# Reefing a Catalina 42



## glossa (Sep 16, 2012)

Does anyone have experience reefing a Catalina 42?

I tried reefing it at the dock using a line that runs from the cockpit, through a clutch to the base of the mast, through a couple of blocks, through the end of the boom. I then ran it through the reefing cringles and secured it to a metal loop on the mast, just above the gooseneck. 

I've read that the 42 came with a single line reefing system, but this doesn't look right to me.


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## JimMcGee (Jun 23, 2005)

glossa said:


> Does anyone have experience reefing a Catalina 42?
> 
> I tried reefing it at the dock using a line that runs from the cockpit, through a clutch to the base of the mast, through a couple of blocks, through the end of the boom. I then ran it through the reefing cringles and secured it to a metal loop on the mast, just above the gooseneck.
> 
> I've read that the 42 came with a single line reefing system, but this doesn't look right to me.


Glossa,
You'll want to re-route your lines, your owners manual has a section on rigging.

If the previous owner didn't include the manual with the boat these two pages from the Catalina 42 Owners Site should give you what you need.

BTW a call to Catalina should get you a copy of the manual if you need it. Their customer support is VERY good.

Click Here -- Single Line Reefing System

Click Here -- Running Rigging Arrangement

Jim


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

You are correct that this is not rigged correctly. At the end of the boom, the line goes through the clew ring then it should go back down to the boom and is tied off at the boom. So, it goes up from the boom and through the ring on the clew. Then down to the block at the "end" of the boom. It then goes toward the mast. At the mast end of the boom it then turns on a block to go up the luff of the sail to the "new" tack of the sail. It goes through that ring, then down to the mast base, then aft to the cockpit (passing through the organizers on the deck). At the cockpit it passes through a line stopper. You can use your cabin top winch to tighten it up.
Here is an image for you. I got it from google images "single line reefing". It should make sense. Then go on YouTube and look at a bunch of "How to Reef" videos.

http://www.harken.com/uploadedImages/Tech_Corner/Systems/msreef1.gif?n=6448

Hope this helps,

Scotty

edit: I just read Jim's reply. The post shows an internal block system (I have in mast furling - so I can't recall what you have). The idea is the same, but the rigging is a bit trickier. In any case, keep after it. When it is rigged correctly, you will find it to be a very efficient system. Judging by your question, it seems that you may be new to this size of boat? If so &#8230; congratulations of having a great boat!!! It will really help you to find someone local who is knowledgable to help you figure this out. Good luck to you.


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## glossa (Sep 16, 2012)

Jim McGee - Thanks for the tip; makes a lot more sense. Once I get these Christmas lights down, I will have to try re-rigging. 

One follow-up question. How do you put in the second reef, if the reefing lines are already in use. I've watched several 'how-to' videos with no luck.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

glossa said:


> ....
> 
> One follow-up question. How do you put in the second reef, if the reefing lines are already in use. I've watched several 'how-to' videos with no luck.


The reefing lines should be reeved through both reefs, one set for each. The clew reef attachment points need to be at different locations on the boom.

If everything is run aft, this does require extra hardware (stoppers/cleats/sheaves etc)


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## Bleemus (Oct 13, 2015)

I will say I don't mean to offend but you need to go sailing a lot more with people who know how to do these simple sailing tasks. Taking friends or family out for a sail without a clue how to rig a reef line on a 42 foot boat leads me to believe you would end up in the evening news before long. 

I can't say I have ever seen anyone rig a reef line like that and I used to be a sailing instructor. Get a competent sailor on your boat till you understand how everything works. Face palm. 


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## JimMcGee (Jun 23, 2005)

glossa said:


> Jim McGee - Thanks for the tip; makes a lot more sense. Once I get these Christmas lights down, I will have to try re-rigging.
> 
> One follow-up question. How do you put in the second reef, if the reefing lines are already in use. I've watched several 'how-to' videos with no luck.


Glossa, both of my boats have been set up with a single reef and I'll sail on just the jib when the wind is really up (Catalina 22 & Catalina 30).

I've never sailed the 42, I'd check with the Catalina 42 Owners web site for specific advice on your boat.

And check with the local ASA schools and see if you can take a one day class with an instructor on your boat (ASA Sailing Schools in Washington).

We did a weekend class before buying our Catalina 22 and it was a great experience. When we moved up to our Catalina 30 I was lucky that the friend who helped me bring the boat home was a retired ASA instructor (it was a six day trip). Every time I sail with him I learn something new. I'd imagine that taking a course on your boat with an ASA Instructor would be a similar experience, and would probably be more structured.

Best of luck with her,
Jim


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

Glossa, I'm also a big fan of sailing instruction. Whether it's through a local program, or a knowledgable friend, a bit of help in getting started can make sailing a whole lot more fun and safe. Best wishes to you.


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

Are you moving to Edmonds? if so, I might be able to help you rig this correctly, or at least better than what you have at the moment....

Marty


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## aloof (Dec 21, 2014)

JimMcGee said:


> Glossa, both of my boats have been set up with a single reef and I'll sail on just the jib when the wind is really up


Oh my! That is not a good idea at all.

A single reef rigged in the main is enough for casual local sailing. But please do not douse the main and sail on jib alone. It's simply wrong. A common amateur mistake. Bad balance, loss of maneuverability, instability, wild gybes, rig danger, etc. there is nothing to recommend such an unsightly thing. Maybe a storm jib alone to run off, but who is going to rig that?


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## JimMcGee (Jun 23, 2005)

aloof said:


> Oh my! That is not a good idea at all.
> 
> A single reef rigged in the main is enough for casual local sailing. But please do not douse the main and sail on jib alone. It's simply wrong. A common amateur mistake. Bad balance, loss of maneuverability, instability, wild gybes, rig danger, etc. there is nothing to recommend such an unsightly thing. Maybe a storm jib alone to run off, but who is going to rig that?


Aloof, not looking to start an argument but this is how I was taught by an ASA instructor; and we haven't experienced any of the horrors you described.

FWIW we are bay sailors. We're not out in big seas and are typically back at the dock if wind speeds are consistently gusting into the 30's.

As always YMMV...


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## Shockwave (Feb 4, 2014)

There is nothing wrong with sailing with just a jib. The rig won't come crashing down, jibes are easy, balance is fine... I've often sailed with just a jib.



aloof said:


> Oh my! That is not a good idea at all.
> 
> A single reef rigged in the main is enough for casual local sailing. But please do not douse the main and sail on jib alone. It's simply wrong. A common amateur mistake. Bad balance, loss of maneuverability, instability, wild gybes, rig danger, etc. there is nothing to recommend such an unsightly thing. Maybe a storm jib alone to run off, but who is going to rig that?


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## BryceGTX (Sep 7, 2011)

JimMcGee said:


> Aloof, not looking to start an argument but this is how I was taught by an ASA instructor; and we haven't experienced any of the horrors you described.
> 
> FWIW we are bay sailors. We're not out in big seas and are typically back at the dock if wind speeds are consistently gusting into the 30's.
> 
> As always YMMV...


Hello Jim.. I agree that running jib only is ok. I see it as a no brainier way to run in high wind in some cases. However, I agree with aloof that in high winds and big waves, you will quickly learn that running jib only is a bad idea.

As an example, take your boat out in 15-20 knot winds, say 5 foot seas beam sea with jib only. You will notice how the boat rolls in a beam sea.

Then raise the main, add a bit of jib for balance and notice the boat remains nearly stable without rolling. I pretty much guarantee, you will never again run jib only in high waves and strong wind.

I think perhaps this is what aloof was referring to.
Thanks for listening,
Bryce


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## svzephyr44 (Jun 26, 2000)

BryceGTX said:


> Hello Jim.. I agree that running jib only is ok. I see it as a no brainier way to run in high wind in some cases. However, I agree with aloof that in high winds and big waves, you will quickly learn that running jib only is a bad idea.
> Bryce


Running with a jib is a no brainier. We have done it about 10,000 NM in sustained winds up to 45 knots and seas to 25 feet. The Monitor wind vane (and for that matter the Raymarine autopilot) prefer the boat to be "pulled" by the jib rather than "pushed" by the main. Our rig is still intact. (Well no, we were tuning it yesterday in preparation of a trip from the BVI to Sint Maarten and a turnbuckle jammed. So we are down one shroud until we get it freed up.)

Upwind and reaching the balance is better with a main and jib combination but we have sailed extensively (10 days in a row) at about 55 degrees relative on a jib only (see below.)

The Catalina 42 rig is very robust. (I understand that all of the Catalina models have robust rigs.) How strong? Two weeks ago we were crossing the Gulf Stream - freak winds and waves - 40 gusting 45 - waves to 20 feet. (Fortunately from the Southeast.) The main had a single reef. When we tried to put in the third (yes third) reef the main jammed. What followed was about 12 hours of amazingly bad pounding of an out of control boat as the top third of the main self destructed on the spreaders. :devil And no, I was not letting anyone try to climb the mast in those conditions to cut the main free.

I would point out that the hull took quite a beating too. But the 42 stood up to it all. Perhaps this is why more Catalina 42's were built (over 1100) than any other 42 foot boat.

Fair winds and following seas


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## JimMcGee (Jun 23, 2005)

:laugher


BryceGTX said:


> Hello Jim.. I agree that running jib only is ok. I see it as a no brainier way to run in high wind in some cases. However, I agree with aloof that in high winds and big waves, you will quickly learn that running jib only is a bad idea.
> 
> As an example, take your boat out in 15-20 knot winds, say 5 foot seas beam sea with jib only. You will notice how the boat rolls in a beam sea.
> 
> ...


Bryce,
LOL, I should know better than to generalize on Sailnet!

Agree 100% that with a beam sea you want to the main up to stabilize the rolling motion.

But if I'm seeing "high winds and big waves" on Barnegat Bay I'm heading for the bar!

Jim


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## BryceGTX (Sep 7, 2011)

svzephyr44 said:


> The Monitor wind vane (and for that matter the Raymarine autopilot) prefer the boat to be "pulled" by the jib rather than "pushed" by the main.


The problem is not that the boat is pushed or pulled. The issue is that jib only creates a wind force on the rig that is way forward of the center of the boat. So it cannot provide a force to reduce rolling.

Main Only or jib and main creates a force that is almost directly against the rolling forces. So it ideally resists the rolling. I don't suggest that jib only is distructive to the rig. And that's where I agreed with Jim.

It is no brainier because it is difficult to get in trouble. No doubt if you are not concerned with comfort, you can run jib only forever. However, if you want to reduce rolling and increase comfort, you will always run the main.

Anyone that has experimented with this will agree with me.
Thanks,
Bryce


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## BryceGTX (Sep 7, 2011)

JimMcGee said:


> :laugher
> 
> Agree 100% that with a beam sea you want to the main up to stabilize the rolling motion.
> 
> Jim


Yes.. Absolutely.. I agree with you.
Thanks,
Bryce


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## glossa (Sep 16, 2012)

Hi Marty - We decided to put the move on hold, not because of the slip but because it lacks some important liveaboard amenities... 

Thanks for your offer. I think I can sort out the rigging once we take these Christmas lights down.

I really do need to get more experience, though. I find that I'm way more reluctant to go sailing with the larger boat.... partly for safety but also from general inertia. I've learned a lot from racing, but Bremerton doesn't have much of a racing community.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

I'm told single line reefing is not used as much as it was. That's where both lines (clew and Tack) are pulled from the cockpit. I think the reefing cringle should be used for the tack and the two (or three) clew reef lines run through the Boom to cabin top. One crew lowers the sail to the cringle and once its set by the crew at the mast re tensioned and then the clew is tensioned on a winch. I have Halyard and both reefs on one side of the cabin top using the same winch with rope clutches. Keeping everyone in the cockpit while reefing is the only advantage I see to single line reefing. Set the reef line on the clew starting just behind where the eye falls along the boom up thru the eye and back down to boom end and then forward for tensioning. This allows the clew to be pulled down and back equally and used as an outhaul for fine adjustment if you need to. Don't forget to gather the sail up so it not falling off the Boom onto the deck and to keep it under control. Set it up and practice on a light wind day, the day you need it you will be glad you practiced.


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## Bleemus (Oct 13, 2015)

Single line reefing is just that, a single line that does tack and clew. Dead end on the boom, up through the clew, down to boom end, through boom to gooseneck, up to tack, down to deck, back to cockpit. 

It generates a ton of friction. The only time I found them to work easily is when yo have blocks webbed to both tack and clew to reduce friction. 

I prefer to go forward to ease halyard pull tack down and hook on crinkle, hoist halyard tight then crank in the clew. Blocks webbed on clew reduces chafe immensely. The first thing to chafe through has always been the clew if it doesn't have a block. A bit unsightly with the block but function before fashion. 


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

glossa,

Understand. 

For reefing, a double line setup as mentioned by a couple of people may be easier than a single. THat is what I use. A cunningham hook for the tack, and another line for the clew.

marty


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## glossa (Sep 16, 2012)

Now that I've taken my Christmas lights down, I was able to compare my setup to the diagram in the manual.

It seems like my system is rove differently than the diagram. It seems like the control line from the cockpit goes all the way through the end of the boom and the line is too thick to run through the padeye located underneath the boom. I also don't see the block between # 6 & 7.


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## glossa (Sep 16, 2012)

I wonder if the PO was trying to do this? If found this here:

Sketch attached


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

I would think there would be too much friction from a single line going through all those eyes and blocks. It would be difficult to get the clew tension needed with this arrangement. When I was setting my Main up the PO said it was setup for single line reefing and it was not so apparently he was mistaken, I did have both reef points through the boom to cabin top that could be tensioned after dropping to the reef cringle at the mast. It takes a man on the mast to reef.

The draw back to cabin top lines is one man can't pull a reef, (without single line) that's what to single line was designed for. My Sail loft told me single line reefing is just not used much anymore, I didn't ask but assumed it was from the complexity of the system, I wouldn't want something jamming up in the middle of a reef when I need it the most.

I like my system, it's as simple as possible with cabin top winches.


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## Bleemus (Oct 13, 2015)

Whatever you decide I will say that something isn't right withe the fair lead on you B line. 


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

My Pearson 31-2 manual shows pretty much the same single single line reefing system diagram. Some PO along the way re-ran the forward section of the reefing line, as shown in red in the altered diagram. From the deck block the reefing line runs up to and over the bottom shieve in the boom end fitting, into the boom to the double block, then back forward under the top shieve in the boom end fitting, up to and through the tack grommet, then down to terminate at an eye on the mast by the gooseneck. I have also removed the block between 6 & 7 as it was unused. Maybe your boat has the same adjustment made? 

This single line reefing system as configured works just fine for me. I experience no friction that hinders the usual hand-over-hand trimming of the reefing line, although there is a lot of line to hand-over-hand, before you use the winch to bring the last few inches down to the boom.


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## Donna_F (Nov 7, 2005)

aloof said:


> Oh my! That is not a good idea at all.
> 
> A single reef rigged in the main is enough for casual local sailing. But please do not douse the main and sail on jib alone. It's simply wrong. A common amateur mistake. Bad balance, loss of maneuverability, instability, wild gybes, rig danger, etc. there is nothing to recommend such an unsightly thing. Maybe a storm jib alone to run off, but who is going to rig that?


We sometimes drop the main and sail with just the jib, especially when motor sailing. On our boat, it's what works. Different boats, different strokes.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

sailingfool said:


> My Pearson 31-2 manual shows pretty much the same single single line reefing system diagram. Some PO along the way re-ran the forward section of the reefing line, as shown in red in the altered diagram. From the deck block the reefing line runs up to and over the bottom shieve in the boom end fitting, into the boom to the double block, then back forward under the top shieve in the boom end fitting, up to and through the tack grommet, then down to terminate at an eye on the mast by the gooseneck. I have also removed the block between 6 & 7 as it was unused. Maybe your boat has the same adjustment made?
> 
> This single line reefing system as configured works just fine for me. I experience no friction that hinders the usual hand-over-hand trimming of the reefing line, although there is a lot of line to hand-over-hand, before you use the winch to bring the last few inches down to the boom.


That looks like it will work fine for one reef. A second would be too many lines in think.


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

albrazzi said:


> That looks like it will work fine for one reef. A second would be too many lines in think.


The Isomat boom endcaps provide sheaves for up to three reefing lines. We presently have two reefing lines installed, both work fine. Here is the link to the Isomat setup: Isomat AutoReef System The routing of the forward section of the reefing line can be simplified as I outlined above.

Relative to various threads related to installing single line reefing, I guess if a boat has the right Isomat boom endcaps, then converting to single line reefing may not involve much more than buying the shuttle blocks and a mess of line.


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## albrazzi (Oct 15, 2014)

sailingfool said:


> The Isomat boom endcaps provide sheaves for up to three reefing lines. We presently have two reefing lines installed, both work fine. Here is the link to the Isomat setup: Isomat AutoReef System This layout can be simplified as I outlined above.
> 
> Relative to various threads related to installing single line reefing, I guess if a boat has the right Isomat boom endcaps, then converting to single line reefing may not involve much more than buying the shuttle blocks and a mess of line.


I have the Isomat as well, thanks for the link; Right now I have the two reefs directly to a winch and a 2-1 I think on the outhaul. Just getting to know the Boat planning on some rework so thanks again on the link.


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## msmalter (Sep 30, 2000)

Don't be so hard on jib-alone. I've seen many experienced sailors do it. It depends on the boat. I do it on my Catalina 28 and in a good breeze the heel/hull shape push to windward offsets the lee helm balance of the jib-only nicely. I've heard many people say it can cause rig failure. How is it different than the huge forces involved in flying a huge spinnaker? If it is done to yield a comfortable heel, it is probably less force on the rig than racing the boat hard with max sails for max speed.

I agree that if you try jib only and have a huge lee helm, then it is not right for the boat.


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## JNeilson (Jul 22, 2004)

aloof said:


> Oh my! That is not a good idea at all.
> 
> A single reef rigged in the main is enough for casual local sailing. But please do not douse the main and sail on jib alone. It's simply wrong. A common amateur mistake. Bad balance, loss of maneuverability, instability, wild gybes, rig danger, etc. there is nothing to recommend such an unsightly thing. Maybe a storm jib alone to run off, but who is going to rig that?


I sail a 31' boat that only has reefing lines to the mast, so reefing requires someone going forward in rough conditions. As result I have sailed with just a 90% blade jib a couple of times instead.
The first time was cruising with family and we were hoisting the jib in 20 k plus wind. Before we could get sheeted in fully the jib filled and pinned us down with extreme lee helm. In that case we just let the sheet go and re-thought our options. 
The other time was racing. The wind had built to 50k, gusting to 57k as we rounded the leeward mark. With a racing crew we were able to douse the main and beat back a mile to the nearest shelter. It took half an hour and tacking was almost impossible but we made it. Lee helm was not a problem with a properly trimmed sail. Motoring into that wind and big seas would have been even worse!


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## Scotty C-M (Aug 14, 2013)

My Catalina 400 sails very well upwind under jib alone, even in confused seas. I'm sure the Catalina 42 would do so as well. Yes, putting up a small amount of main sail steadies the boat in heavier seas, and the boat dosn't stall as easily. That is offset by the ease of not bothering with the main. For a short passage I'm comfortable with just the jib. Anything over a few hours, and rigging the main is probably worth the effort. Going downwind with the jib alone works really well. Sometimes it's much easier than flying the main also. Upwind, the boat under main alone, in confused seas with wind over 20 knots, just dosen't power up enough for my taste. The boat really wants some jib up. Small jib, reefed main. In any case, I believe that it essential to be able to properly reef the main. I have personally rigged the reefing system for a Catalina 34 (my last boat) with a two line system, with two reef points. That makes a total of 4 lines. I led these to the cockpit. This was a really easy system to install and to use. Managing the lines was easy, just a matter of keeping things organized. The two line system gives great control for both the tack and the clew. I am sure that this can be rigged on the OP's Catalina 42 if he wishes to do so.


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## glossa (Sep 16, 2012)

So I tried re-rigging my reefing system like the one in this sketch, but it continues to bind up. The tack pulls down nicely, but securing the clew requires going up to the mast, freeing the line, then pulling it through the boom. Rinse and repeat several times. I'm wondering if the thickness of the line is an issue.... it's easily as thick as my jib sheets. I wonder if it's causing too much friction.

Sketch attached


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## blt2ski (May 5, 2005)

You should not need much more than a 3/8" line to reef your boat IMHO. If it is larger than that, yes, you could have a lot of friction that you can not over do. Even with 1/4" lines on my boat, there is some friction to overcome, and I am NOT oversized by any means. 

Marty


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## Mor22 (Jun 18, 2012)

For anyone looking for internal shuttle blocks:-

The shuttle blocks for the Isomat Auto reef system are extremely hard to find. The originals on our Pearson 31-2 were extremely worn and needed replacing. Rig rite no longer has them, despite being in their catalogue. To replace them we bought Sprenger dual cheek blocks from Marinetech in Germany. Catalogue #8146190-02. The cost for two of them was about 64 Euros. Add the same for shipping and $20 for customs fee. The good thing is the item is much better quality than the original which should reduce any friction. They can also be found on amazon.uk sold by yacht-steel.


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

glossa said:


> So I tried re-rigging my reefing system like the one in this sketch, but it continues to bind up. The tack pulls down nicely, but securing the clew requires going up to the mast, freeing the line, then pulling it through the boom. Rinse and repeat several times. I'm wondering if the thickness of the line is an issue.... it's easily as thick as my jib sheets. I wonder if it's causing too much friction.
> 
> Sketch attached


If still an open issue, one thing I do is run the reefing lines at the tacks so when reefing is in progress, the loose cloth falls away from the reefing line, removing it as a source of friction.

The first picture attached shows the tack with reef 1 in place. The second picture shows how the reefing line runs to reef tack 2.

Each reefing line passes thru the tack grommet on the same side as its gooseneck fitting, thru the tack grommet, back in front of the luff and then directly down to its mast termination point. I find when putting in a reef that the luff cloth usually falls to the side and the only friction in the single line reefing process is that normally seen with the typical clew reef as the clew gets close to the boom...


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## sailingfool (Apr 17, 2000)

In case is may be of interest to the OP or others, I did a video review of our single-line reefing system:





I would be interested in knowing how this situation has worked out for the OP.


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## IStream (Dec 15, 2013)

Mor22 said:


> For anyone looking for internal shuttle blocks:-
> 
> The shuttle blocks for the Isomat Auto reef system are extremely hard to find. The originals on our Pearson 31-2 were extremely worn and needed replacing. Rig rite no longer has them, despite being in their catalogue. To replace them we bought Sprenger dual cheek blocks from Marinetech in Germany. Catalogue #8146190-02. The cost for two of them was about 64 Euros. Add the same for shipping and $20 for customs fee. The good thing is the item is much better quality than the original which should reduce any friction. They can also be found on amazon.uk sold by yacht-steel.


FYI, this Harken deck organizer works well too.

Harken


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