was?


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Ummm... you could just look on the Garhauer site and then add $60 for the upgraded fairlead blocks... 



jackytdunaway said:


> Mind telling us what the total cost was?


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

sailingdog said:


> Ummm... you could just look on the Garhauer site and then add $60 for the upgraded fairlead blocks...


Yup, what SD said. $362.50 for the E-Z G-2UB "with series 40 snatch block instead of standard" plus the "swivel jammers" for $96.80, which is the same price as on their web site.

As an aside, I asked what size snatch blocks were proper for a spinnaker on a 30 foot boat and they suggested the series 60. These things are absolutely massive! I wonder why the series 40 are okay for the genoa but they recomend series 60 for the spinnaker? Who knows. But boy, those are big!

Anyhow, I'll post more pictures after I actually install them and add some line and bungy cords.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Spinnakers are generally a lot bigger than genoas are. For instance, the asym spinnaker for my boat is 700 sq. ft. IIRC. The 150% genny is only 275 sq. ft.

JTD, btw, it was 362.50 x 2 + 96.80 for the track mount cam cleats.



jarcher said:


> Yup, what SD said. $362.50 for the E-Z G-2UB "with series 40 snatch block instead of standard" plus the "swivel jammers" for $96.80, which is the same price as on their web site.
> 
> As an aside, I asked what size snatch blocks were proper for a spinnaker on a 30 foot boat and they suggested the series 60. These things are absolutely massive! I wonder why the series 40 are okay for the genoa but they recomend series 60 for the spinnaker? Who knows. But boy, those are big!
> 
> Anyhow, I'll post more pictures after I actually install them and add some line and bungy cords.


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

sailingdog said:


> JTD, btw, it was 362.50 x 2 + 96.80 for the track mount cam cleats.


The 96.80 was for the cam cleats? I thought it was for the part of the block that swiveled. If that's the case I may just send those back. I'm not sure I want the line coming back right along the track and car. I'm concerned it will chafe the line.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

I'm pretty sure the $96.80 is for the pair of cam cleats that are track mounted. It really doesn't chafe the line and lets you cleat the control lines for the genoa fairleads very simply... and doesn't require you to drill more holes in your boat.

From the Garhauer Marine site:



> E-Z Glide Adjustable Genoa Car System
> SJ-1-1/4
> length: width:
> weight: shackle:
> ...





jarcher said:


> The 96.80 was for the cam cleats? I thought it was for the part of the block that swiveled. If that's the case I may just send those back. I'm not sure I want the line coming back right along the track and car. I'm concerned it will chafe the line.


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## jarcher (Jul 29, 2008)

My mistake then. I thought the "swivel cams" meant that the lead car blocks would swivel on the car. I suppose I coudl have asked but it never occured to me I was mistaken, so I didn't.

I like their stuff, and I concede I should have thought of that, but their web site really does suck.


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

Most of the blocks tilt or swivel... and that's free.. 



jarcher said:


> My mistake then. I thought the "swivel cams" meant that the lead car blocks would swivel on the car. I suppose I coudl have asked but it never occured to me I was mistaken, so I didn't.
> 
> I like their stuff, and I concede I should have thought of that, but their web site really does suck.


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