# Teak Deck Replacement with Nonskid



## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Today I started the BIG job of replacing my teak decks on my 1981 Cheoy Lee ketch. I just did a small section of the cockpit near my port jibsheet winch. I'm using this post as a guide. It took four hours from getting my tools out until the area is mostly clean.

The first step was removing the winch and two cleats from on top of the deck.









Here's the deck before removing the deck hardware.









They're off now. Then it was on to the wrecking bar and mallet to pry up the old teak. The screw heads stayed behind, so I used a flat tip screwdriver and vice grip pliers remove all the screws.

Next I scraped off the black bedding compound that held the teak in place. Most of it came up easily using a Fein Multimaster scraper tool.









Next I used acetone and a rag to remove the residual bedding compound. I wore nitrile gloves, but the acetone ate through them so tomorrow I'll be getting better chemical protective gloves. I switched to using a scotchbrite green scrubber with acetone and that helped the gunk come up quicker.

At the end I wiped down the surface and drilled out the hardware mounting holes, then reamed them out using a dremel tool. I'll rebed all the hardware later using this guide.









Now the deck is clear and is ready for the individual screw holes to be reamed and the holes to be filled with epoxy.

We have guests coming August 10 so my goal is to have the decks done by then. I guess I need to get to work!


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

Wow, that's going to be a job! And I really hate to see the teak decks go; I love that look. But I can understand why you're getting rid of them.

So, what are you doing with all the teak?


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

I doubt very much of the decking came up in reusable pieces.

It's a daunting job, looks like you got off to a good start. SNer jrd22 did the same on his new-to-him boat, seems a good way to put that particular worry to rest.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

I got a few long pieces up, but the underside had all the black sticky sealant so it's going in the marina dumpster.


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## mad_machine (Dec 16, 2012)

the teak does not look that bad... just tired of cleaning and oiling it?


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

N8, I'd bet some resourceful people would love that wood. Teak is expensive, and a trip through a properly set-up bandsaw would take off the sealant and probably still leave most of the wood. If you weren't on the other side of the country from me, I'd be tempted t make a deal. I have several projects that could benefit from long pieces.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

The decks have worn thin with screwheads showing through and getting caught on shoes and toes. The nonskid properties get negated when the decks become a trip hazard.


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## arf145 (Jul 25, 2007)

And I suspect the OP was concerned about potential leaks through all those screw holes.


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## jrd22 (Nov 14, 2000)

Goodonya for starting this daunting task! Never having to worry about a rotten core, and the tremendous job/expense that entails, makes the work removing the teak and glassing over seem minor (when you're done with it ).


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Yesterday my wife and I removed more deck hardware and teak. Now we have both sides of the cockpit cleared. Today we're having friends come over and they'll help remove the teak from the seats in the cockpit. Here's my first big challenge. With the teak removed there will be a lip and I'll need to decide if I'll remove that edge and fair it, or fill the space previously occupied by the teak.

Here are a few pictures from yesterday's hard work.









THe holes are all drilled out, vacuumed and filled. Some of the screw holes just kept sucking the epoxy. It's not dripping inside the cabin so there must have been a gap in the hull between the gel coat and the fiberglass, especially on the starboard side outboard.









The starboard side prepped. To remove the old sealant I used a paint scraper attachment with my drill to expedite the process.









Durabak nonskid coating samples. Top to bottom the colors are Tan, Creme and Sand. We're planning on using Sand because it compliments the wood trim the best. The nonskid is UV protected polyurethane so I can use the same primer that I'll use for the edges


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Got most of the cockpit teak and hardware removed today. Tomorrow I'll be cleaning up all the stuff we removed today.









Transom shot









Great help today from Jaime, Natalie and Eric! Tomorrow I hope to fill a lot of new screw holes.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Got the teak all off the cockpit and lots of screw holes filled with epoxy. Now it's just what to do with the quarterdeck area. The deck feels solid, but my moisture meter says it's wet. I'm letting it dry out and will see if the wood still stays solid.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

Nice work!


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Thanks. I'm making a trip to WestMarine to get some more epoxy and fairing filler. Then I'll be working on the deck above the transom and quarterdeck. My next big issue will be working with the coaming that's left around the cockpit from where I removed the teak. I need to make a decision of whether to lay balsa and epoxy it down and glass over, or to cut the coaming down and fair smooth. It looks like I may need to get an angle grinder.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

You know, without pics this really isn't that great of a thread.


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## OldCreek (Oct 21, 2011)

jimgo said:


> You know, without pics this really isn't that great of a thread.


x2!


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

OK, more pictures and a status update.









My dock neighbor, Jay from JAYGAR is on the right helping scrape off the sticky tar stuff, while I'm on the left with my head down out of the frame removing bedding compound. So far I've used three different methods to remove the sticky stuff and the easiest one was using a paint or varnish scraper. The other less successful methods were using a Scotchbright green scrubbing pad with acetone and using a paint removal wheel.









This is a repost of a picture of the cockpit taken while standing on my dockbox showing how white and nice the cockpit looks after scraping the sticky teak bedding compound off and cleaning the area with acetone.









Here is my next problem. After removing the teak there's a half inch lip or coaming in the cockpit that I need to deal with. My first instinct is to cut it off with my Fein multimaster or a sawzall and then smooth it and fair with epoxy fairing compound, but before I make the fist cut I want to see if anyone out there in sailnet land has experience with this.


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## OldCreek (Oct 21, 2011)

How about keeping the lip and using it to help retain some cushions? Perhaps, you can file some drainage slots in. Or, keep some strategically placed lips to do the same and grind off the rest...


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

Yeah, I was wondering why you'd get rid of that lip, too. I like the idea of using it to hold the cushions in place.


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## deniseO30 (Nov 27, 2006)

You can scupper the lip. (notch it) so water drains and you will have a lip for cushions too!


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

We already have some cushions and they don't reach all the way out to the edge. After sitting in the cockpit for a few minutes that lip starts to cut off circulation to my feet so the lip's coming off. Now I have to figure out if it's easier to use the Fein Multimaster or a grinder.

Blog post about the beginning of the project At Aboard Astraea


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## obelisk (May 23, 2008)

I did this same project in 2008 on my Skye 51, replacing my teak with Treadmaster--best money I have put into the boat! In deciding between the colors, know that the sand color I used has made the boat worlds more comfortable in the summer as it has dropped the temperature below decks significantly. Good work tackling it yourself! 

Does the lip you are looking to get rid of come right up to the vertical surface of the cockpit? It might be difficult to get a smooth rollover using epoxy and filler, LOTS of sanding at a minimum. I have never tried it but maybe you could use a router and rollover bit if you faired with something soft like West 410 filler but that would be prone to chipping with every day wear and tear.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Obelisk:
The lip does go right up to the edge of the cockpit. I painted that area about a year ago when I replaced the windows. I'm prepared to do a bit of touch up paint around there and see how nicely I can smooth the deck paint in to the side paint, but that's a discussion for a later post when I'm closer to it. I've decided to remove more hardware and the reset of the deck before going in to the lip removal and fairing phase.

Today I removed all the chainplate covers:









Please ignore the drips on the toerail in the background. My varnishing skills are way better than that, it's just how the boat came.

All the covers for the chain plates have been removed and labeled. It took about two hours to unscrew all the plates, then loosen the turnbuckle and lubricate the turnbuckle with lanolin, an antisieze compound.









The tools I used are shown in the pictures, a wrench, electric and manual screwdriver and some pliers.

So here's the project plan as it stands now:
1) Remove the rest of the teak deck mounted hardware
Problem areas are the anchor windlass and bow pulpit and stanchions. They're through bolted, big, heavy or cumbersome so I'll need help with removing them. It's possibly going to get dirty in the cabin when removing this hardware because of the big holes.
Goal Date: Friday, likely finish date Saturday morning
2) Remove teak decks: Same process as before with mallet and hammer
Goal Date: Sunday, I'll have weekend help
3) Remove screws and clean up deck with scrapers and acetone
Goal Date: May 13, 2013 
4) Prep Holes
Goal Date: May 15, 2013
5) Fill holes
Goal Date: May 22, 2013

Boy it's going to take a while. Guess I'll need to buy some extra beer and brats and call in the reinforcements.


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## obelisk (May 23, 2008)

these pics look all too familiar! good luck getting everything off. just a note about getting the black goo off that remains after the teak is removed--i used a sharp, broad chisel to scrape the majority of the gunk off then used MEK, which worked way better for me than acetone. of course, it causes cancer 3 times as fast, so wear gloves...


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## Ritchard (Aug 15, 2011)

Am I to understand from the pic above that your chainplate is held in place with what appears to be wood screws?


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Ritchard,
The chiainplate was not held in with wood screws, that's just the cover to keep water out of the chainplate. It's not load bearing at all.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

I tried removing the deck fill for the water tanks, but it's seized up. While holding it with a wrench I started to crush the tube. I need to use some PB Blaster penetrating fluid to break the nut free. If that doesn't work I'm going to cut the fittings off and replace them.









Top view of the water deck fill

My wife and I removed the screws and nuts for the stanchion bases and the jib lead track.


















Then she got down to pulling up the teak.









And I got to play on the dock with my 11 month old son.









Yesterday we got all the teak up off the port side deck to the front of the cabintop. All the screws are out, the deck was cleaned of the old sealant, holes drilled and countersunk. We didn't do the jiblead track and stanchion holes yet. That will have to wait until later today or tomorrow.
Today we're taking a break for Mother's Day and going up to the restaurant for brunch.


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## Minnesail (Feb 19, 2013)

What a cute boy! Wish your wife happy Mothers Day.


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## jrd22 (Nov 14, 2000)

Wow, do those pics bring back memories (nightmares?). Good luck with the project, you'll be justifiably proud when finished, and you'll never have to worry about a wet, rotten core.

Our deck replacement ordeal:


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## Ritchard (Aug 15, 2011)

n8kraft said:


> Ritchard,
> The chiainplate was not held in with wood screws, that's just the cover to keep water out of the chainplate. It's not load bearing at all.


Of course, how stupid of me. I just removed mine similarly to do some painting. Brain fahrt.

OMG what a huge job you're doing. This may not apply to your boat, but based on my experience over this last winter I have decided that bargain boats that just need a little TLC are often not a bargain at all.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

The job continues. I had to go out of town for work, but I'm back on the boat now.










Next problem is the chainplates come through the deck and are built up about a half inch with some epoxy and fiberglass so it doesn't collect water flush from the deck.

I'm trying to figure out how to clean up the edges and make it look nice and then seal it up. Right now my plan is to fill and fair, prime and paint, then seal around the chainplate with 3M 4000. Any other ideas how to make this look like a quality job? I don't want to cut it flush to the deck because of the added likelyhood of water intrusion.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

I think I'd consider cutting it flush, leaving an 1/8" gap around the whole thing, then worry about how to re-seal it. I'd probably go with either Butyl or the UV version of 4200. You want something that can handle a good bit of movement.


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

I would remove the turnbuckle and then build it up 1/2" with some G10 with a slot for the chainplate. Size the G10 to the size of the cover plate at the top and wider at the bottom. Epoxy it in place. Add sealant around the slot and compress it with the cover plate. This will prevent water from pooling at the chainplate base. Like the pics below.

Butyl would be my sealant choice.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

mitiempo: I like it. I usually walk around the marina looking for the way things were done on other boats, but your pictures show the whole process. Why did you reccomend the G10 epoxy? I've been using Westsystem for everything else and have never worked with G10 before.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

n8kraft said:


> mitiempo: I like it. I usually walk around the marina looking for the way things were done on other boats, but your pictures show the whole process. Why did you reccomend the G10 epoxy? I've been using Westsystem for everything else and have never worked with G10 before.


G10 FR4 Sheets, Panels & Boards | Cross Nail Laminates

It's pre fabbed f/g 'panel'. Also available at McMaster-Carr, I think...


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Well, the project continues. I've been really busy. Here's the big bad update on the decks. I'll start with a link to the youtube video walkaround:





All the teak is off and the toe rail is almost ready to varnish. I'm going to put 6 coats of Epiphanes varnish on the toe rail. Then I can mask off the bottom and sand it prior to sealing the seam around the toe rail with 3M 4000. I've got to figure out how much I need. I'm thinking I'll go through 4 tubes on the inside and 2 tubes on the outside of each rail, so that's 12 tubes, or a case.

After everything is smooth and I think I'm ready to prime I'll drill holes and test fit the deck hardware. I want all the hardware can go back in the same place it came from and I'm not guesstimating where it came from and things are lopsided on deck. At this point I'll purchase new bolts, washers and nuts to replace the old bronze or stainless hardware that's now too long.

Next I'll prime the deck with about a gallon of Pre-Kote, then paint around the edges of everything with white Interlux Brightsides to match the cabintop, then roll the Durabak.

Finally I'll reinstall all the hardware, get the rig tuned and go sailing! I've still got about a month's worth of work to do!


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## JulieMor (Sep 5, 2011)

WOW! Now I understand the $70K price tag the owner of a 44 footer paid for new teak decks.

Impressive work! Looks like you'll be buying your dockmates a lot of beers. 

I think I need to share this with the SO so those boats we've looked with teak decks won't be so tempting. 

Great job n8!


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## miatapaul (Dec 15, 2006)

n8kraft said:


> Well, the project continues. I've been really busy. Here's the big bad update on the decks. I'll start with a link to the youtube video walkaround:
> YouTube
> 
> All the teak is off and the toe rail is almost ready to varnish. I'm going to put 6 coats of Epiphanes varnish on the toe rail. Then I can mask off the bottom and sand it prior to sealing the seam around the toe rail with 3M 4000. I've got to figure out how much I need. I'm thinking I'll go through 4 tubes on the inside and 2 tubes on the outside of each rail, so that's 12 tubes, or a case.
> ...


video shows up as private?


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## StormBay (Sep 30, 2010)

Also cant see the video..

I feel for you n8kraft, we just got done with essentially the same project. 
part 1 S/V Moitessier...: Decked Out
part 2 S/V Moitessier...: Awl or Nothing...
It took forever and all I can say is that Im glad I don't have to do it ever again. It looks like you guys are making good progress so far and Im looking forward to seeing the finished product


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Does the video work now?


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## StormBay (Sep 30, 2010)

Yup it works now.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

StormBay: I've been to your part 1 page before, but this was my first time seeing the second. Good info on Perfection vs AwlGrip. I have AwlGrip left over from a previous project on my mast, but not enough to do the whole deck :-/ I already have a lot of a gallon of Brightside that I used to paint the sides of the cabintop. Based on your experience w/ the paint peeling up I'll probably end up going with AwlGrip and make the project a bit more expensive, but more durable.

Thanks!


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## StormBay (Sep 30, 2010)

I dont think you will regret using AwlGrip if thats the route you end up taking. It really is a quality product, and with a little practice its not as hard to work with as its reputation would lead you to believe.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

Astraea deck update 26SEP13 - YouTube

Getting ready to clean and roll primer, paint and nonskid!


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

Wow, you must be excited! She's coming along nicely. Can't wait to see the final result!


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

S/V Astraea with Durabak beige nonskid - YouTube

Astraea finally has a new look. After two coats of Interlux Prekote primer and two coats of Interlux Brightside paint. We did one coat each day. The primer covered the entire deck and the paint went down just around the deck edges. In between coats we sanded with 220 grit and cleaned up with Interlux 333 brushing liquid.
We rolled most of the area and only brushed in the areas behind hardware and corners. We didn't roll and tip because the results from just rolling were really good, there were very few bubbles. While working on the deck preparation and painting we wore clean socks to keep dirt off the decks.
The day after our last coat of paint we taped the area around the deck edges and hardware we didn't want nonskid to go. It took us about 8 man hours to tape the entire deck. We made all the edges the same width of a roll of blue 3M painters tape. The straight edges were easy to tape, just put the tape against the edge and roll the tape. Natalie used a compass to draw some easy curves, but it didn't work for everything. She got creative and used kitchen tongs holding a pencil for curves around the deck house and hatches where a compass didn't work. We over taped and traced the width of a roll of tape then cut away the excess using an exacto knife and peeled up the tape.

We sanded the deck with 100 grit sandpaper and cleaned up the deck twice with rags wetted with Industrial Maintenance Coating Thinner. The directions for the Durabak nonskid calls for Xylene, but Xylene isn't available in California. Industrial Maintenance Coating Thinner is OK to use in place of Xylene.
Finally we were ready roll the nonskid! I opened the first can and mixed it up with our electric drill and a paint mixer and poured it in to a paint pan. I did some test rolling on cardboard to get used to rolling the textured material before rolling on the boat. It took about an hour and a half to cover the decks. I took a break and then rolled the second coat.
That night after the Durabak dried for four hours we could walk on the nonskid and peel up the tape from the edges before it fully cured. The tape came up easily if the Durabak wasn't too thick. We cleaned up areas where the tape tore with an exact knife. We had some issues with the tape pulling up the white paint underneath where it hadn't dried completely because we applied the paint too thick. We will touch up those areas later when we finish priming and painting the cockpit locker covers.
We're so excited that this project is almost finished! It's been a long six months&#8230;now on to re-mounting all the hardware.


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## chucklesR (Sep 17, 2007)

Wonderful project and accomplishment.


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

I love the look of the teak deck, and it's a shame to see it go. That being said, you've done her proud - she looks really great! She looks like a "cleaned up" and more modern boat.


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## n8kraft (Dec 31, 2009)

If only I were rich then I could have put down new teak. Still have more hardware to bed and some metal to cut away from the bow pulpit to make it mate correctly. We're working inside the boat to purge and organize things we haven't touched in forever in anticipation of the next underway!


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## Quinn99 (Oct 27, 2013)

Great job! I am hoping to use nonskid after I finish a re-core on my deck. It looks like it worked well!


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