# Proper use of the Traveler



## PDixon (Aug 29, 2001)

Could someone give me a brief guide to the proper use of the traveler, I tend to keep mine centered. I know it does something but I don''t really know for sure what it is
Thanks


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I hang a beer holder from the traveler car and use the traveler to transfer beverages to the other side of the cockpit, so I don''t have to get up or reach over.

Seriously, use the search function of the message board and type in "traveler" or "weather helm" and read through the results.

Allen Flanigan


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

I use the traveler quite a bit. When I''m going to windward in light air I cheat the traveler up so as to get the boom over the center of the boat without having to sheet so hard that I lose sail shape. I also use it when falling off the wind a bit. I can keep the main sheeted in and travel down to keep the boom from rising and again help maintain sail shape. This is more important if you don''t have a boom vang.
The traveler simply allows you to keep your sail shape over a wider area than if the main sheet was in a fixed position.
Best of luck
Dirt


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## bob_walden (May 1, 2003)

I think the most common use for a traveller is to use it to dump the main during puffs while sailing close-hauled. As the puff hits and weather helm develops, you ease the traveller down to spill air and reduce weather helm and heel. 

This assumes your traveller is rigged with lines and blocks to allow you to move it while the main is under load. 

bw


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## hamiam (Dec 15, 2000)

The traveler can be used to spill air during puffs and that certainly is a legit purpose but its real talent is changing the angle on your main sheet and thereby alterting the shape of your mainsail. Bringing it to windward induces twist in your main and powers up the rig. Bring the traveler to leeward tends to flatten the sail and depower it. In very simple terms...


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

The primary purpose of a traveler is in controling the twist in the mainsail. The further that the traveler car is moved to windward the more horizontal the pull and the more twist that is induced into the sail. The closer to being directly under the boom, the more vertical the pull and the greater the download on the sail and so there is greater tension in the leech of the sail and the less twist is experienced by the sail. Controlling twist is a critical part of optomising performance. Some degree of twist is beneficial, especially in light to moderate winds. 

To begin with, if you look at a sail in section (cut horizontally through the sail) it is a wing. Even very efficient wings have an 'incident angle'; and 'slip angle'. In other words, a wing (or a sail) needs to be placed at an angle to the wind to work. For any given wind, and any given sail, and any given boat in a given condition, at any given spot on the sail, there is an optimum angle of attack in order to achieve the best performance. What I mean by 'best preformance' is an increase in forward drive while as well as minimizing of drag, and more importantly reducing the amount of sideforce which is responsible for creating heeling and leeway .

What further complicates all of this is that the wind at the top of the sail is actually different than the wind at the bottom of the sail. Called ''gradient effect'', in light to moderate winds the wind speed typically increases the higher you get above the surface of the water. 

Visualize gradient effect this way, there is friction between air and water and between air and air. Because of this friction, at the surface of the water there is a (barrier) layer of air that does not move at all relative to the water. Next to this layer of air is another layer of air that moves slowly over this stationary barrier layer. That layer feels the friction of the barrier layer and the friction of the layer above it that is being motavated by the ambient wind. Each higher layer moves a bit more quickly compared to the layer below until at some point up in the air there is a point at which the air moves at the speed of the ambient winds and does not feel the affect of the barrier. 

In light air, this gradient affect can be dozens of feet deep. At very much higher wind speeds the whole gradiant effect, from barrier to free flowing wind, is only a couple inches deep. Most of us typically sail in windspeeds where the effect is somewhere in between those extremes but typically taller than the average mast height even in a moderate wind.

In a sailboat, this means that the boat feels more true wind speed at the masthead than it does at the deck. Because of the way that apparent wind works, when close reaching or beating, the higher wind speed at the masthead produces higher apparent winds at the masthead that are also more abeam to the boat than the apparent winds that are felt lower in the sail. Getting back to your question, twist allows the sail to have differing attack angles as you move up the sail, each at a proper angle of attack relative to the apparent wind that it is passing over the sail at that point. 

If you eliminated twist in light to moderate conditions, some of the sail will be over trimmed and/or some of the sail will be under trimmed for the conditions. Of course as windspeeds increase, gradient wind effect decreases. As a result as the wind increases in speed, twist should be reduced. This is done by lowering the traveller which should also be used in concert with reduction in camber (depth of the curve in the sail) achieved by increasing halyard, outhaul and sheet tension. In a really strong breeze the sail needs a comparatively flat camber and flaat angle of attack and so the sail should be bladed out. This means maximum halyard tension, outhaul tension, backstay tension, mainsheet tension. To further reduce the angle of attack the traveller is dropped as well. This will decrease weather helm and heeling. 

Just for the record, jibs have twist as well. Twist in jibs is controlled by the jib sheet lead angles. Moving the jibsheet car aft tightens the lower sail and increases twist in the sail, moving the track forward pulls down on the leech and so decreases twist. On jibs you increase twist in really light air to open the slot and in really heavy air to reduce heeling. 

The clues to the proper amount of twist comes from the teltales. On mainsails the leech teletales at the battens provide the best information. All of the teletales up the leech should be flying when the sail is set properly. When there is inadequate twist the teletale at the head will be stalled and sucked back into the sail. On some if not most mainsails, in moderate winds, some intermitant stalling of the upper teletale is the fastest way upwind. 

On jibs, the luff teletales should all be flying and all of the teletales should ''break'' evenly. On small jibs (with battens), leech teletales are very helpful with sail trim as well. 

One of the problems with battenless mainsails is that it is much harder to control twist without developing leech flutter. That problem, almost as much as the smaller sail area, is what kills performance in in-mast furling sails in lighter conditions. Sails with sunguards also can have problems with leech flutter and so often require greater leechline tension, which produces a hook in the leech of the sail and some loss in performance as well. 

Regards,
Jeff


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Jeff, I have read a lot of different explanations of mailsail trim, but this is one of the most concise and understandable I can recall. Thanks


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## duckjibe (Feb 18, 2007)

Excellent information Jeff , I"ve been lurking for a while, absorbing all the info. 
Jeff, I believe you meant "gradient" not gradiant? or am I mistaken?

Frank


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

Spelling has never been my strong suit. Thanks for the correction and the kind words. I have made the correction to the text.
Jeff


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## Kacper (Oct 24, 2006)

Jeff you are the man! I always wondered how to use the traveler to help performance. I'm going to experiment with this on my next trip out.

Also, the information about the jib sheet leads really helped clear things up... So far no one was able to explain it to me in such clarity... It will take out a lot of confusion out of my next sailing day.

So far, I have only been using the traveler to move the boom out of the way when the main sail is down and I want to have a better view and more space to eat lunch in a calm 

Kacper


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## SailinJay (Dec 6, 2002)

Cam--

Got another first-time poster posting a bunch of spam (post prior to the one above).


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## theonecalledtom (Jan 2, 2008)

*Dur!*

Thanks Jeff for the explanation! I've started to use the traveller over the last year and to adjust the jib sheet lead to try and match wind twist. However the idea of over twisting the jib to spill wind high up and avoid over powering (assuming I understood correctly) was a useful addition for me....

I was also interested in the need to over-tighten leaches with sails that have UV strips. I've noticed this on some of the boats I rent and was wondering if perhaps I was missing some other way to tension the leach without developing that ugly "hook" in the sail. Is there a way around this problem?

Thanks again!


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## TSOJOURNER (Dec 16, 1999)

Excellent post, Jefff. I use the traveller more or less as you describe, but you explain it very well and give some additional information and hints to improve trimming. Thanks.


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## Frantum (May 3, 2011)

Thanks Jeff, I actually followed that.


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## jsaronson (Dec 13, 2011)

There is good information on sail trim on both the North Sails US and North Sails UK sites. The info is different on each. (I found UK better) They will give you the visuals to go with Jeff's explanation.


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## WDS123 (Apr 2, 2011)

Note - traveler is typically last sail control to be manipulated. First get the rest of controls dialed in and only then mess with traveler.

Also note, many modern performance rigs require hardly any traveler use. Bang sheeting and backstay are designed to 'effectively' depower sail. 

A few modern performance rigs have even done away with traveler entirely


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## olgriz (Dec 14, 2009)

Excellent explanation! The best I have heard or read. Thanks.


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## captain jack (May 5, 2013)

DirtManly said:


> I use the traveler quite a bit. When I''m going to windward in light air I cheat the traveler up so as to get the boom over the center of the boat without having to sheet so hard that I lose sail shape. I also use it when falling off the wind a bit. I can keep the main sheeted in and travel down to keep the boom from rising and again help maintain sail shape. This is more important if you don''t have a boom vang.
> The traveler simply allows you to keep your sail shape over a wider area than if the main sheet was in a fixed position.
> Best of luck
> Dirt


good quick explanation. one point, though: the traveler is better at controlling boom lift close hauled and the vang is better at controlling it off of the wind. so, even if you have a vang, it is wise to use the traveler, as you point.


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## bobperry (Apr 29, 2011)

I was confused by the term used here, "Bang sheeting". I figured it was "helms alee!" and Bang! it's sheeted. I'll buy that. Kind of.

Then I noiticed that "V" is right next to "B" on the keyboard.


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## captain jack (May 5, 2013)

bobperry said:


> I was confused by the term used here, "Bang sheeting". I figured it was "helms alee!" and Bang! it's sheeted. I'll buy that. Kind of.
> 
> Then I noiticed that "V" is right next to "B" on the keyboard.


:laugher that's a good one


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Kacper said:


> So far, I have only been using the traveler to move the boom out of the way when the main sail is down and I want to have a better view and more space to eat lunch in a calm
> 
> Kacper


Frankly that is indeed a valid use of the traveler. Especially on the anchor or at the dock. It also helps in moving the boom so I can get the sail cover on.
My traveler serves as a back rest (read - annoyance under sail) when it is centered.

Mostly I use it not for performance, but to spill air and manage heel - something that is a nice side affect and beneficial to cruisers who don't too much care about the extra .1kt but do indeed care about not waking up the off watch.


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## Jeff_H (Feb 26, 2000)

Multihullgirl said:


> Nutshell:
> 
> Mainsheet changes camber, traveler changes angle of attack


With all due respect, while that is partially right, it over-simplifies how these controls work, and minimizes the impact of the other controls to the point that it is not really an accurate statement.


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## Sal Paradise (Sep 14, 2012)

When close hauled in light winds, moving the traveler towards the wind - make the boat go faster. In heavy winds moving traveler downwind makes the boat heel less. Also, you can move the traveler using the main sail like an air rudder to balance the helm. Its a lot of fun.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Jeff's description of what a traveler does for you is spot on.

I totally get cruisers "poo-pooing" in that .1 knot of speed (but I'd argue we are talking as much as 1.0 knot of speed, but OK). 

Perhaps it's just my ignorance, but do cruisers NEVER go to windward? If that being the case there must be MANY cruising spinnakers then.... or even as well go to windward in current? Or is the iron genny really the only thing used while going to windward in those situations?

I'd think a necessary grasp of coarse adjustments of trim being essential for all sailors, you know, JUST IN CASE?... After all I've seen many a cruising sailboat have travelers, surely they can't ALL be using them for beer movement. As well, backstay adjusters, vangs (or was it bangs?), and moveable jib cars. Surely a minor adjustment in all of the above only gaining .1-.2 knot a piece could easily garner a full knot when taken in total, and frankly overcome much lost headway upstream at the very least, again, likely unnecessary if fossil fuels are being burned I am sure (but what if motor sailing)?

Perhaps I lost the sarcasm in the posts.


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## outbound (Dec 3, 2012)

Jeff- I'm curious as to the order in which you use your controls. I find after just a few day sails you kind of know how much backstay tension to put on for various wind speeds. So generally set it and forget it. Of course think about decreasing it when going down wind. I find the first control for me is halyard tension and outhaul, then backstay, then vang and traveler. Do you think this varies by boat ( e.g. more effect from backstay on a fractional rig then masthead) or do you have a favorite order?


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## blparrot (Oct 31, 2013)

Jeff,
So many thanks!!!! I've picked up a sailboat six months ago, on a huge learning curve, really want to ride the wind!!!!!! The owner passed away 17 years ago, the boat was rough, but no one to direct me with what was there. Again, thanks, this was a question I needed to ask, but didn't know what to ask! Still on that learning cure, but nuggets of info are so enjoyable!!!! Merry Christmas & a Very Happy New Year
blparrot PS, my 1st sailboat!!


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

SHNOOL said:


> .... but do cruisers NEVER go to windward?


Totally with you, SHNOOL... We raced for quite a long time, don't any more but I honestly don't think we sail any differently when sailing than we did if we were racing (other than being more cautions setting the kite in a breeze, with only two on board)

That extra .2, .5, 1.0 knot attainable by good sail trim and smart 'tactics' wrt the course being sailed can mean the difference between getting that last marina spot, favoured mooring buoy at your favourite park, or simply getting to your destination before the bay 'fills up'.. it can get you on the right side of a tide shift, catching a tidal narrows at a better time, etc etc...

To my wife's chagrin I'm a constant tweaker.. sheets, traveller, vang and she's not allowed to sit anywhere that blocks my view of the knotmeter (not the GPS!) We'll tack several times to avoid adverse current...

We DO see so many 'cruisers' motoring upwind in stellar conditions with plenty of daylight left.. hell we even see boats motoring across the strait in a 12 knot beam breeze and can only just shake our heads.

There are many, many skilled and dedicated sailors out there, no mistake... but there are also the others...


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## captain jack (May 5, 2013)

this cal 27 will be my first boat to actually have a traveler. the dinghy has a bridle and the holiday runs the sheet from the end of the boom to a block at the starboard corner then to a block to the port corner and then to a block on the boom and on up til it drops to hand, about mid boom.


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

I'll admit I do tend to poo-poo the .1kt extra that good trim provides..but I'm doing it (currently) as a day sailor. 
As a cruiser that .1 kt, and admittedly sometimes even 1kt, can mean several more miles per day - and that matters greatly on arrival time and perhaps even arrival day.

That said - even for cruising - I'd prefer to spend those extra hours/day under way at 5 degrees as opposed to 10. 

I can fill the Rum mug fuller at 5 degrees, that makes for less trips to the below decks barrels.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Chuckles... have you not heard of gimbaled drink holders? Geesh. Heel away!








5? not 10?
How about 15 to 20, or you just aren't going to windward. Now if we're racing? Ok, so we'll throw some crew at the rail to get us to 10 or less.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

more outhaul. 
And tell that camera man to hit the rail.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Cameraman went forward being a wise aker, puff hit... after a pretty easy sail up to that point. 

Then fat driver went highside (me), and dropped traveler, but not until I used all my "skill" to try to dump said cameraman overboard. A man's got to have a hobby. Sadly the 55 degree water didn't claim camera or cameraman... although it was riotous to see him standing on the lifelines trying to hold on!

Oh outhaul was "fixed" by the PO... so my present 1:1 outhaul will be getting replaced with a more appropriate 6:1 or 8:1 internal system this winter.


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## zz4gta (Aug 15, 2007)

SHNOOL said:


> Oh outhaul was "fixed" by the PO... so my present 1:1 outhaul will be getting replaced with a more appropriate 6:1 or 8:1 internal system this winter.


I had "hack job" 1:1 outhaul as well, makes a huge difference. I'll probably go to a 6:1 as my 4:1 doesn't quite have enough umph when it's blowin.


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## mbauer013 (Apr 7, 2014)

Great explanations! While I am just lake sailing right now and more likely to have to tack to avoid the shore than have time to fully set all of my controls, I'll have to keep this in mind on any upcoming Superior trips.


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## SHNOOL (Jun 7, 2007)

Update, 8:1 outhaul installed now too! The operating distance is short, but more than enough for what I need... moves about 4-5 inches.








and









Seems to work well.


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