# Making Companionway Doors



## ajohns27 (Dec 20, 2004)

I am about to make some Teak companionway doors to replace my boards. And I would like to make them so that I can exchange the lexan panels for screens since I don't have a/c. I was wondering if anyone had made their own set of them and had any pointers in general, but most specifically on how to make the windows interchangeable while not able to leak?
Thanks
Andy


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## sailingdog (Mar 19, 2006)

The problem I see with that, is that most of the ways to make the lexan windows leak proof require installing them from the outside... and that means that a bad buy can uninstall them too... 

The simplest way would be to have a rabbeted opening that the Lexan or Screen fits into, that has a groove and rubber seal in it... When the Lexan is in, the rabbet and rubber seal keep water out—but this works best if the lexan is installed from the exterior side...


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

We have an acrylic dropboard for normal security, but I made a simple plywood facsimile, made some substantial cutouts in it and applied screening to it. 

We simply choose which one to use based on the conditions we're in. If you have multiple drop boards you might choose to make one of them with screens and another with a lens and use them interchangeably as required.


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## kaluvic (Jan 14, 2009)

I agree with Faster...I haven’t done it yet but that’s my plan as well.


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## JohnRPollard (Mar 26, 2007)

I've contemplated this upgrade too. I haven't got around to it yet, but have pretty much decided that when I do, I will not have the doors "replace" the boards.

Instead, I will mount the new doors just aft of the track for the boards. That way, we would use the doors for the most part while aboard, but still be able to drop the boards in place for more security (against weather, theft, etc).

I plan to build the doors with the screens permanently affixed, but have them somewhat recessed in a rabbet (as SD described) so that the acrylic windows (with gasket) can be set in place over them as needed. They'll be held in place by little wooden twisty toggle thingies. 

Here is one vendor of companionway screens, etc, that might give you some ideas:

Glebe Creek Screenworks


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## CLucas (Feb 10, 2007)

Faster said:


> We have an acrylic dropboard for normal security, but I made a simple plywood facsimile, made some substantial cutouts in it and applied screening to it.
> 
> We simply choose which one to use based on the conditions we're in. If you have multiple drop boards you might choose to make one of them with screens and another with a lens and use them interchangeably as required.


My usual upper board is smoked acrylic also. We wanted some additional ventilation for overnights and this winter I made exactly what you're describing using 1/2" birch plywood ($10), some Pet-Safe screening (~$4) and scrap moulding. I sealed the edges with epoxy and finished with Cetol. Didn't go for teak to keep the cost down, especially since I'm not going to be using it all the time. I'm pleased with the results and the price was right 










*When* (not if...) the screen gets $#&@'d, I can just pop off the trim moulding and staple in another panel.


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

Same as ours only I used reg plywood and painted it instead. Works great, doesn't take a lot of space (but I have a single smallish drop board similar to yours shown)


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## CLucas (Feb 10, 2007)

JohnRPollard said:


> ...
> Here is one vendor of companionway screens, etc, that might give you some ideas:
> 
> Glebe Creek Screenworks


Another vendor (or "inspiration piece")... Zarcor. These look nice, BUT... they'll set you back over $800 with screens.


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## mgmhead (Jan 14, 2007)

My boat has three drop boards and a lock to secure the boat when vacant. When we are aboard the three boards are stowed and we have a single piece (similar to Faster's) which is a frame with screen. This frame has quarter-round trim on the inside into which a smoke colored Lexan panel fits, secured with four butterfly toggles. For privacy I have had a white panel made as well.

Works great, keeps out insects, and provides shelter or privacy when needed.


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## WesterlyPageant (Aug 29, 2008)

I have some great pictures on my laptop, which is at home I’ll try to upload them and post a link. In the mean time I’ll try to describe a set up I saw at the Seattle boat show. 

They had companionway doors (barn style) that had glass on the outside and screens inside. There was trim all the way around but when you’d look at the top end of the door, there was a handle that when pulled up was attached to the glass. This looked like just a piece of trim. It sat in a channel, just like your hatch boards would. 

Another description is they built the frames of each door out is say ½ stock. Then they placed screens on the inside of that and then finished the inside with trim. The outside had finish trim placed over the face frames but then overlapped the open area for the glass a ½” or so. There would be a small groove routed into the frame for the glass to slide in from the top. 

Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words. 

There was also a thin groove on the inside of the overhead slider rails that had a screen too. This retracted into the cabin top. You can open the slider, but then close a screen. 

It was a really nice looking set up.


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## WesterlyPageant (Aug 29, 2008)

here you go, I was really impressed by this. I hope it helps. 








you can see more here:
Flickr: endeavor_64's Photostream


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## Omatako (Sep 14, 2003)

We're all thinking of the same stuff - that's interesting.

I'm busy with mine as well. We also have three boards that get stowed when we're aboard. In our storm experience, they leaked like a holed bucket and made down below as dark as heck.

So I have decided to have a single piece toughened glass panel made in one piece to slot in when we need waterproof weather protection. Then the second set will be a stainless steel grate that is the same shape that goes in when we're on board and need security with ventilation.

The original boards will be used when we leave the boat and need just security.

The other thing that I have been thinking of is a central locking mechanism (automotive) that activates with a remote control. Then the locking is done from inside by remote control on the outside and no locks exist to be forced. The locking system can actually be made really strong without being unsightly.

"What happens when the batteries die and your central locking system fails?" you say. Well I'll put a pull cable from the locking mechanism to a locker on deck that is secured with a padlock. I reckon a thief who gets on board and sees a companionway with no locks at all on it will go off to find an easier target. I'm reasonably confident that he won't break open every locker on deck in the hope of finding a release. Maybe that's naive.


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## OS2Dude (Aug 29, 2011)

I made a set of companionway doors from Red Oak that have replaceable panels. I rabbeted the sills and inserted an aluminum channel. The channel is .25" deep, and at the bottom I drilled some weep holes to allow any water to drain. The opening has a 1.5" batten that covers it and also is a mounting place for the hasp. It has been weather tight in some pretty good rain storms. The bottom has a bolt to lock it in place and the top is braced by a 1" channel so the doors can not be easily forced. The sliding cabin roof has a piece of oak attached to prevent the channel and panels from being raised when it is closed and locked. 

I have pictures and a short article at ODAYOWNERS . COM under OWNER MODS / ODAY 23


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## drsutton (Aug 6, 2013)

has anyone tried fabricating companionway doors with louvered shutters?


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

I built a set of hinged (lift off) doors years ago on our Viking 28, solid teak with louvres but not 'shutters' in the sense that they moved. It was a lot of work but looked great.. no pictures, unfortunately, long before digital 

I sawed the louvre slats out of lumber, planed/sanded, notched the side pieces to accept them.. as far as I know they are still OK nearly 25 years on.


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## Capt Len (Oct 9, 2011)

Louvres can be more easily made by dadoing the sides. cut a strip to tight fit the rabbit and cut into spacer bits. Rabit the ends of the plank to be slats and rip strips at same angle as spacer bits.Needs fou bits cut at 90 to start and finish filling the opening. Plan the number and size of bits and assemble with a dab of slow glue. Clamp mortice /tenons to finish. After 35 years, I still have x students come aboard and say"Wow, I helped make those."


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## drsutton (Aug 6, 2013)

I'm considering converting my companionway boards to doors. Has anyone done this?


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

drsutton said:


> I'm considering converting my companionway boards to doors. Has anyone done this?


That's what my post above (#15) was about.. drop boards to hinged louvred doors.


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

I have both plus some plexi ones. The best addition was a snap on Sunbrella cover that drapes down from the sliding companion way hatch cover. For the poster who was concerned about the UV degrading his newly varnished doors, this may be the ticket.


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## drsutton (Aug 6, 2013)

My thoughts about companionway doors made from drop boards is very straightforward. Glue up the boards, seperate by cutting down the center, attach hinges and mound. Since the drop boards already fit the opening, no other cuts need to be made. 
Bill


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## Faster (Sep 13, 2005)

drsutton said:


> My thoughts about companionway doors made from drop boards is very straightforward. Glue up the boards, seperate by cutting down the center, attach hinges and mound. Since the drop boards already fit the opening, no other cuts need to be made.
> Bill


You'll need to cut off the aft edge of the companionway frame so the new doors are free to swing out. You can't swing the doors in and out of the current existing drop board slots. Easily done with a router as long as you've clearance for the base.. a router bit in a drywall trimmer can do the job in tighter spaces.

Gluing the current boards together and cutting them will work, but properly framed doors will look a lot better. If you do glue and cut I'd suggest using splines or biscuits in the joints to beef them up.. but I'm afraid it wouldn't look all that great... (JMO)


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## jimgo (Sep 12, 2011)

I had though about gluing and cutting since my current drop boards had already been fastened together by the PO. But I soon realized, much like Ron's post, that it's not that simple unless you're going to get rid of the trim piece that holds the drop boards in place. That's an option, but it will preclude you from using drop boards again. For some people, that may not be a problem. But if you want (or have plans) to sail in bigger water, the ability to add a drop board to keep water from entering the cabin can be handy. I've seen some doors, like the ones Zarcor makes, that fit into the current slot. Unfortunately, those inherently narrow the companionway a bit because of the hinges. As Ron suggested, you could trim down the wooden frame, but then you're decreasing the surface area that supports the drop boards, which I think would weaken the companionway. Not that it's a structural piece - it would just make it easier for someone to kick in the doors.


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## Brewgyver (Dec 31, 2011)

I have nice teak-framed vision doors on lift-off hinges. The hinges are much lighter than the ones Zacor uses, but I like the setup just the way it is. I only hang them in the slip (might while on the hook, but haven't done much of that yet, still a noob ), for the day or several while I'm more or less on the boat. When I head home 40 miles (still have to work), I drop the boards and lock it up. When I bought the boat, the boards and hatch didn't even have a hasp, and I didn't feel the need to lock it until I spen a chunk of change on a Raymarine e7. Fortunately, there isn't much of a theft problem at my marina. The dock gates are locked, and even though a lot of people will hold a gate open for you if you look like you're going through, you don't hear about any real security issues. Part of that might be the fair number of liveaboards.


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## Capt Len (Oct 9, 2011)

Never had drop boards but how about this solution. Attach with piano hinge the new doors (maybe cut up drop boards) to hardwood baton that fits snug in the old drop board slot. Pre drill access holes in hinge to screw to backside of slot. Add drip bottom and clasp to doors Nothing is altered permanently and offers the chance to make it out of 5 bucks of ply wood to see if you like it.


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## mitiempo (Sep 19, 2008)

aeventyr60 said:


> The best addition was a snap on Sunbrella cover that drapes down from the sliding companion way hatch cover. For the poster who was concerned about the UV degrading his newly varnished doors, this may be the ticket.


I agree. I also have a Sunbrella cover that snaps onto the top of the aft end of the slider. It has a light batten sewn in at the bottom for weight. As I live aboard it makes it easy to open or close for ventilation or when leaving the boat. Also I can roll it up to whatever height I like and I use a small plastic spring clamp to keep it there. Often in the winter I will leave the bottom board (I have 2) in and almost close the gap with the flap. Allows for as much or as little ventilation as I want and makes it easy to come and go. When I want it totally open I just flip the whole thing onto the sliding part of the hatch.


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## aeventyr60 (Jun 29, 2011)

mitiempo said:


> I agree. I also have a Sunbrella cover that snaps onto the top of the aft end of the slider. It has a light batten sewn in at the bottom for weight. As I live aboard it makes it easy to open or close for ventilation or when leaving the boat. Also I can roll it up to whatever height I like and I use a small plastic spring clamp to keep it there. Often in the winter I will leave the bottom board (I have 2) in and almost close the gap with the flap. Allows for as much or as little ventilation as I want and makes it easy to come and go. When I want it totally open I just flip the whole thing onto the sliding part of the hatch.


All good! I added a few sinkers (weights) to the bottom seam. Also a few snaps along the bottom holds it securely in place and adds up to a real tight fit. Usually the first board is all I need. We made a second flap out of mosquito netting for when the bugs get bad and for ventilation in the tropics.
I guess we could add an eisenglass window too...


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## drsutton (Aug 6, 2013)

Just finished these about a month ago.. What a relief to not chase down companion boards.


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## capecodda (Oct 6, 2009)

mitiempo said:


> I agree. I also have a Sunbrella cover that snaps onto the top of the aft end of the slider. It has a light batten sewn in at the bottom for weight. As I live aboard it makes it easy to open or close for ventilation or when leaving the boat. Also I can roll it up to whatever height I like and I use a small plastic spring clamp to keep it there. Often in the winter I will leave the bottom board (I have 2) in and almost close the gap with the flap. Allows for as much or as little ventilation as I want and makes it easy to come and go. When I want it totally open I just flip the whole thing onto the sliding part of the hatch.


We have something similar. We built a canvas door with a zipper down the middle. The sides are wood battens that fit in the board slots on either side. We hold them in place with slide bolts on top, and a pin on the bottom. We have 2 versions, canvas and flexible screening for ventilation. We use this at anchor when on board. The other nice thing about this setup is it takes up little room when stowed, as you can roll it up.

This in no way solves the offshore, keeping the water out issue, or security on a dock, but we've got hatch boards for that.


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## deltaten (Oct 10, 2012)

I'm luvvin mine!
made em from 1/2" HDPE matl. sheet, saorta red woodish brown....dark teak!  cutt panel to fit HUGE (36" [email protected] to, [email protected] bott) opening. reduced by 3" on each side, to slide in DB slot. doubled w/rips of same to look like framed doors. left laps as needed. all glued up with g-flex (thick, still oozes!)
still sourcing drop hinges at decent price...see dog s[email protected]$29.95 PR? I think not! getting used to them of later. might not add the lift offs


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